Make metal doors with glass yourself. Technology for manufacturing a metal door according to a drawing

Long gone are the days when most apartments had light wooden entrance doors. Today, to better protect property, homeowners purchase an iron door. To do this, they go to stores where they buy samples, mostly made in China. Often, mediocre products are hidden under external effectiveness.

Diagram of a metal door.

The quality of these metal products causes criticism, since the thickness of the metal and the rigidity of the structure do not meet the requirements for them. An iron door, made with your own hands from rolled steel sheets and profile pipes, will the best option, if you know how to handle a welding machine, plumbing tools and have free time.

Preparing for work

Making a door with your own hands is much easier if you organize the process correctly. It consists of several stages:

1. Measuring the doorway.
2. Preparation of tools and selection of materials necessary for work.
3. Preparation of the opening and accurate measurements.
4. Making boxes and canvas.
5. Installation of the structure in the doorway.
6. Door insulation.
7. Final finishing of the door and opening.

To avoid unnecessary costs for the purchase of blanks, it is necessary to carry out preliminary measurements of the entrance opening. Based on them, the following are purchased:

Tools for making a metal door.

• metal sheet 2 mm thick;
• profiled pipes 5x2.5 cm for making frames and door frames;
• 2 ball loops with a cross-section of at least 2 cm;
• insulation (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene);
• plywood, OSB boards for cladding;
• anchor screws (bolts);
• self-tapping screws;
• glue;
• polyurethane foam;
• anti-corrosion compounds, primers, paint (you can buy “3 in 1” coatings).

To work you will need:

• tape measure, square, ruler, level;
• hammer drill, drill-driver;
• welding machine;
• sander;
• roller, brush or spray gun.

As soon as you have brought the materials, begin dismantling old door. You can dismantle it after making a new one if the measurements are not in doubt or you are unable to leave your home open. After removing the box and canvas using a hammer drill, remove the remnants of the old slopes. Get to solid ground. Take measurements of the opening again to more accurately determine the dimensions of the new door. When calculating the dimensions of the structure, keep in mind that it is easier to install it if the gaps between the frame and the surfaces of the opening are in the range of 1.5 to 2 cm.

How to make a door frame?

Scheme of a door frame made of iron.

To properly make an iron door with your own hands, start by making a frame. The corrugated pipe is cut into fragments of the required length, which are assembled into a box on flat surface. The ends of the pipes can be cut at an angle of 45 or 90°. This should be taken into account when marking. The square determines the rectangularity of the structure. After this, its elements are one by one welded. To avoid burning the metal, use electrodes with a cross section of 2-2.5 mm. Once you've finished pre-assembling the box, take a tape measure and make sure both diagonals are equal. If necessary, trim the frame and finally weld its elements to each other.

Drill holes in the pipes for anchors. You can weld hinges with holes for fastening to the box. They can be made from the same steel that will be used for the canvas. Remove scale from the welds, treat them and other surfaces with a grinder with a grinding wheel.

Manufacturing of door leaf

Now it's time to make the frame door leaf. When making blanks for it, calculate that the gaps between the frame and the box on each side should be 5 mm. The frame is assembled in the same way as the box. If you are absolutely confident in the accuracy of your eye and the fidelity of your hand, then you can weld the frame away from the box, but it is better to place the frame in it, lay strips of the same thickness between the structures and pre-weld its blanks. After this, the frame is removed for final welding. To strengthen it, 1-2 stiffening ribs are additionally welded, which will ensure easy installation of thermal insulation and fastening of the cladding.

Frame diagram iron door.

As long as the frame is not covered with steel sheet, it is easier to prepare it for installing the locks. Make a cutout in the pipe for the lock. Try to fit the lock into the groove as tightly as possible. Install the lock, assemble the box and frame, maintaining the gaps, mark the place for the holes for the bolts. You'll have to remove the frame again to make them. After this, all surfaces are cleaned. The lock can be removed for now.

The steel sheet should be slightly larger than the frame. On each side, the sheathing should protrude beyond its limits by 10 mm. Place the frame on the cut sheet and weld the sheet to it. You should not make a continuous seam, as this will lead to deformation and burning of the surface. Make tacks every 5-7 cm. Place the frame on the door leaf. Install spacer strips and lightly weld both structures together. Determine the location for the hole for the key and the door peephole. Drill them out, sand them down and flip the door over to install the awnings.

Hanging hinges and installing the box

They attach quite simply. The main thing is that the canopies are located on the same axis. Their lower elements (with balls) are welded to the box, and the upper ones to the casing. The thickness of the door leaf steel and hinged hinges varies. This difference should be taken into account when choosing a welding mode to prevent overheating and burning of the steel sheet. In any case, the seams of the joints after the first tack are applied in several layers. After the welding is completed, the grinder with the grinding wheel comes into play again.

Diagram of a metal door hinge.

You can install a steel door into an opening yourself, but it is better to invite an assistant. First, remove the canvas from the awnings. Using a level, install the frame into the doorway. Secure it with wedges. Determine where the holes for the fasteners will be located in the walls and lightly drill them. Remove the frame and drill the holes to the desired depth. Insert the anchor sleeves into them. Place the frame in place and secure it with anchors. Now you can fill the awnings with lithol so that the door opens easily and without squeaking for many years. Treat all metal structures with an anti-corrosion compound and coat with a primer.

Laying thermal insulation and cladding

Door insulation is made with polystyrene foam boards or mineral wool. Hang the fabric on the hinges, insert the lock and glue the insulation to the sheathing. Its thickness should not exceed 50 mm. Try to pack the insulation into the frame as tightly as possible and seal any possible gaps. Glue insulating tape around the perimeter of the door leaf, which will provide additional protection for the apartment from cold air entering it.

Now you can cover the heat insulator with cladding. You can use tongue and groove boards, plywood, OSB or MDF boards for it. Before installing the facing covering, holes are made in it for the peephole and the key. Plywood, boards and back MDF surface treated with impregnations. The cladding is attached to the frame and its stiffeners with self-tapping screws. All metal surfaces are painted in 2 layers. To finish the facing coating (depending on its material), you can use stain, varnish, paint, etc. Handles, chains, a peephole and other fittings are installed on the door.

