EntranceDIY siding step by step. Step-by-step instructions for installing all siding elements yourself
The advantages of siding finishing are difficult to dispute. This material has undeniable advantages that distinguish it from other types of finishing materials. The high popularity of siding coatings is explained by the fact that they have a number of advantages.
Before installing siding, there are a few things to consider: Features that this type of material for cladding a house has:
- high level of environmental cleanliness, which allows you not to fear for the life and health of residents;
- the siding coating is characterized by significant resistance to any natural temperature changes, and also does not support the combustion process at all;
- siding panels are not subject to rotting and are able to maintain their basic shape and color scheme for quite a long time;
- the technology for laying this type of wall covering does not require professional skills or the use of special equipment, and detailed diagram or the assembly instructions allow you to do it yourself.
In addition, siding combines perfectly with other types of finishing materials and allows you to end up with an original and individual combination for decorating your home yourself.
Standard installation of siding is not difficult, but before laying siding on the facade or basement of the house, you should carefully read the basic installation rules, as well as the assembly diagram and instructions.
Siding installation technology (video)
Preparatory work
In order to install siding panels as competently as possible, you should not only carefully study the method of covering the facade of the house with material in accordance with the instructions, but also follow a step-by-step sequence of actions. Initially, it is necessary to determine the required number of panels that are needed to cover the façade of the building. This can be done by calculating the front area, to which 10% is added for adjusting the material.
Covering with siding panels involves preliminary preparation surface from which any foreign elements that impede installation are removed. All window openings are freed from bars. Platbands, shutters and slopes must also be removed. In addition, proper installation involves dismantling doors and drainpipes. All cracks and gaps on the facade of the house should be sealed extremely carefully.
The next stage of the finishing process is the manufacture of sheathing based on wooden beams. The frame material is fixed on the wall surface in a vertical direction with a distance between fasteners of 40 cm. The lathing cannot be fastened in a horizontal direction, since such installation may damage natural ventilation behind-panel space on the facade of the house. Sheathing beams should also be placed around doors, windows and in corner areas of the house.
It is imperative to provide high-quality sealing of all areas that may be exposed to moisture. The main process of siding finishing a house must begin by establishing a starting point. The first row of panel siding should be laid so that the fixed elements can cover the upper fragment of the foundation. Thus, horizontal markings should be made around the perimeter of the house.
It should be remembered that the sheathing frame can be made not only from lumber, but also using.
The choice of lathing is based on the type of finishing and should take into account the type of walls of the structure being finished. As a rule, the cladding of the façade is carried out using wood, vinyl, basement, steel or aluminum siding.
Basic rules and schemes
The finishing technology for siding construction involves following the following basic installation rules:
- Installation of the initial strip, which is supplied complete with finishing material. The plank should be nailed with small nails according to the level of the previously made markings.
- The first panel of trim siding is secured to the starting strip and nailed in place, starting from the center section.
- A new finishing strip section is fixed, and then sequential installation of all subsequent rows is carried out finishing material.
- The right solution is to choose additional elements from the manufacturer whose siding panels are used for cladding. Such components are optimally suited for installation and allow you to create a reliable and guaranteed durable coating on the facade of the building.
Instructions for cladding
Most manufacturers producing certified siding products for cladding the facade and basement parts of a building accompany their products with a mandatory instruction diagram, which contains a detailed description following conditions for installation of material:
- list of equipment and tools necessary for high-quality performance installation work;
- when carrying out the full scope of work, the need for additional or component elements, as well as additional products;
- the main stages and rules, which involve the installation of a starting profile and corner elements, installation of frames on window and door openings, installation of H-shaped profiles for combining siding panels, installation of a J-shaped profile.
In addition, in the attached instructions, the manufacturer may specify the possibilities for installing horizontal and vertical versions of siding panels, as well as installation work on the use of soffits and a J-shaped chamfer. Arched work requires special attention.
Siding installation mistakes (video)
You should not neglect the manufacturer’s recommendations for caring for siding panels. This will help extend the service life, as well as maintain the quality characteristics of the finishing material throughout its service life.
Siding is one of the most popular materials for exterior decoration. The panels can have a wide variety of colors, which allows you to create a finish that fits most harmoniously into the surrounding landscape. At the same time, you can handle the installation of the finishing material in question yourself. Read the instructions and get to work.
It is better not to do siding when the air temperature is less than -5 degrees. IN cool weather Be careful: when the siding freezes, it becomes quite fragile. Carry out all manipulations of cutting and fixing elements carefully; in such conditions, any careless movement can lead to cracks.
Before installation, the panels must be left outside for several hours. This way they will acclimatize and accept required size(the siding material is subject to temperature deformations).
Necessary calculations
Before you go to the store, calculate the required quantity finishing panels and related materials.
Measure the following dimensions of the building:
- length;
- height;
- dimensions of door and window openings;
- dimensions of other recesses and protrusions.
