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Delphinium: plant characteristics and transplantation. Transplantation for the purpose of reproduction

Delphinium, also known as spur or larkspur, is especially loved by gardeners - it is one of the few herbaceous plants for open ground, the flowers of which are naturally colored various shades of blue color. Planting and caring for perennial delphinium requires increased attention, careful preparation and consistency. Difficulties can be overcome if you use the proposed instructions and advice.

Preparing to plant delphinium in open ground

Spurs are considered capricious flower, the success of growing which depends on correctly carried out preparatory measures.

Landing dates

Plants can be planted/transplanted in spring (April-May) or autumn (from late August to mid-September). Growing delphinium seedlings is the most optimal method, suitable for any region. Sowing of seeds is carried out two months before the intended movement of young plants to flower beds.

Yes, for middle zone best time- mid-March, in southern regions- second half of February, Siberia and the Urals - beginning of April. Gardeners in the south do not bother with germinating seedlings, sowing seeds directly into open ground. The first half of April or from the second half of September to mid-October is considered a suitable time for sowing.

Choosing a location on the site

If you choose the right place where it is best to plant the delphinium, the handsome openwork will show itself in all its glory:

Good lighting. It is better to plant where the sun shines in the morning and late afternoon, and where there is shade at midday. Delphinium tolerates heat well, but the flowers of brightly colored varieties fade under the sun and lose their attractiveness and decorativeness.
Wind protection. Most varieties are tall, the hollow stems of these plants easily break under gusts of wind. However, almost all garden flowers do not like drafty places.
No moisture stagnation. Rain or melt water that is not absorbed into the soil for a long time contributes to rotting of the roots.
Soil preparation
The ideal soil for larkspur is moderately moist loam or sandy loam, rich in organic matter, neutral or slightly acidic.

Soil preparation

Clay areas are corrected: sand take 1-2 buckets/sq.m, mineral complexes - 50-80 g/sq.m, compost or humus - 20-25 kg/sq.m. Depleted soils are enriched per square: minerals - 40-50 g; organic - 10-15 kg. The acidic soil is limed, and granulated sulfur (30-50 g/sq.m.) is added to the alkaline soil.

dig up the soil using the bayonet of a shovel;
lay out a 20-centimeter layer of drainage;
mix the excavated soil with rotted compost (1 bucket), ash (2 cups), bone meal (1 cup) and superphosphate (2 tbsp) per 1 sq.m.

The flowerbed turns out to be elevated, which the delphiniums like.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Spurs are planted by seeds or vegetatively, that is, by cuttings or “divisions” of the rhizome. Vegetative method definitely produces pure-bred offspring. It is better to buy seeds for sowing from famous manufacturers: agricultural firms “Aelita”, “Gavrish”, “SeDek”, “Poisk”, etc. Cuttings and “divisions” are taken from 2-3-year-old queen cells.

Seed preparation algorithm:

Disinfection in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, Maxim or Fitosporin preparations for 20 minutes.
The treated seeds are washed with running water.
Then soak in water for a day with the addition of a few drops of Zircon or Epin. Medicines can be replaced with folk remedies - aloe, honey.
The soaked seeds, wrapped in a damp cloth, are placed in a container and put away for stratification (i.e., in the refrigerator). The napkin in which the seeds are wrapped must remain moist, but not “float” in the water, otherwise the seeds will suffocate and die.
Stratification continues until the seeds hatch. Then the bundle is moved to a well-lit windowsill and kept under a phytolamp for several days.
Then the material is sown in seedling containers or in open ground.

Another method of preparing seeds: after disinfection, they are wrapped in a damp cloth and packaged in plastic bag and dig it in the area for a couple of weeks. The method is applicable at low (around 0°C) temperatures.

Landing technique

Successful germination of seeds and further care for seedlings completely depend on the accuracy of the technology.

Sowing seedlings

To please the capricious “king of the flower garden” with vigorous flowering from the first year, follow the following instructions sequentially:

Determine the timing of sowing. They begin to sow in February if there is equipment for additional illumination of the seedlings, otherwise wait for an increase in the length of daylight hours.
Pre-sowing seed treatment is carried out.
Select containers for sowing. Quickly decomposing individual pots where one seed is sown is not the best option. The root system of the seedling does not immediately absorb the soil, which can lead to souring. It is optimal to sow in shallow seedling containers with drainage holes.
On a note! A good option is disposable food packaging. If it has already been used, it must be disinfected.
Prepare the substrate. Purchased soil is suitable: universal for seedlings or succulents. Mix peat, garden or garden soil, humus or compost, sand (2:4:2:1). The mixture is sifted, perlite is added (1 cup/10 liters of soil mixture).
Disinfect the soil by heating it in the oven for an hour. Purchased soil is shed with a solution of “Fitosporin” or “Fitolavina”.
Fill the containers with the prepared substrate, tamping it lightly.
The seeds are laid out on the surface, without deepening or pressing down.
Sprinkle with a thin layer of soil mixture or vermiculite.
Cover with a lid or cover with cling film.
The container with the crops is placed in a cool, dark place.

Spur shoots appear by the middle of the 2nd week. Gardeners advise checking the crops daily from 6-7 days in order to immediately transfer the seedlings to a warmer place. The film or cover can be removed.

Seedlings are grown under the following conditions:

moist soil;
daylight hours 12-14 hours;
temperature regime 18-20°C.

Seedlings dive at the stage of two true leaves. Place the sprouts in separate small glasses. The substrate is taken as for germination, adding complete mineral complex 2 tbsp/10 l of substrate.

After picking, the temperature and light conditions do not change. The first watering of seedlings is carried out after a week, if during the transplanting process the soil was abundantly moistened. Before planting in the flower bed, the seedlings are fed with complex mineral fertilizers (Agricola, Fertika Plus, etc.) every two weeks.

Attention! Root feeding; if the solution gets on the leaves, it should be washed off immediately with water.

Sowing in the ground

Direct sowing of spur grass seeds is carried out from the second half of April. For this purpose, a special garden bed is being prepared:

the soil is dug up to a depth of about 30 cm;
apply complex fertilizers;
make shallow grooves, about one and a half centimeters;
pour plenty of water;
seeds are laid out in the grooves;
sprinkle with dry substrate.

In order for the seeds to germinate faster and more easily, the crops are covered with agrofibre or a black (dark) film. The crops are periodically moistened, preventing the soil from drying out. The cover is removed after germination - at 3-4 weeks. During the first season, seedlings are watered moderately, fed twice a month, the soil is loosened and weeds are removed. In winter, the garden bed is covered with spruce branches so that the young plants do not freeze. In the spring of the second year, young shoots of spurs are transplanted onto prepared permanent place.

Caring for delphinium in open ground

Activities related to plant care are not difficult, the main rule is regularity.

Watering

During the growing season, one plant needs 65 liters of water. When there is little rainfall in the summer, 2-3 buckets of water are poured weekly under each bush. More frequent, but less abundant watering is required at the stage of inflorescence formation. If there is a lack of moisture, some of the buds do not develop properly, and empty spaces appear in the inflorescence.

Note! Water the delphinium strictly at the root; surface watering does not benefit the plant. It is undesirable for water to get on the green parts of the plant - stems, leaves.

In late autumn, if there is little precipitation, water abundantly so that preparation for winter takes place without complications. After each watering, when the soil dries, loosening is carried out.

