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DIY panel ceiling. PVC suspended ceiling: marking, frame, installation of panels

  • Familiar Stranger
  • Preparing the base ceiling
  • Sheathing device
  • Installation plastic panels

Until recently, there were not many ways to decorate the ceiling. Whitewash, paint with water-based emulsion. The brave souls still dared to wallpaper the ceiling - and that was it. And today there are suspended ceilings, suspended ceilings, mirrored ceilings, stained glass ceilings, etc.

Covering the ceiling with plastic panels is the simplest, most economical and quick way finishing.

Today, one of the most popular, especially among those who like to do everything around the house with their own hands, is a plastic ceiling. This popularity is due to the fact that making a plastic ceiling is quite simple, especially for those who have had to deal with the installation of suspended ceilings, and it will cost only a little more than a plasterboard ceiling.

Familiar Stranger

Strictly speaking, the ceiling is made of plastic suspended ceiling.

It is attached to the main ceiling using special hangers on a frame made of metal profiles or wooden slats. Only the material for the panels, instead of drywall, is polyvinyl chloride, one of the safest and healthiest types of plastic. Suffice it to say that in addition to wall and ceiling panels, food containers are made from PVC.

You can easily make such a ceiling with your own hands, giving it an attractive appearance. Panel seams will not be visible on it, moreover, it will last you much longer than its plasterboard counterpart, and it requires very minimal personal care - remove dust from the plastic from time to time. This is easy to do with a damp cloth, since plastic is absolutely not afraid of water.

When choosing panels, it is important not to confuse and not buy wall panels instead of ceiling ones. Although they are made from the same material, they differ significantly. Wall panels are much heavier compared to ceiling panels, which makes a huge difference.

If you mount such panels on the ceiling, you will get a significant load on its frame. And this is fraught: one fine day the frame may simply not hold up, and the ceiling will collapse. And if you install ceiling panels on a wall, they will become deformed over time, as they mechanical strength much lower.

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Preparing the base ceiling

Types of plastic panels.

Making such a plastic ceiling with your own hands is no more difficult than a regular suspended ceiling made of plasterboard. Installation of any suspended ceiling, incl. and plastic, you should start by preparing the base ceiling. Its surface must be thoroughly cleaned of exfoliated lime or plaster and treated with an antifungal solution.

Then you need to take care of the electrical wiring running along the ceiling. Indeed, in most cases, lamps and chandeliers will be mounted on the ceiling. Before installing the ceiling, you need to secure the wires and at least lead them to the switch. The wires must be reliably insulated. Joking with electricity is dangerous, so if you do not have sufficient experience in this matter, it is better to seek help from a specialist.

To install a plastic ceiling yourself, you will need the following tools:

PVC panel fastening diagram.

  • hammer drill or electric drill with a pobedit drill bit;
  • hacksaw for metal;
  • construction knife;
  • roulette;
  • square;
  • break paint cord;
  • water level;
  • screwdriver

Don't forget to purchase the following materials:

  • antifungal solution;
  • pendants;
  • dowels (you must take the same diameter as the drill you will use to drill the holes);
  • plastic panels;
  • ceiling profiles;
  • self-tapping screws

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Sheathing device

Installation of plastic ceilings.

Frame for plastic ceiling can be made from either wooden slats or a metal guide profile. The second option is still preferable, since the metal is less susceptible to changing its dimensions under the influence of temperature and humidity.

You need to decide in advance how far you will lower the panels. At the same time, you need to take into account the depth of your lamps - mainly from 5 to 10 cm. Having decided on the height, you need to install and fix the profile guides strictly horizontally. It’s better not to rush here and double-check everything several times. Otherwise, if you rush and install the profile incorrectly, you will be left with no other choice but to make the ceiling slanted, which will immediately catch your eye.

From the base ceiling at the corners of one of the walls, the required distance is measured down. It is important that the marked marks are at the same level, so be sure to check their location using a water level. Then these two marks are connected into one horizontal line using a cord.

Taking the measured horizontal line as a guide, you need to draw the same lines along the entire perimeter of the room, checking them with a level. This will be the horizontal plane to make the ceiling even.

The next step in installation will be the installation of metal guide profiles along the marked boundary. The profiles are attached directly to the wall by drilling holes in it with a puncher or drill, using plastic dowels and galvanized screws for fastening.