Calculate total area surface to be finished. To do this, calculate the total area of the house, and then subtract from the resulting value the total area of all elements that are not subject to cladding (glazed windows, door leaves etc.). Add 7-10% reserve to the calculated value.
Measure the area of one trim element. In most cases it is 1 m2, but double check just in case. A consultant at a specialized store can tell you the same value.
Divide the total area of the surface to be covered by the area of the panel. This way you will find the required number of finishing elements.
Additionally, buy slats 40x60 mm. From these you will assemble the sheathing.
Buy various consumables - dowels, screws, etc. The number of consumables is calculated very simply: 1 fastener is required for 400 mm of slats.
Buy nails made of aluminum or galvanized metal. For 300 mm of a finishing element it will take 1 nail.
Also buy consumables with a 5-10 percent reserve.
Calculate the required quantity thermal insulation material. To do this, divide the total area of the surface to be coated by the area of the slab (sheet) of heat-insulating material. This way you will determine the required number of insulation boards.
Mineral wool insulation is traditionally used for thermal insulation. These materials are characterized by the most optimal properties and “get along” well with siding.
Installation kit
- Hammer.
- Building level.
- Yardstick.
- Hacksaw.
- Protective glasses.
To cut the material you will need a hacksaw. Instead of hand hacksaw You can use an electric circular saw. The disc should have fine teeth. If cutting vinyl siding, set the saw to rotate the blade in the opposite direction. Cut siding made from other materials in the forward direction, since reverse cutting in such situations is very dangerous.
You can also use hand metal scissors to cut cladding elements. With this tool you can cut elements of a wide variety of shapes and sizes from siding. Use the scissor blades to approximately ¾ of the length - this way the cutting will be as accurate as possible.
Siding can also be cut using a sharp knife. To do this, first make a mark on the panel, then leave a fairly deep groove on the panel with a knife, and then carefully bend and straighten the panel. Repeat until the element bursts along the line you left.
It is not recommended to cut right through the panel with a knife - you can ruin the finishing material.
The panel should begin to be cut from the fastening part (top). Wear safety glasses when cutting.
Siding Installation Guide
After completing all preliminary activities, begin finishing. Start by preparing the base.
Preparing the base
First step. Remove all third-party objects from the walls: drain pipes, shutters, all kinds of gratings and other removable elements - all this must be removed.
Second step. Install the sheathing. Due to the frame, the unevenness of the base will be leveled. If installed without sheathing, the siding will deform very quickly.
In addition, if it is planned to insulate the walls, it will not be possible to do without lathing.
Assemble the lathing from wooden slats(timber). When installing an insulated structure, place the sheathing elements in increments a couple of centimeters smaller than the width of the mineral wool insulation. If the siding is attached without thermal insulation, fix the frame slats in 40-centimeter increments. Mount the slats vertically.
Check the evenness of the sheathing. Correct distortions and sagging by adding wooden shims or increasing the frequency of fastening the slats, if possible.
Don't forget to secure the slats around door, window and other openings. Also, frame elements must be present at the corners.
Third step. Relevant in case of arrangement of an insulated facade. If insulation is not part of your plans, skip this step.
Cover the sheathing slats plastic film. To fix the waterproofing, use a construction stapler with staples. Place insulation in the cells of the sheathing on top of the waterproofing. Place thermal insulation boards tightly, without gaps. Cover the thermal insulation with a vapor-permeable membrane film.
Everything is ready to install the panels. You just need to choose the appropriate fastener.
Recommendations for choosing fasteners for fixing siding
To fasten the cladding elements in question, you can use screws, stainless nails or special staples.
Select fasteners of such length that they go deeper into the wooden sheathing by at least 2 cm. Screws and nails must be inserted strictly into the center of the factory mounting holes (originally present on the siding). Do not drive (screw in) the fasteners completely. A gap of 1 mm will be sufficient.
Gaps must also be left between adjacent panels. The siding material is subject to temperature deformation. On average, as the temperature rises, it expands to 0.5-1 cm. Therefore, the gap size should be close to 10 mm.
Without the presence of the mentioned gaps, the cladding simply becomes deformed at the first warming.
Proceed with installation of siding. First, all additional elements are attached, and then the main panels.
First step
Install the flashing starting from the corner of the building. First make a corner piece to place on the corners of the building. Attach the next ebbs with a 25 mm overlap on the previous ones.
Second step
Set up a starting profile. It should be placed 3-4 cm above the nail strip of the previously installed flashing.
Third step
Install special corner elements at the joints of the walls of the building. The upper part of such angles should be placed 2-4 mm below the cornice. Leave 3-6 mm gaps between the bottom of the corner elements and the starting profile.
Fourth step
Install the appropriate lengths of J-profile, and then install trims and jambs around the perimeter of the doors and windows.