Trimming

The first time pruning is done when the stems grow to 30 cm. The flower stalks are thinned out according to the following scheme: for plants blooming for the first time, 2 stems are left; adults – 4-5. Side shoots of tapeworm plants are removed. They are left in delphiniums growing in mixed plantings. Faded shoots are removed so that the plant does not waste energy on the formation and ripening of seeds. Before winter, cut off the last flower stalks at a height of 30 cm.

Top dressing

During the season, fertilizing is applied twice:

early spring - urea (2 tbsp), potassium sulfate (2 tbsp) and superphosphate (1 tbsp) per square;
before flowering, 1 tbsp. l. potassium and phosphorus fertilizers per sq. m;

From August, feeding is stopped so as not to stimulate growth and continued flowering, but to allow the plant to lay flower buds for the next season. To root system, located close to the surface of the earth, did not receive burns from fertilizers, it is recommended to dig special grooves into which to pour the nutrient solution. During budding, spur leaves are sprayed with a solution boric acid(50 g/l).

Preparing for winter

After flowering is completed and the leaves dry, the stems are cut at a level of 30-35 cm above ground level. The internal cavities of the shoots are covered garden varnish or clay so that moisture does not get into them, penetrate to the roots and cause rotting. Frost-resistant delphiniums do not need shelter for the winter; only young plants are covered. If weather forecasters promise frosts and little snow for the winter, it is advisable to cover the bases of delphinium bushes with spruce branches or straw. Experienced flower growers also dig grooves around each plant before winter to drain rainwater in the fall and melt water in the spring.

Note! “When the stems grow to 60 cm tall, the plant needs to be tied up.

To do this, three pegs are driven into the ground around it and the flower stalks are fixed using a wide braid or tape.”

Reproduction methods

As everybody herbaceous plants for open ground, delphinium can be grown from seeds, cuttings and “divisions” of rhizomes.

Reproduction of perennial delphinium by division

Dividing the rhizome of a mature spur is the simplest and therefore popular method. The age of the plant suitable for division is 3-4 years. Older or younger bushes tolerate the procedure less well. The division is carried out:

in spring, when fresh leaves begin to sprout;
in the fall, when the seeds begin to ripen (and new foliage grows again).

The root is carefully removed from the soil, keeping as large an earthen lump as possible. Break it or cut it sharp instrument, leaving on each division a bunch of roots, one young shoot and one dormant bud. This is enough to young plant quickly grew green mass and prepared for flowering. “Delenki” are seated in prepared places. They are carefully looked after until autumn and covered for the winter.

Propagation of perennial delphinium by seeds

A description of the process of growing spurs from seeds is given above. Let's add a few words about collecting and storing seeds. Delphinium sets seeds easily, but of varying quality. To minimize the loss of time and effort on germinating unpromising seeds, they resort to the following technique: 10-15 lower flowers are left in each inflorescence candle, the rest are cut off. To prevent ripe seeds (they must ripen while still standing) from scattering, the peduncle is wrapped in a single layer of thin cotton cloth or gauze. Ripe seeds are stored in glass jars or foil bags at low temperature. Self-collected seeds do not always inherit varietal qualities parent plants, for those who like experiments and surprises, this serves as an additional incentive.

Propagation of delphinium by cuttings

For reproduction they take apical cuttings. They are prepared in the spring by cutting out young 10-centimeter shoots. Separate from the mother bush at the very root collar with a piece of root tissue. Larkspur cuttings are rooted in a substrate consisting of peat and sand in a 1:1 ratio. Deepen by 2 cm and cover with a transparent cap. Conditions for successful rooting: shade, temperature 20-25°C, high humidity. The process lasts about 5-6 weeks. The cuttings are transplanted to a permanent place in the spring.

Note! “When growing delphiniums in groups, the distance between plants is maintained at least 30 cm.”

Diseases and pests

Black spot - black spots appear on the lower leaves, gradually rising up the stem. For treatment, spray with tetracycline solution (1 tablet/1 liter of water). Powdery mildew is a gray-white coating on the leaves that darkens to brown over time. Plants are treated with a solution of Fundazol, Topaz or other fungicides. Ramularia - leaves become covered with small spots, dry out, and fall off. Treated with antifungal agents. Ring spot is the appearance of yellow spots of irregular shape on the leaves. Viral disease, there are no reliable means of combating. Plants are dug up and destroyed.

Phorbia (delphinium fly) lays eggs in unopened buds. A control measure is spraying with insecticides (Prometrin, Iskra) at the budding stage. Spider mite attacks plants when the air is too dry. Prevention and destruction of the pest - green soap, "Fitoverm". Aphids - plants are treated from the first days of spring. In addition to ready-made insecticides, they use folk remedies: infusions of tobacco, garlic, onion. Slugs are most dangerous for young seedlings. It is optimal to use traps or sprinkle the soil with dry mustard, eggshell, hot pepper.

Remember! Most often, delphinium diseases are the result of violations of care rules or unfavorable weather conditions, such as: prolonged rains, high humidity, poor air circulation between plants.

Popular types of delphinium

More than 400 species of annual and perennial delphiniums are known. They differ in height, color and structure of the flower, and flowering period. Domestic gardeners love several species.

Delphinium hybrids

A group of tall delphiniums - from 1 to 2 m and above. The rhizome is short, the stem is hollow, erect. Flowers of irregular shape - simple, semi-double and double - form a cluster-shaped inflorescence. The flowers are painted in various tones of blue, blue, lilac, violet, pink and white. Flowering in July southern regions again - in September. Preference is given to the varieties “blue lace”, “winter’s daughter”, “King Arthur”, “Pushkin”, “pink sunset”, “lilac spiral”.

On a note! The “black knight” variety is very impressive with large double flowers of a thick ink color.

Delphinium Belladonna

Graceful plants with loose panicle inflorescences. They begin to bloom in June, with the second wave occurring in mid-to-late August. The flowers are simple and semi-double, color from white to deep blue with all shades. They are considered ideal for beginners, since caring for this group of varieties is easier. Prominent representatives of “Berghimmel”, “Casablanca”, “Lamartine”, “Piccolo”.

Delphinium grandiflorum

The standard height of the species is up to 80 cm. The stem is straight, branched. The color of the flowers is rich, blue, pink or white. The flowers are medium in size, the inflorescence is racemose. Blooms from the second half of July. The favorite varieties of delphinium grandiflorum among summer residents are “pink butterfly”, “blue butterfly”, “white butterfly”.

Delphinium field

An annual plant up to one and a half meters high. The flowers are simple, double and semi-double, in pink, blue, lilac and white shades. Blooms from June to September. The following varieties have become widespread: FrostedSky, QisRose, QisDarkBlue.

Delphinium tall (DelphiniumElatum)

A tall (up to 180 cm) line of varieties with dense pyramidal inflorescences, the length of which reaches 40 cm. The flowers are often semi-double, large - about 8 cm. Flowering occurs in the second half of June - early June. Blooms again towards the end of summer. The best varieties: “agenweid”, “finstearon”, Sungleam. On a note! In addition to those listed, Pacific and New Zealand hybrids, distinguished by their variety of colors and tall stature, and hybrids of domestic selection - Marfinsky - are also popular.