In order not to disturb the horizontal position when attaching profiles, the end of the unattached profile is placed at the end of the attached one, then its other end is laid strictly according to the markings, and the profile along its entire length is attached to the wall.

Having finished installing the profile on the walls, you need to install the profile on the ceiling itself. To do this, straight hangers need to be fixed on the ceiling along the direction of installation of the ceiling profile in increments of 50-60 cm. The hangers need to be fixed strictly along a straight line, beating it off using a painting cord. Ceiling profiles are attached to these suspensions, and the ends of the guide profiles fixed to the walls are laid. With such a suspended ceiling design, there is no danger that one day it will fall on your head.

Plastic panels are one of the ways to quickly, beautifully and inexpensively decorate the ceiling in various rooms with your own hands.

Ceiling panels are much lighter than plastic wall panels. Don't get confused.

Typically, such panels are produced 2.7 - 3 m long and 25 or 30 cm wide. There are special locks on the long sides that ensure a good and strong connection between the panels. Methods for mounting such a ceiling include the use wooden frame from bars or metal profiles used for installation plasterboard ceilings. One of the advantages of installing such a ceiling is the low weight of the materials used. The panels are hollow inside, but numerous stiffening ribs give them the necessary strength.

Preparation of materials and tools

Before you purchase necessary materials, you need to think about the design of the ceiling: the direction of the panels, the use of various plastic profiles, the design of the frame.

Installation of a plastic ceiling does not require the use of any complex instruments. Everything you need is in every home:

To make holes for lamps on the ceiling, use a drill with an attachment (the so-called “crown”).

  • hammer;
  • sharp knife;
  • hand saw;
  • miter box for cutting profiles;
  • drill or screwdriver;
  • roulette;
  • level.

For determining required quantity materials you need to calculate the area of ​​the ceiling. Next, based on the sizes of the selected PVC panels, their quantity is determined, not forgetting to add approximately 15% for trimming the material.

The frame for a suspended ceiling made of plastic strips can be made of wooden beam(20 x 40 mm) and metal profile. Since this ceiling is made in most cases in kitchens, bathrooms, balconies and loggias, that is, places with high humidity, the use of a metal profile will be more preferable. In dry rooms, you can make lathing from timber, having previously treated the wood with antiprene and antiseptic impregnation to improve fire-resistant properties and protection from damage. In low rooms with relatively flat ceilings With maximum difference up to 5 mm, you can use aluminum and plastic profiles designed for PVC installations ceiling panels. In the center of such profiles there are grooves for attaching clips to the base that will hold the panels.

During the installation process, dowels will be used to secure the frame to the ceiling and around the perimeter of the room, screws and self-tapping screws, metal clips or screws with a press washer. Their approximate number can only be determined when the frame design is selected.

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Preparatory work

Inserting a panel into the start profile.

A ceiling made of plastic panels will completely hide the main ceiling. Despite this, the base must be thoroughly cleaned of damaged plaster, putty between slabs, and old finishing materials that may simply fall off over time. After this, the cleaned surface is primed.

Before constructing the frame, it is necessary to mark it. A line is drawn along the perimeter of the room, which will indicate the level of the future suspended ceiling. When choosing the height of lowering the ceiling, you need to take into account the unevenness of the base, the presence of communications, existing wiring, and plan the installation of lighting fixtures. To lay electrical wiring, a gap must be provided, the minimum height of which must be at least 2 cm.

Measurements are taken from the lowest point of the base. Having placed the first mark, it is transferred using a level to all walls. In order to receive straight lines along the entire perimeter, use twine rubbed with bright chalk. Having stretched the string along the marks along the wall, it is slightly pulled back and released - you get an even, clearly visible line.

Next, markup is done supporting elements frame on the ceiling. To avoid sagging of the plastic, the lathing should be frequent. The profile or bars should be located every 40 - 60 cm, perpendicular to the direction of the plastic panels.

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Frame assembly

The method of mounting the frame depends on the materials chosen for it. Let's look at each of them:

Installation PVC boards on the frame.

