EntranceWe prune currants according to all the rules - this is the key to the harvest! How and when to prune currants. How to prune currants correctly in the fall so that there is a good harvest: a diagram for beginners
How to prune currants correctly in the fall, to be good harvest, will be discussed in this article. After all, currant branches must be pruned in autumn period. The harvest next season depends on this procedure for caring for the plant. If pruning rules are not followed, the result may be poor fruiting.
Purposes of bush pruning
Before you begin the operation, you should understand the purpose of this procedure. The pruning technique will vary depending on the tasks:
- Create correct form bush.
- Free the plant from diseased and broken branches.
- Create optimal conditions for normal development of branches.
- Rejuvenate an old plant.
How to prune currants in autumn so that it grows and develops correctly, we’ll talk further. The formation of the bush must begin in the first years after planting the seedlings. The quality development of the plant and its fruitfulness will depend on this.
At sanitary pruning remove all branches that are throughout summer season were damaged harmful insects And various diseases. As a result, a healthy bush will have increased productivity.
After the procedure anti-aging pruning an adult bush produces new shoots and its productivity increases.
With any pruning method, mistakes should not be made, otherwise this will lead to bush diseases, uneven development and poor harvest.
Which branches should be deleted?
Many young gardeners are interested in when is the best time to prune currants - spring or autumn. As practice has shown, the best time to prune a plant is autumn. However, this work must be done before the onset of frost and precipitation.
Usually, the procedure for pruning currants begins in the last ten days of October and the first ten days of November. At this time, the plant is not so prone to disease and calmly accepts various interventions. It is important to remember that the shoots that have grown from the ground are the zero row, on which shoots of the first, second level, etc. will subsequently begin to appear.
In the fall, the following branches are removed:
- thin and broken;
- not bearing fruit;
- sick and damaged by insects;
- dry;
- shoots that block the sun's rays.
How to prune currant bushes in autumn
Fall pruning is not that difficult, but it should be done every year. Treatment of the bush should begin after the end of the summer heat. When the air temperature drops, the plant slows down its growth.
At this time, the leaves have already dried out or fallen off, but there is no frost yet. For pruning, it is best to choose a warm, sunny day so that it is pleasant to work. Is it possible to prune currants? V rainy weather? Of course not. Let's consider diagram annual pruning of blackcurrant bushes.
First year
Better to plant biennial plant. You can also plant on permanent place rooted cuttings. In this case, it needs to be cut off, leaving only 10-15 cm.
Second year
With the onset of warm spring days, several branches appear from the ground - zero order. During the autumn pruning period, you need to select 4-5 strong branches from which a bush will be created, skeletal branches; there is no need to trim them. The remaining shoots are cut to the ground.
Branches formed last year are left unpruned. The only exceptions are those shoots that are damaged by diseases or pests.
Important! Don’t worry if in the first year there are only 2-3 branches among the developed branches. This is normal for a currant bush and will not harm further development.
Third year
By autumn, the blackcurrant bush already has branches formed over the past two years, as well as numerous shoots. It is necessary to select the strongest shoots that have appeared this year.
Do I need to trim currants? this year? It is enough to leave 4-5 shoots of zero order for further creation of a bush. These branches must have the correct direction of growth - outward, so that they do not touch each other and do not interfere with each other's development. All remaining ones should be cut off at the root.
In this case, all branches will be able to receive enough light and air. The pruning procedure is not complicated and even a young gardener can do it. It is necessary to ensure that the cut is closer to the main branch, being careful not to damage it or leave a stump.
The tops of fresh growth are not shortened this year. Only those that have matured to full strength need to be trimmed, as well as the wounded and sick. Pruning should be done with clean tools to avoid infection of the plant.
Important! When pruning branches, cuts are made at a distance of 0.5-1 cm above the bud.
During the growth period, be sure to provide the bush with proper care so that the plant develops properly. To do this, treat throughout the season using chemicals or folk ways. Timely prevention will eliminate the risk of currant infection with certain diseases and pest attacks.
Fourth year
This year, caring for currant bushes is no different from last year. But now there will be more work, since the bush is already mature. If there are several bushes growing in the garden, then it will be more difficult to cope, but in three years you can get used to all the procedures.
Fifth year
This year, the fruiting of the bush begins to decline. Therefore, besides sanitary pruning and removing excess growth, several more plant care operations will be added. It will be necessary to remove some branches with poor productivity. This work can be done using pruning shears or loppers. In addition to unnecessary shoots of the second and third order, all broken, weak, diseased, and intersecting branches are removed.
