Planting sunny daffodils in open ground. When can you plant daffodils? The best varieties of daffodils for the garden

Daffodils are wonderful spring residents of our gardens. Some of them bloom before tulips, others bloom simultaneously with them, and some species even at the beginning of summer. It is impossible to imagine a garden where daffodils would not bloom. Care after flowering is the key to this wonderful sunny flower next season it will produce good buds - after all, right now it is preparing for next year’s flowering. We usually care for daffodils in the same way as we care for tulips. This is a mistake; caring for these bulbous plants has its own nuances..

Classification of daffodils

Daffodils are so popular all over the world that they exist international classification, adopted back in 1950. Garden daffodils are divided, according to the shape of the flower, into the following groups:

• Tubular;
• Large-crowned;
• Small-crowned;
• Terry;
• Triandrusaceae;
• Cyclamenaceae;
• Joncliaceae;
• Tacet;
• Poetic;
• Daffodils with a split crown.

Natural wild varieties daffodils are separated into a separate group.

Based on these groups, many new varieties have been created. Selection continues to this day, because this flower is loved, revered and has not lost popularity for centuries.

Description

Daffodils belong to the genus monocots family Amaryllis.

Narcissus is a bulbous plant, depending on the species, reaching a height of 8 to 60 cm. Its flowers consist of a crown and tepals, and the crown can be split, and the perianth petals can be double. In addition to the usual white and yellow color, the flower can be pink, orange, even red.

One peduncle usually grows on one bulb, but multi-flowered varieties have also been bred. The flowers have a strong intoxicating-sweet smell. The leaves are long, ribbon-shaped, varying in width. The fruit is a three-locular capsule with numerous spherical seeds.

Growing conditions

Daffodils grow best in areas with loamy soils, good lighting or medium shade, if available good drainage. They can grow without transplanting for up to 4-6 years. Before planting, the soil must be fertilized and lightened by adding a mixture of sand and peat. Acidic soils are alkalized with chalk or dolomite flour. During the growing season they need additional watering, depending on natural precipitation.

Fertilizing is carried out 3 times: at the emergence of seedlings, during budding and during flowering. In the conditions of Siberia and the Non-Black Earth Zone, daffodils must be covered with peat or straw for the winter.

Daffodils after flowering

Caring for daffodils after flowering special difficulties has no idea. After flowering you need to:

• Trim the peduncle;
• Feed the flower with complex mineral fertilizer;
• If necessary, plant or replant the bulbs.

You can dissolve the fertilizer in water, or you can embed it in the top layer of soil and water it. It is now that the processes on which the flowering of the next season depends are taking place in the bulb. And for successful growing season and flowering next year they need:

• Nitrogen is building material for all parts of the plant, without it it is impossible successful growth flowers and education of children;
• Phosphorus – enhances the growth of the root system of plants; without it it is impossible to obtain large bulbs;
• Potassium – increases the plant’s resistance to unfavorable conditions and stress factors. It is this that helps the bulb to successfully overwinter in the ground and ensures long and beautiful flowering.

The foliage should not be touched after flowering. The nutrients contained in the leaves, as they wither, pass into the bulb.

When and how to plant daffodils

Flowers can grow in one place for up to 6 years, then they need to be transplanted to another place . Daffodils do not need annual replanting. Their bulbs need to be dug up and planted simultaneously with transplanting to a new location.. During this time, the flower will grow a large mother bulb and produce many children, forming a beautiful curtain.

Narcissus is one of those bulbous plants that can be replanted even while flowering. But unless absolutely necessary, this should not be done; it is better to wait until the end of the growing season.

If you have many varieties growing, and you need to plant or give a specific flower to someone, you can dig up a flowering plant with a clod of earth and immediately replant it, or wrap it in a damp cloth and give it to the future owner.

When the foliage wilts, carefully dig up the daffodils, divide them, clean them, discard damaged or diseased bulbs, and pick or trim off the wilted leaves. Dry the bulbs and store them before planting in a dry, well-ventilated area, away from sun rays, at a temperature of + 20-22 o C.

Planting daffodils

Before planting these wonderful flowers, you need to dig deep into the soil, add humus if necessary, remove all the pebbles and weed roots, and then start planting.

Immediately before planting, soak the narcissus bulb for 2-3 hours in a fungicide solution - this will destroy pathogenic bacteria that may be on its scales.