In the J-profile, near the top cashing element, you need to make cuts about 2 cm long on both sides and bend them downwards. Water will be drained through the bent elements.
Fix the finishing strip around the perimeter of the windows.
Fifth step
Fix the molding and finishing profile under the roof eaves. Attach the mentioned elements to the wall.
Sixth step
Proceed with the installation of the main panels. Start sheathing from the initial profile. Be especially careful when installing the first siding panel - it should be fixed as evenly as possible. Otherwise, all other finishing elements will also be fixed skewed.
Insert the siding panel into the starter profile and snap the lock along its entire length. Nail the upper part of the facing panel to the sheathing using the factory holes. Finish the entire planned surface according to this scheme: insert the lower part of the element into the panel fixed below, top part nail to the sheathing.
Be careful not to pull the trim panels too hard or you risk deforming the engagement. When installing, remember the required clearances.
Siding installation ends in the finishing profile. For such fixation, make “hooks” at the top of the cladding element.
Now you will not have any problems with installing siding yourself. Follow the recommendations received and everything will definitely work out.
Good luck!
Video - DIY siding installation instructions
It is necessary to choose a material that will provide a high degree of protection of the walls from negative influences environment and will be able to save decorative properties throughout the entire service life. That is why many choose siding for finishing not only new buildings, but also for the restoration of erected buildings and objects. A simple “constructor” type assembly technology will allow you to quickly and without extra costs Install the siding yourself - the instructions for dummies describe in detail all stages of the work.
The popularity of siding is difficult to overestimate due to its versatility, accessibility and aesthetics
Finishing buildings with siding panels, compared to other materials, has the following advantages:
- High resistance to negative external factors: precipitation, sudden temperature changes, some chemical compounds and ultraviolet radiation. The material retains its strength and decorative properties throughout the entire period of operation declared by the manufacturer.
- The design of the cladding and sheathing has minimal weight, which allows finishing of objects with shallow foundations without additional reinforcement of the supporting structure.
- There is no need to level the façade walls due to installation on the sheathing. This significantly reduces the work time, and also allows you to lay heat and waterproofing layers in the space between the wall and the siding.
- The cladding does not require any maintenance or care.
- High level of fire safety and resistance to minor mechanical stress.
- The presence of a wide range of decorative colors will allow you to easily choose the one you need and create a unique home design without spending money on purchasing and painting it in the desired color. Moreover, unique textured images with imitation of natural materials, distinguished by a clear and rich pattern, are also available.
- A simple installation technology that can be mastered by people who have not previously encountered construction work.
Types of additional components
In order to simplify the installation of facade cladding, many additional components are produced that are designed to ensure a tight fit to various elements of the house, installation of surfaces of complex shapes, as well as reliable engagement with the main wall. The components are designed to ensure the rigidity and stability of the structure, as well as prevent the formation of moisture on inside material.
Important information! The material of the components must match the siding in order to ensure uniform thermal characteristics and prevent deformation due to differences in thermal expansion coefficients. Therefore, it is recommended to use only original additional and fastening elements.
List of additional components:
- The starting and finishing strip allows you to avoid distortions and other installation errors, as well as improve the decorative properties of the finish.
- Corner elements. Designed to decorate the corners of a building and hide the sheathing. Protects from dust and moisture ingress inner surface panels.
- Window and door frames are intended for finishing the junctions of the corresponding openings. J-profiles can also be used for these purposes, but they have worse aesthetic properties.
- Window and door profiles are used for finishing and protecting slopes from the external environment. Due to their use, slopes look natural and aesthetically pleasing.
- J-profile. Used for fastening row panels to the side. It has versatility, so it is also used instead of platbands, finishing and corner profiles, even though there are specialized elements.
- J-chamfer. A special element designed to be installed as a cornice. It is a specialized replacement for the J-profile when installing an abutment to the roof.
- Low tides. They are used to remove moisture from the roof, as well as to design window and door openings.
- Ceiling soffits. Designed for finishing ceilings of open structures: terraces, summer kitchens, etc. They can be made solid or perforated. They perform not only decorative functions, but also provide ventilation of the space between the wall and the siding along the sheathing, and also protect internal structures from pests.
- Moldings. Serve to connect horizontal and vertical planes of panels.
- H-profile. Used to extend panels lengthwise.
Siding installation price per m 2 for work
Siding of objects with the involvement of professional construction teams will be carried out with high quality and in the shortest possible time. In this case, it is not necessary to order a full range of work, but only individual services are sufficient.
The cost of work will depend on the following factors:
- The number of window and door openings, the covering of which requires a significant investment of time and the use of special additional elements.
- Wall areas.
- Difficulty of work. This concept includes the presence of walls with complex plane transitions, the need to install insulating layers, the type of wall material and other factors.
- Type of material selected.
