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Preparing the soil for Victoria. Planting and caring for Victoria garden

Picking a lot of large berries, peeking through the carpet of lush green foliage and emitting a wonderful aroma, is the dream of any summer resident. Its execution is within the power of every owner personal plot, you just have to take into account the features that Victoria planting has and properly care for the plants. They will certainly reward a caring owner with a generous harvest. Under the proud name “Victoria” lies the familiar strawberry. Initially, only one of its varieties was called this way - the one that sailors brought to Russia from America. Over time, there were more varieties of strawberries, among them there were remontant ones, capable of bearing fruit from 3 to 5 months a year. But in some areas the name has taken root so much that it has become a household name.

Requirements for the site and soil quality

For growing Victoria in the garden you should choose open place, which falls the most sun rays. Strawberries develop well on flat areas or areas inclined at a slight angle to the west. A prerequisite for plant health is reliable protection landing from the wind. In spring and summer, it is not terrible for Victoria, but in winter it can blow snow off strawberries, which protects them from freezing.

You can count on a rich harvest if the crop is grown on light, soft, porous soils with a significant admixture of sand. Victoria is moisture-loving, but it reacts poorly to stagnant water, so it needs well-drained soil. Damp, swampy lowlands are absolutely not suitable for growing strawberries. It is not recommended to plant it in areas prone to flooding and in places where water from melted snow stands for a long time in the spring.

Remontant Victoria is demanding on soil fertility; it must contain a lot of humus. Perfect option for her - black soil or dark gray forest soil. But even in other conditions, strawberries can develop successfully if you properly care for their bushes. Heavy clay soil, which retains moisture, will need to be diluted with manure or humus and sand. The procedure is carried out in the fall. Soil with an acidic reaction must be limed.

You should not plant Victoria in areas where last season there were any plants from the Asteraceae family (sunflower, earthen pear, lettuce, asters, chrysanthemums). It is undesirable, but it is possible to breed it after all nightshades (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants), as well as cucumbers. But the areas freed up after harvesting cereals, legumes (beans, peas), cabbage crops (radish, radish, mustard), garlic and parsley are very good for Victoria. Before planting, they must be dug up, enriching the soil with fertilizers. On 1 m² of surface it will be correct to apply:

  • 2 buckets of humus;
  • 2 liters of wood ash.

Essential organic and minerals will provide strawberry seedlings and a nutritional composition of the following components:

  • ammonium nitrate (20 g);
  • superphosphate (25 g);
  • potassium salt (20 g);
  • humus (6 kg).

Preparing for landing

With regard to planting dates, Victoria provides gardeners with ample opportunities. It is propagated from spring to autumn. Professionals advise planting strawberries at the end of April or in May, when warm weather has already set in. If you provide young bushes with proper care, in the spring they will quickly take root in a new place, will be less sick and will bear the first berries in June.

For planting, the strongest rosettes with a powerful root system are selected.

It will be easier to care for Victoria if the area for it is prepared in advance. In the fall, they dig it up, select weeds, and apply fertilizer. Remontant strawberries can delight you with berries from May to October, but for stable fruiting they will need a lot nutrients. Therefore, in the spring, the soil is re-enriched with rotted manure (10 liters of substance per 1 m²). This is done 17–20 days before planting.

Autumn propagation of Victoria should be carried out from the second half of August to the first ten days of September, when the likelihood of frost is minimal. While it is warm, the plants will have time to take root and withstand the cold. Caring for strawberries at this time will not be burdensome; you just need to plant the rosettes in the soil prepared in advance - from June. If a remontant variety of crop is chosen for breeding, its characteristics must be taken into account. Constant fruiting greatly weakens the plants, so young bushes of such Victoria often die in the first year of life. You will have to take care of them more carefully.

Landing rules

Most often, strawberries are bred with tendrils, which the bushes produce by mid-summer. Young shoots of Victoria emerge from the nodes located on them. Experienced summer residents advise planting rosettes that are closer to the mother bush - the first 2-3. Shoots obtained from 2-year-old plants have the highest survival rate.

When 4-6 leaves appear on the rosettes, they are separated from the tendril, carefully removing the roots along with a lump of earth, and placed in a hole previously spilled with water. The depth of the hole is usually 10-15 cm. It can vary depending on the degree of development of the underground part of the plant. For mature bushes with powerful and long roots, it is better to make deeper holes. To remontant strawberry It takes root more easily in a new place; before placing it in the garden bed, its roots must be dipped in a clay mash. It is prepared by mixing two components with water until creamy:

  • 1 bucket of clay;
  • ½ bucket of mullein.

It will be easier to care for your plantings if you place the strawberry bushes in rows. Many summer residents prefer to fill them with unique ridges up to 10 cm in height. The distance between neighboring plants should be 30-40 cm, and the interval between the rows should be 60-70 cm. Soil is poured into the hole, a Victoria bush is lowered onto it and its roots are carefully straightened in different directions. Then the hole is filled with soil. It is correct that the root collar of the bush rises slightly above the ground or is level with it. The soil is lightly compacted and the hole is watered generously.

When planting, you can add special preparations to the hole to promote rapid rooting.

Garden remontant strawberries respond well to soil mulching. A layer of dry grass, leaves, algae, hay, small straw, and pine needles will help maintain the level of soil moisture required by the crop. After planting, it is recommended that they cover the space under the plants and between the rows. Care carried out in the spring in the form of mulching will have a positive effect on the yield of Victoria: strawberries will bear more berries, and they will ripen faster.

Features of agricultural technology

Growing Victoria will not require any special skills, but you will have to pay attention to planting. Caring for them includes standard procedures:

  • watering;
  • weeding;
  • mulching;
  • feeding;
  • loosening.

Both remontant and ordinary strawberries are sensitive to drying out of the soil, reacting to it with a decrease in yield, so they are moistened often. You can significantly increase the time between waterings if you regularly loosen the soil, mulch the beds, and in early spring carry out snow removal measures. Care in the form of moisturizing Victoria is required from 4 to 10 times per season, depending on weather conditions. The end of summer and the beginning of autumn is an important period in the life of plants: flower buds are formed. If you do not water the plantings at this time, hopes for good harvest It’s better not to lay it down next year.

During the Victoria season, at least three feedings with complex mineral fertilizer are required. Organic formulations are also suitable for her. Experienced gardeners recommend using mullein diluted in a ratio of 1:10. It is better to pour it on moist soil. Two feedings are carried out in the spring: after harvesting withered leaves and when the first flower stalks appear. At this time, plantings require intensive care, the correctness of which determines the quality and quantity of the harvest. To enhance flowering and increase the number of ovaries, strawberries are sprayed with an aqueous solution of boric acid. They do this while there are no buds on the bushes yet. When the flower stalks emerge and the berries begin to set, they are treated with zinc sulfate.

To get more large berries, during the ripening period, Victoria's mustache is torn off.

