Drawings of sailing ships. Sailing ships, model drawings free download

Frigate Scarlet Sails

Step-by-step instruction

manufacturing

CHINESE JUNK

CHINESE JUNK
Now we have reached the most important part of the site.
I will give you approximate dimensions,
since I made the ship by eye and didn’t pay much attention to the dimensions. I didn’t write them down exactly, but there are some. I will not torment you with nautical terms because I myself am not good at them, but I will write in a generally accessible language. Well, you know the basic terms. Such as deck, mast, yard, keel. This is where we will begin our work with the keel. But first we will do some preparatory work. We take a sheet of veneer, place it on some kind of plywood or board, and coat it well with glue. We secure it with buttons so that the sheet does not curl when drying. Let's start with the keel, length 45 cm
the height of the front part is 12 cm, the back part is 8 cm. If the height dimensions are larger than anything terrible, you can always cut off the excess. After cutting out the keel, we sand it a little. We will remove the gloss, and if there is a textured coating, we will remove it completely.
Spread glue on one side and leave to dry. You can spread from two, as you prefer. While everything is drying, we mark the ribs of the ship. We make one blank template. The width of the rib is 16 cm, the height is 6 cm. The depth of the slot for inserting the keel is 1.5 - 2 cm. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the veneered keel. Next we proceed to veneering the keel. Who doesn't know how it's done
I'm telling you. Veneer mode on strips slightly larger than the width of the keel. We turn on the iron at full power so that the veneer does not burn during veneering. We place the veneer on the keel and smooth it with an iron until it is completely glued. We cut off the excess veneer and sand it with sandpaper packed onto a block.
After we have plywooded the keel, we will make the deck and will make the rest of the ribs of the ship. Deck length 45 cm, width 16 cm. We measure 15 cm on one side, this will be the beginning of the rounding of the bow. From the back we measure 11 cm, this will also be the beginning of the rounding. The width of the rear part of the deck is 4.5 cm. Photo 5 shows the deck. Now we're starting to have trouble with the rest of the ribs. Since our keel is curved with inside then the height of the ribs will naturally change in relation to the inside of the keel to the deck. I will try to explain how best to do this. Myself
I only realized when I made the fifth ship. And so let's get started. We place the keel on a piece of fiberboard as shown in photo 1. We mark 8 cm from the front and also from the back. And we draw stripes on the keel. It should look something like this:
the back side is 8 cm, the front side is 5 cm. On the front of the keel we make a step to support the deck (photo 5). Next, we try on the deck, cut off the excess, and turn it over to the top with the keel. We find the lowest point between the keel and the deck and install the first rib. Immediately make marks on the keel and on the deck where you install the ribs. Let's make the next edge. It will be installed at the mark where the front part of the deck begins to curve.
The rib width is 16 cm. We measure the height from the deck to the keel, taking into account the slot. Example. The width of the rib is 14 cm. The height from the inside of the keel to the deck is 3 cm + the depth of the slot is 2 cm and also 5 cm. Next, we take the first template blank. We place the future rib on the rectangle, combining upper part and the upper right corner. Draw along the contour. We do the same with the left corner. The height of the workpiece will change but the basic rib configuration
will remain. We also do the back part and one edge between them. After this we make the ribs of the bow of the model. The approximate distance between the ribs is 3 cm. The same is true for the back. After the ribs are ready and adjusted, we glue them, let them fasten and glue the deck.
When this is all done, we make inserts between the ribs around the entire perimeter. Next, we clean everything up and make bevels on the ribs from the bow and back of the ship. After this, we cut a piece from the veneer sheet to the size of the central part of the ship, coat it with glue, let it dry a little and glue it with an iron. We begin the most labor-intensive work: plywood the bottom of the ship in strips. I have them
width is 6 mm. We take the prepared veneer sheet and cut it. After the strips have been cut, it is necessary to process the edges, remove burrs and not big bumps. Glue stripes in the central part