Now, every year it will be necessary to delete old branches of five summer age, leaving the strongest shoots of zero order. This type of care is necessary for the plant throughout its life. Adults currant bushes, formed according to these rules, have from 15 to 20 branches of different ages.
Anti-aging pruning for 5-6 years is necessary in order to increase currant yields. At the same time, old branches are cut off at the root to stimulate the growth of young shoots. The cuts are made with a sharp device 0.5-1 cm above the kidney. A cut made on the kidney will destroy the shoot.
It is worth noting that pruning currants in the fall both experienced and novice gardeners.
Scheme for beginners
- During the first 5 years, currant branches are not pruned.
- On the 5th autumn, you need to cut off almost half of the branches of the bush: dry, affected by diseases and pests, broken, shading the crown. After the procedure, it is necessary to carry out good feeding for the bush so that it gains strength for further development.
- After a year, about 20 new shoots are left, and all other shoots are removed.
- Next year you can remove the second half of the old branches, leaving 10 young shoots. Branches 5 years old and older are cut off.
- After pruning, garden varnish should be applied to the cut areas.
How to prune red currants in autumn
Despite the fact that red and black currants belong to the same crop, the approach to growing and caring for plants is slightly different from each other.
- Before planting in the ground red currants cut similarly to black.
- In autumn, shoots of the zero row are cut off, except for the 3-4 strongest shoots. If the plant does not branch well, the root shoots are only cut off to 1/3 of the length.
- It is necessary to ensure that the bush consists of branches of different ages. Each branch bears fruit for 8–10 years. Red currants should have 15-20 shoots.
- Less effort is spent on pruning this crop. The bush is not processed so carefully, since it has less moderate growth. Therefore, excessive pruning is not necessary here. Otherwise, the berries may not appear on the bush for some time or may not bear fruit well.
Watch the video! Pruning red currants in autumn
How to increase bush productivity
To increase the yield of currants, not only pruning the bush is required. There are other factors on which the quality development of a plant depends:
- ability to create young shoots;
- timely awakening of the kidneys.
In order for the plant to be able to produce new shoots, the top of each branch should be cut off. Typically, pruning is done by half or a third of the branch. The cut is made with a sharp object 2–3 mm above the kidney. At the same time, it is important to choose the bud that is directed towards the outside of the bush.
Care after pruning
Immediately after pruning, the currant bush requires additional nutrition in order to gain strength. To do this, the soil around the bush is carefully loosened, and then fertilizers (mineral or organic) are applied.
It is recommended to apply fertilizer in the form of:
- fresh manure;
- potassium;
- superphosphate.
Before the onset of frost, the ground around the currant bush is well covered with sawdust, and also better with peat up to 10 cm thick. To do this, you need to stock up on 10 kg of mulch.
In order to prevent various diseases, the plant is treated with karbofos, but it can also be treated with a solution of colloidal sulfur. The procedure must be done under normal weather conditions, without wind or rain.
Proper pruning currants in the fall is part of the task that leads to the high-quality development of the bush, as well as to a high harvest of berries. At good care The plant will delight you with delicious fruits for many years.
Watch the video! Proper pruning of currants
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Wonderful currant berry, tasty, prolific, rich in elements, useful and necessary for human health, is deservedly loved by gardeners. The best reward for summer residents is to collect a rich harvest of these wonderful berries. Currant bushes are long-bearing plants that can produce abundant harvests for up to twenty years.
It's not enough to choose the best varieties currants and, without making any effort, expect that from year to year they will actively bear fruit. Like any plants, currant bushes love care and attention. Simple agrotechnical measures, the main one of which is autumn pruning of currants, will significantly improve the well-being of the bush and it will repay with a rich harvest of delicious berries.
Depending on the age of the bush, the time of implementation and the assigned goals, there are several methods of pruning. At different periods of life, a currant bush requires compliance with certain rules for caring for it. To thin out the thickened crown and remove branches affected by diseases, sanitary pruning is carried out. It improves the access of necessary sunlight to young shoots and berries. Thickened crowns are easily attacked by pests, lichen and fungi. Removing diseased branches prevents the disease from developing and affecting large areas. In summer, the bush grows and develops intensively, throwing out a large number of shoots. They can be either useful and fruitful in the future, or unnecessary, taking away the vitality of the plant. To make it easier for currants to overwinter and spend less nutrients in the spring on restoration, it is necessary to prune black currants in the fall after harvesting. To properly prune currant bushes, you should know the simple structure of the plant and the characteristics of its development and fruiting. Pruning currants in the fall for novice gardeners will not cause any particular difficulties, because even a beginner can do it if they understand the structure and know the basic rules. To carry out high-quality pruning, you need simple garden tools that every gardener probably has: pruning shears, a file and a means for healing cut areas. Tools must be sharp so that the cut edges are uniform. Frayed edges can become a habitat for pests. Old branches that have lived for several years may require the use of a file. To prevent the stumps remaining after pruning from rotting and becoming a site for the development of diseases, the obsolete branches must be removed at ground level. Currants need annual pruning, starting from the first year of planting the seedling. A young plant is formed by removing weak and diseased shoots. If such work has not been carried out, then the bush, throwing out a large number of sprouts, will grow and become more decorative than fruit-bearing. But this is not yet a reason to throw it away; you can carry out rejuvenating measures and it will still delight you with its harvest. It will not be possible to restore a healthy appearance to the bush with one-stage pruning; this will take two to three years, although the first noticeable changes will be visible the next year. 