After the plantings have faded, they do not stop caring for them. The distance between and under the plants is mulched with straw, sawdust or dry moss. This measure will prevent gray rot from damaging the crop. Having collected the last berries from the bushes, they begin the third feeding. After this, the soil is loosened well. If plant roots poke out of the soil, it is necessary to hill up the plantings. On the eve of autumn frosts, another mulching is carried out using peat, humus or grain waste. They are laid in a thick layer, at least 5-8 cm. To protect the strawberries from freezing, dry leaves and straw are thrown onto the beds or covered with spruce branches.

It is impossible to resist the tasty and healthy Victoria berries, which is why its cultivation has become a tradition for most summer residents. They are good not only fresh, recipes for winter preparations from garden strawberries weight. There are compotes, jams, jams, preserves, jellies, and marmalade. Victoria fruits can be dried, frozen, sealed in own juice, make syrups, liqueurs, and wine from them. They are combined with other fruits and berries - red currants, gooseberries, apricots, peaches, raspberries.

Strawberries cannot be called a capricious crop, although you will have to spend time and effort caring for them. But they will definitely pay off. If you follow simple recommendations, you can harvest from the bushes already in the first or second year of their life, depending on the chosen variety.

It is perhaps difficult to find a person today who has no idea what strawberries are. After all, it is not only very tasty, but also very healthy berry. However, not everyone knows that we call strawberry the large variety of garden strawberry Fragaria ananassa and its numerous subspecies, for example, the musky strawberry variety Fragaria moschata. One of the first varieties of garden strawberries (strawberries) to be cultivated in Russia was Victoria. It is also popularly called “Victorka”. Next, we will tell you more about the characteristics of this crop and when to plant Victoria in spring or autumn.

Victoria garden: description and characteristics

Strawberry (Victoria garden strawberry) is a herbaceous perennial, which today is grown almost all over the world. Its fruits are sweet, juicy, red with white flesh. In general, the name of the berry - “strawberry” comes from the phrase “fragaria vesca” Latin origin. It literally translates as “fragrant.” In wild strawberries, which are called sister garden strawberries, almost the same amount of nutrients and vitamins, but its aroma is less restrained.

Victoria garden strawberry belongs to the Rosaceae family. It grows in forest-steppes, meadows, forests, forest edges, clearings and forest clearings. Today, this crop can be found in wild or cultivated form. The first group includes wild strawberry, green strawberries and field group of varieties. Cultivated species include Garden Victoria, musk and muscat strawberries. The plains and hills of the Alps are considered the birthplace of this plant. Today it can be found in Western and Eastern Siberia, in the forest and forest-steppe zones of our country, Ukraine, the Caucasus and Central Asia.

Main characteristics and description of the Victoria variety:

  • Victoria belongs to hybrid varieties, developed by crossing Virginia and Chilean strawberries.
  • The rhizome of the crop is strong with many branches.
  • Victoria makes an excellent dessert, but its use is not limited to just that. After all, it has proven itself to be excellent for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. The berry contains many different vitamins. It is especially rich in vitamin C and B5. In addition, there is iron, potassium, magnesium, calcium, manganese, zinc, silicon, phosphorus, copper and folic acid.
  • Culture of this variety has large green leaves located on small petioles (length 18-25 cm).

  • Victoria has several types of shoots - horns, mustaches and peduncles. The first of them are represented by a short arrow, at the top of which there is a bud. Shoots of the second type spread along the ground. They are used by summer residents as shoots intended for propagation (division) of the crop. The third type of shoots (peduncles) are presented in the form of arrows emerging from generative buds.
  • The inflorescence contains 5 petals. Victoria blooms with white flowers. Then the flower stalks grow, forming fruit ears. Tasty and juicy red berries then grow from them.
  • Victoria can be grown in the same area for no more than 5 years in a row, then the crop should be replanted.
Planting Victoria in autumn

You can plant Victoria in autumn or early spring. In the first case, the culture will take root well and take root within winter period, and at the beginning of summer it will be possible to harvest.

Planting Victoria in the fall is done in the following order:

  • Initially, you should prepare the soil. It is best if the site has slightly acidic light loamy or sandy loam soil. In addition, the soil must be well-drained, since Victoria does not like stagnant moisture. It is not recommended to plant the crop where there are nearby flows. groundwater, which can cause excessive soil moisture.
  • Next, the soil on the site is enriched with mineral and potassium fertilizers.
  • Victoria is planted in several rows. There should be a distance of at least 25 cm between the seedlings. The row spacing is usually 75-85 cm. The seedling is deepened into the ground by 20 cm. Then it is sprinkled with earth.
  • After the seedling is planted, the soil on the site should be compacted and, on the contrary, loosened between the rows. Then the seedlings are watered.
  • For the winter, seedlings should be insulated. For this purpose, manure or straw is used.
  • If landing is carried out in spring period, then the site should be prepared in advance in October. To do this, dig up the soil, removing rhizomes from it. weeds. Next, the process is the same as planting Victoria in the fall.

    Useful properties of Victoria garden

    Victoria has many beneficial properties:

    • Has a positive effect on digestion. It improves appetite and also has a diuretic and diaphoretic effect. Due to the fact that the berries contain a considerable amount of minerals, the body is cleansed of toxins and “heavy” elements.
    • Victoria is rich in antioxidants, which slows down the aging process. It is also actively used in alternative medicine, for example, in the treatment of anemia, atherosclerosis, and hypertension. The benefit of Victoria in the treatment of hypertension is that the berry contains a lot of potassium. Magnesium, which is contained in Victoria, is an excellent remedy for reducing blood pressure, which is often caused by excess salt.
    • Victoria will be useful for vitamin deficiencies. Thanks to the properties of the berry, by eating it, you can cope with the influenza virus and pneumococcus. It has a positive effect on the metabolic processes of such an important substance for the body as iodine.
    • The fruits are often used as part of the diet menu for those overweight.

    • It is also worth noting that the fruits contain useful acids, which help neutralize the negative effects that occur in the body when smoking tobacco. Therefore, the berry is especially useful for people who smoke.
    • Victoria contains beneficial flavonoids - folates, anthocyanins, vitamin C, quercetin and kaempferol. These substances together are very effective in fighting tumors. If you eat this berry every day, it will be an excellent prevention of cancer and will also help reduce the growth of cancer cells.
    • The leaves and berries of this crop are used to prepare infusions for the treatment of certain diseases, for example, eye pathologies. This is achieved due to the fact that Victoria contains antioxidants that help fight free radicals, which are one of the main causes of most ENT diseases.
    • Culture is good for brain function. This is facilitated by the same ability of Victoria to resist free radicals. After all, it is when they are activated that the brain begins to gradually degenerate, which will entail a weakening of the nerve endings.
    • The berries contain iodine, which allows the nervous system and brain to function properly. The iodine content makes it possible to compensate for the deficiency of this microelement in everyday food. In addition, the fruits contain salicylic acid, which is useful for various joint diseases.

    Reproduction of garden Victoria in autumn

    Reproduction of Victoria depends on its variety. Basically, most species, after the end of fruiting, throw out their whiskers, which are used for their reproduction. Beardless strawberry varieties are propagated by dividing the bush or sowing seed material.