of the ship one to one to the bow and to the rear of the ship with an overlap. Pre-apply fresh glue to the gluing area. This is what we got. Now let's clean everything up and start making additional decks. The front part of the deck starts from the beginning of the curve and protrudes 3 cm. The width of the bow part is 9 cm. The width of the part from the curve is 16.6 cm. After gluing, it will be processed, rounded and will be equal to the width of the main deck.
The rear part also starts from the curve and is 16.6 cm, protruding by 4 cm. The width of the rear part is 9.5 cm. Additional decks have been made; now we will glue them in the same order (you can also glue them using an iron).
First we glue the front part of the deck. Then we plywood it. After this, we ply the main deck before starting to round and install the back of the additional deck. Next we glue the back part. It does not need to be veneered since it is covered with deck superstructures. The decks are glued, rounded and we move on to making the sides of the rear part of the model. We cut two strips 4 cm wide. You determine the length yourself. Start from the point of curvature. The rear part of the board has a deployed
angle 105 degrees. After the strips have been cut out, we make slits on them in the place where they will be
bend along the contour of the deck and apply glue. Once the glue has dried, we begin to veneer. We cut two strips of veneer to width and glue them with an iron, simultaneously bending them along the contour of the deck. We made the side boards, but since they need to be turned out, we carefully sharpen them at an angle, trying them on to the deck. Then we glue them. Making the back of the side will not be difficult for you. Next we move on to
deck superstructure at the rear of the model. The photo shows what she looks like. The superstructure deck configuration must be integral. A small explanation about the photo. Lateral
the platforms should be 1.5 cm longer towards the back of the model. After we have made the deck, we make an insert with windows and other inserts in the openings for the stairs. When we have all the inserts ready and adjusted, we glue them to the deck and after that we glue the deck itself. The deck was glued and after that we plywooded it. Next we make the following sides of the deck superstructure and an insert with windows. The back of the sides will no longer be unfolded, but at a right angle. After the last deck has been made, glued and veneered, we make
finishing sides. With the rear deck superstructure completed, we move on to the bow of the model. We also make front sides with
at an angle of 115 degrees. They also start from the beginning of the additional deck. The sides were made, installed and glued. We proceed to the manufacture of the insert with windows and the upper platform. Dimensions of the upper platform. Length 15 cm, (excluding the balcony) width of the front part 12 cm. Protrudes 6 cm. The rear part of the platform is slightly wider than the sides by about 7-8 mm on each side. After we have made the platform and the insert with the windows, we glue them. Then we ply the area. Next we make the sides of the central part of the model. We cut 2 strips, ply them on the inside, mark them
cannon ports and cut through them. The port size is 1.5 cm by 1.5 cm. The gap between the ports is also 1.5 cm. The ports are 5-6 mm above the deck level.
With the sides finished, we proceed to veneering the outer part of the ship. After veneering the ship, we make ladders. We're done with the stairs, let's move on to the railings. 4 mm stripe mode. We plywood them on three sides, glue them at a distance of 1 mm from the edge, sawing them on a mustache. Next, we mark them and drill holes for installing pilasters under the railings themselves. After that we make the railing ourselves. The same strip mode, but we only veneer the edges. A little trick. The photo shows that the corner pilasters are slightly higher than the others. This is to make it easier to mark.
We drilled a hole, tried it on the pilaster, and marked the remaining points for the pilasters. After all the railings have been installed. We cut off the excess, clean it and
plywood. We do the same in the bow of the ship. Next, we ply the edges of the sides of the ship and clean the entire ship. Let's move on to marking and installing masts. The length of the masts is at your discretion. The diameter of the mast at the bottom is 10-12 mm. At the top 4-5 mm. So that you can drill a hole to install a flagpole made from a toothpick. The ship is completely ready and we begin to sea it. We seam those parts that you consider necessary. We're done with the stain. We make 2 additional fastenings for the ropes (photo 24) and two blocks for raising the sails (photo 25). All that remains is to varnish the model, make the sails, and then install them. For the sails we will need material, a sheet of whatman paper for the pattern, wooden round skewers and the nearest workshop for sewing and repairing clothes. I hope you can handle making and installing sails.