Delphinium in landscape design

Slender, elegant delphiniums are used in the background of mixborders; next to decorative tall evergreen or early flowering shrubs; for decorating the walls of outbuildings and fences; to accent the center of the flowerbed; when decorating borders and ridges (low-growing species); on alpine roller coaster(miniature varieties); as tapeworms on lawns or among ground covers. When planted together, the spur plant looks impressive with phlox, roses (including climbing roses), and lilies.

Planting and caring for perennial delphinium requires some effort; it is not for nothing that it is called the “king of flower beds.” The troubles and time spent are completely repaid by the enchanting beauty of the blooming candle inflorescences. Besides, what you put your soul into, willy-nilly, you value more.

Among the huge variety of colors of even the largest flower garden, pure blue and dark blue tones are quite rare. Apparently, this is why delphiniums - the bluest of all the variety - have so many fans. garden plants. Even a single bush, successfully located against the wall of the house, against the backdrop of a green lawn, coniferous shrubs or in the background of a flower garden, attracts the eye. In group plantings, delphiniums of different shades and colors are used; there are white, pink and finally almost red varieties, but still it is the delphinium that is the unique bearer of all shades of blue!
Delphiniums usually bloom twice a season, in June-July and again in the fall, and since delphiniums have decorative foliage, the plants look attractive all summer long.

Agricultural technology of perennial delphinium.

The best times for planting and replanting delphiniums are: the beginning of the growing season (late April - early May) and after flowering (late August - early September).
It is important not to be late with planting in the fall, otherwise the plants will not have time to take root properly and may be “squeezed” to the surface by frozen soil, in which case they are unlikely to survive the winter. They thrive on fertile and loose soil, without stagnant water.
Since the plants are quite large, the distance between the bushes should be at least one meter.

It is better to plant plants in a sunny, windless place. In blown areas: from strong wind their tall, up to two meters, stems can break. Delphinium, like no other plant, is important to tie to a support in time: the tall stems, crowned with a heavy inflorescence, are very fragile at the base.

To plant delphiniums, they dig holes 50 cm deep and 40 cm in diameter. Soil mixture prepared from old humus, peat, leaf soil and garden soil in equal parts, seasoning it with 1-2 tablespoons of complete mineral fertilizer per plant. On acidic soils, add a glass of ash or a handful or two of lime.
If the place chosen for planting is damp or flooded with meltwater in the spring, it is better to plant the plants on mounds and add sand to the base of the root collar.
Plants are planted so that the root collar, with replacement buds, is flush with the surface after watering and shrinkage of the soil. Under no circumstances should plants be buried!
In the spring, when the shoots grow to a height of 10-20 cm, it is necessary to feed the delphiniums with complex mineral fertilizer. Strongly overgrown old specimens are thinned out in early spring; when the plant reaches a height of 30-40 cm, the bushes need to be thinned out: to do this, cut out all the weak, thin stems, leaving no more than seven shoots in the bush along the periphery of the bush. The bare center is mulched with humus or fresh fertile soil. This technique helps produce stronger inflorescences and protects plants from diseases.
By the way, shoots removed when thinning the bush are excellent material for propagation. While they have not yet become hollow inside (up to 10 cm long), they are used as cuttings: planted in sand or a mixture of sand and peat to a depth of 2 cm under non-woven material. With constant moisture, they root well.
After thinning, it is necessary to tie the plants to stakes.
They are tied in three places from 20-30 cm from the ground to the beginning of the branching of the peduncle at a height of 80-100 cm. In hot, dry weather, the bushes need to be watered once a week.
After flowering, if you don't want the seeds, cut off the stems and delphiniums will bloom again in the fall. To do this, the plant needs to be fed again.

You can rejuvenate mature 4-5 year old bushes by dividing and replanting them in a new location. This procedure should be carried out in late April - early May. To do this, you need to dig up the rhizome, cut it into separate parts (divisions) with renewal buds and roots. A six-year-old bush yields 8-12 divisions. At first, newly planted plants must be protected from the sun and watered abundantly, avoiding drying out.
It is also possible to divide delphiniums in August-September, but it is still preferable to do this in the spring.
In the spring, starting from the age of two, delphiniums must be fed with mullein solution or full mineral fertilizer. And the less nitrogen in the mineral water, the better.
In dry weather, abundant watering is necessary. From lack of moisture lower leaves dry out and the plants lose their decorative properties. But the main thing is that they bloom worse.

You can also propagate your favorite variety by dividing the rhizomes. Plants even from small divisions bloom when divided in spring the same year, and when divided in autumn - in the summer of the next year.

The stem of delphiniums is hollow; after cutting the flowers, a long tube remains in which moisture collects, and as a result, the root collar can rot in the spring. To prevent this from happening, in the fall you should break off the stems or split them down to the base with a sharp knife. The shoots that bloom in late summer are thinner and can simply be felled to the ground and removed in the spring.
For preventative purposes, in case of a winter with little snow, the plants can be lightly covered with spruce branches.
But generally, delphiniums winter well in central Russia, and under a layer of snow they are not afraid of even severe frosts. More often than not, plants die not from frost, but from excess moisture in winter time. It is dangerous for them to alternate between long thaws and frosts. In this regard, it is advisable to provide the plants with a dry winter.
A shelter from rain and snow is built over especially valuable varieties.
Delphiniums of New Zealand selection can withstand frosts down to -25C without shelter. However, in the first winter it is necessary to cover young plants.
Delphiniums can survive on a site for 8-10 years, but a lack of fertilizers and moisture causes the plants to age and die.

If for double delphiniums the main method of reproduction is vegetative (they practically do not produce seeds), then non-double and semi-double varieties, when sown, partially repeat the color and shape of the flowers of the mother plant. And, what is most interesting, seedlings of other colors and shades may appear in the offspring, with best shape inflorescences and more double flowers.

You can plant delphinium seeds in spring and autumn - immediately after collecting them. Often used winter sowing delphinium seeds. All characteristics of the variety are preserved in 80-90% of young plants. Of course, seeds should be collected only from flowers of the most typical shape and color. And one more trick. If you just sow collected seeds, in the fall they will sprout together, and the seedlings will overwinter well. However, the result may be disappointing: there is a high probability that the overwintered seedlings will differ from their parents. This happens because the pigment delphinidin, which is responsible for Blue colour and dominant in delphiniums, is actively formed precisely at low temperatures. In addition, delphinidin, like other pigments, is very sensitive to changes in weather conditions. By the way, the color of flowers can be affected by the composition and acidity of the soil.
So it's preferable spring sowing. Moreover, the sooner, the greater the chance that the plants will bloom in the same year. Since until spring the seeds partially lose their viability: up to 50-70% compared to freshly harvested ones. It is very important to properly store delphinium seeds. They like cool weather, so seeds should be stored in the refrigerator before sowing.

When selecting seedlings, preference should be given to the following combinations: dark color of the corolla - light eye; light color - dark eye. Pure white, soft pink double flowers look better with a light eye. Terry is a desirable sign, but not required. Often a plant with hundreds of semi-double flowers in a dense pyramidal inflorescence looks better than densely double flowers in a loose inflorescence.
Monitor the health of the seedlings. Often in group planting(during prolonged rains) a gray coating appears on the leaves of individual plants - this is powdery mildew. Plants that are not resistant to it are easier to remove than to treat. It is necessary to cull all seedlings with signs of wilting and mosaic.

