EntranceInsulation of the ceiling from the inside in a private house. Ceiling insulation technology in a private house
If you want to live in a cozy, warm, comfortable home, and also save on heating it, you should definitely purchase and install high-quality insulation for the ceiling. Due to the fact that warm air is lighter than cool air, it tends to rise to the ceiling. And if the ceiling is not insulated, then this warm air will simply disappear from the home, and a cold atmosphere will reign in it, which will certainly cause discomfort and unpleasant sensations to the residents. That is why the issue of ceiling insulation is very acute.
Shot from the process of laying insulation
Today the construction market offers a wide variety of materials for ceiling insulation from various manufacturers. This includes rolled ceiling insulation from the well-known company Knauf, thermal insulation materials Parok, Rockwool, etc. The choice is really great and you can even get confused, but there are certain criteria that the purchased insulation must meet:
- It must be completely safe for human health and not emit harmful substances;
- It should not support combustion, so that in the event of a fire, the fire does not spread throughout the house;
- It should eliminate heat leakage, but at the same time not block the natural circulation of steam in the room.
The question of which insulation to choose in order to ensure thermal insulation of the ceiling of a house worries many. Let's take a closer look at the materials that construction stores offer customers today. Traditional solutions are:
- Expanded clay. This is a lightweight, bulk material that is made from clay and other components. Its advantages include non-flammability, good thermal insulation qualities and low susceptibility to moisture. Mice and other pests do not grow in this material.
Thermal insulation using expanded clay is a worthy solution
- Mineral wool. It is a very popular solution; in particular, buyers often prefer rolled ceiling insulation from the Ursa company, which has proven the quality of its products. The popularity of mineral wool insulation is explained by its compliance with the entire list of requirements for thermal insulation materials. Mineral wool does not interfere with vapor permeability, does not burn, and has attractive thermal conductivity and sound insulation characteristics. In addition to this, to positive aspects mineral wool refers to its durability, wear resistance and excellent water-repellent properties.
- Fiberglass . Insulation materials made from fiberglass can also boast a fairly high demand. Fiberglass is right for you if you are looking for the best insulation to purchase for the ceiling of a bathhouse, house or apartment. As for its advantages, it is excellent sound insulation and lightness. However, fiberglass demonstrates less resistance to temperature influences and moisture (additional care will need to be taken of a special water-repellent coating).
Fiberglass also has its advantages
Modern thermal insulation materials for ceilings
The insulation materials discussed above have proven themselves to be excellent, but today new generation materials have begun to appear on the market, which also have an impressive list of advantages - polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, and penofol. They are all produced in a similar way - by foaming polymers due to temperature or chemical effects. By the way, these and other insulation materials can be with foil - this provides even greater protection for the ceiling (foil prevents burning, protects against moisture, and provides even higher thermal insulation qualities).
The main rivals to traditional insulation are heat insulators made from extruded polystyrene foam. Its advantages are lightness, low cost and low thermal conductivity. There are also disadvantages - poor vapor permeability characteristics (in addition, the issue of ventilation will need to be resolved) and poor compatibility with ceilings with complex configurations. But if we talk about flat, simple and usable structures, then this material will serve good choice, because it is famous for its increased mechanical strength.
There are other insulation materials worthy of attention.
For example, ecowool which is made from cellulose. It is considered an absolutely harmless material to human health, characterized by low thermal conductivity. Or penoizol, representing polymer material, the main advantage of which is durability. It is impossible not to say about polystyrene foam– this material is not susceptible to moisture, lightweight and fireproof. In addition, it is easy to use, just like the basalite roll insulation intended for ceilings.
The service life of penoizol is practically unlimited
How to choose the optimal insulation?
A good ceiling insulation must meet the following requirements: low water absorption (so that water does not accumulate in the thermal insulation coating) and acceptable vapor permeability (the material must “breathe”, otherwise you will be faced with the need for ventilation). Also important point is the thermal conductivity of the product. Preference should be given to an insulator with the lowest thermal conductivity, since the lower it is, the less heat will leave your home.
Homeowners often make a grave mistake - when purchasing thermal insulation products, they base their choice on compliance with only one criterion (for example, they select a material based on thermal conductivity, without checking its environmental friendliness, moisture-repellent properties, vapor permeability, etc.). This approach can cause many problems in the future, so you should not engage in such things.
I would also like to say about important qualities insulation from the point of view of its further use. These include:
- Installation conditions;
- Elasticity, flexibility (the ability of a heat insulator to deform and restore its original shape);
- Compressive strength (how susceptible a material is to external loads).
- Thermal conductivity.
If you want to purchase and install insulation for the ceiling in a wooden house or any other buildings, also take into account the type of roof - by the way, you can find a video of proper installation on the Internet. Roofs are divided into flat and pitched, as well as exploitable and non-exploitable. Different insulation materials are suitable for different types of roofing. When purchasing, do not forget about this significant point.
The process of insulating the ceiling - how is it done?
This is how the material is installed from the side of the hill
If you need to insulate the ceiling in a private house, then most often this is done through the attic, since this is the simplest solution in this case. The attic floor is insulated and it's done. This is much easier than going the other way - insulating the ceiling from the inside. As a rule, for these purposes it is used expanded clay.
Such thermal insulation is carried out in several stages:
- They make a vapor barrier using foil (sometimes they use glassine);
- Crumpled clay is evenly placed on the foil;
- Expanded clay is poured into the next layer (the height of the layer should be approximately 15 cm);
- The final layer for this “sandwich” is a cement-sand screed.
If in the future you plan to use the attic for your own purposes, and you will have to walk on the thermal insulation, then the insulation must be covered with boards.
If necessary, insulate the ceiling in the apartment, installation of heat insulating material is carried out in a completely different way - due to the absence of a hill, all work is carried out from inside the room. First, the supporting structure to secure the insulation - a profile - is assembled and installed. After this, waterproofing is done with glassine and thermal insulation material is laid.
Insulation of the ceiling from inside the room
Residents should care not only about how to choose high-quality insulation for ceiling insulation, but also about how to properly carry out the insulation procedure. After all, a lot depends on this, and installation errors can lead to not entirely pleasant consequences. If you are not confident in your abilities and have never been involved in construction work before, then it is better to entrust the insulation process to professionals.
Video:
Ceiling insulation with sawdust
Ceiling insulation in a private house
According to the laws of physics, the air heated in the room rises to the ceiling, and if the attic floor has insufficient insulation, then the heat goes outside - this process is called heat loss. In order not to “heat” the street and retain as much heat as possible in the house, it is necessary to thermally insulate the ceiling. You should know that from 25 to 40% of heat can escape through the ceiling and roof. It is especially important to take this into account if the house has a “cold” roof.
How to properly insulate a ceiling cold roof- it’s best to think about it in advance, during the process of building a house, but sometimes this has to be done in an already erected building.
Floor insulation performs not one, but three functions at once, necessary for a comfortable microclimate in the house:
- The insulating material is also an excellent sound insulator, so it will keep the house quiet during heavy rain and wind.
