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Homemade boat - projects, drawings. How to build a boat with your own hands

DIY plywood boat, drawings and stages of its construction.

Let's look at the cross-sectional drawing of the presented model:

Breshtuk – wooden beam 114x60 (mm)
frame – plywood 16 (mm) thick
sternpost – plywood 16 (mm) thick
keelson – wooden beam 30x80 (mm)
bottom – plywood 6 (mm) thick
side – plywood 6 (mm) thick
handle – chrome tube with a diameter of 16…20 (mm)
floor – planed board 20x100 (mm)
deck – plywood 6 (mm) thick

A little about the material used:

Structural plywood
two types of sizes: 6x1500x3000 (mm); 16x1525x1525 (mm)
longitudinal arrangement of fibers
quality grade "E"
polished on one side “Ш1” (6х1500х3000)
unpolished “NSh” (16x1525x1525)
classification for moisture exposure “FB” or “BS”

Overall dimensions of a plywood boat

Let's start work with making: a breshtuk; five frames; sternpost; keelson

We will install it on the staple and secure the gap; five frames; sternpost

We insert the keelson into the grooves, having previously lubricated the contact planes with glue, and let the structure dry.

Let's take cardboard and bend it along the plane of the sides and draw the outline of the side.

Let's take cardboard and bend it along the plane of the bottom and draw the outline of the bottom.

After making sure that the contour measurements are accurate, we transfer them to plywood and carefully cut them out. We should get four parts - two left and two right, and the right parts are a mirror image of the left ones.

We start fastening from the bottom.

We use brass or galvanized screws and epoxy glue to secure the parts cut from plywood to the structure frame. After the glue has hardened, smooth out the contour with a sanding machine.

We fasten the sides in the same way.

We fasten the joints of the plywood parts as follows:
1. Drill along the joints, at the same distance, through holes diameter 3 (mm).
2. Insert a nylon cord into the holes.
3. We tighten the parts together.

After the glue has hardened, smooth the contour and joint surfaces with a grinding machine.

From above, by analogy, we will secure the deck. Let's level the joint surfaces.

We will cover all joints with two layers of fiberglass and let it dry.

It won't hurt if you treat the entire body with fiberglass.

We will finish the body and paint it an interesting color.
For structural rigidity, we will strengthen the bottom of the seat wooden blocks at both sides.
We will lay boards on the floor. We will install metal handles on top of the deck.
DIY plywood boat made by:

Before the lovers fishing or simply people living near some body of water sooner or later face the question of purchasing a boat. It can provide not only pleasant boat trips under the gentle sun, but also accessibility to the most catchable places where trophy fish are found. Buying a boat ready for launch is very expensive for many people, but a boat made of plywood, built with your own hands, will cost several times less. And this process itself, interesting and creative, will bring a lot of pleasure.

Let's dispel doubts

After hearing the phrase - a boat made of plywood - some pessimists will twist their finger at their temples and say that this is absolutely impossible. Like, making a real watercraft from thin and straight plywood, and one that can support more than one person, is a utopia. In fact, this is quite possible. Moreover, you can build not just a small punt, but even a real sailing yacht, and if a small boat motor is installed on the reinforced transom, and a cockpit is made on the bow, you will get something like a boat. So what, the boat will work out. And these are not fishing tales.

Plywood comes in different thicknesses and strengths. Cut parts out of it to size and different configurations even easier than from boards. In addition, it bends well enough to give the sides the desired roundness. Modern means to ensure the moisture resistance of a plywood boat is also sufficient. Therefore, for someone who decides to make a boat on their own, only three things are needed: desire, a working head and hands that are not afraid of work. Everything else can be easily found.

Well, the advantages of a plywood boat are simply undeniable:

Light weight. The simplest punt weighs only 15-20 kg.
A well-made boat can last a very long time.
There are boat designs that can easily support up to 5 people.
Cheapness.