    Propagation by mustache is the most commonly used when growing crops and gives quite good results. The breeding order is as follows:

  • After the bush finishes bearing fruit, it produces tendrils, at the end of which rosettes with leaves are formed. They are leaned against the ground and sprinkled with loose soil so that it does not fall into the core of the rosette.
  • After this, it is watered and left for a while until it takes root. When the rosette takes root, it is cut off from the bush, carefully dug up and transplanted to a new place. In some cases, they are transplanted not into an open place, but into a so-called growing bed.
  • It must be covered with agrofibre or lutrasil to protect fragile seedlings from direct sunlight. When transplanting, no more than 3-4 sheets are left on the rosettes, all the rest are simply cut off. The seedlings are transplanted to the “working” bed only at the end of September, but the sun canopy can be removed after 2-3 weeks.
  • Quite often, novice gardeners prefer to buy ready-made seedlings. It is better to do this from trusted breeders, otherwise such a step is comparable to buying a “pig in a poke.” If the decision to purchase seedlings has been made, you need to pay attention to its quality. A normal seedling should be well developed, have at least 4 leaves and long roots (at least 4 cm). The horn of a good bush should be powerful.

    Growing Victoria from seeds is rarely used by gardeners. This breeding method is mainly used by green farms and agricultural firms. Seeds are propagated by those varieties that do not grow whiskers.

    Reproduction order using this method:

  • Planting is done at home in a container with compost. Plant seeds are lightly pressed into damp compost and then covered with glass.
  • For 3 days after sowing, the container should be placed in the refrigerator in the lower compartment, and then removed and moved to a warm place with a temperature of approximately +20°C.
  • The first strawberry shoots should appear in about a month. As soon as this happens, you can remove the glass and move the container with seedlings to a more illuminated place.
  • Seedlings are picked when 3-4 leaves appear on them. After this they are moved to peat pots and left to grow until they can be planted in open ground. To do this, it must be sufficiently warmed up. It is worth transplanting seedlings into the garden bed only when the probability of frost is too low.
  • Also, beardless varieties of Victoria are propagated by dividing the bush. To do this, after the fruiting period, you need to select the most powerful bush, carefully dig it out without damaging it. root system, and shake off the soil. After this, the bush is divided in such a way that a horn, long and developed roots remain on each part white, as well as 3-4 sheets. Then the old roots are cut off from both parts and they can be planted in open ground. Thus, from one Victoria bush you get 2 or even 3 full-fledged plants.

    Pruning garden Victoria in autumn

    Although many believe that Victoria should not be pruned, citing the fact that the leaves give additional energy to the bush. However, this is not the case. A large number of leaves and tendrils with rosettes, on the contrary, will take a lot of juice from the plant, so there is no need to start the bushes. It is also impossible to leave a bush without leaves for the winter. That is why Victoria needs to be pruned in time so that the bushes have time to grow new foliage by the first frost. This will take the plant up to two months, so it is better to start pruning in mid-August.

    Young growth does not need to be pruned. For bushes 1-2 years old, this procedure will cause more trouble than benefit.

    After the pruning procedure is completed, Victoria bushes are treated with insecticides and fungicides. They also carry out several heavy waterings, weeding the beds and removing weeds.

    Diseases and pests of Victoria garden

    Like most fruit plants, Victoria strawberries are susceptible to various diseases and pests. Among the first, the most common are:

    • Late blight. A Victoria bush affected by late blight can be recognized by the wilting of the leaves. The disease itself affects the root system of the plant. To prevent the disease, it is necessary to observe crop rotation and check seedlings before planting. If signs of the disease are detected, it is necessary to treat the plants with Trichoderma using the system drip irrigation, and treat the soil with Quadris or Radomil.
    • Gray rot. This disease is widespread almost everywhere. First of all, the fungus, which is its root cause, affects berries and flowers. The cause of the disease is high humidity on the site and its poor ventilation. Prevention of the disease consists of normalizing the watering regime and treating the area with the following drugs: Derozal, Euparen, Topsin M. Diseased plants must be removed from the area and burned.
    • Powdery mildew. This disease develops on the lower plastic of the leaf and affects the flowers, leaves, tendrils and berries of the plant. It is determined by the presence of loose plaque on the infected areas of the plant. Then the spots develop into necrosis, and the plant gradually dies. If there are signs of disease, it is necessary to treat the bed with Fundazol or Bayleton.

    Victoria also has a lot of pests:

    • Weevil (strawberry-raspberry and nettle-leaf). These bugs are a real scourge for Victoria's beds. Actively reproducing, after wintering they begin to eat the leaves and flowers of the plant. So in advanced cases, you can be left without a harvest at all. Disease prevention is carried out by treating the beds with Karbofos, Confidor or Decis. They do this twice: before flowering and after picking the berries.
    • Strawberry mite. The pest damages the leaves of the plant. Its actions lead to the degradation of the berries and the death of the entire bush. Ticks are especially active at the end of summer. Diseased plants are sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur in early spring, and a week before flowering with Nero.
    How to plant Victoria: video

    Correct caring for victoria will allow you to get a rich harvest, from planting and watering to harvesting. It's no secret that Victoria has many beneficial properties, not to mention its excellent taste qualities. A rich harvest is the result of proper care for Victoria.

    I invite you to the group on Subscribe.ru for summer residents and gardeners: "Country Hobbies"
    growing victoria

    Garden strawberries, which are usually called “Victoria”, are a very tasty and aromatic berry. In fact, Victoria is just a variety of strawberry. and Victoria have some features and differences.

    Victoria landing

    Victoria needs to be planted on a flat area with a slight slope to the west.

    It is necessary that the planting area be well protected from the wind, which in winter, blowing snow off the plants, can cause their death from frost.

    Victoria grows best on sandy loam soils containing a large number of humus.

    Victoria reproduces by mustaches that grow by mid-summer. From the nodes located on the tendrils, new shoots grow - rosettes of leaves and roots. The first 2 - 3 rosettes from the main plant are considered the most suitable for propagation.

    Victoria's landing

    The most suitable are mustaches from two-year-old bushes. When a rosette has 4-6 leaves, it should be cut off from the tendril and, together with a lump of earth, planted in a prepared hole on permanent place.

    Victoria is usually planted in spring or autumn, with preliminary soil preparation. If spring planting is planned, then the soil should be prepared in the fall; if it is autumn planting, then the site is prepared in June.

    6 kg of humus is added to the dug soil per square meter and mineral fertilizers: and ammonium nitrate 20 grams each, plus 25 grams of superphosphate. In order to make it convenient to care for the plants, they are planted in rows like ridges, up to 10 cm high. Between the bushes you should leave 20 - 30 cm, with a row spacing of 60 - 70 cm.

    Victoria care and watering

    caring for victoria

    Victoria is very picky about care and watering. If you regularly carry out work to conserve moisture by loosening the soil, mulching, snow retention, and removing weeds, you can do without watering. But when watering it up to 10 times per season, it is possible to obtain a more generous harvest.

    After flowering has finished, the soil in the garden bed is mulched with wood shavings, straw or dry moss. This protects the berries from damp rot.

