DIY metal door. DIY iron door

A self-made metal door allows you to save a lot of money. Making a door is not so difficult for those who know how and love to do everything with their own hands. In order to begin work on the manufacture of the structure, it is necessary to complete a drawing of a metal door. It is necessary for accurate compliance technological process manufacturing of the product, namely dimensional characteristics and location of rotary and locking devices. Metal doors are designed not only to protect against the entry of those who like to profit from other people’s property, but also serve as a guarantee good sleep and relaxation in the apartment.

A reliable door insulates the room well from noise, keeps it warm and cozy. Those who really care about their family and home should choose an iron door. For example, wooden doors do not have the same burglary protection system as metal ones. In addition, wood has the property of deforming under the influence of humidity. Also, do not forget about the aesthetic appearance. The door leaf is the beginning of the interior of any room.

Iron door drawing

The first, most important step is to make a sketch of the product from which the drawing will be made. In order for the drawing to be correct, it is necessary to take measurements, taking into account an additional distance of 2 cm from the wall to the future door. This distance is necessary so that the canvas closes and opens without additional effort. Let the cracks form better - they can be easily eliminated with polyurethane foam.

The iron door drawing includes a diagram of the door leaf. This door element consists of metal frame with stiffening ribs, door locks, sheathing in the form of metal sheets, internal thermal insulation materials and hinges. The frame drawing contains a diagram of the steel box and the procedure for attaching it to the box door leaf.

There are some features of the assembly drawing of a metal door: it is necessary to determine the direction of the stiffeners in the structure. They can be horizontal, vertical, or even intersecting (like a grid). The drawing determines the number of steel sheets in the door structure. The diagram should also include the number of loops and their location. Most often, two loops are installed.

You can also do sliding doors with your own hands. When making a drawing for sliding metal structures, it should be taken into account that such doors do not have hinges, since the panels move along guides. It is also possible to use several canvases in the design.

Making a door with your own hands

Iron door with your own hands it can be completely within everyone’s power. Of course, its manufacture is a very labor-intensive process, but if you have the necessary knowledge and skills, you can make a structure good quality in a short period of time. There are both simple and more complex designs. The lineup metal entrance doors were replenished with sliding doors. This is a real revolution, since previously sliding entrance doors simply did not exist.

This design is the first metal entrance door that slides along the opening and has the same specifications, as traditional entrance doors, and also has a beautiful appearance. But since in construction such input structures, then you can leave the topic of how to make sliding doors with your own hands and focus on the traditional version of the opening method. These are swing iron doors.

Structural diagram of a metal door

Before you start making a metal door, you need to prepare the doorway, dismantle the old door structure, thoroughly clean the walls. Next, you need to take measurements and make a drawing of the future iron system. It is necessary to prepare the materials and tools that will be needed during work. Required tools:

• drill;
• welding machine;
• measuring tool;
• screwdriver or set of screwdrivers;
• Bulgarian;
• table or trestles for assembling the door structure;
• clamps;
• building level.

Necessary materials:

• door hinges;
• anchor bolts;
• profile pipe 5x2.5 cm, 9 running meters (6 lm for the door frame and 3 lm for the stiffeners);
• polyurethane foam;
• metal paint;
• door fittings (locks, handles, etc.);
• steel sheet 1.5-2 cm thick (2x1 m);
• metal corner 3.2x3.2 m (6 linear meters for the door frame).

Diagram of a metal door

Do-it-yourself metal doors, work order.