Making ship models is the oldest of man's "technical hobbies": for almost six thousand years people have been immortalizing their ships in miniature. The oldest model found during excavations - a ritual silver boat with oars from a tomb in Mesopotamia - is dated by archaeologists to the beginning of the fourth millennium BC.

Russian professional ship modeling is much younger, but it is already three centuries old. The production of ship models began with the Petrovskaya “model chamber”, in which the “Admiralty” models of all new ships under construction were stored. These were exact, detailed copies of the hull design with the plating partially removed, serving as visual aids for ship carpenters who were poorly versed in drawings.

In fact, Peter I himself was the first serious Russian modeler. At the age of seventeen, having returned from the “Grand Embassy” to Europe, he built such a model of a frigate. By order of Peter, all models were kept as samples for posterity. The collection of our Naval Museum at one time began with the collection of this very “chamber”, located on the site of the current fountain in front of the Admiralty.

Probably, many people, and especially those living in St. Petersburg, with its history and traditions, at least once had the desire to build a model of some sailing ship with their own hands. However, without the necessary skills and tools, this can hardly be done at home, guided by specialized literature and shipbuilding sites. The technologies described there are often quite complex, require special equipment, materials and almost always already require a certain amount of experience, so making a ship is not an easy task. As a result, someone whose skills are limited school lessons labor and folding paper boats, the difficulties that arise during work are more likely to discourage desire than to create interest. It can be difficult to find recommendations that allow you to create something significant, starting from scratch. But still, if you wish, it is quite possible to build a fairly decent model, having at your disposal the simplest tools available in any house where there is a man “with hands”, and minimum set material. You just need to initially set yourself up for the fact that everything will work out, definitely (!), but almost never right away. That a failed operation, a screwed-up part (it’s good if there’s only one!) is the norm, a necessary acquired experience, and not an emergency.
Serious professional modelers, whose works, sometimes costing tens of thousands of dollars, take first place at international exhibitions, as a rule, have a rather skeptical attitude towards models made of papier-mâché. This is understandable - paper, even well-glued, will still remain paper. But for someone who is trying his hand at modeling for the first time, this working technique will be the most preferable. She doesn't require any expensive materials, no tools, and as a workplace allows you to limit yourself simple table with a piece of plywood placed on it and a grill for the bathroom, so as not to create dust in the room. It’s great if you have an electric drill with a tripod that can be mounted on fresh air. But if not, then the conditions described above will allow you to start, and most importantly, finish your first model. All the models presented in these photographs - from a Roman galley to an armored cruiser - were built using this technology and precisely in these conditions. Fifteen years ago, after an injury, suddenly finding himself isolated from environment, I had to remember my childhood hobby and try to turn it into a profession. After reading a fair amount of literature, I realized that none of the techniques given there pure form it does not suit me. As a result of many trials and experiments over the years, a technology has emerged that allows it to work independently of any external circumstances. However, with all the accessibility of the method, it still won’t hurt to acquire something before starting work. The most important thing, of course, is what and how all this will be built. So, what is needed in order to make a ship out of wood with your own hands:1.1

MATERIALS

Array- i.e. ordinary wood, necessary primarily for the manufacture of spars. For mast columns, pine slats of the appropriate section are best suited. Birch is worse: it is more difficult to select even sections from it and more difficult to process. The thinner parts of the masts - topmasts and flagpoles, yards, the rest of the spar are perfectly made from birch kebabs, which can sometimes be bought in various super-hypermarkets. It is worth paying attention to the fact that they come in different thicknesses: 3.5 and 3 and 1.8 mm came across. For the smallest parts, it is good to use wooden toothpicks. Other wooden parts; in theory, and in theory, those made from solid wood are easier and better obtained from 2-3 layers of veneer of the corresponding species glued together by “Moment” in 2-3 layers.