    In mid-autumn, you need to do a second mulching with peat or grain waste. The mulch thickness should be 5 - 8 cm.

    After harvesting, you should loosen the ground around the bushes. When the roots are exposed, the plant must be earthed up. Important role To get a good harvest of strawberries, weeding is also important.

    Nice and timely caring for victoria will delight you with the resulting harvest of berries, which are indispensable in the treatment of kidney and liver diseases, and diabetes. Victoria berries promote blood formation, increase productivity, and strengthen the immune system.

    Like any other crop, it is preferable to plant strawberries on a cloudy day or in the evening.

    An hour before planting, the seedlings need to be watered; it would be even better to soak the seedlings in water or a biogrowth stimulator for a couple of hours. Some gardeners keep the bushes in garlic infusion (150 ml of garlic infusion per 10 liters of water) before planting to prevent “attacks” from pests.

    A good strawberry seedling should have 3-4 healthy leaves (it is advisable to remove the rest) and well-extended roots 10 centimeters in length (extra centimeters need to be cut off).

    So, we have prepared young bushes, holes with “mounds” and remains soil mixture. All that remains is to install each bush on the mound so that the growth point (the so-called “heart”) is flush with the surface of the bed, and the roots are spread along the slopes of the mound.


    Then, holding the bush, you need to fill it with soil prepared in advance and at the same time spill it with water. This is done to ensure that the contact between the roots and the ground is closer.


    It is imperative to ensure that the growing point is not too deep or too raised above the soil.

    Caring for a young bed of strawberries (strawberries)

    If you planted strawberries in the spring, flower stalks and tendrils may appear on the young bed. Cut them off without mercy! Now the main task of seedlings is to take root in a new place, and fruiting and reproduction can and should be postponed until the next season.


    Be sure to mulch freshly planted strawberries. The best mulching material for this berry is pine needles - it prevents diseases from developing and repels pests. But straw, dried grass, leaves, rotted sawdust, etc. are also suitable.

    Two weeks after planting, the young berries are fed. As a top dressing, you can use an infusion of vermicompost (sold in stores), an infusion bird droppings or herbal infusion. All these fertilizers are organic and contain a large amount of easily digestible nitrogen, which contributes to rapid growth young strawberries.

    We wish you success and great harvests!

    Planting strawberries in the fall is the basis for the future harvest.

    Good afternoon, dear readers!

    Today we’ll talk about planting strawberries in the fall. Strawberry is the real queen of berries. Every gardener is waiting for her appearance. The tasty and bright berry has many advantages. She ripens first.

    It contains a large amount of vitamins, so it will be very useful for a weakened body. Due to its favorable content of antioxidants and microelements, it can be used as a medicine. It will help with diabetes, anemia, high blood pressure, atherosclerosis.

  • Strawberry planting dates in autumn
  • Strawberry propagation by mustache
  • Growing under agrofibre
  • But strawberries are pretty capricious plant. Beginners face many difficulties. The berry bush may dry out and bear little fruit. He is often attacked by slugs. To have fewer problems with the plant, it is better to plant this crop in the fall.

    Proper planting of strawberries in autumn

    By planting strawberries in the fall, you can harvest the first harvest in the summer. When planting in spring, as a rule, there are no berries in summer. In addition, gardeners have more time in the fall. The weather is good outside and there is always a lot of planting material.

    Thanks to the warm weather, the young bushes will take root well, take root in a new place and overwinter well.

    Thanks to autumn planting, gardeners will have to put less effort into caring for the plant. They will have the opportunity to restore neglected plantations.

    Strawberries need to be planted not only on time, but also correctly.

    Strawberry planting dates in autumn

    There are three deadlines autumn planting strawberry bushes.

    The period for early autumn planting is from mid-August to mid-September.

    In late autumn, the plant can be planted a month before frost.

    Each gardener can determine the planting date independently, taking into account the development cycle of strawberries and the weather conditions of their area. As a rule, most varieties of berries throw out their runners in June-July. They take root in July-August, and fruit buds form in September-October.

    Most high yields can be obtained with early autumn and mid-autumn planting. I prefer to plant mustaches at the end of August, so one of these days I’ll do just that.

    It is best to plant strawberries with mustaches in the fall. The optimal period is from August 20 to September 15. It is not recommended to do this later, since the berry bushes will not grow stronger and will suffer from frost. It won't even help protective film. After this, the plant will be difficult to grow.

    A favorable day for planting strawberries can be found by lunar calendar gardener You should know that strawberry beds are renewed every 3-4 years. In order for strawberry bushes to give birth well, they must be replanted gradually.

    If you replant one bed every year, you will always have a good harvest. It is best to have three strawberry beds on your property; you will replant them every three years. The locations for the beds are changed periodically.

    The best predecessors for strawberries are root vegetables - beets, carrots, radishes. It will grow well after dill, celery, lettuce, and garlic.

    It is not recommended to plant strawberries after potatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, peppers, and cabbage. If the plants have been infected with viral diseases, they will spread to the strawberry bushes.

    Preparing beds for planting strawberries

    Strawberries have no special soil requirements. It is suitable for all types of soil. The best harvest of berries can be harvested if strawberries are grown in sandy loam, loamy soil, or black soil.

    Productivity will decrease if strawberry bushes are planted in peat, sandy, clayey, soddy-podzolic soil. The berry bush will not grow on swampy soil.

    Before planting, plants must be preparatory work, improving the composition of the soil. It is best to add a little peat, manure and humus to heavy clay soil. This will improve aeration.

    You can also sow green manure. Mustard and lupine are planted in the beds where they plan to grow strawberries. In the spring they are mowed and dug in, mixed with the top layer of soil. This procedure improves the soil structure and enriches the soil with nitrogen.

    Thanks to it, less fertilizer will be required. Weeds will be easier to control. In addition, pests are afraid of these plants. Growing green manure will help gardeners save money.

    If there is no time to grow green manure, 100 grams of superphosphate, 60 grams of potassium salt, 10 kilograms of humus (per square kilometer of land) should be added to the soil before planting strawberries.

    Pests love to eat strawberries. The greatest danger to her is represented by wireworms, Colorado potato beetles and strawberry nematodes. It is very important to check the future bed to ensure that there are no pest larvae there. If you find them, you need to treat the soil with water with the addition of ammonia. It is equally important to clear the area of ​​weeds.

    Strawberries prefer well-lit areas. It is a “voracious” berry. For normal height and development, it needs not only good soil, but also compost. Vermicompost or manure and ash should be added to the soil.

    Strawberry seedlings need deep and wide holes. There should be a distance of at least 30-50 cm between them. An interval of 40 cm is maintained between the rows. After removing the soil from the holes, it must be mixed with a bucket of compost and two glasses of rotted manure. The prepared soil is poured back into the holes, making small mounds in the center of the grooves.

    Selection of planting material, preparation of seedlings

    To get a good strawberry harvest, you need to choose the right seedlings.

    Preference should be given to bushes with a root collar with a diameter of more than 6 mm. Seedlings should have a fibrous root system with root shoots more than 7 cm. Good seedlings have 3-5 formed leaves and white succulent roots.