- In winter, the material retains heat in the rooms, since rising to the ceiling and not finding “bridges” for free exit, it falls back down, remaining indoors.
- In the summer heat, insulation prevents heated air from entering the rooms from the outside, so they will remain cool.
There are many materials and ways to use them to make the ceiling of a house thermally insulated. To choose the one that is suitable in terms of installation complexity and financial costs, you need to consider several of them.
When choosing insulation, you need to pay special attention to the following criteria:
- Thermal conductivity. The lower this parameter is, the better.
- Moisture resistance is especially important for insulation that will be installed from the attic.
- The flammability of the material must be low or the material must be completely non-flammable.
- Long life of insulation.
- Environmentally friendly raw materials and binders from which the heat insulator is made.
There are also individual parameters for each of the materials, which will be characterized when considering insulation materials in the future.
For insulating the ceiling and everything attic floor usually used:
- Mineral wool (basalt and glass), produced in rolls and mats.
- Sawdust and small shavings.
- Ecowool, which is made from cellulose.
- Extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam.
- Polyurethane foam or penoizol.
In addition to the above insulation materials, traditionally dry leaves and straw have always been used to insulate the ceiling. It must be said that even today some craftsmen are in no hurry to abandon them, but their installation requires knowledge of technology, since this natural material itself is not moisture resistant and not durable.
All insulation materials used to insulate the ceiling are light in weight, since they should not weigh down the ceiling structure.
The table below shows some characteristics of popular insulation materials:
| Material parameters | Materials | Thickness, mm | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 50 | 60 | 80 | 100 | 120 | 150 | 200 | 250 | ||
| Density, kg/m³ | Mineral wool | 100-120 | |||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 25-35 | ||||||||
| Polyurethane foam | 54-55 | ||||||||
| Thermal resistance, W/(m²×°K) | Mineral wool | 1.19 | 1.43 | 1.9 | 2.38 | 2.86 | 3.57 | 4.76 | 5.95 |
| Expanded polystyrene | 1.35 | 1.62 | 2.16 | 2.7 | 3.24 | 4.05 | 5.41 | 6.76 | |
| Polyurethane foam | 1.85 | 2.22 | 2.96 | 3.7 | 4.44 | 5.56 | 7.41 | 9.26 | |
| Mineral wool | 0,038-0,052 | ||||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 0,036 | ||||||||
| Polyurethane foam | 0,027 | ||||||||
Mineral wool
Mineral wool can be called the most popular material for ceiling insulation. It is used for installation from the side of the attic and rooms, since its characteristics are well suited for these works.
Mineral wool is produced from various raw materials - blast furnace slag, broken glass and sand, as well as basalt rocks.
- Slag
It should be noted right away that material made from blast furnace slag (slag wool) is poorly suited for insulating a residential building. There may be increased humidity in the attic, especially in spring and autumn, and it is very hygroscopic, which significantly reduces its thermal insulation qualities. The residual acidity of the material has a very negative effect on other building materials, especially ferrous metals.
Slag - in conditions residential construction of little use
Slag wool has coarse and brittle fibers, so it is not recommended for use in residential premises, since their small particles can become suspended in the air.
Its only advantage is its low price compared to other types.
- Glass wool.
This insulation is made from molten glass mass from which thin fibers are drawn. Next, they are formed into webs, rolled into rolls or cut into individual mats. Glass wool has a lower thermal conductivity than slag and basalt insulation, and the moisture absorption of this material is 0.55÷0.8 kg/m².
Glass wool is used to insulate attic floors in buildings built from different materials, often in combination with other heat insulators. However, it should only be used for installation from the side attic space, since its fibers, like those of slag wool, are fragile and brittle, can cause irritation of the skin and mucous membranes, so it is undesirable for them to enter residential premises.
- Basalt wool.
Basalt insulation is made from gabbro-basalt rocks and is the best option for insulating the ceiling on the side of the rooms from all “brothers”. The fibers are more flexible and therefore less brittle. They are tightly compressed into mats that have fairly good strength. The material withstands external factors well, so it is suitable for installation from the attic side. Insulation can be sold in rolls or slabs of different densities.
The optimal choice among all mineral wools is basalt
Basalt wool can have a foil layer, which when correct installation will enhance the insulating effect by reflecting heat into the room.
A common drawback for all types of mineral wool is their binder, consisting of phenol-formaldehyde resins, which will constantly be released into the air, which is quite dangerous for the health of the residents of the house. Therefore, this insulation cannot be considered completely environmentally friendly.
Expanded clay
Expanded clay is an environmentally friendly material, as it is made from natural clay, so it is perfect for insulating attic floors. It is not flammable and does not emit harmful substances when heated. A mound of it can have different densities, since expanded clay is produced in different fractions, and the smaller the size of the grains or granules, the higher the density and lower insulating qualities.
| Fraction, mm | Bulk density, kg/m³ | Bulk density, kg/m³ | Compressive strength, MPa |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1-4 | 400 | 800-1200 | 2,0-3,0 |
| 4-10 | 335-350 | 550-800 | 1,2-1,4 |
| 10-30 | 200-250 | 450-650 | 0,9-1,1 |
In order to insulate the ceiling, the most optimal choice there will be expanded clay with a granule size of 4-10 mm.
Expanded clay does not generate dust and does not cause allergic reactions. The insulation has long term operation and does not lose its original qualities throughout the entire period of use.
The material is highly heat-resistant, so it is often used to separate the chimney from the wooden ceiling by filling it into a metal passage box arranged around the pipe.
The table below shows the comparative characteristics of two environmentally friendly materials - expanded clay and ecowool, which will now be discussed.
| Material parameters | Expanded clay gravel | Ecowool (cellulose) |
|---|---|---|
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m×°K) | 0,11-0,16 | 0,038-0,041 |
| Density, kg/m³ | 200-400 | 42-75 |
| Density of connection to the structure | Depending on the faction: - 15-20 mm - presence of voids; - 5-10 mm - tight fit. | Tight fit, seals all cracks and cracks well |
| Vapor permeability mg/Pa×m×h | 0,30 | 0,67 |
| Chemical inertness | neutral | |
| Flammability | incombustible | G1-G2 (weak flammable material, because treated with fire retardants |
| Moisture absorption,% by weight | 10-25 | 14-16 |
Ecowool
This insulation is not as popular as mineral wool or polystyrene foam, but it is increasingly used to insulate the floors and walls of private houses. Ecowool consists of small cellulose fibers, and it is laid using a “wet” or “dry” method.
One of the most promising insulation materials is ecowool.
- The “dry” method involves scattering, distributing and compacting the insulation between the floor beams or joists attached to them.
- For installation using the “wet” method, special equipment is required, where the fibers are mixed with adhesive composition, and wet ecowool under pressure is fed through a special pipe and distributed over the surface.
