Strawberries are cracking. Why do strawberries wither?

Both children and adults love to eat strawberries, so the demand for this berry on the market is consistently high every year. But sometimes amateur gardeners complain that the berry harvests are not as good as before, that the strawberries have been attacked by some kind of disease from which there is no escape. Sometimes the cause of a bad or spoiled harvest is insects, whose destructive activity is not immediately apparent. We will talk about diseases and pests of berries and how to protect strawberries from them in this article.

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Strawberry bushes - description

Homemade strawberry - herbaceous perennial garden plant, as popular in our gardens as raspberries, currants and gooseberries. A close relative of the strawberry is the wild strawberry. Strawberries, thanks to their unsurpassed taste qualities, cultivated in Europe, North and South America. The strawberry stem is erect, from 15 to 40 cm high, large trifoliate basal leaves of the strawberry, collected in a rosette, consist of ovate-rhombic leaves, wide-toothed along the edge, on short petioles. Both the stem and leaves of the strawberry are covered with glandular hairs. Large flowers strawberries with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm in quantities from 5 to 12 pieces make up a corymbose inflorescence. What is commonly called a strawberry - a juicy red cone-shaped fruit - is actually an overgrown receptacle on which there are real strawberry fruits - small nuts. Garden strawberries have three times more chromosomes than wild or green strawberries, so they are not cross-pollinated with any other species. Strawberries are poorly transported and do not last long when fresh. Strawberries are more likely than berries introduced into cultivation not so long ago, such as blueberries and blackberries, to be infected with fungal diseases and attacked by pests, but proper planting and care of strawberries ensures that these risks are kept to a minimum.

Strawberries are withering

If strawberry bushes quickly lose turgor and wither, the reason may be insufficient or rare watering. Most often this is noticeable during the period when strawberries grow green and after fruiting. Water your strawberries in the morning or evening and don’t skimp on the water. But if the strawberry does not lack moisture and nevertheless withers, this may be the result of damage to the root system - mole crickets or moles, making passages in the ground, undermine and gnaw the roots of the strawberry, and sometimes even push the bushes out of the ground. This is what causes strawberries to wilt. We wrote about the fight against moles in an article dedicated to apple tree diseases. In the fight against mole crickets, insecticides are used, placing them in the hole when planting strawberries. If you haven’t thought of doing this, dig trapping holes up to 50 cm deep in the area and fill them with not completely rotted horse manure, and sprinkle earth on top - mole crickets accumulate in this hole over the course of the season, intending to spend the winter in it. In late autumn, manure is used to fertilize the site, and the mole cricket is destroyed. Strawberries that have contracted Fusarium, Phytospora or Verticillium wilt also wilt. The same symptoms attract attention when strawberry roots are affected by rot.

Strawberries are drying

Why do strawberries dry out? Sometimes drying is the next stage after wilting, the causes of which we described in the previous section, but more often strawberries dry out as a result of damage to fungal diseases: spotting, late blight or gray rot, verticillium wilt, powdery mildew. Carefully inspect the area with strawberries: if only a few bushes are affected, remove and burn them, but if the infection is more extensive, treat all plants in the area with fungicides. There are times when strawberry greens look juicy and healthy, but the berries suddenly begin to dry out. This happens when the bushes are affected by gray rot at an early stage of fruit formation - this is why the berries of strawberries dry out and do not rot. Make it a rule to carry out spring and autumn treatment of strawberries against diseases and pests, and you will not have to wonder why strawberries dry out and how to save strawberries from diseases.

Why do strawberries rot? This has different reasons. Strawberries rot when they are affected by rot - root, black or gray, caused by fungi and provoked by too high humidity. For information on how to deal with these diseases, see the appropriate section. Sometimes strawberry bushes suffer from cramped conditions and poor ventilation, and when high humidity this leads to rotting of the berries. Remove fruits affected by rot, and for preventive purposes, as soon as ovaries appear on the strawberries, mulch the strawberries over the area with sawdust so that the ripening fruits do not come into contact with the soil and do not rot.

Strawberries turn yellow

There is no clear answer to the question of why strawberries turn yellow, since there are always several reasons. Sometimes strawberry leaves turn yellow due to a lack of nitrogen and magnesium in the soil. If there is a lack of magnesium, add magnesium sulfate to the soil in dry form, followed by watering the area or in the form of a solution for several weeks in a row, since there is only 10% magnesium in this fertilizer. Dolomite flour is also a source of magnesium. If there is a lack of nitrogen, add nitrogen-containing minerals or organic fertilizers, and in the future, fertilize strawberries with nitrogen fertilizers every spring, and start doing this even before the strawberries begin to grow. Strawberry leaves turn yellow, even to a lemon tint, in the case of strawberry disease with non-infectious chlorosis, when the roots sitting in unheated soil are not able to supply the leaves with as many nutrients as required for the growing season. This cause is eliminated by foliar fertilizing of strawberries with iron-containing preparations and watering the area warm water. Another cause of yellow leaves is the viral disease xanthosis (mosaic, jaundice), spread through infected planting material or aphids. There is no cure for it, so in this case preventive measures are of particular importance - spring and autumn preventive treatment of the area with a one and a half percent solution of nitrafen or two to three percent Bordeaux mixture.

Strawberry leaves are turning red

If strawberry leaves turn completely red closer to autumn, then this is an absolutely natural process, but if redness appears in the form of spots, then this is a sign of the fungal disease septoria, or white spotting. Sometimes this is how strawberries react to too acidic soil - add dolomite flour to the soil, and the problem will disappear.