    If you buy seedlings at the market or take them from neighbors, they should be planted quickly. If it is not possible to plant it right away, it can be dug into damp, loose soil in a shaded area or placed in a cool room, having first wrapped the roots in slightly wetted moss.

    If you are planting young bushes grown from seeds, then a few days before planting the strawberries, the seedlings should be placed in a cool place. Before planting, the roots should be dipped in a clay mash. This will prevent them from drying out and improve their survival rate in a new place.

    Rules for planting strawberry seedlings
    • Strawberry bush seedlings must be planted in moist soil. It is best to do this in cloudy weather in the evening.
    • During planting, seedlings should be in the shade.
    • A root system that is too long is shortened to 7-10 cm.
    • An hour before planting strawberry seedlings, the seedlings are well watered or soaked in a biogrowth stimulator.
    • Many experienced gardeners Before planting, strawberry bushes are kept in garlic infusion. This procedure repels pests.
    • Excess leaves on seedlings are removed.

    When planting, each strawberry bush is placed on an earthen mound so that the growing point comes into contact with the surface of the bed. The roots of the plant must be spread along the slopes of the mound. Holding the berry bush, it is covered with earth and spilled with water. To prevent the soil from drying out, the holes of plants that have been watered are sprinkled with earth or humus. Immediately after planting, the soil must be loosened so that water flows freely to the strawberry roots.

    Strawberry propagation by mustache

    You can propagate strawberries with a mustache. When fruits appear on the bush, to obtain new offspring, you should choose the most promising bushes with large and healthy berries. They must be annual or biennial.

    For propagation, fairly large rosettes are chosen that extend from the bushes. They are planted in a seedling pot and pinned. Only the largest sockets should be left.

    Creeping shoots that connect the rosette to the strawberry bush are removed. You also need to get rid of second- and third-order mustaches.

    When 4-6 leaves appear in July, cut off the remaining tendrils and transplant the bush to a permanent place. In this case, there is no need to remove soil residues from the roots. After transplanting, the strawberry bush must be watered.

    Strawberry mustache

    Growing under agrofibre

    By growing bushes under agrofibre, the strawberry harvest can be harvested one week earlier. After the snow melts, the berry bushes are covered with agrofibre, which will protect them from severe frosts and drafts. Thanks to him, inside the bushes there will be optimal temperature, which is necessary for optimal growth and plant development. In stable weather, when the planting material is not in danger, you can remove it.

    Thanks to agrofibre and tunnel delicious berry ripens two weeks earlier. To do this, long wire frames are installed along the strawberry rows at a distance of one meter. For this purpose, thick wire (4-6 mm) is used. The frames are deepened 25-30 cm in depth. They must be fastened on top and covered with agrofibre, burying the ends in the ground. During warm weather The ends of the agrofibre are opened slightly for ventilation. When the weather is stable, the material is opened completely. Cover the strawberry beds with agrofibre after the plant has flowered.

    You can not only cover strawberries with non-woven material, but also plant strawberry seedlings on covering material. I often use black covering material.

    To do this, the prepared beds are covered with agrofibre and cross-shaped slots are made in it for planting and bushes at a distance of 40 by 40 cm.

    Strawberry tendrils or seedlings are planted in these holes and watered well.

    Maintenance is kept to a minimum - you need to monitor watering.

  • Weeds do not germinate under dense fabric.
  • Agrofibre allows air and water to pass through
  • The temperature of the earth is several degrees higher
  • The berries do not come into contact with the ground - they do not rot and are always clean
  • Rules for caring for strawberry seedlings

    After planting, strawberries are quite difficult to care for. Planted strawberries must have a healthy and strong root system. If peduncles and tendrils appear on the strawberry bushes, they must be removed.

    The first days after planting, the berry bush needs moderate watering. The plant is watered from a watering can with small portions of water. The top layer of soil should always be moist. Moisture helps new roots grow. Old roots help support the bush. After ten days of watering, increase the amount of water, but water the plant less frequently so that its roots absorb moisture well.

    20 days after planting, the bushes will be ready for wintering. If not favorable conditions– in 50 days.

    Strawberries are not afraid of rain and frost. The greatest danger for it is dry weather. Before severe frosts, the bushes should be well watered.

    In winter, snow cover will protect the plant from severe frosts. If you live in a region with little snow in winter, you need to take care of the plant in advance. After planting, the area with planted strawberries must be mulched. It is best to use pine needles as a material for mulch. It not only repels pests, but also protects the plant from diseases. If there are no pine needles, straw, dry leaves, hay, sawdust will do. Without shelter, the plant will die.

    In early spring, the old mulch under which it spent the winter is removed from the site. Thawed strawberry bushes are cleaned and old and deformed leaves are removed.

    To remove all kinds of pests and warm the soil, remove 3 cm of the top layer of soil. The soil is thoroughly loosened.

    Look

    Video about planting strawberries with a mustache

    Planting strawberries in the fall is the key to a new harvest for several years.

    Sincerely, Sofya Guseva.

    Other useful articles:

    • Planting strawberries in spring
    • The best varieties of strawberries
    • Vertical beds for growing strawberries
    • Caring for strawberries in spring

    Proper planting of Victoria in the fall, taking care of an early harvest

    • How and when is Victoria transplanted? Kseniya
    • Caring for Victoria in the fall: tips for gardeners Natalya Karpova
    • Victoria-berry. How to get a good harvest Pavel Bogachenkov
    • How to care for Victoria so that you can collect it not in cups, but in buckets? Sharing the secrets of Daria Zvereva
    • Do you know how to process Victoria in the fall? Natalya Salaeva
    • How to treat Victoria in the fall: tips and tricks Kseniya
    • How to provide proper care for Victoria Elena Markova
    • Do you know when to replant strawberries in the fall? Natalya Salaeva
    • Is it possible to replant strawberries in October and what care does it need? Oksana Kolchina
    • Planting strawberries under black covering material: technology, photos, reviews Elena Litvinenko
    • Victoria (strawberry) as a common noun for garden berries Annam
    • Strawberry First-grader: variety description, planting and care Victoria Litvinova
    • What green manures for strawberries will provide the best harvest? Elena Markova
    • Strawberries: planting and care in open ground and in a greenhouse Lazko Natalya
    • Zemklunika: varieties, features of planting and care Marina Adulyan

    How to care for Victoria planting, watering and fertilizing

    Any gardener will sooner or later want to plant strawberries on his plot. But how to care for Victoria to get a good harvest?

    This question worries many gardeners who planted this berry crop on their plot for the first time. Is this plant difficult to care for? At first glance it may seem so. However, if you consider some basic recommendations for caring for Victoria, it turns out that this task is not so difficult. Of course, it may be difficult at first, but with a little practice, you will become a guru in growing strawberries. And in this article you will receive comprehensive answers to important questions about the agricultural technology of this berry crop.

    How to plant Victoria

    So, let's consider the first question - how to plant Victoria? The answer to this is important, since it is the planting of strawberries that affects the quality of the future harvest.