Advantages of the material:
- Ecowool can be laid in a layer of any thickness, since it has very little weight even when compacted, and will not weigh down the attic floor. Thanks to its “airiness”, it will perfectly insulate the ceiling.
- This insulation consists of environmentally friendly materials and does not release toxic substances into the premises.
- Ecowool has the quality of “preserving” surfaces, preventing the formation of mold or other types of microflora.
- The heat insulator has a long service life and does not lose its qualities throughout the entire time.
- If necessary, the layer can be supplemented and compacted. Laying the material is carried out quite quickly, especially if special equipment is used for it.
- Ecowool is a slightly flammable and self-extinguishing insulation material, as it is treated with fire retardants during production. It does not produce much smoke and does not emit hazardous combustion products.
- Forming a seamless and airtight coating, the insulation provides good protection from both cold and heat.
- It is important that cellulose wool is a “breathable” material, so it will not retain moisture.
The payback period for such insulation will be two to three years, depending on the installation method and the thickness of the applied layer.
Expanded polystyrene
Foam plastic has been used for insulation work for more than half a century, and during this time it has shown both its positive qualities and numerous disadvantages. But, despite the latter, it continues to be used because it is easy to install and has an affordable price.
Polystyrene foam is most often used in combination with polyurethane foam, which seals the insulating coating.
TO negative qualities Styrofoam refers to its flammability with melting and large amounts of poisonous toxic smoke. Therefore, in some Western countries polystyrene foam is completely prohibited for use in construction. It is being replaced with extruded polystyrene foam, since this material, manufactured without disrupting technological processes, is slightly flammable and self-extinguishing. However, EPS also has increased toxicity in a fire, and its use at home should be treated with a certain bias.
Polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam is a sprayable material, so its application cannot take place without special equipment. If necessary, it can be sprayed in several layers, so it is often used to insulate houses located in the harshest conditions. climatic zones.
When applied, polyurethane foam fills all, even the smallest, cracks, cracks and voids and, expanding, forms a seamless sealed coating. The frozen layer has a high density - you can walk on it, and no dents or cracks will appear on it. Thermal conductivity is only 0.027 W/mK and water absorption is no more than 0.2% of its total volume - this means that its heat-insulating qualities are maintained at any ambient humidity.
Once cured, excess material that may rise above the floor joists can be easily removed with a sharp knife, making the material easy to fit to the overall surface plane of the attic floor.
Another advantage of polyurethane foam is the fact that it does not require auxiliary hydro- and vapor barrier materials, since it initially already has similar qualities.
Video: review of modern insulation materials
Sawdust
Relatively inexpensive material For ceiling insulation you can call sawdust and small shavings. Typically, these lumber are used in combination, since the shavings create the porous part of the insulation, and the sawdust layer makes it denser.
This insulation has been used for a long time and has not lost its popularity, since its main advantage over modern heat insulators is 100% environmental friendliness and naturalness.
If shavings and sawdust are correctly laid on the ceiling, they will perfectly insulate the ceiling, but for the material to be effective, you need to accurately calculate the thickness of the layer being laid depending on the winter temperatures of a particular region.
Table of sawdust layer thickness depending on winter temperatures:
Sawdust and shavings can be used for insulation in their pure form, as well as in combination with other materials. Sometimes pellets made from small sawdust molded into granules are used as insulation.
The disadvantage of sawdust is its flammability. Therefore, it is recommended to mix them with fire retardant compounds, clay or cement mortar before filling them into the ceiling. After this treatment, the insulation becomes completely non-flammable or slightly flammable.
If you plan to insulate the ceiling using sawdust, then everything wooden elements It is prudent to treat the ceilings with fire retardants and separate them from the chimney, and insulate the electrical cables using special corrugated tubes.
In addition to sawdust and shavings, folk craftsmen have long used other natural insulation materials. The parameters of some of them are presented in the table:
| Natural insulation material | Material weight kg/m3 | Coefficient of thermal conductivity |
|---|---|---|
| Tow | 180 | 0,037-0,041 |
| cotton wool | 80 | 0,037 |
| Different felts | - | 0,031-0,050 |
| The fire is different | 150-350 | 0,04-0,065 |
| Moss | 135 | 0,04 |
| Sphagnum peat | 150 | 0,05-0,07 |
| Needles | 430 | 0,08 |
| Chopped straw stuffed | 120 | 0,04 |
| Straw mats | - | 0,05-0,06 |
| Fine wood shavings in packing | 140-300 | 0,05-1,0 |
| Dry leaves | - | 0,05-0,06 |
| Wood sawdust | 190-250 | 0,05-0,08 |
How to find out the required thickness of ceiling insulation - calculation calculator
To determine the minimum thickness of the insulating layer that will provide the required resistance to heat transfer from the ceiling above a cold attic, you can carry out an independent calculation. In order not to bore the reader with long formulas, we suggest using a calculation algorithm using the built-in calculator.
The procedure is as follows:
- Sketch out a diagram of the ceiling - it will be easier to work with. Indicate the material and thickness of all existing and planned layers forming the ceiling.
Just to give an example - a few possible options schemes
There can be many options here. Just as an example, several diagrams are shown in the figure:
If planned boardwalks or hemming, this means tightly fitted boards with caulked cracks.
- Using the map below, determine the required heat transfer resistance value for your region of residence. The value “for floors” is taken - blue numbers.
- You can proceed to the calculations.
If there is no layer on your diagram, then leave the field blank (thickness = 0).
The calculator allows you to “play” with insulation – it will clearly show how the thickness of the layer will change depending on the selected thermal insulation material.
More and more city residents prefer to have individual housing or at least a country house, in which they can live not only during active work on the site, but during the rest of the year. The choice of materials for construction is quite large, but many people choose traditional wood. Insulating the ceiling, floor and walls in a wooden house can make it very warm.
Wood itself retains heat very well, which is why wooden log houses with sufficient thickness of the walls and modern windows, they are quite warm. However, you should not think that no additional insulation will be required anymore. The greatest heat loss occurs not through walls, windows or doors, but often through the ceiling. After all, according to the laws of physics, heated air rises.
And the temperature in the house depends on how correctly and efficiently it is done. Don’t forget about sound insulation, which will add comfort to your stay. Let's consider the main types of existing thermal insulation materials. Any insulation must perform the following functions:
- be fireproof;
- do not harm health;
- have little weight;
- have low thermal conductivity and moisture resistance.
The choice of insulation materials is currently quite diverse. Based on their appearance, they are divided into bulk, liquid, tile, roll, block, brick, etc. Based on their composition, they can be classified into inorganic, organic, artificial (polymer) and combined.
Organic insulation materials include sawdust, hay, straw, peat, as well as mixtures made by builders based on cement and these materials. Environmental friendliness, low thermal conductivity, low cost and many years, and sometimes centuries-old experience of use still make them popular in private construction. The main danger is the easy flammability of organic matter; a decrease in thermal insulation qualities over time is also possible. Therefore, work to maintain ceilings in proper condition will have to be carried out much more often than when using more modern types of insulation.