By creating a certain shape of the crown and improving its structure, molding pruning is carried out. Over the course of several years, a plant with branches of different ages is formed. The optimal shape of a proportionally developing currant bush is a bowl with an open center.
Currant branches bear fruit for about five years, after which they only take strength and nutrition from young promising shoots. Getting rid of old non-fruiting branches is carried out thanks to rejuvenating pruning. Such work stimulates the formation of young shoots and significantly rejuvenates the entire plant.
Pinching the apical part of an actively growing shoot has a beneficial effect on the formation of lateral shoots.
Their nutrition is enhanced and the laying of a larger number of flower buds, leading to an increase in fruiting. During the summer period of berry ripening, the upper shoots are pinched, freeing access to sunlight. The video shows how to prune currants correctly: Timing for pruning bushes
Every year, before the onset of persistent cold weather, after the leaves have fallen and the movement of sap has ceased, time must be allocated for pruning the bushes.
You can postpone pruning until spring, just keep in mind that currants wake up quite early. Before the juices move, usually the end of February, you need to have time to carry out all the manipulations so as not to harm the plant. If you prune a plant that has already woken up, it is quite difficult to stop the movement of juices, so the bush bleeds and begins to hurt. In the spring, it is not always possible to choose the time for such work, so the optimal time for pruning currant bushes is November, when the garden is already resting, but has not yet fallen into winter hibernation.
In the spring, it is advisable to inspect the bushes and carry out the final stage, removing branches or ends of shoots that could not survive the winter safely.The structure of a currant bush
Currant is a fairly spreading bush, which within a few years, without proper care, will turn into a shapeless mass of shoots. Old branches lose the ability to bear fruit, and some, due to thickening and lack of sunlight, develop crooked and weak. Such a currant bush will not be able to produce a bountiful harvest. And no amount of fertilizer can change this. Only rejuvenation and improvement of the currant bush with autumn pruning will help restore fertility.
The diagram shows currant shoots of different ages:
The bush consists of:
1 – perennial skeletal branches;
2 – basal branches of the annual;
3 – bud branches of the annual.
The remaining branches are overgrowing, formed annually on skeletal branches.
A healthy bush should consist of strong branches, even and developed, not affected by diseases and pests, and no more than six years old. In the summer, fruit buds are laid in the axils of the leaves, which will produce a flower cluster only next spring, followed by the development of fruits.Preparing tools
The cut site is easily affected by diseases; to protect the plant from them and speed up healing, use a garden varnish. It is used to treat the wound immediately after the procedure; such treatment significantly reduces the likelihood of infection.
Before starting work, you should carefully examine the bush and determine the scope of future work. By correctly distributing the scheme for pruning currants in the fall and highlighting the branches that should remain. After the work, at least 1/3 of the original volume of the bush should remain. Careless or excessive pruning of currants in the fall can weaken the plant or lead to its death.Pruning an old bush
The inspection of the bush should begin from the root part, it is there that it is better to see which of the branches are the oldest or diseased.
When examining an old bush, the first thing to do is identify branches affected by diseases or pests and carefully remove them. Branches with brown spots visible on the cut are affected by glassware; they must be removed before the white cut appears and all cut parts must be burned.
The video talks about currant pests and the rules for pruning an old bush:
After examining the bush, they identify old branches that are more than 5–6 years old. They have low productivity and require nutrition for their growth, taking it from developing shoots, and therefore must be destroyed. Such branches are easy to distinguish by color. Young ones are light gray or yellow, while old ones are dark brown.