    To understand how to plant strawberries, you must first briefly consider the structure of its bushes. Take a look at the photo attached just below. As you can see, there is a main, uterine bush. Thanks to him, the propagation of berry crops is possible. Whiskers extend from the main strawberry bush. Rosettes appear on these shoots - future fruit-bearing bushes. Over time, this rosette will also turn into a mother bush.

    Important! For propagation, choose those shoots that have no more than three rosettes. This will ensure stable growth of each bush, which will also affect the quality of the fruit.

    As soon as the rosette begins to form, immediately carefully stick its roots into the soil. This way you will provide the plant with constant nutrition of important vital elements. After some time, when the bushes have formed, they can be planted. It is worth noting that each mother bush can produce up to 15 good sockets. This means that you don’t have to constantly buy seedlings, and you will always have your own.

    Memo. Victoria should be planted in mid-summer (July). Many gardeners advise choosing the evening time of day for this: in this case, the plant will undergo night acclimatization.

    What bushes can be planted in the ground? Will all sockets fit? No, you only need to plant those seedlings that have formed a root system, have several leaves and a developed heart. Therefore, if you are buying sockets, then pay attention to all these factors, so as not to be upset later because your plant is not accepted. In the same case, when you have your own uterine bush, then before you carefully tear off the rosette from the mustache, make sure that it matches this description. Before planting the plant, carefully straighten its roots.

    Of no small importance is the location chosen for planting Victoria. The berry crop develops well on sandy, slightly acidic and loamy soil. Do not forget to saturate the soil with humus and important nutrients. The plant cannot be planted in clay soil (it will die) and sandy soil is not recommended (the harvest will be small).

    Reminder! Do not plant strawberries in beds adjacent to peppers, tomatoes and potatoes. Also, you should not plant seedlings near trees: their root system will interfere with the development of Victoria. But the proximity to corn and sunflowers will be very useful - they will protect the berry crop from the winds.

    The plant does not like high humidity, low temperatures and cold winds. Such weather conditions adversely affect the productivity of the variety: the harvest will be small, and the fruits themselves will become small and diseased. But warm and sunny places will contribute to the fact that Victoria will bear fruit abundantly with large and beautiful berries.

    How to water Victoria

    Strawberries are considered a moisture-loving plant. Therefore, are there any special recommendations on how to water Victoria? It turned out that yes.

    In the first month after planting, the plant needs to be watered in the holes. After 30 days, the bushes are irrigated by filling the beds with water. It turns out that it is from this period that Victoria begins to receive moisture abundantly. In this case, many gardeners do not reinvent the wheel, but simply bring the end of the hose to the garden bed and fill it to the top. Yes, you shouldn't be greedy with water. For such generosity, Victoria will give you her large, pleasant-tasting fruits. But you can find out what to do with this bountiful harvest here.

    How often to water Victoria

    It is clear that strawberries need plenty of watering. But still, how often to water Victoria so as not to harm the plant?

    In spring, strawberries begin to grow rapidly. If you do not give it the necessary moisture during this period, then you should not be surprised that the berries are small and dry when ripe. Watering continues almost until mid-autumn. In the spring and autumn seasons, strawberry bushes should be irrigated once a week. This should be done in the morning and preferably warm water. In the summer season, Victoria needs to be watered at least twice a week, and if the days are hot, then it can be done every other day. At the same time, we must not forget to fertilize the plants with liquid subcortex.

    How to care for Victoria in spring

    The spring season is the most labor-intensive. It is at this time that strawberries need special care. Therefore, how to care for Victoria in the spring?

    You have just finished eating frozen strawberries when spring comes to your yard, and with it it’s time for you to go out to your garden. Where to begin? First, carefully inspect your beds. Remove all frozen plants without regret: there is no place for them to take up space in the beds. Dead leaves must be removed from living bushes.

    After carefully examining the bushes and removing the dead ones, proceed to the next step: remove the top layer of soil that you used to mulch the Victoria last fall. Why is this being done? Firstly, various pests live in this layer and have taken refuge here from the cold, and secondly, the root system will begin to receive additional heat from the rays of the sun.

    When you have completed all these procedures, it is advisable to feed the strawberries with nitrogen fertilizer. As soon as your bushes are pleased with new leaves, then immediately “feed” your plants with a solution of mullein with the addition of ammonium sulfate. And when May comes, Victoria should receive a portion of complex mineral fertilizer.

    How to grow a large Victoria

    So, all the main work has been completed. The gardener is waiting for his fruits. But how to grow big Victoria, because every gardener wants to get a special trophy?

    In fact, a lot depends on the gardener himself, or rather on whether he will help Victoria in its fruiting. About what we're talking about? Again about fertilizer. And no matter what you are doing - trying to grow cherries from seeds or wanting to get a large Victoria fruit - correct and timely fertilizer will play a key role in these matters.

    Make it a rule to fertilize your plants not only in the spring (as discussed above), but also before flowering and ripening. In the first case, it is advisable to feed the strawberries bird droppings. The solution is prepared as follows: one bucket of litter is filled with three buckets of water. The liquid should stand for three to five days. The resulting solution is diluted 1 to 20 and the grooves between the beds are watered with it. And before ripening, Victoria should be fertilized twice: with boric acid and zinc sulfate. Thanks to all these actions, you can expect a bountiful and large-fruited harvest.

    In addition to the information in the article, you can listen to the advice of one of the gardeners on how best to care for strawberries:

    We grow three kilograms of Victoria per bush


    Irina Lebedeva, an accountant by profession and a gardener by vocation, has been growing Victoria for 40 years. But even with such experience, it is recognized that the results are different and depend on weather conditions, seedlings or seeds. That is why he does not like to experiment and plants exclusively early varieties. She inherited a plot of 12 acres in the village of Krasnoye from her parents. There she and her husband Sergei Vladimirovich spend every summer. During this time, up to 3 kg of berries are collected from one bush. At the same time, the berries are large in size - about the size of a child’s fist.

    “Victoria, or, scientifically speaking, large-fruited garden strawberries, is one of my favorite berries,” says Irina Alexandrovna. — Despite the fact that there is not so much space on the site, I allocated 3 beds for her, so that there would be enough not only to eat freshly, but also to make preparations for the winter.

    When and where to plant

    Irina Lebedeva:

    — I usually plant in early May. I believe that the earlier it is planted, the better it develops. I plant it in the evening so that the strawberries can acclimatize overnight.

    Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

    — It’s better to prepare the beds in the fall, and immediately begin planting in the spring. Strawberries love a sunny, open place. It is advisable to direct the garden bed from south to north. It is in this arrangement that she makes the most of solar energy. Try not to plant it under an apple or cherry tree. Soil moisture is another important factor. If groundwater is close, then the bed needs to be raised to 30-35 cm to prevent root rotting. In dry places, the beds are low - 8-10 cm.

    It is better to plant seedlings grown using the Frigo technology in the spring (read more about it on our website). Grown by tendrils or seeds, if the plant's roots are strong, it can be planted now so that the plant is ready for the drop in temperature in September.