Inorganic ones include expanded clay made from processed clay, expanded vermiculite and perlite, which are obtained by firing rocks of the same name, foam glass, cellular glass obtained by melting ordinary glass waste with coal dust, and mineral wool. Of the above bulk materials, the most popular and in demand is expanded clay, which at a fairly low cost has a thermal conductivity of about 0.1 W/mK.
The only drawback will be its heavy weight, since the optimal layer this insulation should be from 200 to 400 kg per 1 m 3.
Therefore, it is advisable to use it where the ceiling is made of large and thick beams with a continuous roll. If the price issue does not concern you, then the best heat retention properties are inherent in cellular glass, made in the form of individual blocks, a very light and environmentally friendly material.
Among inorganic materials, most builders prefer mineral wool - almost weightless, with high rates of heat retention and non-flammability, vapor permeability and resistance to deformation. This roll insulation is easy to use, even an inexperienced amateur can handle it. Not so long ago, ecowool appeared on the market - specially processed cellulose impregnated with fire-resistant and antiseptic substances.
Polymer insulation materials are inexpensive, they are very light and durable. But over time, due to temperature changes, many materials become brittle; they can also quickly ignite and emit acrid smoke, dangerous to human health and life, and are often damaged by rodents. Polymers include polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, and polyisocyanurate (PIR). It should be noted that in last years fire-resistant samples of polymer insulation with a higher cost appeared.
Insulation of ceilings is carried out in two ways, depending on the presence or absence of an attic space above. The choice of materials and their consumption, as well as the timing of work, depend on this. If there is an attic, it will be most convenient to insulate it from its side. If it is not possible or impossible to carry out such work from the attic side, a plasterboard structure will help you out.
When insulating from the attic side, special attention must be paid to the order in which the appropriate layers are laid. The closest layer to the living space is a vapor barrier, then one or several layers of various insulation materials, and the last one should be a moisture-proof, hygroscopic material. If there is an attic space, it is desirable to ensure sufficient ventilation to remove excess moisture accumulating on the insulating layer.
To insulate the ceiling in a wooden house you will need:
- insulating material - glassine or special film, rough on the outside, which are sold in hardware stores or markets;
- selected insulation or insulation materials;
- tools - hammer, knife, jigsaw or hacksaw;
- polyurethane foam.
Before laying, glassine is cut into strips equal to the distance between the beams with an allowance of 5 cm on each side. The foam is prepared in such a way that the blocks fit very tightly to wooden beams, no gaps. So, the first thing you need to do is treat all wooden floors with an antifungal compound and let it dry. Blow out the cracks between the rafters and the ceiling with foam. Then you can begin to perform the main task - laying thermal insulation materials.
Let's consider options for insulating the ceiling using bulk materials: cement-sawdust mixture and expanded clay. Similar work is carried out from the attic.
We lay a layer of glassine over the entire floor area, carefully checking for gaps between the beams and the insulation. These gaps can be eliminated using regular or liquid nails, attaching the material tightly to wooden structures. Then we prepare a mixture of sawdust and cement in such quantities that the thickness of the insulated ceiling is at least 20 cm. We determine the consumption of sawdust as the floor area divided by five, and we obtain the required cubic capacity.
We prepare cement by diluting it with water in a ratio of 10:1, and make a cement-sawdust mortar. At the same time, for 10 buckets of sawdust you will need one and a half buckets cement mortar. Add the resulting mixture gray evenly into the ceiling, compact it. After drying, the layer should not sag. We lay waterproofing material on top, you can use the same glassine, and voila, your ceiling is insulated.
Another option could be expanded clay insulation. The technology for laying vapor and waterproofing is similar to the previous process. Then expanded clay is poured in at a layer thickness of at least 10 cm for average frosty winters, compacted and covered with moisture-proof material. Since the thermal conductivity of expanded clay is quite high, carefully fitted sheets of foam plastic are often laid on the vapor barrier layer, blowing out the space between it and the beams with polyurethane foam. Then there will be bulk insulation, and again a layer of foam covered with glassine or polyethylene.
Insulating the ceiling with mineral or ecowool from the attic side will take even less time. We remove debris from the surface, line it with vapor barrier material, and lay cotton wool on it from rolls with minimal gaps, without compacting it. It is advisable to lay out two or three layers of cotton wool, placing the joints of subsequent layers on a solid part of the previous ones. We cover the cotton wool with the same moisture-proofing material, protecting it from dust, dirt and water. If the attic is planned to be converted in the future, then it is better to put boards or panels on top without supporting the insulation.
In the case when the ceiling insulation is carried out from the side of the living room, we pay special attention to the safety of the work. When insulating with mineral wool, the process will require two people. First, a moisture-proofing material is attached to the rough ceiling. Then nails are nailed to the beams not up to the head, threads are attached to them in a zigzag. Next, one person pulls the threads, and the second places insulation between them.
After several layers are laid, the nails are driven deep to hold the material in place. The last layer is the vapor barrier. To improve the aesthetic appearance, the ceiling is covered with plasterboard or any other suitable material. Often, ceilings are insulated using polystyrene foam and mineral wool, combining both materials. In this case, foam plastic, prepared in advance and cut into the required blocks, is attached to the insulating layer.
The size of the latter is determined by the distance between the beam floors, and the tighter they fit, the less heat loss there will be. Then a layer of insulating material, mineral or ecowool, is laid out, and again a layer of foam. We complete the final decoration of the ceiling with the selected materials. If you carefully follow the instructions and advice experienced craftsmen, you can effectively ensure heat retention in the house and save on energy costs. Thus, the time, money and effort spent now will turn into comfort in the future and bring you handsome dividends.
Large heat losses in the room and cold air blowing from the ceiling is a consequence of incorrect or poor-quality thermal insulation. Heat loss through the ceiling can reach 20%, since the heated air rises, and if there is no obstacle on its way that can keep it indoors, it will be “blown out”, just like your budget. Ceiling insulation measures must be carried out during the construction of the house. But if for some reason this did not happen, or the old thermal insulation has become unusable, you will have to do everything again. What are the ways to insulate a ceiling, how best to implement them in this or that case, what materials to use - these are the main questions that arise for owners. At the same time, it is important to do everything correctly so that the insulation does not become damp, condensation does not accumulate on the surface, and mold or mildew does not appear. And for this it is necessary to understand the very essence of the work performed and the processes occurring in the insulation.
Why and how to insulate the ceiling
What is meant by ceiling insulation? If it blows from above, from the side of the ceiling, we say “we need to insulate the ceiling,” but what actions are meant by this? In fact, there are several technologies, and which one is suitable in each specific case depends on the starting conditions.
In a private house, the ceiling insulation is always done from the upper room: be it the attic, the next floor or the attic. Laying thermal insulation material on top of the ceiling or in the voids of the ceiling ensures heat retention inside the room. At the same time, the height of the insulated room does not decrease, additional finishing of the ceiling is not required, and there is no need to install thermal insulation directly above the head, because it is not so easy to fix, and particles will penetrate into the living room. But the most important thing is that the processes occurring in the ceiling and thermal insulation material ensure warmth and dryness of the room and materials, condensation does not form and the insulation does not get wet.