Strawberries don't bloom

And there are several answers to the question “why strawberries don’t bloom.” If extreme heat lasts longer than two weeks, strawberry flowering is noticeably reduced. Strawberries may not bloom if you replanted them at the wrong time - rooting the bush takes time and effort, and there is no time for flowering. An overdose of strawberries with nitrogen fertilizers leads to the fact that they are intensively overgrown with green mass, but alas, to bloom! – doesn’t want to. There is another reason: strawberry varieties have appeared with properties similar to weeds. The bushes of these weeds look strong and healthy, but do not bloom; in addition, by reproducing vegetatively, they choke and crowd out fruit-bearing bushes. If you notice that a bush is taking too long to bloom, ruthlessly remove it.

When reddish-brown spots form on the leaves, and then the strawberry leaves lighten and only the border around the spot remains red, you are dealing with septoria, which we will write about in more detail in another chapter. Brown-brown spots without a clear outline, in the early stages of the disease, similar to opaline marks - this is brown spotting. Read about how to deal with leaf spots in the next section.

All strawberry diseases can be divided into three groups:

• leaf spots;
• fruit rot;
• withering.

In this chapter we will introduce you to the first risk group. White spot, or septoria, appears as dark red spots that turn white in the center over time. Sometimes white spotting of strawberries and wild strawberries is called another disease - ramularia, the symptoms of which also look like white spots with a purple border, which merge with each other over time, and the whitish parts of the leaf crumble, and holes appear in their place. And, finally, brown spotting - the edges of the leaves affected by this disease seem to be scorched, then the “burns” spread over the entire leaf and leathery dark-colored pads are formed on the upper side of the plate - mycelium. All these spots are of fungal origin, so the methods of dealing with them are identical. As a preventive measure, spring treatment of the area with phytosporin or other fungicide is used. As a treatment, strawberries are treated with copper oxychloride or one percent Bordeaux mixture during the period of leaf growth, before flowering and after picking the berries. A prerequisite is to treat not only the upper side of the leaves, but also the lower side. Don't let the strawberries grow too much - the fungus spreads faster in dense plantings. Remove weeds and strawberry weed varieties from the site in a timely manner.

Gray rot on strawberries

This fungal disease can destroy up to 80% of the crop in one season. First, fast-growing dense light brown spots, covered with a fluffy coating, form on the berry, then the affected fruit and strawberry stalk dry out, and the leaves become covered with dark gray or brown spots without clear outlines.

Strawberries also suffer from black rot, which is very similar in symptoms to gray rot, but the strawberry leaves turn black rather than gray soon after spots appear on them.

The fight against gray rot, as well as black rot, begins with the spring preventative treatment of strawberries with a two to four percent solution of Bordeaux mixture. All parts of the plant affected by rot must be removed. If the plant is severely affected, remove it entirely. Do not use the plant residues of these plants to prepare fertilizers, but burn them so as not to spread the fungus throughout the garden. Maintain crop rotation, do not allow strawberry plantings to become overgrown, regularly pull out weeds, and before fruiting, mulch the soil in the area with sawdust or straw so that the ripe berries do not touch the ground. In the fall, carry out another preventive treatment of the area with strawberries with Bordeaux mixture.

Fusarium wilt of strawberries

Fusarium disease manifests itself as necrosis on the edges of the leaves, gradually covering the entire leaf blade and petioles, as a result of which the rosette falls apart, the leaves droop, and the bush dies in one and a half to two months.

Phytospora wilt, or redness of the axial cylinder, can be chronic or transient, but one way or another the bush lags behind in development, the leaves acquire a dirty gray tint and curl up in the shape of a bowl. The fibrous roots of strawberries are dying. The death of the bush occurs within 2-3 years.

The difference between verticillium wilt and fusarium or phytospora wilt is that the old leaves wither first, and only then the younger ones and the entire bush. Verticillium affects the root system, as can be seen from the petioles of the leaves - their base acquires a red-brown tint. Plants that are most easily affected by verticillium wilt nitrogen fertilizers in excess.

In order to avoid these troubles, it is necessary to comply with agrotechnical requirements, in particular, observe crop rotation and not grow strawberries in areas where crops that are not resistant to wilting previously grew. Before planting, treat the strawberry roots with a solution of biological preparations such as agate 23k at a concentration of 7 g of the drug per 1 liter of water, and if signs of disease are detected, treat the strawberries through a drip irrigation system with preparations such as quadris, metaxyl, ridomil. Do not neglect preventive treatment of strawberries at the beginning growing season and when preparing the site for winter.

Protecting strawberries from birds

Not only strawberry diseases pose a threat to the harvest, but also other factors - unexpected weather changes, rodents, snails and slugs, insect pests of strawberries, as well as birds that fly into strawberry beds and peck at the largest juicy berries. There are many ways to scare birds away from strawberry beds. We offer you two proven and proven solutions to this problem:

• bird netting on strawberries: you need to drive pegs about a meter high around the perimeter of the area and here and there between the rows and throw a fine net over them;
• New Year's tinsel: drive meter-high pegs along the edges of the area, stretch twine between them along the perimeter of the area and often hang New Year's "rain" on it - the lightest breeze makes the Christmas tree rain sway and sparkle, and this scares away the birds.

Naked slugs – serious problem which is not easy to deal with. If left to chance, they can completely destroy a plot of strawberries in one season. But you can prevent the appearance of slugs: make a ditch around the area and fill it with lime, tobacco, ash or ground pepper– for slugs crawling from outside, this is an insurmountable barrier. If you have noticed the appearance of gastropods, try to defeat them by using dry fertilizers - superphosphate or potassium salt, scattering them around the area at dusk (slugs lead nightlife). The preparations irritate the surface of the mollusks, and they begin to produce a large amount of mucus in order to shed the irritating substance along with it, so after 30-40 minutes, fertilizers should be scattered over the area again. Drugs such as Thunderstorm or Meta radically eliminate slugs, but the slug dies only if the drug comes in contact directly with it. You can mulch the beds with a transparent film, under which the slugs die, unable to withstand the “steam room”.