Glue. Optimally - furniture PVA. Proven - Novgorod PVA-M "Akron". If there isn't one, another one will do. The main thing is that the purpose should indicate “for gluing” wood products, and not “for gluing” - this one holds much worse. When buying, ask to try it - glue two pieces of veneer together by squeezing them with a clothespin, wait 30 minutes until it dries and try to tear them apart. If the glue is good, the veneer will tear, but not the glue. In addition, apply a smear to the surface - a matte, but absolutely homogeneous, transparent film without a milky tint should form. Estonian PVA is good, but sometimes it doesn’t stick to our dried one and falls off. Those. Having started working with one, it is better to continue with it. And, of course, the ordinary “Moment” is also irreplaceable.
Varnishes, paints. Varnish is best suited "Aqua" - i.e. on water based. Dries quickly and does not leave streaks on paper and cardboard. And, which is essential when working in an apartment, there is practically no smell. It makes sense to purchase both colorless and tinted to match dark wood. Paints - after trying several options, I settled on acrylic ones. Of these, the most necessary is gold. Proven - "Inca Gold". Where possible, it may be easier to stick the above-mentioned colored paper. In general, in the traditions of the Russian modeling school, painting models was not very common. Unlike Europe, where they strived for one hundred percent similarity with the original even in shades, in Russia they tried to select valuable types of wood so that their color, although not exactly, approximately, would correspond to the color of the painted original.

Fabric and thread. Any white cotton fabric is suitable for sails. Naturally, the thinner the thread and the tighter the weave, the better. The main thing is that there is no synthetic admixture, otherwise it will not stick well. The same applies to threads. Pure cotton, however, is now difficult to find, but if the percentage of synthetics is small, then you can try them. For standing rigging you need black threads, for running rigging it is better to use light beige threads. Thickness - suitable for everyone possible numbers: from the maximum - 10 or even 0, if you can find it, to 40 - 50. In the literature, it is sometimes recommended to tint the fabric with a weak tea solution for authenticity. I tried it and didn’t like it: it may be more reliable, but the pure white sails look much nicer. But if you don’t find the right color for the threads, it’s better to lightly tint them with wood stain.

Wire and foil- preferably copper or brass, but any will do, even from tubes. Small nails, plasticine, self-adhesive film, etc. - This is not an exhaustive list; new ideas can come to mind at any time during the entire work process.