What is the principle of attic insulation? It's no secret that the most best insulation- this is air. All modern thermal insulation materials are essentially air enclosed in one way or another in a form. But how can you use air for insulation without paying for it? Our ancestors acted very wisely when they built houses with a gable roof and an extremely cold attic, which had two windows in the gables. Our climate allows us to play this situation to our advantage. The gable roof retains snow well, which also serves as insulation. A roof covered with snow retains heat so well that even if it is -25 °C outside, the temperature inside the attic is about 0 °C. The air trapped in the attic is ideal insulator, the characteristics of which can be changed depending on the time of year or weather, by opening and closing the windows in the gables and ventilating the room. The attic floor was always insulated with bulk natural materials, together with the air, this made it possible to maintain the temperature inside the heated room at +20 - +25 °C. Another advantage of insulating the floor in the attic is that the material does not become damp and can be dried by ventilating the room.
Extremely important! In order for the attic to serve as a heat insulator, the roof slope cannot be insulated from the inside. This will cause the snow on the roof to melt and icicles to form on the eaves. In addition, the structure of a non-insulated roof is always open for inspection and repair.
Important! An attic that is insulated on all sides and has heating is no longer an attic. This is an attic, more suitable for the climate warm countries Western Europe. The design and operation of the attic has its own rules.
In the apartment multi-storey building everything is a little different. It is not possible to insulate the ceiling or floor of the upper floor. And the problem of a drafty ceiling most often occurs among residents of the top floor. What to do? The only option is to insulate the ceiling from the inside of the room, although this is not recommended, there is no other choice.
When insulating the ceiling, it is important to remember this rule: each subsequent layer in the direction from the room must have greater vapor permeability.
Below we will look separately at ways to insulate an attic from the outside and inside.
Insulation of the ceiling from the outside (from the upper room)
Insulating the ceiling from the upper room involves laying heat-insulating material on top of the ceiling or in its voids, if any. As mentioned above, this is done in private houses and cottages. The type of insulation material and the technology for laying it depend on whether the floor is wooden or concrete. For flooring on beams, which is a wooden floor on joists, lightweight backfill materials or roll-type materials are suitable. But for insulating a concrete slab, dense mats or slabs, as well as heavy backfill materials, are used.
One of the most ancient and time-tested methods of ceiling insulation is insulating the attic with sawdust. In some regions, you can buy sawdust for next to nothing or even get it for free if there is a woodworking plant nearby. Quite often, the company itself does not know where to put the sawdust, so stop by and take it at least every year. It is better to pour sawdust on top of wooden floors.
The only drawback this method the fact that the sawdust burns. Therefore, several different methods of insulation with sawdust have appeared.
Method 1. All the cracks in wooden floor coat the attic with clay, a little liquid. Sprinkle sand on top. If the clay suddenly cracks somewhere, sand will immediately be poured into the crack, and the integrity will be preserved. To protect sawdust from mice, add a layer of slaked lime mixed with carbide. Next comes the main layer - sawdust. For different regions the thickness of this layer can be different, but the minimum is 150 - 200 mm, 250 - 300 mm is considered optimal. Since sawdust is a flammable material, a thin layer of waste slag is sprinkled on top of it, especially around hot communications - a chimney, for example. Nothing is laid on top. You can only lay out the boards for ease of walking in the attic.
Method 2. The floor surface must be protected from moisture. This can be done in two ways: the first is to lay a waterproofing film on the wooden floor that can allow steam to pass through from the side of the room, the second is to coat the entire floor with clay in the same way as in the first method. Then you need to mix sawdust with cement. To do this, take 10 parts of sawdust, approximately 1 - 2 parts of cement and 1.5 parts of water. First, sawdust is mixed with cement, then water is added. The sawdust must be slightly wet for the cement to adhere to it. The resulting mixture can be poured from above onto the attic floor or poured between the floor beams onto the subfloor. A layer of 200 mm will be enough. It is necessary to start doing all this work in the spring, so that the sawdust and cement have time to dry well over the summer (they take a long time to dry).
Important! It’s easy to check whether the sawdust has dried or not: just walk on it. Dried sawdust will not sag, but will slightly crunch.
Method 3. Similar to the second method. Only instead of cement, clay is used.
Method 4. Similar to the first method. There is no need to sprinkle slag on top. The sawdust can be spread on top with clay, only not very liquid, so that it does not spill deep inside.
Considering that expanded clay is a rather heavy material, it is not recommended to insulate wooden floors with it. There is too much risk that the wooden deck will fail. Ceilings with concrete floors are insulated with expanded clay.
First of all, the surface of the concrete floor must be covered with a vapor barrier film. It should be laid with an overlap, and the joints should be taped. An overlap is made on the walls, approximately 40 - 50 cm. Wooden rafters and the chimney also need to be covered with a vapor barrier film.
Next, crumpled clay is placed on the film. And already on top - expanded clay. For better thermal insulation, use a mixture of large and small fractions of expanded clay. Then the fine grain will fill the voids, and the backfill will be more uniform. For cold climates, the expanded clay layer should be 50 cm. The 15 - 20 cm recommended in some sources will not save the situation. It is precisely because expanded clay needs to be covered in such a large layer for high-quality thermal insulation that it is rarely used.
A light structure is installed on top of the expanded clay cement-sand screed layer 50 mm. The solution should be thick enough so as not to spill deep into the backfill. This way, the attic will have a fairly strong floor, and it can be used for storing something or as a boiler room. A big plus This method is also completely fire safe and environmentally friendly.
Clay is an ancient building material whose applications are varied and multifaceted. Clay itself is not used in insulation, since for effective thermal insulation its layer must be simply colossal - 50 - 80 cm. A wooden ceiling cannot withstand such a weight, and such a thickness of backfill is simply impractical; it is better to choose a modern material.
Therefore, to insulate the ceiling, clay is used in a mixture with sawdust.
First, the floor is covered with a vapor barrier film that does not allow water to pass through. Next, you can prepare a clay-sawdust solution. Water is poured into a large barrel, to which 4 - 5 buckets of clay are added. The clay is then mixed in water until the water turns a dirty color and the clay almost dissolves. Next, part of the resulting mixture is poured into a concrete mixer and covered with sawdust. As mixing progresses, more water is added. As a result, the solution should be neither liquid nor thick.
An excellent option for insulating the ceiling in the attic of a wooden house is reed mats. Modern reed mats, tied with twine or wire, are simply laid staggered on top of the floors. It is better if there are 2 layers, the second of them will overlap the joints of the mats of the first layer, removing “cold bridges”. The disadvantage of this method is the fire hazard.