Sometimes you can see pedicels on strawberry bushes without buds, and the mark on them looks as if someone had cut off the buds. This is how the strawberry-raspberry weevil damages strawberries - a grayish-black bug up to 3 mm long. The bugs overwinter under fallen leaves and between clods of earth, and in the spring their females lay eggs in the buds of strawberries, raspberries or wild strawberries, gnawing the stalk under the bud. One female can destroy up to 50 flowers, and more often the weevil damages for some reason male flowers on high stalks. The weevil larva eats the bud from the inside, where it pupates, and in July a new generation of weevils hatches, devouring strawberry leaves and settling in the ground for the winter. The fight against weevils on strawberries is carried out by treating the bushes with karbofos, metafos, actellik, corsair and other preparations of similar action in accordance with the instructions during budding, but no later than a week before flowering. As a preventive measure, spring and autumn treatment of the area on a windless day with Actellik or Zolon is suggested.

Bugs on strawberries

The strawberry leaf beetle is a yellow-brown bug up to 4 mm long. It and its larvae eat strawberry leaves, and if there is a massive infestation of beetles, they can destroy the greenery throughout the entire area. Spring treatment strawberries and the soil around the bushes with actellik, corsair or karbofos greatly reduces the likelihood of this pest appearing. In addition to the weevil and leaf beetle, strawberries are damaged by the cockchafer, or beetle, as it is also called. It eats the leaves of plants, including strawberries, for several weeks during the summer and reproduction period, and sometimes there are too many beetles. And the worst thing is that female beetles lay eggs, from which larvae develop that can cause even more damage. serious harm. Adult beetles have to be dealt with using old methods - shake them off the branches in the evening or in the morning, before the air temperature rises above 15 ºC, and destroy them mechanically so that they do not lay offspring. Can be arranged for chafer light trap: coat the edges of the basin with a sticky substance (solid oil, for example) and place a light source at the bottom, take the basin out into the garden at dusk and wait for the beetles to fall into the basin, from which they cannot get out.

May beetle larvae on strawberries

Incredibly voracious larvae of the cockchafer gnaw at the roots of strawberries. Why strawberries! A three-year-old beetle larva can eat the roots of a two-year-old pine tree in one day. Khrushchev larvae can also be collected by hand and then destroyed, but it is best to water the area with strawberries during the growing season with an infusion of onion peels: fill the bucket one third full onion skins, then fill the bucket to the top with water and leave for 5 days, and then dilute the infusion with another bucket of water. The best remedy for larvae is the biological drug Nemabact, which selectively destroys soil pests. The effectiveness of this drug is 90%, but since it contains living organisms, when purchasing, check the conditions and shelf life of Nemabact.

Mites on strawberries

Nematodes on strawberries

The length of the strawberry nematode is no more than one millimeter, so it is very difficult to detect it with the naked eye, especially since it lives in the buds and axils of leaves. In one season, up to eight generations of nematodes destroy strawberries. As a result of their vital activity, the buds and peduncles thicken and shorten, the petioles of the leaves become bare, red and thin, the leaves darken and become leathery. The nematode enters the area along with infected seedlings, but due to small size nematodes are difficult to detect. If the occupation of strawberries by a nematode is confirmed characteristic symptoms, carry out heat treatment of the affected bushes, as described in the previous section, just try to spray the strawberries so that the hot solution gets to all parts of the plant. It will be even better if you heat-treat the purchased seedlings - just in case, as they say, in case of emergency.

Ants in the garden are a nuisance, even though they probably provide some benefit. However, there is much more harm and discomfort from them. In addition, if ants appear in the garden, aphids will appear after them, which, as you know, is a pet of the anthill. There are many means of getting rid of these insects - both traditional, biological and chemical, but they all have drawbacks. Today, the best way to get rid of ants are special bait traps with slow-acting poison. The ants deliver these poisonous baits to the anthill and feed it to their queen and other ants, so that within a day the population begins to die en masse. The range of such traps in specialized stores is quite wide, so you can choose among them the one that suits you.

How to treat strawberries - prevention

Processing strawberries in spring

If in the spring you find that you have a lot of dry bushes in your area with strawberries, this is your signal to change the area, because it is undesirable to grow strawberries in one place for more than four years. What actions does it take to care for strawberries in spring? Remove the top layer of soil between the bushes, in which pest larvae and pathogens overwintered, and replace it with fresh soil. But if you cannot do this, then remove last year’s rotted mulch from the area and at least loosen the soil in the area to a depth of 6-8 cm, while removing weeds. Cut off all old leaves, tendrils and peduncles, plant young rosettes in place of dead bushes and add fertilizer to the soil, and also treat the area against pests and diseases - there should be at least three such treatments in the spring.

Processing strawberries during flowering

As soon as the strawberries begin to grow, mulch the area with organic matter or special film. Just before flowering, carry out another treatment of strawberries against fungal diseases and pests. When buds begin to appear, add phosphorus fertilizers to the soil, and after flowering - complex mineral fertilizer.

Treatment of strawberries against diseases

The older the area, the higher its infectious background, so without chemical treatment the area from diseases cannot be avoided. On average, strawberries are sprayed three to four times per season: the first - in early spring after harvesting the area with a two to three percent Bordeaux mixture or other copper-containing preparations, then in early April, before flowering, when the leaves begin to grow en masse, the strawberries are sprayed with topsin M, quadris or another fungicide. The third and fourth treatments with fungicides are carried out after flowering at an interval of two weeks.