TOOLS

In addition to the standard set of tools that does not need comment, such as a plane, pliers, wire cutters, a screwdriver, clamps in pairs - larger and smaller, a hammer, a hacksaw, chisels, etc., there are several specific things that are worth mentioning separately .Electric drill. If you have an idea to get down to business seriously, and not limit yourself to one test copy, you should definitely get a drill. It is advisable to choose something more powerful - 500 watts, no less. Very good if with a tripod and adjustable speed. Extremely useful thing- grinding disc. Those. not a sharpening one (that wouldn’t hurt either), but a grinding one - on the surface of which you can attach sandpaper. Saws. A jigsaw is a useful, although not essential, thing. A hacksaw for metal will come in handy more quickly (albeit for working with wood). It’s good to have two blades for it: small and large. Files. Four or five pieces different shapes and it’s worth having notches, but, from my experience, the main and almost irreplaceable ones are flat, small, the largest you can find. It’s also a good idea to have a set of needle files. Knives. Your favorite and necessary knife(pictured) I made myself about 25 years ago from canvas on metal. There are no such things on sale. There is no work without it - only it can cut veneer into strips with high quality. It was about five (!) centimeters longer - it was worn down... So, if you make a similar one, then with a margin in length. When choosing a blade for a blade, try to bend it: if it remains bent, it is too soft. If it breaks, it will fit. You can make it out of the debris. Take a longer blade so that it goes almost through the entire handle. The rounding at the end of the handle is also not accidental: it is convenient for them to rub in parts being glued (especially on the “Moment”), and to simply smooth out unevenness.
Pay attention to the sharpening - it is one-sided, while the right side of the blade is ground off - that is, if you cut it along a ruler, leading like a pencil, then the flat side is pressed against the ruler, and the ground chamfer faces away from the ruler. Blade angle - approximately 30, sharpening - 15-20. From the same cloth it is worth making small thin cutters, like chisels, of different widths: 4, 6, 8, 12 mm - although not immediately, but gradually they will all come in handy somewhere. You can find wood carving kits with semicircular cutters on sale. They, too, sooner or later, will definitely be needed. Awl. Ordinary shoemaking. But you will have to make one more thing yourself - from a long thin nail or from a thick one sewing needle(convenient from a machine) on a long (15-20cm) handle. Well, while we're on the subject, a set of sewing needles different sizes will also be needed. Brushes. It’s worth getting a dozen and a half at once - all sizes: from 2 to 20mm, different hardness for different needs. Sometimes, instead of a glue brush, for small jobs it is convenient to use a thin wire wound to a stick.
Scissors. It is worth having at least two, and preferably three pairs: a separate one for fabric, for foil, and for paper, veneer and cardboard. Sanding paper. A minimum of three numbers is required: from the largest for leveling the body blank for veneering to the smallest for sanding for finishing. Well, the average one is for intermediate work. Sharpening stones for cutters - it’s worth getting three of them, including the smallest whetstone for final finishing.
Little things - necessary, and simply convenient to use: drawing supplies, large tweezers, small pliers with long thin jaws, clothespins, rubber bands "for money", a crochet hook, a table vice, a transparent plexiglass ruler 50 cm long, indelible black and brown markers, wood stain. Yes, you never know what else you can come up with creative approach to the point!
And forward. So, having acquired all of the above, or being confident that you will get what you need at the right time, you can, inspired, get started! I won’t advise you where to get the drawings - there is a lot of literature, the Internet is huge and dynamic - sites are born and die. And I myself Lately I wasn’t interested in this direction... In any case, since you got here, you can get to the drawings. Study several projects of different ships, comparing their designs and details. Often details missed in one set are perfectly presented in another - for a similar ship of the same class, and vice versa. Their stories are worth reading too. It’s good when the debut is not the first thing that catches your eye, but the fact that as a result of the selection you like more than everyone else - it will be much more interesting to work. Such a model has a much greater chance of being finished - it would be a pity to leave it unfinished... Well, let's start, of course, with the body.
Author - Dmitry Kopilov
Exclusively for the site

Sailing ships are divided into frigates and line frigates. The most powerful three-masted ships are battleships, which are characterized by displacement, armament and the size of the crew.

This class of sailing ships dates back to the seventeenth century, with the advent of artillery (cannons) capable of conducting linear combat (simultaneously from all onboard guns from the side line).
In shortened form they are called “battleships”.

Model drawings can be downloaded for free from the website or from other sources.

In May 1715, the Russian 3rd rank cannon battleship Ingermanland (64 guns) was launched from the Admiralty shipyard in St. Petersburg. Peter I himself took part in the development of its drawings. The battleship had impressive dimensions for that time: length - 52 m; width – 14m; hold depth - 6m. Peter's golden standard soared on his mast. This ship was for a long time flagship of the Russian fleet.

Ship ranks in the sailing fleet:

• The first rank is a three-deck or four-deck, the largest sailing ship (from sixty to one hundred and thirty guns).
• The second rank is three-deck (a ship with three decks) (from forty to ninety-eight guns).
• The third rank is two-deck (from thirty to eighty-four guns).
• The fourth rank is two-deck (from twenty to sixty guns).

L"Artemise

L "Artemiz was a cannon frigate of the French fleet. Magicienne frigate class, weight 600 tons, on board 32 guns, of which 26 were twelve-pound long guns and 6 were six-pound guns. The frigate was laid down in Toulon in December 1791. It had a length of 44 meters 20 centimeters .

Frigates were military ships with one or two decks and three masts. They differed from battleships in their smaller size. Their purpose is cruising service, reconnaissance (long-range), a surprise attack on an object with the aim of further capture or destruction. The largest models were called linear frigates. According to statistics, more frigate models are downloaded for free than battleships.