The bulb is planted to a depth equal to its height, multiplied by 3. It will be very good if 2-3 cm of sand is poured into the bottom of the hole directly under the bottom, which will improve the formation of roots and protect the bulb from rotting.

It is necessary to plant daffodil bulbs immediately after digging them up; they do not like storage - this is another difference between this flower and tulips. They do this from July to November, choosing a cloudy day with cool temperature. Immediately after planting, water and cover the plantings with a thick layer of mulch.

As you can see, caring for daffodils after flowering will not take much time, and their flowering will give you a lot of joy next season.

“He who has two loaves of bread, let him sell one,
to buy a narcissus flower.
For bread is food for the body, and daffodil is food for the soul...”
Mahomet

Narcissus (lat. Narcissus)- a genus of monocotyledonous plants of the Amaryllis family, one of the earliest spring flowers. In nature, there are about sixty species of narcissus, growing mainly in southern Europe, the Mediterranean and Asia. In culture, 25 species are used and a large number of hybrid forms, which are combined under the name “hybrid narcissus”. Since ancient times, humanity has attributed various amazing properties and quality. In the East, they often compared a flower (calling it “nargis”) with the beautiful eyes of a beloved. For the ancient Greeks, daffodil flowers were the personification of death - they were used to clean the deathbed, and in Europe during the Renaissance, daffodils, on the contrary, became a symbol of love and marriage. For Italians to this day, a bouquet of daffodils as a gift is a declaration of love.

Since time immemorial, daffodils have been used in perfumery and medicine: the name of the flower (in Greek “narkao” means “to stupefy”) there is an analogy with both the intoxicating aroma of narcissus, which causes migraines, and with poisonous properties its bulbs, and with the narcotic effect of daffodil oil. Narcissus bulbs containing the alkaloid narcissin make the flowers invulnerable to rodents. The last surge in fashion for the daffodil plant came at the end of the 19th century, and since then the fashion for it and its aroma has not gone away. Daffodils are still grown en masse in the East for the sake of essential oil. In China New Year cannot do without fragrant narcissus flowers, and in England it has become more popular even than the queen of flowers - the rose... Well, and, of course, who among us has not smelled, read or watched “Black Narcissus”?..

Listen to the article

Planting and caring for daffodils (in brief)

• Landing: August or early September.
• Excavation: after lodging and yellowing of leaves.
• Storage: in a well-ventilated area at a temperature of 17˚C.
• Bloom: spring.
• Lighting: bright sun, partial shade, shade.
• The soil: fertile, rich in humus and well drained, with a pH ranging from slightly alkaline to slightly acidic.
• Watering: regular, moderate.
• Feeding: in the spring after shoots - complete fertilizer, in the phase of peduncle emergence - with potassium-nitrogen, during budding - with a full complex, during flowering - with phosphorus and potash fertilizers. Manure cannot be used.
• Reproduction: vegetative (bulbs), less often seed.
• Pests: mites, nematodes, onion hoverflies, slugs, daffodil flies.
• Diseases: fusarium, gray mold, penicillosis, yellow and white viral stripes, ring spot.
• Properties: All parts of the plant are poisonous because they contain the alkaloid narcissin.

Narcissus flower - description

Narcissus is equipped with dense bulbs and ribbon-shaped leaves of varying widths in the amount of 2-4. Narcissus leaves are basal, linear, and grow earlier than the peduncle. The stems are leafless, flattened or round, covered with film, the flower sits on the top of the stem.

Bulbs different types daffodils have different shapes: pointed, oval, round, ovoid. In some species, the bulbs form a nest: on one bottom there are several bulbs wrapped in colored scales.

Read more about growing daffodils below.

New roots of the bulbs grow every year after the old ones die; the life of the roots lasts up to ten months. Flowers, straight or drooping, can be single or in an umbellate raceme in quantities of two to eight pieces. The petal-shaped perianth has the shape of a tubular funnel, which at the top turns into a horizontal limb; the corolla is bell-shaped, tubular or cup-shaped, formed by outgrowths of the perianth lobes, which, as a rule, have a different shade. The color of the flowers is white or yellow, sometimes two-color. Diameter – from 2 cm to 10 cm. The fruit is a three-lobed capsule with seeds. Plants are usually low - 10-50 cm. Suitable for both growing in the garden and as potted plants. Daffodils bloom in April-May.

