How to plant delphinium in spring. Delphinium perennial: feeding

If there is room in your garden for tall flowering perennials, then plant the austere and impressive aristocratic delphinium. Blooming delphiniums are always very spectacular. They have an unusual flower shape and rare shades. In addition, they do not require any special care. And the best part is, perennial species They winter normally in our latitudes. Let's pay attention to perennial delphinium, growing from seeds of which can provide you with a flowering plant this summer.

Delphinium, spur or larkspur (Delphinium) is a tall (up to 2 m) flowering herbaceous plant. There are more than 300 annual and perennial species.

The leaves are rounded, palmately lobed, slightly pubescent. On an erect stem there is a large spike-shaped inflorescence, which can contain up to 80 flowers. Alpine species are shorter.

In floriculture, various subspecies and varieties of hybrid delphinium (Delphinium x cultorum Voss.) are most often used. They are divided into groups:

— Marfin hybrids Russian selection is characterized by high winter hardiness. But when propagated by seeds, a strong split in species characteristics occurs, so they are now used infrequently.

— Hybrids Belladonna(D. Belladonna) bred from Lamiaceae and large-flowered varieties back at the end of the 19th century. They are relatively short and have the ability to re-bloom.

Delphinium hybrids Belladonna

— Hybrids Elatum(D. x. elatum) were obtained as a result of crossing with the obligatory participation of tall delphinium. Large flowers of this species are most often semi-double.

Delphinium hybrids Elatum

— Pacific hybrids or Pacific (D. x pacific) were bred in the USA, they are distinguished by tall bushes, large inflorescences and flowers. But in our climatic conditions it is often affected by diseases, therefore it is mainly used as a biennial, but can grow up to 6 years. Needs support.

— New Zealand hybrids or New Millennium Hybrids are the most popular delphiniums. Bred by New Zealand breeder Terry Dowdeswell. They are very decorative, as they have large dense inflorescences and the purest color of various tones. And besides this, they are winter-hardy, durable and retain their original qualities during reproduction.

Delphinium New Zealand hybrids

The main feature of the delphinium is the unusual structure of the flower. It consists of 5 petals, one of which has a “spur” process. Inside there are two small petals and two nectaries, which differ in color from the outer sepals. It is they who attract pollinators (bumblebees, birds), which is why they are called eyes or bees. This concerns simple shapes, but there are also semi-double and fully double species.

Reproduction options

Perennial delphinium species grow in one place for up to 6 years, then the bush begins to thin out and requires replanting. During this procedure, the simplest propagation is carried out - by dividing the bush. Do it in early spring or at the end of summer after flowering. It is enough to separate one shoot with a healthy renewal bud and the presence of roots.

Just like other perennials, delphinium also propagates by cuttings. They are cut in May or August. Root in a shaded place in a damp mixture of sand and peat (pre-treated with heteroauxin). At temperatures just above 20 degrees, rooting occurs within two to three weeks.

Growing delphinium from seeds is also popular. Previously, propagation by seeds led to the loss of parental characteristics. Now, thanks to modern breeders, this problem has been practically solved. New Zealand hybrids are especially good at this.

Delphinium seeds and their features

One of the difficulties in growing delphiniums from seeds is their very short shelf life. They quickly lose their viability. And so that collected in the fall The seeds could be sown for seedlings in the spring; they should be stored exclusively in the refrigerator. Seeds stored warm will deteriorate, since at temperatures above 15 degrees they can begin to germinate directly in the package.

Therefore, be very careful when purchasing seeds. Before ordering, read reviews about online stores and ask competent friends. Delphinium seeds are quite expensive and it would be a shame if you wasted your money and effort.

You can collect your own seeds from blooming delphiniums. This should be done on a dry, sunny day, and select fully ripened dark brown seeds. It is best to store them in glass containers in the refrigerator or in another fairly cool place (veranda or balcony). However, when using own seeds there is a very high probability of getting plants different from the parent ones. Therefore, it is better to contact trusted stores or well-known breeders for seeds.

Sowing seeds in open ground

You can grow delphiniums from seeds by sowing them in the second half of spring directly into open ground. To do this, dig up the bed thoroughly (about 30 cm) and apply complex fertilizers. Make shallow shallow furrows, water them well, distribute the seeds evenly and sprinkle a thin layer of dry soil on top. For better seed germination, the bed can be covered with dark agrofibre or black film. Provide regular surface watering. Shoots should appear in about 25 days. And only after this will it be possible to remove the cover.

Young shoots should be watered and fed regularly. Loosen the soil and remove weeds. For the winter, young plants will require shelter. And next year they can be planted in a permanent place, and they can bloom.

Annual species of delphiniums reproduce by winter sowing.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

You can also grow delphiniums from seeds using seedlings. Sowing delphinium seeds for seedlings is best done in late February or at the very beginning of March. In 2019, favorable days in February are: 24-26, 28; in March - 1-2, 5, 7, 10-14 (see details). Since young seedlings are not very satisfied with artificial lighting, they need more daylight.

The first step is to prepare the planting soil. It should be neutral or slightly acidic, as well as light and breathable. To do this, you can prepare a soil mixture of sand and leaf (or turf) soil, adding a little humus and peat. A special soil mixture purchased in a store will also work.

Before use, the soil must be disinfected. There are several options. You can put it in the microwave for 5 minutes (maximum power) or pour boiling water over it, or you can simply pour over a solution of manganese or Previcura.

Delphiniums do not tolerate picking very well, so if possible, it is better to immediately sow them in large individual cups (9-13 cm in diameter).

Before sowing, seeds should be stored in packaging at sub-zero temperatures. freezer.

You can take any general container for sowing seeds (disposable food plastic containers with lids are popular), the main thing is to make it at the bottom drainage holes, since stagnation of water is detrimental to seedlings. You can put a little broken red brick or expanded clay on the bottom.

Fill the container with wet soil, compact it, leaving about two centimeters to the top edge of the container. It is important that the depth of the soil layer is at least 10 cm. We spread the seeds with a damp toothpick (they stick to one, and use the other toothpick to push them into the right place). It is advisable that there be a distance of 1.5-2 cm between the seeds. Lightly press them to the surface and sprinkle with the thinnest layer of soil (about 2-3 mm). We water from a spray bottle. Cover with a container lid or film, and on top with black agrofibre (you can also use black opaque film). Delphinium seeds germinate better in the dark. Please note that the temperature should not be higher than 20 degrees (15-18)! Below is possible, but more heat will inhibit the sprouts.

When the first shoots appear (after 7-12 days), we remove the dark cover and place our container in a very bright place, but not in direct sun. On cloudy days, be sure to turn on additional lighting. It is advisable to add additional lighting in the evening. Watering by drip or spraying.

Do not forget to regularly remove condensation from the lid and ventilate the seedlings little by little. When the sprouts reach the level of the lid (film or glass), it must be removed.

Further care

If you did not sow the seeds immediately in separate large cups, then after the first pair of true leaves appear, you should pick the seedlings. Delphiniums are very sensitive to root trauma, so do this as carefully as possible.

Use large plastic cups, but it is best to plant seedlings in peat cups. You can avoid injury to plants by planting them in the garden along with a cup. When picking, carefully grab the sprout by the cotyledon leaves and bury it in the soil to the level of the true leaves. Then we continue to grow seedlings at temperatures below 20 degrees, additional lighting and careful regular watering (we use a spray bottle or a syringe without a needle).

A few days after picking, the seedlings can be fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. In the future, we fertilize every week.

To prevent the disease of seedlings with “black leg”, apply the first watering after planting, as well as after picking, with the “Previcura” solution.

At the beginning of May, seedlings need to begin to gradually harden. Take the plants outside or onto an open balcony, first for a few minutes, then gradually increasing the time to several hours.

Another interesting sowing method

Does delphinium need stratification?

There is no consensus on the question of whether it is necessary to carry out seed stratification when sowing delphinium seedlings.

Some gardeners believe that since the seeds were stored in a cold place before sowing, they have already been stratified to some extent. They sow the seeds directly into the ground and get normal germination.

Other, no less experienced gardeners believe that stratification is still necessary. To do this, containers with sown seeds (which were previously stored in the freezer) are placed in the refrigerator for about 10-14 days. Then the container is placed in a warm (+25 degrees) and bright place. And after germination, care for the seedlings as usual. With this method, germination is also good.

Therefore, the choice here is entirely yours.

Planting in the garden

When the likelihood of night frosts has passed, around the end of May (depending on your climatic conditions), we plant our seedlings in a designated place in the garden.

To plant delphiniums, choose a place without wind and stagnant water. It should be sunny, but with shading at midday. The soil is sandy or loamy, always enriched with humus. Delphiniums tolerate drought normally; excessive waterlogging is much worse for them.

Planting density depends on the variety and compositional solution. After planting, mulch the root circle. Young plants must be shaded at first so that they do not get sunburn and adapt normally to new conditions. It is also important to protect the tender leaves from slugs. Don’t forget to think about support for tying up grown delphiniums.

In the future, care is the most common: watering, fertilizing, loosening and removing weeds, garter. For winter, the top part is cut off. Delphinium overwinters without shelter. However, if your winters are frosty and often without snow, then it is better to cover the plants with straw or spruce branches.

During the first year, your seedlings will gain strength and grow roots. At the end of summer you will see the first, still weak, flowering. And next year you will be pleased with full flowering, which, with proper care and in accordance with the characteristics of the variety, can occur twice.

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Diseases and pests

Seedlings of delphiniums from seeds, like any other, can be susceptible to the fungal disease “black leg”. The causative agents of this disease are found in the soil, so prevention requires its disinfection. Waterlogging, dense planting and heavy soil contribute to the occurrence of the disease. If you notice a plant with blackening at the bottom of the stem that is becoming weak, remove it immediately. When sowing in groups, the soil should be replaced as much as possible and then watered with a solution of the Previkur preparation.

Adult plants are affected by fungal diseases (powdery mildew, rust, root collar rot, mosaic and others). Delphiniums also suffer from bacterial (viral) diseases (spotting, curling, and others).

For fungal infections, spraying with Bordeaux mixture (5%) or other drugs that act on a particular disease is used.

In case of viruses, it is most often necessary to remove the affected plant. Spraying with a tetracycline solution may help, but only at the very beginning of the disease. And the carriers of infections - aphids - should be combated with the help of insecticides.

All these diseases appear as a result of improper plant care and unfavorable weather conditions (prolonged rains or severe drought). You should also regularly remove fallen leaves, thin out bushes, and water promptly.

Delphiniums also have pests: aphids, spider mites, dolphin and onion flies, various caterpillars, slugs, which are very harmful to young leaves.

Insects must be controlled with special chemicals. Tobacco dust and garlic infusion can also be used against aphids. And metaldehyde helps fight slugs. Various folk remedies the struggles are quite troublesome.

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Little tips

1. Before sowing seeds, a thin layer of river sand is sifted onto the soil surface. On a light sandy background, dark brown seeds will be clearly visible and this will make it possible to distribute them correctly.
2. For more successful wintering, in addition to mulching, you can sprinkle the cut bush with sand and cover the hollow tube of the stem with clay (or even plasticine).
3. White delphinium varieties require more light than others. Therefore, they are placed in a bright place when the very first seed is pecked, without waiting for the rest.
4. When several different varieties are planted close together, the purity of the variety may not be preserved. Also, temperature and external environment can affect the color of some varieties.

Now you know how to grow delphinium from seeds. It's not much more difficult than any other seedling. And all the troubles and efforts will immediately seem insignificant as soon as you see the stunning splendor of large openwork candles of blooming delphinium in your garden. Buy the seeds quickly, because you can already start sowing!

Where have you seen picky handsome men? This is such a rarity both in the world of people and in the world of plants. The delphinium that will be discussed is one of the most capricious flowers. But he is forgiven a lot for his beauty. Dreaming of having this miracle on their site, summer residents make every effort to breed delphiniums: growing this plant from seeds is difficult, so the most patient and stubborn ones achieve positive results.

Thanks to such enthusiasts, we have the opportunity to publish the basic principles of the technology for growing delphinium seeds. The instructions are detailed, but you need to follow them, making your own adjustments: after all, everyone has their own approach to plants. And differences in soils, weather conditions and temperature conditions must be taken into account.

Most amateur flower growers believe that the most comfortable conditions for storing seeds are a consistently warm temperature (maybe below the so-called room temperature, but always positive), “breathable” packaging and a dark place. But delphinium completely breaks the usual stereotypes.

In order to be guaranteed to grow delphinium seeds, they need to be frozen - literally.

Paradoxically, at sub-zero temperatures (optimal - minus 150), the seeds of this plant retain the ability to germinate for up to 15 years. If planting material is kept warm, it will remain usable for no more than 11 months.

Seeds stored in a hermetically sealed aluminum foil bag retain their ability to reproduce a little longer. Typically, all specialized gardening stores sell these. When choosing a product, be sure to study the expiration date and inquire about the period of collection and packaging of seeds so that you know how high-quality the material you are purchasing is.

ATTENTION! Most seed companies define the optimal shelf life of seed for perennials as three years.

Rules for storing seeds at home

The most reliable seeds are those grown with your own hands. Owners of suburban areas have been convinced of this more than once. For growing delphinium with seeds, this is extremely relevant, since in the case of personally providing the flowerbed with bright vegetation, the owner is confident in the shelf life, the degree of germination, and the quality of the seeds.