For those who want to insulate the ceiling with natural materials, seaweed is suitable. In coastal regions, this material can be bought for pennies, and if you really want, you can order delivery to another region. The advantage of seaweed ladders is that they do not harbor mice, they are hypoallergenic and even medicinal, as they are saturated with iodine and sea salt, the vapors of which are beneficial, and also do not support combustion and do not smoke. Insects and microorganisms do not grow in algae.
Seaweed is not afraid of moisture, so there is no need to vapor barrier the floor. The ladders are laid directly on the ceiling or floor in a layer of 200 mm. You can install a floor on top or lay boards for ease of movement.
Ecowool or cellulose wool is a modern material that is positioned as natural. To reduce flammability, it is treated with fire retardants or boric acid. Ecowool absorbs moisture, so there is no need to lay a vapor barrier film.
Ecowool is laid immediately on wooden or concrete floors. This requires a special blowing installation, thanks to which all the cracks are blown in, the insulation layer becomes monolithic and saturated with the air contained inside. For most regions of the Russian Federation, a layer of ecowool of 250 mm is sufficient, but in colder regions it is better to make 400 - 500 mm.
The technology for insulating the ceiling with ecowool sometimes includes spraying water. It is needed in order to speed up the process of lignin formation. Then after 1 - 3 weeks a crust appears on top of the ecowool. Due to the fact that this material tends to cake, it is always necessary to take a margin of 5 - 15%.
Penoplex is a representative of the family of extruded polystyrene foams. This material is more durable than polystyrene foam, which means it can be used for insulation. concrete floors before pouring the concrete floor on top. A good option for insulating the ceilings of the first or second floor of a low-rise private house.
It is not recommended to insulate the ceiling with Penoplex if the floors are wooden. The fact is that EPS is absolutely not a “breathable” material. As a result, in wooden structures Moisture will accumulate, which will lead to the appearance of mold and mildew.
Before laying Penoplex on a concrete floor, the latter must be checked for unevenness. First, the surface is leveled, only then can a vapor barrier material be laid.
Then the Penoplex slabs are laid out. Be sure to take a running start. They are attached to the surface with special dowels with a mushroom cap. The joints between the plates are filled with polyurethane foam. After the foam has dried, a cement-sand screed with a layer of 50 mm is poured on top. It will serve as a durable floor for the attic or second floor.
Ceiling insulation with mineral wool (Ursa)
The most popular modern material for ceiling insulation is mineral wool. One of the manufacturers of thermal insulation materials based on minerals or fiberglass is the Ursa company, whose product range includes both rolled items and rigid slabs.
Ursa mineral wool in rolls is good for insulating wooden floors; it is convenient to lay it between beams. But rigid mineral wool slabs are used for thermal insulation of concrete floors, although it can also be used for wooden floors.
Ceiling insulation with Ursa is carried out as follows:
For wooden floors. A vapor barrier material is laid between the floor beams. Its installation is mandatory, since mineral wool is afraid of moisture. The film is spread with an overlap, and the joints are taped, an overlap of 15 - 25 cm is made on the walls. Next, rolls of Ursa mineral wool with a thickness of 100 to 250 mm are laid between the beams, depending on heat loss calculations. The material must enter the space with force. To do this, it must be cut with a small margin of 2 cm more than the distance between the beams. Then there are two ways: the first - you can leave the mineral wool open, but then it will be impossible to walk on the floor, the second - you can make a wooden floor on top, leaving a gap of 3 mm between the mineral wool and the floor boards. The advantage of mineral wool is its fire safety.
For concrete floors. The concrete surface is leveled and then covered with a vapor barrier film. Mineral wool slabs are laid on top, always spaced apart. Next, a wooden floor or flooring made of boards, plywood, etc. is installed. It is not recommended to screed over mineral wool, since concrete has low vapor permeability, which means that the main rule of thermal insulation will not be observed.
Ceiling insulation with foam (polyurethane foam)
Polyurethane foam is a modern material that is advertised everywhere as the most ideal insulation for ceilings and attics. Advantages of this material are non-flammability, good adhesion, neutrality to microorganisms and insects, waterproofing and soundproofing properties, resistance to temperature fluctuations, absence of cold bridges. The disadvantage is complete vapor tightness; this has a bad effect on the microclimate of the room.
Ceiling insulation with polyurethane foam is carried out only by an organization specializing in this. The material is sprayed under high pressure so that it is blown into all the cracks and envelops protruding elements - columns, etc. The layer is usually 10 - 12 cm.
Insulation of the ceiling from the inside
An extremely undesirable measure is to insulate the ceiling from inside the room. In addition to reducing the overall height of the room, there is an extremely high risk of heat-insulating material or its evaporation entering the room, as well as the likelihood of mold and mildew appearing in the insulation. But if there is no other way out, you will have to at least take into account a number of restrictions: do not use mineral wool and form a ventilation gap between the insulation and the ceiling finish.
Ceiling insulation with extruded polystyrene foam (Penoplex)
EPPS is a good option for insulating a concrete ceiling. First, the sheathing is nailed onto which the drywall will later be attached. The height of the sheathing beam should be 2 - 3 mm greater than the thickness of the insulation. The pitch between the slats should be equal to the width of Penoplex minus 1 - 2 mm. Next, the insulation is stuffed between the sheathing; it must fit in with force. For greater reliability, it must be secured to the ceiling with dowels. Then plasterboard is attached to the sheathing and a suspended ceiling is obtained. Instead of drywall, you can install a suspended ceiling.
Penofol is foamed polyethylene, one side of which is foil-coated. Its thermal insulation properties are not that great, but if the heat loss is not too great, it may be sufficient.
It is necessary to fill the ceiling with a lath, to which Penofol is attached, with the foil side facing the room. It can be nailed to the sheathing. It is necessary to create a ventilation gap on both sides of this material, so another sheathing is placed on top of it, to which drywall is attached. A stretch ceiling option is also possible.
The second way to insulate a ceiling with Penofol is to use it in combination with Penoplex.
In addition to the Penoplex insulation method described above, Penofol is applied to the sheathing, and only then plasterboard.
Insulation of the ceiling with heat-insulating plaster mixtures
For some unknown reason, the option of insulating the ceiling with special thermal insulation plaster mixtures is not popular. But in vain. This is an excellent material for insulating concrete ceilings. Plasters are absolutely environmentally friendly, decorative, do not suffer from moisture and steam, do not burn and are not afraid of fungus or mold. Among the materials from UMKA there are items that can be used indoors.
Insulating the ceiling with white agglomerate of cork tree bark is an environmentally friendly natural method of insulation. The plug is convenient to use during installation suspended ceiling Armstrong type, secured to the sheathing. The use of a vapor barrier is not necessary, since cork is not afraid of moisture.
The methods of ceiling insulation described above are the most common, but the general list does not end there. There are many other natural and synthetic materials that can be used to insulate the attic of a private home. When choosing this or that method and material, be sure to consider general concept Your home. For example, insulating the ceiling of an environmentally friendly wooden house with Penoplex or Penofol is at least stupid. To keep the wood dry and give it the opportunity to “breathe,” you need to choose natural, vapor-permeable materials, such as seaweed, reeds, sawdust or ecowool. And for a house made of concrete, foam concrete or brick, EPS and polyurethane foam are perfect.