The branching order will help determine the age of the branch. Let's look at a currant branch in the diagram, which will help in pruning currants in the fall to rejuvenate an old bush:
The first year of life corresponds to the axis of the basal shoot, designated “a”. The next branch “b” from the axis develops in the second year of growth. The third year of growth corresponds to the section of branch “c”. The four- and five-year branches are designated “d” and “d”, respectively. Armed with knowledge of the structure of shoots, when inspecting a bush before pruning, it is much easier to identify branches that need to be removed.
Every year the branch grows less and becomes weaker. Upon inspection, it is necessary to determine the condition of the shoots. If the old branch has good growth, at least 10–15 cm, and large flower buds, then it can be left. The diagram shows in red the branches to be removed and the appearance of the bush after pruning:
This is especially true for old neglected bushes, on which replacement shoots may be too weak to produce good harvests. In this case, it is not recommended to remove old branches; they should be shortened to a strong lateral branch. The diagram shows an old blackcurrant branch pruned in autumn:
After the next currant crop has been harvested, the bushes must be processed in a timely manner in order to obtain a good amount of large and juicy berries next year. Pruning currants after harvesting allows the plant to form correctly and not get sick. The enemies of unkempt currants are also insect pests. To reduce the risk of infection, excess and old branches are carefully removed.
Tool preparation and processing methods
Proper pruning of currants is the key to a wonderful harvest!
It must be remembered that pruning branches is very stressful for currants, so this process must be approached with special care. You usually have to trim a lot of branches, so the result directly depends on the condition of the tool you have to use. The hacksaw or pruning shears must be well sharpened so that the cuts are neat and small.
When is the best time to prune currants? For this important event, it is better to choose a sunny and dry day at the end of October, at the beginning of November.
The process is simplified if the bush is young and has not yet bear fruit. In this case, you will only have to cut off unnecessary root shoots. For the harmonious formation of a bush, three or four shoots are enough.
If the age of the bush is more than 4 years, then every year in the fall all dry and diseased shoots are carefully removed, which the plant no longer needs, but only gives them its vital juices and strength. These branches will no longer be of any use - they will no longer bear fruit. And for insects, they become a favorite habitat, which is why the entire currant bush gradually becomes sick.
How to distinguish diseased currant branches from healthy ones?
Before you start processing the plant, you must carefully inspect all the branches. The color of the bark of young and old shoots is very different. Young ones are covered with light greenish bark, while old ones are covered with brown bark with a grayish coating. Branches with weak growths, poorly developed buds, visible marks damage by various diseases - the plant no longer needs them, and they must be removed to keep the bush in excellent condition. Pruning your currants will help the plant stay healthy.
But if the branch still looks strong, and the flower buds on it are healthy and large, it can be left on the bush for several more years. It happens that young, seemingly healthy branches also do not bear fruit from year to year. Such shoots will also have to be removed.
Which branches are urgently removed?
How to prune currants correctly? Without any hesitation, you can cut down the lower branches of the currant bush, which bend down to the ground under the weight of the berries. Such fruits are still not suitable for consumption, because they quickly rot when they come into contact with the ground, and are often covered with dirt.
Shoots that break normal height bushes also need to be removed. Crooked branches growing in the wrong direction only prevent currants from developing normally. They come into contact with other shoots and, during bad weather conditions, easily throw berries off the bush and tear off the tender bark from young branches. It's like tearing off a piece of skin. Open wounds are tasty for insects, and any infection easily affects the plant.
Removing leaves and fertilizing currants
After pruning black currants in the fall, all leaves on the bushes must be torn off. Why do this? The fact is that yellowing, rotting leaves become good nutrient medium for pests.
The ground near the bush is slightly loosened and mixed with fertilizer: 1 bucket of manure per 1 bush. You can feed the plant with a urea solution to which a small amount of ash has been added.
What does a processed currant bush look like?
Typically, pruning of a bush is completed by the fifth year of its life. When the autumn pruning of currants is completed, the “skeleton” of the formed bush should consist of 10-15 main branches. These are both young and old shoots. A healthy bush should have a strong and wide base, thanks to which sunlight falls on all branches. Such a plant becomes covered with buds and then with berries from the middle of the bush. If the currants are not processed, the berries are small and ripen only on the outer shoots, and they may not be present at all in the center of the bush.
Processing Features
Autumn pruning currant processing occurs in several stages:
- When pruning, it is important to leave 3-4 shoots, which bear fruit well this season. After a few years, the bush will consist of up to 20 branches of different ages.
- When the plant reaches the age of 7-8 years, the shoots that appeared in the first year of life should be removed. It is also advisable to trim off weak, diseased, broken branches that are growing in the wrong direction. A fully formed bush will consist of 20-25 branches, the age of which ranges from 1 year to 8 years.