Strawberry pest control

About how to deal with different insects, damaging strawberry bushes, we told you. Preventative treatments carried out in the spring, after you have replaced the top layer of soil on the site. The best drugs to use are actellik, karbofos, metafos and other drugs of similar action. The new drug Tiovit-Jet has proven itself to be excellent - an acarofungicide that copes with both pests and fungi.

Fertilizing strawberries

How to feed strawberries

The first feeding of strawberries is carried out in warm weather, after pruning the strawberries and harvesting the area, before the leaves begin to bloom - that is, in April-early May, apply highly diluted bird droppings (1:12) or complex mineral fertilizer - a spoonful of nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water. At the beginning of flowering and fruit ripening, strawberries require more potassium, so fertilizing should consist of an infusion of chicken manure or potassium nitrate; the Kemira-universal complex mineral fertilizer has proven itself very well. After the strawberry harvest, a fourth feeding is carried out, which accumulates plastic substances for the next harvest. Top dressing should consist of a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers: 30-40 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium fertilizer are dissolved in ten liters of water.

Strawberries also need foliar feeding in the form of spraying leaves in August with a three percent urea solution to successfully lay flower buds for the next year and spraying strawberries four times with boron solution every 3-4 days during the flowering period - this treatment helps to increase the number of ovaries and the size of future berries.

In addition to the listed fertilizers, in specialized stores you can buy balanced fertilizers developed specifically for strawberries, the use of which increases the yield of the berry by 30%.

This article will be useful to gardeners, since strawberries grow in almost all areas. Methods for saving strawberries from wilting are discussed here.

Strawberries and strawberries belong to the same species - green strawberries. These are very tasty, juicy and aromatic berries that have a positive effect on digestive system and on the work of the heart. It should also be noted that strawberries have a rejuvenating effect and act as an aphrodisiac, and also fight viral and various bactericidal infections. But such a plant is very capricious, so gardeners often encounter problems, for example, drying of the leaves and the seedling itself. It is this task that will be considered in this material.

Why strawberries, strawberries and berries dry out and die during the fruiting period: reasons

Strawberries are not only healthy, but also delicious. That’s why the children look forward to her harvest with such impatience. This heat-loving plant, but in the northern regions it is also grown. Fruit ripening occurs at the end of May - beginning of June. Much depends on the species, climatic conditions and care. Yes, it cannot be said that strawberries are so picky, but they love care and attention.

Interesting Facts!The name “strawberry” has Russian and Old Slavonic roots. The berry was originally called “green strawberry” (that is, from the Latin “fragrant”). And only inXVIIIcentury, a new name was established. By the way, it comes from the word “club”, that is, “having a spherical shape” or “to wind threads”. But that's not all. In those days in European countries Muscat strawberries were popular, the name of which was replaced.

• Strawberries love water. That's why, common reason drying of the bush during the fruiting period is lack of moisture. Especially if the summer was hot and rainless. During fruit set, watering should be increased as much as possible. But even after the first strawberries appear, do not forget about regular watering.
  • A distinctive feature of this problem is dry and cracked soil under the bushes, the leaves dry out, and the fruits themselves decrease in size and also dry out.
• But it’s also not worth filling it up. Otherwise, they may develop fungal diseases or fruit rotting will occur. Get injured from excessive watering maybe a root that will begin to rot, and this will lead to drying out of the above-ground part.
• Lack of heat or incorrectly selected area. Remember - strawberries love warmth and sunlight, but he is afraid of cold wind and drafts. Therefore, do not plant it in the shade of trees or in open areas where the cold wind blows.

• Also, the reason may lie in thermal burn. You need to water strawberries early in the morning, when the dew has subsided, or late in the evening. Otherwise, the hot sun may cause a burn. Remember - the moisture must have time to be absorbed before the scorching rays appear.

IMPORTANT: You cannot pour water on the leaves or fruits; the water must flow strictly under the bush. Again, this can lead to burns or the bush will begin to rot.

• If everything is in order with watering, the planting site is chosen correctly and you replant it periodically, then the reason for the drying out of the ground part lies or in pests, or in fungal diseases. These two reasons require special attention, so we will consider them in detail a little later.
• Also, one of the reasons may be vitamin fasting. Do not forget that plants need a lot (but in moderation) of phosphorus and potassium. Therefore, if no one is harming your bushes and they are getting enough light and moisture, then it’s time to fertilize. The most famous and safe potassium fertilizer ash is considered, and in case of phosphorus deficiency, the most indicative is superphosphate and phosphate flour.

Why do the leaves, leaf edges, buds, and berries of recently planted strawberries, strawberries, and victoria in the garden turn yellow, blacken, and dry out: diseases, treatment

Unfortunately, fungal diseases are often found in the garden and in the garden. It is important to notice in time the true roots of the cause of drying strawberries and carry out the necessary treatment or preventive measures for other bushes.

• It is insidious and can appear on any other crops and flowers. It begins to appear as brown spots that quickly increase in size. The fruit becomes soft and loses its rich color. These strawberries are not suitable for food.
• The fruits rot, but remain hanging on the bushes. Thus, drawing juices from the plant, which leads to drying of the leaves. Over time, rot on the fruit begins to become covered with gray fluff.
• The insidiousness of such a disease is that it is impossible to recognize the disease at the initial stage. The bush may look absolutely healthy and juicy at the stage of fruit formation. The fungus, which lives in the ground, attacks ripe ovaries.
  • Cannot be treated! If such symptoms are detected, pull out the bush and burn it. The disease can spread to other seedlings, so you need to remove diseased strawberries as quickly as possible.
  • Very important - cultivate the land! For 3 years, disputes persist in it. An excellent option would be Bordeaux mixture. A weak, pale pink solution of potassium permanganate is also well used.
  • Let’s not forget about such an effective remedy as copper sulfate. You need to dilute no more than 20 g per 10 liters of water. And keep in mind that the harvest can only be harvested two weeks after spraying.