    Now planted plants need to be fed with microelements to berry crops, for example "Gumi-omi". You can treat the beds with special chemicals to prevent diseases and pests, for example “Fufanon”, “Ordan”, “Abiga-Pik”.

    How to plant

    Irina Lebedeva:

    — I make the distance between the rows 60 cm, and between the plants in the row — 20 cm. I make the depth of the hole along the entire length of the root. I dip the root of the plant in a solution of mullein or humus with soil. I add 1 tbsp to the hole. l. "Agrovit-Kora" or a pinch of "Kemira-Universal". I plant it so that the growing point is at soil level. Shallow or, conversely, deep planting leads to the death of plants or to their poor development. After planting, I water it with water - 250 ml per plant as the soil dries.

    Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

    — First of all, we note that the deposit big harvest- high-quality, healthy planting material. In our case, this means a developed root system of at least 15 cm and a small rosette of leaves. The distance between plants should be a little larger than Irina does: between rows - 70 cm, and between plants in a row - 30 cm. When it is planted less often, it gets sick less often, produces more crops, and the distance promotes ventilation and good lighting.

    In the garden bed, they first get rid of the weeds, then level them and make holes depending on the size of the root, that is, along its entire length. Then compost (a couple of scoops), ash (half a matchbox for one hole) and a little earth are placed in this hole. This whole mass is mixed, watered and only then the strawberries are planted. Then they are covered with soil and watered again.

    Before landing on summer cottage, it is necessary to draw up a plan and observe crop rotation. That is, alternate certain crops in the beds. Strawberries can be planted after any predecessors, except nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, petunia, tobacco). But you can’t plant it next to raspberries, because they have the same pests. Before the formation of flower stalks, you need to water with a watering can, and after they appear, with a ladle under the root.

    The maximum yield of strawberries is the first two years, and then the yield declines, and the risk of pests increases. You can plant strawberries in the same bed where they grew after 2 seasons. Before that, you can plant garlic or mustard, which will improve the health of the soil. You can also grow strawberries where legumes were planted the previous season.

    How to prepare for winter?

    Irina Lebedeva:

    — In the fall, when the temperature reaches 2-5 C, I cover the bed with “Agrotex” (covering material). And in the spring, when the snow melts, I take it off.

    Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

    — Each summer resident has his own way of mulching (coating the soil with a protective layer) of strawberries - mowed lawn grass, sawdust from deciduous trees, hay. But one of the remedies that will save the gardener from unnecessary hassle— mulch “Kostravit-M1”. It protects the soil from overheating, retains moisture longer, protects from pests and suppresses the growth of weeds. Mulch will also save strawberries from freezing in winter. The recommended thickness of the mulch layer is 1.5-2 cm in spring, and 3 cm before winter.

    Which varieties to choose?

    This year Irina Alexandrovna did not have many berries, but they were all very large, about 8 cm in length. The owner believes that this is the merit of the variety, which has not let her down for the 2nd season. Despite the dimensions, the taste does not become worse. The main varieties that Irina Alexandrovna uses are “Gigantella” and “Festivalnaya”.

    Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

    All varieties are divided into 4 groups: early, medium, late ripening and remontant. It all depends on the preference of the summer resident, what kind of strawberries he wants to see on his plot.

    Early varieties ripen at the end of June - these are “Kimberly”, “Corona”, “Olvia”. The berries are sweet, large, bright red, winter-hardy.

    The middle ones ripen in early July - “Rusich”, “Black Swong”, “Vima-Zanta”, “Zenga-Zengana”. Berries from 20 g, sweet and sour taste, average winter hardiness.

    Late - in mid-July - “Vima Tarda”, “Vikoda”, “Charlotte”. The berries are medium size, sweet and sour taste, good winter hardiness.

    Remontant garden strawberry. She gives berries a little at a time, but all summer long. Also, their peculiarity is that the berries are larger and sweeter than those of ordinary varieties. Blooms from May to October: “Vima-Rina”, “Geneva”, “Moscow delicacy”, “Brighton”, “Queen Elizabeth II”.

    How to reproduce?

    Irina Aleksandrovna propagates strawberries with mustaches. Just now I transplanted it to the bed where the onions grew.

    Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

    — This method has many disadvantages, although it is easy to use. After 3 generations, the berry begins to lose its properties. They become smaller, the taste deteriorates, productivity declines, and susceptibility to disease increases. The next disadvantage is the transfer of diseases from bed to bed. The strawberries on which gardeners leave mustaches do not spend their energy on setting fruit buds, but to feed their young shoots.

    To avoid these problems, it is necessary to update the planting material, that is, take seedlings of the first reproduction. They give maximum yield. Seedlings of this class can be found today. Sellers must have varietal certificates confirming this.

    There is one more modern waynew technology frigo (translated as “cold”). Throughout the summer, farmers grow strawberries in open ground in their nurseries. During this time, she is not allowed to give away the harvest, and her mustache is removed. Then the strawberries are dug up, the leaves are cut off, and the seedlings are stored in the refrigerator. And in this state it is stored until the moment when it needs to be planted. To us, in Udmurtia, frozen roots are brought from a Dutch nursery in the spring. After planting it, within two months, gardeners receive guaranteed harvest. You can apply for the purchase of seedlings of 1 reproduction using Frigo technology by calling the Agricultural Academy 55-02-07, ( average price- 25-35 rubles per seedling).

    How to care?

    Twice a season, Irina Aleksandrovna makes liquid fertilizer for strawberries. The first time is in May, before flowering, and the second time is in early July, after harvesting.

    Irina Lebedeva:

    — For liquid feeding of strawberries, I use fresh chicken manure. I water the beds well a few hours before fertilizing. Then, in 10 liters of water, I carefully stir a portion of fresh chicken manure at a rate of 1:10 and water it evenly from a watering can. After harvesting, I remove all weeds, loosen the soil around all the bushes and cover them with a small layer cow dung to fertilize the soil. I don't use any chemicals.

    Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

    — Experts advise feeding strawberries in the spring with nitrogen fertilizers in accordance with the instructions on the package (for example, AFK 16-16-16, 10 grams per square meter). But don't overdo it. They also recommend regularly adding a complex of microelements for berry crops, for example “Gumi-omi”. After harvesting, the harvest can be treated with special chemicals to prevent diseases and pests, for example “Fufanon”, “Ordan”, “Abiga Peak”.

    How to get rid of pests

    Irina Aleksandrovna is sure that pests do not touch Victoria, because every three years she transplants it to a new place.

    Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

    The main pests of strawberries are larvae chafer(Khrushchi). When digging the beds, you need to remove the larvae manually. Another method of control is to cover the beds during the flight of beetles in May with covering material, film or roofing felt.

    Another enemy of strawberries is nematodes - small worms. It is very difficult to fight them. The main way– compliance with crop rotation. Eliminate the bed after 3-4 years of fruiting and burn the remains of the plants. You can get rid of them folk remedy- pour the marigold decoction or plant marigolds in the future garden bed for several months. Before planting, when preparing the bed, you can plant it, for example, with mustard, it heals the soil. In a month, you can dig everything up and plant strawberry seedlings.