For proper storage, the collected seeds should be placed in clean and dry glass jars and left in a fairly cool place: a refrigerator or an unheated balcony is ideal for this.

Sowing seedlings

To obtain “seedling” delphiniums, growing from seeds becomes the first and rather difficult step on the path to a beautiful flower. There is simply no general recipe for 100% germination, obtaining high-quality seedlings and their lush flowering in the future, but there are general recommendations that can help you avoid diseases and injuries that are dangerous for young “dolphins.”

Period

Sowing seeds for seedlings should begin in early spring. Actually, this period is designated by nature itself for the growth and development of plants. But since delphinium is a prince of the north and needs some time to thaw, the seeds of this plant will begin to grow much more actively in late March - early April.

Container

The container that you assign to the responsible role of the first “home” of small delphiniums can be varied, but must correspond to the number of seedlings.

If the number of seeds is limited, they will fit perfectly in small pots with a diameter of 13-15 cm.

If you are preparing seedlings for a flowerbed of impressive size, growing delphiniums from seeds should begin in spacious boxes.

The required height of the soil layer in the container is about 10 cm; if there is not enough substrate or the container is too cramped, the seedlings will be lethargic, depressed and will develop poorly.

Substrate

Buying ready-made store-bought soil in the case of delphiniums is obviously a losing proposition. This plant does not tolerate too peaty and acidic soils; it needs a balance that only a gardener can create - with his own hands.

There is no difficulty in preparing the correct substrate:

• black soil;
• humus;
• sand.

All components must be taken in equal parts.

If there is no black soil in your latitudes, then, as an exception, you can use the same peat that delphinium does not like, but in minimal quantities.

Let us explain why growing delphinium from seeds does not work with an “overdose” of peat: when there is too much of it in the soil, then at the slightest drying, the peat “in company” with humus forms a thick, impenetrable hard crust, in which it is practically impossible for young seedlings to survive.

ATTENTION! Almost all substrates sold in retail outlets have a high proportion of peat. Therefore, they are undesirable when growing delphinium from seeds.

Disembarkation process

After the “bed” in the container is ready, the soil needs to be watered – this will help the seeds to “adhere” to the soil better and more firmly.

Since delphiniums are grown from very small and dark seeds, when sowing you can simply lose orientation and sow one area too thickly and another too thinly. To avoid such an annoying oversight, do the simplest thing: before planting the seeds, sprinkle the soil in the container with white river sand. Against its background, dark seeds will stand out very clearly and you will not be mistaken in the planting density.

According to special calculations, the optimal sowing density should be two seeds per square centimeter. Delphinium emphasizes its paradox in everything: the denser the seeds are planted, the higher the percentage of germination. This feature is completely unusual for other flowers - they develop much better with some freedom of growth and space. But the delphinium is not like everyone else, it is comfortable in the close company of its fellows, and without it it does not grow well.

When the seeds are in the soil at the required density, they must be sprinkled with substrate on top. This layer should not exceed 2-3 mm, otherwise the growth of delphinium seedlings will be greatly delayed, or they will not sprout at all. Germination of unsprinkled delphinium seeds also occurs extremely slowly.

One more watering and the containers can be covered. Old newspapers or burlap are suitable as a bedspread, but on top of them you need another layer of non-woven material (agril, for example).

Temperature "lux"

Again, we emphasize that delphiniums are cold-loving plants. Born in temperate latitudes, they cannot tolerate heat and do not grow in excessively heated areas.

For this plant - excessively, which means above fifteen degrees Celsius.

Delphiniums begin to germinate already at +8, and the temperature limits necessary for the development of seedlings are indicated within 10-16 degrees plus.

When the temperature in the room with the seedlings rises slightly above twenty, the seedlings become lethargic and almost lifeless.

If all sowing rules are followed and the temperature is within luxury limits for delphinium, you can notice seedlings already on the 8-10th day.

Delphiniums, growing from seeds which is a very troublesome process, at the seedling stage should have an elastic and strong appearance and a pleasant dark green color.

You can wait for shoots for three weeks, and if they do not appear during this period, it means that a technological error occurred during sowing or the seeds turned out to be of poor quality.

Care of seedlings in the first days

When the first shoots appear, remove the covering from the containers - now the seedlings need air, and be sure to monitor the moisture level in the box. The soil should not be too dry, as it will be problematic for delphiniums to grow, but it should not be too wet, as the seedlings can be destroyed by the “black leg”.

As for watering, here too the delphinium requires special rules: no stream from above! Such watering destroys young sprouts, after which they fall and can no longer rise.

Therefore - only in the pallet! The gentle method of watering protects the seedlings, guarantees the required percentage of soil moisture and prevents cracks and bald spots in the substrate.

Delphinium: “portrait” of a plant

This is truly a decoration of the garden and a source of pride for the owner: two-meter giants with ears of white, purple, pink, light blue, blue.

And to have something to be proud of, you need to make a huge effort. But that’s not even the point: there is not enough patience, and care when caring for perennial delphinium when grown from seeds is not the same. And for annuals too.

This flower is akin to a sick child: it must be protected from everything. Heat is not suitable for growing delphiniums from seeds, an abundance of water is not suitable, drafts are undesirable, and they do not grow in too bright light.

A plant with a complex character and poor “health” – this is what flower growers jokingly call it.

But it’s so luxurious, that’s why it became the ultimate dream of many summer residents. The flower got its name from the Greek city of Delphi, where in the old days, according to legend, a huge number of such flowers grew. Delphi has been practically drowning in colorful colors since the very beginning of summer.

Apparently, the local gardeners were masters of their craft: their delphinium did not die, but grew well (and this in warm, close to tropical latitudes!).

Perennials and annuals

All types of delphiniums are very spectacular - whether they are annual or perennial.

But growing perennial delphinium from seeds is much more profitable: having invested one time of work, effort and patience, you get in return the decoration of the flowerbed for several years to come.

The perennial delphinium plant gained popularity in the 19th century, at the same time, thanks to enthusiastic breeders, the first hybrids were bred, delighting flower growers with their luxurious appearance. They still exist, but in a more improved form. Delphinium Barlow, Delphinium Beautiful and Delphinium Belladonna are still the standard varieties.

The color palette of perennial delphiniums is more than diverse: up to 800 different shades.

One-year delphinium, grown from seeds in the same labor-intensive way, is good because it blooms earlier than perennial species. If you have experience and a desire to plant spike-shaped flowers in your flowerbed every year, then you can do it - this flower is worth giving time and attention to.

There are several distinctive characteristics by which you can recognize the annual delphinium:

• stem height no more than a meter;
• the flowers are much smaller than those of the perennial delphinium.

But in terms of brightness and richness of the palette, it is in no way inferior to the perennial. Growing and caring for representatives of both plant varieties are identical.

The delphinium flower grows in flower beds, front gardens and other areas. There are many different varieties that bloom in a variety of colors. A perennial can grow in one place for a long time. Let's take a closer look at how to plant delphinium correctly, what kind of care it needs and what varieties there are.

Features of the plant

The tall herbaceous plant belongs to the buttercup family. It has a hollow stem, the height of which can reach 2.5 meters. There are 450 varieties of plants, 150 of them grow in our country.
One bud has 5 petals. 1 petal of them always has a kind of thorn at the tip. Flower petals can be arranged in one or two rows.
You can find double and simple delphinium flowers in flower beds. The plant blooms in different shades. Blue flowers are most common. In addition to them, in the garden you can see flowers in white, purple, pink, and bright red shades.
The flowers are collected in brushes, the length of which can reach 80–100 centimeters.
The leaves of the shrub are large, dissected, and dark green in color.

Since delphinium has healing properties, it is sometimes popularly called larkspur. In the Middle Ages, tincture from the plant was used to quickly heal wounds. Since delphinium is a poisonous plant, using it independently to treat diseases is strictly prohibited.
Some gardeners call the plant a spur plant, since one petal of the flower always has a shape resembling a spur. Delphinium cultivation involves special knowledge and labor. It is important to choose the right planting site, plant the plant correctly, and also care for delphiniums in the future.
It is recommended to plant plants in sunny areas, protected from strong winds and stagnant water in the ground. It is important to carry out peat mulching after planting.
Delphinium flowers can be replanted once every five years. The Pacific type of plant needs to be replanted every three years. To prevent flower branches from being broken by the wind, it is advisable to tie them up as the plant itself grows.

If you provide all the conditions for the growth and development of the delphinium, it will delight you with its beauty for a long time.

Plant varieties

By studying everything about delphiniums, you can find out that the plant comes in different types and varieties. Flowers are annuals and perennials. Annual plants include the following varieties:

• the field delphinium reaches a height of two meters. The inflorescences consist of simple or double pink, white, lilac or blue flowers. The plant blooms in June and delights with its flowering until the onset of autumn;
• The height of the Ajax delphinium is 40 - 100 centimeters. The plant has dissected leaves, spike-shaped inflorescences of purple, red, blue, pink, blue, and white shades. Some Ajax varieties have densely double flowers. The delphinium plant blooms at the beginning of summer and pleases the eye until the onset of the first frost.
• Yellow delphinium usually grows in the mountains of California. The plant is not tall - only 35 centimeters. One inflorescence can have from 2 to 6 flowers. Our flower growers plant this variety of delphinium to create rock gardens.

In addition to annual varieties of delphiniums, perennial plants can also be grown. Conventionally, they are divided into the following large groups:

1. Mafin hybrids are dense, tall bushes with strong stems. Flowers are sown from seeds and in 90 percent of cases they bloom as real semi-double flowers. The height of the plant can reach 1.5 - 2 meters.
2. Belladonna varieties have inflorescences that hang in panicles. The flowers are white or pink. Will fit harmoniously into the design of your garden.
3. Pacific hybrids are large bushes with tall shoots. Semi-double inflorescences reach a length of one meter.
4. Varieties Elatum. There are blue delphinium or blue delphinium. Sometimes there are bushes with dense purple inflorescences. The bushes grow up to 1.5 meters and bloom for a long time with beautiful bright flowers.
5. New Zealand hybrids have large semi-double or double flowers that form dense clusters. The color of the flowers is pure, bright and very beautiful.
6. There is also a holostem delphinium, its height is no more than one meter. It is sometimes called red delphinium because the flowers of the plant are red-orange or simply red. The bush blooms in early to mid-summer. It is recommended to grow this variety of delphinium in pots and store it in warm places in winter.

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Each delphinium group consists of 20 varieties. Therefore, it is very difficult to choose just one variety. Gardeners often buy seeds of different varieties and types, choose when to plant which plant and decorate the areas near their houses with them.

Perennial delphiniums bloom in early summer. They bloom for a month. From 50 to 80 flowers, tall candles of inflorescences are formed. The bushes are blooming from below.

The flowers of the plant have round, sharp, wide or curled petals. You can find varieties in which one flower consists of several forms of petals at the same time. Some flowers have “eyes” in the center, while others do not have them.

Features of planting

For rapid growth plants with beautiful bright flowers are important to observe simple rules landings. They consist in the correct selection of the place and time of planting, in the correct preparation of the soil and, of course, in following the rules for planting itself.

Choosing a place

Delphinium should be planted in a sunny, windless place.

The soil should be loosened and cleared of weeds. It is advisable that there are no trees or bushes near the flowers, which can inhibit the growth of delphinium with their roots. Flowers should be planted at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other. It is also important to take into account the planting characteristics of each type of plant. You can learn about this from experienced flower growers. It is worth planting tall varieties of plants separately from low-growing bushes so that they do not block the sun.

Plants 10 centimeters high can be planted in the ground in March - May. For rooting more high grades It is recommended to plant plants in August – September, before the onset of frost.
At summer planting, the stems of the plant must be cut so that only 10 centimeters of the plant are visible on the surface of the ground. It is not recommended to bury the buds with soil. After planting, flowers need to be protected from direct contact sun rays, and also provide them with regular watering.

Preparing the ground

Before planting delphinium, it is important to prepare the soil. The soil should be loamy, fertile, drained with a normal or neutral reaction.
In the fall, where it is planned to plant spurs, it is important to dig up the soil, adding complex mineral fertilizer to it.
Clay soil must be diluted with sand. The bottom of each hole is covered with broken slate, brick or crushed stone. Acidic soil is flavored with lime, and sandy soil is flavored with peat.

Complex fertilizer can be replaced with the following mixture: three parts of potassium chloride are mixed with two parts of superphosphate and one part of ash.

Features of plant care

Delphinium care is not only about correct landing, but also in feeding, pruning, preparing the plant for winter in the fall. Thanks to proper and timely care, the delphinium will bloom profusely.

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Delphinium planting and care is as follows:

• It is recommended to feed the plant in the spring, before and after flowering. It is necessary to fertilize using complex mineral fertilizers. The perennial is fed more often. You need to make a hole around the flower and feed it with liquid fertilizer diluted in water. The procedure is carried out three times per season. When the buds appear, fertilizing is carried out with boric acid, which is sprinkled on the leaves;
• planting and care open ground also lies in timely pruning of larkspur. Plants 30 centimeters high are trimmed to give beauty and better flowering. In the fall, when the larkspur has faded, the inflorescences need to be carefully trimmed. Dried leaves also need to be cut off, but in such a way that water does not get inside the stems. Otherwise, they may begin to rot and disappear;
• It is also important to know how to care for delphinium in winter. Three-year-old plants tolerate cold winter weather well. Young transplanted stems need shelter before the onset of cold weather. You can cover it with film or spruce branches. In the garden, mature stems are pruned before the onset of winter to protect them from severe frosts and bad weather.