  1. timber wooden sheathing it is attached to the ceiling with dowels at intervals of 60 cm. To bring it to one level along the lower edge, wooden pads are inserted between the ceiling and the beam.
  2. When installing plastic sheathing, use a U-shaped plastic profile(plinth), which is fixed along the perimeter of the room in increments of 25 - 30 cm. At the same time, make sure that its lower edge runs along the line previously marked on the walls. To join the profile in the corners, it is cut with a hacksaw using a miter box - this is the only way to get a minimal, neat gap.
  3. The frame of their metal profile is assembled in the following sequence:
  • a rigid profile is attached to the dowels around the perimeter, making sure that it is positioned strictly horizontally;
  • According to the markings on the ceiling, direct suspensions are fastened using dowels;
  • if the length of straight standard hangers is not enough, it is necessary to use anchor hangers with clamps instead;
  • the distance between hangers should not exceed 60 cm;
  • attach the metal profile to the hangers;
  • unlike plasterboard ceilings, the installation of plastic panels does not require the installation of a transverse profile;
  • installation of transverse profiles is needed only to strengthen the installation site of the chandelier;
  • the final stage of frame installation is fastening to the guide profile plastic cornice or starting profile (wide side up);
  • for joining in the corners, the cornices are cut using a miter box, and the profile can be inserted into each other at the corner, attached and a diagonal cut made with a sharp knife.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of conventional pvc lining as a ceiling covering? How is it mounted on the ceiling? What should you consider during the installation process? Let's figure it out.

Material selection

Advantages

How good are polyvinyl chloride (PVC) panels as ceiling materials?

To understand this, let's remember physicochemical characteristics PVC itself.

  • The material is chemically inert. At room temperature it is not afraid of alkalis and most acids.
  • Polyvinyl chloride is waterproof and non-hygroscopic.
  • It has a small coefficient of thermal expansion for plastic (for example, only three times more than aluminum).
  • PVC is quite heat-resistant: it begins to soften at temperatures above 80 degrees. This temperature is difficult to achieve even with the gas stove in the kitchen in the hot summer.

What does this mean for us from a practical point of view, in relation to the ceiling?

  • A ceiling made of PVC panels is suitable for both wet and hot rooms.
  • The panels can be fastened rigidly, without any tricks in the form of grooves or floating fasteners.
  • Any splashes, grease and soot will be washed off with regular household chemicals. The surface will not be damaged.

Please note: of course, all abrasive powders and pastes should be removed from the list. They will inevitably leave small scratches on a glossy surface.

It is especially worth noting that ceiling made of plastic lining absolutely not afraid of flooding. Does your upstairs neighbor have an overflowing bathtub or a rusty pipe? All you need to do is wipe the ceiling with a damp cloth. This will be the end of the incident.

Was it heating from above? No, we haven't heard.

Combined with the cost of plastic lining, which is simply ridiculous compared to slatted and other suspended ceilings, we have a material with an excellent combination of cheapness and functionality.

Flaws

So that the victorious farfars do not drown out our healthy skepticism, we will also mention a couple of shortcomings of the material.

  • The seams will be visible even on panels whose creators intended the seams to be hidden. At least from a short distance.
  • Like any suspended ceiling, a clapboard structure will steal a few centimeters of room height from us. However, if the ceiling does not have large irregularities- very little.

Which panels to choose?

Manufacturers produce panels with visible and hidden seams; glossy and matte; with or without a pattern; dense (wall) and thin (ceiling). Often the panels imitate the texture of wood. In addition, they vary in width.

Which of this variety is suitable for our purposes?

Color

The most universal color is, of course, white. It goes great with ANY color scheme wallpaper, flooring and furniture and makes the room visually higher.

The use of PVC panels makes it possible to make a ceiling with a frame in a contrasting color or even with alternating panels of different colors.

All other things being equal, glossy panels are preferable. They create the illusion of depth to a greater extent, again making the room visually more voluminous.

Any textured pattern is absolutely inappropriate on the ceiling. If you like stylized wood coverings, it is better to purchase wall panels made from MDF (pressed hardboard). The imitation texture looks much more convincing on them than on plastic.

Density

Despite the fact that less dense panels are called ceiling panels, we need the densest ones from the entire range. Why? The point is not in reliability, but in the form of panels for light. AND Sun rays from the window, and artificial lighting will inevitably show through thin-walled panels. But thick-walled lining does not suffer from this.

The seam

If the ceiling uses built-in lamps or any other foreign inclusions, panels with a dedicated seam can fit into general concept. However, for a smooth ceiling, glossy white dense panels with a hidden seam and having a maximum width are most suitable.