Spring pruning of currants
When is it better to prune currants: in spring or autumn? In addition to autumn pruning, amateur gardeners can also spring treatment plants. This procedure should be started after the period of frost ends and the thaw begins. But it is important not to miss the period in which the plant has not yet begun to form buds and is in a “dormant” state.
How is this process carried out?
- The branches are shortened by one quarter at the edges so that the bush resembles a bowl.
- The crown needs to be thinned out, getting rid of unnecessary thickets that interfere with normal lighting and take away the plant’s energy.
- When pruning a young bush for the first time in spring, it is recommended to leave the 10 strongest shoots.
- In subsequent seasons, one third of the old shoots are removed from the bush.
- It is advisable to carry out spring pruning annually, and at least once every 2 years.
Many inexperienced gardeners, not knowing the rules for caring for currants, they prefer not to cut off old shoots at all, believing that the forces of nature themselves will correct everything, and the currants will always bear fruit beautifully. But that's not true. Simple recommendations will help you preserve the plant and receive a large amount of tasty and healthy berries every year.
How to properly prune blackcurrant bushes - video
We all love to eat delicious currants in the summer. But in order for currants to produce good harvests every year, they should be pruned regularly.
This article will be devoted to when and how to prune currants correctly in the spring.
Why prune currants?
Every berry bush, like fruit tree, annual pruning is necessary if you want to get regular harvests and prolong the life of your plant.
The fact is that the main blackcurrant crop is formed on branches 1-3 years old, mostly on their young annual growth. 4-year-old, and especially older 5-year-old branches give weak growth and, accordingly, a very weak harvest, in other words, they no longer bear fruit at full strength, but only suck nutrients from bush and earth. The situation is aggravated by the fact that old branches are often affected by diseases, excessively shade the bush and prevent young shoots from developing.
Note! Next we will talk about pruning black currants, the nuances and differences between white and red - read in a separate paragraph.
Timely and correct pruning of currants provokes the growth of new root shoots from the underground part of the bush, which are sometimes called “zero” or annual shoots, and also promotes better branching of the bush on perennial branches. Thus, constant replacement of shoots prevents stagnation berry bush, causing it to bear fruit abundantly every year.
When to prune currants in spring: optimal timing
The event is held as soon as the snow has melted (or is just beginning to melt), always before the moment of awakening and buds blooming.
So, the approximate dates for spring pruning of currants are March-April (early May). In the South of Russia - earlier, more northern regions(Urals and Siberia), as well as Middle lane(Moscow region) - noticeably later.
If the procedure is carried out later, this will cause the seedling to lag in growth.
If you prune after the buds have broken, this will greatly injure the bush. As a result, it will take a long period of time to heal the wounds it receives, which means that its fruiting will begin with some delay.
In the picture below, the currant growing season has already begun, therefore, you are already late with pruning and it is better to postpone it until.
Video: pruning black currants in spring and autumn, when and how best to do it
When is it better to prune - in spring or autumn?
Many gardeners cannot decide when it is better to prune currants - in spring or autumn. In general, pruning can be done both in spring and in autumn.
However, in the spring there is noticeably less time to prune currants than in the fall. This is due to the fact that when spring comes, the bushes swell very early. fruit buds(in March-April), in other words, it can be problematic to make it on time.
Therefore, most often, currant pruning is carried out in the summer, after the harvest, and late autumn , and in the spring they only monitor the results obtained. Although, again, whatever is more convenient for you.
Important! If for some reason you still missed spring pruning, then, in principle, everything is done in the same way.
Before you start directly pruning currants, you should familiarize yourself with the basic rules, otherwise it will not bring any benefit. In addition, it is very important to prepare the necessary tools.
Advice! In the future, when pruning currants, it will help you a lot if you know the structure of its bush.
Tools
For bush pruning work, you should definitely use a special garden tools(under no circumstances should you break off branches with your hands), namely the most common pruning shears. It's even better to also take pruning shears with long handles. And for very old and thick branches, you'll likely need a small handsaw.
Each of the devices must be sharp. This is necessary in order not to provoke painful injuries.
What and how to prune correctly (which branches and shoots)
What branches and shoots currants needs to be trimmed in spring:
How to distinguish old branches from young ones is described below.
- branches, strongly inclined to the ground(practically lying on the surface of the ground), because in the summer they still won’t have enough light for full fruiting.
- In addition, you should delete all branches growing towards the center (inside) of the bush so that they don't thicken it.
In order for the shrub to bear fruit well and not get sick, it must be well lit and ventilated.