Also, all young delphiniums can be buried with earth before wintering, and covered with hay and dried grass on top. As soon as the snow falls, the covered delphiniums need to be covered with snow slides. Snow will saturate the ground with moisture and also protect the rhizomes from severe frosts.

Care after flowering

Caring for and growing delphinium in the garden also involves taking the correct actions after the plant blooms. After the flowers fade, the leaves dry out. Trim the spur stems, leaving 30 centimeters above the ground. Be sure to cover the cut on the hollow stem with clay. If this is not done, rain and other precipitation may penetrate inside the plant, which may cause it to die.

In cold and snowless winter weather, it is enough to cover the delphinium with straw. The plant may perish due to frequent and sudden temperature changes, as such conditions provoke the accumulation of moisture, due to which the rhizomes begin to rot. To prevent the formation of rot, it is important to pour half a bucket of sand into the bottom of each hole before planting. Sand will help excess moisture penetrate deep into the earth faster, without lingering on the roots of the larkspur.

Features of plant protection from pests and diseases

Planted spurs often suffer from viral diseases, fungi or pests.
Viruses are transmitted by aphids. Therefore, systematically prevent its occurrence. Spraying with insecticides helps prevent flies that lay their eggs in the stems and buds of flowers. Bacteria can cause black spots on the bottom of leaves. Affected leaves must be removed and other parts of the plant treated with tetracycline.

Foundationazole can save the plant from powdery mildew and other fungal diseases. To avoid fungal infection, it is recommended to plant delphinium sprouts at a distance from each other, and also ensure proper watering.
Leaves may suffer from ramularia. They are covered with large dark brown spots. After a while they dry out and fall off. An antifungal drug is used to eliminate the disease.
Leaves can also be damaged by slugs that eat them. Slugs especially like to gnaw on young leaves of the plant. To control pests, you need to regularly weed the weeds, and sprinkle the ground around the bushes with potassium salt or superphosphate. Such means will prevent slugs from moving around the plants, and they will leave the area.

Methods for propagating delphinium

In order for the spur plant to multiply and bloom well in the garden, it is important not only to know how to plant it correctly, but also how to propagate it. Growing delphinium from seeds is considered the most common occurrence. But, in addition to this method, the plant can also be propagated by cuttings or dividing the bush.

Read also: Growing dichondra ampelous

Dividing the bushes

Three-year-old bushes can be propagated by dividing into parts.

• In spring, the bushes need to be dug up and divided into several parts, so that each rhizome consists of two shoots.
• The cut areas must be sprinkled with crushed activated carbon to avoid infection of the sprouts.
• Clean the rhizomes from the soil, cut off the damaged parts and wash under running water.
• Mix equal amounts of chernozem with sand and humus.
• Fill the pots with the resulting soil.
• Place divisions in each pot.
• Place them in a warm place.
• After 21 days, the sprouts can be transplanted into open ground.

If a delphinium planted in a pot produces a peduncle before planting in open ground, it is best to cut it off.

Cutting process

In spring, cut off 15-centimeter shoots along with a two-centimeter rhizome.
Plant the cuttings in open ground immediately. It needs to be planted in the shade. After two weeks, transplant the pagons to a permanent place of growth.
You can also carry out cuttings in boxes or pots. To do this, fill the prepared containers with special soil and plant the cut cuttings in them. Gently sprinkle with soil and water. Be sure to spray the cuttings three times a day and regularly moisten the soil. After three weeks, the rooted cuttings can be transplanted to a permanent place of growth, protecting them from direct sunlight and stagnant water in the soil.

Seed propagation

Anyone who has wondered how to grow delphinium from seeds should remember that the flowers from the seeds of the first year of collection have the brightest colors. Since the seeds of the plant quickly lose their viability, it is necessary to sow delphinium in the garden or country house immediately after they ripen - in October or November. Sow seeds either in prepared boxes, or directly into open ground. If you were unable to propagate delphinium with seeds in the fall, subject the material to stratification.
After making small furrows, sow the seeds at a distance of 7 centimeters from each other. Fill the furrows with soil and moisten the soil with a sprayer. After 30 days, thin out the sprouts so that they can grow and develop calmly. In May, plant the sprouts in open ground.
Growing larkspur from seeds in open ground is carried out in the following periods:

1. in April – May;
2. in June – July;
3. in October or November.

Delphinium grown from seeds is winter-hardy, has a powerful root system and a developed above-ground part.

Landscape design and delphinium

Due to the magnificent appearance of the inflorescences, the bright and varied colors of the buds, and the compatibility of the flower with other crops, gardeners prefer to plant delphinium in their garden. Garden delphinium blooms earlier than peonies and immediately after the irises have already bloomed. Therefore, spurs look harmonious in the garden and are often used for its design. If you combine different varieties and shades of the plant, it harmoniously fills the space of the garden or cottage. It is used to create mixborders.

Delphinium rightfully takes pride of place in the flower beds and lawns of our country. This magnificent plant, represented by many varieties, has a wide variety of shades. In addition, the culture is not too demanding in care, and its perennial varieties will please the eye for several years without needing a transplant. In this article we will talk about planting perennial delphinium and caring for it.

Delphinium perennial is a tall herbaceous plant belonging to the buttercup family. The stem of the flower is hollow and can reach 2.5 m in height. This crop can be found in Asia, Europe and North America. Science knows more than 450 plant varieties, 150 of which grow in Russia. The inflorescences of perennial delphinium look very impressive. The bud, as a rule, has 5 petals, one of which is decorated with a kind of thorn. The petals can be arranged in one or several rows; there are both simple and double varieties of the plant. As for the color range, it is quite wide. As a rule, blue and cyan tones predominate among the shades, but there are also white, purple, pink and even bright red varieties. Many flowers grow on one stem, collected in a brush. The length of the inflorescence ranges from 80 to 100 cm. The foliage of the delphinium is large, dissected, and dark green in color. Popularly, the described plant is sometimes called larkspur, due to the healing properties of the culture. In the Middle Ages, doctors used delphinium tincture as a means to heal wounds. Sometimes the flower is also called spur - this is due to the appearance of the buds, one of the petals of which resembles a spur. Note that you should not use the plant yourself as a medicine, since delphinium is a poisonous crop. Popular varieties of perennial delphinium As mentioned earlier, in nature there is a huge variety of species of this plant; it is not possible to describe them all. Below we list only the most beautiful and popular varieties, widely used by gardeners in landscape design: Delphinium Leroy is a tall crop that came to us from hot Africa. The flower is very heat-loving; its inherent advantage over many other species is its magnificent sweetish smell, somewhat reminiscent of the aroma of vanilla. The stem of Leroy's delphinium reaches 1.5 m in height, the buds are painted snow-white, sometimes greenish. Delphinium pyramidalis grows in the wild in mountainous areas - this is what determines the plant’s ability to tolerate cold and frost well. This variety can easily withstand temperatures down to -20°C; the Himalayas are considered the plant’s homeland. This variety is completely undemanding when it comes to soil; it grows well even on poor rocky soils. From approximately July to September, delphinium produces inflorescences covered with small flowers, up to 3 cm in diameter. Terry perennial delphinium is loved by many gardeners for its long and abundant flowering. This culture pleases the eye with its bright buds from May to August, the length of the plant stem reaches 1-2 m. The variety of shades is very large, the predominant colors are blue and purple tones. However, breeders do not stop there and develop new ones. hybrid varieties. At the moment, in the gardens of Russia you can find terry delphinium in black, red and even yellow shades. This perennial crop can grow in the same place for 8 years. Delphinium rareflower is a medium-sized plant, the stem of which does not exceed 75 cm in height. The Altai Territory is considered the birthplace of the culture. Delphinium Bruno is a heat-loving flower that does not tolerate frost well. As a rule, this variety is found in warm climates: in Tibet, the Pamirs, India, Afghanistan. However, in Russia, some gardeners plant this plant in flower beds, and with the arrival of the first cold weather, the crop is insulated with covering material. The buds of Bruno's delphinium are somewhat reminiscent of pansies, the predominant shade of the flowers is blue-violet. Delphinium tall deserves its name thanks to its long stem, the height of which ranges from 1.5 to 3 m. Delphinium holostem is a medium-sized crop that reaches a height of no more than 1 m. The flowers of this variety are painted in a red-orange hue; the flowering period of the buds falls in June and July. This heat-loving plant is best grown in pots, putting them in a warm place for the winter. Blue delphinium is a low-growing perennial plant whose inflorescences have a rich blue tint and a dark core. This variety also belongs to heat-loving crops, therefore, with the arrival of winter, the shrubs are transplanted into pots and brought into a warm room. If this is not done, new seeds will sprout in the flowerbed next year, but they will flower no earlier than a season later. Delphinium Lamiata has a very attractive and unusual appearance. The flowers of this variety are painted in two colors: one surface of the petals has a blue-green tint, and the second is grayish-gray. Delphinium Kashmiri came to us from India, the predominant color of the buds is purple. Each flower has a dark core. Varieties of the variety with snow-white inflorescences are often found. Delphinium shortspur belongs to low-growing crops. The height of its stem does not exceed 20-30 cm. This variety can be found in Alaska, the Arctic and some regions of Russia. This is a frost-resistant plant that can easily tolerate winter cold. Planting delphinium Before growing perennial delphinium, you should pay attention to the composition of the soil where you are going to plant the crop. This plant does not like acidic soils, preferring neutral and fertile soil. If your site has acidic soil, prepare it in the fall by adding a small amount of slaked lime or dolomite flour. When preparing the soil mixture, use 100 g of the substance per 1 m² of land. To saturate the soil useful substances, add peat or manure to it. The landing site also needs to be decided in advance. Remember that most delphiniums have a rather tall and thin stem, so it is better to plant the plant in places where there are no strong winds. In a windy place, flower stems may break. By the way, this crop also loves the sun, so try to choose a place for the flower bed in a well-lit area. Delphinium perennial: plant care In rainy summers, the crop practically does not need additional watering, since the precipitation is quite enough to saturate the plant required quantity moisture. If the season is quite dry, then the delphinium needs to be additionally watered 1-2 times a week. Please note that moisturizing may not be frequent, but sufficiently abundant. It is better to direct the stream of water under the roots, and not at the foliage. To help the soil around the bushes retain moisture longer, it can be mulched. To ensure abundant and beautiful flowering, do not forget to add fertilizer to the soil. There is no need to do this too often; in one season, 3 feedings will be quite enough. The crop is fertilized for the first time in mid-spring, approximately in the second half of April. For such feeding, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are used, which will contribute to good growth stem and development large quantity foliage. As a nitrogen fertilizer, you can use organic matter, for example, mullein, dissolved in water in a ratio of 1 to 10. The delphinium is fed a second time in the first weeks of summer, when buds form on the stems. For these purposes, potassium and phosphorus compounds are used with low content nitrogen. To avoid making a mistake in choosing a substance, you can purchase ready-made fertilizer for flowering plants. The third time the crop is fertilized after the buds fall off. This feeding is needed so that the plant’s high-quality seeds ripen and new buds of restoration appear on the stems. For the third fertilizing, nitrogen should not be used at all; only potassium-phosphorus compounds are needed. Delphinium is one of those plants that needs pruning. The purpose of the procedure is to preserve the high decorative qualities of the crop. The fact is that already in the second season of its flowering, the delphinium produces many young shoots; if they are not removed in time, the inflorescences will turn out small and not very beautiful. As soon as you notice that the young shoots have reached a height of about 20 cm, leave the strongest and most robust ones and cut out the rest. It is better to leave no more than 5 healthy shoots on one bush. By the way, to prevent the plant stems from breaking when their height reaches 0.5 m, tie the shoots to a support. Those who do not plan to collect seeds from delphinium often cut the stems after the flowering period ends. However, there are some subtleties here. Delphinium has hollow shoots, into which water can get in after pruning, which will lead to the formation of rot and possible death of the plant. To avoid this, some gardeners treat cut stems with clay. If you don't want to waste extra time, you can leave the flowers unpruned or cut the stems at a height of at least 30 cm. Methods for propagating delphinium Propagation of perennial delphinium by seeds Without access to a mature delphinium plant, the easiest way to plant the crop is with seeds, which are sold in abundance in most flower shops. The seeds of the crop have good germination, which lasts for 4 years after collection seed material. But after this period, the probability of shoot germination is practically reduced to nothing. The disadvantage of this method is that during seed propagation the varietal differences of the flower are often lost. Growing perennial delphinium from seeds should be carried out taking into account the following subtleties: Before planting seeds in the ground, they must be stratified, that is, placed in the cold for some time. This procedure acts like hardening, ensuring good survival of seeds in the ground and their high germination rate. If you live in a private house and have constant access to a garden plot, then the seeds can be planted in the ground in late autumn, and after sprouting, thin out and pick out the sprouts. If you do not have the opportunity to monitor the germination of shoots, then it is easier to resort to the seedling method. Before sowing the seeds, they need to be kept in the refrigerator for several months. You can plant seed in any suitable container. The soil used is a universal peat-based soil, which can be purchased at a flower shop. Since the grains of the crop are quite small, it is not worth deepening them into the ground. Make grooves several millimeters deep on the surface of the soil, and then plant the seeds there. Lightly cover them with a layer of soil and moisten the surface of the soil with water from a spray bottle. Sprouted shoots can be transplanted to a permanent location around May, when the danger of cold weather has passed. Growing perennial delphinium by division Replanting the crop by division can be done in spring or autumn - during those periods when the plant does not bloom. However, this procedure also has its own subtleties. Delphinium is capable of growing in one place for 8-10 years - at this time it is best not to replant it, since the plant does not like it. It is also important to take into account that after dividing the bush, the delphinium can be very painful, so the procedure must be carried out with special care. You should cut off fragments of the bush with a sharp tool, being careful not to touch the renewal buds. All damage must subsequently be sprinkled with crushed coal to protect the plant from infections. Transplanting delphinium into divisions is carried out quite often; as a rule, in Russia this procedure is usually carried out in mid-April. The hole for each new plant should have dimensions of 40x40x40 cm. The distance between individual bushes should be approximately 50 cm. Before planting the delphinium, you need to prepare a nutritious soil mixture by mixing the soil from the holes with humus, ash and compost. It is also a good idea to add complex mineral fertilizers, and after planting the plants, the flowerbed must be well moistened. Propagation of delphinium by cuttings The most difficult and time-consuming method of propagating delphinium is considered to be replanting it with cuttings. However, it should be noted that the work is justified by the reliability and safety of the method. The cuttings take root well in a new place, retain their varietal characteristics, and the mother bush practically does not suffer from such division. Transplantation is carried out using cuttings taken from young plants. Shoots suitable for planting must reach a length of at least 5-8 cm. Since the stems of the crop are hollow inside, the cuttings must be cut at the very rhizome so that the cavity does not open and dirt and infection do not get there. In order for the cuttings to take root as quickly as possible, they need to be treated with a special compound, for example, “Kornevin” or “Heteroauxin”. The soil for planting should be light, loose and fairly fertile. In order for plants to take root quickly, they must be kept warm for some time. Therefore, containers with transplanted cuttings can be kept in a greenhouse or, if the plants are planted directly in a flower bed, covered with glass jars. It is important to provide the cuttings with partial shade, as well as regular watering and ventilation. 2 weeks after planting, a little complex fertilizer should be added to the soil. As a rule, if all requirements are properly met, by the end of summer the cuttings will take root well, after which they can be transplanted to a permanent place of growth. Delphinium as an element of garden design Many gardeners consider delphinium one of their favorite tall perennials. The reason for this is the magnificent appearance of the inflorescences, the bright and varied colors of the buds, the compatibility of the flower with other crops in the garden. Delphinium begins to bloom at a time when peonies and irises have already dropped their petals, which is why this plant becomes the main bright accent in garden design. Large groups of delphinium look very beautiful on the lawn, especially when using different varieties and shades. This plant is often used to form the background in mixborders. The culture looks harmonious in the company of roses, daylilies, astilbes, phlox, carnations, daisies, and yarrow. Delphinium perennial, photo: Delphinium is perennial. Video

