Preparations for treating trees in autumn. Autumn treatment of the garden from diseases and pests: timing, preparations, rules

Preface

Winter and autumn garden treatment – important work for every gardener, since processing in in this case pursues two important goals. The first is to rid the garden of pests and the second is to prepare the area for spring.

Required tools and materials

Autumn processing of the garden - preparing the area for hibernation

Once you have harvested your crop, you can start processing your garden plot. In this case, you need to stock up on chemicals for pest control, enough water, lime, and you will also need gardening tools.

Stages of work:

• During fruiting, it is strictly forbidden to use a variety of chemicals to get rid of diseases and pests. Therefore, during this period, trees and shrubs collect all kinds of diseases. That is why, before the leaves begin to fall, you need to completely treat the garden with a urea solution. If during harvesting rot is detected on the fruits, treatment is carried out (100 g of product per 10 liters of water).
• The next step is to clean the tree trunk of old bark and moss using a wire brush. After collecting all the peeled bark, be sure to take it outside the garden and burn it. In addition, all diseased fruits should be destroyed. Don’t forget that tree pruning should also be done in the fall - remove all disease-damaged shoots. To protect trees from rodents that raid the garden in winter, tie the tree trunks metal mesh and cover the reconciliation with spruce branches.
• In the fall, it is also necessary to dig up the soil on the site. But here you need to act carefully so as not to damage root system plants. Next we add the necessary organic and mineral fertilizers.
  
• If we notice even small cracks on tree trunks, be sure to lubricate them with garden varnish.

Treating the garden in winter - what do we do during the cold season?

Many gardeners relax towards winter, thinking that at this time they can relax. However, winter is not a reason to quit, because during this period it is necessary to spend enough a large number of work on the site so that your garden is prepared for the new season. For convenience, we will divide into stages the work that needs to be done:

• Gardening in December. Many gardeners are preparing cuttings at this time. Already matured branches from the crown are best suited for this. In this case, the cuttings are first stored in the refrigerator, and after snow falls - in the snow, wrapped in ordinary cling film. Before the snow cover appears, it is necessary to rake all the fallen leaves and place them in the compost pit.
  
• January work is aimed at thinking through the location of flower beds, creating rock gardens, if planned, and other purely decorative works in the garden. Check how your supplies are stored in the basement and start preparing vegetable and fruit seeds for planting in the spring. If you want some plants to please you already in May, plant them in January, and in the spring transplant them into open ground.
• Garden treatment in February is considered the most serious, because during this period you will need to prepare your garden for spring, the main thing is to wait until the severe frosts go away. It is necessary to prune trees to remove frozen shoots; in addition, this will improve the penetration of air and sun to the trees. In the same month you can start choosing annuals and perennials for landing. Don't forget to check the expiration date of fertilizers and mineral supplements for plants, in order to purchase new drugs if necessary. The garden is also sprayed in winter using a solution of copper or iron sulfate (70–100 grams per 10-liter bucket of water).
  

It is important to know - the most common pests

In order for both winter and autumn garden treatment to be successful, you need to know what diseases and pests you may encounter during the work.

First of all, these are mites, from which young shoots and leaves suffer - they begin to lose juice, stretch out and dry out. The most popular and suitable means Consider the drug Actofit.

Experts recommend carrying out protective spraying in the fall. This day should be rain-free, dry and frost-free. While trees bloom, bear fruit and ripen, they do not need protection from various small pests. You can learn about how and what to spray the garden in the fall from this article.

Preparing plants for processing

On winter time insects are looking for a warm place to sit out the cold season. Such places are fallen leaves, bark and soil. As a result, spraying of fruit trees should be carried out precisely in the autumn.

This action will help rid the trees of scab, spots, putrefactive diseases and other misfortunes. Due to the fact that bacteria multiply much faster under the bark of plants that are not treated, the vegetative process slows down.

After winter, plants slowly “wake up” and processing has great importance in the fall. Before spraying trees in the fall, they need to be prepared.

Preparation and processing are carried out in several stages and depend on the age of the seedlings:

1. If the plants are more than six years old, then you first need to remove the old bark and lichen using metal brush. This is done so that pathogens various diseases had no way to hide.
2. Once everything has been removed from the trees, spraying is carried out. The very last spraying should be done after all the leaves have fallen. You can also do this after the first frost. First you need to remove all the leaves, branches and weeds that have fallen.