Real masterpieces are rarely obtained, but if an interesting seedling has grown or you have purchased a varietal seedling, you should think about how to extend its life. Even with careful care, it is usually limited to 5-7 years.
Plants can be completely rejuvenated with regeneration buds (similar to dahlias). After flowering ends in August, they are cut off, being careful not to catch the skin of the mother plant. Planted in cuttings under glass to a depth of 1-2 cm in steamed sand, or an earthen mixture of river sand and peat, or moist, but not wet sphagnum moss, shading from the sun. After 1-1.5 months, roots form at the buds. For the winter, the cuttings are dug into the ridges and covered with spruce branches and a layer of foliage. In spring, the cover is removed and the plants are planted in a permanent place. They easily tolerate transplantation and spring frosts up to 5-6°.

Delphiniums keep well when cut, but it is better to use them not in independent bouquets, but in compositions with flowers similar in tone or in contrasting combinations. Blue delphiniums are good with white or pink peonies, and blue and purple ones with orange or yellow lilies from the Asian hybrids group.

Spur, or larkspur, as the flower is popularly called, is very popular among amateur gardeners. And the increased interest in it is justified. This is one of the few plants for open ground, the flowers of which are painted in a variety of shades. The article will discuss when to replant delphinium and how to do it correctly.

Delphinium perennial: planting and care in open ground

The plant is a perennial, reaching a height of 2 m. The flowers are collected in inflorescences in the form of clusters or panicles.

Spur - quite capricious plant, but proper planting and increased attention to care will help achieve the long-awaited flowering. The plant does not like extremes. The sun tolerates it calmly, but not the midday heat. At midday it needs shade.

Important! When breeding spurs, you must take precautions, as the plant is poisonous. Work must be carried out strictly with gloves.

Delphinium needs high-quality soil with fertilizers and minerals. The soil should not be dry or wet. If the soil in the garden is too waterlogged, you will need to dig grooves for water drainage, otherwise the flower will not survive.

Delphinium perennial

Fertilize the soil three times a year. You will need mineral and organic complexes. The soil needs to be loosened.

In autumn, the flower is pruned. But this procedure must be carried out correctly. The cut flower stem is completely protected from moisture: you can sprinkle it with earth or spread it with clay. So the delphinium will tolerate the removal of shoots just fine.

Propagation is usually done by cutting the root with a shovel. One part of the rhizome is left in the ground, the other is planted in the chosen place.

Immediately after transplantation, the delphinium is fed with nutritional supplements and watered abundantly. They need to be planted at a distance of 40 cm from each other, since the flowers grow voluminous and may be crowded.

Important! Spurr is afraid powdery mildew, because of which the bush rots. Therefore, as a preventive measure, you need to treat the bush with special solutions in advance.

Ways to protect the plant:

cultivate the land with potassium permanganate;
the bush is sprayed with fungicides;
use a solution of ammonia - 2 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water;
use tar water - 1 tbsp. spoon for 5 liters of water.

When can you transplant a delphinium from one place to another?

The flower can be replanted in spring in April and May, at the end of summer and autumn and until mid-September.

When can you replant delphinium?

The bush should not be picked frequently. It is better to transplant at the age of 4-5 years. Some gardeners do this once every 3 years.

If an adult plant begins to hurt, the reason may lie in the choice wrong place. Then it needs to be transplanted as soon as possible. This is done regardless of the time of year, even in July. This is a necessary measure.

Transplanting delphinium: when is it better?

However, there is no consensus among flower growers when to replant perennial delphinium. It is preferable to replant some varieties in the fall, while others in the spring.

In summer

Transplanting delphinium in summer is possible, but there are some nuances. The main thing is that this can only be done in August, when it has already bloomed. How to replant delphinium in summer? The procedure is carried out in the same way as in spring or September.

in autumn

Autumn transplantation of spurs is carried out mainly for reproduction. The procedure can be carried out in one of two ways:

Dividing the rhizome into parts. This option is good for plants that have grown too much. To do this, the perennial needs to be dug up, the bush divided into parts, each of which planted in a previously prepared area. Everything should be done carefully so as not to damage the roots. If you accidentally hit them with a shovel, the adult plant and the shoot will die.
Cuttings. This method is troublesome and requires a lot of time. Gardeners do not often resort to it. In practice, with such planting, the flower most often dies.

The planting area is prepared in advance. Since the plant is whimsical, you need to choose a place protected from winds and drafts. Planting is carried out 50 cm from each other.

Important! It is best to start transplanting spurs in early September and do it before the cold weather, since the plant needs time to adapt and take root.

in spring

This period of the year is considered the most suitable when you can transplant the delphinium to another place. But it is important to remember that it is better to do this in early and mid-April. The main thing is to wait until the frosts have completely passed.

Transplanting delphinium in spring

The main reasons for spring replanting:

replanting the plant in open ground;
planting excess young shoots;
moving from the wrong place;
replanting an adult bush for rejuvenation.

Seedlings that are grown at home are sent to prepared soil and the selected location after hardening. Between sprouts you need to maintain a distance of 60 cm.

Adult flowers are transplanted from one area to another if the conditions for proper planting have not been taken into account. They are transferred when they stop hurting and wasting away.

How and where to plant delphinium

How to plant delphinium? If you need to replant old bushes, follow the following procedure:

dig up bushes if they have reached 15 cm;
Using a sharp knife, cut them into several parts so that each has 2 shoots;
the cut site is treated with charcoal;
the roots are cleared of soil residues, damaged ones are cut off;
shoots are planted in pots filled with a mixture of fertile soil, sand and humus;
containers are taken to the greenhouse for 2 weeks;
then you can transplant the shoots into the ground.

The steps to transplanting a new plant are simple. New flowers are fed and watered abundantly. The place is prepared in the same way as during planting.

Important! After transplanting into open ground (after 2-3 days), the spur may suddenly bloom. The flower needs to be cut so that the plant can devote all its energy to rooting.

Selecting a location

At making the right choice plot, the flower will bloom in all its glory after 2-3 weeks. Criterias of choice:

Select an area protected from the wind. Since the flowers are tall, they can break under strong gusts, so shoots taller than 50 cm are tied to pegs.
You should not plant delphinium where groundwater flows close.
They look for a place so that the sun’s rays fall on the flower both in the morning and in the evening, and at noon there is shading. The spur tree tolerates heat well. Only bright flowers fade in the sun.
Do not plant in areas with stagnant moisture. If melt and rain water is not absorbed into the ground for a long time, the roots of the plants will begin to rot.

Soil preparation

The best soil for delphinium is moderately moist loam or sandstone, which is rich in organic matter, neutral or slightly acidic.

The soil is ready for planting

Clay soil is combined with sand (2 buckets), minerals (80 g per 1 m²), compost (25 kg per 1 m²).

Poor soils are fertilized with various minerals and organic matter. Acidic soil needs to be limed.

Transplantation scheme

Experienced flower growers advise preparing the ground for planting in this way:

dig up the soil using the bayonet of a shovel;
place drainage in a layer of 20 cm;
the excavated soil is mixed with 1 bucket of compost, 2 tbsp. ash, 1 tbsp. bone meal and 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate. The mixture is designed for 1 m².
the bed will turn out elevated, the plants love it.