In modeling, plywood is the most popular material. This is due to high quality indicators, as well as ease of operation. Plywood sheets are very easy to cut and quite easy to process. Using suitable scheme(drawing), you can make ships from plywood with your own hands.

Plywood is universal material, which is easy to cut and process different ways, therefore, it is recommended to begin your acquaintance with modeling with plywood patterns.

Designing a ship yourself is quite interesting activity. But in order to get started complex models, you need to practice on easier ones.

Materials and tools

To create patterns from stucco on board a ship, you need to prepare your own composition from which you can form reliefs. For the solution it is necessary to prepare following tools and materials:

• wood dust;
• PVA glue (on average, one ship model can take about half a liter of glue);
• plasticine for creating small irregularities and patterns;

Materials and tools that are used during ship modeling:

Birch plywood will provide minimal amount chips when sawing.

• plywood of the required thickness;
• Super glue;
• sandpaper for surface treatment;
• nylon thread;
• jigsaw for cutting out parts;
• construction knife;
• wood for the mast. It is better to use pine, as it is much easier to process;
• dye;
• small brushes;
• Chinese chopsticks;
• fabric for sails;
• a thread;
• pencil ruler.

The wood for modeling should be soft, not fibrous. The most popular options are cedar, linden, and walnut. All wooden blanks must be perfectly smooth, without knots or damage. It can be used as additional element for creating decorative parts. Wood can also be used to create the main elements of the model, such as the deck and hull.

Plywood is the most popular material in modeling. In areas such as modeling, birch or balsa plywood is most often used. This is due to the fact that these types of wood practically do not chip during sawing. To make a boat from plywood, you need to use sheets with a thickness of 0.8-2 mm.

A simple diagram of a plywood ship model.

Veneer - sheet material, very thin, made of wood valuable species. In most cases, veneer is used as facing material. It is used to paste over products that are made from inexpensive material.

Fasteners will not only perform the main task of holding parts together, but also perform decorative role. To create a model of a boat, you need to prepare thin chains (several sizes can be used), laces, threads, copper or brass nails. In order to transfer a drawing from sheet to plywood, it is best to use tracing paper and a pencil. This will make the drawing more detailed. To fasten the plywood parts together, you must use glue. Fine detailing can be made using metal casting, using polymer clay or make your own solution from wood dust and PVA glue. After complete drying, this mass is very durable and can be painted in the desired color.

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Preparatory work

If you are modeling a plywood ship for the first time, it is recommended to purchase kits in which all the parts have already been cut out and processed. But its cost can sometimes be quite high. Therefore, with great desire and effort, experience can be gained in the process of assembling your ship. Modeling, like other types of work, necessarily begins with the preparatory stage. The first thing you need to start with is what kind of ship you will model. To begin with, it is worth looking at various drawings and finished works, this will make choosing a model much easier.

Having studied the drawing in full, it is worth checking the presence of all necessary materials and tools to get the job done. Modeling ships is a piece of jewelry. It requires a lot of time and perseverance.

At the preparatory stage it is necessary to make paper or cardboard templates all the details. After that, they are all transferred to plywood. On this preparatory stage work can be considered completed.

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Manufacturing of parts

In order to make all the parts, cut them out of plywood sheet, nessesary to use appropriate tool. For work you can use manual jigsaw, but, if possible, it is better to use the electric model option. Using the second option will significantly reduce the time for manufacturing all elements. This is especially true for the smallest details.

The sawn blanks are processed with a file, removing chips and burrs.

In order to cut out a part, a hole is made in the plywood into which a jigsaw file is placed. It is necessary to cut out all the details very carefully, while respecting all contour boundaries, since inaccurately cut parts can later spoil appearance the entire ship. Each sawn workpiece must be processed with a file from the ends. During this cleaning process, it is necessary to remove a small part of the chamfer where chips and burrs have formed. When cutting, this moment cannot be avoided.

You need to assemble the ship when all the parts are cut out and the ends are processed. This will allow you to do assembly work without being distracted by cutting out missing parts.