How to treat garden trees

How to spray fruit trees in the fall? Fruit garden plants solutions made from urea, iron or copper sulfate. Each solution is aimed at a specific type of threat.

And therefore, spraying plants cannot be carried out with only one preparation. The product is selected depending on the desired result. Experts recommend doing this procedure at the end of October.

inkstone

This preparation is used to treat and feed fruit trees such as apple trees, plums, cherries and peaches. After processing the plant get a lot of useful microelements and iron. Also, after the procedure, oxidative processes improve.

If there is not enough of it, then the quantity and quality of the harvest decreases. It is not difficult to prepare a solution of iron sulfate. You need to mix one kg of dry powder with 15 liters of water.

Copper sulfate

If you don’t know what trees are sprayed with in the fall, use copper sulfate. This drug, which contains a fungicide, prevents putrefactive diseases, powdery mildew, scab and spotting from appearing.

This drug protects plums from moniliosis, coccomycosis, clusterosporosis and curliness. Provides for pears and apple trees defensive reaction from monioiasis, scab and phyllostictosis.

If the trees in the garden are not older than six years, then use up to two liters of copper sulfate solution per seedling. If the plant is older, then use up to ten liters.

It is best to spray fruit trees in the garden in the morning or evening. The temperature should be from +5 to +30 degrees, and it is also not advisable that there be wind.

Treating the garden with urea

It is recommended to spray plants in the garden with urea as the first or last step in preparing for winter. The first spraying should be done with a high concentration of the product. This action kills all pest larvae.

Seedlings in the garden are treated in the fall after half of the leaves have fallen off. To do this, make a solution - 10 liters of water and 500 g of urea. When all the leaves have fallen on the trees, the solution is made more concentrated by 7%.

Needs processing trunks, branches and soil. This is an excellent tree protection and fertilizer. Just be careful not to overdo it with preparing the solution; if it is too concentrated, the leaves will get burned and fall off earlier than necessary.

As a result, the supply will decrease useful substances and the frost resistance of fruit trees will decrease.

Nuances of autumn garden processing

Plants in the garden are sprayed using a manual or mechanized apparatus. This device evenly sprays the drug and protects a person from contact with it. Regardless of the operating principle of the device, they all have spray pump.

Mechanical models differ from manual ones in ease of use and difference in cost. Mechanical ones are much more convenient, but more expensive. Tree processing manual device requires periodic pumping.

When trees have wounds and cracks, in addition to lime, you also need to use the following products:

• cow dung;
• finely chopped straw.

There is another way to protect trees - garden var . You can make it yourself or buy it in a store. To prepare you need 100 g of rosin and 200 g of beeswax.

These products need to be melted separately, then mixed together and add 100 g of unsalted fat to the mixture. Before sealing the cracks, the garden pitch needs to be heated.

IN southern regions In the fall, trees need to be pruned, and in the northern regions, such an action will lead to the freezing of the plant.

Someone at the end summer season and with the onset of cold days stops all work on summer cottage. But if you still want to go to the dacha, in October and November you can do something useful there - prepare trees, shrubs and perennial flowers for winter, spray against pests and make good use of fallen leaves.

In the fall, it is usually recommended to dig up tree trunk circles under trees and bushes to destroy pests overwintering in the soil. I don’t do this because I’m convinced that everything is superfluous. On the contrary, I fill up the tree trunk circles with weeds and unrotted compost, especially around the perimeter of the crown, where the zone of sucking roots is located. Pests find themselves deeply buried under this layer. It is important to do this after the end of sap flow, otherwise a large amount of organic matter may cause unwanted branch growth at such a late time.

I also do not remove all fallen leaves, but pile them into circles around the trunk. Why is it customary to rake and even burn leaves? Because pathogens and some pests overwinter on fallen leaves. But you and I have a way to rid the foliage of them - more about it below.

In spring, you should also not remove leaves from under the plantings. In just a couple of weeks, not a trace will remain of her unkempt appearance. She will be taken away in her own ways earthworms, eat and produce humus. Rotting foliage restores soil fertility. In the forest, no one removes it, and humus in the soil accumulates and does not decrease.