Powdery mildew

Another common disease that begins to affect the leaves first. And only then it attacks the stems, tendrils and fruits. If the disease begins to appear during the flowering period, then the fruits will come out clumsy and tasteless.

• The disease is characterized by a white coating with drops of liquid. The leaves begin to curl, stop growing and dry out.

IMPORTANT: The risk of powdery mildew in the greenhouse is especially increased. Since spores love high humidity and warm air. Therefore, regularly ventilate greenhouses in the morning and evening. Make sure that the humidity does not exceed 50-60%.

• For treatment bushes need to be sprayed and watered milk or whey. Diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3. That is, for 1 liter of milk you need to take 3 parts of water. You can water and spray strawberries with this solution every 7 days.
• Ash helps against many plant diseases. And its main advantage is environmental friendliness and harmlessness. Therefore, there is no need to worry about the berries, and you will be able to eat the harvest after a few days.
  • It takes 3-5 days to prepare a solution from ash, or rather, infuse it. For 1 kg of sifted ash, 10 liters of water are needed. Also, it won’t hurt if you rub another bar of laundry soap before watering. Don't forget to stir well until it is completely dissolved.
• Laundry soap can also be used as an independent medicine. For 10 liters of water you need to take 1 bar of soap. Powdery mildew fungus is afraid of copper, so 20 g copper sulfate will only enhance the effect of the soap solution.
• Iodine. Another method that can be used both as prevention and treatment. To spray, you need to dilute 10 ml of iodine in 10 liters of water.

Verticillium wilt

This is a fungal disease that is considered the most dangerous. After all, its spores live in the ground for up to 15 years. Moreover, other seedlings can also be infected through gardening tools.

• The main features of the disease are dried lower leaves. They usually have a reddish or brown tint. Then the bush begins to fade more and more and eventually dries out completely.
• Another outstanding feature is the red color of the petioles and the dwarf size of the above-ground parts. By the way, in old seedlings the symptoms become noticeable only before fruit sets.
  • When the first signs appear, it is useless to save the bush. The fungus begins to act actively already in the process of ovary and ripening of fruits. If you use too poisonous, but effective chemicals, then this whole “periodic table” comes to your table.
  • Therefore, diseased seedlings are pulled out and burned. The soil should be treated with Bordeaux mixture or Fitospirin. Do not use them during harvest! It also doesn’t hurt, especially in a greenhouse, to remove the top layer of soil.
  • For prevention, we can only advise observing crop rotation. Every 3-5 years, strawberries are transplanted to a new place. You can plant on the old site after at least 5 years.

spotting

• At white spot are starting to appear round dots red-brown color. Then they begin to increase in size, and in the center appears White spot. Over time, a hole may form in the sheet.
• Brown spot characterized by black or brown dots, which begin to enlarge and eventually cover the entire ground part.
  • Bushes with such diseases cannot be treated. They are completely removed. The ground should be treated with Bordeaux mixture, and healthy bushes should be sprayed with copper sulfate or another preparation containing copper.
  • You can also add wood ash or laundry soap.
  • Be sure to remove dry leaves between seedlings and change the mulch every year.
  • Be sure to apply potassium and phosphate fertilizers, they are responsible for the plant’s immunity.

• It first covers the leaves, on which brown spots appear, and then it dries out. In the end, the fruits themselves rot. Dark or light spots appear on them, which are hard to the touch. The berries themselves become bitter and tough.
  • Copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture and Fitospirin are also used for treatment. Among the folk remedies, ash, whey and laundry soap stand out. Please note that chemicals must be used before fruit sets or at least 3 weeks before harvest.

Why do the leaves, leaf edges, buds, and berries of recently planted strawberries, strawberries, and victoria in the garden turn yellow, blacken, and dry out: pests, treatment

Pests cause no less harm than diseases. There are a large number of them, but many of them have similar symptoms and treatment methods. Therefore, we will highlight only the main “attackers”.

Strawberry mite or transparent

• A microscopic insect that feeds on plant sap. It is difficult to notice with the naked eye; it becomes visible only by its yellow and curled leaves, which dry out over time.
• The plant grows and develops poorly. This insect also produces an oily coating. Favorable conditions include high, long-term humidity and warmth.
  • The fight against them consists of treating them with Karbofos solution. But this procedure can be carried out only before flowering (as a preventive measure) and after harvesting.
  • If the bushes are heavily damaged by pests, then they are mowed down and the remains are processed.
  • Be sure to weed the crop. This should be done at the very beginning and closely monitored after the first symptoms are detected.

IMPORTANT: Use only healthy seedlings and do not allow moisture to stagnate. Also thin out the seedlings so that there is enough space between them.

Strawberry weevil

The beetle is gray-black in color, with a characteristic downward curved trunk. The body of the beetle is covered with light hairs.

• Karbofos is also used to combat it. Among traditional methods, a soda solution is effective. For 1 liter, 2 tbsp is enough. baking soda.
• You can also use birch tar. For 10 liters of water, 3-4 caps are required. To enhance the effect, you can add soap shavings.
• Laundry soap (1 bar) must be diluted in an ash solution. You can spray even after the fruit has set, but only in dry weather.