Preparations for work

Having set out to build a plywood boat yourself, the first thing you need to do is find an appropriate room in which all the work will be carried out. It should be spacious, dry, with good lighting. Sudden changes in temperature and high humidity are categorically excluded. The entire production will take enough time, which is stupid to waste in the summer, when you can do other things. Therefore, work is usually carried out either in winter or in spring, so the atmosphere in the “production workshop” plays a very important role. Untreated plywood does not tolerate moisture well, but glue and impregnating liquids are applied better and with better quality in warmth. Yes and paint ready product It's also better in the warmth.

The second necessary action is drawing. There should be no problem with this - you can find it on the Internet in just a few minutes. But even purchasing material without it is not worth it.

There is no point in starting work without a quality drawing.

There are different types of homemade plywood boats, and you need to choose a project that you can carry out yourself. If this is your first experience in shipbuilding, then it is best to choose the project of the most ordinary punt. Despite the simplicity of the design, the possibilities it provides are almost unlimited. You can hang a motor on it, and even put a mast. And under the oars she walks just fine.

Having calculated from the drawing what and how much material is needed, you can begin purchasing it.

Material

It is not worth reminding that the material from which the plywood boat will be built must be of high quality. The plywood itself is without knots, the glue is only from a trusted manufacturer, and the impregnating liquids too.

The entire list looks like this:

Sheet plywood 1.5-1.5 m, 5 mm thick, grade BS, BK or FSF.
Several boards, preferably oak.
Fiberglass.
Putty.
Waterproof glue.
Waterproof impregnation for wood or drying oil.
Waterproof enamel or Oil paint.
Self-tapping screws.
Nails.
Copper wire.

When choosing plywood, you need to carefully inspect the edges for chips and cracks at the ends. You shouldn’t hope that you can saw off a couple of centimeters. Everything else can be easily and at a very reasonable price purchased at any hardware or hardware store.

Tool

A good owner, who is accustomed to independently produce certain things in the house renovation work, the set of tools is already there. Even with interest. Directly building a boat will require the following arsenal:

Jigsaw.
Electric planer.
Screwdriver.
A circular saw.
Sander.
Plane.
Hacksaw.
Hammer.
Pliers.
Screwdrivers.
Metal ruler.
Chisel.
Spatulas.
Brushes.
Clamps.
Drawing set.
Graph paper.
Cardboard.

Having prepared everything according to these two lists, you can proceed directly to work.

Power tools will make the job much easier

Let's start drawing

Mark the contours of the boat directly on plywood sheet It would be quite reckless. A small mistake and the vessel will yaw to the side or tilt to one side. Therefore, it is better to first draw a diagram or sketch on graph paper in full size. Moreover, the word diagram is not very appropriate here, because it is necessary to strictly maintain the dimensions.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

A center line is drawn dividing the bottom of the boat lengthwise.
At one end, a transom line is drawn perpendicularly to size.
The installation points of the frames are marked on the center line itself.
At these points, perpendiculars are drawn to suit the size of the frames.
Using patterns, the bottom itself is drawn.
The resulting diagram is folded in half along the center line to check symmetry.

Patterns for the sides, frames and transom are made in the same way, taking into account their sizes and configurations. But the drawing doesn't end there. Now, after the symmetry of the bottom and the sameness of the sides have been carefully checked, the stage of transferring the drawing onto a cardboard template begins. The graph paper is too thin, but it will be much easier to transfer the drawing onto plywood from a cardboard template without errors.

First gluing

If you managed to get sheet plywood that matches the length of the future boat, that’s good. But if you have ordinary sheets of 1.5-1.5 meters, you will have to glue them together. Most The best way– gluing with a mustache.

Mustache gluing is the strongest connection between plywood sheets

A distance equal to 10-12 sheet thicknesses is retreated from the edge of the sheet, and ground off at an angle with a plane. After this, you need to go through the sander and do the same operations with the second sheet. Peeled and degreased surfaces smeared with glue, carefully connected and fastened with clamps. Since clamps can only be placed at the edges, a weight must be placed in the center. After the glue has dried, the clamps can be removed, but let the product sit for at least another day.

