How to feed clematis in August. Care activities in September

Preparing clematis for winter includes two main and rather difficult activities for beginners.

1. Bush pruning.
2. Covering plants.

Pruning is probably the most difficult and incomprehensible task for beginning clematis growers. But in fact, everything is simple here!

Pruning clematis for the winter

It will, of course, be very good if you know which pruning group your clematis belongs to. But even if you don’t know, it doesn’t matter, now we’ll figure it out. Let's start from the beginning.

When to prune clematis for the winter. Depending on where you live, pruning is carried out either at the end of October or at the beginning of November. Try to make it while the weather is good. This is quite a painstaking task and doing it in the rain will be extremely unpleasant.

How to prune clematis in the first year after planting. In the first year of life, preparing plants for winter is quite simple. The first pruning is the same for all varieties of clematis. Leave a shoot 20 - 30 cm high (2 - 3 buds), and cut off the rest. Such short pruning will provoke the development of side shoots next year.
Pruning clematis of the first group. If clematis begins to bloom in the spring on old shoots from last year, then it belongs to the first group of pruning. Such plants can have long shoots up to two meters high. The tops of the shoots are mainly trimmed, adjusting the height of the bush to the size of the trellis. In addition, remove dry, broken and simply “extra” shoots.
Pruning clematis of the second group. Clematis, which blooms twice a year, once on old and then on young shoots, belongs to the second group. Such plants are cut somewhat shorter. The shoots are left 1.2 - 1.5 m high. Dry, broken, etc. are also rejected.
Pruning clematis of the third group. Clematis of this group bloom only on young shoots that grow in the spring. Therefore, we don’t need last year’s shoots. When pruning such plants for the winter, cut off all shoots at the level of 2 - 3 buds from the ground.
When preparing clematis for winter, you can also use combined pruning. Some gardeners use this pruning method for all varieties. Especially if they don’t know, and don’t want to know, which group the bushes growing in them belong to. In this case, the shoots are cut off, so to speak “every other”. One is left up to 1.5 m high, the other for 2 - 4 buds, etc. This method has its advantages.

1. There is a gradual rejuvenation of the bushes, which is still recommended to be done sooner or later.
2. Clematis has 2 groups; during the second flowering, the flowers are located evenly throughout the bush. After all, if all the shoots are cut at a height of 1.5 m, then the first flowering will be below this level, and the second above.

Of course, in the garden everything will not be as simple as shown in the pictures, but it will not be as complicated as it might seem at first.

Removing clematis from its support

It can be very difficult to remove an old, and even neglected, bush from its support. To make this task easier, in the spring you need to tie the shoots to the trellis on only one side. Under no circumstances should you weave shoots between the trellis rods. Over the summer they will grow and become entangled so that in the fall it will be impossible to remove them without breaking them.

In the photo below you see an old, overgrown clematis bush from the second pruning group.

This bush needs to be removed from its support.

A novice clematis grower's hair will probably stand on end at the thought that he will now have to untangle these thickets. It's actually simple.

The upper part of the plant can be used as a “pillow”.

We cut off all shoots at a height of 1.5 meters above the ground.

If you tied the vines to one side of the trellis in the spring, then no problems should arise.

We untie all the wires or strings that were used to tie the plant to the support rods.

Scissors are the main tool for this type of work.

Using scissors, we cut off all the leaves that the plant holds onto the twigs.

After the strings were removed and the leaves were trimmed, the plant easily separated from the trellis.

That's it, all this took no more than 20 minutes. Of course, in the spring we will still have to tinker here. Cut out all the broken vines, and just thin out the bush thoroughly. To do this, you will have to cut off all the leaves and the most with scissors. good shoots distribute evenly and beautifully on the trellis. But it will be in the spring...

Now you can move on to the next stage of preparing clematis for wintering.

How to cover clematis for the winter

You can cover clematis for the winter different ways. You just need to try to ensure that the shelter protects not only from cold, but also from dampness and is not excessive. Clematis is a completely frost-resistant plant and there is no need to insulate it beyond measure.

These plants are already ready for winter

First of all, you need to make sure that the clematis is not flooded with water during thaws. To do this, you should pour 1 - 2 buckets of humus or just soil under the bush so that a mound is formed and the roots will not get wet.

The shoots should not be laid on bare ground, but on some kind of “pillow”. Boards, branches, and cut shoots of the same clematis are usually used as a pillow. I most often pour pine needles for this purpose. All kinds of rodents like to spend the winter in dry places, but the needles are prickly and mice don’t like it. But in the spring the needles must be removed, they are very

Shelter scheme for clematis for the winter

acidifies the soil, and clematis itself categorically does not like this.