Slime

The shell-less mollusk also likes to eat juicy berries. Slugs are more active at night, so they can be collected and destroyed in the morning. To do this, place small pieces of slate between the beds.

• For prevention, mulching with sawdust or pine needles is used.
• Mustard solution helps well - 10 tbsp. l. for 1 liter of water. This can be used to water seedlings and spray diseased bushes.
• Zelenka is another one folk method, which will not harm the set fruits. It is worth diluting 10 ml of brilliant green in 10 liters of water.

Nematode

These are transparent, thin worms that are cylindrical in shape. They feed on the sap of the plant, so the leaves crowd together, turn yellow and dry out.

• For combat it is advisable to use preventive measures. In spring you need to sprinkle lime between the rows.
• If strawberries are planted for the first time, then lime is poured directly into the hole. The seedlings themselves should be immersed in warm water, then in cold water, and only then sent to open ground.
• You can also spray the crop with a 5% solution of copper sulfate.
• Or use garlic infusion. To do this, chop 200 g of garlic and dilute it in 1 liter of water. You need to let it sit for a day, then water the bushes.
• Also, a preventive measure would be to plant a garlic crop nearby or plant some bushes.

Medvedka

This is a major pest Brown. It can overwinter at a depth of 30 cm in the ground, and in the spring it can ruin crops or even inflorescences. Due to its large paws, it is able to dig tunnels and move over a large area, eating other crops.

• Most safe way- is to use bait. Bottles or jars are buried 10-15 cm into the ground, into which water or vegetable oil is poured. The beetles will fall with no way to get out.

• Among the drugs are “Force”, “Zolon” ​​and “Marshall”.
• They are afraid of noise. Therefore, install noise windmills. You can use cans, nuts or metal bottle caps.
• Can be sprayed on crops soap solution. 1 piece of laundry soap per 10 liters of water.

Why do the leaves, leaf edges, buds, and berries of recently planted strawberries, wild strawberries, and victoria in the garden turn yellow, blacken, and dry out: improper care, corrective measures

Improper care involves either using soil that is poor in minerals or improper watering.

• To prevent the necessary moisture from evaporating, use mulching with straw or humus. This will also prevent the fruit from touching the ground. And this often leads to the fact that the fruits from below begin to rot.
• Water only in the morning or evening when there is no scorching sun. This will prevent the formation of burns. You also need to water only at the root.
• To regulate the desired percentage of moisture, place 1 liter or 1.5 liters on the area plastic bottles. First you need to make holes in them on the sides. Bury it in the ground, leaving only the neck. Water will be poured into it. This will help avoid stagnation of liquid, and the plant will use it rationally through the root system.
• Plant the bushes at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other. You can use a staggered arrangement of seedlings. If the strawberries are overgrown too thickly, remove the old bushes. You will not only protect the crop from drying out, but also from the formation of diseases. By the way, when planted densely, strawberries grow small.

• Remove mustaches and weeds on time! This, by the way, will prevent the appearance of pests. And there will be more harvest.
• Apply fertilizers. In addition to potassium and phosphorus, it can become dried out and yellow leaves magnesium deficiency appears. To restore it, add magnesium sulfate in a ratio of 15 g per 10 liters of water.
• The nitrogen content must be kept normal. Its deficiency can also be characterized by dried leaves and a bright yellow color. To restore the nitrogen balance in the soil, use 25 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water for irrigation.
• It doesn’t hurt to regularly water the strawberry crop with mullein solution (1-2 handfuls per 10 liters) or ash infusion. These drugs are completely harmless, nourish the bushes with the necessary substances and protect them from diseases and pests.

What to do with fading, drying strawberries, strawberries, Victoria, if the reasons are unknown: replanting

Diseases and insects cannot affect the entire crop at once. Although not quickly, they will attack gradually. If there is not enough moisture or fertilizer, then, yes, it will affect the entire area at once.

• But sometimes the cause is dense planting or propagation by the tendrils of the strawberry itself. Keep an eye on this. They need to be either trimmed, or, if they have taken root, replanted.
• Regularly replant strawberries to another location. This should be done once every 3-5 years. Do not plant next to the old site. After all, diseases and insects, if present, will quickly move to a new place.
• Strawberries need to be replanted in the first months of autumn or spring period. If you decide to replant it at the end of April - at the beginning of May, then be prepared for the fact that the crop will be very vulnerable to diseases and pests.
• Do not replant young seedlings. They must be at least two years old!

• Strawberries need to be replanted only before flowering. Even before the ovary of inflorescences. Since the plant will take root (which is only 10%), the fruits will already be lost. By the way, the bushes themselves often die.
• When you plant it in the ground, dip the seedling in a solution of clay and manure.
• You can additionally disinfect the soil. Suitable for this purpose are vinegar essence (10 ml per 10 l), laundry soap, wood ash, copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture.
• Plants that are sick or have a wilted and dried out appearance cannot be transplanted! Only healthy seedlings are replanted!
• Be sure to apply all necessary fertilizers before planting.

Preventive measures against diseases, pests, against drying out of strawberries, strawberries, Victoria: tips, recommendations

The only and main advice in the fight against pests and diseases is prevention. Any disease is easier to prevent than to treat.