At the end of October - beginning of November, you can apply rotted manure and compost not only under bushes and trees, but also under peonies and other perennial flowers, but also along the perimeter of the crown, and not in the center of the bush.

An additional third of a bucket of ash should be added under the cherries and plums. Even half a bucket won't hurt. It is even better to use dolomite or chalk instead of ash, but its rate must be reduced by 3 times.

If at the end of summer you have not added the phosphorus and potassium necessary for root growth, then, as they say, “the train has left.” Now there is no point in applying these fertilizers. The only thing else that can be done is to add AVA fertilizer to the soil, because it is not soluble in water and, accordingly, is not washed out of the soil by either autumn or spring waters.

In addition, as soon as the soil temperature drops to 8 degrees Celsius, this fertilizer generally stops dissolving in anything, and therefore will be perfectly preserved until the next season.

Spraying against pests in autumn

I destroy pathogens and pests by late (late October - early November) spraying of trees, bushes and the soil under them with a solution of any highly concentrated mineral fertilizer. The easiest way to do this is to use urea (carbomide), taking 500–700 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water - this fertilizer is easily diluted in cold water. If you don't have mineral fertilizers, use table salt, but salt will need 1 kg per 10 liters of water.

You need to start from the very ends of the branches, since this is where the aphids laid their eggs. Then spray all the branches and their forks, since many pests overwinter in the forks and cracks of the bark. Spray trunks and stems thoroughly.

You should not only spray aboveground part, but also the soil under plantings. Pests also gathered to overwinter in the fallen leaves, under them and in the top layer of soil. If you spray a solution of such a high concentration, you will destroy them.

Why should trees be sprayed in late autumn? Because by this time the plants should retire, and the chitinous covers of wintering pests are not yet strong enough. The mineral fertilizer will penetrate inside the pest’s body, salt metabolism will be disrupted, and the pest will die, but you will not harm the plant during dormancy. Of course, such spraying cannot be done in the summer, it will cause a chemical burn.

Repeated spraying with a concentrated solution of mineral fertilizer should be done in early spring, before the start of sap flow. Increased doses of mineral fertilizers are detrimental not only to pests, but also to spores of pathogens of fungal diseases. When spraying (not watering), an increased dose of mineral elements does not accumulate in the soil.

It often happens that leaves do not fall from trees for a long time. This is bad, because the very first snow can break the branches - the snow usually falls wet, and therefore heavy. To prevent this from happening, at the end of October it is necessary to force the leaves to transfer the entire accumulated reserve to the tree. In order to cause yellowing of the leaves and then their falling, you need to spray the trees with urea on the leaves (200–250 g - that's about 10 tablespoons - per 10 liters of water).

After the end of sap flow, you can carry out activities to clean the trunks and skeletal branches of trees from lichens. To do this, you need to spray them with a 7-10% solution of iron sulfate (about 3 level tablespoons per 1 liter of water). Literally in 3-4 days the lichens will fall off on their own. Such spraying should never be done during the growing season.

At the end of October - beginning of November, water all vacated beds, including those in greenhouses, with a solution of Fitosporin. The predator bacterium living in it will still for a long time destroy pathogens of fungal and bacterial diseases, because it dies only at 20 degrees below zero. It is perfectly preserved under snow cover and continues to live and work in the soil.

Should be cut at the end of October perennial asters and chrysanthemums, plant peonies, oriental hybrids(lilies), chrysanthemums, irises.

The aboveground part of other perennial flowers should be cut off and composted only if it is diseased. The soil will have to be sprayed with any preparation containing copper (3% solution - 1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water).

But if the foliage is healthy, then leave the perennial flowers to stand until frost. The frost will break the stems, and they will cover the rhizomes themselves, and in addition, they will retain the fallen snow, and therefore you will not additionally have to cover most of the plants for the winter. But shelters over roses and clematis still need to be installed.

In November, it’s time to protect trees from frost damage and spring sunburn. You can whitewash the trees water-based paint especially for whitewashing trees. But I prefer strapping using propylene fiber from sugar bags. If there is a film liner inside, then it should be removed and the bags should be ripped open. By the way, young trees are not whitewashed, but rather tied. The tying should be done right down to the ground and even covered with soil.

It is not recommended to tie the trunks with roofing felt or other black material, since in sunny weather during the day the trunks quickly heat up, and at night they cool down - such a sharp change in temperature has a bad effect on the condition of the bark.