In each case, the calculation will be performed by a specialist from the selected company. The table below shows the prices for siding installation, price per m2 for work.
Approximate cost of basic and auxiliary work during siding installation for Moscow| Facade works | Unit change | price, rub. |
|---|---|---|
| Installation vinyl siding on the walls | m2 | 250 |
| Installation of vinyl siding on roofing | m2 | 300 |
| Installation of fiber cement siding | m2 | 680 |
| Installation of hydro-vapor barrier film | m2 | 60 |
| Installation of wooden lathing on wood | m2 | 100 |
| Installation of wooden sheathing on brick or concrete | m2 | 200 |
| Installation of 50 mm insulation | m2 | 90 |
| Installation of 100 mm insulation | m2 | 170 |
| Fire-bio processing of timber | linear meters | 14 |
| Fire-bio treatment of wooden surfaces | m2 | 80 |
| Fire-bio treatment of boards | linear meters | 19 |
| Installation of metal drips | linear meters | 100 |
| Installation of ventilation grilles | PC. | 140 |
Preparatory work
Before carrying out installation work on the façade cladding, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory works. They include the following stages: choosing the type of panels and sheathing, calculating materials and additional elements, as well as determining the number of thermal and waterproofing layers.
Selecting the type of panels
The choice of material for cladding largely determines the service life of the entire structure, strength and performance characteristics. Currently the choice is limited to the following options:
- Wood. Is different high level thermal insulation, environmental friendliness and excellent decorative qualities. Its cost is minimal compared to other types of siding. However, it has short term service (up to 8 years) and requires periodic maintenance (treatment with antiseptics and painting).
- Metal. It is strong and durable, resistant to mold, mildew and pests, and can withstand significant temperature changes. It is very sensitive to damage, since even a small scratch on the protective layer can lead to the onset of corrosion processes.
- Vinyl. It is the most profitable option, as it is free from all the disadvantages of wood and metal siding. It has minimal weight, is resistant to any precipitation, is environmentally friendly, has maximum term service up to 50 years. It is distinguished by the presence of a wide range of colors. With such advantages, the cost of this material is relatively low, which is why experts recommend choosing it. A video of installing vinyl siding with your own hands will allow you to appreciate all the advantages of this material.
Calculation of the quantity of materials
The amount of material can be calculated quite simply if you have a building design in hand. Otherwise, you will have to measure the length and width of each wall, as well as window and door openings. Based on the data obtained, a sketch or drawing should be made. After this, the amount of material that will be used to create the sheathing is determined, taking into account the uniform arrangement of vertical or horizontal guides with an interval of 40-50 cm and fastenings along the guides with the same interval.
Helpful information! You can use a building design for calculations only if it was erected no later than 2-3 years. This is due to the possible appearance of defects on the walls (for example, cracks caused by subsidence of the foundation), which, after elimination, can cause the walls to widen by several centimeters. When installing the cladding of the facade of a building, this is critical because you will have to find a way out of the situation already during the installation process.
After calculating the amount of materials for the sheathing, you need to calculate the number of panels. This can be done quite simply by dividing the total area of the walls, minus the area of the openings, by the dimensions of one panel. It is recommended to add a margin of approximately 10-15% to the obtained value, which will take into account possible damage during delivery or installation.
Calculator for calculating the quantity and cost of siding per house
How to significantly increase all the practical characteristics of a house and at the same time make the house look more solid and attractive? Regular siding will help achieve these goals. Step-by-step instructions for dummies will tell you in detail about all the types of this building façade cladding and how to properly install siding with your own hands.
Required tools and materials
Any construction and repair process begins with the preparation of the necessary tools and building materials. What does siding installation technology require?
Regardless of the type of siding, the master will definitely need such electric tools, like a portable circular saw and screwdriver.
Among the usual repair tools at hand, the following will be useful:
- Level;
- Roulette;
- Hammer;
- Hacksaw for metal;
- Cutter knife;
- Awl;
- Screwdriver;
- Pliers.
Fastening siding involves active work on wood or metal, which means it is advisable to protect it from fine particles eyes and hands. To do this, builders advise wearing safety glasses and construction gloves.
Which siding is better, metal or vinyl?
Depending on the material from which the house siding elements are made, there are several most popular types of siding: wood (blockhouse), metal and vinyl. Which siding is better?
Let's analyze each type from the customer's point of view (i.e., by external indicators and cost) and from the position of the master installer (i.e., what needs to be done to pre-prepare the panels, how easy it is to install the siding, how to calculate the cost of siding and consumables etc.).
Vinyl siding is made from polyvinyl chloride, practically no preparatory work Installation of vinyl siding is not required. This material will be mounted on the wall of the house without special effort, since all panels are made according to a clear geometry.
Of the positive performance characteristics worth mentioning:
- Environmental safety;
- High fire safety;
- Polymer siding almost completely eliminates the risk of rotting and damage by fungal diseases;
- Tolerance to temperature fluctuations (from -50 to +50 C).