The spur is not easy to care for, but everything will work out if you adhere to the following rules:

Flowers respond well to organic fertilizers. It is necessary to distribute compost under the bushes twice a year - in spring and autumn.
It is necessary to regularly weed the ground under the plant. It is necessary to destroy weeds and loosen the soil.
To prevent the appearance of viral fungi, it is worth sprinkling the leaves with ash.
Collect seeds dry warm weather from brown boxes that are slightly unripe.

Propagating a perennial by dividing the plant is a risky and difficult process, so care should be taken. If some part of the rhizome was slightly damaged when dividing with a shovel, and the grower moved it to a permanent place with soil, then there is a high probability of death of both parts of the flower. They can wither immediately or after a long period of time.

Important! Varieties with white and pink flowers are very sensitive to cutting with a shovel.

Don't be afraid to replant delphinium. The florist will definitely succeed. The main thing is to do it in the right time and with extreme caution!

Delphinium is native to Asia, Europe and North America- belongs to the ranunculaceae family. It has long and firmly occupied one of the places of honor in the gardens of Russian flower growers.

Thanks to its impressive growth and lush pyramidal inflorescences, it goes well with other flowering plants and is often used in the design of the background in mixborders.

This perennial plant has many varieties, which are usually united under the common name “Cultivated Delphinium”. They differ in height, shape of flowers and their color - from blue, light blue and violet to boiling white and pink.

Features of growing delphinium

Delphiniums grow up to one and a half meters tall and have a hollow stem. Even a slight breeze can break fragile stems. Too hot sun causes flowers to discolor. This determines the choice of place for planting them in the garden.

The plant prefers moderate watering and neutral soil. It is better to water less often, but abundantly. For good flowering, it requires feeding three times a season.

Pruning is an essential element of delphinium care. It also requires a mandatory garter to the support to avoid breaking the tall stem. The first garter should be done when the flower reaches 50-70 centimeters in height.

Important! The garter to the support must be done as the plant grows, every 50 centimeters. It is better to tie it with a strip soft fabric so as not to pinch the stem.

Planting delphinium in the ground

When planting delphinium in open ground, it is necessary to take into account some subtleties that will help the plant to take root well and then give good flowering and growth.

Planting methods

Planting can be done in three ways:

Seeds
Cuttings
Dividing the bush.

Each of these methods has its own characteristics and difficulties. The basic requirements that must be met when planting are as follows:

Select a landing site in advance, taking into account windiness and light conditions.
In the fall, prepare the soil in this place. It needs to be dug up, weeds removed as much as possible and fertilized with organic matter.
In the spring, dig up this place again and apply fertilizers, this time mineral ones.
Prepare holes measuring 40x40 centimeters and up to 50 centimeters deep, located at a distance of at least 50 centimeters from each other.
Pour drainage into the bottom of the hole.
When planting, do not cover the root collar with buds with soil.

Important! After planting, be sure to water the flower generously and continue this watering for about a week.

Optimal time for planting

Both spring and autumn are suitable for planting, the main thing is that the young seedlings are not threatened by frost. Most gardeners prefer spring planting.

Soil for the plant

Delphinium needs neutral, fertile, loose soil. In addition, it is advisable to drain it well. Lime should be added to acidic soil (50 grams per 1 square meter). Clay soil will need to be mixed with sand; you can immediately add drainage in the form of clay shards or broken slate. IN sandy soil It's good to add peat.

Planting in spring

Delphiniums are usually planted in the spring in a place prepared in the fall. Planting takes place when the last frosts have ended, usually by the end of April.

Planting in autumn

If desired, you can plant delphinium in the fall, preparing the ground in the same way spring planting. The best time For autumn planting It will be the end of August or the beginning of September.

To get a beautiful, lush and fully blooming delphinium, it needs care. If left unattended, the plant will die or, at best, will not bloom.

Location for the plant

The choice of location is very important for the delphinium. The place should be well lit, but it is very desirable that it be in the shade for two or three hours a day.

This place should not be blown by the wind, because even a flower tied to a support can break.

Pay attention to which places in the garden are the first to form clearings during the thaw. These places are contraindicated for planting delphinium. The fact is that this plant does not have one large rhizome, but only a branched superficial root system.

It tolerates even severe frosts well, but at the slightest thaw the roots begin to rot and rot.

Important! Avoid planting delphinium near shrubs or trees, as they can rob it of nutrients.

Caring for delphinium after flowering

After the delphinium has faded, you need to cut off the main peduncle, unless you plan to pick the seeds. If the peduncle is cut low (8-10 centimeters), then measures must be taken to ensure that the flower does not rot. It has a hollow stem and water can get into it, causing it to rot. Some gardeners use clay to "seal" the stem. You can simply bend the remaining stem towards the ground.

However, you don’t have to cut the stem so low, but only remove about 30 centimeters. It is advisable to remove all faded inflorescences immediately.

When flowering ends, it is necessary to fertilize the plant.

Caring for delphinium in autumn

In autumn, cut off all faded inflorescences. The stem and leaves gradually wither. As soon as the first frosts begin, the plant is pruned, leaving no more than 30 centimeters. Due to its frost resistance, adult delphinium does not require any shelter for the winter, but it is better to cover young plants with foliage and spruce branches.

How to water correctly

In rainy summers, delphinium does not require additional watering. If the summer is too dry, the flower needs to be watered 1-2 times a week so that the soil does not dry out.

Only newly planted flowers require abundant watering within a week after planting.

The delphinium should be watered at the root so that water does not get on the leaves and inflorescences.

Also, abundant watering is needed during the formation of buds.

The delphinium is fed three times during the season.

In spring (second half of April) you need to mix superphosphate (60 grams for an adult plant), ammonium nitrate(10 grams), potassium chloride (25 grams) and ammonium sulfate (35 grams). The fertilizer should be scattered around the bush and mixed with the soil to a depth of 5-6 centimeters. You can sprinkle peat on top.
Budding period (early June). You need to feed the flower with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
After flowering at the end of August, I use the same fertilizers as in the spring.

Important! If you have difficulties making your own fertilizer, you can already use ready-made compositions for flowering plants.

Delphinium pruning

Pruning delphinium is a mandatory procedure for its growth and flowering. It is necessary for the plant to retain its decorative properties for a long time.

Delphinium grows quickly and produces many young shoots. If they are not pruned, they take a lot of energy from the plant, which has a very bad effect on the size and number of flowers.

Trimming methods

Already in the second year of the bush’s life, young shoots need to be cut out, leaving no more than five of the strongest ones. They need to be cut out when they grow to about 20 centimeters.

When the delphinium grows to 30 centimeters, its excess flower stalks are removed. Only two are left for a young, annual plant and 4-6 for an adult. Only the most powerful ones are retained.

It is better to thin out the central part of the bush in delphiniums.

After flowering, you can radically prune the plant, removing all the stems almost to the root. Then, after a short time, the delphinium will produce new shoots that will bloom for the second time this season. In this case, the flowering, of course, will be weaker than the first, but it will still decorate the garden.

Important! Delphinium produces a second bloom in warmer climates. In moderate temperature conditions of the middle zone, it is better to prevent a second flowering, as it will weaken the plant, and this will affect its lushness in the next season.

Pruning for winter

For the winter, all stems are cut down to 30 centimeters and covered with clay on top.

Delphinium does not like to be replanted too often. It is best to replant bushes that are 4-6 years old. Some gardeners replant once every 3-4 years.