Important! If you shorten the branch and see that in the center inside her black hole, that is, she struck by glass, That such a shoot must be completely removed. Although, of course, you can try to cut it back to healthy wood, but most often you have to cut it completely (to the base).
How to prune branches and shoots correctly currants in spring:
- Sick, damaged and old (4-5 year old) branches and shoots needs to be completely cut out, practically flush with the ground, trying not to leave stumps.
If you leave tall stumps, you may end up with a kind of “hedgehog” of stumps, but this is not at all necessary.
- When you pinch or shorten young shoots, they need to be cut to a bud, and specifically to the outer one, so that new escape began to grow outward, rather than inward, of the bush.
- Distinguish young shoots from old branches quite simple: old branches (3-5 years old) are thick and dark brown (almost black) in color (they usually still have growths of lichens or mosses), while fresh 1-2 year old shoots are thin and have lighter wood .
By the way! The tops of currants remaining after shortening annual branches can be conveniently used as cuttings for rooting before winter, in other words, at the same time the shrub can be propagated using cuttings.
Video: how to prune black currants in spring
Differences in pruning red and white currants from black ones
One of the main differences in pruning white and red currants from black is the fact that the latter pruned much more often. In other words, the black variety requires more control in growth and, accordingly, is pruned more often. The growth of red and white currants zero shoots more reserved, besides she can bear fruit normally even on 5-7 year old branches, while black is only for 3-4 year olds. Thus, if you do not regularly prune the blackcurrant, it will crush itself with overgrown branches deep into the bush. The same applies to red and white currants, but in this case there is no such need to remove branches older than 4-5 years.
Important! If the annual growth of perennial branches of red and white currants becomes less than 15 centimeters, then they should be disposed of. However, you need to be careful when pruning old branches with multiple branches of red and white currants, because... they give a fairly good harvest (unlike the black variety).
Video: pruning red currants to get a good harvest
Another important difference in pruning is that Blackcurrant tops should not be shortened too much, otherwise you will be left without a significant part of the harvest, while red and white are possible.
Video: what is the difference between pruning black and red currants
How to form a young currant bush and trim the old one: formative and rejuvenating pruning in spring
Depending on the age of the bushes, the specifics of pruning also differ - the formation of young currants (from the moment the seedling is planted) and the rejuvenation of the old crop.
How to shape currants in spring by year: formative pruning scheme
If you are growing a shrub from scratch, planting it annual seedling( or ), then you should adhere to a certain scheme for pruning currants as they grow, or rather, correctly form your currant bush year after year, for 4 years:
- After planting the seedling– everything above 4 buds from the base of the soil is removed. Such radical pruning contributes to the correct formation of the crown. Next year, at least 4-8 young shoots will grow from the remaining buds.
- After 1 year— the tops of all young branches are trimmed (more precisely, pinched) by 1/3 of their length above the buds.
- After 2 years– pruning (pinching) of all zero shoots, as well as parts of the skeletal branches, is again carried out. On 2-year-old branches, you need to get rid of competing annual branches by pruning for transfer, i.e. to the side branch (you need to leave stronger shoots with big amount kidney). To enhance the growth of the remaining part of the branch, for better branching, trim (pinch) the tops of all other first- and second-order growths above their buds. This will provoke the young bush to grow wider.
- 3 years later– fully correspond to pruning on a 3-year-old seedling. Again, you need to eliminate all shoots that thicken the internal branches of the bush, competing branches, and also pinch the tops.
If all the conditions are met correctly, then by the 4th year you will get a lush, well-formed shrub.
- For 4 years and beyond- at this moment, aging shoots are already beginning to form. At the end of the season, all old 4-year-old branches should be removed at the root. All other shoots after the 4th year of the plant’s life are pruned according to the 2nd year type. In addition, it is necessary to leave 3-6 new zero replacement shoots every year.
Thus, as a result, a 4-year-old bush should have about 9-18 zero-order branches of different ages. Classic scheme: 3-6 branches of annuals, 3-6 branches of biennials and 3-6 branches of three-years, as well as 3-6 branches of four-years, which must be removed and will be replaced with annuals.
You can see an illustrated diagram of pruning (forming) black currants by year in the picture below:
Important! When cutting and shaping red or white currants There are a couple of nuances that are described in a separate paragraph (above).
What to do with an old and neglected bush - what’s it calledtrim
If you inherited an old plot or you bought a dacha with already overly thickened currant bushes (but they are no more than 10-15 years old) that produce a meager harvest, then, in principle, you can try to revive it by carrying out proper anti-aging pruning.