    Favorite berry
    Perhaps every gardener wants Victoria to grow on his plot - that’s what we lovingly call large-fruited garden strawberries. However, not everyone agrees with tinkering with this culture. And if they take care of the bushes, then they want to get the maximum harvest. How can this be achieved? In each period of gardening, new tricks are discovered that are used in growing this crop.
    This berry has anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, diaphoretic, diuretic, hemostatic and astringent effects. Regulates metabolism, has an anti-sclerotic effect, improves blood composition. Fresh berries used for hypertension, atherosclerosis, gastric and duodenal ulcers, constipation, and those with salt metabolism disorders. Therefore, this is not only a delicious, but also a healthy product for you and your family. The rules for growing garden strawberries are not that complicated.
    Basic rules of agricultural technology
    The main requirement for choosing a place for a plantation is that the area should be light, level, and not thickened. Even if your plantation is very small, you need to take this moment with full responsibility. Strawberries love sun and warmth. Provide sweet berry both. Keep in mind that groundwater should be no closer than 0.8 m. Experienced gardeners suggest planting strawberries quite freely. According to the scheme 50 x 80 cm. The plot is laid early autumn mustache Humus, superphosphate and potassium are added to the soil before planting the bed. After planting, strawberries must be watered and mulched. By the way, strawberries respond very well to watering. After the snow melts, winter leaves supply the plant with nutrition and protect it from return frosts. Therefore, at first, do not touch the old leaves, but remove them only when new, fresh ones grow. In the spring they bring nitrogen fertilizer- urea, and sprinkle wood ash on top of the bush. Ten days later, the bushes are watered with infusion of manure and hilled up. Water the plants regularly and abundantly before the berries begin to ripen. After harvesting, you need to remove the peduncles and tendrils. Because bushes need strength to prepare for winter. Then fertilizers are applied. Nowadays, many are keen on the “fix” idea - planting Victoria by covering the ground with black material. Let's figure out how to do this correctly.
    Let's get to know each other better
    Non-woven covering materials, unlike polyethylene, allow moisture and air to pass through, providing a comfortable temperature and humidity regime on the soil surface. Despite the fact that in the trading network you can find a variety of names for such material - spunbond, agril, agrotex, agrospan, lutrasil - the basic technology for the production of any nonwoven material is similar. Non-woven covering material combines most beneficial properties other covering materials. At the same time, it is relatively cheap and durable, and can last for more than one season. For covering the soil around plants, black agrofibre (covering material, spunbond) (mulch) 60 g/m2 is most suitable. This is a UV-resistant black fabric with a uniform structure. Lightweight and durable, environmentally friendly. Due to the presence of carbon black, the material absorbs large quantity heat, this allows for rapid warming of the soil. Weeds and their seeds die. The structure of the mulch material allows watering and application liquid fertilizers. With this cultivation, fruits and berries are kept clean. Rot and mold do not form under the material. But first, the soil must be prepared - loosen, weed, remove weed roots and apply fertilizer. Then the surface of the bed is covered with either black plastic film, or black non-woven material. When using black plastic film, remember that it does not allow moisture to pass through. It cannot be placed close to the stem of the cultivated plant, but a gap commensurate with the root system must be left. Black film can also serve for more than one season if you protect it from cuts and put it in a room with a slightly above-zero temperature for the winter.
    Black color absorbs most of the sunlight, warming the sheltered space. Weeds from lack of light under the material and high temperature are dying. Slots for plants in the material can be made in the form of a circle or crosswise. The holes must be strictly according to the diameter of the “inhabitant” - otherwise, next to cultivated plant weeds will “attach” themselves.
    The material along the edges of the area can be pressed down with bricks, sticks, pieces of slab. It is better not to cover it with earth. Based on the material, it is better not to wear shoes with sharp edges. This is exactly the mulching method that is most often used when growing strawberries. It is also convenient to cover with mulch material tree trunk circles around trees, bushes, especially berry ones, the branches of which are located close to the ground - currants, raspberries, gooseberries. Black covering material will also be appropriate in a rose garden. Bright greens A rose bush looks impressive against a dark background, and it will also reduce the time spent weeding the grass around the plantings. Mulching is carried out only on loose and moist soil. The material is not removed until the culture is eliminated.
    How to plant Victoria
    The main thing when planting on covering material is to thoroughly level the soil so that the ground does not become lumpy later. The second step you should take before laying the material is to treat the ground against pests. There is now a large selection of insecticides available for use against soil-dwelling insects. The ground has been leveled, cultivated, now we lay black covering material directly on the ground and stretch it. It is advisable to take the one that is thicker. The thin one will quickly become unusable. Along the edges, the material must be pressed tightly to the ground. For this purpose, metal staples are suitable, which securely pin the covering to the ground. All! We have prepared a “landing area”. Then we make cross-shaped cuts with a sharp knife directly along the covering material. To make the row even, you can use a rack or ruler. The edges of the cut are folded inward, and strawberries are planted in the resulting square. That's the whole procedure. The covering material allows water to pass through well, you just need to lay it down right side. And if you want to get new planting material, just place cups of soil under the mustaches of strawberries with new rosettes, they will quickly take root.”
    The main advantages of such planting are that there are no weeds, the covering material retains moisture in the soil, the plants need to be watered less often, and the berries, when ripe, do not fall into the dirt, but lie on a clean covering material. You can eat them straight from the modern garden!
    Updating landings
    You can now grow seedlings of new interesting varieties yourself. How to do it? At the very beginning of the procedure, you need to prepare the correct soil mixture substrate. It should be clean and moderately nutritious. Nettle soil with the addition of soil from a cucumber bed is good. The earth must be steamed. Add steamed vermiculite to it at the rate of one part vermiculite to two parts soil. Can serve as a container for sowing plastic box from under ice cream, for example. Just don't forget to make holes in the bottom so that it goes away. excess moisture. It is destructive for young strawberry shoots and can rot. Place the soil mixture with vermiculite into the prepared container and pour it well.
    Although the seeds of wild strawberries are very small and many gardeners prefer not to deal with such complex sowing, if you follow the suggested method, it will not be difficult to do. Place snow on the soil prepared for sowing small seeds and you can sow the seeds. Now they are clearly visible. Snow also serves as a natural plant growth stimulator. If, of course, it is collected in clean place. Sowing in snow is recommended for sowing any small seeds. When the snow begins to melt, it seems to draw the seeds to the desired depth. To get even rows of seedlings in the future, take tweezers and try to place the seeds in a row. If you don’t want to pore, then pour the seeds onto a sheet of paper and carefully, literally without breathing, sow the strawberries. Do not sprinkle small seeds on top of soil. Then they will definitely never sprout. But after sowing, you definitely need to cover the container with a lid or plastic wrap. Then you will have to periodically open it slightly to remove condensation, which can easily “kill” thin strawberry seedlings. And at first they are very gentle. They can die from excess moisture, from a draft, and from the very condensation that will accumulate on the lid. For several days, the container with the sown seeds should be placed in a warm place where there is no direct sunlight. Now be patient and do not water, do not open your miracle box until the first shoots appear.