Cutting out parts

After the glue has dried and all burrs and smudges at the gluing site have been removed, you can transfer the dimensions of the bottom and sides using cardboard templates. During this simple process, you should ensure that there are no allowances even of a couple of millimeters. Especially on different sides.

Then a jigsaw with a small-toothed file tucked into it is used. Large ones can clutter the cutting edge. But even after a small one, it’s better to carefully go through it with medium-sized sandpaper. You need to cut carefully, without rushing. One wrong movement, the slightest deviation from the drawn line - and in best case scenario you will have to go back a few centimeters, in the worst case, start this part from the very beginning. That is, from drawing a new one.

You can draw and cut frames right away in full size. But you'll have to think about the transom. If intended powerboat, then it needs to be strengthened. There are two options. One is to cut several identical parts from plywood and glue them together. Or make a transom from a solid board with a thickness of at least 25 mm.

Let's start collecting

The boat is assembled using the “sew and glue” principle. It’s better to start with the transom - then it will be easier to install the sides. Holes of such a diameter are drilled in the rear of the bottom and in the lower part of the transom that the copper wire can pass through. The holes must be strictly opposite each other. Using pieces of wire, the transom is attached to the bottom. After making sure that the edges match, you need to tighten the twists of the wire with pliers.

Instead of copper wire, you can take a wire of suitable diameter

The sides are attached in a similar way, starting from the stern and ending with the last twist at the bow of the boat. At this point, the result is a collapsible model, which can still be corrected. Trim excess, smooth out uneven areas. After the next operation, you can forget about dismountable tactics.

Second gluing

Or rather, gluing the seams between the bottom, sides and transom in order not only to secure the parts, but also to ensure moisture resistance. A strip of fiberglass is carefully laid on the seam and carefully coated moisture-resistant glue. In this case, one layer is not enough. You will need at least three. And if the first layer of fiberglass is approximately 100 mm, that is, 50 on each side, then the second and third layers should be wider. 125-135 mm. it will be just right, only each subsequent layer needs to be shifted a little - one towards the bottom, the other, on the contrary, towards the side. This is done so that the fiberglass comes into contact and sticks directly to the plywood. After the glue dries properly, this folding gasket will turn into almost real plastic, and this will guarantee that the boat is moisture resistant.

Installation of frames

The frames are installed strictly in place on adhesive base and screwed with self-tapping screws. After the glue has dried, the screws are unscrewed, and the holes left by them are filled with the same glue. If nails are used instead of self-tapping screws, then after pulling them out, you need to hammer wooden nails and coat with glue.

Final imparting moisture resistance

This completes the construction of the boat. What remains is internal and exterior decoration, serving not only for aesthetics, but also to ensure that the boat does not leak. Regular wooden boats they will resin, but what to impregnate a plywood boat with - there is a very specific answer to this question. On the outside, all seams and the entire body are treated with fiberglass and glue, in the same way as was done when gluing the parts. Before this operation, the protruding wire should be removed or cut off. The inside of the plywood boat is impregnated with hot drying oil.

When covering a boat with fiberglass, you must carefully ensure that there are no bubbles.

Painting

At this point, the construction of the plywood boat can be considered complete. It will take some time to dry, and by and large you can already swim on it. On oars, with the help of an engine, if you tried to make the transom for a motor, or even under a sail, if this is provided for by the design. It is already completely waterproof, but absolutely not aesthetically pleasing. Painting is the very last stage, and then the production of the boat will be completed completely.

There are two options here. Or oil paint - the color is chosen according to taste - for fishing, something merging with nature, for walking, it can be brighter. Or waterproof enamel, selected according to the same principle. You'll have to wait a little longer until the paint or enamel dries - and you can safely set sail.