At the stage of designing a house, it is necessary to decide how to insulate the ceiling. Note that not only owners of private houses, but also apartments face a similar problem. on the top floors of multi-storey buildings. Surely you know that about fifteen percent of the heat in a house can evaporate through an uninsulated ceiling. Warm air can penetrate into any, even the smallest, crack and “slip out” outside the home.
It is very important to understand exactly what characteristics an insulating material should have in order to make your choice in favor of one or another insulation. First of all, it must meet all environmental standards (so that no harmful components are released from it during use), be durable, resistant, durable and not susceptible to fire.
Methods for insulating ceilings
The method that will be used to insulate the ceiling depends on the type of housing:
- IN multi-storey buildings The most commonly used method is internal insulation. In this case, all the thermal insulation is inside the room. If you choose this method, be prepared for the fact that a “layer cake” made from insulating materials can take up to 45 cm from the total height of the room.
- In private buildings, external insulation is more popular. In this case, all materials are located in the attic and insulate the ceiling from above. However, it should be taken into account that the communications installed in the attic (air vents or various cables) may interfere with the laying of layers of insulation. Therefore, you will have to refuse and use the first method. You should also not rely on the attic floor as the basis for insulation if the room is used for storage.
- There is also a combined method that provides maximum thermal insulation. However, it is impractical to use in those climatic latitudes in which winter temperatures do not fall below 35 o C.
Keep in mind that the thickness of the laid layer will directly depend on the climatic zones in which you live. There is no need to create it too thick unless absolutely necessary.
Selection of materials
A wide variety of materials are now used as insulation - from those that were known to our great-grandmothers and great-grandfathers, to the most modern ones. Next, we will look at each of these materials, the features of working with them, their main advantages and disadvantages.
Even beginners can work with this material, since special knowledge and skills are not required to install them. It is suitable for external insulation. Of course, sawdust has been known since very distant times, they are inferior in some respects to more modern materials, and they are troublesome to work with. But why are they still so often used to preserve heat in homes?
- First of all, you need to pay attention to the cost of this material. If you are lucky, you can get them completely free, especially if you agree to take them out yourself. Everyone knows how expensive a repair can cost. Therefore, if there is an opportunity to save money, why not?
- Absolute environmental safety. This criterion plays a special role when it comes to insulating rooms where small children or allergy sufferers will live. Sawdust from natural wood This is an ideal option for them!
- To create a layer of thermal insulation from sawdust, you do not need to use any specific professional tools. That is, you can save a lot of money on them too.
It should be said right away that if you are thinking about how to insulate the ceiling in an apartment, this material, of course, will not suit you. But for a private home or cottage it’s a pretty good inexpensive option.
If you like this material, this does not mean at all that any sawdust will be suitable for further work. It's best to use waste carpentry production, since all products are well dried at high temperatures before sawdust. This means that the sawdust will be well dried. Larger sawdust generates less dust and is lighter in weight. If you have sawdust from logs, it is better to dry them yourself well in the open sun throughout the summer.
Insulation with sawdust
- First, hem the beams with boards no thicker than 2.5–3 cm.
- Completely cover the ceiling with boards using 10 cm nails.
- To ensure fire safety, it is necessary to process everything wooden surfaces special solution. It will also help the wood to be stored for a longer time without being “attacked” by bugs, fungi and mold.
- As a vapor barrier, which should be applied from the outside, roofing felt or even ordinary plastic film can be used. You need to secure it with a construction stapler, going out to the sides of the walls and beams.
- The turn of sawdust has come. They can be pre-mixed with additives such as lime, clay or cement. If additives are not used, the layer of sawdust should be at least 15 cm. Do not compact them, but level them well.
- You need to pour ash on top and lay a superdiffusion membrane.
- If you use the attic for some purpose in the future, you need to make a wooden floor.
- If you use additives, mix them in a ratio of 10:1 (10 parts sawdust, 1 part additive). If necessary, lightly moisten the resulting mixture.
- The substance is laid out on the ceiling and compacted a little. Wait until completely dry.
Despite the fact that clay is the oldest material, now genuine interest in it is growing again. This is, first of all, due to a person’s desire to make their home as environmentally friendly and safe as possible. Of course, this material is also only suitable for external insulation in private houses, cottages and dachas. In addition, clay is one of the most accessible and cheapest materials that can be used in repairs.
This material is suitable not only for a private house, but also for an apartment. Today it is one of the most popular. And all thanks to a wide list of advantages:
- First of all, this material is an excellent insulation and noise absorber.
- Shows resistance to fire, temperature changes, damage by insects and chemicals.
- Durable, does not rot.
When purchasing this building material It is very important not to run into a fake. Such products do not at all correspond to all the advantages of mineral wool described above. Next, we will talk about how to distinguish a fake from quality material:
- All important information is on the packaging. These are not only the addresses of the manufacturer and official supplier, but also the date of manufacture, thickness, fire resistance class, markings with codes.
- Fake mineral wool does not have specifications.
- The packaging of a fake often has paint stains.
- Never purchase mineral wool in bright, toxic colors.
- Real mineral wool, after being compressed in your hand, will certainly restore its original shape and thickness.
- There is no need to purchase mineral wool and other building materials from dubious shops, or from trucks somewhere on the highway. A purchase made from official representatives is a guarantee of high quality products!
Features of working with mineral wool
Many people do not use this type of insulation, since its composition can release phenol. Indeed, this is so, but only in some varieties of this building material. Moreover, if you do not exceed the design temperature, then harmful substances will not be released. If there is a need to use insulation where the temperature can rise, we recommend giving preference to stone wool.
We insulate the ceiling with mineral wool
Even a beginner can cope with this task! And our tips will definitely help you!
Before performing work:
- Stock up necessary tools tools that will help you get the job done: a construction stapler, a sharp knife (not for food purposes), tape, fasteners, wooden slats, a tape measure.
- You will also need protective clothing, gloves and goggles. Keep in mind that when working with mineral wool, dust will be generated, from which you need to protect your respiratory tract. After finishing work, be sure to take a shower to wash off any remaining dust.
- Now you need to measure the thickness of the rafters. This indicator will correspond to the thickness of the future insulation. Now you need to multiply the distance between the rafters by their length and add 2 cm to the resulting amount for the supply of material on each side. This way you can calculate the area of mineral wool you will need.
How to install waterproofing?
Everyone knows that the enemy of mineral wool is moisture, that is, condensation. The mineral wool will get wet and it will become worse to protect your home from heat loss. A layer of waterproofing will help prevent this. It must be secured between the rafters without any gaps. Each strip should overlap the previous one by 10 cm.
Attic insulation
The pieces of mineral wool should be 1–2 cm larger on each side than the area between the rafters. This will help it fit as tightly as possible to the wooden blocks. It is necessary to leave a minimum gap of 2-3 cm between the mineral wool layer and the waterproofing so that air can circulate smoothly there. There should be no cracks or folds when installing mineral wool!