For covering it is convenient to use lutrasil or any other covering material. Wrap the prepared, trimmed shoots with lutrasil, lay them on pine needles and cover them with leaves and spruce branches. All this on top must also be covered with pieces of slate.

All gardeners always have plenty on hand old film. I really want to use this film to cover wintering flowers. It can of course be used, but with some reservations.

Probably few people are not familiar with clematis. These beautiful vines have been decorating houses and gazebos for a long time. personal plots experienced flower lovers.

However, newcomers are often frightened by this proud, handsome man. And this is not surprising, because caring for clematis requires special knowledge: very great importance It has autumn period. The development of the plant and its subsequent flowering depend on it.

Autumn care is largely determined by the type of clematis. There are not many actions that can be considered among the key necessary actions in the fall. Firstly, this is pruning, secondly, nutrition and, thirdly, it is covering the vines before frost.

In the first year of planting, clematis do not require any extraordinary care in the fall. But they simply need pruning. Moreover, all types of vines are initially pruned in the same way: everything that is above 25-30 cm is removed from each shoot.

There should be a maximum of three buds left on each of them. This procedure provokes active growth of lateral stems in the next growing season. It is held from late October to mid-November.

If autumn is dry, then clematis must be watered; this requirement can be ignored only if there are heavy rains in late September and early October.

After watering, the bushes are showered with ash, paying special attention to the root zone. As a preventive measure, treat the remaining shoots and the soil near them with special antifungal fungicides.

Before the onset of the first frost, you can begin gradual warming of young vines. Shelter for the winter is a mandatory action, which is not related to the type or variety of clematis, since young plants do not yet have frost resistance.

First of all, cover the seedlings with dry soil mixed with humus; it is permissible to replace it with peat. Then cover the plant with insulating material with good breathability, this can be peat, sawdust, pine spruce branches or other suitable material.

Autumn pruning of vines

It is important for more intensive development of the root system. However, when carrying it out, you will have to take into account all the characteristics of clematis varieties in order to enjoy its flowering again next year.

In general, clematis needs several types of pruning:

• Sanitary, which consists of removing all dried and damaged branches;
• Formative, allowing you to give the flower the desired shape;
• Winter, which makes it easier for clematis to overwinter; they freeze less and tolerate winter cold more easily.

Pruning itself before the arrival of frost makes it easier to cover the perennial for the winter, rejuvenates the bush, provoking the appearance of young, vigorous shoots with flower buds the next season.

Based on the timing of pruning, we can confidently say that winter pruning must be carried out 2-3 weeks before the cold weather sets in. Whereas sanitary and formative can be carried out equally in both spring and autumn. However, in any case, it is vital to take into account the biological nuances of each type of vine.

Pruning all varieties of clematis

Clematis are divided by professionals into several types according to the subtleties of the formation of flower buds and the method of flowering:

• The first group traditionally includes vines; their inflorescences form exclusively on the branches of the previous year. This species may include the varieties Biryuzinka, Cardinal Rouge, Knyazhiki and others.
• Clematis belonging to the second group are distinguished by long-lasting flowering - it occurs in two stages. The first flowering occurs on the branches of the previous season, starting from May until mid-summer. And from the end of July, flowers bloom on fresh side stems that have already grown this season. The favorite varieties of this variety among flower growers include President, Minister, Dawn, Flower Ball, etc.
• The third group includes varieties that form inflorescences exclusively on young stems. These are the varieties Jacqueman, Tuchka, Integrifolia, Victory Salute and many others.

Lianas of the 1st and 2nd varieties should be pruned very carefully.

Only the strongest shoots of the current season should be left; pruning is carried out to a height of approximately 1.2 meters from the ground. At the same time, it is possible to carry out sanitization, removing dry, broken, damaged branches.

The peculiarity of these plants is that the leaf mass does not fall off on its own, so in the fall it will have to be removed on your own at the same time as the shoots. Stems that have already bloomed this summer are shortened by about a third.

Clematis from the 3rd group are cut off almost to the base, retreating only 15-20 cm from the soil surface. On each remaining stem there should be no more than two buds, of which next summer The main and side branches will begin to grow.

Caring for pruned vines

Before and after pruning, caring for beautiful perennials consists of watering, preventive treatment from the appearance of pests and diseases and, of course, fertilizing the soil.

The roots of clematis in autumn, as well as in summer, need moisture. You can water them once, or if it rains very rarely, twice before frost arrives.