Main

Before you start building a plywood boat yourself, you need to understand that such homemade products do not tolerate careless approach to the matter. This may affect not only appearance products, but also on your own safety and reliability. The first thing you need to pay attention to Special attention, is the room in which the work will be carried out. If it was decided to build a boat in winter or in early spring, then you need to exclude drafts and high humidity.

The second thing you need to pay special attention to is the material and tools. Plywood must be selected without knots, glue, paint and drying oil only from a trusted manufacturer. The instrument must be in perfect order. The jigsaw is equipped with a file with small teeth.

If you are planning a motor boat, special attention should be paid to the transom. To make it, it is better to take a solid oak board. Plywood glued together in several layers will also work, but the board will be more reliable.

You should also strictly monitor the symmetry of the bottom and the uniformity of the sides. Incorrect bending of one side on a boat or on a dinghy, depending on what is being built, will lead to the fact that it will scour the water or pull to one side.

And lastly: there is no need to rush under any circumstances. If the instructions for the glue indicate that it should dry for three days, then further work should only be started on the fourth. The same principles apply with paint and drying oil.

Building a plywood boat yourself is not an easy task. But there’s nothing particularly complicated about it. You just need to spend some time and apply maximum knowledge and skills, which can be easily gleaned both on the Internet and from more knowledgeable people. But after completing this interesting and creative work you will be able to safely go to the reservoir on a unique watercraft built with your own hands.

Many people, especially avid fishermen, want to have a good boat, but not everyone has the opportunity to purchase one. So the question arises: how to make a boat with your own hands? To those who consider such a task impossible, we immediately answer that this is not so. The main thing is to put in effort and effort.

Boat made of planks

When thinking about how to make a boat, you first need to decide on the wood. Alder, willow or spruce are perfect for this, but, as folk craftsmen say, no better boats made from simple pine boards. Maybe such a boat is a little heavy, but resinous tree practically does not rot.

Moreover, it is not necessary to paint it. Craftsmen believe that under a layer of paint the wood steams and rots. It is enough to saturate the boards, and used motor oil is suitable for this.

Wood preparation

At the sawmill, cut the boards to a thickness of 30 mm. After this, they need to be planed to a thickness of 25 mm. This will be quite enough. Moreover, they are planed only on the side that will be inside the boat.

Those who are not entirely sure how to make a boat should know that the length of the boards will be the length of the hull. You must choose it at your own discretion. It can be from 4 to 6 m.

When making a boat, take into account the fact that the wider the boards, the fewer gaps there will be in the boat, and this, accordingly, will reduce potential leaks. When connecting and bending boards, there will be gaps in any case, which is why they must be caulked immediately. To do this, use moss or a construction rope, and then additionally coat it with silicone.

Fastening all elements of the boat

If previously boards were fastened together with nails, now they have been replaced by self-tapping screws, which makes it possible to do this reliably and quickly.

When thinking about how to make a boat, do not forget about the shape of the sides. They can be either inclined or vertical. Although the latter are easier to manufacture, the navigability of the boat deteriorates as a result. That's why many people prefer to bend them. This is not to say that this is easy to do, but it is absolutely possible. The main thing is to know which devices to use for this purpose. It is good to do this with the help of special clamps, and you need to bend it slowly, gradually increasing the load. The boards must be periodically moistened with water. This gives them flexibility.

For greater reliability, the boat is equipped with stiffeners. They are usually made from oak boards. It is also used to create a pointed bow for the boat. Boards of the sides and bottom are inserted into it, and into special grooves. Self-tapping screws are not used for fastening here.

When deciding how to make a boat, you should immediately estimate the width of the front and stern. Usually in the bow the width reaches 80 cm, and in the stern area it decreases to 30-40 cm. In this case, it is better to make the sides no more than 40 cm high.

This shape of the boat makes it possible to easily steer it from the stern using one oar.

Rubber boat

Many fishermen prefer to use inflatable rubber boats for fishing. They have a number of advantages over wooden ones - they are compact and weigh little (no more than 6 kg), and if treated with care they last a very long time.