Negative indicators of vinyl siding include:
- Low noise and heat insulation;
- Inability to create bright contrasting colors;
- It will not be possible to restore a color worn out by time;
- After installation, the vinyl surface requires constant treatment and careful care;
- The manufacturer provides a warranty period for trouble-free operation of only 50 years and only if the structure is installed correctly.
Metal siding is panels made of galvanized steel with additional coating with various dyes.
What has:
- Excellent resistance to fire and fungal attack;
- Not necessary special care for siding (it is enough to periodically wash with water);
- Metal panels are most convenient for implementing a wide variety of design ideas: more than 100 color options+ decorative coatings;
- Before installation, no special preparation of the original surface is carried out;
- Installation is easy at any ambient temperature;
- There is no need to adjust parts with a hacksaw.
The disadvantages buyers include:
- A complete lack of sound and heat insulation, which means that installation of siding with insulation will be necessary;
- Poor resistance to mechanical damage;
- The service life is up to 50 years, also with proper installation.
Features of installation of block house siding are even more complex:
- Here, additional pre-treatment of the wood with an antiseptic solution and various varnishes and dyes is necessary;
- The most basic surface of the building needs to be cleaned;
- Horizontal panels should be fixed to the surface in a special way;
- Constant treatment of the siding surface is required after installation;
- Due to the considerable weight of the wood, the structure weighs down the walls of the house;
- Extremely high fire hazard;
- Threat of rotting and infection with fungal diseases;
- Possibility of color presentation of siding: only shades of wood, i.e. brown siding with halftone shades.
Taking into account all the points described above, experts conclude that the duration of using siding under a log depends 100% on pre- and post-treatment/care.
But among the especially valuable characteristics are high heat and sound insulation properties, resistance to mechanical and other types of damage, environmentally friendly and healthy material.
By analyzing the properties of each of the presented types, you can fairly determine which siding will look better on the facade of the house.
Sheathing installation work
Siding always begins with the installation of siding sheathing. What is siding sheathing and why is it needed? The sheathing for siding is a frame made of metal or wooden (section 20-40 mm) guides onto which the siding fence is attached.
- Frame horizontal and vertical slats for sheathing can be made of galvanized, aluminum profile, CD profile for plasterboard or other material: it is important that the contact of the building material on the walls of the house with the sheathing slats does not provoke destructive reactions (corrosion, rotting, etc.).
- Why you need lathing for siding is not difficult to understand. Firstly, this design allows you to “correct” the curvature of the walls of the house, hide small protrusions and surface unevenness. Secondly, it greatly increases the operational durability of the material due to the ventilation created.
- If the siding panels must be laid vertically, then the sheathing is made with horizontal guides. And vice versa: installation of metal siding with horizontal panels requires vertical sheathing.
- Using a level, horizontal and vertical markings are made. From the drawn guides, after 30-40 mm, the frame strips are attached to dowels (for walls made of brick, shell) or to self-tapping screws (for wooden surfaces). Additional sheathing slats are installed under gutters, lamps and other practical elements.
Thermal and moisture insulation
Installation of vinyl siding is not complete without additional measures for thermal insulation and moisture insulation. A thermal insulator in slabs (or in in roll form). Insulation is complemented by a hydrobarrier. On top of the double layer of insulation + waterproofing, another sheathing is installed (parallel to the slats of the first sheathing), on which the exterior siding under a log, made of vinyl, metal or other material.
It is imperative to leave space between the hydro/thermal insulation pad in the sheathing and the wall of the house. This air gap will be an effective aid in implementing the functions of thermal and moisture insulation of the house, which will greatly increase the performance characteristics.
Installation of guide elements
Correct installation of house façade cladding always begins with attaching the first plank. This is a special siding strip, which will subsequently be almost completely hidden by other siding elements. But the final result depends entirely on how accurately this strip is attached: whether you will get beautiful siding or not at all.
What needs to be done? From the bottom of the wall on which you plan to install vinyl siding, measure a distance equal to the thickness of the siding (this is the width of one siding element). A nail is driven into a point along the measured distance from one edge of the wall and a level is used to determine the location for another nail on the opposite edge of the wall.
Two such landmarks are connected by a line - this is the main guide for installing deck siding. After several strips of siding are attached along the frame sheathing, it is worth checking again with a level for the clarity of the guide to eliminate errors.
Installation of external corner profiles
The exterior decoration of the house necessarily includes work on the basement, i.e. protruding part of the foundation. For installation of basement siding, a material of a more expressive format and often of contrasting color is selected.
For example, beige siding for the plinth will look quite impressive under gray siding for the facade of the walls. Corner elements that must be used for installation of basement siding are also used for finishing the corners of windows and doors.