1. Assembly door frame. Using the measurements taken, cut the profile pipe, taking into account the gaps between the profile and the wall, approximately 1.5-2 cm. Ends profile pipe cut at a 45° angle. Place the cut material on workplace. Having leveled it with a level, lay it out in the form of a box, then secure it with clamps. Start welding from diagonal cuts, while constantly monitoring the correct geometry of the entire structure. The seams should be sanded after welding. Weld steel strips to the box, with their help the box is attached to doorway. Drill holes in them.
2. Manufacturing of door panels. Take measurements along the inner walls of the completed box, subtract the gap of approximately 7-10 cm on each side and get the actual dimensions of the canvas frame. Using a grinder, prepare the material for the frame in the same way. Saw off the load-bearing corners to the specified size and place them in the internal cavity of the future door leaf. After correct placement Level the elements and weld the frame. You should now have a frame for the door leaf. Next, fix the steel sheet to the profile structure. It should extend beyond the frame by approximately 10 mm on each side. It is not worth making a continuous seam, as this can lead to deformation of the sheet. After the steel sheet and door frame are fixed and welded, place the stiffening ribs inside, weld with a grip after 5-7 cm. Determine and mark the locations for the peephole, lock, handle and hinges, then drill and clean.
3. Installation of hinges. This is an important and therefore quite complex process. Canopies must be positioned strictly along one axis. The lower elements of the hinges (with balls) are welded to the box, and the upper ones to the casing.
4. Grinding of all welding places, priming and painting of the product. Install the peephole and lock into the prepared cutouts. If necessary, cover the door leaf with selected materials.

The metal structure is ready. It is not so easy to make such a product. It takes a little perseverance and skill, and the result will exceed all expectations.

If you have a welding machine and at least some skills in working with it, it would simply be unreasonable to purchase a Chinese product that is not very durable. A do-it-yourself metal entrance door will become more reliable protection from burglary and bad weather. Let us describe in detail the process of its manufacture.

Required materials and tools

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Free instrument 50% success

Before you start making a metal structure, you should prepare the necessary materials and tools for the work.

We will need:

• yardstick
• carpenter's square for taking measurements;
• metal corner for the door frame and door frame; it can be replaced with a square pipe 40x40 mm; for the manufacture of the internal frame of the box and stiffeners, slightly smaller pipes of 40x20 mm are used
• metal sheets: you should not take material that is too thin; its thickness should be at least 1.5-2 mm
• welding machine
• grinder or wire brush for cleaning welds
• drill with drill bits
• metal anchors or pieces of reinforcement for attaching the structure to the wall
• screws, bolts
• wrench suitable size for tightening bolts
• screwdriver
• door hinges capable of supporting the weight of a door weighing over 100 kg
• rim lock
• plywood, MDF, lining or laminate for finishing

Taking measurements

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Welding a metal structure

Even when using standard drawings to assemble an iron door, you will need to take measurements. Perfectly even, symmetrical doorways simply doesn't exist. Therefore, it is necessary to be extremely careful when taking measurements.

One measurement will not be enough - you need to take measurements three times and then select the smallest number obtained. The door leaf should be measured at the top, bottom, and middle.

The height of the opening is determined in exactly the same way. If the old doors have not yet been removed, it is easier to measure them.

In most cases, the width of the canvas is a multiple of 10 cm - its width can be 70, 80 or 90 cm. Please note that the size of the future opening should be 1.5-2 cm smaller sizes the opening itself. The remaining cracks are subsequently filled with polyurethane foam. After all, it will be difficult to insert and perfectly align a door cut exactly to the size of the doorway.

Immediately determine which direction they will open. According to SNiP, entrance doors must necessarily open outward, so that in the event of an evacuation or transfer of a sick person, it can be opened without hindrance. In this case, it will also be possible to save useful space in the hallway.

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How to correctly measure the width of an opening

The opening side is selected taking into account comfort and convenience. Traditionally, doors are made right-handed so that upon entry they can be opened using right hand. But this option can be changed taking into account specific circumstances.

After all, the door should open so as to occupy a minimum of free space without creating interference. IN apartment buildings The location of adjacent doors is also taken into account.

Door frame

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So, we will describe in detail how to make an iron door yourself:

1 After cutting a metal corner or pipe to the specified dimensions, it must be folded onto flat surface or welding table from the obtained parts into a rectangle, once again double-checking its dimensions.

2 There is no need to cut 45° corners. The metal strips are simply joined end to end.

Metal strips are joined end to end

3 We weld the inner frame from the corner with the smaller shelves. The distance between it and the frame is 3-5 mm.

4 Stiffening ribs are welded from the same corner - sections that are inserted inside the frame.

5 Don’t forget to thoroughly clean all seams with a sander, special abrasive fiber, brush, or pickle them with a seam treatment agent. Otherwise, the smallest remnants of metal, and behind it the metal corner itself, will immediately begin to rust. It is more convenient to grind off large deposits with a grinder or a file.