Calculation of purchases

We will need to purchase material for the sheathing and the PVC panels themselves.

Tip: in dry rooms you can use battens as lathing. But only in absolutely dry conditions: if there are any fluctuations in humidity throughout the year, the sheathing can move along with ceiling covering. That is why in the future we will consider a frame made of galvanized profiles for drywall.

So, what should we rely on when purchasing?

  • Calculating the ceiling area multiplying the length by the width of the room.
  • Pushing away from her calculate the number of panels. The area of ​​one panel is indicated on the packaging; dividing the area of ​​the room by the area of ​​the panel, add 15-20 percent to the resulting number for trimming.
  • UD profile quantity(a wide rigid profile that we will install around the perimeter of the room) must be purchased exactly according to the length of the perimeter (of course, rounded to the whole number of planks).
  • CD profile quantity, which will make up the sheathing itself, is calculated based on its location perpendicular to the panels every half meter.

The number of screws for fastening is taken with some reserve: a certain number of them will inevitably be damaged and lost.

In addition, we will need dowels with screws to attach the profile to the walls; L-shaped profile or ceiling plinth for framing the edges of the ceiling and tools: an angle grinder with a cutting wheel for metal, a hammer drill with a drill, a level, a tape measure, a pencil and a screwdriver with a Phillips bit.

You will also need any universal glue (Titanium, its analogues or liquid nails).

Basic Operations

Finally we move on to the hidden. So, how to make a ceiling from panels yourself? accessible to everyone if you know the technology of the process.

  • Mark the location of the UD profile by level. Precisely by level: the overlap will not necessarily be horizontal or even even.
  • Drill holes for fasteners. The distance between the attachment points should be no more than a meter. Cut to size and attach the UD profile. It is often cut with metal scissors, but it is much more convenient and faster to do this with a grinder.

Attention: if you plan to lay any communications above the suspended ceiling, they must already be laid by the time the profile is attached.

  • Attach a CD profile every half meter. To attach it to the UD fixed around the perimeter of the room, use self-tapping screws and a screwdriver: attaching the profile with a screwdriver is, to put it mildly, very tedious.

  • If an L-shaped profile is used as a ceiling edging, it is attached next to the perimeter of the room. It is better to join the corners at an angle of 45 degrees; The same grinder is used for cutting. It is very convenient for her to cut plastic; only protect your lungs from dust. Leave the side where the last panel will lie without a profile for now.
  • Then we move on to . It’s better not to mark several pieces at once, but to adjust each one to its location: the walls are not always parallel. The panel is joined to the previous one, after which its ridge is attached to the CD and UD profiles with self-tapping screws. And here we use a grinder for cutting.
  • The last panel is the most difficult to fit. Once it is cut exactly to size, connect it to the L-shaped profile and place the edge of the panel with glue. In case if instead of a profile it is used

With the advent of inexpensive building plastic, it has become much easier to repair the ceiling, and the reduction of costs and easy installation has added to the presentable appearance of the structure. Indeed, practical glossy panels in the bathroom or kitchen look elegant and quite appropriate, and their design is not inferior to the design of plasterboard and tension systems. Thanks to a wide range of ready-made building materials You can make a suspended ceiling out of plastic with your own hands, and the result will be practically no different from the work of professional craftsmen.

Why is plastic better than other materials?

The first question that arises when mentioning plastic suspended ceilings concerns their safety for people or animals. Modern artificial panels made of polyvinyl chloride are absolutely harmless. Modifications of PVC are used not only for the production of building materials, but also for the production of tableware, food packaging, and souvenirs.

At the same time, plastic, unlike wood, is lightweight, and for the installation of a ceiling this is an important factor. In addition, PVC parts have a smooth, non-porous texture, whereas natural material– wood – changes shape and weight with changes in temperature or air humidity in a limited space.

Plastic is perfect for finishing ceilings in modern kitchens

One of important advantages for utility rooms and bathrooms - practicality. The slats and panels do not need to be renewed with paint; it is enough to wipe them with a slightly dampened cloth several times a year. More heavy pollution are removed by traditional detergentslaundry soap or cleaning gel. Abrasive powders It is not recommended to use them as they can scratch smooth surface, it is especially easy to spoil the appearance of mirror and glossy elements.