How to get rid of mice in a private house

In autumn, mice often look into rooms. They usually run along walls, so place poison bait in several places near the baseboards. Very good and enough effective means"Storm", "Clairat", "Geldan".

These mice repellents are not poison in the literal sense of the word. They cause a fatal lung disease, not immediately after mice and rats eat the bait, but after a week, so smart rats cannot associate this food with the disease and do not warn their relatives about the danger.

They like the food, and they communicate this to other animals who also come to eat, so with one bait you practically destroy the entire family. Rodents do not die indoors, because when they have lung disease, they experience a lack of air and go outside. Cats and dogs, as a rule, do not eat such mice, so there is no danger to other animals. But they can eat the food - be careful.

If you are afraid to use such food, then spray the baseboards with ammonia-anise drops or scatter black root seeds along the walls. Mice do not like the smell of anise, and the seeds, clinging to the skin, cause rodents nervous stress- mice will leave your house.

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Discussion

Thank you. Laconically and on time.

Comment on the article "How to prepare trees and bushes for winter: 9 things to do at the dacha in the fall"

Lilacs are still beautiful in autumn - their leaves look interesting when they turn yellow. You can plant Christmas trees! winter and summer in the same color. Trees, bushes, perennials? Preferably something non-demanding complex care, because We don’t go to the dacha... Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs Biological...

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We are now planting all the shrubs in flower beds or mixed borders. This is how almonds, derain, and barberries coexist in a flower garden. and perennials (also repeating) are planted between them. and each blooms in its own time - creating a composition. The tone is now set by tulips and daffodils + almonds. They will be replaced by phloxes, then there will be peonies.
in general, think about it - maybe you could also place lilacs in such a composition? the lilac will fade - something else will bloom - beauty.

Sakura do you mean bush or almond?
if it is a shrub, then plant it with strict restrictions on the roots (plant the iron sheet deeply), otherwise the shoots will not give life.

I love lilac. There are so many varieties at VDNH, you want ALL!!!
What's the use, let's say, of jasmine? Only the smell. But he's MAGICAL :)

Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. Who is this?! How can there be so many other trees around, why purposefully devour an entire bed of apple trees?

Discussion

New shoots began to grow somewhere below. But naturally this is wild, i.e. the thing is completely unnecessary. I'll probably have to pull it all out.

Does that hypothetical animal, elk, roe deer or hare, that eat young apple trees have brains? No brains, probably.
I took a closer look and it devoured very small seedlings (from last year) that I myself had grown from seeds.
Quite a labor-intensive process. Tiny apple trees, 10 cm maximum, were eaten up to half. There were sticks left about 5 cm. Like matches.

Spraying the garden in the spring and 15 more tasks at the dacha in May. Winter work in the garden are mandatory, despite the fact that fruit trees and shrubs are in the garden. Work in the garden and vegetable garden in the spring. With the arrival of spring, gardeners and vegetable gardeners at their country houses and other...

Discussion

I'm just like Mashulya)
I poured boiling water over the currants, sprinkled all the fruit and ornamental shrubs and trees Bordeaux mixture and preventative, sprinkled everywhere spring fertilizer, loosened the tree trunk circles, mulched with rotted manure. Shed honeysuckle, currants and conifers (the latter - warm water), I spilled potassium permanganate on the peonies and beds, added humus to the beds, dug up...
what else?.. I watered all the clematis with dolomite milk with the addition of phytosporin, and watered the roses with previkur (they didn’t come out of winter well).
well...that's all for now)
yes.. I also managed to prune the apple and plum trees at the beginning of last week.

currants and gooseberries were poured with boiling water while the snow lay. We drank everything with prophylactic (from flying) and Bordeaux mixture (from diseases).
trees were trimmed
We watered the beds in the greenhouse with potassium permanganate, sowed radishes (already sprouted) and greens for the first salads
fully opened the roses sunny side and opened the roses where there is less sun, slightly opened the ends of the shelter on the grapes. I removed the cover from the actinidia, but left it covered. clematis and lavender are closed for now.
I collected sawdust from the strawberries, but haven’t trimmed them yet
Crocuses are in full bloom, tulips and peonies have hatched
it's time to feed all the conifers with any product for green needles
I regretted that I didn’t go over the lawn with a scarifier, but we went for one day

Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and before the start of sap flow. The future development of the crown of your tree and the future depend on this. Snow also needs to be compacted around the tree throughout the winter and spring so that it...

Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. I have a garden about 15 years old, large apple trees, pears, cherries, etc., do I need to spray something now or not???

Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. Please tell us how to prepare two-year-old seedlings planted this year for winter? Apple tree and cherries.

Discussion

Water well, 5-10 buckets per plant (this should have been done before, but now it’s possible).
Feed along with the entire garden (in the fall, feed with superphosphate or special “autumn” fertilizers).
Hill up with peat or compost (1-2-3 buckets per plant). In the spring, don’t forget to uncrowd it in time, otherwise the bark got stuck under the compost once.
Wrap high with old stockings, burlap, and on top with spruce branches or cut shoots of any prickly plant, some are also wrapped in barbed wire (to ward off mice and hares).
Most likely you won’t have to whitewash anything - most likely, most of the trunk will be under the winding. But you can also whitewash it, it’s never harmful :) Whitewash it as late as possible so that it doesn’t get washed away by the rains.
Even in the middle of winter, 1-2 times (or better after each heavy snowfall), it would be a good idea to come to the dacha and trample the trees - compact the snow around them approximately within the radius of the crown. This, firstly, protects them from mice, and secondly, it slows down snowmelt in the spring - that is, the trees will wake up later, begin to grow and bloom later, and there is less risk that they will fall under spring frosts. This is especially true for all cherries and apricots :)

Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and You can replant a bush in both spring and autumn, but this is quite troublesome. I agree with Lind_a that it’s better to spray one spray of blackcurrant and raspberry trees and bushes.

Discussion

About currants, I agree, layerings and cuttings are better. The bush can be removed when it becomes clear that the cuttings have taken root. By the way, my mother propagates everything from cuttings (well, almost everything :)). Cut branches 15-20 cm long, stick them at an angle into the prepared bed and cover plastic bottles, and cuts off the bottom of the bottles. The lid can be opened and closed (depending on the weather). It stays like this until the branches begin to grow. When it’s too much, it leaves it without lids. If you cut cuttings in the fall, leave them for the winter. It also propagates currants, roses, and honeysuckle.
And about raspberries, I can recommend an article from the magazine “Kalitka” #1 for 2012. I liked that everything I needed was there in one place and in order. The magazine is online, look for it.

We replanted. And not only currants, but also 8-year-old apple trees. You spill it generously the day before, dig it onto a bayonet and wrap the lump in burlap. The branches can be tied with rope. When planting, do not remove the burlap, it will rot on its own. In May or August-September.

Raspberries that bear fruit must be cut out annually and young shoots thinned out so that they do not thicken. This is done after fruiting. Feed in spring. When it’s hot, water it, it loves moisture (I mulch my plantation with sawdust, they retain moisture). In general, you need to take care, maybe your variety will turn out to be good when taken care of.

shelter for the winter. Arrangement of the site. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Cottage and dacha plots: purchasing Autumn at the dacha: how to make an organic garden bed. In the end there were three quite raised beds How to prepare a young lawn for winter? Autumn sowing should be calculated as follows...

Discussion

The development of the root system occurs up to +5 degrees. Everything should have settled down for you) there was enough time

12/05/2014 15:28:48, yellow shoes

I would just shade the conifers from the spring sun, they know how to burn. But this can be done in the spring. Everything you mentioned does not need shelter IMHO. The only thing that needed to be done was to water abundantly until frost. Well, in the spring, as soon as you open the water, immediately spill everything.

See other discussions: Blackcurrant: pest control in spring, summer and autumn. Sprayer. Appliances for the garden. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits...

Discussion

The usual 5L Gardena, but I want to buy everything for 10L. It’s not particularly difficult to carry, I put it on the ground and don’t hold it in my hands all the time. I want a larger volume - since the standard dosages of chemicals are for 10 liters of water, and I have to fool around with mental calculations of proportions. Yes, and spraying only roses now takes 3 volumes, and if there are also bushes and trees - all 5.

spraying is not useful at all, so let your husband do it :))

Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, tree planting and whitewashing of trees in autumn and spring. Winter work in the garden is mandatory, despite the fact that fruit trees and shrubs are in a state of absolute dormancy.

Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. Hi all. Need help for a novice gardener. Please advise what to wrap, cover, etc. trees from mice for the winter?

Discussion

Thanks to all! Today I painted and wrapped all the apple trees :) And cherries just in case.

There is no need to do anything with the bushes. I usually cover everything - both bushes and trees - with compost, 2-3-4 buckets per bush, both against frost and for fertilizer, but this is not necessary, you just need to use compost anyway.
It is best to protect young trees with nylon tights; I have been using them for many years - neither mice nor hares bite them.
And whitewash, of course. Ideally, a trunk and large branches, almost to the height of growth.

Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. Didn't find what you were looking for? Look at other discussions Section: Our garden (dacha, is it possible to mow the grass late in the fall).

Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and People, I want to help. I always cut off branches from trees in the fall. Somehow it’s traditional Fruit trees and shrubs: how many varieties of apple trees and currant bushes are needed on the plot.

Discussion

As far as I know, you can ALWAYS prune, except during the period of active sap flow.
Personally, I prune in February when there is more snow. In high snow you can reach the upper branches.
PS. Why regularly prune non-fruit trees is also unclear to me.

There is a danger that the tree will freeze if there is frost and the wound does not have time to heal. Therefore, it is preferable to cut in the spring.

Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. Please advise where to start? Is it possible to mow the grass under them? This year, the mown grass was placed directly under the trees, where it still lies.

Discussion

Good afternoon This is me, yesterday's wife in thought! Well, let's take on your clearing?!
About trees, briefly. It is necessary to prune, the crown needs light and air, otherwise you will have to treat the tree. The old rule is: "Prune so that the hat flies through the crown." Trim at above-zero temperatures, with the last eye looking outwards. Cut out everything that is diseased, dry and growing inside the crown or extending under very acute angle. The remaining subtleties depend on the initial formation of the tree: a trunk, a bush, a trellis or something else. The more you prune a tree, the more it will grow. If the tree is a standard, then leave 1 branch as the main axis and cut out the competition. Trim the remaining branches to 20-50 cm, depending on the crown. After pruning, it should have a pyramidal shape, in which case all branches, including the lower ones, will receive enough sun. Take a photo - details will follow!
In the fall, it’s a good idea to cover the trunk with some kind of... Like a resin against Operophtera brumata, which crawl into the crown in the fall to lay eggs, but it’s too late to rush about, we’ll discuss it in the fall. Whiten the trunks also in the fall, to prevent cracking of the trunks in the cold under the intense spring sun.
Remove the grass, it attracts mice like a magnet. Grass on the compost heap. Plant nasturtium (enriches the soil with nitrogen) or marigolds (against nematodes), they are decorative and suppress the growth of weeds. Feed with compost. Do you have a compost heap? If you don’t want to mess around and the trees are old, then you can trunk circle"hammer" and just mow the grass around. My old trees grow so beautifully, around the young ones I, accordingly, perform the above-mentioned “dances with tambourines.”
So sharpen your pitchforks and scissors!

Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables. In my yard there are 2 dwarf roses in plastic flowerpots, actively blooming. What to do with them in autumn and winter? bring it into the house? garage? basement...

Discussion

If in the basement stable temperature, about 0, then I would put them there. Trim the shoots a little and put them directly in flowerpots in the basement. They don't need light in winter.
In addition, this method is good if you plan to leave them in flowerpots next year. You can pull it out early and start “driving it out” at home in the light to get early flowering.

Option 1: plant in open ground and cover well for the winter.
Option 2: wait until the leaves fall and at the first long frost, bring it to a place where the temperature in winter is not above zero. Light is then not necessary, since the roses have no leaves. Leave it in a pot outside - the soil in the pot will freeze; if you bring it in too early, the shoots will not have time to become woody for the winter, which is also bad. It will spend the winter in a warm place - it will begin to grow, stretch and acquire aphids. Well, take the pot back in the spring at zero temperatures, after cutting off the roses to the third bud so that they bush.

Discussion

Roundup. Spray on the leaves in dry weather (there should be at least 8 hours before rain). They turn yellow and wither. If anyone survives, spray again. They will turn yellow for ten days. Forever. You can cut down everything that is dry; if any shoots stick out unfinished, spray again. Immediately after spraying, do not touch the bush, do not break it - the drug will go down inside to the roots.
The drug does not spoil the earth, is not dangerous to animals, and you can plant in this place even tomorrow.