6 A fairly common mistake made by novice welders is to immediately connect the frame parts cleanly, “tightly”. There is no need to do this under any circumstances - most likely, the frame will have to be trimmed. Therefore, first you just need to “grab” the metal corners, and then align the assembled door frame building level not only horizontally and vertically, but along the corners and both diagonals.

7 Check that all parts fit exactly at 90°. Final welding can only begin after alignment.

Frame with internal frame

8 The next step is drilling holes for anchors and attaching hinges. At the same stage, holes are prepared for the lock bolts.

9 To attach the sealing rubber and protect the frame from deflections, small metal plates are welded to it.

10 To insert the frame into the doorway, you can weld steel eyes to it or provide through mounting holes.

Finished door frame

Door leaf

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1. The height and width of its frame must match the size of the door frame minus 5 mm on each side for the door to move freely.
2. After cutting the sheets (this can be done with a grinder), we clean the edges from burrs with a file or grinder with emery.
3. Metal sheets are attached to the frame so that they protrude 10 mm at the top, bottom and side of the lock. The allowance on the hinge side is made slightly smaller - 3-5 mm.
4. After “grabbing” the sheets, we check the correctness of fastening, and then weld the seams completely. If the sheets do not move, we proceed to final welding. First, we “sew” them to the main frame, and then attach them to the intermediate stiffeners. There is no point in making continuous seams - it is enough to weld the sheets in small sections.
5. The cutout for inserting the lock must be provided before the sheathing.
6. At the same stage, you can attach a wood frame to the door leaf to secure the trim. To do this, holes are drilled in the metal in the right places.

Single sheet metal door design

Connecting the door leaf to the frame

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1. Just as with the previous assembly, the seams should first be “tightened” by welding. The final connection is made only after checking the correct installation.
2. We drill holes for inserting a key and, if necessary, a peephole.
3. To attach the hinges, you need to step back 20 cm from the bottom and top of the door.
4. Raise the door (it’s easier to do this together). We fasten the canopies in such a way that the lower elements (the pins are attached to them) are attached to the frame, and the upper ones, called counters, are attached to the door leaf.
5. All loops must be located strictly along the same axis. This is not easy to do - you will have to take measurements many times. Otherwise, if an error occurs, the door will warp.
6. It is better to hang a massive door not on 2, but 3 hinges.
7. Lubricate them immediately so that the door opens easily and does not creak.

Entrance metal structure

Even if the door will be upholstered or finished in the future decorative panels, it should be treated with an anti-corrosion compound or painted. For painting metal, it is better to use the so-called “hammer” enamel, made on an alkyd-styrene base.

Insulation

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Insulate an iron door welded from metal You can use polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool. When using polystyrene foam, sheets 4 cm thick are sufficient. Too much density of the material is not needed - after all, the load on it will be small. You will need to purchase 4 square sheets of 1 m wide.

When purchasing polyurethane foam, choose a composition with minimal expansion, otherwise the foam will simply squeeze out. We apply it around the perimeter of the frame, stepping back slightly from the edges. Next, polystyrene foam is laid. All seams between sheets, cracks between foam plastic and a metal corner should also be sealed with foam. It can be replaced with Moment glue or any other suitable adhesive composition.

Installation of insulation

At mineral wool or stone wool there is a significant disadvantage– these materials are capable of absorbing moisture. Steel door with this type of insulation it will quickly rust. For apartment buildings this is not critical - there is not so much moisture in the entrances. But here's how to insulate street door mineral wool is highly not recommended.

If in the future the door is finished with self-adhesive film, There is no need to cover the insulation with chipboard. Any irregularities will be immediately visible. Replace Furniture chipboard moisture resistant plywood. It is attached to the metal using self-tapping screws through pre-drilled holes.

Metal door covered with film, trimmed with molding

You can decorate a door covered with film with moldings - decorative strips made of metal or polymer materials, painted to resemble wood, stone, silver or gold.