Delphinium is one of the most spectacular and unusual flowers in any garden. No matter what is planted on the site, the bright inflorescences of the delphinium are visible even from a distance. This plant looks especially good in a group. In order to plant a delphinium in the fall, you need to understand its agrotechnical features, when to replant the delphinium and how to plant with seeds.

Planting delphinium seeds before winter

Delphinium is a rather complicated plant. It can be planted in both spring and autumn. If the plant is planted in the autumn, then there is only one opportunity to do this, plant the plant from seeds. Delphinium is planted from seeds before winter from seed collected from a faded plant. Then there is a chance that the seedlings will sprout together in the spring.

It is very important, before sowing delphinium before winter, to pay attention to several rules:

1. For sowing, it is better to choose a sunny, windless place. If a place is too windy, a tall plant may break. It is very fragile at the base.
2. If the planting site will be flooded with melt water in the spring, then it is better to plant it on a mound so that too much water flow does not damage the future plant.
3. It must be taken into account that overwintered seedlings do not always match the expected color. This is due to the fact that under the influence of low temperature a blue pigment is formed, which is dominant in this plant.
4. Before sowing, it is better to store the seeds in the refrigerator, as they really like low temperatures.

How to plant from seeds?

How to plant delphinium seeds before winter? First of all, it should be noted that flowers planted before winter are more durable. Overwintered seedlings will be hardened by frost and will no longer be so afraid of temperature changes that occur in open ground. Such plants are not afraid of spring frosts, which sometimes happen.

Watch the video about the secret to success in planting delphinium.

But when planting, you must take into account that they will bloom only after 2-3 years. In the first year the plant produces very sparse flowering.

The seed needs to be kept at a cold temperature. It needs to be kept in the refrigerator for about 2 weeks. Not everyone has the time to perform such a procedure. If delphinium is planted before winter, the same process occurs, only under natural conditions. The seeds will overwinter and germinate in the spring. This way, they will begin to grow when the time is right, rather than after the gardener has a window in his busy spring schedule to plant.

Seeds for planting should be freshly harvested. Since those that are stale on store shelves can disappoint with their sprouts. This flower doesn't like room temperature and can remain in the bag for no more than 11 months.

When to plant delphinium seeds in the fall?

It is better to plant delphinium seeds in the fall in early November. It is very important to wait until the first frost touches the ground. If this is done earlier, when thaws are still possible, then there is a chance that they will have time to germinate, then their death is inevitable.

The planting time must be determined depending on the region. In the middle zone, the first frosts occur in November; in the south, this time can occur in December and even January. The soil for sowing must be covered with an ice crust. In such soil, the seeds will not germinate, but will safely overwinter under a layer of snow. Growing delphinium from seeds is not an easy task, but if you sow in the fall, you can make your work easier.

Read about planting and caring for standard roses.
And also about the correct planting of garlic before winter.

Autumn planting and care of delphinium in open ground

Before sowing seeds, you need to take care of the land for planting in advance. It is better to do this when the soil can still be easily dug up, because frozen soil can no longer be cultivated.

Planting is carried out in the following steps:

1. The soil needs to be dug up, furrows made and organic and mineral fertilizers applied.
2. Prepare soil for filling after sowing. You can prepare garden soil in bags, but you can also use store-bought soil.
3. The seed material is laid out in furrows and covered with dry, unfrozen soil. But you need to keep in mind that you cannot cover the seeds with too thick a layer of soil. In this case, it will be compacted over the winter and it will be extremely difficult for seedlings to break through such a layer of earth.

But if the soil was not prepared in advance, and you want to see flowers in the spring, you can try another method. True, no one can give a guarantee that the seedlings will sprout. The seeds need to be distributed over the soil and covered with dry, unfrozen soil. This soil can be obtained from a greenhouse or purchased soil can be used. In winter, snow will cover this layer, and future flowers will survive the winter well.

Perennial delphinium can also be planted in the fall. But perennial varieties They usually bloom only in the second year. In the first year they may also have flowers, but not pronounced ones. If annual varieties are sown in the spring, then they bloom in the summer. But you can also plant such varieties in the fall.

In addition, delphinium can be planted at the end of summer. In this case, the flower sprouts. Of course, it doesn’t bloom, but the emerging seedlings tolerate the winter well. In this case, preparing delphinium for winter should be done as for adult plants.

The flower must be cut to a height of at least 20 centimeters. This plant has a tubular stem, so water cannot get inside. Plant sections must be covered with clay. Delphinium tolerates snowy winters well, but if there is little snow, it is better to cover the plant with spruce branches or mulch with sawdust and old leaves.

Yes, not everyone succeeds in planting delphinium in the fall. Have you ever tried to plant delphinium with seeds? Share your successful and not so successful experience of planting delphinium in the fall in the comments, and also watch a video on how to properly plant delphinium in open ground.

Delphinium, popularly called “spur,” is a perennial plant up to 2 m high with numerous stems (10-15). The plant has gained love and popularity thanks to its large (up to 7 cm) unrealistically beautiful blue, white, cyan, violet and yellow flowers, collected in spectacular huge racemose inflorescences with a diameter of up to 80 cm. Spur is quite unpretentious, tolerates cold weather and drought well, needs a moderate amount moisture. Landing carry out seeds straightaway in open ground or seedling method.

Where to plant delphiniums?

Optimal plant delphinium in clayey and loamy soils, low-acid, enriched with organic (compost, humus, ash) and granular mineral fertilizers. It is better to choose a place that is sufficiently warmed by sunlight and protected from gusts of wind. In this case, it is preferable to protect the plant from direct sunlight at noon, as some varieties of delphinium can fade.

Over time, delphinium bushes grow, degenerate, and become smaller. Therefore, once every 3-4 years it is recommended to rejuvenate the flowers - plant them. In this case, it is not at all necessary to change the place. It is necessary to very carefully dig up the plants along with the roots and a clod of earth, discard the weak ones and leave the healthy specimens. The flowerbed is dug up, fresh soil is added, complex and nitrogen fertilizers and the bushes are planted again.

Sowing seeds in open ground

Planting delphinium seeds in open ground is most often done in the spring - in the month of May. For a small plot, add humus, peat (2 kg per m2), nitrophoska (about 10 g per m2) and wood ash at the rate of 100 g per m2. After digging the soil to a depth of about 20-25 cm, compacting, leveling and watering the furrows made, the seeds are sown. Finally, the area is covered with a thin layer of sifted soil (about 1 cm), slightly compacted and covered with polyethylene, agrofabric (agrofibre) or burlap. To increase similarity, it is advisable to keep the seed material moist for 12-14 days at a temperature of about 5°C.

A little about care: the crops are watered once every 3 days at the rate of about 2 liters of water per m2. Immediately after emergence (20-25 days after sowing), the covering material is removed. Caring for plants in summer consists of watering, fertilizing and loosening the soil. As a top dressing, preference is given to a solution of cow manure or mulching the soil with a 2-3 centimeter layer of peat. Next spring, the delphinium is planted in a permanent place, and even then the delphiniums will delight with lush flowering.

Planting delphinium for seedlings

When growing delphiniums using the seedling method, flowering can be achieved already in the first year of planting.

Seedlings are planted in pots or seed boxes in late February - early March, and transferred to open ground in June. The germination of seeds can be increased by placing them in the refrigerator for 2 months (stratification). Depth of sowing seeds for seedlings: 3-4 mm. It is recommended to plant grown seedlings into separate containers with a diameter of 7-10 cm. And in May, seedlings are hardened on a glazed balcony or on outdoors at a temperature of at least +8 degrees.

All summer you need to regularly water the spur plant at the root, avoiding moisture getting on the flowers and leaves. Perennial delphinium is especially sensitive to a lack of moisture during the bud setting phase.

We plant delphinium in the fall (pre-winter sowing)

Delphiniums can also be planted in the fall (if you want to achieve early flowering, but don’t want to bother with seedlings). Seeds are planted in the ground in the fall - early October. Other sources advise doing this in November. When sown in winter, seeds undergo a process of natural stratification.

The sown seeds are sprinkled with a mixture of river sand and peat (1 to 1) and covered with spruce branches, leaves or burlap. As soon as the seedlings hatch, the shelter is removed.

The survival rate of seedlings during winter sowing is lower than when planting seedlings or seeds in open ground in the spring. Therefore, in the fall you need to plant 20-30% more seeds than would be done in the spring.

Propagation by dividing rhizomes

Rhizomes of plants 3-4 years old are dug up in spring or September, cut with a knife into 7-10 parts between buds or new shoots. Each part, which must have buds or at least 1 shoot, is planted in a flower garden. In the same year, the spur is already blooming. Typically flowering lasts 1.5-2 months.

Abundant flowering will begin only in the next season, but can occur twice: in June and August.

Planting varietal delphiniums

Varietal species of delphinium are propagated by seeds or cuttings of rhizomes. After sowing seeds in early March in boxes, the first shoots appear after 20 days without picking. In May, it is already possible to plant delphiniums shallowly in the garden bed, planting 3 of them per hole. By August, the plants are already throwing out small inflorescences.

The information was prepared by Elena Linenko based on sources: “Handbook of a Skilled Florist” by O. Ganichkina and “Flowers. Better than everyone else! " L. Verghese.

Delphinium is native to Asia, Europe and North America and belongs to the buttercup family. It has long and firmly occupied one of the places of honor in the gardens of Russian flower growers.

Thanks to its impressive growth and lush pyramidal inflorescences, it goes well with other flowering plants and is often used in the design of the background in mixborders.

This perennial plant has many varieties, which are usually united under the common name “Cultivated Delphinium”. They differ in height, shape of flowers and their color - from blue, light blue and violet to boiling white and pink.

Features of growing delphinium

Delphiniums grow up to one and a half meters tall and have a hollow stem. Even a slight breeze can break fragile stems. Too hot sun causes flowers to discolor. This determines the choice of place for planting them in the garden.

The plant prefers moderate watering and neutral soil. It is better to water less often, but abundantly. For good flowering, it requires feeding three times a season.

Pruning is an essential element of delphinium care. It also requires a mandatory garter to the support to avoid breaking the tall stem. The first garter should be done when the flower reaches 50-70 centimeters in height.