Thanks everyone for the answers! I'm not sure if I can use it, but I'll think about it further. I got a plot with a pond, and there were two more islands in the pond. All this was overgrown with birches, aspens and bushes still unknown to me. This summer the bushes have reached incredible sizes both in width and height. My entire pond with the islands and surrounding area turned into an impenetrable jungle measuring 3-4 acres. Moreover, most of the bushes grow directly from the water. For now I just trimmed all the bushes, leaving the height no more than a meter. But they obviously need to be thinned out, but there is neither the strength nor the money for this :(

Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries Please share your experience - who, how and when insulates roses for the winter. We usually cover it with spruce branches at the end of October-November.

Due to the fact that bacteria quickly multiply under the bark of untreated trees, the vegetative process slows down. Plants slowly “wake up” after winter. Therefore, treating fruit trees in the fall is very important. To do this, you need to prepare the plants. Processing trees that are older than six years begins with removing old bark and lichen with a metal brush. This is necessary so that pathogens of various diseases cannot hide. Trees must be treated immediately after removal. The last spraying in the fall occurs when all the foliage has fallen. You can carry out this procedure after the first frost. To begin with, all foliage, fallen branches and weeds are removed. Protection for fruit trees is provided by solutions of copper or iron sulfate, urea, etc. Each drug is aimed at a specific type of threat. Therefore, treatment of fruit trees in the fall cannot consist of spraying with only one product. The drug is selected depending on the desired results. It is recommended to carry out the procedure in question at the end of October.

inkstone

This drug is intended for spraying and feeding fruit trees - apple trees, cherries. After the procedure, the plants are saturated with iron and useful microelements. Treatment of fruit trees in the fall helps improve oxidative processes. The drug fights pests, destroys lichen, scab, moss, black cancer, cytosporosis. Iron plays a big role in the life of fruit trees. Its deficiency reduces the amount of harvest and leads to incomplete fruit development. It is very easy to prepare a solution of iron sulfate. It is necessary to dilute one kilogram of dry powder in a fifteen-liter bucket of water.

Copper sulfate

This product, which contains a fungicide, prevents the appearance of putrefactive diseases, scab, powdery mildew, spots. It is recommended to spray trees twice - in spring and autumn. Treating fruit trees in the fall with copper sulfate is especially recommended for pears, apples and plums. You can, of course, spray other plants in the garden. For plums, copper sulfate provides a protective reaction against moniliosis, clasterosporosis, coccomycosis, and curl. The product protects pears and apple trees from scab, moniliosis and phyllostictosis. For fruit trees (up to six years old), up to two liters of copper sulfate per seedling is sufficient. Consumption for older plants is up to ten liters. It is recommended to spray fruit trees in the morning or evening time. The weather should be calm and the temperature should be from +5 to +30 degrees. It is necessary to protect people and animals from contact with the drug, and also to prevent it from entering water supplies.

Treatment with urea (urea)

Processing devices

Processing fruit trees in the fall is simplified thanks to existing mechanical or manual principle actions. These devices protect the gardener from contact with the preparations and spray them evenly. Regardless of the operating principle, all devices are equipped with a spray pump. Differences mechanical devices from manual models lies in the ease of their use. And, of course, there is a difference in their cost. Mechanical devices are more convenient, but more expensive. And for spraying trees with hand-held device requires periodic pumping.

Additional processing

Treatment of fruit trees in the fall against pests and diseases should not be limited to spraying with copper, iron sulfate or urea. Plants also need to be watered abundantly and whitened. The layer of lime on the bark should be at least three millimeters.

If there are cracks and wounds on the tree, then you need to add a little to the lime cow dung and finely chopped straw. The resulting solution will protect the plant from cracking.

Another method of protection is garden varnish. You can buy it at the store or prepare it yourself. To do this, you need to take one hundred grams of rosin and two hundred grams of beeswax. You need to melt these substances (each separately), then mix them and add one hundred grams of unsalted fat. Before filling cracks, the varnish must be heated.

Autumn preparation in the southern regions involves pruning trees. In northern cities, this will doom the plant to freeze.

When and what to spray fruit trees in the fall before wintering

What and when about spray fruit trees in the garden in autumn? Quite often the reader asks this question.