How to grow daffodils

Daffodils appear early in the garden, one of the first, along with hyacinths, crocuses and tulips. The flower itself is not capricious, but it is better for sloths not to mess with it, because only a responsible gardener can grow a daffodil the way it should be. It is very important to choose a suitable site for planting daffodils: it should be well-lit, permeable, neutral loam fertilized with compost or humus, but not manure, is considered the most favorable soil. If the soil is too alkaline, you can add dolomite flour 200 g per square meter, and high acidity is reduced wood ash at the rate of 1 glass per 1 m².

Do not plant daffodils where tulips, lilies or other bulbs, or perennial asters, phlox and chrysanthemums have recently grown. But after cereals, legumes, nightshades, peonies and cucumbers - please.

Narcissus bulbs

When warm days arrive, daffodil bulbs are planted in the ground. In the spring, many stores sell stale goods for next to nothing, and this is a good chance to buy bulbs of rare varieties of daffodils cheaply. Just be careful: do not buy soft or weakened bulbs, which may not sprout at all, but if the plant, despite your fears, does grow, try to pay more attention to it. The best time to buy daffodil bulbs is three months after flowering.

Planting daffodils

When to plant daffodils

Narcissus planting is carried out in accordance with the weather conditions of the region. Traditionally, daffodils, like all bulbs, are planted in the fall. In the middle lane best time for planting daffodils - September, since daffodils need 3-4 weeks to take root.

You can plant daffodils in early spring, and even in winter, but there is one condition: before planting in the ground, the bulbs should be kept in the refrigerator for two months, otherwise the daffodils will not be able to take root well and will not bloom.

Bulbs stored in the refrigerator can be planted in mid- to late April if the snow has melted by then. Spring daffodils They root best at a temperature of 5-7 ºC.

In the photo: Planting daffodils

In our conditions middle zone Narcissus shoots appear around mid-April, the timing varies depending on the conditions of the current growing season. Daffodils are recognized as a fairly unpretentious crop in terms of growing conditions and easy to care for, but every gardener knows that in the spring he will not only have to admire the flowers, but also work intensively on his plot. What needs to be done first, what to pay attention to when... spring care for daffodils?

At the first opportunity (after the snow cover has melted and the soil has partially dried out), the planted area is inspected; if the plants have been covered since autumn, the cover is removed as soon as the threat of night frosts has passed (seedlings and buds can only be damaged by negative night temperatures, –10...–15ºС, for a long time). The cover is removed carefully, trying not to damage the emerging seedlings. Deformed plants develop from damaged or broken seedlings.

When examining, you need to pay attention to the presence or absence of seedlings. Late varieties or varieties planted later than the recommended dates, respectively, and grow and bloom later than early and mid-flowering varieties or varieties planted in optimal timing. Therefore, do not panic if you notice that there are no sprouts in some places, this does not necessarily mean that the bulbs have died. If you need to make sure that the plants have not died, you can carefully dig out a layer of soil at the planting site with your hands. If there were seedlings in the ground and a dense bulb, the plant did not die. If the bulb is soft and rotten, it must be removed urgently to prevent an outbreak of the disease.

After a snowy winter with rapid snow melting, prolonged stagnation of water on the soil surface may occur. This adversely affects the condition of the bulbs; they are easily affected by fungal diseases, rot and die. In problem areas with high standing groundwater drainage systems arranged in advance (you can simply dig ditches around the perimeter of the site). If the flood is unexpected, water is drained by digging small ditches.

To prevent an outbreak of fungal diseases, it is necessary to inspect the seedlings. Plants with signs of disease (twisted, deformed seedlings of yellow-brown color, dry) are removed along with the bulb. If the lesion is very large, you can treat the plants with a solution of pesticides (following the instructions and precautions). Signs of disease must be differentiated from signs of damage from cutting tools(hoe, hoe, etc.).

Despite the fact that rodents (in particular, mice) do not damage daffodil bulbs, “mousing” dogs tear up the ground to a depth of up to half a meter, and the bulbs end up completely different from where they were planted or on the surface of the ground. The broken order can be restored: plant the bulbs in the right place (there is a chance that they are not damaged by frost), bury the dug holes.