Important! The garter to the support must be done as the plant grows, every 50 centimeters. It is better to tie it with a strip of soft fabric so as not to pinch the stem.

Planting delphinium in the ground

When planting delphinium in open ground, it is necessary to take into account some subtleties that will help the plant take root well and then give good flowering and growth.

Planting methods

Planting can be done in three ways:

• Seeds
• Cuttings
• Dividing the bush.

Each of these methods has its own characteristics and difficulties. The basic requirements that must be met when planting are as follows:

• Select a landing site in advance, taking into account windiness and light conditions.
• In the fall, prepare the soil in this place. It needs to be dug up, weeds removed as much as possible and fertilized with organic matter.
• In the spring, dig up this place again and apply fertilizers, this time mineral ones.
• Prepare holes measuring 40x40 centimeters and up to 50 centimeters deep, located at a distance of at least 50 centimeters from each other.
• Pour drainage into the bottom of the hole.
• When planting, do not cover the root collar with buds with soil.

Important! After planting, be sure to water the flower generously and continue this watering for about a week.

Optimal time for planting

Both spring and autumn are suitable for planting, the main thing is that the young seedlings are not threatened by frost. Most gardeners prefer spring planting.

Soil for the plant

Delphinium needs neutral, fertile, loose soil. In addition, it is advisable to drain it well. Lime should be added to acidic soil (50 grams per 1 square meter). Clay soil will need to be mixed with sand; you can immediately add drainage in the form of clay shards or broken slate. It is good to add peat to sandy soil.

Planting in spring

Delphiniums are usually planted in the spring in a place prepared in the fall. Planting takes place when the last frosts have ended, usually by the end of April.

Planting in autumn

If desired, you can plant delphinium in the fall, preparing the ground in the same way spring planting. The best time for autumn planting It will be the end of August or the beginning of September.

Features of delphinium care

To get a beautiful, lush and fully blooming delphinium, it needs care. If left unattended, the plant will die or, at best, will not bloom.

Location for the plant

The choice of location is very important for the delphinium. The place should be well lit, but it is very desirable that it be in the shade for two or three hours a day.

This place should not be blown by the wind, because even a flower tied to a support can break.

Pay attention to which places in the garden are the first to form clearings during the thaw. These places are contraindicated for planting delphinium. The fact is that this plant does not have one large rhizome, but only a branched surface root system.

It tolerates even severe frosts well, but at the slightest thaw the roots begin to rot and rot.

Important! Avoid planting delphinium near shrubs or trees, as they can rob it of nutrients.

Caring for delphinium after flowering

After the delphinium has faded, you need to cut off the main peduncle, unless you plan to pick the seeds. If the peduncle is cut low (8-10 centimeters), then measures must be taken to ensure that the flower does not rot. It has a hollow stem and water can get into it, causing it to rot. Some gardeners use clay to "seal" the stem. You can simply bend the remaining stem towards the ground.

However, you don’t have to cut the stem so low, but only remove about 30 centimeters. It is advisable to remove all faded inflorescences immediately.

When flowering ends, it is necessary to fertilize the plant.

Caring for delphinium in autumn

In autumn, cut off all faded inflorescences. The stem and leaves gradually wither. As soon as the first frosts begin, the plant is pruned, leaving no more than 30 centimeters. Due to its frost resistance, adult delphinium does not require any shelter for the winter, but it is better to cover young plants with foliage and spruce branches.

How to water correctly

In rainy summers, delphinium does not require additional watering. If the summer is too dry, the flower needs to be watered 1-2 times a week so that the soil does not dry out.

Only newly planted flowers require abundant watering within a week after planting.

The delphinium should be watered at the root so that water does not get on the leaves and inflorescences.

Also, abundant watering is needed during the formation of buds.

Feeding and fertilizing the flower

The delphinium is fed three times during the season.

• In spring (second half of April) you need to mix superphosphate (60 grams for an adult plant), ammonium nitrate (10 grams), potassium chloride (25 grams) and ammonium sulfate (35 grams). The fertilizer should be scattered around the bush and mixed with the soil to a depth of 5-6 centimeters. You can sprinkle peat on top.
• Budding period (early June). You need to feed the flower with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
• After flowering at the end of August, I use the same fertilizers as in the spring.

Important! If you have difficulties making your own fertilizer, you can use ready-made compounds for flowering plants.

Delphinium pruning

Pruning delphinium is a mandatory procedure for its growth and flowering. It is necessary for the plant to retain its decorative properties for a long time.

Delphinium grows quickly and produces many young shoots. If they are not pruned, they take a lot of energy from the plant, which has a very bad effect on the size and number of flowers.

Trimming methods

Already in the second year of the bush’s life, young shoots need to be cut out, leaving no more than five of the strongest ones. They need to be cut out when they grow to about 20 centimeters.

When the delphinium grows to 30 centimeters, its excess flower stalks are removed. Only two are left for a young, annual plant and 4-6 for an adult. Only the most powerful ones are retained.

It is better to thin out the central part of the bush in delphiniums.

After flowering, you can radically prune the plant, removing all the stems almost to the root. Then, after a short time, the delphinium will produce new shoots that will bloom for the second time this season. In this case, the flowering, of course, will be weaker than the first, but it will still decorate the garden.

Important! Delphinium produces a second bloom in warmer climates. In moderate temperature conditions In the middle zone, it is better to prevent the second flowering, as it will weaken the plant, and this will affect its splendor in the next season.

Pruning for winter

For the winter, all stems are cut down to 30 centimeters and covered with clay on top.

Delphinium transplant

Delphinium does not like to be replanted too often. It is best to replant bushes that are 4-6 years old. Some gardeners replant once every 3-4 years.

Transplant methods

It is better to replant an old bush in the spring. It is necessary to dig up bushes that have already grown to 15 centimeters. Using a sharp knife, it is divided into several parts, each having 2-3 shoots. The cut areas are treated with charcoal.

The roots are cleared of soil and old deformed parts are removed. Then the divisions are planted in pots with a mixture of fertile land, humus and sand. It is better to place the pots in a greenhouse for two weeks. And only after this the shoots are transplanted into the ground to a new permanent place.

After transplanting, new plants need to be fed and watered well. Preparing a permanent place for a transplanted plant is the same as when planting.

Important! Even before transplanting into open soil, the delphinium can throw out the peduncle. It must be removed.

Plant propagation

It is easy to propagate delphinium; even a novice gardener can do this process.

Reproduction methods

There are several methods of propagation - growing delphinium from seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush. The simplest is propagation by seeds, the most labor-intensive is by cuttings.

Propagation of delphinium by seeds

Different varieties can be planted from seeds available in flower shops. You can also collect seeds from the plant.

After collecting or after purchasing (it is better to buy them in the fall), the seeds must be kept for several months in a cool place, preferably in the refrigerator.

They can be planted in March. To do this, prepare a container with a mixture of humus, fertile soil and sand. The soil needs to be moistened and furrows made on it. Delphinium seeds are very small, so they do not need to be buried in the soil. You can simply scatter their grooves and sprinkle a few millimeters of earth on top.

After a month, the seedlings are thinned out to a distance of about 8 centimeters from each other.

Plants are planted in open ground in May.

Important! Reproduction terry varieties seeds will not give new plants maternal characteristics.

At the end of April, when the bushes have grown 15 centimeters after winter, they are dug up and divided into several parts with 2-3 shoots each.

Delphinium propagation by cuttings

Despite the labor-intensive process, this method is very effective; it allows you to preserve the mother plant itself and its species characteristics.

It is better to propagate delphinium by cuttings taken from young plants. To do this in the spring, when the stems have grown a little (up to about 15 centimeters), you need to cut the cuttings at the very root. For quick rooting, you can treat them with growth stimulants.

The cuttings are planted in loose, fertile soil in a container that can be placed in a greenhouse. If planting is done directly into the garden bed, it is better to cover the cuttings with jars. In this case, the plants need to be ventilated regularly.

Cuttings need light shade and watering. After 14 days they need to be fed with complex fertilizers.

Rooting of cuttings occurs by the end of summer, then they can be planted in a permanent place.

Flowering plant

The flowering time of delphinium depends on the region where it is bred. In warm regions it blooms as early as May and can produce a second bloom towards the end of summer. In the temperate zone, flowering begins in June and continues into July.

Delphinium blooms with very beautiful flowers, mostly in blue and light blue shades. Some varieties are red, pink or white. The flowers are simple, double or semi-double, forming long, dense inflorescences.

Problems, diseases and pests of a flower

Delphiniums can be affected by fungal diseases:

• Powdery mildew. The sign is the appearance of a gray coating on the leaves. If left untreated, the leaves turn brown and die. Prevention - avoid getting water on the leaves or trunk when watering. Treat with 1% lime sulphide.
• Downy mildew. Sign: spots appear on the upper leaves yellow color and on the bottom of the leaf in the same place there is a gray coating. First of all, it is necessary to thin out the bush and then treat it with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
• Root collar rot. The sign is yellowing of the leaves and the formation of fungal mycelium in the root zone. The plant is easily pulled out of the ground, as its root system will die. It is treated with a formaldehyde solution - spraying and disinfecting the soil.

Viral infections:

• Aster jaundice. Signs: leaves turn yellow and flowers take on a greenish tint. First of all, it is necessary to destroy aphids as carriers of infection. Sick plants are destroyed; the rest need careful loosening of the soil.
• Ring spot or mosaic. Signs - the formation of yellow or yellow spots on the leaves. Brown, drying and falling of leaves. Slow growth. It cannot be treated and the plant is destroyed.

Pests:

• Delphinium fly. Lays larvae in buds. They eat the flower from the inside, so it quickly crumbles and does not produce seeds. Spraying with hexachlorane is necessary during the formation of buds
• Slugs. They eat leaves. Thorough loosening of the soil and weeding are necessary.

Popular types (varieties)

Princess Caroline

• Very beautiful variety with pink double flowers, growing up to 2 meters in height. Large flowers can reach 10 centimeters in diameter.

Pink butterfly

Delicate, butterfly-like flowers with open wings Pink colour and the low growth of the bush (no more than 1 meter) make this variety especially in demand in landscape design.

Snow lace

An unusually spectacular delphinium variety with snow-white flowers with a dark eye. This variety has a very pleasant aroma during flowering.

Delphinium terry

It is distinguished by long and lush flowering from May to August. The flowers have a wide variety of shades. Although in some places you can find delphiniums even in black, red and yellow.

Delphinium is not an easy flower to care for, but you can avoid mistakes in growing it by following a few tips:

• Delphiniums respond very well to organic fertilizers, in particular manure. It can be scattered under bushes in spring and autumn;
• The plant needs constant weeding from weeds and loosening of the soil;
• To prevent fungal diseases of delphinium, it is good to sprinkle the leaves with ash;
• It is best to collect seeds in dry, warm weather from slightly unripe, brown-colored capsules.

Answers to readers' questions

• Plant lifespan

The delphinium grows well in one place for the first 4-6 years. Then it must be replanted.

• Why does delphinium grow poorly?

Perhaps a dimly lit place in the garden has been chosen. The plant should be inspected for diseases or pests that are slowing down the plant's growth. There may be other errors in care that can only be determined experimentally.

• Why do the leaves turn yellow (dry)?

Leaves may turn yellow and dry out due to diseases.

Since ancient times, back in Ancient Greece, a talented sculptor made an excellent statue of his deceased lover and brought life into her. But the gods were angry with him for this and made him a dolphin. The girl he created cried a lot for him on the coast and somehow a beautiful dolphin swam up to her and laid a delightful flower at her feet, which was later called delphinium.

This plant belongs to the ranunculaceae family. There are approximately 400 all kinds of. It can be either an annual or a perennial flower. Flower colors can be varied, including white, blue or purple, etc. The inflorescences are collected on a large peduncle and always delight with their beauty. Sometimes you can find small petals inside the flowers, which differ in color from the sepals. They look like “eyes” that have opened, looking in surprise at the world around them. They are called staminodes and are used to attract pollinating insects. This property is observed only in the simplest varieties.

delphinium flower loves ultraviolet rays, and it must be protected from the influence of wind. On very hot days it can burn, so it is advisable to plant it in places where there is shade for at least two or three hours during the day. Basically, all types of delphinium have a branched root structure, which is easy to position in a horizontal position. Every year, young pagons take root, from which new plants grow.

In the south of Russia it blooms somewhere in May or June, then it can bloom again in the fall. A little further north, flowering is possible from June 15 to July 31, and also in the fall, and it will bloom again only when you cut off all the flower stalks after its initial flowering. Delphinium is a fairly winter-hardy and hardy plant, as it can withstand temperatures down to minus 40 C. Thaws are not safe for it, because the rhizomes are close to earth's crust and they can come out. Therefore, it is recommended not to plant the flower in places where the snow will melt first in the spring.

Delphinium perennial, description and characteristics of the best varieties

There are different types of delphinium. At first, only two types of perennial delphinium were bred - large-flowered delphinium and tall delphinium. But then hybrids appeared, and now there are plenty of them, and each of them belongs to one of five categories:

1. Belladonna is a representative of the “drooping inflorescence (panicle).
2. Elatum stands out for its excellent variety of different shades.
3. Pacific hybrids are tall plants up to 2 m with dense semi-double inflorescences.
4. Marfin hybrids reach up to 2 m in height, are very strong and have delicate semi-double flowers.