To complete the installation of an iron door, the space between the frame and the wall must be filled with foam. It is better to make slopes at the entrance from cement-sand mortar. After plastering them, you can use any finishing material you like.

The iron door is ready.

Made from 2mm thick profile pipes, it was not as heavy as if it had been made from steel angles.

Nevertheless, its strength and reliability are beyond doubt.

Do you need a normal iron door, but prices on the market are “biting”? There is an option to build it yourself. Let's look together at how to make a metal door with your own hands, starting with preparing tools, purchasing material and sketching a sketch, and ending with insulation and finishing.

Making an iron door yourself is quite possible.

Making a metal door with your own hands is quite a realistic task for an amateur, but there is one caveat: you must be able to work fluently with an angle grinder and have at least basic knowledge of a welding machine. But before you make the door itself, you need to prepare the tools and material.

Tool selection

• Bulgarian;
• Welding machine;
• Screwdriver or set of screwdrivers;
• Electric drill with impact function or hammer drill;
• Round “bastard” file;
• Hammer;
• Roulette;
• Kern;
• Level (preferably 1.5 m);
• Square.

Home handyman's tool.

In addition, you will need a variety of accessories for power tools. This refers to discs for an angle grinder for metal, a cord brush for an angle grinder, drill bits for a drill, emery and other small things without which it is impossible to make a metal door with your own hands.

Purchasing material for making a metal door

For iron doors you need to buy:

• Metal sheet with a thickness of 1.5 to 3 mm;
• Profiled pipe 40x20 mm – minimum 7 – 8 m;
• Corner 50x50 mm - about 7 m;
• Strip 40x4 mm – 2 m;
• Ordinary male-female or articulated hinges – 2 pcs.

If you do not have much experience in welding work, then it is better to take a thicker sheet for entrance doors, at least 2 mm, and preferably 3 mm. Welding metal doors it's not particularly difficult, but thin sheet very easy to burn through.

Material for metal doors

You will also need a good, level table or some kind of trestle; making a metal door on the ground is very difficult, and for a novice craftsman it is not at all realistic.

Making a sketch

Professional drawings for standard iron doors can now be found, but the problem is that these documents were made according to GOST 31173-2003, that is, 2200x900 mm or 2200x1200 mm (for wide openings).

Professional drawing for a door welded from metal

The entrance metal door in an apartment or private house does not always correspond to the standard, so it is better to draw up a sketch. Otherwise, on a non-standard opening you will have to either cut out part of the slope or somehow seal the gap next to the door.

An example of a sketch for a non-standard iron door.

Since we are making an iron door with our own hands, then at the stage of creating a sketch we need to take into account some tolerances; they are shown in the example below:

• The starting dimensions of the doorway are 216x90 cm;
• It is impossible to make a frame (lutka) close to the walls, since there will be nowhere to pour the mounting foam, so along the top edge we leave 10 mm for the foam, plus 5 mm for the thickness of the corner;
• At the bottom we make a small threshold, respectively, 25 mm will be cut off from the corner, leaving a total of 212 cm for the height of the frame along the inner perimeter;
• On the sides we also leave 10 mm for foam, plus 10 mm is the thickness of the metal in 2 corners, for a total width of the internal opening of 87 cm;
• The steel door itself, or rather the frame under it, cannot be made close to the door; if the house starts to “walk” and the door moves a little, the door will jam. Therefore, we leave a gap of 5 mm along the outer perimeter, respectively, it turns out 211x86 cm;
• We take a larger sheet (90x215 cm), since it will overlap part of the loot.

The tools have been prepared, the material has been purchased, a sketch has been made, now you can start building iron doors with your own hands.

Seven stages of steel door assembly

You can make metal doors with your own hands only from a corner or only from a profiled pipe, but the mixed version turns out to be more reliable and practical. It is better to weld the outer frame (frame) from a 50x50 mm corner, and the frame for the door leaf from a 40x20 mm profiled pipe.

Stage No. 1. We cook the loot

First of all, we cut off the corners according to the diagram and fix them on the work table or sawhorses with clamps. Here it is important that the lower plane is flat and the corners meet at 90º. We check the rectangle of the box by its diagonals, if they are the same, then the corners will be right.

Fixing the frame with clamps.

You shouldn’t scald the corners right away, they can lead, first we grab them at several points and measure the diagonals again until everything is boiled, you can still adjust minor inaccuracies.

Spot tack.

When scalding corners, first apply everything vertical seams, and then we move on to horizontal ones, so the metal will overheat less. We will cut out the excess part of the corner later.

Welding corners.

Now we turn the frame over and check the plane with a long level or any even standard. There should be no distortions or bends.

Checking the plane of the frame.

We boil the external joints and immediately sand these seams with a grinder.

Welding external seams.

As shown in the photo above, we still have a piece of the corner left uncut from the inside; it needs to be removed, as it will interfere with installation. To do this, turn the frame over again and cut out the excess parts with a grinder. The loot is ready, now you can move on to the frame for the iron door.

Cut out the excess parts.

Stage No. 2. Frame for the door leaf

When cutting profiled pipes for the frame of a door leaf, first measure out all the long parts, and then cut out the short ones from the rest. Otherwise, you may not guess and then, big vertical racks will have to be welded from pieces.

It is better to make the slot for the lock right away. To do this, measure 1 m from the bottom of the post and make 2 vertical cuts according to the dimensions of the lock, and cut this strip diagonally in the middle. To make the pieces easier to break out, we make small cuts on them; the arrows in the photo point to these cuts.

Initial fitting of the lock.

To ensure that the frame of the door leaf fits neatly into place, we fix the profiled pipes on the inside of the door with clamps. Don’t forget: there should be a gap of 5 mm between the profiled pipe and the corner; to do this, insert spacers. You can use the same corner trims as spacers.

Fixing the profiled pipe on the frame.

It's important here how to put profiled pipes, any such pipe has a welded seam, so this seam should “look” inside the canvas.