Inserting a metal door into an opening

It is unrealistic to install a massive metal structure alone. You will need an assistant.

Removing the old door

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1. Before installing iron doors, the old door leaf should be removed from its hinges. To do this, place a crowbar under its bottom, lift the structure and remove it from its hinges. Some types of hinges have to be unscrewed. This must be done starting from the bottom.
2. On an old metal door, after dismantling the slopes, you need to find its attachment points. To do this, plaster is knocked down in the area of ​​the proposed anchors or reinforcement. All metal parts are cut off with a grinder, and then the old box is pulled out.
3. Regular wooden box easier to remove. It is enough to cut the side posts in the center, and then, using a crowbar, pry them out of the opening.
4. All loose pieces of brick and putty should be knocked down. The resulting voids are filled with new bricks and then covered cement mortar. Small potholes will be filled with foam in the future, so you can leave them alone for now.
5. Significant protrusions are knocked down with a hammer or cut off with a grinder.
6. Pay attention to the condition of the threshold. In old houses in these places they install wooden beam. If it is damaged, the beam needs to be replaced. You can check its safety with an awl. Insert it into the wood and try to loosen it. If this can be done easily, the timber has become unusable.

Removing the door frame

Door insert

1 It is more convenient to install it with the door leaf removed from its hinges.

2 The frame is installed on pads 2 cm high. With their help, the structure will be leveled. If no mistakes were made when welding the front door and all measurements were taken correctly, it should fit into the opening freely.

3 We check the horizontal and vertical position of the structure with a bubble or laser level. When checking vertically, you can use a plumb line - a weight suspended from the side.

4 After leveling, we wedge the door frame using wooden or special plastic wedges. They are located closer to the fastening points. There should be three of them on the sides, two on the top.

5 We check again with the level to see if we accidentally moved the frame to the side.

6 There are two ways to fasten metal doors. In the first case, the lugs should be pre-welded to the frame. If the walls are not thick enough, they make it in a box through holes, into which anchors or small pieces of reinforcement will be inserted.

Door fastening methods

7 To install anchors or reinforcement in the wall, you will need to prepare holes with a depth of 30 cm. The size of the drill must match the diameter of the fastener. You can mark the drilling depth on it using masking tape.

Installation of anchors

8 After inserting anchors or reinforcement, they are additionally driven in with a hammer. If you need to move the fastener slightly, insert a screwdriver between it and the wall, tapping it with a hammer.

9 Fastening begins from the hinge side. Then two fasteners are inserted from above, below and one from the side of the lock. The anchors should not be over-tightened - the door frame may need to be adjusted.

10 We check with a level to see if we have displaced it when driving in the fasteners.

11 We hang the door leaf. Let's check its progress. If there are distortions, cracks, or jammed locks, you will have to remove it and re-align the position of the box horizontally and vertically.

12 If the door leaf is installed correctly, it must be removed again and the anchors finally tightened. First, tighten the bolts from the hinge side, then from the lock side. The last ones are the bottom and the top.

13 After the final hanging of the web, its progress is checked again.

14 To create a reliable sound and heat insulating barrier, all gaps between the door frame and the wall are filled with foam. Its expansion coefficient should be minimal - it is easier to work with such a solution.

15 Excess foam should be removed immediately with a damp cloth. If you delay a little, after 5 minutes it will be problematic to erase it - the surface of the door will have to be scraped.

Entrance doors should not only be beautiful, but also durable, warm and reliable. Metal doors provide this combination of qualities. But not all of those on the market can boast of reliability - many of the inexpensive ones can literally be opened kitchen knife. Really beautiful and reliable steel doors are very expensive. If you have a welding machine and some welding skills, you can make an iron door with your own hands. Even taking into account the costs of purchasing materials, it will be 30-50% cheaper.

What is necessary

We will make an iron entrance door from a profile pipe and sheet metal. To work you will need a flat working surface, welding machine, drill, grinder, it’s nice to have something for measuring - a carpenter’s square, for example.