Manufacturers have developed several different shapes for external corner profiles:
- The J-profile is used to secure end and corner panels (in window openings, doors, corner joints), and also as a finishing strip. Under the starting bar this type profile is not recommended to be used, because due to the shape (in the form Latin letter J) water may accumulate in the profile.
- The H-profile is designed for fastening plates together on a flat section of walls.
- The F-profile covers the slopes.
It is necessary to leave a gap of 6 mm between any of the protruding wall elements and the profile - this takes into account the maximum expansion of the profile material when the temperature changes. This is exactly the installation scheme that is performed for contact with the base: there is a 6 mm indent between it and the profile.
Installation of internal corner profiles
The procedure for installing internal corner profiles is practically no different from installing external corners:
- Use J-profile;
- A space of up to 3 mm is left between the profile and the siding panel.
If the wall of the house is more than 3 m, then when installing alto siding on the profile, the profiles should be spliced.
There is such a pattern: vinyl or other siding changes dimensions with increasing/decreasing air temperature, but you can determine in advance the direction of linear expansion of the material. Self-tapping screws are used for this.
If you screw a self-tapping screw into the outermost oval hole of a vertical strip not in the center, but along the very top edge, then the material will not deform upward, but only to the sides and downwards.
Installation of the first panel
As mentioned above, the first panel and first row are a guide to all subsequent rows. It must be attached to the starting bar. From this first panel, all subsequent elements will rise to the top of the wall.
Particular attention and diligence, of course, should be paid to the starting bar. How to properly secure the starting bar is already described above. Once the starting strip is secured, you can proceed to installing the first siding panel.
Practical builders have identified a number of tricks with which you can achieve High Quality and wear resistance of installation of siding panels:
- Strips of siding material have a number of oval holes along the outer strip, which are intended for fastening elements (nails, screws). These fasteners should only be installed in the center of the oval, since this will avoid damage to the panels when their width and length increase with temperature changes.
- The advice regarding the tightness of the screw heads to the panel surface has a similar rationale: the width between these elements should be such that a coin can fit freely.
- At the corners, the fastening of the planks is not done end-to-end, since these structural parts of the house have their own elements (corner planks).
Installing vinyl siding on the wall of a house is easy if you carefully follow the recommendations of professionals and have all the necessary materials/tools on hand.
In addition to siding plates, it is necessary to purchase internal and external corners, starting and finishing strips, connecting profiles, and trims. These design elements will help to perform high-quality installation of siding trim in all difficult places home (corners, window frames, doorways, under a roof, etc.).
From the bottom level of the house from the far left corner we begin to erect the siding sheathing:
- The starting strip is attached;
- The first siding panel is attached to the starting strip using the bottom lock;
- The higher rows are secured with the lock of the lower row;
- The design is completed by a finishing strip.
Roof installation
The scheme for performing the work is no different from those described above.:
- Installation of sheathing;
- Installation of the starting rail at a distance of up to 15 cm from the ends of the walls;
- The first panel of siding is laid into this starting strip;
- The siding parts are joined with an overlap of 2 cm. The distance between the fastening strips must be at least 0.5 cm.
Installation of the pediment
The pediment of the house is one of the most striking details of the structure; its appearance catches the eye from afar. Naturally, the design of all siding installation work should be completed with similar finishing of the pediment.
Conveniently, regardless of the type of siding chosen, the dimensions of the panels can be changed: the width is usually not adjusted, but the length and shape of the edge of the panel can be easily cut with a regular carpenter’s knife. The accuracy of the entire structure will be ensured by the types of profiles described above.
- Lathing must be done for the pediment. It consists of the same guides as for the wall of the house.
- The surface of the gable can be covered vertically or horizontally with siding panels. You can use a combined method - the transition from one installation direction to another is possible using an edging profile.
- Work is carried out from the bottom up and ends with a finishing strip. The top panel must be cut at the angle of the roof slope. To do this, it is enough to make a template from a small piece of panel.
How to calculate gable siding? There is a simple installation method: from the center of the pediment. An H-profile should be installed on the central vertical axis, starting strips should be inserted into it and panels should begin to be attached to them in both directions.
Installation of panels
Externally, corrugated siding can be positioned both vertically and horizontally along a wall or other surface. The first siding panel is inserted into the fixed starting strip along the lock. You should hear a click, which means the bar is installed correctly.
Further rows of panels are erected upward, fastened with self-tapping screws to the sheathing, taking into account the above construction technology, and the design is completed by a finishing strip, behind which the outer panel is inserted, bending it slightly.
Rules for installing vinyl siding yourself
Any person can carry out all the work on finishing the facade of a house with siding panels. Cost of work at self-installation, of course, is several times lower than the payment to hired craftsmen. If you follow all the recommendations thoroughly and clearly, then there will be no mistakes, and the appearance of your home will allow you to experience a full sense of pride and joy.