Welding seam of a profiled pipe.

When constructing a frame for a door leaf, it is no longer necessary to check the diagonals, since we are “attached” to the outer frame. The corners are welded by analogy with the loot, that is, we grab it at several points, and then weld the joints from the center to the edges.

Welding door frame corners.

Here, while the frame is in the sump, we weld the transverse stiffeners; they are made from a profiled pipe.

Fastening of stiffeners.

Now we remove the clamps, remove the outer frame and weld the ends of the joints in the corners, after which we sand all the seams. Be careful, the metal is thin and burns easily.

It is necessary to grind the weld seams on the outside.

Always control where your top, bottom, hinges and lock are. At this stage it is very easy to get confused and then it will be difficult to correct the situation without losses.

Stage No. 3. Attaching the sheet

First we need to cut the sheet to size. From the frame of the door leaf to the edge of the sheet we leave 20 mm (5 mm for the gap, plus 15 mm for the overlap of the slit). To cut the sheet exactly according to the markings, you can use a profiled pipe; simply secure it with clamps and cut along the edge with a grinder.

Standard for cutting sheets with a grinder.

We place the door frame on the cut sheet, check that the overlap is clearly observed everywhere, and spot weld the profiled pipes to the sheet (steps of about 100 - 150 mm). To prevent the frame from moving during welding, it can be secured with clamps.

You grab the frame not along the perimeter, but diagonally. That is: we welded one point, then moved to the opposite one, and so on until everything was scalded. Otherwise, the design may fail.

Spot welding of door leaf.

Stage No. 4. How to weld hinges

Illustrations	Recommendations
	We buy ordinary awnings, the male-male type (male with a pin). Canopies must be lubricated immediately before installation.
	There should be 20 - 25 cm from the bark cloth to the canopies, both above and below.
	The canopy should be slightly raised so that the sheet does not cling to the frame when opening.
	The canopy is positioned so that when viewed from above, there is a gap of 1 - 2 mm between it and the sheet.
	Before how to cook structure, place a spacer (a piece of the same sheet) under the sheet. The gap is needed for the rubber seal.
	We scald the awnings.
	To hold the canopy more securely, you can weld a metal plate with an overlap onto the canvas frame, but this is more of a recommendation than a rule.

Stage No. 5. We cut into the lock

The lock has already been inserted into the door frame, now you need to try it on and mark the places of the cuts in the door.

Marking for holes in the corner.

We drill holes for the keyhole with a large drill, and then bring it to the right size a round bastard file.

Hole for keyhole.

The holes in the corner for the lock itself are cut out with a grinder and also processed with a file. It is advisable to cover the lock bolts from the inside with a metal casing; it can be made from a profiled pipe or angle, the casing must be welded.

Cover for protecting the lock bolts.

Now all that remains is to try on the overlay on done earlier holes and you can proceed to facing work.

Installation of the lock escutcheon.

Stage No. 6. Cladding and insulation

It is cheaper and best to insulate iron doors with foam plastic; as a rule, PSB-S-25 slabs with a thickness of 40 mm are used. The slab is cut out slightly smaller than the opening, and the gap is then filled with foam.

Insulation of entrance doors with foam plastic.

There is no need to insulate entrance doors with mineral wool. The fact is that any cotton wool is afraid of moisture and shrinks after getting wet, so after a couple of years such insulation will stop working.

The inside of the structure can be covered with any board you like, from OSB to laminated MDF.

Laminated MDF door trims.

You can also read a more detailed article on insulating metal doors -.

The outer front of the doors can also be finished with a laminated board, but it will be easier and cheaper to paint the metal with hammer paint; this is done like this:

1. All metal is cleaned with a cord brush (it is convenient to use a cord attachment on an angle grinder);
2. The structure is degreased with acetone or gasoline;
3. The metal is coated with primer for the previously selected hammer paint;
4. Apply 2-3 layers of paint with a brush, roller or spray gun.

Painting iron doors with hammer paint.

Stage No. 7. Installation of metal doors

To secure the iron doors, you must first weld unique shanks made from a 40x4 mm strip around the perimeter of the door.

Shanks for fastening iron doors.

The structure is installed in the following sequence:

1. Insert the loot into the doorway;
2. Use a hammer drill to drill blind holes in the slopes through shanks;
3. Next, you can hammer in metal crutches or fix the structure with anchor bolts;
4. Hang the door leaf;
5. Blow out the gaps around the perimeter of the tray with polyurethane foam;
6. The door is installed, now all that remains is to cut off the excess dried foam and arrange the slopes.

This is how you install an iron door with your own hands.

Conclusion

As you can see in home “production”, without professional schemes and expensive equipment, I assembled a good iron door with my own hands and it cost about half as much as the factory equivalent.

WITH good decor a homemade door will look no worse than a factory one.

Sections of the article:

Reliable metal doors are used virtually everywhere. They are installed not only in apartments multi-storey buildings, but also in private households, bathhouses, and various outbuildings. In addition to purchased ready-made options, some people prefer to create a homemade design, for which a drawing of a metal door will be a good help.

It is not always possible to purchase a steel door leaf and door block of proper quality. The first problem is the pricing policy of modern construction market. The second problem is that sometimes the doorway is very specific and doors for it are made only on an individual order.

There is a simple way out of this situation. If there are practically no suitable products on sale, you can always make them yourself. The metal door has simple design, which is quite possible to make with your own hands. There are various drawings and much more for this. Homemade design will have the required level of quality, and the amount spent on materials will not be very high. All work on the manufacture of entrance doors is divided into several simple stages.

Necessary materials, tools

The most expensive thing you will need is metal. All other components and materials will not be too expensive, of course, excluding decorative finishes. If you roughly estimate the amount for all expenses, then you will need no more than 100-150 dollars. At this price it is impossible to purchase even dubious Chinese products.

As for the materials needed for work, there are few of them. Need to purchase profile pipe– suitable with a cross-section of 20×40 mm. The pipe should be purchased in quantities of 20 linear meters– this volume is quite enough to produce a block of standard sizes (about 1 m wide and 2 m long). It is not difficult to calculate the amount of material for other dimensions. In case of any incomprehensible situations, it is worth looking at the sketch - today you can find a lot of drawings of metal doors and use them for assembly.