Standard metal doors. This is roughly what we will do

Materials you will need:

• profiled pipe 40*40 mm, 40*20 mm;
• a sheet of metal 2 mm thick, the size of a door leaf;
• metal hinges are powerful enough to support a weight of about 100 kg;

To “ennoble” the door you will need metal paint (preferably hammer enamel), wooden slats, insulation (foam or mineral wool), plywood, OSB or other similar material, plastic or any other finishing material, door peephole, lock.

We cook the doors

First we cook the door frame. We make it from a profiled pipe 40*40 mm. Cut pieces to size. If there is rust on the pipe, we clean it. We fold the clean blanks, set the corners, and grab them together.

After welding, we check the corners and measure the diagonals. If there is even the slightest deviation, we correct it (hitting the floor with an angle usually helps, the main thing is not to overdo it).

We weld the hinges. We retreat about 20 cm from the bottom and top, mark, cook, making sure that they are on the same straight line. It will be very useful here laser level, and if it’s not there, you have to measure the distances many times to set it accurately.

We weld everything, check the diagonals, try it on. If everything is fine, you can weld the crossbars to increase the rigidity of the door leaf. We make them from the remains of a 40*20 mm pipe.

We clean all welding areas, removing beads - everything should be even and smooth. You can grind off the excess with a file, but it’s faster with a corresponding disc on an angle grinder.

To prevent the frame from “bending” and to later have space for installing a rubber seal, we raise the frame by welding metal plates.

The frame inside the frame is set at the required level (we check with a level or level so that everything is in the same plane), and we weld the counter hinges.

On finished frame We lay down a sheet of metal and mark it. It should extend onto the door frame pipe by 3-10 mm. Only on the side of the hinges the overlap should be 3-5 mm, on the other sides it can be more. We place the sheet on the hinge side, mark the cutting line, and cut it using a grinder.

After cutting, we process burrs and other irregularities with a file until the edge is smooth. To speed up the process, you can use a grinder with an emery wheel. Then we lay out the sheet the way it should be and lightly grab the frame to the frame, the sheet also to the frame (not to the frame). The entire structure needs to be turned over, and it’s difficult to do it any other way.

We turn over the almost finished metal doors and weld the sheet along the perimeter of the frame, then to the intermediate stiffeners. There is no need to make continuous seams - there is no need for tightness; we weld in small sections at equal distances. At the same time, we make sure that the clean does not “lead.”

We cut off the welded frame from the door frame, turn the doors over and remove the welded sheet from the tacks. We clean the former welding areas. Now you can install the locks.

Insulation and finishing

Next we deal with insulation. Foam plastic 4 cm thick fits well into the welded frame of an iron door. We take it of low or medium density, since there will be no load on it. These metal doors took 4 sheets measuring 1*1 m.

We cut the PP to size, take polyurethane foam with weak expansion (if you take a regular one, the foam will displace). Stepping back about 1 cm from the edge, we apply it along the perimeter of the rectangle in which we place the foam, make a few more strips of foam in the middle, and lay insulation. We also pass through the remaining gaps between the PP and the pipe with foam.

You can also glue the insulation using a universal glue that is suitable for metal and foam, for example, “Moment”.

To save money, it was decided to use a sheet of oriented strand board available on the farm. The finishing is planned on a budget - self-adhesive film. As it turned out, this pair doesn’t go well together—the OSB putty took a lot of time. It would be much easier with plywood (moisture-resistant, furniture).

A sheet of OSB is laid on top of the metal doors that have already been made by hand on top of the insulation. It is secured around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. First, a hole is drilled for the self-tapping screw, then the fasteners are screwed in.

We drill mounting holes in the door frame - there are two of them on each segment. We paint the frame in suitable color(enamel in a can is taken). The painted frame must be taken outside somehow. IN drilled holes We insert the long mounting screws, grab them and drag it outside.

There is only one way out - putty. We take putty, spread it, wait until it dries, and sand it. Then again - a layer of putty, sanding again. So - until the result is normal.

On the second side we also attach OSB, but it’s already puttied and sanded in advance - it’s easier. We cut out holes for the eye-handles and try everything on. Next we start gluing the film. In our stores, the widest one available is 90 cm, the doors are clearly wider. Therefore, it was decided to make a finish with imitation paneling, for which rubber self-adhesive furniture molding was purchased.