Preventive antifungal spraying is carried out after each pruning, applied Bordeaux mixture 1% or solution iron sulfate with a concentration of 2%. The root parts of the bush and the soil in the tree trunk area are treated.

It is better to fertilize vines for the last time in the season at the very beginning of September, some time before winter pruning. This will help make the plants stronger; the reserves of nutrients in the roots and stems, wasted during the growing season, will be replenished.

Fertilizing should contain potassium and phosphorus; nitrogen in the fall will do more harm than good, because... it provokes unnecessary growth of green mass. It is useful to add a bucket of humus to each clematis bush.

Winter shelter

When purchasing this or that variety, be sure to inquire about its frost resistance and the type of shelter suitable for it. In general, the rule always works, the more elite variety, the more he is afraid of the cold, which means he needs reliable shelter. Quite simple varieties are more resistant to frost.

However, no matter what, on the territory of Russia, any variety needs reliable winter shelter, otherwise it will simply freeze.

Clematis of the first group are quite frost-resistant; it is quite acceptable to leave them to overwinter directly on supports. These are, for example, varieties like Knyazhik.

It is enough to fill the root zone and trunk circle a thick layer (at least 15 cm) of sand mixed with ordinary ash.

Not by that much resistant varieties carefully remove from the supports and, laying it on the ground, cover with spruce branches. Place a layer of peat or sawdust on top and complete the covering with covering material. Under the cover of snow, the shelter can sag, so it is better to build a small frame on top of the vines, and only then use the covering material.

Peat or sawdust can harbor mice; a napkin soaked in creolin or bait with a special poison placed in the winter “shelter” of clematis will help to scare them away.

The second variety of vines needs the same shelter as the first.

But the bushes of the third group cover somewhat differently. First of all, the pruned bushes are covered with spruce branches. Wooden boxes are installed on top of it, which are covered with roofing felt or polyethylene.

Place peat or soil on top of it in a layer of at least 20 cm. Do not forget to protect the plant from rodents.

Different regions and shelter of clematis

The territory of Russia is vast, in different regions climatic conditions differ significantly from each other. Therefore, sheltering clematis for the winter in each area may have its own nuances.

• IN middle lane(Moscow region, for example) the winter months are cold, and there is not always enough snow, so clematis that are not highly resistant to cold require good shelter. It is not unimportant in such conditions good ventilation inside the winter “dwelling” so that the roots of the flower do not dry out.
• The Volga region has a milder climate, but is marred by frequent temperature changes. Here the main condition when creating a shelter is to prevent water from getting into it, since high humidity in winter time may destroy clematis.
• In Siberia and the Urals, snowfalls are common during the winter months. Therefore, it is impossible to do without installing a strong frame that can protect the vines from the weight of the snow cover. These are quite harsh regions, so the shelter must also be reliable.

In conclusion, I would like to say about one mistake often made by beginning gardeners. This is incorrect pruning: shoots that will bloom only next year are often removed. As a result, clematis do not bloom. You should pay special attention to this.

Autumn is always of great importance for gardeners: watering, fertilizing, pruning, shelter for the winter - the list of tasks is huge.

The development and flowering of clematis also depends on the correct implementation of all these procedures. Therefore, if you want beautiful vines to delight you with their incredible flowering every year, try to take into account their characteristics.

Initially, clematis (they are also called clematis) began to be cultivated in Japan, then in Western Europe, after which they spread throughout the northern hemisphere because of their beauty. On this moment exists more than 370 varieties and varieties, which are registered by the Horticultural Society of Great Britain.

Varieties are divided into simple, double and semi-double. The first have one row of petals, the second have two or three circles, the third have more than three. There are bicolor varieties in which the outer sepals differ in color and shape from the inner ones. Varieties are divided into large and small. In large clematis sepal diameter up to 15 cm, for small ones - up to 5 cm.

As it grows, the species forms a vine that can reach a height of 3 m. They are often used to decorate arches or mesh fences.

Lianas need to be propagated by layering, since when seed propagation they don't save varietal characteristics and quickly degenerate. They prefer acidic soils, where the pH can drop to 4.0. For some varieties, neutral or alkaline soils– this needs to be clarified when purchasing seedlings.

Feeding and caring for clematis in summer

In summer, clematis, like other plants, require the entire complex of nutrients: nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Nitrogen promotes the growth of green mass, potassium is responsible for abundant flowering, and phosphorus supports the root system and is responsible for the plant’s immunity. Suitable for feeding clematis in summer as organic substances - manure, ash, phosphorite or bone flour, green fertilizers, and mineral ones - urea, superphosphate and potassium sulfate.