By the way! A currant bush can grow well and bear fruit normally for no more than 10-15 years (the maximum is 20 years). Then you need to get rid of it, and first by propagating it using one of the vegetative methods.
Naturally, It’s better to start with sanitary pruning currant bush, and then cut out all the old branches. The bush will be cleared, in other words, they will create the necessary conditions for the growth of young shoots of zero order.
However, if you do not want to lose most of the harvest and extend the yield for another year, then, as an option, you can prune old branches by transferring them to younger shoots.
What if it's too much old branches (5 years and older), on which completely no young growth(and in most cases they are affected by glass), then, naturally, they are required delete completely.
Video: rejuvenating pruning of an old currant bush in the spring so as not to lose the harvest
What else is included in the spring care of currants?
Thus, proper care picking currants in spring includes the following activities:
- direct spring pruning;
- treatment of shrubs from diseases and pests.
- Feeding.
Video: spring care for currants
Thus, pruning currants is a mandatory annual (spring or autumn) agrotechnical procedure that allows you to obtain regular and high-quality harvests delicious berries, which even a novice gardener can handle with due diligence.
Video: how to properly prune young and old blackcurrant bushes
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Pruning currant bushes is one of the mandatory measures for caring for the crop. What does it affect? First of all - on the number and size of fruits. An overgrown bush becomes voluminous, but the yield decreases. Autumn pruning has its advantages. At this time, the plant is preparing for winter, sap flow is suspended, so the procedure is easier to tolerate than in spring or summer. It is also important to properly prepare the crop for winter.
The technology and timing of pruning directly depend on the age of the bush. The highest yields are produced by shoots whose age does not exceed 3-4 years. Branches that are older only draw back food without producing berries, so it is recommended to get rid of them. Proper pruning helps:
- the formation of larger berries;
- improving the taste of currants due to better access to sunlight;
- extension of fruiting period;
- acceleration of growth.
The timing must be chosen correctly. Autumn pruning is best done on the eve of frost. If you do this in warm weather, the bush can give rise to new shoots, which then inevitably freeze out in winter.
The most the right time For the procedure, the end of October or the beginning of November is considered. At this point, there should be no leaves left on the bush. Pruning must be carried out annually, according to a certain scheme.
When pruning currant bushes in autumn, you need to get rid of:
- thin and weak shoots;
- diseased and withered branches;
- branches that do not bear fruit;
- young shoots that thicken the bush too much.
On a note! Branches affected by any disease are cut out at the root and burned.
Cuts must be made sharp instrument, 0.5-1 cm above the outer kidney. The cut areas must be treated garden varnish. You cannot prune the bud, otherwise the remaining shoot will dry out completely. Branches should be cut close to the ground. If you leave the stumps only 2-3 cm high, they can begin to grow again, awakening the dormant buds.
On a note! Garden shears will provide a perfectly even cut; for thick branches, hacksaws with small teeth are usually used, act in hard to reach places It is most convenient to use a lopper. Secateurs can be called universal tool for branches of different thicknesses.
Never break off branches with your hands or use a regular knife - after such a barbaric “pruning” the plant will have a long time to recover.
First, dry and old branches should be cut out, then unripe green shoots should be removed. After this, remove all the branches that grow towards the center, intertwine with each other, and unnecessarily thicken the bush. At the last stage, diseased branches are removed.
According to the rules, you cannot remove many shoots at one time - this will greatly weaken the plant and it may die. It is permissible to cut out no more than one third of the skeletal branches at a time.
Important! If, when pruning, you find that the core has a gray-black color, it means that the currants have been affected by a pest such as glass beetle. No matter how sorry it is for the plant, it will have to be cut very short and only shoots with a clean, light core will be left. If you do not find any healthy branches inside on such a specimen, the bush should be uprooted.
The first anti-aging pruning is carried out in the fifth year of the bush’s life. black currant. During it, half of all shoots are cut out. This number should include old, diseased branches that thicken the crown. After such drastic pruning, you need to give the plant nutrition, this will help it recover faster.
Next season, 20 of the strongest branches are left from the growth, the remaining shoots must be removed. After another year, the rest of the old shoots are cut out, and only 10 of the young branches are left. Thus, in 3 years it will be possible to completely rejuvenate old bush. Five-year-old non-fruit-bearing branches must be cut out completely.
At a very early stage, it is important to correctly form the bush - this will help obtain maximum yield. The first formative pruning is carried out immediately after planting the seedling. The tops of all shoots are cut off, leaving 2-3 buds on each. To ensure good growth of a young bush, no more than 4 shoots are left on it. It is recommended to prune a two-year-old bush in mid-summer. The tops of the shoots are shortened by 10 cm - this gives the bush new strength.