A layer of vapor barrier must be applied on top of the insulation. This is done using a construction stapler. The vapor barrier must be placed at right angles to the wooden rafters. Each piece should overlap the previous one by 10 cm. All seams should be well taped, thanks to which it will be possible to achieve maximum tightness.
Insulation using mineral wool method inside
This method is used in apartments and private buildings. You will need to make a sheathing for it. Dry slats or galvanized profiles are perfect for these purposes.
- It is recommended to lay waterproofing on a wooden house as the first layer. This layer is not required for concrete pavement.
- The sheathing is made with slats at a distance of 40–60 cm. The resulting cells must be filled with insulation, which are secured with slats at right angles. This way the mineral wool will fit tightly, hold well and not fall out.
- Now it’s time to cover it with a vapor barrier. Each piece overlaps the previous one by 10 cm. The joints between the pieces must be sealed with special tape.
- Now you can use the decorative ceiling.
Mineral wool is a very practical insulation material Insulation with mineral wool method from the outside
All work is carried out similarly to the method described above. The only difference is the last point. After the vapor barrier layer, you need to use a decorative flooring. An attic with such a floor can be used as storage or storage.
Ecowool
This material is now actively gaining popularity among everyone who wants to insulate their home. And this is not surprising, since it has a number of advantages:
- The first of these is to name the composition. This is almost pure cellulose - as much as 80%! And now many of you may be surprised, because cellulose is very flammable, so can it really be used for insulation? And how! After all, it is coated with brown and boric acid. Borax significantly increases the fire resistance of ecowool. Of course, it is not used for insulating chimneys, but it is ideal for ceilings, roofs and walls.
- The density and durability of the insulation is achieved through the use of boric acid. In addition, this composition perfectly repels rodents. This makes ecowool different from the mineral wool and polystyrene foam that many are accustomed to.
- Despite the fact that this material can absorb moisture, unlike mineral wool, this does not cause any particular damage to the thermal insulation qualities. Mineral wool can degrade thermal insulation by as much as 8–9% with a 1% increase in humidity. At the same time, ecowool loses only up to 5%, even if the humidity increases by a quarter! Ecowool is able to maintain ideal humidity in the room. But for this it is necessary to carry out installation in suitable conditions. Otherwise, moisture will simply accumulate, which will not end well.
- This material is also good because there are no seams. This means that you warm air there will not be even the slightest chance of leaving your home. It is enough to fill the prepared “sections” of the sheathing with a loose mass of insulation.
- Ecowool provides excellent insulation of the room from unnecessary noise.
Ecowool can be applied in different ways: dry and wet. Note that the second method is ideal for internal insulation. However, for this you will need to use quite expensive professional equipment. It allows you to spray ecowool mixed with special adhesive additives directly onto the ceiling. After drying, the excess can be cut off and reused. In addition, without certain skills, even with the dry method, using ecowool will be problematic.
Styrofoam
This material is considered one of the most popular, which was previously used for insulation of houses and apartments (internal and external). There are controversial issues that have recently forced many people to choose other materials. - quite expensive material. Has low combustion resistance. When installing it, you don’t have to perform thorough vapor and waterproofing (we’ll look at this issue in more detail below). In addition, it can release harmful substances into the atmosphere. But if it so happens that you have polystyrene foam on hand, and you need to carry out thermal insulation as quickly as possible, you can quite use it.
External foam insulation
It is enough just to cut the foam into slabs that will be laid between the beams. Be sure to leave a couple of centimeters in reserve (they can be cut off) so that the material fits as tightly as possible into the cell. After all the layers have been laid, the resulting seams must be foamed. You cannot leave a single gap, otherwise condensation will destroy the rafters by rotting and mold. If you intend to use the attic in the future as a living space or storage, you will need to lay wooden boards along the beams.
Foam insulation inside
This method is also quite simple to implement, so even a beginner can do it:
- In order to insulate the ceiling inside the room, you will need to glue the foam layers with special glue. Nowadays there are many such adhesives on the construction market (Titanium, liquid nails and the like).
- There should be no joints between the slabs. And the resulting seams after gluing must be additionally treated with construction foam.
- Now you need a fiberglass mesh. It should be glued not in a single piece over the entire area of the ceiling, but in small sheets, each of which will overlap the previous one by 10 cm. This will help to further secure the foam, and will also become the basis for further design of the ceiling.
- On such a mesh you can immediately apply decorative plaster. It can be smooth or textured according to your personal preferences.
If it is impossible to insulate from the attic side, and the concrete slabs have significant differences in height, you can use the following method. The sheathing is made of galvanized profile. Between the slats you should maintain a distance of approximately 60 cm - thanks to this the ceiling will not be overloaded. We insert foam into the resulting cells, filling the seams with foam. After the foam has completely dried and you have cut it off, you can line the ceiling with panels. Use ceiling plinth if there are gaps around the perimeter between the panels and the adjacent wall.
Expanded clay
This material is clay fired at high temperatures, crushed into granules. If you want to use it as an insulating material, you should familiarize yourself with its main advantages:
- Such insulation will never be eaten by rodents and bugs. It is not susceptible to the destructive effects of bacteria.
- Expanded clay is very strong and durable.
- It is environmentally friendly, so it can be used even in rooms where allergy sufferers and children will live.
- Not subject to combustion.
- It's inexpensive.
- High sound insulation properties.
- Easy to use.
However, you should not think that expanded clay is ideal in terms of insulating ceilings. It also has its negative sides. For example, when exposed to moisture, it significantly increases its weight. Therefore, there is no need to use it to insulate structures such as garages or other “light” extensions near the house. The material does not emit harmful substances, but working with it will be quite dusty.
Of course, such material is only suitable for external insulation. It is very difficult to imagine how one can pour such large granules, and even in a thick layer (at least 20 cm), onto a suspended sheathing. It is very important to protect expanded clay as much as possible from any precipitation - be it rain or snow. All this is moisture, which will not only affect the weight, but will also worsen the thermal insulation properties of the material.
It is important to be prepared for the fact that thermal insulation made of expanded clay will consist of a huge number of layers, namely: under and above the expanded clay it is necessary to lay a layer of hydro- and vapor barrier. Total - 5 layers! However, in the case of reinforced concrete floors, the two lower layers do not need to be used. Then you will need to thoroughly level the expanded clay mound (you can even use an ordinary rake) and cover it with film or roofing material on top. To protect the material as much as possible from moisture penetration, it is best to additionally glue all joints.
If the ceiling is sewn from below to the beams, it is best to abandon this type of insulation. As soon as he gets a little wet, he can tear out the fastenings with his heavy weight and wake up right in the living room!
As you can see, there are a lot of different materials designed for insulating private houses and apartments. Each of them has its pros and cons. One material under certain conditions can perform much better than another. Be sure to share with us and all readers your tips and recommendations for insulating ceilings!