Particular attention should be paid to choosing a landing site. This place should not be dry, as if there is a lack of water, the flowers will be small. Watering is required 3 times a week hot weather- carried out in the evening, while the leaves are also irrigated with water.

Fertilizers for clematis are applied after abundant watering in liquid form. Feeding clematis for abundant flowering should be carried out at the stage of kidney formation. This will strengthen the plant and allow it to accumulate nutritional elements for the entire flowering period.

What to feed young clematis:

• At the time of landing- rotted manure in the hole and superphosphate for the roots.

• After two months watering with green fertilizer.

• Feeding clematis in August-September superphosphate before wintering.

Video: What is needed for abundant flowering of clematis

How to feed old clematis in summer:

• In the spring, when the snow begins to melt, pour a handful of urea or ammonium nitrate around the roots.

• In 3 weeks water with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer.

• In another 2 weeks– a solution of manure or chicken droppings.

• During flowering– potassium sulfate at the root.

• Near the end of summer– potassium and phosphorus.

• After flowering clematis feed potassium phosphorus fertilizer.

To prevent nematodes from infesting the roots, wormwood, marigolds or calendula are planted around the clematis.

Preparing for winter and pruning vines

How to feed clematis in the fall so as not to cause green growth - there are two options:

• stove ash containing potassium and phosphorus– everything you need for roots and bud formation for next year;

• bone flour– a long-lasting source of calcium and phosphorus, after which phosphorus nutrition with mineral potassium can be avoided for 3 years.

Fertilizers for clematis are applied in dry form in the fall, since the plant will not actively accumulate nutrients. By spring, soil microorganisms will process the minerals and in the spring they will be available to plants.

More important event is pruning. You need to know which variety grows flowers on last year’s shoots, and which ones grow on young growths.

If flower stalks form on young shoots, then such a plant is completely cut off for the winter, leaving 2 - 3 internodes, which are covered with a layer of insulation. To prevent the mulch from being blown away by the wind, you can place it on top wooden box. If flowering begins on old shoots, then you need to leave about 1.5 m in height, trim the rest.

All types of clematis need to be covered for the winter, as they are afraid of frost, and the quality of flowering will depend on the safety of the shoots. After pruning, the branches are laid on the soil, pressed with staples and covered with mulch - sawdust, leaves. In particularly cold regions, covering material is used for gardeners.

Carefully! In spring, it is important to open the vines in time so that they do not evaporate under the mulch or covering fabric. Due to untimely ventilation, many plants reduce their flowering characteristics or begin to suffer from fungus

It is better to propagate clematis in winter. To do this, dig a groove from the mother bush and sprinkle it with phosphorus fertilizer. One shoot is dug in and mulched.

Over the winter root system has time to germinate and will produce new shoots upward in the spring. After this, you can cut off the young seedling from the main bush. The plant does not tolerate transplantation well, so if possible, transplant it immediately to permanent place. The distance between bushes should be at least 2 meters so that they do not compete with each other for nutrients.

Clematis comes from the temperate zone of the northern hemisphere, so, despite its delicate appearance, it is a fairly frost-resistant plant. Two of its species can withstand frosts down to -12°C and bloom from December. But not all types of clematis are so frost-resistant; moreover, they are divided into groups according to the timing of flowering and the location of flower stalks on the shoots. Therefore, the topic “Clematis: care in the fall, preparation for winter” is very extensive. But, fortunately, it is exhaustible.

Wild clematis is known in Rus' under the name “clematis” or “lozinka”. Most often this is a plant with long vine-like stems, growing in moist soil along river valleys, forests, and meadows.

Garden clematis aristocrat. The registration of varieties of this plant is carried out by the Royal Horticultural Society of Great Britain.

The success of wintering clematis directly depends on the correct choice of species and variety for specific climatic conditions.

Plant classification

There are as many as five types of classifications of clematis, but gardeners are really interested in only three: according to flowering times, according to the nature of flowering and according to types of pruning. The last two groups are closely related.

Flowering time

According to the timing of flowering, clematis are divided into:

• early flowering;
• early summer flowering;
• late bloomers.

Early flowering. This is a wild group of clematis. They bloom in late spring. Selected species Mediterranean origins can bloom even in winter, but they are unlikely to withstand severe frosts.

Summer early flowering (mid early). Mostly hybrids that can bloom twice. The first time in late spring - early summer, the second time in late summer - early autumn.