• Plant only strong seedlings and grow pure varieties. If you have several types of strawberries, plant them at such a distance that they do not pollinate. And, moreover, they did not have the opportunity to intertwine their mustaches.
• Remember - the older the bush, the more diseases and pests it has. Ideally, it is considered to carry out a transplant every 2 years.
• By the way, do not plant in the area where you grew before tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants or peppers. There must be a minimum of 3 years after the last crop was planted. After all, old diseases and insects can spread to strawberries.
• Alternatively, always cultivate the land. Even ordinary boiling water will already destroy some larvae or spores.
• Another effective method- This means first planting mustard or garlic in the old place.
• Remove weeds on time! And do not put them side by side in the compost, but immediately send them to the designated place. This will only create favorable conditions for the development of bacteria and unwanted guests.
• Keep an eye on watering. Strawberries are underdeveloped root system, so the lack of moisture is very sensitive. And this will lead to her becoming vulnerable.

Video: How to treat strawberries from diseases and save them from pests?

And what to do now with these bushes - leave them or throw them away?

A good friend approached me with these questions at the end of June. At this time, garden strawberries were just beginning to ripen in our Nizhny Novgorod region. And before that, in June, it was hot for more than two weeks without a single rain. And this is while the berries are being poured! I myself couldn’t get around to watering the strawberry beds. When I saw that the leaves of the bushes had withered and the berries were forming small, I urgently began to water them.

So I assumed that. Perhaps due to a severe lack of moisture in the soil, the berries dried out. Over the phone, she gave advice not to touch the bushes if they are not yet old and their foliage is healthy.

But two weeks later the bell rang again, and Olga Nikolaevna again asked with alarm: what should she do with the strawberry bushes?

There was no harvest, although the rains abundantly watered all our gardens and vegetable gardens for two and a half weeks. The fact is that almost simultaneously with the beginning of strawberry ripening, an extensive cyclone came to the region with daily rains and a significant drop in temperature: on some days during the day the thermometer did not rise above 10°C. and at night it dropped to 3-4°C. By the way, in some areas of the region there were even frosts in the twentieth of June!

This time I had to go on a visit to figure everything out on the spot. Looking at the dried berries remaining on the bushes, I immediately understood what was going on. The harvest was destroyed by gray rot, which was provoked by the July cyclone. This disease really hit the strawberry beds of many people, “stealing” a considerable part of the harvest from gardeners. The disease was very severe and almost continuous - all the ovaries were affected at a very early stage, so the berries did not rot, but dried out without filling.

Why didn’t my neighbor’s strawberries get sick?

Olga Nikolaevna herself saw how she picked a whole dish of ripe berries in front of her. What to answer, because the plots are almost nearby. The development of gray rot is influenced by various factors. This is also a variety (there are more stable ones, for example, Boheme, Luch VIR, Fireworks, Holiday, Cinderella. Borovitskaya, Grenadier, Redgauntlit, Troubadour, Ruby Pendant, Memorable, Shchedraya, Harvest, Gorella, Festival Chamomile, Kent, Elvira, Gigantella, etc. .), and growing conditions. Particular attention should be paid to thickening of plantings and abundant feeding nitrogen, which weakens plant immunity.

What to do with strawberries now?

All affected berries from the garden must be collected and destroyed (buried in the soil outside the border of the site). Now it is advisable to cut off the leaves and spray the beds with 1% Bordeaux mixture. Dig up the row spacing and apply complex mineral fertilizers.

And in early spring, even before young leaves begin to grow, the beds need to be cleared of old leaves and tendrils - the main source of wintering infection, and the straw bedding must also be removed. After this, spray the bushes with 2-3% Bordeaux mixture. Loosen the dried soil and sprinkle with fresh humus.

Just before flowering begins, spray the bushes with a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% Bordeaux mixture. When ovaries appear, you can treat the soil to prevent the development of gray rot with an infusion of ash (2 cups of ash per bucket of water), a solution of calcium chloride (100 g per bucket of water) or pollinate the base of the bushes with ash.

At the beginning of setting berries, lay clean straw or shavings and pine needles on both sides of the row so that the flower stalks and berries do not touch the soil.

It is advisable to cultivate resistant varieties.

By the way, the July cyclone provoked the appearance of gray rot both on some varieties of roses (the buds rotted without opening) and on individual lilies, whose stems and leaves turned yellow.

Strawberry lovers look forward to the harvest of these aromatic and tasty berries every season. But some gardeners may encounter a problem when strawberry fruits dry out. To get rid of such a scourge, you need to know the reasons for its occurrence.

Causes

Strawberries are one of the most popular and favorite plants among summer residents. Its berries have a good effect on the gastrointestinal tract and digestion, as well as on the functioning of the human myocardium. Experts have noted that strawberries rejuvenate the body, are an aphrodisiac and can fight viruses and infections.

But the plant requires special care behind them, due to the absence of which gardeners may encounter some problems, for example, drying out of berries or seedlings.

• Often, strawberries dry out, do not fill with juice, spoil without turning red, fall apart, or simply do not develop due to insufficient watering. This plant loves water, especially during the fruiting period. If there is no rain in the summer and it is hot weather, then in order to increase the size of the berries and their quantity, it is necessary to water the plants more often. A lack of moisture can be detected by dried bushes, as well as dry soil underneath them. In this case, the leaves also turn yellow and dry out, and the fruits become hard, tough, and the bushes wither immediately after flowering, not allowing the berries to develop well and ripen.
• The berry may begin to dry out due to thermal burn, so you need to water the strawberries at a time when there is no sun in the sky. This can be done in the evening or in the morning. It is also worth making sure that the water gets on the root and not on the leaves or berries.
• If watering is normal, then the reason for drying out of the fruit may be pests or fungi. These are fairly common problems that gardeners often have to deal with.
• One of the reasons is a lack of vitamins. We must remember that this plant must be periodically fed by adding potassium and phosphorus to the soil. If nothing prevents the plant from developing, but the buds and berries dry out, then you need to pay attention to feeding it. The safest fertilizer is considered organic composition of natural origin.