Transplant methods

Replant an old bush better in spring. It is necessary to dig up bushes that have already grown to 15 centimeters. Using a sharp knife, it is divided into several parts, each having 2-3 shoots. The cut areas are treated with charcoal.

The roots are cleared of soil and old deformed parts are removed. Then the divisions are planted in pots with a mixture of fertile soil, humus and sand. It is better to place the pots in a greenhouse for two weeks. And only after this the shoots are transplanted into the ground to a new permanent place.

After transplanting, new plants need to be fed and watered well. Preparing a permanent place for a transplanted plant is the same as when planting.

Important! Even before the transplant to open ground delphinium can throw out the peduncle. It must be removed.

Plant propagation

It is easy to propagate delphinium; even a novice gardener can do this process.

Reproduction methods

There are several methods of propagation - growing delphinium from seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush. The simplest is propagation by seeds, the most labor-intensive is by cuttings.

Propagation of delphinium by seeds

Different varieties can be planted from seeds available in flower shops. You can also collect seeds from the plant.

After collection or after purchase (buy them better in autumn) the seeds must be kept in a cool place for several months, preferably in the refrigerator.

They can be planted in March. To do this, prepare a container with a mixture of humus, fertile soil and sand. The soil needs to be moistened and furrows made on it. Delphinium seeds are very small, so they do not need to be buried in the soil. You can simply scatter their grooves and sprinkle a few millimeters of earth on top.

After a month, the seedlings are thinned out to a distance of about 8 centimeters from each other.

Plants are planted in open ground in May.

Important! Reproduction terry varieties seeds will not give new plants maternal characteristics.

Reproduction of delphinium by dividing the bush

At the end of April, when the bushes have grown 15 centimeters after winter, they are dug up and divided into several parts with 2-3 shoots each.

Delphinium propagation by cuttings

Despite the labor-intensive process, this method is very effective; it allows you to preserve the mother plant itself and its species characteristics.

It is better to propagate delphinium by cuttings taken from young plants. To do this in the spring, when the stems have grown a little (up to about 15 centimeters), you need to cut the cuttings at the very root. For quick rooting, you can treat them with growth stimulants.

Cuttings are planted in loose soil fertile soil in a container that can be placed in a greenhouse. If planting is done directly into the garden bed, it is better to cover the cuttings with jars. In this case, the plants need to be ventilated regularly.

Cuttings need light shade and watering. After 14 days they need to be fed with complex fertilizers.

Rooting of cuttings occurs by the end of summer, then they can be planted in a permanent place.

The flowering time of delphinium depends on the region where it is bred. In warm regions it blooms as early as May and can produce a second bloom towards the end of summer. In the temperate zone, flowering begins in June and continues into July.

Delphinium blooms with very beautiful flowers, mostly in blue and light blue shades. Some varieties are red, pink or white. The flowers are simple, double or semi-double, forming long, dense inflorescences.

Problems, diseases and pests of a flower

Delphiniums can be affected by fungal diseases:

Powdery mildew. Sign – appearance on leaves gray plaque. If left untreated, the leaves turn brown and die. Prevention - avoid getting water on the leaves or trunk when watering. Treat with 1% lime sulphide.
Downy mildew. Sign: spots appear on the upper leaves yellow color and on the bottom of the leaf in the same place there is a gray coating. First of all, it is necessary to thin out the bush and then treat it with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Root collar rot. The sign is yellowing of the leaves and the formation of fungal mycelium in the root zone. The plant is easily pulled out of the ground, as its root system will die. It is treated with a formaldehyde solution - spraying and disinfecting the soil.

Viral infections:

Aster jaundice. Signs: leaves turn yellow and flowers take on a greenish tint. First of all, it is necessary to destroy aphids as carriers of infection. Sick plants are destroyed; the rest need careful loosening of the soil.
Ring spot or mosaic. Signs are the formation of yellow or brown spots on the leaves, drying and falling of the leaves. Slow growth. It cannot be treated and the plant is destroyed.

Pests:

Delphinium fly. Lays larvae in buds. They eat the flower from the inside, so it quickly crumbles and does not produce seeds. Spraying with hexachlorane is necessary during the formation of buds
Slugs. They eat leaves. Thorough loosening of the soil and weeding are necessary.

Popular types (varieties)

Princess Caroline

Very beautiful variety with pink double flowers, growing up to 2 meters in height. Large flowers can reach 10 centimeters in diameter.

Pink butterfly

Delicate, butterfly-like flowers with open wings Pink colour and the low growth of the bush (no more than 1 meter) make this variety especially in demand in landscape design.

Snow lace

An unusually spectacular delphinium variety with snow-white flowers with a dark eye. This variety has a very pleasant aroma during flowering.

Delphinium terry

Characterized by long-lasting and lush flowering from May to August. The flowers have a wide variety of shades. Although in some places you can even find delphiniums of black, red and yellow color.

Delphinium is not an easy flower to care for, but you can avoid mistakes in growing it by following a few tips:

Delphiniums treat very well organic fertilizers, in particular, to manure. It can be scattered under bushes in spring and autumn;
The plant needs constant weeding from weeds and loosening of the soil;
To prevent fungal diseases of delphinium, it is good to sprinkle the leaves with ash;
It is best to collect seeds in dry, warm weather from slightly unripe, brown-colored capsules.

Plant lifespan

The delphinium grows well in one place for the first 4-6 years. Then it must be replanted.

Why does delphinium grow poorly?

Perhaps a dimly lit place in the garden has been chosen. The plant should be inspected for diseases or pests that are slowing down the plant's growth. There may be other errors in care that can only be determined experimentally.

Why do the leaves turn yellow (dry)?

Leaves may turn yellow and dry due to diseases.

Delphinium - planting and care, photo different varieties delphinium Delphinium prefers slightly acidic or neutral, well-drained and fertile soils. They feel great on loose loams, well-seasoned with peat, compost or humus. If the soil of your site has low acidity, add 0.1-0.15 kg of slaked lime per 1 m². In the fall, fertilize and dig up the planting soil along with manure and peat (5-7 kg of manure and peat per 1 m²). Manure can be replaced with compost. Repeated digging should be done in the spring and be sure to add fertilizers to the soil: potassium salt (50-60 g), ammonium sulfate (30-40 g) and superphosphate (60-70 g) per 1 m². The site prepared in this way is ready to accept beautiful green “tenants”.

Make the holes 40-50 cm deep, and estimate the distance between them yourself - it depends on the size of the plant in adulthood. Mix the soil removed from the hole with peat or compost (1:1) and fill the hole halfway. After 2-3 days the earth will settle, then plant the “young trees”.

Delphinium care

In the second year after planting, delphiniums produce abundant growth, so be sure to thin out the bushes. Otherwise, the flowers will be small and the peduncles will be short. When thinning, remove shoots growing from the middle of the bush to ensure good air circulation for the plant. When your delphiniums grow to 50-70 cm, tie them to stakes so that the fragile stems do not break in strong winds.