Those who do not have the opportunity to buy a factory-made boat are thinking about how to make a rubber boat themselves. If you have certain skills, this is a completely solvable problem.

Necessary materials

The best material for making rubber boat‒ rubberized BCC fabric. It is used to produce military personal protective equipment. It is very thin, light, durable, does not rot and is rubberized on both sides.

To sew the main elements of the boat, use nylon thread (No. 30). Sew them on sewing machine. To fasten the elements, rubber glue 4508 with natural rubber is used.

Manufacturing process

The drawings of a rubber boat are taken as a basis.
From thick cardboard cut out patterns for the elements of the boat.
On big table Lay the fabric face down, place the patterns of the parts on it and trace them, and make a seam allowance of 1 cm.
The finished parts of the boat are first baited with nylon thread, and then stitched on a machine.
Then cut strips of fabric 50 mm wide and glue them on top of all the seams.
In this way, the bow and stern parts, as well as the side cylinders, are assembled.
After assembling the entire structure, an inflation valve is installed. For it, you can use a small piece of rubber hose or buy a ready-made factory-made one.
Then they move on to making the bottom. To do this, inflate the already made boat cylinder. A cloth is spread on the floor, a balloon is placed on top and a circle is drawn around it.
For the bottom you need to make two patterns. They are glued together and the resulting double bottom is glued to the bottom of the boat.

Such brief instructions gives general concept, how to make a boat yourself, as well as decide on materials and scope of work. We hope that our advice will be useful to you, and you special effort you can make a boat yourself.

The development and appearance of such unusual project due to the widespread interest of sailing enthusiasts in maritime antiquities. A small and shallow-draft (draft 1.5 m), but quite seaworthy cruising yacht, designed for long-distance voyages with a crew of 8-9 people, has been given some features characteristic of sailing ships of the XVIII - early XIX century - the heyday of the sailing fleet. At the same time, the project provides for the use modern materials and hull design, as well as technological techniques used today...

The vessel's mast was designed taking into account the main features of shipbuilding from the times of the sailing fleet: the “classical” proportions and principles of armament were preserved. In the old days, masts of small ships were most often made in one piece or assembled from well-fitted parts - pieces held together from the outside with vulings (tied with a strong cable) every 800-1000 mm...

For some time now, operations with the 48-kilogram “Whirlwind” have become difficult for me - carrying it from the storage place to the boat, attaching it to the transom, removing it from the boat, etc. A dream appeared about a leisurely displacement boat with an economical inboard engine, with a cabin , which would protect from rain and wind. This is how the boat shown in the photo and sketch appeared, equipped with a four-stroke air-cooled UD-25 carburetor engine...

Homemade plywood boat (master class, photo, step by step)

Now we've gotten around to making it happen old dream, began to build a boat. For the first time I chose easy project, well, for training, so to speak. I went to the production of similar boats in Cherepovets and there I spied something and bought the missing materials, for which special thanks to the owner of the shipyard.

This is what the boat should look like:

Today I cut out sheets of plywood and began the most important and difficult process, in my opinion, which is cutting and gluing sheets of plywood. Because the boat is longer than standard sheets plywood, then they have to be spliced; there are many ways to do this, but I chose the most technically complex, but also more aesthetic option of miter gluing.

Let's mark it.

We process the plywood sheets first with a plane and then with a sander.

This is what it looks like during processing.

This is how the sheets should fit and stick together.

After adjusting the parts, I glued them together and placed them under the press.

That's all for now preparatory work along the boat, after the sheets are glued together I will start marking and cutting out the parts.

At first I practiced miter joints on scraps of plywood and it was scary to look at, but experience came from working on the “finish” version :) I hope I can continue to master everything.

That's about the boat.