The most striking of all delphinium varieties are:

1. Princess Caroline is the most attractive delphinium. It grows up to 2 m in height, and flowers up to 10 cm in diameter. Has a lovely pink color.
2. Snow lace is an excellent delphinium. It grows up to 1.5 m. It has an unusual white color and a luxurious appearance.
3. Pink butterfly is a low bush up to 1 m. It has bright flowers that resemble a butterfly. Excellently popular among landscape design.

Delphinium propagation

Delphinium can be propagated by cuttings, dividing the bush or planting seeds.

Cutting the bush along the root system You can practice in the spring and you need to take plants for this. who are at least three years old. To do this, dig up bushes not exceeding 15 cm and carefully divide them into several parts so that each of them has 1-2 buds. It is best to sprinkle the cut areas with activated carbon. The roots are cleared of soil, damaged ones are cut off and washed in water.

Then the already divided small bushes are planted into the soil with a nutrient mixture, which includes sand, humus, peat, etc. They are then placed in a warm place, and after a couple of weeks they are planted in open ground. It is adopted very quickly to such an extent that a recently planted bush can already bloom, but for further full growth it is better to prune the inflorescences.

Cuttings are also planted in the spring. For planting, shoots from 10 to 14 cm are cut off in such a way as to capture a small root about two or three centimeters in size. The cut cuttings are planted in the ground in a shaded place and after a couple of weeks they are transplanted permanently. They can be rooted around the house by placing them in boxes or pots. They need to be misted for at least three days and watered regularly.

Delphinium seeds are also planted in the spring. They are processed in advance and kept in the cold, so to speak, undergo stratification. You need to collect the seeds in the fall and place them in the refrigerator, and then sow them in March. For planting, the soil is prepared by filling it with a nutrient mixture of humus, sand and black soil. Then make small depressions (0.3-0.5 cm) between which a distance of 6-7 cm should be maintained and seeds are sown in them. then they are covered with soil and moistened with a sprayer. A month later, the seedlings are thinned out so that there is 6-7 cm between the sprouts. In May, the young plants are planted in open ground.

Delphinium perennial: planting and care

Delphinium needs slightly acidic or neutral soil, and most importantly, it feels good in loose soil, which is fertilized with peat, humus (compost), providing maximum care for the soil. If your soil has low acidity, then you can add up to 0.15 kg of slaked lime per square meter.

In the fall, the soil is fertilized and the soil is dug up along with fertilizers (for example, 7 kg of nutrient mixture per 1 square meter). It is necessary to dig again and add fertilizers again, such as potassium salt in the amount of 60 g, ammonium sulfate up to 40 g and superphosphate 70 g per square meter. Due to the fact that the soil is fertilized, these plants will be well accepted and develop, and in the future they do not need much care.

They are planted in holes, the depth of which is approximately 40-50 cm, and the distance between them depends on the size of the plant itself. When planting, fertilizers are also applied in equal parts with the soil. First, the hole is filled halfway, and after 2-3 days, when the soil and fertilizing settle, young plants are planted.

Two years after planting, thanks to high-quality care, the delphinium exhibits the highest qualities, namely, it grows strongly and blooms luxuriantly. It is necessary to thin it out to ensure good and full growth, removing shoots growing in the middle. When the delphinium reaches a height of 50-70 cm, it must be tied up so that its fragile stems do not break in strong windy weather.

In general, the delphinium flower loves moisture very much, but you shouldn’t overdo it either. In the fall, when it fades, you need to prune it, leaving shoots of 20 or 25 centimeters, which will protect the rhizomes from rotting in the spring during the thaw and ensure normal care for it.

Pest and disease control

Name of pest or disease	General signs	Fighting methods
Fungal diseases
1. Powdery mildew	Characterized by the appearance on the leaves white plaque. At the next stage of the disease, the leaves turn brown and die	Spray with 1% solution of gas sulfur or 1-2% lime sulphide
2. Downy mildew	There are yellow oil stains on the surface of the leaves, and back side white coating	It is necessary to thin out the plant and spray with Bordeaux mixture
3. Root rot	Yellow leaves. There may be mycelium or other fungus at the base of the root. The plant withers and is easily pulled out of the ground	Drainage and loosening of the soil is recommended. Sterilize with 2% formaldehyde (15 liters per 1 square meter). You can spray with 0.5% formaldehyde
Bacterial diseases
1. Erwinia (withering)	The lower leaves turn yellow. The root has brown or black spots and is soft. The stems turn black.	Water with a 0.5% solution of formalin or sublimate. seeds are processed hot water up to +50 C
2. Black spots on leaves	Stains irregular shape, first cover all the leaves, and then the stem	Sprayed in early spring with a 0.5% solution of mercuric chloride, and then with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. You can pollinate with 0.2% plantasol
Viral diseases
1. Jaundice	Greening of flowers, dwarfism, irregularly shaped inflorescences, yellow leaves	Control of aphids and weeds, removal of diseased shoots
2. Mosaic and ring spot	The leaves have ring-shaped yellow patterns that can reach up to 1 cm in diameter.	Remove painful shoots and follow growing rules
3. Fly	In May-June it lays eggs in buds. Its larvae eat up the stamens, pistils, petals and, as a result, the flowers quickly crumble and do not produce seeds.	Pollinate plants at the moment of setting buds with hexchlorane
4. Slugs	They eat the leaves of the young	Loosen the soil, remove weeds, sprinkle with potassium salt or superphosphate

Delphinium is one of the most beloved and desired garden plants. Slender, with bright emerald leaves, impressive with flowering columns and pleasing to the eye. It is distinguished by its height, slenderness and splendor. Known to people since ancient times.

According to one legend, the gods turned a gifted young sculptor into a dolphin just because he revived the sculpture of a deceased girl with whom he was in love. Every evening the dolphin swam to the shore with a bouquet in its mouth, and in memory of his love, he threw this flower at the girl’s feet.

The second myth tells about the battle under the walls of Troy. The arrow that hit Achilles' heel wounded him. Falling drops of blood gave life to these magnificent flowers. According to Russian belief, they have healing properties and help quickly heal bones in case of fractures and injuries. Most peoples called the delphinium spur because the upper petal of its bud looks like a spur.

And now many admire the mesmerizing spectacle of blooming delphiniums, which from a distance resemble multi-colored stelae soaring upward. The genus delphinium, spur, or Larkspur unites about 400 species of herbaceous annuals and perennials, forming massive terminal clusters or paniculate inflorescences, which are valued for their long flowering.

Description of delphinium

Delphinium photo of flowers in a flower bed

Wild delphinium lives in all corners of the world and belongs to the buttercup family. Elegant, branched, hollow inside stems reach a height of 2 m. The leaves are rounded, palmately dissected. The color of the buds is ultramarine, blue, violet, pink, lilac, white. Simple flowers consist of five petals, and in double petals their number is increased due to modified stamens. The unopened bud of delphinium looks like the head or body of a dolphin - hence its name.

Blooms in June and again, with proper care, in August. All varieties and hybrids of delphinium are used as high-quality cut crops - they last a long time in a vase. This luxurious flower will decorate any flower garden.

Growing delphinium in open ground

Delphinium prefers open areas, but in bright sun the petals may fade. Light midday shade is only good for him. Its location near the walls of buildings and fences will protect it from lodging in the wind and will protect it from scorching rays.

These plants require fertilized soil, rich in organic matter, moisture-permeable soil, and painstaking care. In damp places, drainage is arranged from expanded clay or grooves are made for outflow excess moisture. Prefers loamy, loose soils with a neutral reaction. It is grown in one place for several years.

Plant in a sunny area or light shade. When preparing the soil for planting, organic and mineral fertilizers (phosphorus-potassium) are applied. During the entire period, water abundantly and periodically feed. The soil is constantly loosened and mulched with peat or compost, which helps retain moisture and serves as additional nutrition.

In spring, the weakest shoots are cut off and used for cuttings. They stimulate the formation of new flowers by regularly removing fading inflorescences. Tall plants require reliable support, since the stems easily break even with a slight wind. In autumn, perennial species are pruned at the root and hilled up so that water does not get inside the hollow stems, as this can lead to the death of the plant. If pruning is done in the spring, simply break the stems to close the cavity inside.

Reproduction of delphinium by dividing the bush

The most reliable and productive way is to divide adult bushes. This is done during a planned transplant in the spring before the start of the growing season. The dug out root is cut into pieces, each of which has a growing point and a root. The sections are dried and sprinkled with ash. Place them at a distance of at least 40 cm from each other in pre-prepared holes.

You can divide the plant without digging after sprouts appear or after flowering. To do this, the shovel is driven into the location of the desired cut until it stops. The part that they want to plant is dug around the circumference, carefully pulled out and transferred to the desired area. Add fresh nutrient soil to the vacant space. Water everything thoroughly and shade until they take root.

Growing delphinium from seeds for seedlings and sowing in the ground

Delphinium seeds photo How to sow delphinium

Annuals and biennials are propagated by sowing seeds in autumn and spring. Seeds quickly lose their viability - when purchasing, you should pay attention to the timing - the closer to the deadline, the less chance of getting seedlings. To stimulate germination, you can treat the seeds with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (1 teaspoon per 100 ml of water) for 30 minutes.

Sowing seedlings

How to grow delphinium from seeds Photo of seedlings

When to sow delphinium? At the end of March - beginning of April, seedling boxes, containers or individual cups are prepared. The seeds are large enough that you can plant them one at a time without any problems.

• Prepare nutritious loose soil; a soil mixture is perfect for flowering plants.
• Containers or cups must have drainage holes.
• Seed placement depth is 0.5-1 cm.
• The distance between seeds is at least 2-3 cm when sowing in a common container.
• Moisturize moderately, using a spray bottle so that there is no excess moisture.
• Cover with film and ventilate daily, removing condensation.
• When shoots appear, it is better to remove the film.
• When 2-3 true leaves appear, plants are planted in separate cups.
• Seedlings need to be hardened off a couple of weeks before planting in the ground. Take it out to Fresh air, let him get used to the sun and wind. When she can spend the night, the plants are ready to plant.

It is necessary to replant into a flowerbed when the temperature has already established above zero in order to avoid freezing by night frosts. The distance between the bushes is left 30-40 cm so that the plants develop well.

Sowing in the ground

Seeds are sown at the end of March - beginning of April in a greenhouse to obtain flowering specimens already in the year of sowing or in May in open ground. You can sow them before winter or in winter in boxes that are buried under the snow to obtain friendly shoots in the spring. Seedlings sprout at the 2-4 leaf stage and are regularly watered and fed.

Plants of most varieties (if they are hybrids) grown from seeds may not convey the decorative qualities of the parent individuals, so the seed method is rarely used. But with this method you can get several colors of different qualities at once. Most hybrids are propagated by cuttings taken from the lower part of the flowering stem in early spring.

Delphinium cuttings photo

Young shoots about 10 cm long are cut. The lower sections are treated with a root formation stimulator. For this purpose, you can use ordinary agave. The bottom leaf is torn off from an adult plant and placed in the refrigerator for 5 days. After this, a few drops of juice are squeezed out of it and the lower parts of the cuttings are moistened with it, which are then placed in containers with well-moistened sand or vermiculite. You can use Kornevin and similar drugs.

The containers are covered with transparent lids or placed in a plastic bag to maintain sufficient humidity. The appearance of young leaves indicates successful rooting. Grown seedlings are transferred to a permanent place at the end of summer to give them the opportunity to finally take root before the onset of cold weather. Typically, delphiniums tolerate midland winters well; only young seedlings require shelter from dry peat, moss or sawdust.

Pests and diseases of delphinium

Delphinium is a rather delicate plant, susceptible to attack by leaf-eating insects. Some diseases cause yellowing and deformation of leaves. Among the diseases, powdery mildew and some rots are dangerous; to limit the spread of diseases, they resort to soil disinfection using a solution of potassium permanganate.

Fusarium infection and bacterial diseases, causing cancer and rot, leading to wilting of plants. When they appear, treat the plants with special fungicides. Aphids sucking plant sap contribute to the spread of viral diseases. Thrips provoke the formation of silvery spots on leaves and flowers.

Damage is also caused by coleopterous cutworms, which are eliminated with the help of special insecticides. As a preventive measure against insects and diseases, use ammonia (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) or tar water (1 tablespoon of pharmaceutical birch tar is stirred in 5 liters of water, add a little to this mixture laundry soap), solutions of which are used to water the plants themselves and the ground around them.

These products repel many insects, and ammonia also serves as an excellent additional foliar feeding. Because of its toxicity, delphinium was almost never used as a medicine in ancient times; only in the Middle Ages did doctors use its tincture to heal wounds. In magic it was used to protect against love spells or as a talisman.

A dried blue delphinium flower was worn in a small bag or amulet around the neck, protecting it from prying eyes. It was believed that such a talisman served as protection against nightmares and insomnia. All varieties of delphinium are ideal for cutting. This is a very impressive plant, used for planting in groups, in flowerbeds, ridges, mixborders and in single plantings against the background of a lawn or buildings. And as a tapeworm plant it is excellent.