The ease of installation of a structure made of PVC panels is also one of the advantages of this material. Even without special training, you can design and create a frame from a metal profile or wooden slats, and then attach it to it plastic parts. Anyone who knows how to use a screwdriver or drill will be able to do this.

Let’s not forget that a plastic suspended ceiling perfectly masks communications: ventilation pipes and electrical wiring. PVC panels also perfectly hide thermal insulation mats. In case of flooding from above, even repairs will not be required, although, suppose, the drywall becomes unusable, and tension structure has to be restored. As you can see, plastic ceilings have enough advantages.

Sample of a ceiling made from fragments of textured plastic panels: thanks to segments of different lengths, an interesting pattern is formed

Selection of plastic panels

Consumable plastic can be divided into two categories - wide panels, most often glossy or matte, and narrow slats, reminiscent of wooden “lining” in size. The assembly principle for both types is the same: the parts are folded parallel end-to-end, one after another, over the entire ceiling area. It is not necessary to place elements along or across the walls; some fans lay them diagonally, although this method is a little more difficult to implement.

Considering the interior of the room, you can choose colored panels - most often they are painted in pastel, pale colors. There are options with a pattern, but they should be used extremely carefully, and the ornament on the plastic should be compatible in style with the wallpaper, tiles and furnishings.

Having chosen the color and size of the parts, you need to calculate their quantity. The dimensions of the panels are indicated on the labels, therefore, knowing total area rooms, it is easy to calculate the number of pieces: divide the area of ​​the room by the area of ​​one part. 1-2 additional element will not interfere, since some of the panels have to be trimmed.

Samples of panels with natural-themed drawings

When purchasing, pay attention to the following nuances:

  • the same color of the elements of the entire batch;
  • integrity of cardboard or film packaging;
  • no scratches or chips on the plastic.

Pay special attention to the thickness of the panels. As a rule, ceiling-mounted units are slightly thinner than wall-mounted ones, their average thickness is 8-10 mm, the most reliable is 12.5 mm.

In addition to panels of traditional white Colored plastic is widely used

What materials and tools will be required

In addition to plastic panels for suspended ceilings, you will need a number of materials for the frame and a set of tools:

  • starting (carrying) profile;
  • connecting H-profile;
  • corner (end) F-profile;
  • ceiling plinth;
  • corners (external and internal).

In the process of drawing up a project, it is necessary to draw a diagram of the layout of the panels and calculate approximately how many will be required consumables. Don’t forget about lamps, wires and fasteners - dowels and screws.

Standard kit tools will most likely be found on the farm, the rest will have to be purchased: a drill, a screwdriver, a hacksaw or a circular saw, carpenter's knife.

Mirror panels visually increase the height of the ceiling in the bathroom

Installation instructions for a plastic ceiling

The proposed step-by-step plan is the basis for the construction of a plastic suspended ceiling simplest design. It is suitable for decorating a kitchen, bathroom or hallway, rectangular or square shape. The instructions can be supplemented or slightly changed if required. design solution.

Surface preparation and marking

Preparatory work consist in removing all unnecessary from the surface of the ceiling - old paint, fragments of plaster. If there are large cracks, they must be filled with putty. Concrete plates in rooms with high level humidity should be treated with a composition against mold and mildew.

Then, using a level and tape measure, you need to make markings for the guide profile. The distance from the ceiling surface to the starting level is at least 10 cm, and preferably 12-15. The height of the ceilings will noticeably decrease; it is for this reason that it is not recommended to install suspended structures in typical panel and brick housing with a ceiling height of 2 m 50 cm.

Ready frame from a guide and ceiling profile in the bathroom

Installation of a profile box

Properly installed profile frame– guarantee of long service life and reliability of the suspended structure. The procedure for installing a box made of a metal profile (the lathing made of wooden slats is attached according to the same principle):

  1. We drill holes for dowels in the walls and fix the guide profile.
  2. We connect the parts together with special fasteners - “bugs”.
  3. We attach the suspensions to the ceiling - in a straight line, at intervals of 50-55 cm.
  4. We mount a ceiling profile to the suspensions, onto which the plastic panels will be attached.

If necessary, if the room is more than 4 meters long, we extend the profile in sections using longitudinal connectors or simply fasten it with self-tapping screws.