The film will be pasted “figuratively”

We find the center on the door, put 45 cm on both sides, and outline a strip. The central strip of film will be glued here. We wet the surface with water (spray from a spray bottle), carefully, without bubbles, glue the film.

We cut off the missing pieces and glue them on too. We close the joints of the canvases with molding.

All that remains is to install the hand-made metal doors in place. They are installed at the entrance from the covered veranda to the house.

The doors look good. They turned out very heavy, can’t compare with store-bought ones. Most of the time was spent on finishing. If you choose another option, it will be much faster.

Video on the topic

You can weld steel doors from corners. One of the options is in the next video.

Time forces you to save. At the same time, increased demands are placed on home security. Metal doors are an invariable attribute of every city apartment. An alternative to them in terms of reliability is only entrance doors made of solid wood, but they are incredibly expensive and themselves provoke an attacker to break in. Nice door made of metal and installation are also expensive. An alternative is a do-it-yourself metal door.

Of course, a homemade door cannot be a full-fledged analogue of a factory one: in artisanal conditions it is impossible to comply with the manufacturing technology. But opening a metal door is quite difficult, and it will produce the necessary psychological effect.

Drawings “Do it yourself metal door”:

Manufacturing Features

Attention: when measuring an opening, you must proceed from its real perimeter, i.e. Remove all paint and plaster from concrete slopes.

To make metal doors with your own hands you need:

1. Measure the opening.

2. When calculating the dimensions of the box, you need to lay two centimeters on all sides for the installation gaps.

Video “Making fireproof metal doors with your own hands”:

3. A steel corner is suitable for making a box. The recommended width of the shelves is 5 by 2.5 centimeters. The corner needs to be cut into pieces according to the size of the future box.

4. Lay out the workpieces on a flat surface in a rectangle. Control measurement - along the diagonals: they must be the same length.

Video “How to make steel doors with your own hands”:

5. Weld the door yourself or ask a professional.

6. The canvas frame should be made two centimeters smaller than the box in height and one and a half centimeters in width. For the frame, you can use a corner 4 by 2.5 cm. Weld in the same way as a box.

Video “Making custom metal doors”:

7. Cut a hole for a lock in one of the racks.

8. Weld a loop profile to another rack.

9. Spot weld a steel sheet to the frame with a thickness of at least one and a half millimeters. The sheet should overlap the frame by a centimeter (from the lock side - by one and a half).

Video " Self-production doors":

11. Weld the sheet.

12. For hinges, a steel rod 2 centimeters thick is suitable. Place bearing balls into the hinge blanks.

13. Mark on the canvas and box the places where the hinges and their mating parts are attached. Weld the hinges.

14. Clear welds, paint the canvas with protective enamel or powder paint.

16. The inside of the door can be sheathed MDF panels.

The metal front door is ready with your own hands. All that's left is the installation.

Installation methods

Attention: often if you install a factory door yourself, you lose the warranty on it.

First way mounting the door leaf into the opening - using mounting plates (if you made the iron entrance door yourself, you can weld them in advance).

1. Three plates (eyes) are installed on each rack. When installing the box, the plates must be adjacent to the wall from the inside (so that they cannot be cut off).

2. Place the box in the opening and measure it vertically. There should be a gap of about two centimeters between the box and the opening.

3. Holes for fastening are drilled through the holes in the plates and anchor bolts are inserted.

4. Foam the installation gaps. Once the foam has hardened, the excess is cut off.

5. Hang the canvas on the hinges.

6. They install the best locks for metal doors.

7. Close the gaps with platbands. If the walls of the opening are wide, they are covered with MDF panels.

Second way: if the walls of the opening are wide and the box is recessed inside.

1. Place the box in the opening and align it vertically. The gaps between the box and the walls are from half a centimeter to a centimeter.

2. Through the mounting holes in the box, drill holes for fastening in the wall of the opening (depth - 10-15 centimeters).

3. Insert anchors and tighten.

Third way: concreting the box.

In this case, a hollow box is used, the inside of which is filled with concrete. Measure the vertical position of the box, fix the box to the wall with anchors and leave until the solution has completely set.