- When installing siding with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions repeatedly focus on the following rule: when attaching the siding panel to the wall with self-tapping screws, it is necessary to leave a distance of 1-2 mm between the head of the screw and the wall.
- This is mandatory, because when temperature changes vinyl material Dock siding panels tend to expand, and when fixed “tightly” to the wall, the panels can simply burst or become significantly deformed.
- It is for this reason that siding work in Russia should be carried out only in the summer (i.e., during the warm season). After all, the polyvinyl chloride material from which vinyl siding panels are made has sufficient linear expansion.
You should pay particular attention to the installation instructions, since even minor deviations from the rules may result in sagging of panels of this type.
Rules for installing metal siding
- Metal siding panels are made of galvanized iron, which means a significant weight of the material. This means that the sheathing for them must be more serious than for vinyl, which will naturally affect the cost of the craftsmen’s work and the cost of building materials for the sheathing.
- Metal siding m2 at Russian manufacturer prices is almost twice as expensive as vinyl siding.
- For metal siding, post-installation work is also important, since the material requires attention to the condition of the paint. This means that the cost of work after installation is also considerable.
Conclusion: it is impossible to clearly determine the good and bad types of siding decoration for the facade of a house, because it depends on individual aspects: the condition of the house, the taste preferences of the owner, the size of his wallet, etc. Only one thing is true: dressing your house in a chic dress from Siding Design is profitable, durable and beautiful!
DIY vinyl siding installation
I would not like to start the article with banal phrases like: the facade is the face of the house and the like. Everyone already knows this, but when faced with the need for finishing, many questions immediately arise, the first of which, of course, is what material to use.
In this article we will talk about how to lay siding with your own hands, and what you can save on without compromising quality.
What is siding
If we talk scientific language builders, then siding is a hinged ventilated facade system. A distinctive feature of all is their installation at a distance from the facade itself. Thanks to this technology, there is always an air gap under the coating, which does not allow condensation to accumulate on the surface.
As a result, if properly treated with antiseptics, mold and harmful fungus will never appear on the walls, which often cause a lot of problems for homeowners. But since our article is not devoted to the material itself, but to the question of how to properly lay siding, we will simply briefly list the advantages and disadvantages.
Advantages over other types of facade finishing
So:
- Covering a house with siding is a very simple process that does not require specific skills and knowledge. Installation can be done easily with your own hands.
- Modern manufacturers produce a whole the lineup siding panels. Today, these are not just horizontal lines, but also imitations of various natural materials.
- The light weight of the entire siding does not require additional reinforcement of the walls and does not create a significant load on them.
- External siding is installed in the shortest possible time and without the involvement of specialists. In principle, all the work can be carried out by one person, and, in extreme cases, the help of one assistant will be needed.
- A facade covered with siding is very easy to care for. He is not at all afraid of water and even strong detergents.
- Thanks to the air gap between the siding and the wall, you can use any type of insulation (see).
- If the facade is damaged, one panel can be replaced, and the rest of the siding will remain intact.
- The final price of the entire siding finish is significantly lower than most popular types of finishes.
Before choosing siding in a store, you need to carefully study the entire assortment presented in stores. This will not be an easy task, so let’s imagine short video in this article, which shows several options appearance siding.
Disadvantages of siding
So:
- The light weight of siding often becomes a disadvantage, since strong winds can simply tear it out of its fastenings.
- Siding is quite easily damaged mechanically; any blow from a hard or sharp object can not only leave a scratch on the panel, but even break it.
- If you don’t take spare segments when purchasing siding, then later, if necessary, replace the damaged area; you simply won’t be able to find the same color or shape.
- Siding, like any plastic product, has, albeit insignificant, thermal deformation. That is, when high temperature in summer, the panels expand. This fact must be taken into account during installation.
Important! When purchasing siding, always purchase 5 to 10 percent more panels than may be needed. This is necessary to cover the defects that often occur during self-installation, and a part should be left in reserve in case you have to change an accidentally damaged area of the finish.
Installation
The axiom of all builders and finishers says: always start repairs by preparing materials and tools, so as not to waste time searching for the right screwdriver or nail.
Our instructions will not violate the postulates, so below is a list of tools that we will need:
- Pencil and tape measure.
- Construction knife with a set of additional blades.
- Electric jigsaw or, as a last resort, a fine-toothed hacksaw.
- Self-tapping screws or nails, depending on what it was decided to make the sheathing from.
- Hammer or screwdriver, again, depending on the material of the sheathing.
- Building level. Of course, ideally, if you have a laser device, which will greatly simplify and speed up the process. But if you don’t have one, then a water level with vertical and horizontal eyes will do.
- Hammer with drill, with a diameter corresponding to the purchased mounting dowels.
Additionally, you may need painting supplies such as a roller and brushes, but this is only if you chose wood to make the sheathing. This material itself is very malleable. high humidity, and besides, bugs really like to grow in it and eat it from the inside.