Fastening plastic panels with pre-installed spotlights

Installation of plastic panels

The final stage which should be done slowly and very carefully. We free each part from the film and, if necessary, cut off the excess part using a grinder. You can work with a hacksaw or jigsaw, but in this case the process will be delayed. The length of each panel should be 4-5 mm shorter than the length of the room. We sand the edges and fasten them to the profile with self-tapping screws.

From the following panels, folded end to end, we assemble a smooth canvas. For glossy parts, the seams will be barely noticeable; for elements with a pattern, they will appear more clearly. There will be small grooves between the thin slats. We cut off the last part according to the width of the remaining space.

Standard layout of plastic panels

We cut out the holes for the lamps with a knife; the wiring to them was laid during the installation of the frame. Spotlights come in different sizes and designs, so it will not be difficult to choose models that are suitable specifically for your type of ceiling. We cover the edges of the plastic sheet with a frieze or corner.

The result of your efforts will be a beautifully designed suspended structure, masking all the shortcomings of the old ceiling.

Video selection: installation of a ceiling made of plastic panels

The construction market is now replete with a wide variety of finishing materials. The main advantages of modern innovations are ease of use and reliability. However, this is not always about practicality in terms of price. In this matter, finishing materials made from PVC undoubtedly lead in terms of profitability. PVC panels make it easy and simple to cover walls and ceilings in any room. At the same time, you don’t have to worry about the costly leveling of the base of the wall or worry about the exorbitant price installation work. Making the same suspended ceiling with your own hands using PVC panels will not be difficult, even without having many years of experience repair work.

What will you need?

So, now we will consider the option of installing a suspended ceiling using PVC panels as a finishing material. For this you will need minimum required tools, PVC panels and required mounting elements. More precisely, you will need the following tools:

  1. screwdriver or low-speed drill;
  2. tape measure, bubble level, water level;
  3. hammer;
  4. miter box, hacksaw, construction knife.

The material used is PVC panels. According to generally accepted standards, panels can be 25 and 50 cm wide. The main parameter when purchasing is the area of ​​all elements in the package. When calculating the required quantity, you should calculate the area of ​​the room in which the suspended ceiling will be installed, and increase the resulting quantity by 10-15%, taking into account the trimming of the material.

To secure the panels to the ceiling, use special fasteners and form a frame. The PVC panels themselves are quite fragile and soft, so for reliable fastening you will need a strong frame with frequent lathing.

Along the perimeter of the room, a U-shaped plastic profile is used, into which the edges of the panels will be inserted. As an alternative, you can choose a matching ceiling plinth for PVC panels, which is already equipped with a U-shaped groove. In high-quality design, such a plinth is a prefabricated structure in which the U-shaped groove is assembled in two parts to facilitate installation.

For the sheathing, you can use a wooden beam measuring 20x40 mm or a metal profile like for plasterboard. In the bathroom or kitchen, a wooden beam is not suitable due to high humidity. However, thanks to more easy installation wooden beams and attaching the panels themselves to it, it can be used in the bedroom or living room. The second parameter for selection is the price of the material; in this matter, you only need to check the availability and price in your region. When using wood in any form in construction, it must be treated before installation. antiseptic impregnations and fire retardants. The latter is necessary to increase the fire-resistant properties of wood.

PVC panels of various standards

In addition, there are plastic or aluminum profiles especially for PVC panels. If the cladding is carried out along the ceiling with small differences of up to 4-5 mm and with minimal lowering of the suspended ceiling, installation of PVC panels on the ceiling may be completely simple. The profiles are made with a special groove in the center for fastening to the base and for fastening the clips that will hold the sheathing panels.

For hardware, you will definitely need plastic dowels and nails-screws for them (another alternative would be anchors with a wedge for driving). They will attach frame elements and profiles along the perimeter to the walls and ceiling. The frame itself is assembled using screws with a drill tip for the metal profile and wood screws for the timber. PVC panels can be fastened either with screws with a press washer or with special metal clips. The approximate quantity of all hardware can be calculated after choosing the method of fixing the ceiling and after reading the installation instructions.

Preparation stage

Even taking into account that the ceiling will disappear from view, it should be cleaned of all elements that may subsequently fall off or spill onto the mounted suspended ceiling: damaged plaster or putty between the slabs, whitewash, old finishing material and so on. The entire surface of the ceiling is primed.