Basic data:

Maximum length............2.64 m
Maximum width............1.28 m
Side height...........................0.38 m
Body weight........................30 kg
Load capacity...................180 kg
Crew...................................2 people
Permissible power p/motor...2.5 hp

Today was a day of fruitful work and great progress :)

He pulled the sheets out from under the press and removed the strips between which they were sandwiched. The joint turned out to be smooth and very strong (then we tried to break the scraps from the bottom, but it did not break at the joint of the sheets). In this way we obtained blanks of the required length for making the boat.

I start marking by marking the center line, from which all the dimensions will then go.

Here I drew the bottom of the boat, it looks like it turned out beautifully:

I start cutting. It is advisable to take the jigsaw from high speed, use files for shaped cutting of plywood so as not to tear the edges of the sheets.

We follow the markings strictly :)

Half of the bottom is ready.

And here is the bottom in its entirety :)

We mark one side, then we put two blanks on top of each other and fasten them with clamps, after which we cut out both sides at once.

I mark and cut out the transom.

At the joints of the plywood sheets, we remove the chamfer with a grinder and begin sewing the boat with copper wire clips.

We carry out work from stern to bow.

You can't do this without an assistant.

I also try hard to sew everything beautifully :)

These are the seams you get.

Here the boat is ready :)

Try it on for yourself :)

And upside down.

Today we have really moved towards the final stage of completing the project :)
The first thing I did was pull all the staples tighter. I checked the geometry of the boat. Then I used a chisel to edge the staples onto internal joints sides After all this, I cut out temporary spacers and secured them in the places where the frames were installed.

While doing these things in the new room, I constantly felt eyes on me. By the way, here is a view of the straightened boat from the stern.

For a more even formation of the seams, I decided to fill the lines masking tape Looks like it turned out beautifully.

I decided to glue it in the evening, but in the meantime I drew out the frame templates and began assembling them.

Here are the finished frames, assembled using epoxy glue and self-tapping screws.

I finally started gluing the internal seams, I didn’t think it was like this painstaking work:) For the first time, everything seemed to work out great. The resin has saturated the fiberglass fabric normally, there are no bubbles anywhere.

This is how the seam turns out, smooth and transparent. The photo shows that the structure of the wood is visible through three layers of glass tape, which means everything is normal.

Here's what was done last time: the frames were adjusted and the fenders were screwed on.

Today I installed the frames in place and secured them with glue and screws, and cut out reinforcing linings for the transom.

After that, I turned the boat over, removed all the staples from the wire and began rounding the seam joints.

And now that everything was prepared, I started gluing the external seams.

The seams turned out smooth and well saturated, even I like it myself.

Seams on the transom.

Today I finished shaping the boat’s hull, next time I’ll install the benches and start preparing for painting.

The sides are fastened not only with glue, but also reinforced with three layers of glass tape on each side, this turns out to be fiberglass. The self-tapping screws from the frames can be completely removed; after gluing, they will no longer be needed. By the way, some people do just that. Such a boat can be assembled without a single screw in the hull.

Today I went to make a boat only in the evening, because... I waited for the glue to set well. I checked the external seams, I really liked how it was done, it turned out to be strong fiberglass. After that I decided to make slats for the benches. I also cut out and fitted the stem to the bow of the boat.

Here are the slats of the front bench attached.

Here is the middle bench.

I also cut slats for the rear bench, but it’s too early to install them.

Apparently prolonging the pleasure of the process, or maybe out of a desire to do everything efficiently, I’m making the boat slowly and little by little :)
Today I bought glue, screws and high-quality lumber without knots. All this was intended to install the keel and outer stringers. These necessary elements They will give greater strength to the bottom, and also protect the boat during mooring to the shore, and protect the paintwork from scratches.

I cut out the slats, sanded them and installed them in place using glue and screws.

Also today I installed a stem and a bow eye bolt for tying a rope or anchor rope.

Work had to be stopped for today because... the whole thing should be firmly grasped; for this I used additional weights.

By the way, the bench blanks have already been cut out, but they will be installed after painting the inside of the boat.