Therefore, to extend the service life wooden sheathing and improving it quality characteristics, each block must be treated with special impregnations or deep penetration primer.
Interestingly, many professionals do not advise using wood, since a galvanized profile is much more practical in this regard (see). That is why our siding installation instructions will describe metal guides, not wooden ones.
Marking
This stage requires a particularly careful and thoughtful approach, since the quality of the entire finish will depend on it. The fact is that if at the very bottom of the facade you allow a slight distortion of just a few millimeters, then when you reach the top panel, it will be already several centimeters, which is naturally unacceptable.
Therefore, we arm ourselves with a pencil, a tape measure, a level and patience, and go ahead. First of all, it is necessary to calculate the so-called “dead point”. This is the lowest mark from the base, from which all further markings will go.
Having found this point, we draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter of the house. It is this line that will serve as our starting point.
Advice! In order not to have to worry about attaching the first panel, you can fix it around the perimeter of the house wooden beam ok, which will be the support on the horizontal line. You can simply lay the siding on this block and securely fasten it without fear that it will become distorted somewhere.
Now that we have the zero mark ready, we need to find the points from which the vertical guides will go. The distance between them should be at least 20 and no more than 50 centimeters.
The easiest way to do this is to divide the wall exactly in half. Then each segment is cut in half again, and so on until the distance between the nearest points becomes optimal.
From the obtained points we draw strict vertical lines, focusing on building level. It is along these lines that the guide profiles will pass.
Now all that remains is to mark the points for installing guy wires for the profile. The ideal distance between fasteners is 50 centimeters, so we simply put dots through this distance on each line, and our marking is ready, we can move on to the next stage.
Lathing
Covering a house with siding is always carried out on a pre-prepared sheathing, although in some cases it can be abandoned.
For example, if your house is built from aerated concrete blocks, and there are several reasons for this:
- Aerated concrete has increased moisture permeability. Therefore, it can function normally without an additional air gap.
- Aerated concrete blocks are very soft, and ordinary carpenter's nails are easily hammered into them, so there will be no difficulties in attaching the siding directly to the wall.
- In the southern latitudes of our country, houses made of aerated concrete are not insulated at all. The heat capacity of the block itself is sufficient, so there is no need to leave space for tile insulation.
But in all other cases you will have to make a sheathing. In fact, there is nothing complicated here, we just pick up a puncher and a hammer and boldly go into battle.
Our wall already has marks for attaching guy wires, so we just drill holes in the marked places. It is important to correctly calculate the diameter of the drill and the depth of the hole. The dowel should be completely immersed in it and tightly press the metal guy.
If the hole is not deep enough, the dowel will hit the bottom and bend. In this case, it will be very difficult to pull it out. When all the guys are installed, we bend them perpendicular to the wall and attach the profiles to them, not forgetting to frequently check the building level.
An important point at this stage is to install an additional guide under the H-profile, which connects the two siding panels along the length. You need to find a place where it will pass, if of course there is a need for it, and install it, just like the rest of the sheathing elements.
Now you need to check the entire structure for strength. It’s enough just to twitch each profile and calculate the weak points. It is advisable to install additional fasteners here. As a result, we should have a sheathing, as shown in the photo at the beginning of this section.
Siding
If all the previous stages went smoothly and efficiently, then installing the siding will not take much time, and by the way, we can say that this is the easiest stage in the entire finishing process. The easiest way to install siding is with simple horizontal lines. Although, if you have some experience, you can lay it in a herringbone pattern or in a running pattern, but this is a topic for a separate article.
We start laying with, which is slightly different in configuration from the other segments. If you followed the advice and attached a wooden beam horizontally, simply place the panel on it and fasten it with self-tapping screws along each guide.
It is from the starting panel that the next segments will come, which are simply attached to it with grooves at the bottom, and at the top also with self-tapping screws to the guides. There is nothing complicated here, but it is important to remember that the fasteners should not press the panel tightly, since the plastic has thermal deformation.
The self-tapping screw does not tighten completely, leaving a small gap, which allows the siding to expand in the horizontal and vertical directions, while the panel itself hangs tightly on the cap, and the wind cannot tear it off.
After attaching the starting panel, we attach the decorative elements. In this case, these are corners and H-profile. In addition, you need to make a frame for windows and doors (see). The panels themselves simply slide inside decorative elements and are attached with self-tapping screws to the guide profiles.
Now all that remains is to simply add strips of siding to the very top. The only difficulty is the last panel at the top, which will have to be cut along its entire length. The finishing panel completes the finishing, now you can step aside and enjoy the work done.
Now, knowing how to install siding correctly, you can safely get to work, and the main thing here is not to rush and do everything thoroughly and efficiently. After all, repairing a facade is a very labor-intensive task in itself, and redoing the defect will be difficult and costly.