Only after this can you begin marking for the installation of the perimeter and frame. To do this, you should draw a line on the walls throughout the room, which will indicate a single level of the future ceiling. The ceiling should be lowered taking into account what lighting will be used, availability hidden wiring or other communications, as well as unevenness of the ceiling itself. For wiring, you should take into account the mandatory presence of a gap between the upper edge of the frame and the ceiling of at least 1.5-2 cm. The lowest place on the ceiling should be selected as a reference point from which to measure the descent.

Once the first mark is placed, you can transfer it to all four walls along the edges using water or laser level. To mark a line around the entire perimeter, you can use twine, generously colored with bright chalk. By pressing the edges of the string against the wall along the marks, you can pull it back slightly and release it. As a result, the chalk will remain on the wall.

When the perimeter is outlined, you can begin marking the location of the supporting elements of the frame. Profiles or beams should be placed perpendicular to the future direction of the PVC panels and at a distance of 40 to 60 cm. At a greater distance, suspended ceilings made from panels may sag slightly during operation.

Advice: No matter how much you would like this, there are still cases when both the floor and the ceiling of the room are multi-storey buildings mass developments are not up to standard, and correcting this is extremely expensive. In this case, it is better to deviate somewhat from reference to a strict level and draw a perimeter line with some slope so that the difference in the planes of the ceiling and floor is not visually striking.

Frame installation

Option 1: plastic sheathing

A plastic U-shaped profile or a plinth with it is attached around the perimeter of the entire room so that it bottom line passed along the previously drawn line. To join profiles in corners, use a miter box and a hacksaw. This is the only way to get a beautiful cut and minimal gap. The profile should be fastened every 25-30 cm. Next, to facilitate the process of installing the frame, you can stretch a thread or fishing line across the ceiling so that it forms a plane along with the upper edge of the profile.

Option 2: wooden frame

The wooden beams are attached to the ceiling using dowels and impact screws, every 60 cm. In order to bring them to the same level along the bottom edge, you can use wooden pads between them and the ceiling.

Option 3: metal profile

The metal profile, as in the case of plasterboard, is attached using U-shaped elements located every 60-80 cm. It is most convenient to attach the so-called “pawns” to the ceiling with anchors with a driven wedge, and to the profiles using screws with a drill tip.

There is no need to install jumpers between the supporting frames, but they will be needed in places where something heavy is supposed to be fixed, for example, a chandelier.

At the end of the installation of the frame, laying is carried out power cables for lighting. When using PVC panels, the wires must be laid in corrugation to ensure fire safety. In places where spotlights will be installed, it is enough to leave loops 10-15 cm long.

Installation of PVC panels

Now that the frame is ready and brought to a single level, you can begin installing suspended ceilings. This is the least troublesome and at the same time responsible process. The first strip of material is inserted into the U-shaped profile. Some craftsmen cut off the latch along the edge of the first strip. Once the strip is in place, it is secured with screws or clips to the frame support profiles, without missing a single one. You can cut a strip of the required size using a hacksaw or a simple knife. The material is quite easy to cut.

Important: PVC panels should be cut to a length slightly shorter than the distance between the walls. There must be a gap between the strip and the walls, approximately 4-5 mm at each end.

The next strip is applied to the lock at a slight angle and inserted into it along its entire length. After this, press the second side to the frame and also secure it with screws. In order to bring the strips together tightly, you can use a block or a piece of the same PVC panel, which is inserted into the groove and carefully driven in with a hammer until it stops.

The main thing is not to bend the strips of material under any circumstances and not to apply too much force during installation. PVC panels are quite fragile and even careless hand pressure can leave a dent that cannot be removed. Installation is best done with a partner or using simple supports with crossbars.

The main difficulty may arise when installing the last strip. In one embodiment, you can turn the strip over with a lock in the other direction and cut it to length from the side of the groove on the required width. Next, placing it tightly against the previous panel, the last element of the ceiling is fastened with screws. When using dismountable skirting boards, it is easier and more reliable to simply cut the strip to width and click the lock with the previous strip, as in all other cases.

If you plan to install spotlights in the ceiling, it is naturally more advisable to think about it in advance and install spots “on the ground”. More information about installing lighting in a plastic or any other ceiling -.