Sheet metal is also required. Its thickness must be at least 2.5 mm. dimensions- to the size of the future door, or rather the opening.

You should also prepare the hinges; you should choose models that are equipped with a bearing. These components are purchased in quantities of three. The canvas will be quite heavy, so three loops are the most reliable option.

In addition, additional fittings, thermal insulation, and materials for decorative finishing are required. Don't forget about Consumables– these are circles for power tools, welding electrodes, drills, jigsaw consumables.

The tools you should prepare are a welding machine, a welding table, a grinder, an electric drill, and a jigsaw.

Preparation and measurements

So, standard size the doorway in most apartments is 2000x800 or 2000x900 mm. If the existing opening is smaller or larger, then the canvas can be made to a special size. When taking measurements, you should make sure that it is the wall that is being measured, and not concrete or plaster.

If the height of the box is slightly more than 2000 mm, then it is necessary to provide an additional frame on top, or in the side of the opening if its width is more than 900 mm. In addition, you should remember about a gap of several tens of millimeters on each side of the box. This gap is necessary for blowing in seams.

If the opening width is more than 1500 mm, then experts recommend making a collapsible box rather than a solid one. In cottages, in addition to the door leaf, two or more modules with glass are installed in wide openings, which make the structure more reliable and durable and perform a decorative function.

Click to open in full size.

During the preparation process, it is also worth starting to develop a drawing of a metal door. If the door leaf is unique and exclusive, then the drawing is made with your own hands. If the opening is standard, but door design will represent a standard solution, then standard drawings can also be used.

Making a classic metal door

Classic steel doors are a structure made of canvas, frames, door hinges, as well as mounting plates.

Door frame assembly

So, the first thing you need to do is assemble the box or block. To do this, a prepared profile pipe is cut according to the parameters obtained during measurements. The cutting is done at an angle of 45 degrees. The cutting accuracy can be checked by connecting two pieces, and then checking the resulting structure with a corner.

There is another way to produce a box. In this version, the frame is assembled from metal profile welding method. The result should be rectangular design. During the assembly process, it is very important to control the accuracy of the angles, as well as measure the diagonals - this is done to eliminate the risk of block distortions.

Assembling the door frame

At this step, blanks for the future frame are made. A metal corner is suitable for these purposes. It is necessary to maintain a gap between the door frame and the frame on the lock side - it is approximately 5 mm. On other sides it will be enough if the gap is 3 mm. These are not exact numbers - in different drawings of metal doors this size may be slightly different. To make it more clear, strips of metal of the required thickness are used to measure and control these gaps.

Next, the profile is marked and cut. It is placed inside the resulting box. Then the geometric characteristics of the structure are checked along the diagonals. If everything is correct, then a groove or slot is made on one side of the profile for mounting the lock. After this, the corners of the frame can be tacked by welding; the frames around the perimeter are also tacked at several points.

At this step, you can already weld metal strips to the door frame, which will serve as clamps for finishing materials.

Manufacturing of door leaf

Creating a canvas should begin with markings. It is worth taking into account the tolerances and overlaps of sheet metal on door frame 10-15 cm each. The overlap from the hinges is also taken into account. In various drawings of metal doors it is 5 mm.

The steel sheet according to the drawings and dimensions is cut using a grinder and welded to the finished frame. Stiffening ribs are welded inside the canvas. They must be installed horizontally. If the level of rigidity is insufficient, then their number can be increased.

Lock installation

The door is almost finished. To install the lock, make markings directly on the canvas. You can mark the holes for the holes with a regular marker. Then a hole is drilled along the marked marks, which then needs to be processed with a file. Next, holes are made for the fastening elements of the future lock. The holes are threaded, then the locking device is fixed with bolts. At the end, install a handle.

These are typical instructions and will fit most locks, but lock designs may vary, installation itself depends on the product.

Loops

Before welding these elements to the resulting structure - doors and block, it is necessary to lubricate them. Using a grinder, the places where the frame and the door block are connected are cut - these are the points that were previously tacked with a welding machine. The hinges are fixed from the inside.

Fasteners

To fasten the resulting structure into the opening, strips of metal are used. You need from 6 to 10 pieces. They are simply welded to the box. Then you will need to drill holes in them for the anchor bolts.

Insulation and finishing

The door is almost ready. Now all that remains is to insulate it. The thermal insulation option you choose is cut and placed inside the canvas. The insulation is placed between the stiffening ribs.

After this you can start practicing decorative finishing the inside of the door. Plywood, laminated panels, and any other material are suitable for these purposes.

Metal door with glazing and decorative elements

Often, such door models are installed in private homes or cottages. The window performs several functions - through it you can see who has arrived. Also, thanks to the glass, the hallway will be much brighter. Decorative elements will decorate the canvas and give it an exclusive appearance.

The window in the door must be made while the sheet steel is being cut. When making it, you can use the drawing of a metal door located at the beginning of our article. Along the perimeter of a rectangular or any other shaped hole in steel sheet it is necessary to weld the fittings. The sizes should be determined in advance. All other stages of work are similar to the technology for manufacturing a classic door.

After the structure is painted, a double-glazed window is installed in the place intended for the window. To make the glass as reliable as possible, a forged decorative grille is often welded on the outside.

You can also equip the door block with various additional accessories. These can be closers, seals, eyes and much more. The main rule is that the fittings must be of high quality. Only then will it last for a long time long period time.

Homemade door compared to a factory one

The first disadvantage is the rationality of this decision. The cost of materials and fittings is a considerable amount, although the simplest factory door will cost 30% more, but you will save a lot of time and effort. Also, your welding skills are important. If you are not sufficiently qualified, there is a risk of marriage. In any case, factory welding will be much better.

But generally speaking, a homemade metal door is not a utopia, but a real reality for those who have welding skills and experience working with power tools.