2. Before hanging the canvas, the hinges need to be lubricated. When adjusting the hinges, loosen the fasteners on them.

Today, not only city residents, but also the bulk of country property owners as entrance doors prefer metal constructions. In theory, they are much stronger, more reliable and durable than their wooden or plastic counterparts. But in fact, many solid-looking metal doors are made from budget segment can be opened with a can opener, and a crowbar for them is a universal key. Not everyone can afford to install a massive, expensive structure, and the high cost is not a guarantee of appropriate quality. Therefore, craftsmen who have welding skills and the appropriate tool base prefer to make such doors themselves. In this situation, you can be confident in the strength of the frame, and in decent noise absorption and thermal insulation parameters, and appearance give in the general style. FORUMHOUSE users have also mastered the process and are sharing the results. We study their experience and weld a metal door.

Introductory

IN standard version a metal door consists of a frame, leaf, hinges and mounting elements (plates, eyes, pins). You cannot do without certain costs for materials and components, but a self-made door will cost much less than a purchased one. The exact list of consumables depends on the design, dimensions and purpose - if for a utility unit a simple frame with lining and a latch is sufficient, then to enter the house the door must be multi-layered, with effective locking fittings and decorative cladding. In the second case, an approximate set of what is needed looks like this:

• Metal corner (from 5 mm) or profile - for the box;
• Metal corner or profile pipe - for the frame, stiffeners;
• Sheet of metal - for power sheathing ( optimal thickness 2-3 mm).
• Thermal insulation material(mineral wool, polystyrene foam, EPS or PSB);
• Components – hinges (preferably with bearings), seal, peephole, lock/locks, handle, etc.;
• Finishing – wood, forging, plastic (for inside various panels or laminate).

One of the most important stages– measurements; if you make a mistake, installing the door in the future will be significantly more complicated, so you should adhere to certain recommendations:

• All measurements are taken not from the finishing layer, but from the rough wall;
• There should be a groove between the frame and the opening, the standard one is 2 cm (for alignment and installation seam);
• The gap between the box and the canvas on the hinge side is 3 mm, on the lock side – 5 mm.

Having a working drawing with dimensions or at least a sketch will be a good help; not everyone’s imagination is developed enough to imagine the end result in their mind. Fortunately, there are plenty of quite workable drawings on the Internet, although drawing and drawing are also difficult.

But best helper– experience that the participants of our portal generously share.

dronduletus User FORUMHOUSE

I welded simple doors for installation at the dacha; I’m not a pro, the door is my third welding experience (after grilles), so maybe I did something wrong, there are some mistakes.

A 20x40 mm profile pipe was used for the frame, a metal sheet 3 mm thick, insulator – mineral wool, finishing – MDF.

Since it is necessary to cook the frame on a hard, flat surface, and the craftsman did not have a suitable cooking table, he used beams placed in the same plane. He also used clamps to maintain the geometry of the product; some of them slightly “grab” the elements to the cooking table during the welding process. dronduletus I made the door in several stages.

I cut the pipe to size, did not observe the 45⁰ angles, since the welding was carried out end-to-end, assembled the frame, beat off the diagonal, grabbed it, checked it, and secured it with clamps. I welded the frame and welded the stiffeners.

The sheet for the sheathing was cut taking into account allowances for overlap along the entire perimeter (1.5 cm), and secured to the frame with clamps. I first welded it from the inside of the frame - from the middle to the edge, using clamps (about 2 cm in increments of 15-20 cm). To make the sheet less flexible, cook it diagonally - opposite sides in different directions. Afterwards, I welded the external seams in the same way, cleaned them with a grinder, and welded them along the stiffening ribs in the same order. It was possible to get by with just one rib, but the sheet turned out to be curved. Next, I welded the “pocket” for the lock - I cut a groove in the end, and scalded it around the perimeter with profile scraps.