For active growth in the fall of the same year, the most powerful young branches are left, and the rest are removed. Thus, the skeleton of the bush is formed. It is better to remove side branches because they shade other shoots and prevent them from developing. A three-year-old blackcurrant bush has from 15 to 20 branches growing from the ground. Autumn pruning involves the removal of underdeveloped, defective shoots.
Even if the bush has grown well over the summer and looks healthy and strong, it still needs attention. After all, there are long cold months ahead, which are a test for all plants, and black currants are no exception. If you do not provide the shrub with proper care, in the future you may encounter crop disease, reduced yield, and the formation of small and sour berries.
In addition to pruning, the plant needs fertilizing, moisture-recharging watering and proper preparation for winter. But first you need to pay attention to the bite area. It is necessary to remove fallen leaves, young twigs, remaining trimmings and various debris from under the bush. All this waste can be burned, resulting in a beautiful natural fertilizer – wood ash, which can be used for fertilizing.
After the bite area is clean, it is dug to a shallow depth. Try not to go deeper into the soil layer than 7-8 cm, then you will definitely not damage the roots. After digging, pest larvae and pathogenic microflora will appear on the surface, which will die over the winter from frost, which will reduce the risk of bush diseases. At the same time, the structure of the soil, its water and air permeability will improve.
The main rule when applying fertilizers in the fall is that they do not contain nitrogen. This chemical element activates the growth of young shoots, which is completely inappropriate in the autumn months. New branches that appear at this time of year will not be able to ripen before winter and will be subject to frost. That is why it is strictly forbidden to apply fresh manure containing excess nitrogen compounds in the fall.
Experts believe the best option fertilizing mixture 1.5 tbsp. l. superphosphate and 1 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate. This amount of fertilizer is designed for one currant bush under 5 years old. For older plants, the dose is doubled.
In the fall, experts recommend carrying out water-recharging irrigation to successful wintering and active growth of currants in early spring. Its principle is based on introducing large quantity water penetrating into the soil to a considerable depth. In this case, the soil will freeze gradually and, conversely, remain frozen during the thaw period in winter.
This technique gives the plant the opportunity to develop suction roots and maintain a supply of moisture in case there is not enough snow during the winter and the bush does not receive enough moisture in the spring. Water-recharging irrigation is carried out after harvesting in September, when the bush begins to actively lose leaves. 3-4 buckets of water are poured under young bushes; for older plants, the moisture rate is doubled.
It is necessary to water the currants in such a way that the water is absorbed in the bush area and does not spread beyond it. Carry out such watering better method sprinkling. Please take into account weather. If autumn is rainy, the amount of moisture added is reduced by half, and for dense clay soil the rate is reduced by 3 times.
Black currants tolerate 25-degree frosts without problems, but this does not mean that they can not be prepared for wintering. After the fertilizers have been applied, it is necessary to add soil under the bush. The soil must be fertile and fresh. It is thoroughly compacted so that not even the slightest voids remain. Additionally, half a bucket of rotted manure is mixed into the soil.
This must be done no earlier than the end of October. The manure will then serve as a mulch layer to help protect the roots if frost hits too early before snow falls. You can also use fallen leaves, sawdust, and sheets of cardboard as mulch. Just don’t forget to remove this “insulation” in a timely manner in the spring so that the sun can quickly warm the earth with its rays.
At the same time it is recommended to preventative treatment against fungal diseases. For this purpose, currants are sprayed Bordeaux mixture at 3 percent concentration. The bush must be treated carefully so that the drug reaches every branch. If the chemical saturates the ground, then nothing bad will happen. On the contrary, additional disinfection of the soil will occur.
In those regions where frost in winter exceeds 25 degrees, the branches need to be bent to the ground and secured. The most convenient way is to group them in a bunch, cover them with a board and put a few bricks on top. In areas where the temperature drops below -35 degrees, gardeners even have to dig in the branches slightly. It is enough to throw a 10 cm thick layer of soil on top so that the shoots do not freeze. After the snow falls, throw it on the currant bush and compact it slightly.
Important! Do not use sheets of metal as cover. Iron has high thermal conductivity and will transfer additional cold to the plant. Doesn't fit either polyethylene film– under it the bush will not be able to breathe and will die.
Pruning black currants in autumn: video
Careful and step-by-step measures for caring for black currants in autumn time will be the key to successful wintering of the plant and its active spring growth. If you fully adhere to the agricultural technology of the crop, the life of the currant bush can be extended for decades without deteriorating the quality of the crop.