Types of delphinium with photos and descriptions

New Zealand delphiniums in garden design photo

Numerous hybrids are divided into three large groups: ‘belladonna’, ‘pacific’, ‘erect’. The latter includes most perennial plants, grown in our gardens. They have delightful compact inflorescences of single, semi-double or double flowers.

Delphinium belladonna

Delphinium belladonna photo of flowers in the garden

Delphinium belladonna reaches a height of 0.9-1.2 m. The erect perennial has beautiful spike-shaped flowers. It has loose, branching inflorescences, grows quickly and blooms for a long time.

Delphinium tall Delphinium elatum

Delphinium tall Delphinium elatum photo of flowers in the garden

A perennial, stable specimen, 70 cm high, with deeply dissected leaves and azure buds.

Delphinium consolida

Delphinium field Delphinium consolida photo of flowers in a flowerbed

An annual plant up to 2 m high.

Delphinium grandiflorum

Delphinium grandiflorum photo of flowers in the garden

Herbaceous plant with shortened rhizome up to 100 cm tall.

Delphinium hybrids

Delphinium Pacific Giants Delphinium Pacific Giants photo of flowers in the garden

Hybrids of the ‘Pacific’ group (Pacific) include numerous annuals and biennials. The most common flower crop is the hybrid delphinium, obtained by crossing different species with each other. Modern varieties differ in shape, size of leaves and flowers, as well as bush height. Pacific hybrids are less adapted to cold winters and require more careful care. Even in much warmer Europe they are grown as biennials.

Delphinium New Zealand in landscape design photo flowers

New Zealand hybrids are characterized by excellent frost resistance, ease of care and long flowering - this is an excellent option for decorating a suburban area.

Delphinium hybrid Marfinica photo of flowers in the garden

Marfin hybrids are very popular among flower growers, because they are perfectly adapted to the realities of our weather. In terms of quality and decorative indicators, they are not inferior to foreign varieties. They form neat bushes that produce large panicles of columnar-shaped inflorescences with semi-double flowers of various colors; they attract attention from afar with their splendor.

Delphinium is a poisonous plant

Delphinium planting and care in open ground Photo in a flower bed

All parts of the plant are poisonous because they contain an alkaloid that is widely used in medicine. If ingested, they can cause serious gastrointestinal upset. And contact with leaves, especially in persons with particularly sensitive skin, causes skin irritation and allergic dermatitis. Therefore, when working with delphinium, it is necessary to protect your hands and bare parts of the body from getting juice.

Delphinium (larkspur, spur) is a popular flower crop of the Ranunculaceae family.

Thanks to its spectacular bright inflorescences, delphinium looks good as a background plant in group flower plantings.

In addition to its beauty, spur is very unpretentious in care, drought- and frost-resistant, and re-blooms after trimming faded inflorescences.

Delphinium perennial: choosing a location, planting methods

How to choose a place to plant delphinium?

The place for planting the delphinium should be well lit, but shaded from direct sunlight at midday. In an area unprotected from the sun, delphinium flowers will turn pale and lose their decorative effect. Due to the fact that tall shoots of delphinium can be easily damaged by strong winds (they easily break off at the base), choose a place for planting that is less windy and open: under the canopy of trees or next to bushes, a fence, or the wall of a house.

Larkspur grows well in loose, fertilized soils. On light sandy loams, flowering will be paler and less abundant. In heavy clay areas it is necessary to add sand and humus. Acidic, waterlogged soils are not suitable for growing delphinium.

Methods for planting delphinium

The most in simple ways Delphinium plantings include planting divisions and cuttings.

Growing delphinium from seeds is a more labor-intensive process, because... at long-term storage seeds lose their viability. This explains the low or even zero results when sowing purchased seeds. It is safer to use seed material from your own collection. However, we must remember that plants grown from seeds often do not retain the varietal characteristics of the mother plant (especially with regard to color and terry).

Planting seeds in open ground

Seeds are sown in open ground in May or September (under film). To do this, make small grooves in the prepared soil in the garden bed and sow the seeds, sprinkling them with a thin (no more than 5 mm) layer of sand or earth. If planting was done in the fall, the seeds will undergo natural stratification and the germination rate will be higher. Shoots appear in 3-4 weeks.

Planting seeds for seedlings

IN room conditions Seeds for seedlings are sown in March. The soil for this purpose is loose and nutritious. After distributing the seeds on it, they are sprinkled with a 3 mm layer of earth and compacted so that they do not float up during the first watering. It is necessary to water carefully, preferably through a strainer.

After this, the bowl with the plantings is covered with a dark film or other covering material, because delphinium seeds germinate better in the dark.

Delphinium crops must be covered with light-proof material

The optimal temperature for germination is +10-15C. To speed up the emergence of seedlings, you can carry out stratification (exposure to cold): a container with seeds is placed in a refrigerator or balcony for a week at a temperature of +5C. After this, it is moved again to the windowsill. During this period, we must not forget to ventilate the crops, remove excess condensation from the film, and moisten the soil in a timely manner.

Shoots appear within 1-2 weeks. It is important not to miss this moment to remove the covering film. Picking is carried out when there are 1-2 true leaves. Seedlings are planted in open ground in late May - early June. These plants will bloom in August.

Planting rhizome cuttings

To propagate delphinium by rhizome, bushes 3-5 years old are used. Division is carried out in early spring before active growth begins or in late August-early September after the end of the first wave of flowering. The rhizomes are divided into parts so that each of them has at least one growth bud. The sections are dusted with charcoal powder.

Divided delphinium bush

In the selected area, dig holes 50x40 cm. The excavated soil is mixed with humus and peat, and poured back. Add 50g of mineral fertilizers and a handful to each hole wood ash. When planting, the root collar is left at ground level. After this, the plants are watered, weeds are regularly weeded and the ground is loosened. The distance between bushes is planned based on the variety and type:

50-60 cm – for tall hybrids (height more than 1.5 m);

40-50 cm – for medium-sized people (1.2-1.5 m);

30-40 cm – for short people (0.8-1.2 m).

Planting cuttings

For cuttings, young shoots that have reached 10-15 cm in height are used. In the spring, the cuttings are broken out along with the “heel” at the base of the plant and rooted in a mini-greenhouse at a temperature of +25C and bright, diffused lighting. After the cuttings have taken root (about 3-4 weeks), they are planted in open ground.

Delphinium perennial: care

Delphinium is unpretentious in care and cultivation. Caring for it consists of watering, weeding, early thinning, fertilizing and tying up.

Watering

Delphinium is quite drought-resistant and does not like excess moisture, but during the formation of inflorescences it must be watered abundantly so that not only the upper, but also the deeper layers of the soil are saturated with moisture. Here we must follow the rule: quality is better than quantity. It happens that with abundant watering and intense heat, bald (without flowers) areas may appear in the inflorescences. The use of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers during the budding period will help to minimize such manifestations.

Thinning and pruning

In the second year of the growing season, the delphinium produces a lot of shoots, therefore, in order for it to bloom profusely with large flowers, it is necessary to thin out the bush of the plant. This is done in the spring when the stems reach 20-40 cm. 5-10 (depending on the variety) strong shoots are left in the bush. For better air circulation, first remove unproductive stems in the inner part of the bush.

Instead of such thinning, you can cut off excess growth buds in the fall. As a result of this procedure, nutrition in the spring will flow to the remaining buds, which will develop at an accelerated pace. If the shoots are removed with the heel (a piece of rhizome), then they can be used as cuttings for propagating larkspur.

In order not to stimulate the growth of new shoots this year and thereby not weaken the plant before wintering, in the summer the inflorescences on the shoots are cut off as they fade. In the fall, after the plant has flowered and its leaves have dried, the stems are cut off completely at a height of 30 cm from the ground. If you cut them shorter, the likelihood of root rot increases - delphinium stems have a hollow structure and after pruning in the spring, melt water easily flows down them to the rhizome. To prevent this, experienced gardeners cover the top of the cut with clay.

Garter

The delphinium has its own Achilles heel - this is the junction of the stem and rhizome, which when strong wind breaks easily. Therefore, as the bush grows, it is tied up in 2 places: at a height of 0.4-0.5 m and 1-1.2 m. Varieties with heavy inflorescences are also tied in the middle part (0.7-0.8 m).

Rings on racks work well as support.

Wintering

Delphiniums easily endure winter, withstanding frosts down to –40°C under the snow. Alternating thaws and frosts have a detrimental effect on this crop - its root system is located close to the surface of the earth and easily rots out. In the absence of snow cover, delphinium bushes can be covered with spruce branches.

Delphinium perennial: feeding

During the entire growing season, delphiniums are fed three times.

The first feeding is carried out in early spring, when the shoots have reached 15-20 cm in height: per 1 sq.m. it will take 10-15g ammonium nitrate, 20-30g of potassium chloride and 30-40g of ammonium sulfate. Fertilizers are mixed and scattered around the delphinium bushes. Instead of these fertilizers, you can use mullein infusion (1:10) as a source of nitrogen - 1 bucket for 5 adult bushes. When forming buds, plants need potassium, but the nitrogen content should be reduced.

During the second feeding per 1 sq. m of soil, the dose of superphosphate and potassium is doubled compared to the first application. For the third time (at the end or after flowering), only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers with microelements without nitrogen are applied to the spur bushes.

Delphinium perennial: pests and diseases

Delphiniums are especially strongly affected by various diseases under unfavorable weather conditions: prolonged rains, prolonged drought. Therefore, the fight against pests and pathogens begins at the first signs of their appearance.

The palm in terms of prevalence is taken by powdery mildew. It progresses rapidly at high humidity and low air temperatures. Its signs are a powdery whitish coating on the leaves, which subsequently turns brown. To combat this disease, plants are sprayed with fungicidal preparations (copper sulfate, colloidal sulfur, Fundazol, ProfitGold, Topaz, Fitosporin-M).

Another common disease of fungal etiology is ramulariasis. It is characterized by the appearance of a large number of brown spots on the leaves of the delphinium.

Manifestation of ramularia on delphinium leaves

With further development of the disease, the spots become light gray with a dark rim along the edges and merge, forming extensive necrotic areas on the foliage. As a result, the leaves die prematurely and the plant is depressed. The spores of the pathogen overwinter on plant debris, so they must be collected and burned.

If various black spots appear on the spur bushes, then these are signs of a bacterial disease - black spot. The spots form first on the lower tiers of leaves, gradually “rising” up the plant. The stems of the larkspur turn brown and dry out.

Black spot on lower leaves delphinium

Early treatment will help save the plant. It is sprayed three times with copper-containing preparations: Oxychom, Bordeaux mixture, Previkur, Fundazol, Topaz. Between treatments, the ground under the bushes can be shed with a solution of Fitosporin-M, and the above-ground part of the plant with Baikal-M.

Of the viral diseases on delphinium, it is often found ring spot, which looks like yellowish spots in the shape of irregular rings. Leaves become chlorotic.

Delphinium leaf affected by ringspot

This disease cannot be treated, so the diseased plant is removed and burned. The carrier of ringspot is aphids. To combat it, insecticides are used (Iskra, Fitoverm, Inta-vir, karbofos, biotlin, etc.).

Another malicious pest of this crop is delphinium fly, which lays eggs in buds. After hatching, the larvae damage the flowers by feeding on the stamens and pistils. Damaged flowers fall off prematurely and do not bear fruit.

Seedlings and succulent young shoots of delphinium are severely damaged slugs and snails. To combat them, traps are used, mechanical barriers are arranged around the beds, and granular metaldehyde is used as a chemical.

source

Delphinium, also known as spur or larkspur, is especially loved by gardeners - it is one of the few herbaceous plants for open ground, the flowers of which are naturally colored in various shades of blue.

Planting and caring for perennial delphinium requires increased attention, careful preparation and consistency. Difficulties can be overcome if you use the proposed instructions and advice.

Preparing to plant delphinium in open ground

Spur is considered a capricious flower, the success of growing which depends on correctly carried out preparatory measures.

Landing dates

Plants can be planted/transplanted in spring (April-May) or autumn (from late August to mid-September).

Growing delphinium from seedlings is the most optimal method, suitable for any region. Sowing of seeds is carried out two months before the intended movement of young plants to flower beds. Yes, for the middle zone best time- mid-March, in southern regions- second half of February, Siberia and the Urals - beginning of April.

Gardeners in the south do not bother with germinating seedlings, sowing seeds directly into open ground. The right time For sowing, the first half of April or from the second half of September to mid-October is considered.

Choosing a location on the site

If you choose the right place where it is best to plant the delphinium, the handsome openwork will show itself in all its glory:

1. Good lighting. It is better to plant where the sun shines in the morning and late afternoon, and where there is shade at midday. Delphinium tolerates heat well, but the flowers of brightly colored varieties fade under the sun and lose their attractiveness and decorativeness.
2. Wind protection. Most varieties are tall, the hollow stems of these plants easily break under gusts of wind. However, almost all garden flowers do not like drafty places.
3. No moisture stagnation. Rain or melt water that is not absorbed into the soil for a long time contributes to rotting of the roots.
4. Soil preparation
5. The ideal soil for larkspur is moderately moist loam or sandy loam, rich in organic matter, neutral or slightly acidic.

Soil preparation

Clay areas are corrected: sand take 1-2 buckets/sq.m, mineral complexes - 50-80 g/sq.m, compost or humus - 20-25 kg/sq.m.