Among other types of doors, metal ones stand out for their strength and reliability. They are installed at the entrance to the house or landing, where increased protection is needed. Using simple tools and equipment, each person can assemble a metal door in one day. This also requires certain materials and knowledge.

Is it possible to make metal doors with your own hands?

Reliable metal doors have long won the sympathy of consumers. They are used wherever necessary additional protection: in houses, garages, apartments, warehouses. According to the demand, the supply market has also grown, with a great variety of ready-made steel doors can be found on the pages of newspapers and Internet resources.

Present on the market various types metal doors

However, many craftsmen prefer home-made doors to purchased products. Their advantages include lower financial costs and independent choice designs and materials. These factors allow you to assemble a door of any shape, including non-standard options, and also give confidence in the quality of the finished product.

Thin steel on the front surface of finished metal doors is cut without much effort

Self-assembly of a metal door requires not only special equipment, but also certain skills. This is especially true for welding joints. To apply a seam of the required quality, you need skill and a certain dexterity. The cost compared to a factory door will be 30–35% lower, but the quality may be higher.

Metal door manufacturing technology

When making metal doors, the main emphasis is on reliability. This factor depends on:

• door leaf and frame designs;
• materials used;
• installation quality.

Reliability also implies the strength and durability of the doors. Additional devices- closers and electronic eyes - make the operation of the structure more comfortable.

Varieties of door hinges and locking devices allow you to choose necessary components depending on the specific situation

All these innovations are also used for self-made doors. First of all, when drawing up a project, it is important to think through in detail all the elements included in the future design and select necessary materials. It is necessary to take into account technological sequence, the procedure for assembling, installing and finishing the door block.

Drawings for making a metal door with your own hands

To create a working drawing, you need to take measurements doorway. The sketch is drawn on paper at the selected scale. Using a tape measure, the width, height and depth of the opening are measured.

Doorway parameters: W-width, H-height, T-depth

There is a certain standard for metal doors. It is undesirable to make the dimensions of the door leaf more than 200x90 cm. This is due to the fact that the weight of the structure increases and, accordingly, the requirements for the quality (or quantity) of loops increase. If the doorway is larger, it is more advisable to install an additional top or side block. The top block is often equipped with glass inserts for additional lighting. The side can be hinged or blind.

The drawing must reflect in detail design features doors

All these nuances are reflected in the drawing. The dimensions of the box are usually taken into account the installation gap, which allows you to align the structure in the horizontal axis. It is subsequently filled with foam. To adjust the door position and eliminate distortions, a gap of 2.5–3 cm is sufficient.

To evenly distribute the weight of the door leaf onto the frame, 2 to 4 hinges are used. Awnings can be internal or external structure. External loops are used more often. The distance from the edge of the leaf to the hinges at the top and bottom is 15–20 cm. If the door is heavy and there is a need for additional suspension, one or two auxiliary hinges are installed between the main hinges. The exact location of the canopies is noted on the drawing, taking into account their own dimensions.

The support ball inside the sleeve softens the working stroke of the hinges

Any door is equipped with stiffening ribs. They are metal corners or pipes with a tetrahedral cross-section, located along, across or diagonally to the canvas. When placing them, two factors are taken into account:

• location of the lock and door handle (for ease of installation, the stiffening ribs do not intersect with the location of the locks);
• a method of insulating a door (since the heat-insulating material is attached in the recesses between the ribs).

The insulation is located between the door stiffeners

The drawing needs to show the exterior decoration of the door and the structural components necessary for this. For example, if one of the sides is planned to be sheathed with clapboard, put inside the canvas wooden blocks, to which the cladding is subsequently attached. If the sash is coated with paint or laminated film, there is no need to install bars, but more attention is paid to the plane of the canvas. The surface is thoroughly polished, eliminating metal leaks that form during welding.

Equipment and materials for making metal doors with your own hands

After the working sketches are completed, you need to prepare tools and materials. Here is the main list of equipment:

1. Electric drill with a set of metal drills. The sharpening angle of the drill should be 110–130°, tool steel, high strength, hardened. It is convenient to use a core to make a hole.

   Using a core and a hammer, a metal drilling point is prepared

2. Screwdrivers or a screwdriver with a set of necessary attachments, including Phillips and flat slots.
3. Welding machine, preferably injector type. Electrodes with a rod thickness of at least 2 mm.

   Power welding machine must match the thickness of the door metal

4. Angle grinder (grinder) and cutting discs. You also need one scraping disc to remove metal deposits.
5. Vices and clamps for fixing structural elements during the assembly process. The solution of the working planes of the tool is selected based on the size of the workpieces.

   The clamp securely holds the workpiece while working with it

6. Metal files with fine structure.
7. Workbench or sawhorses.

   A mechanic's workbench simplifies and speeds up the assembly of a metal door

8. Tape measure, square, marker (or chalk) and other measuring tools.

   Having a variety of tools speeds up the assembly process

9. Hydraulic level or laser level.

As for materials, the set will vary depending on the door design. Here is the list for a standard product:

1. Steel (frontal) sheet measuring 1x2 m. Thickness from 1.5 to 3 mm. Cold rolled steel is preferable as its strength is higher.
2. Metal corner, 35x35 mm in size, 6 linear meters. Other options are possible depending on the dimensions and design of the door frame.

   The corner takes on the main load and does not allow the door leaf to deform

3. Profile pipe with a rectangular section 50x25 mm - 9 m. If the door is intended for utility room, use reinforcement that is welded to the canvas from the inside. At the same time, the pitch of the stiffening ribs is reduced, and the crossbars are placed more often.

   The size of the pipe must correspond to the thickness of the door leaf and insulation

4. Metal plates (thickness 2–3 mm and cross-section 400x40 mm) - 4 pcs. (for attaching the door frame to the walls of the opening).
5. Loops - from 2 to 4 pcs. Ball bearing supports are inserted into “advanced” models.