I made the box from a 40x40 mm corner, used a 100x50 mm channel for the threshold, and when cutting the segments I added gaps not only for the hinges and the lock, but also up and down (4 mm each). As a protection against those who like to profit from other people's goods, I welded additional plates/plugs over the place where the crossbar will fit the full width (on both sides). I welded metal strips to attach the box to the wall (two on top and three on the sides). It protected not only from knocking out the bolt, but also from removing the door from its hinges.

dronduletus

I welded pieces of corner 8 cm wide inside the door, on the back side of the frame, lifting it 8 mm from it - these are anti-removal crabs.

I welded the canopies in a horizontal position - placing the canvas in a box and placing a 2 mm thick steel plate between the canopy and the canvas, so that the seal could be glued on afterwards and avoid friction. I welded the canopies at a distance of 25 cm from the edge of the canvas to the center of each canopy, having previously checked the level and secured with clamps.

Since the walls are old and the condition of the brick leaves much to be desired, I abandoned conventional anchors and used pins only to fix the threshold (channel). The frame was secured with studs 25 cm long (diameter 12 mm) and chemical anchors. After installing the frame, I hung the door and drilled holes for the bolt. I laid insulation in the door cavity, covered everything with MDF panels, and painted it.

Another portal participant did not photograph the process, but his observations will be useful to anyone who is planning to start making a door.

outsider User FORUMHOUSE

I also welded the doors; I didn’t take any photos during the process, but I’ll tell you the details. I did this with my father-in-law, they welded a bunch of these doors as a sub at the factory.

DIY metal door, life hacks and conclusions:

• It is better to take hot-rolled iron for cladding; cold-rolled iron has tight geometry and right angles;
• To weld the hinge plate to the box with a clamp, you need to hold it lightly and immediately release it. When the seam cools, the plate will bend with the required gap. All loops are scalded after fixation;

• If you do special device(as in the figure), pressing the sheet to the corner when welding will avoid “bubbles”;

• To prevent the door leaf from touching the frame during operation, the hinges are welded so that the hinge axis is on the edge of the sheet;

Intermediate draft result in the photo.

Master81 welded two metal doors - double-leaf and single (255x110 mm and 210x0.72 mm), and, looking at his creation, it is clear that he is “on the short end” with metal.

The box was welded from a corner five millimeters thick, six is ​​possible, but four is undesirable, the frame is made of a 40x20 mm profile pipe. The manufacture of the structure did not cause any difficulties.

Master81 User FORUMHOUSE

I measured the doorway, minus a centimeter from the width and length, cut the corner straight with a grinder, first assembled the frame, then the frame for the door.

Another one of our craftsmen, FORUMHOUSE member from Moscow with nickname oss, has already made the sixth metal door, if you count Garage Doors. The canvas is three millimeters thick, the frame is made of a 50x40x3 mm profile pipe, like most, but he approached the issue of safety thoroughly. Armor lining, internal lining, lever lock with four crossbars, a protective curtain in the well. These improvements have increased the cost of the product, but peace of mind is more valuable. No photo oss compensates with an optimized assembly process and useful tips.

oss User FORUMHOUSE

Before this I made doors in different ways, including first tying, and then tacking and assembling the frame. The sequence chosen this time seems more optimistic.

The optimized version looks like this:

• I started with the front vertical profile, made a frame, secured the lock in the frame, checked how it worked;
• I made a rear vertical profile, immediately welded the anti-pullers (behind the hinges);
• I assembled the entire frame from profiles using tacks;
• I cut out the trim along the frame (with an overlap of 20 mm);
• “I baited” the sheet, scalded it with oven mitts in increments of 150 mm;
• In the racks of the box (trimming) I cut out grooves for the crossbars and anti-removals;
• I welded a box with gaps (3 and 5 mm);
• Welded the hinges.

ABOUT ss advises to insert one combined door lock instead of two different types.

In a forum thread dedicated to, the opinion was expressed that the costs of homemade products would be significant, and the savings would not be so significant that the game would be worth the trouble. However, for skilled hands, the manufacturing process is quite feasible, and the ability to choose decent materials, and not guess what’s inside the purchased structure, is an important factor. Therefore, while some are talking about feasibility, others are doing and sharing real experience to make things easier for beginners.

How to save on entrance fees wooden doors, you can find out from the article - also on our portal. In the video - an overview of popular new doors from the famous exhibition.