Depleted soils are enriched per square: minerals - 40-50 g; organic - 10-15 kg.

The acidic soil is limed, and granulated sulfur (30-50 g/sq.m.) is added to the alkaline soil.

• dig up the soil using the bayonet of a shovel;
• lay out a 20-centimeter layer of drainage;
• mix the excavated soil with rotted compost (1 bucket), ash (2 cups), bone meal(1 cup) and superphosphate (2 tbsp) per 1 sq.m.

The flowerbed turns out to be elevated, which the delphiniums like.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Spurs are planted by seeds or vegetatively, that is, by cuttings or “divisions” of the rhizome. Vegetative method definitely produces pure-bred offspring. It is better to buy seeds for sowing from famous manufacturers: agricultural firms “Aelita”, “Gavrish”, “SeDek”, “Poisk”, etc.

Cuttings and “divisions” are taken from 2-3-year-old queen cells.

Seed preparation algorithm:

1. Disinfection in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, Maxim or Fitosporin preparations for 20 minutes.
2. The treated seeds are washed with running water.
3. Then soak in water for a day with the addition of a few drops of Zircon or Epin. The drugs can be replaced with folk remedies - aloe, honey.
4. The soaked seeds, wrapped in a damp cloth, are placed in a container and put away for stratification (i.e., in the refrigerator). The napkin in which the seeds are wrapped must remain moist, but not “float” in the water, otherwise the seeds will suffocate and die.
5. Stratification continues until the seeds hatch. Then the bundle is moved to a well-lit windowsill and kept under a phytolamp for several days.
6. Then the material is sown in seedling containers or in open ground.

Another method for preparing seeds: after disinfection, they are wrapped in a damp cloth and packaged in plastic bag and dig it in the area for a couple of weeks. The method is applicable at low (around 0°C) temperatures.

Landing technique

Successful germination of seeds and further care for seedlings completely depend on the accuracy of the technology.

Sowing seedlings

To please the capricious “king of the flower garden” from the first year vigorous flowering, follow the following instructions sequentially:

1. Determine the timing of sowing. They begin to sow in February if there is equipment for additional illumination of the seedlings, otherwise wait for an increase in the length of daylight hours.
2. Pre-sowing seed treatment is carried out.
3. Select containers for sowing. Quickly decomposing individual pots where one seed is sown is not the best option. The root system of the seedling does not immediately absorb the soil, which can lead to souring. It is optimal to sow in shallow seedling containers with drainage holes.
4. On a note! A good option- disposable packaging for food products. If it has already been used, it must be disinfected.
5. Prepare the substrate. Purchased soil is suitable: universal for seedlings or succulents. Mix peat, garden or garden soil, humus or compost, sand (2:4:2:1). The mixture is sifted, perlite is added (1 cup/10 liters of soil mixture).
6. Disinfect the soil by heating it in the oven for an hour. Purchased soil is spilled with a solution of “Fitosporin” or “Fitolavina”.
7. Fill the containers with the prepared substrate, tamping it lightly.
8. The seeds are laid out on the surface, without deepening or pressing down.
9. Sprinkle with a thin layer of soil mixture or vermiculite.
10. Cover with a lid or cover with cling film.
11. The container with the crops is placed in a cool, dark place.

Spur shoots appear by the middle of the 2nd week. Gardeners advise checking the crops daily from 6-7 days in order to immediately transfer the seedlings to a warmer place. The film or cover can be removed.

Seedlings are grown under the following conditions:

• moist soil;
• daylight hours 12-14 hours;
• temperature regime 18-20°C.

Seedlings dive at the stage of two true leaves. Place the sprouts in separate small glasses. The substrate is taken as for germination, adding complete mineral complex 2 tbsp/10 l of substrate.

After picking, the temperature and light conditions do not change. The first watering of seedlings is carried out after a week, if during the transplanting process the soil was abundantly moistened.

Before planting in the flower bed, the seedlings are fed with complex mineral fertilizers (Agricola, Fertika Plus, etc.) every two weeks.

Attention! Root feeding; if the solution gets on the leaves, it should be washed off immediately with water.

Sowing in the ground

Direct sowing of spur grass seeds is carried out from the second half of April. For this purpose, a special garden bed is being prepared:

• the soil is dug up to a depth of about 30 cm;
• apply complex fertilizers;
• make shallow grooves, about one and a half centimeters;
• pour plenty of water;
• seeds are laid out in the grooves;
• sprinkle with dry substrate.

In order for the seeds to germinate faster and more easily, the crops are covered with agrofibre or a black (dark) film. The crops are periodically moistened, preventing the soil from drying out. The cover is removed after germination - at 3-4 weeks. During the first season, seedlings are watered moderately, fed twice a month, the soil is loosened and weeds are removed. In winter, the garden bed is covered with spruce branches so that the young plants do not freeze. In the spring of the second year, the young shoots of the spur are transplanted to a prepared permanent place.

Caring for delphinium in open ground

Activities related to plant care are not difficult, the main rule is regularity.

Watering

During the growing season, one plant needs 65 liters of water. When there is little rainfall in the summer, 2-3 buckets of water are poured weekly under each bush. More frequent, but less abundant watering is required at the stage of inflorescence formation. If there is a lack of moisture, some of the buds do not develop properly, and empty spaces appear in the inflorescence.

Note! Water the delphinium strictly at the root; surface watering does not benefit the plant. It is undesirable for water to get on the green parts of the plant - stems, leaves.

In late autumn, if there is little precipitation, water abundantly so that preparation for winter takes place without complications.

After each watering, when the soil dries, loosening is carried out.

Trimming

The first time pruning is done when the stems grow to 30 cm. The flower stalks are thinned out according to the following scheme: for plants blooming for the first time, 2 stems are left; adults – 4-5.

Side shoots of tapeworm plants are removed. They are left in delphiniums growing in mixed plantings.

Faded shoots are removed so that the plant does not waste energy on the formation and ripening of seeds.

Before winter, cut off the last flower stalks at a height of 30 cm.

Top dressing

During the season, fertilizing is applied twice:

• early spring - urea (2 tbsp), potassium sulfate (2 tbsp) and superphosphate (1 tbsp) per square;
• before flowering, 1 tbsp. l. potassium and phosphate fertilizers per sq. m;

From August, feeding is stopped so as not to stimulate growth and continued flowering, but to allow the plant to lay flower buds for the next season.

To prevent the root system located close to the surface of the earth from getting burns from fertilizers, it is recommended to dig special grooves into which to pour the nutrient solution.

During budding, spur leaves are sprayed with a solution boric acid(50 g/l).

Preparing for winter

After flowering is completed and the leaves dry, the stems are cut at a level of 30-35 cm above ground level. The internal cavities of the shoots are covered with garden pitch or clay so that moisture does not get into them, penetrate to the roots and cause rotting.

Frost-resistant delphiniums do not need shelter for the winter; only young plants are covered. If weather forecasters promise frosts and little snow for the winter, it is advisable to cover the bases of delphinium bushes with spruce branches or straw.

Experienced flower growers also dig grooves around each plant before winter to drain rainwater in the fall and melt water in the spring.

Note! “When the stems grow to 60 cm tall, the plant needs to be tied up.

To do this, three pegs are driven into the ground around it and the flower stalks are fixed using a wide braid or tape.”

Reproduction methods

Like all herbaceous plants for open ground, delphinium can be grown from seeds, cuttings and “divisions” of rhizomes.

Reproduction of perennial delphinium by division

Dividing the rhizome of a mature spur is the simplest and therefore popular method. The age of the plant suitable for division is 3-4 years. Older or younger bushes tolerate the procedure less well.

The division is carried out:

• in spring, when fresh leaves begin to sprout;
• in the fall, when the seeds begin to ripen (and new foliage grows again).

The root is carefully removed from the soil, keeping as large an earthen lump as possible. They break it or cut it with a sharp instrument, leaving on each division a bunch of roots, one young shoot and one dormant bud. This is enough to young plant quickly grew green mass and prepared for flowering.

“Delenki” are seated in prepared places. They are carefully looked after until autumn and covered for the winter.

Propagation of perennial delphinium by seeds

A description of the process of growing spurs from seeds is given above. Let's add a few words about collecting and storing seeds.

Delphinium sets seeds easily, but of varying quality.

To minimize the loss of time and effort on germinating unpromising seeds, they resort to the following technique: 10-15 lower flowers are left in each inflorescence candle, the rest are cut off. To prevent ripe seeds (they must ripen while still standing) from scattering, the peduncle is wrapped in a single layer of thin cotton cloth or gauze. Ripe seeds are stored in glass jars or foil bags at low temperatures.

Self-collected seeds do not always inherit varietal qualities parent plants, for those who like experiments and surprises, this serves as an additional incentive.

Propagation of delphinium by cuttings

For reproduction they take apical cuttings. They are prepared in the spring by cutting out young 10-centimeter shoots. Separate from the mother bush at the very root collar with a piece of root tissue.

Larkspur cuttings are rooted in a substrate consisting of peat and sand in a 1:1 ratio. Deepen by 2 cm and cover with a transparent cap. Conditions for successful rooting: shade, temperature 20-25°C, high humidity. The process lasts about 5-6 weeks.

The cuttings are transplanted to a permanent place in the spring.

Note! “When growing delphiniums in groups, the distance between plants is maintained at least 30 cm.”

Diseases and pests

Black spot - black spots appear on the lower leaves, gradually rising up the stem. For treatment, spray with tetracycline solution (1 tablet/1 liter of water). Powdery mildew is a gray-white coating on the leaves that darkens to brown over time. Plants are treated with a solution of Fundazol, Topaz or other fungicides. Ramularia - leaves become covered with small spots, dry out, and fall off. Treated with antifungal agents. Ring spot - appearance yellow spots irregular shape on the leaves. It is a viral disease and there is no reliable means of combating it. Plants are dug up and destroyed.

Phorbia (delphinium fly) lays eggs in unopened buds. A control measure is spraying with insecticides (Prometrin, Iskra) at the budding stage. Spider mite attacks plants when the air is too dry. Prevention and destruction of the pest - green soap, "Fitoverm". Aphids - plants are treated from the first days of spring. In addition to ready-made insecticides, folk remedies are used: infusions of tobacco, garlic, and onion. Slugs are most dangerous for young seedlings. It is optimal to use traps or sprinkle the soil with dry mustard, eggshells, and hot pepper.

Remember! Most often, delphinium diseases are the result of violations of care rules or unfavorable weather conditions, such as: prolonged rains, high humidity, poor air circulation between plants.

Popular types of delphinium

More than 400 species of annual and perennial delphiniums are known. They differ in height, color and structure of the flower, and flowering period. Domestic gardeners love several species.

Delphinium hybrids

A group of tall delphiniums - from 1 to 2 m and above. The rhizome is short, the stem is hollow, erect. Flowers of irregular shape - simple, semi-double and double - form a cluster-shaped inflorescence. The flowers are painted in various tones of blue, blue, lilac, violet, pink and white. Flowering in July southern regions again - in September.

Preference is given to the varieties “blue lace”, “winter’s daughter”, “King Arthur”, “Pushkin”, “pink sunset”, “lilac spiral”.

On a note! The “black knight” variety is very impressive with large double flowers of a thick ink color.

Delphinium Belladonna

Graceful plants with loose panicle inflorescences. They begin to bloom in June, with the second wave occurring in mid-to-late August. The flowers are simple and semi-double, color from white to deep blue with all shades. They are considered ideal for beginners, since caring for this group of varieties is easier.

Prominent representatives of “Berghimmel”, “Casablanca”, “Lamartine”, “Piccolo”.

Delphinium grandiflorum

The standard height of the species is up to 80 cm. The stem is straight, branched. The color of the flowers is rich, blue, pink or white. The flowers are medium in size, the inflorescence is racemose. Blooms from the second half of July.

The favorite varieties of delphinium grandiflora among summer residents are “pink butterfly”, “ blue butterfly", "white butterfly".

Delphinium field

An annual plant up to one and a half meters high. The flowers are simple, double and semi-double, in pink, blue, lilac and white shades. Blooms from June to September.

The following varieties have become widespread: FrostedSky, QisRose, QisDarkBlue.

Delphinium tall (DelphiniumElatum)

A tall (up to 180 cm) line of varieties with dense pyramidal inflorescences, the length of which reaches 40 cm. The flowers are often semi-double, large - about 8 cm. Flowering occurs in the second half of June - early June. Blooms again towards the end of summer.

The best varieties: “agenweid”, “finstearon”, Sungleam.

On a note! In addition to those listed, Pacific and New Zealand hybrids, distinguished by their variety of colors and tall stature, and hybrids of domestic selection - Marfinsky - are also popular.

Delphinium in landscape design

Slender, elegant delphiniums are used in the background of mixborders; next to decorative tall evergreen or early flowering shrubs; for decorating the walls of outbuildings and fences; to accent the center of the flowerbed; when decorating borders and ridges (low-growing species); on alpine slides (miniature varieties); as tapeworms in lawns or among ground covers.

When planted together, the spur plant looks impressive with phlox, roses (including climbing roses), and lilies.

Planting and caring for perennial delphinium requires some effort; it is not for nothing that it is called the “king of flower beds.” The troubles and time spent are completely repaid by the enchanting beauty of the blooming candle inflorescences. Besides, what you put your soul into, willy-nilly, you value more.