Diseases and pests

Strawberries are quite often affected by various types of fungal diseases. It is important to identify them in time, eliminate the problem, and also treat other bushes in order to prevent their disease.

Gray rot

It can appear on various plants in the garden. Initially it appears as spots on the sprouts, which gradually increase in size. After this, the leaves wither and lose their green color. Then the berries are affected, and the entire strawberry bush dies on the vine. If the affected berry is not removed from the bushes in time, it will draw all the juices from the plant, which will cause the bush to dry out completely.

The danger of this disease is that on initial stage it's hard to notice. If pronounced symptoms of this disease are detected, the bush can no longer be treated. It must be removed from the site and burned, otherwise the infection will spread to other plants.

It is also important, after removing the affected bush, to treat the area in which it grew, since disease spores may remain in the ground. To do this, it is recommended to water the soil with Bordeaux mixture.

Powdery mildew

This is also an insidious disease that initially affects the leaves, and then gradually spreads to the fruits and stems. It usually appears at the time of flowering of the bushes, as a result of which the fruits become tasteless. It is difficult to notice pathology in time. When it develops, it appears as a coating on the leaves that resembles dew. Most often, this disease affects strawberries in a greenhouse. To get rid of this, it is recommended to ventilate the room more often and reduce the amount of watering.

After detecting a pathology, you need to treat the bushes with whey, which is diluted in water 1: 3. The bushes need to be watered with this solution for 7 days. If necessary, you can sprinkle the bush with ash diluted in water. To do this, you need to dilute 1 kg of the mixture in a bucket of water and pour the mixture over the bushes, adding a little soap to it so that the solution sticks better to the leaves.

Withering

This disease is considered very dangerous, since the spores of the disease can live in the soil for up to 10 years. In this case, not only the soil is infected, but also the equipment with which it is cultivated. You can notice the pathology by dried flowers and leaves on the bush, which have a brown tint. If measures are not taken to eliminate the pathology in time, it can affect the entire bush, and the berries begin to dry out.

Often it is not possible to save the plant, since it is necessary to use strong chemicals, and the pathology appears during the fruiting period, so the chemicals can harm the berries, which will then become unfit for consumption. That's why experienced gardeners It is recommended that when the first signs of pathology appear, the bush should be completely torn out, taken outside the site and burned. After this, the land needs to be treated with “Fitosporin”, but apply chemicals It is not recommended during fruit appearance. It is also worth collecting the top layer of soil where the bush grew and taking it out of the area.

• Spotting. When this pathology appears, red dots begin to appear on the leaves, which will gradually increase in size and then affect the entire leaf. A diseased bush cannot be cured; it must be completely dug up and removed from the site. It is recommended to water nearby bushes with Bordeaux mixture and add ash to the soil.
• Late blight. It affects the leaves and gradually spreads to the entire bush. If the necessary measures are not taken, the berries may also dry out. They will develop spots that are hard to the touch. The berries themselves will become hard, prickly and bitter. For treatment, use Fitosporin.

Errors in agricultural technology

• If strawberries disappear during the ripening period, the reason for this may be improper care or soil poor in mineral components. Not all novice gardeners know that to prevent excessive evaporation of the necessary moisture, you need to mulch the ground before and after watering. As a result of failure to comply with such requirements, the bush will dry out, as will the berries on it. You can mulch with straw or humus. It is also necessary to ensure that the berries do not touch the ground after they appear.
• Watering the site is also not done correctly by everyone. Timely application of moisture in favorable weather will help prevent burns on shoots and berries. In order to ensure optimal watering, you need to use an average of 10 liters of water for every square meter of planting. During the rainy season, the amount of watering should be reduced.

• Beginner gardeners also make mistakes when planting young shoots. The shoots must be placed at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. It's better to do it in checkerboard pattern, since densely planted strawberries will shade neighboring bushes. It is recommended to remove weeds from the site in time, in this case you can get more harvest.
• Proper application of fertilizing will also help avoid drying out of the bushes. Beginning summer residents make mistakes in this process as well. Usually they apply phosphorus or potassium based fertilizers 4 or even 5 times per season, this is not correct. Feeding with these preparations is carried out no more than 3 times. It is also important to ensure that the amount of nitrogen in the soil is normal. It is recommended to regularly water the area with mullein solution and sprinkle the area with ash.
• It is important to remember that strawberries are transplanted only before the crop blooms, when the ovaries have not yet appeared on the bushes. Before planting, new seedlings are first dipped with their roots in a solution of manure and clay.

Ways to solve the problem

Experienced gardeners know what to do to save strawberries from drying out. To do this, it is necessary to carry out timely preventive measures that will help prevent the appearance of pathologies on bushes and berries. Prevention is the main way to solve the problem when the berries on the bushes begin to dry out.

• Young bushes have higher immunity to resist diseases and pests, so it is recommended to choose only healthy seedlings when planting. It is also necessary to observe the timing of transplanting strawberries. Performed this procedure after a certain period, which differs for different varieties strawberries (on average 4-5 years).




• In order to always have fresh and beautiful strawberries in the garden, it is recommended to properly care for the plant. The main task is proper and timely watering. You shouldn’t over-moisten the soil, but you shouldn’t let it dry out either. It is recommended to use sprinklers that will moisten the soil optimally.
• To preserve strawberries and prevent them from drying out after harvesting, it is recommended not to shift or pour them over, and also to place them in a shaded place.
• After harvesting, it is recommended to fertilize the soil again and prepare the strawberries for winter. To do this, you need to put mulch and remove all affected and diseased bushes from the area.

To learn why strawberries dry out, watch the following video.