When the soil on the site dries out, you can begin to loosen it. In those places where there are no seedlings on the soil surface for some reason, loosening is postponed so as not to damage the plants. The best option– combine loosening and root dressings mineral fertilizers. The first two feedings are carried out during the period of regrowth and during budding with nitrogen-containing fertilizer, the third feeding - during flowering, with a complex fertilizer. If possible, after applying fertilizers, water the soil, or alternate root and foliar feeding.

Watering not only helps nutrients from mineral fertilizers penetrate into the root system, but also significantly affects appearance plants (the height of the peduncle, the size and brightness of the flower) and somewhat prolong flowering. In this case, watering should not be with strong pressure, so as not to break the plants and erode the soil. Surface watering is ineffective; it is necessary that the soil is soaked evenly to the depth of the root system. A sprinkler is best suited for this purpose.

Unfortunately, in the spring, not only the plants we want and need grow and bloom, but also unplanned weeds. It is better to remove them immediately when they appear, while they have not yet gained strength. A more advantageous option is if the daffodils are planted on the lawn or the soil around the plantings is decorated with a covering (pebbles, bark, colored sawdust). In this case, weeds do not appear or appear in single quantities and are easy to control.

During the flowering period, our main task is to admire beautiful flowers in our flower beds. But if the purpose of growing daffodils is to preserve the purity of the variety, it is necessary to remove impurities from other varieties (dig it up along with the bulb). An impurity can get into the variety both during planting and during pre-sale preparation (if you buy planting material secondhand or from unknown companies).

When growing daffodils for a bouquet, cutting is done in the budding phase (the bud has already colored, but the flower has not yet bloomed). If you purposefully grow daffodils to obtain planting material or bulbs for forcing, blooming flowers must be removed. In flower beds, ugly dried buds are cut off (sometimes with part of the peduncle) to preserve decorative look plantings, and the leaves remain green for about a month and do not spoil the impression of the flowerbed, mixborder or edging.

When drawing an image of spring in one’s imagination, such an integral detail as the blooming of daffodils always pops up. Fragile appearance and delicate aroma will captivate the hearts of flower connoisseurs. And simple planting and caring for daffodils in open ground made it a favorite among all summer residents who want to decorate spring garden elegance and bright colors.

These flowers appear among the first in the front garden, like crocuses and tulips, and are considered the most unpretentious bulbous plants. However, in order to grow a daffodil bright and attractive, you should even approach it wisely. initial stage- landing.

Place and soil

An important point is the choice of area for planting bulbs, taking into account the soil composition. Ideal option There will be a well-lit area with neutral loamy soil, where nitroammophoska is additionally added at the rate of 60 g per 1 m2, compost or humus. Excess alkali in the soil is neutralized with dolomite flour at the rate of 200 g per 1 m2, and increased level acidity is reduced by adding one glass of wood flour to the same area.

Advice! You should not place daffodils after other bulbous crops - tulips, lilies. The optimal predecessors are cereals, legumes and nightshade representatives.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Flower shops offer a wide range of daffodil bulbs different varieties, which in spring period often sold at large discounts due to the staleness of the goods.

• integrity and absence of rotten areas;
• size - if the diameter is less than 5 cm, the bulb must be grown, which will slow down germination;
• hardness.

Before planting, a thorough inspection is carried out and damaged, rotten material is rejected. Healthy bulbs are disinfected with a fungicidal agent or potassium permanganate solution with a concentration of 1%

Advice! It is better to purchase planting material three months after the flowers have finished blooming.

When and how to plant daffodils?

Daffodils are planted depending on the climate of the region. The basic rule is a soil temperature of 8 to 10°C, maintained throughout three weeks while the flower takes root.

Typically, bulbous crops are planted in autumn time. You can plant the bulbs in the spring, making sure to keep them in the refrigerator for two months in advance so that the daffodils take root and bloom the same year.

1. Planting in spring. Holes are dug at a distance of 10 cm, subject to future planting, and 20 cm if further growth of flowers is planned in the next five years. Before placing the bulb in landing hole sand is poured in to improve the drainage qualities of the soil. After disembarkation garden soil mulched with sawdust, straw or mowed grass 3-4 cm thick. This will save the grower from unnecessary weeding, loosening and protect the soil from weathering.
2. Planting in autumn. IN autumn period bulbs are planted according to the same principle as in the spring. After the arrival of frost, the area with flower bulbs is covered with leaf fruit trees or nut.