   Bearings facilitate and prolong the operation of hinges

6. Anchor bolts, diameter from 10 to 12 mm.
7. Polyurethane foam with a low coefficient of expansion, quick-setting.

   A special gun is used to direct foam into the gaps

8. Primer, anti-corrosion coating. Automotive primer has proven itself well.
9. Door furniture. Lock with escutcheons, handle, peephole, closer (the last two elements are optional). Locks are selected according to the functions of the door. Sometimes, to increase reliability, crossbar structures with three-sided fixation of the canvas are installed. Installing them is more difficult, but breaking such a door is much more difficult.

   The deadbolt lock secures the door leaf on three sides

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a metal door

It is advisable to adhere to the following sequence of work:

1. Metal corners are cut to specified sizes. The blanks are laid out on the workbench in a rectangle in the shape of the door frame. Control is carried out with a plumber's square and tape measure. All parts of the structure must be perpendicular to each other. The lengths of the diagonals can differ by no more than 1.5–2 mm. The permissible error in frame height is 2 mm. It is recommended to connect the corners to each other at an angle of 45 degrees.

   Plates are immediately welded to the frame, which will attach it to the wall.

2. The composite structure is welded. First, “potholders” are placed in all corners. Final measurements are being carried out. If all dimensions correspond to the working drawing, the box is finally welded. For convenience, clamps are used. Corner seams are processed with a grinder.

   Welding work should be carried out in a well-ventilated area or outdoors.

3. When the door frame is ready, the exact dimensions of the door leaf are measured (based not on the drawing, but on the specific dimensions of the frame). 10 mm is subtracted from all sides. To make the sash, a corner is cut, and a longitudinal hole is made at the location where the lock is installed. The grinding disc on the grinder is replaced with a cutting disc of the required thickness.
4. Inside the metal profile are placed wooden slats. With their help, future door finishing work is simplified.
5. In order to weld the hinges, the frame of the door leaf is inserted into the corners of the frame. The location of the canopies must be accurately measured and secured with clamps.

   Before fixing the hinges, you need to mount the frame of the door leaf

6. The remaining sash profiles are installed if the frame of the door leaf is congruent with the frame (minus technological gaps) and the hinges operate in the required mode.
7. A prepared metal sheet is welded onto the canvas frame. It is cut to size in such a way that there is 1 cm on each side of the flap, and 1.5 cm on the lock side. Before welding, fitting is carried out by placing the plate on the frame. If the calculated dimensions are met, the structure is turned over and the connections begin to be welded sequentially.

   The metal sheet is welded to the frame from the inside

8. First of all, part of the sheet is attached to the hinges (from the inside). Then the canvas is scalded around the entire perimeter.
9. The porch is being installed. To do this, a cover strip is attached to the inside of the sash with two seams.

   The narthex ensures the security of the door

10. On the inner plane of the canvas, stiffening ribs consisting of profile pipes are installed and secured.
11. Forging is carried out and the seams are cleaned of slag. The reliability of welded joints is checked. All irregularities need to be smoothed out. After this, the structure is coated with an anti-corrosion primer. Drying time is 24 hours.

    The seams are cleaned using an angle grinder and a file.

12. The lock and strike plate are installed, then door knob and other auxiliary fittings. When installing components, it is recommended to follow the instructions in the accompanying documents of the products.
13. Insulation, sound insulation, and decoration of the outer and inner surfaces of the door leaf are carried out.

A metal door is a means of securing your home, so it is reasonable to take precautions when making it. Grinder, hammer drill, welding - these useful tools if handled carelessly, they become dangerous to human health and life. The use of personal protective equipment - a respirator, a welder's mask, mittens, etc. - is a natural norm of work; it is unwise to forget about it. In addition, a fire extinguisher and a bucket of sand are required in the welding area.

Video: how to cook loops

Thermal insulation of a metal door

During the cold period, ice, drops of water or frost sometimes appear on metal doors. This indicates that the structure is freezing. Warm air indoors falls on metal surface and cools down sharply. As a result, condensation forms, which either drains or freezes and turns into ice. To prevent this from happening, the door leaf is insulated. Previously, they used synthetic winterizer or dermantin, but this did not bring effective results. Today the arsenal of insulation materials includes:

• Styrofoam;
• mineral and basalt wool;
• polyurethane.

Styrofoam

It is considered very good insulation, since it contains 98% air, “sealed” in plastic bubbles. The advantages include ease of installation, low price and absolute resistance to corrosion. Most industrially manufactured doors are equipped with foam plastic or its modification - penoplex. Except thermal insulation properties, the material has good sound absorption. Disadvantages include fusibility and release large quantity toxic gases during combustion and heating. Therefore, it is not recommended for installation directly in residential premises. Ideal place locations - entrance doors of garages, warehouses, multi-storey buildings.

Polystyrene foam reduces the thermal conductivity of metal doors in garages and utility rooms

Video: insulating a garage door with foam plastic

This category includes basalt and glass wool. They differ in the source raw materials - basalt is made from rocks, and glass wool is made from sand and glass, stretched into thin long fibers. There is no noticeable difference in thermal insulation properties, but glass wool is more environmentally friendly. Both materials are characterized by high fire safety and ease of installation.

When laying mineral wool inside metal doors, certain rules must be followed. For example, you cannot crumple mats between the stiffening ribs - this reduces the thermal insulation characteristics. The material must be cut with an accuracy of 1–2 mm.

Mineral insulation is available both in the form of mats and in the form of rolls of various thicknesses

A significant disadvantage of mineral wool for insulating a metal door is its hygroscopicity. The fact is that with a large difference in air temperatures on both sides of the door, the dew point shifts into the inner space of the door leaf. This leads to the fact that condensed excess moisture is immediately absorbed by the fibers. Over time, water accumulates and the thermal insulation characteristics decrease to 80%. This scenario can be avoided using additional vapor barrier film, which is attached over the entire area of ​​the sash. A hydrobarrier neutralizes the effect of moisture accumulation, but there is no complete guarantee. It is for this reason that mineral wool insulation is recommended for doors that are not exposed to significant temperature changes. For example, at the entrance to an apartment.