Delphiniums need three feedings per season.
Do the first in early spring: add superphosphate (60-70 g), ammonium nitrate (10-15 g), potassium chloride (20-30 g) and ammonium sulfate (30-40 g) per 1 m² of soil. Mix the fertilizers, scatter them under the bushes and bury them 5-6 cm. After applying the fertilizers, it is useful to add a 2-3 cm layer of peat under the bushes. Feed the plant a second time during budding: add superphosphate (50-60 g) per 1 m² of soil. and potassium (30-40 g). Fertilize the delphinium for the third time in August with the same fertilizers as during the first feeding.
Delphiniums are moisture-loving plants; make sure that the soil under them does not dry out, but also do not over-water it (take into account the characteristics of the root system). In the fall, when your beauties have finished blooming, cut off their above-ground part, leaving stumps 20-25 cm high. This way you will protect the root collar from rotting during the spring thaw.

A perennial delphinium can live in one place for 8-10 years, after which it needs to be transplanted. These beautiful flowers, unfortunately, are susceptible to diseases. What diseases there are and how to deal with them are presented in the table:

And now I will tell you about the most attractive delphinium varieties that grow well in the Russian climate.

Variety ‘Princess Caroline’

The most beautiful of all types of delphinium. The peduncle reaches to the sky to a height of almost 2 m, the flowers are large, double, pale pink, up to 10 cm in diameter.

Delphinium ‘Princess Caroline’ pink. Photo from cwtimes. ru

Variety ‘Snow lace’

An unusually fragrant variety, the flowers are velvety, snow-white, with dark brown “eyes” in the middle. The height of ‘Snow Lace’ is 1.2-1.5 m, the peduncle is tall, up to 40 cm.

Delphinium ‘Snow Lace’. Photo from sadyrad website. ru

Variety ‘Pink Butterfly’

‘Pink Butterfly’ is famous for its charming soft pink flowers, shaped like a butterfly in flight. The height of the bush is from 0.8 cm to 1 m. It is especially good for staking tall trees and shrubs in landscape design.

Delphinium 'Pink Butterfly'. Photo from ipola website. ru

Looking at the beautiful delphinium, you would never think that it is poisonous. Don't be alarmed, it is only poisonous to herbivores. It is also undesirable to plant delphinium next to an apiary, since some of the toxic substances are retained in the honey from its pollen. If you get poisoned, you won’t get poisoned, of course, but it’s still not worth the risk.

Do you grow delphiniums?

Transplanting delphinium is not as scary as the devil makes it out to be 1435

Transplanting delphinium - the devil is not as scary as he is painted

Delphinium pleases with a variety of annual and perennial species. Flower growers everywhere give preference to the cultivated delphinium variety, which is bred by crossing two species. Delphinium cultivated is a perennial large plant, reaching two meters in height. This species is characterized by a strong, straight stem and strongly dissected leaves that reach particularly large sizes near the base of the bush. The brushes of its flowers vary in height up to one meter. As a rule, the flowering period of delphinium occurs in June and July, however, with timely removal of faded brushes, you can achieve re-blooming in August and September.

Despite the prevailing opinion that delphinium is unpretentious in care and reproduction compared to other perennials, it is one of the most “characteristic” inhabitants of the garden, requiring a specific approach to cultivation.

Delphinium propagation occurs through seeds, dividing the bush and green cuttings, and the seed method is one of the most win-win. On sale it is easy to find a lot of variations of varieties with different flower colors. It is important to know that during the propagation process, the transfer of varietal characteristics does not occur in full, due to the hybrid origin of the varieties, which, however, does not affect the quality and color of the flowers, giving them in some cases a special color and shape.

In turn, propagation by dividing the bush is a rather labor-intensive and risky process, since it is no secret that delphinium is extremely capricious when transplanted, regardless of age. That is why when dividing the bush you will need all your caution and delicacy. If part of the root is damaged with a shovel and accidentally transferred to another place with soil, there is a high probability of death of both parts of the plant. Moreover, this can happen either immediately or after a fairly long period of time, up to three months. Varieties with delicate colors (white and pink) are especially sensitive to this kind of influence. To divide an old bush, carried out in early spring or autumn, it is necessary to carefully dig up the root system and carefully divide it with a knife or by hand, trying to avoid damage to the renewal buds. Do not forget that areas of fractures and cuts require careful treatment using wood ash or a solution of the drug "Maxim".

Given the delphinium's dislike for the transplantation process, appropriate place plantings should be selected and prepared in advance. In this case, it is necessary to take into account such factors as good protection from the effects of winds, the presence of light shade, without which the flowers will fade under the influence of direct sun rays, fertile soil, not subject to excessive dampness. For aesthetic purposes, delphiniums fit perfectly under hedges and walls of buildings, as well as in the company rose bushes and on lawns. If the landing rules are fully followed, Delphinium will delight you with a superb view for a decade, without requiring increased attention and without tormenting you with whims.

What flowers are replanted in the fall, now read all the tips in one article

What flowers are replanted in the fall: read now all the tips in one article

Autumn is the time to start preparing your favorite plants for the cold season. If you don’t know whether you can replant flowers, home or garden, in the fall, this article is just for you! Read useful tips and tell your friends about them so that everyone is aware of the main rules of gardening.

It is best to plant perennial plants in the fall, so that in the spring they will bloom and decorate your windowsill or flower bed. If we talk specifically about indoor plants, then growing a plant from a seed yourself is much more interesting than buying an already mature flower in a flower shop. Moreover, this way your plant will quickly adapt to the conditions of your home and will grow better. Indoor plants from the tropics are planted only in the fall, because in natural conditions they germinate immediately, and do not wait for a long cold season.

As for plants in the country, it will also be easier for them to withstand the cold later if they are planted in winter. The process of planting flowers in the fall will be easier, because the soil has warmed up sufficiently over the summer, it is easy to dig up, and after the first autumn rains you will not have to water the flower beds again. By the end of September you can plant:

Chamomile, lavender, flax, cornflower, iris.

Planting irises in autumn It has its own rules - find out about them in advance. You can also plant nasturtium and poppy in open soil. As frost approaches, you can also take care of perennial plants:

Lilies, adonis, clematis.

To the question whether it is possible to replant indoor flowers in the fall, the answer will be in the affirmative, because you must give the plants time to renew themselves so that in the spring they delight you with their beauty and fragrance.

So, we found out whether it is possible to replant house flowers in the fall. Now we need to clarify the question of when indoor flowers are replanted in the fall. It is best to do this either in the morning or in the evening, and even better - in cloudy weather. Before you repot the plant, water it well, this will make it easier to remove it from the pot without damaging the roots. In this case, the water should be slightly warmer than the water room temperature. If there are dead sections of rhizome, remove them.

What flowers are replanted in the fall at the dacha? Those that bloom in spring:

Ficus, hibiscus, dracaena, oleander, croton.

Now let's find out which flowers are replanted in the fall at the dacha. First of all, you can transplant:

Anemones, primroses, daffodils, tulips.

You can not only replant irises and peonies, but also divide the rhizomes of these flowers. What flowers can be replanted in the fall at the dacha? Be sure to transplant:

Phlox, aquilegia, delphinium.

It is very easy to replant flowers in a flowerbed in the fall; before replanting, it is best to water the plant well. Make sure to maintain the integrity of the root system so that the plant can better take root in the new flowerbed. Is it possible to replant flowers in the fall if you are going to the country in a few days? The answer is “yes”, just first pack the plant head-on in newspaper, and wrap the roots with a damp cloth so that they do not dry out. It is better to trim the flowers.

We hope that you remember when to replant flowers in pots and flower beds in the fall. You can also watch useful videos from Youtube about what flowers can be replanted in the fall to make your garden the most beautiful!