Important! When calculating the depth of the hole, the diameter of the bulb is taken as a basis, which is multiplied by three.

Caring for a Narcissist

The quality of care influences the production of beautiful, graceful spring flowers with delicate aromatic notes.

Watering and loosening

During dry conditions weather conditions from the end of spring, daffodils need regular moisture throughout the life of the above-ground part of the plant: after flowering, watering allows the bulb to accumulate more nutrients. If the area is not mulched, the beds need loosening and weeding after each irrigation.

Temperature

Air and soil temperature regimes influence the onset and duration of the flowering phase. Optimal temperature values ​​are considered to be 15°C for air and 10°C for soil.

Fertilizer application

When cultivated in the front garden, early spring flowers need to be fed twice:

1. A complex of mineral fertilizers is introduced into the budding phase: at a consumption of the working solution of 5 liters per 1 m2, superphosphate, potassium sulfate and urea (one teaspoon of each substance) are diluted in 10 liters of water.
2. Special fertilizer is applied for flowering plants with the addition of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium: two teaspoons of Agricol and one nitroammophoska are diluted in 10 liters of water.

IN rainy weather liquid fertilizers are replaced by a one-time application of dry fertilizers in early spring - per 1 m2, one teaspoon of potassium sulfate, superphosphate, urea and one tablespoon of wood ash.

Disease and pest control

The crop is affected by fusarium, rot, and is also colonized by daffodil flies, tuberculate and onion hoverflies, onion and root mites, slugs, and nematodes.

As protective measures, plants are treated twice:

1. Before the formation of buds, spraying with insectoacaricidal preparations is organized according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Upon completion of flowering, daffodils are treated with a solution copper sulfate at the rate of 100 g of the substance per 10 liters of water, with a consumption of 2 liters of working fluid per 10 m2, or with the “HOM” preparation with the same consumption rate, prepared by diluting 40 g of the product in 10 liters of water.

Transfer

If the gardener notices that the flowers have become smaller and worse in quality, then it is time to replant the daffodils. When transplanting it is used vegetative method culture propagation - dividing the bulb.

Care after flowering

Depending on the gardener’s plans, two algorithms can be used:

1. When leaving the bulbs in the ground for further growth, it is necessary to cut off the above-ground part after drying, loosen the soil and clear it of weeds. In the second half of August, if there is a drought, it is necessary to water the area: the bulbs begin to form new roots.
2. In case of transplantation or propagation, planting material is excavated. But you need to know when to dig up the bulbs. Their cleaning begins after natural withering leaves, usually in July.

Advice! If the grower has decided to dig up the bulbs, then one should not delay the time too long after the leaf blades turn yellow: the daffodils quickly begin to take root.

Reproduction methods

Two methods are used for breeding daffodils: vegetative and seed.

Vegetative method

During growing season On average, two to four are formed from one bulb.

If you want or need to get new copies, you should adhere to the following steps:

1. The dug up mother bulbs along with the daughter bulbs are cleaned of faded remains.
2. Planting material is inspected for rejection and destruction of diseased or damaged bulbs.
3. Healthy specimens are peeled, washed, disinfected for half an hour in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, and then divided.
4. First, the specimens are separated, falling off effortlessly, and those that are tightly pressed to the mother ones swing for independent separation.
5. If the bulb comes off, the broken area is sprinkled with charcoal or activated carbon.
6. Then the separated specimens are dried in a shaded place and placed for storage in a room with a constant temperature of no higher than 17 ºC.

Attention! You should not delay the time before planting: after a while, the bulbs lose moisture. The optimal storage interval from digging to planting is two months.

Seed method

The method consists in sowing freshly harvested, not properly dried seeds at the height of the summer season or late autumn as follows:

1. The seeds are sown not too thickly in a box or open ground to a depth of three seed diameters.
2. During the first two years, the seedlings are not disturbed, which allows the bulb to grow stronger.
3. At the end of two years of dormancy, young specimens are planted on permanent place growth.

For the first time, such daffodils form buds after at least three years.

Attention! The seed method is permissible only for wild varieties: with this method, varietal qualities are not inherited by new specimens.

So, by following a number of simple rules for growing daffodils, every gardener will enjoy the spring tenderness of his garden.