Video: insulating a metal door with mineral wool

Polyurethane, or inflatable insulation

Quite expensive, but effective technology. The internal cavity of the door leaf is filled with polyurethane foam. Cured polyurethane is a synthetic substance that is not subject to corrosion and is an excellent heat insulator. The difficulty is that for inflation you need a special industrial equipment, combining a diffuser and a compressor. But using foam from household spray cans is too expensive.

The polyurethane coating is not afraid of water and is a hard, sealed layer

Regardless of the chosen material, preparation for insulation consists of planning the locations of the stiffeners. Experts recommend placing them in such a way that the insulation is securely held inside the sash without additional fastening. That is, the crossbars are placed not only vertically or horizontally, but they are also combined so that the insulation does not sag over time.

The cotton wool is placed tightly between the stiffening ribs inside the door leaf

Stages of installing insulation on a door leaf

Experts advise installing insulation in doors that are in a horizontal position - on a table or trestle. The key to successful thermal insulation is careful laying of the entire surface and minimization of gaps. The process is performed before sewing up the inside of the fabric:

1. The dimensions of the frame cell are measured.
2. Insulation blanks are cut out with an error of maximum 2 mm (in the larger direction).
3. The material is placed in the sash:
   • if polystyrene foam is used as insulation, several points (4–5) of liquid nails are applied to the surface of the workpiece, the resulting cracks are leveled with polyurethane foam;
   • when insulating with mineral wool, a waterproofing film is first laid over the entire area of ​​the door, with a release (reserve), then the insulation is laid out and covered with another layer of film, the edges of which are rolled up into a single “cocoon”, only after that the door is sewn up from the outside (to enhance the impenetrability air, the edges of the membrane are carefully taped).

Video: how to insulate a metal door with foam plastic

Insulation of the door frame

For good insulation, it is necessary to insulate the door frame. The method depends on the design of the frame, which may consist of an all-metal frame or a hollow profile. This is not difficult to do. Polyurethane foam from a household spray can is poured into the profile. If necessary, holes are drilled on the surface along the diameter of the tube into which polyurethane is blown. It fills all free space.

The internal cavity of the frame is filled with foam

It will not be possible to insulate an all-metal frame in this way, so you need to carefully treat the gap between the frame and the doorway with foam.

An innovative means of insulating a metal door is the insulating paint of the “Akterm” series, produced on the basis of modern nanotechnology. The composition includes microscopic ceramic balls (several microns in size). A 1 mm layer of paint is equivalent in its thermal insulation characteristics to 5 cm of polystyrene foam. The disadvantage is the rather high price and difficult application of the composition to the metal surface.

Video: insulating door frames with mineral wool

Soundproofing a metal door

An important property of an entrance door is its ability to contain noise from outside. Metal doesn't help in this regard. On the contrary, it enhances sounds. Therefore, the door is supplemented with special internal and external coatings that reduce the level of penetrating noise.

External covering

This is done using sound-absorbing and vibration-proofing materials. These include:

• polystyrene;
• vibroplast;
• bitoplast;
• bimast.

This synthetic coatings, are a canvas that actively dampens any sounds and vibrations.

Sound-absorbing materials consist of several layers of different densities

The work order is as follows:

1. The material must be spread over the surface to be insulated and smoothed. Some types are equipped with an adhesive layer; it is enough to free them from protective film and press it against the plane of the door.
2. For others, you need to first clean and degrease the canvas. Then evenly distribute the waterproof glue, cover the surface with the material and wait until it dries completely. It is advisable to paste both from the outside and from the inside.

Installation of seal

The product is simple but effective. Previously, felt was used as a sealant; today there is a wide range of ready-made rubber and caoutchouc products. There are no installation difficulties, you just need to remove protective covering and carefully stick the profiled strip along the perimeter of the sash. Its width should not be more than 25% of the size of the door frame support strip. The thickness is chosen in such a way that in a compressed state (at behind closed doors) the seal was reduced by half.

The seal consists of rubber tubes of a special section

Metal door finishing

The exterior decoration of the door performs two important tasks. Hides the unsightly appearance of bare metal and protects the canvas from exposure unfavorable factors. It is especially important to protect the steel surface from excessive moisture, as this can cause corrosion.

The choice of finishing materials is huge. But the most popular are:

• MDF panels;
• leather vinyl;
• solid wood.

Microwood fiber (MDF) is a mixture of wood and carbide chips, compressed under high temperature and pressure. The material retains the color, texture and tactility of wood, but is not inferior to plastic in strength and elasticity. A big plus MDF panels are due to their low price. However, this type of finishing belongs to the “premium” class and, from an aesthetic point of view, is not inferior to natural solid wood.

An entrance door finished with MDF is difficult to distinguish from natural wood

Professionals also note a number of other advantages of MDF:

• high heat and sound insulation;
• increased fire resistance, fire safety;
• combination of high strength and ease of processing;
• resistance to influence biological factors: mold, mildew, dampness;
• environmentally friendly, the boards do not contain toxic and harmful chemicals.

In retail chains you can find four types of MDF panels:

• painted with RAL dye;
• coated with a polymer-based composition;
• laminated panels;
• veneered products.

In addition to sheet products, there is a wide range of additional decorative elements doors - platbands, extensions, etc.

Leather vinyl - view exterior finishing, made from artificial materials simulating genuine leather. This group also includes vinyl artificial leather and dermantine. If the covering technology and operation are followed, the cladding retains its properties for a long time. Kozhvinil is a champion among inexpensive ways to protect doors from noise and hypothermia. Easy to clean with regular cleaning products.

At proper care leather vinyl coating can last for many years

Disadvantages include the flammability of the material and vulnerability to vandalism. Drape the door In a similar way accepted in interior spaces. Contact with open air and straight sun rays quickly leads to loss of color and gloss of the coating.

One of the solutions for finishing a metal door in the middle price range is covering the door with anti-vandal film. This wonderful product is not produced in Russia, so its price is high. The most popular is the film from Israel from Vinorit. PVC coating has a variety of colors, textures and thicknesses. Resistant to ultraviolet radiation, mechanical damage and fire.