Well? Did these videos help you get some useful tips? Share your thoughts with us below in the comments and rate this article, and also read on the My Tips portal. How to plant a Christmas tree at the dacha!

Delphinium planting and care

Delphinium planting and care
Tips for caring for delphinium

Delphinium care

Delphinium belongs to the Ranunculaceae family and is a genus of herbaceous annual and perennial plants. Today, more than 450 species and varieties of delphinium are known, which is popularly known as spur or larkspur. In its natural habitat, the plant can be found in China, Southeast Asia, and tropical Africa.

The plant received its name due to the original shape of the flower, which in the bud state resembles the head of a dolphin.

There is another version of the origin of the name of the plant - delphinium is named after the city of Delphi, located in Greece. This is where the flower first appeared. Delphinium is very original and beautiful flower, which will easily decorate and transform any garden.

Watering mode

Delphinium prefers abundant watering as it does not tolerate drought well. It is important to ensure that the soil does not dry out. To protect the root collar from moisture and rotting processes, it is necessary to cut off the entire above-ground part of the plant at the end of the flowering period, leaving no more than 25 cm.

The greatest danger is posed by spring thaws, when the root system of the delphinium can die from excess moisture. When choosing a place to plant a plant, try to choose an area that dries out the fastest in the spring.

Lighting requirements

The flower prefers brightly lit, sunny places, reliably protected from drafts. The optimal choice would be a part of the garden that is sheltered from the wind, sunny, but which goes into the shade for several hours during the day.

Temperature

Delphinium is a plant that can easily tolerate severe frosts. This flower easily overwinters at temperatures of -40 degrees.

Fertilizers and fertilizing

Delphinium needs three feedings throughout the season.

In early spring

Biennial delphiniums produce abundant and dense growth, which must be thinned out if you want to maintain the lushness and abundance of flowering. When thinning, shoots are removed from the central zone of the bush, thus ensuring air circulation.

Another rule for growing delphiniums is that the plants must be tied to stakes when the bushes reach half a meter in height. Otherwise, any gust of wind can break your flower.

Planting and replanting delphinium

How to plant delphinium correctly

For delphinium, it is better to choose an area with slightly acidic or neutral soil, you will definitely need good layer drainage. It is also necessary to take into account the fertility of the soil. The best option for the flower is loose, light loam with a mixture of peat and compost.

If your site has acidic soil, but you want to grow delphinium, use slaked lime. It is enough to add 150 g of the substance per square meter in the fall, as well as 7 kg of peat and manure, and dig up the area. In the spring, the soil must be dug up again and fed with potassium salt, superphosphate and ammonium sulfate. Now you can safely plant delphiniums in the garden.

For planting you will need a hole up to half a meter deep. The soil that you removed from the planting hole should be mixed with peat and half of the soil should be poured into the hole. Then you need to wait a few days for the soil to settle well. Now you can plant young plants. Before planting, pour half a bucket of sand into each hole.
Delphinium grows well in one place for no more than six years, then gardeners advise dividing and replanting them.

Delphinium propagation

Methods for propagating delphinium

There are three methods of plant propagation:

Dividing the bush; Cuttings; Seeds.

1. Dividing the bush

This method of propagating delphinium is suitable for plants older than three years. In spring, bushes up to 15 cm high are dug up and divided into several parts so that each part has several shoots. The cut areas should be sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.

The root system must be freed from the ground and deformed parts removed. Young shoots are planted in pots with a prepared mixture of black soil, humus and sand. The containers should be stored in a warm place for two weeks, then the young plants are planted in open ground. If a flower stalk forms before planting in the garden, it must be cut off.

2. Cuttings

In the spring, when the height of the plant reaches 15 cm, strong and healthy shoots are cut in such a way as to capture a few centimeters of the rhizome.

Cuttings can be immediately planted in open ground, the main thing is to choose a shaded place. After three weeks, the young plants are transferred to a permanent location. To ensure that the cuttings take root well, they are regularly sprayed and watered.

3. Seeds

You can only plant seeds that have been kept in the cold. For this collected in autumn planting material must be placed in the refrigerator. In March, the seeds are planted in containers with a substrate: humus, sand and black soil. For planting, it is better to make grooves half a centimeter deep and in increments of 7 cm. After planting, the soil must be slightly moistened. After a month, young shoots should be thinned out and left between the bushes up to 7 cm. Plants can be planted in open ground in May.

Delphinium bloom

Delphinium flowers

First of all, delphinium is attractive due to the variety of shades of its inflorescences. The plant may have blue, pink, white, purple flowers, collected in inflorescences in the shape of a pyramid. Inside each flower, two petals are formed, differing in color from the sepals. These petals attract insects to pollinate the delphinium.

In warm regions, delphinium blooms as early as May, and the second flowering period begins in the fall. In temperate climatic conditions, the delphinium flowering period begins in June, lasts until July and repeats again in the fall.
If you want to wait for re-blooming, be sure to remove dry flower stalks.

Pruning and wintering delphinium

How to prepare delphinium for winter?

At the end of flowering, the delphinium shoots are cut off, leaving no more than 30 cm. To prevent moisture from getting inside the plant, the top of the cut is covered with clay.

In autumn, it is better to cover all plants with straw or spruce branches, despite the fact that delphinium is considered frost-resistant. It is not frosts that are destructive to flowers, but sudden changes in temperature.

Diseases and pests

Ring spot and tobacco mosaic

Yellow or brown spots form on the plants, then the leaves dry out and fall off, and the growth of the bush slows down. As a rule, infected plants are destroyed.

Black spot

Formed during periods of high humidity and excessive watering. To avoid disease, it is necessary to control watering of the plant and remove fallen leaves in the fall.

Powdery mildew

To prevent the disease, plants must be thinned out, dry leaves must be removed in a timely manner, and the bushes must be watered in dry weather. If the disease has already damaged the bush, then the plant must be sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur or cow manure.

Root collar rot

The cause of the disease is damage to the plant through which the fungus penetrates and affects the entire plant. The disease actively develops when high temperatures and high air humidity. In this situation, you can replant the plant or replace the top layer of soil.

Delphinium fly

The insect attacks the inflorescences. To combat insects, special preparations are used.

Aphid

In this case, the leaves on the plant begin to dry. Aphids can be collected manually and the plant can be additionally sprayed with a decoction of tobacco dust.

Slugs

Fertilizers such as superphosphate and lime are excellent in the fight against slugs. You can use cabbage leaf traps.

Frequently asked questions about growing delphinium

Questions most often asked by readers

1. How to collect delphinium seeds correctly?

First of all, you need to choose the right time to collect planting material. It is better to collect seeds in warm, sunny weather.

If the fruits of the plant become overripe, there is a high probability that the seeds will scatter on the ground. That is why it is better to collect fruits that are still brown. In order for the fruits to ripen, they must be stored in a dry place with good air circulation.

2. How to provide proper care for seedlings?

Two main factors successful cultivation seedlings:

Proper watering; Picking plants.

Water the seedlings in a tray so that water does not get on the leaves. Watering must be careful, as excess moisture leads to the death of the plant.

Delphiniums need to be plucked when two full leaves appear on the shoots. For picking, you can use peat humus containers. When choosing a substrate, you need to pay attention to the air permeability of the soil.
With proper care, by the time the seedlings are planted in open ground, the root system completely fills the container.