Almost every personal plot In spring you can see aerial daffodils. But real connoisseurs and lovers of these beautiful flowers usually plant several varieties of plants on their plots at once so that they can please the eye for as long as possible.

When can daffodils be replanted?

• Daffodils can be replanted in the last week of September and at the beginning of October. This allows the bulbs to take root before frost sets in and not grow again. Otherwise, the flowers may die. The planting depth primarily depends on the size of the bulb itself and the composition of the soil. Usually it is equal to the height, which is 3 times more height bulbs and ranges from 15 to 30 cm. If the soil is light, then the depth increases by 4 cm, and if it is heavy, it decreases by the same amount. The distance between the bulbs should not be less than 15 cm and more than 20 cm.

• It is necessary to make holes in fertilized and pre-dug soil. Place a small amount of sand at the bottom to ensure drainage. Then plant the flowers, placing them at the required depth and distance from each other. Then the holes should be watered, but it is not recommended to over-moisten them, as this can cause rotting. To prevent the bulbs from freezing, it is advisable to cover the soil with dry grass or mulch.
• It is important not only to replant daffodils, but also to provide them with proper care. During growth in the beds, it is recommended to weed the weeds, loosen the soil, fertilize and regular watering. The first application of fertilizer should be done after the snow has melted and the mulch can be removed. Well-rotted compost with humus or light inorganic fertilizers should be added to the soil. After which the rows must be covered with soil.
• It will not hurt to add complex mineral fertilizers to the soil, which are also advisable to apply during bud setting and especially after flowering. After the daffodils have bloomed complex fertilizers should be added in the following composition: phosphorus, potassium and sodium in a ratio of 1.5 to 1.5 to 1. After flowering, daffodils will need both loosening the soil and watering for 20 days. During the same period, dried flowers should be removed, and in order for the daffodils to bloom next year, the leaves on them should be left until completely dry.
• Although daffodils are frost-resistant plants, in very harsh winters they can also suffer from severe frosts. And thaws in winter have a negative effect on them, forcing them to wake up ahead of time. And when the cold weather returns, they suffer from low temperatures. To prevent this from happening, the place where the daffodils are transplanted should be covered with mulch, and when low temperatures established, it is better to cover the plant. When the threat of frost has passed in the spring, the mulch can be removed.

When to dig up daffodils?

It is very important to dig up daffodils after a large nest of bulbs has formed in the old place. It is also necessary when the number of flowering shoots decreases significantly. You need to remove the bulbs as soon as the leaves fall down and turn yellow. It is recommended to do this as early as possible, so that late digging does not negatively affect the quality of planting material.

As soon as the leaves turn yellow, but are not completely dry, the daffodil bulbs can also be dug up. This usually happens in June. After this, the bulbs must be dried.

Then it is important to carefully examine them in order to remove those that are affected by diseases or pests. After which it is recommended to burn the bad bulbs. Healthy narcissus bulbs should be cleaned of old roots and soil, washed in water, disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate and dried for outdoors. Then put it in a well-ventilated room, protected from the sun with a temperature of +17 degrees.

When can you plant daffodils?

You can plant daffodils in the fall, especially when they grow. By the 3rd year of life, the young plant bulb is filled with vitality and at this moment it can be dug up for subsequent replanting in the fall. Next year from daughter bulbs you can already expect good flowering. Since the plant’s strength is exhausted every year, the quality of flowering gradually begins to weaken.

You can grow daffodils in one place for no more than 5 years.But in order not to dig up daffodils every year, before planting the bulbs, you should carefully select a site for planting them. It should be well lit by the sun or in partial shade. The soil is rich in nutrients, be slightly acidic or neutral. When too acidic soil it can be improved by adding ash. But since daffodils are too demanding of moisture, it is best to opt for loamy soils that can retain moisture well.

Full care of daffodils after flowering includes removing dried buds, watering, weeding, loosening and feeding with complex mineral fertilizers for 6 weeks. You can also trim them, leaving leaves 2 cm long at the root. Next, they should wither and dry out naturally. It is not necessary to dig them up in the first years of life, especially if the soil was well prepared and fertilized before planting the bulbs. But for the winter, daffodils must be covered so that they do not get sick or die from temperature changes. Adhering to such simple rules, You can grow the most daffodils different varieties by improving your garden.