Natural solid wood is the most expensive type of finish for iron doors. The overlay panel is made by gluing lumber and further processing it: sanding, milling, polishing, etc. Expensive wood species are used for production - oak, beech, mahogany, alder, ash. As a rule, the form of release of a solid wood panel is an overlay with a thickness of 18 mm. This allows you to inlay the surface with various “subjects”. Often external cladding metal imitates paneled structure doors It is possible to apply ornaments, drawings and other decorative elements. In the factory, wood is not only coated with paint or varnish, but also impregnated with special compounds, thanks to which the material becomes resistant to the adverse effects of the atmosphere, does not dry out and almost does not burn.

Solid wood compares favorably with other finishing materials:

• elegance of appearance;
• absolute naturalness and environmental friendliness;
• durability;
• increased performance in terms of thermal insulation and sound absorption;
• possibility of restoration.

Oak flooring only becomes more beautiful over the years

Entrance metal door, lined natural wood, is a symbol of respectability. Most often found in expensive restaurants, five-star hotels, reputable organizations and offices of large companies.

Video: interior decoration of a metal door

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Installation of iron doors is carried out as in apartments residential buildings, and in bathhouses, garages, outbuildings, private houses, providing reliable protection of property from thieves and other intruders.

If purchasing a high-quality metal door is not possible due to the high cost of materials, or because of the need to manufacture a door of a certain size, then when making iron doors yourself, you can rest assured that the design will be reliable, and the costs of the materials used will not be too high.

Planning and sketch

First you need to take careful measurements of the doorway, and also make sure that your walls are made of brick or concrete, and not plywood under a thick layer of plaster. After this, you should display the dimensions of the doors, the installation height of the hinges and lock, stiffeners and other features of the product on paper.

If during the measurements you find that the dimensions are more than 1500x2000 millimeters, then it is better to make a prefabricated door frame; in this case, you need a frame covered with metal on the top or side. In a wide doorway of a private house, it is recommended to add 2 additional modules with glazing to strengthen the door structure and decorate the entrance area.

Tools and materials

To make it you will need:

Making a door

First, we will describe a variant of manufacturing a classic iron door, which includes a door frame, leaf, hinges and fastening plates for fixing in the doorway.

Because metal door blocks installed at the entrance to the apartment, the door leaf should open from the inside out. As prescribed fire safety Entrance door should not create obstacles to evacuation if necessary.

The quality of installation depends on whether you correctly prepare the doorway before installing metal doors. It is important to adjust its dimensions to the dimensions of the door - the more accurately this is done, the smaller the gap between the opening and the door, the more securely the door will be installed. This can be explained by the length of the protruding part anchor bolt. If the opening is too wide, then the door is installed in a suspended state - parts of the frame will not adhere to the walls.

1. Work is carried out on metal workbench. First, we will assemble the box, for which we will cut a metal corner and a profile at 45 ° according to the markings. Then you should check the cutting accuracy, for this you need to connect the frame and attach a carpenter's corner. You can assemble a frame from pipes by welding them in the shape of a rectangle.
   During the work, it is important to check the accuracy of the connection of corners and diagonals so that the structure does not become distorted. Welds should be processed using an angle grinder so that the blade fits tightly to the door frame.
   
2. We make blanks for the frame from a metal corner, using pre-prepared rectangles of a certain thickness as templates. The gap between the frame and the door frame will be about 5 millimeters on the lock side and about 3 millimeters on the other 3 sides. You should mark and cut it, then put it in the door frame, and then check the diagonal.
   A slot for a lock is required in the side profile. Weld the frame corners and frames in several places around the entire perimeter. Now you can weld metal strips onto the frame that will secure the door trim.
   
3. It is necessary to weld the first stiffening rib inside the door leaf - measure the length of the frame, cut off the profile of the required dimensions and weld it vertically in the center. Then you should clean the weld seams with a grinder.
4. After all this, you need to mark the canvas. We recommend keeping the overlap of the steel sheet on the box within 10-15 millimeters, and on the side of the hinges – 5 millimeters. Cut the steel sheets with a grinder and weld them to the frame.
   Stiffening ribs located horizontally should be welded inside the canvas. If they are not enough, then the volume of reinforcement should be increased.
5. To install the lock, make markings on the canvas with a marker or chalk. Drill a hole for the lock and file it. Drill the holes required to attach the lock, cut the threads and secure the lock with bolts. Install the lock handle.
   To install a lock on a door, other steps may be required (it all depends on the type of product). Read the article about.
6. Lubricate the hinges and weld them to the door frame and door frame. You should use a grinder to cut the junction of the frame and the leaf, open the door and fix the hinges from the inside using a welding machine.
   You can also make a hole for a peephole in the door either through the central profile and metal, or by moving the peephole to the side and then drilling a hole only in the metal sheet.
7. To make fasteners for the door, take 6-10 strips of metal and weld them to the door frame.
   We will then make the holes needed for the anchors in these strips.
8. To insulate the door, cut a piece of polystyrene foam, mineral wool or other insulation and fill it with the entire area located between the stiffeners.
   To make interior decorative cladding, we recommend taking a sheet of plywood that has been pre-cut to size and fastening it with rivets. For finishing, you can use plastic, laminated panels or lining (if you install the door in a bathhouse).
   If after production you still have suspicions that the door was not insulated reliably, we recommend reading.
9. All is ready. All that remains is to coat the door with auto primer and then paint it.
   If you wish, instead of painting, you can cover the door with leather or leatherette. If necessary, seals should be installed on the door frame. Drill holes in the welded steel strips, secure the door frame with anchors in the opening, use a level to prevent the door from skewing.

Decorating a door with a window and a figured grille

An entrance door with double-glazed windows is installed in private houses. Due to the fact that light penetrates the window, the hallway will be better illuminated, and forged elements will give the front entrance a respectable look.

The window located in the doorway is made during cutting metal sheet. Metal reinforcement is welded along the perimeter of a rectangular or other shaped hole.

Then follow the same stages of work as in the version with a classic door. After painting, you need to install a double-glazed window into the window opening, and it is recommended to weld a decorative grille on the outside.

what door to put in a private house so as not to freeze.

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