In order for the wintering of trees to be successful, the gardener will need to protect his fruit trees. trees from pests and diseases.Spraying trees in the fall, you will provide them with healthy and blooming species throughout the next season.

Autumn spraying trees - important factor in garden care.Fruit processing trees carried out using spray guns, while observing all safety rules, since later spraying carried out with pesticides. In view of this, each gardener needs to have a set of clothes to carry out this procedure: gloves, a protective gown and, of course, a respirator.Spray preparationfruit trees in the fall you need to select based on existing diseases and pests, and whether this treatment is early or late. Since late autumn is usually rainy, it is necessary to wait for dry weather, under no circumstances spray plantings before the rain, otherwise the rain will wash away the substance and the garden will remain unprotected or will not bring sufficient effect. The weather should be dry and windless.

Spraying trees late autumn performed just before the onset of winter. Of course, if there are plantings in the garden that are diseased, the procedure is carried out outside the schedule.

With the onset of early autumn, the garden especially needs care and attention. To ensure that fruit trees are resistant to winter and cold, in late November spraying They are also fertilized with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.

For autumn spraying fruit trees It is good to use a urea solution, with the calculation: 500-700 grams of urea per 10 liters of water. Interestingly, when spraying, you need to treat both the tree itself and the area underneath it so that the entire infection is killed. The spray should be dusty and fine. This procedure will reduce the risk of garden disease next year.

However, many gardeners are in a hurry and make serious mistake cultivating your garden early autumn when the trees have not yet lost all their leaves. Spray using such a solution in the garden can only result in burns and untimely falling of leaves. In this case, no effect will be achieved. As a result, the gardener will end up weakened, with a lack of useful nutrients a garden that can barely survive the winter. It is much more prudent to use a solution of this concentration in late autumn - in November.

In mid-autumn, in October, the bases of the branches and trunks must be whitened with lime mortar, having first cleared them of dead bark. As for young plantings, they are covered with a chalk solution. Apple and pear trees are protected from rodent invasion by tying the trunks and bases of skeletal branches. You can tie fruit trees with matting or burlap using young cherry or walnut branches. Some people use stockings.

Medicines for spraying trees .

inkstone it is applied for spraying plants and the soil under them before the beginning of the growing season or in the fall after the leaves fall, in order to combat diseases of pome and stone fruits fruit crops and berry plants (diseases of the trunk and branches, moniliosis, scab and other spots), grapes (anthracnose, bacterial cancer, spotted necrosis, mildew).

Urea is an effective measure for the destruction of leaf roller caterpillars, aphids, honey beetles and apple blossom beetles. The effect of nitrogen spraying lasts about 2 weeks, so as time passes, it is recommended to repeat the spraying procedure.

Autumn processing a nitrogen solution should also involve some kind of fungicide and include spraying not only the trees themselves, but also the soil under them. Fallen leaves must be subject to mandatory treatment if they are not planned to be removed.

Urea Can spray your garden, both in spring and autumn. Only in the fall it is important not to rush. If we start doing this before trees lose all their foliage, we risk slowing their growth, making them more likely to freeze in the winter. Concentration - 700 grams of substance per 10 liters of water - optimal for both spring and autumn spraying. Spraying with urea will protect trees from aphids.

Spraying trees diesel fuel helps to achieve complete destruction larvae due to the fact that the solution sprayed over the surface of the bark forms a homogeneous oily film on the surface of the branches and post, which does not allow the larvae to breathe, as a result of which they as soon as possible after treatment, suffocation occurs.

Since this petroleum product is not a fungicide, it can be spray not only at the beginning of spring and late autumn, but throughout the entire flowering period fruit tree. Typically, it is diluted according to one of the following recipes:

To 10 parts of water add 1 part of iron sulfate, then 10 parts of 10% milk of lime and only then 20 parts of diesel fuel. The resulting mixture will have a 50% concentration and is recommended for use before bud formation and after leaf fall.

5 parts clay and 5 parts water are mixed with 20 parts fuel. The resulting solution has the same concentration as the previous one, but does not contain a fungicide and can be used during the period of fruit appearance.

Another option for obtaining a 50% solution for spraying- this is 9 parts water mixed with 1 part laundry soap and 10 parts of diesel fuel.