Late flowering. A group that blooms no earlier than July and blooms for about three months. Most of the clematis in this group are herbaceous.

According to the nature of flowering

There are also three groups: flowering on the shoots of last year, flowering on the shoots of the current year and mixed, that is, the first flowers appear on the shoots of last year, and the same bush later blooms again on the shoots of the current year. The last group consists mainly of hybrids.

By cutting method

Clematis that form flowers on last year's shoots should not be pruned at all. If the plant is young and healthy, it is left to grow naturally. Only weak and old shoots are pruned.

The mixed group is pruned very carefully. The current year's shoots can be cut only to the first axillary bud. top sheet, that is, cut off no more than twenty centimeters.

Clematis, which form flowers on the shoots of the current year, are calmly cut off almost at the root, leaving stems about twenty centimeters high with several buds, from which new shoots will appear in the spring.

Important! When choosing a variety for the garden, it is necessary to take into account both frost resistance and flowering types of clematis. The method of pruning and caring for them will depend on this.

For the north, clematis that form inflorescences on the shoots of the current year are better suited. These include early and mid-early clematis belonging to the Jacqueman, Integrifolia or Viticella groups.

Also for harsh conditions wild forms of clematis, often called princelings, are suitable: Siberian, Okhotsk or Alpine. These are small-flowered clematis with flowers blooming on last year's shoots. Due to their origin, they easily tolerate cold winters, often without requiring shelter.

In the central zone, double-blooming clematis are very popular. They are convenient because if last year’s shoots freeze out in a too harsh winter, you can get flowers from this year’s shoots. These clematis belong to the Florida, Patens and, in part, Lanuginosa groups.

In the south, you can grow late-blooming varieties on last year's shoots, as well as non-winter-hardy clematis originating from the Mediterranean region. These plants need “mild” winters.

Planting, planting and dividing clematis bushes

The difference in planting clematis in spring and autumn is only in the month of planting. The rest of the techniques are exactly the same.

Selecting a location

Clematis is a long-lived plant; it can grow in one place for up to thirty years. Therefore, the choice of landing site must be approached carefully. Clematis requires well-fertilized loam or sandy loam soil, but the acidity of the soil should not be less than six and a half. If the acidity is high, alkali is added to the soil. The most common in this role are lime and ash.

The plant is considered light-loving, but in the south it is better not to plant it in full sun or near objects that can give off additional heat. For example, a stone or iron fence.

The moisture-loving nature of clematis is also relative. Where the bush grows, groundwater should be at a depth of at least one hundred and twenty centimeters. Places with stagnant water are generally not suitable.

Clematis does not need strong winds. The shoots of these plants are fragile, and the flowers are heavy and large. Strong wind will break the whole bush.

You cannot plant clematis under the slope of a roof, from which water will constantly drip onto it. Even in dry weather, dew forms on the roof and flows down in the morning. Clematis growing under such a “shower” will die.

Landing

The method of planting clematis in the fall is no different from planting it in the spring, but it differs from the methods of planting other flowers. When planting clematis, its root collar should be below ground level. The first two buds should also be underground. This method will lead to the fact that clematis will begin to bush much faster, and the roots, being in cool soil, will hurt less.

Attention! Clematis has an impressive root system, so the hole should match it. The depth of the hole is at least two spade bayonets.

If clematis is planted in clay soil, the hole must be filled with a fertile earth mixture of humus, peat, sand and turf soil in equal parts. Peat most often has an acidic structure, so you need to add a glass of lime, a couple of glasses of ash and one hundred and fifty grams of mineral fertilizer to provide the plant with nutrients.

The roots are covered with the mixture, the buds and root collar are covered with a mixture of sand and ash.

Important! Planting, transplanting, propagation by division into autumn time must be carried out in September.

Clematis must have time to take root and stock up on nutrients before frost.

Clematis care in autumn preparation for winter

Autumn care for clematis includes not only pruning and preparation for wintering, but also fertilizing and watering.

Moisture-recharging irrigation

In the fall, plants form new absorbent roots and accumulate nutrients for the winter. If the soil remains dry, the root system will not form properly and the plants may not survive the winter.

In autumn, clematis are watered abundantly. The soil underneath them should be moist. Experienced gardeners use moisture-recharging irrigation. Essentially this means a one-time introduction into the soil large quantity water. The average water consumption for such irrigation is one hundred liters of water per square meter.

Consumption is calculated for well-drained soils with deep groundwater. In each specific case, the issue is resolved individually.

Attention! Water-recharging irrigation in clayey soil or in a place with close groundwater will only do harm.

Watering is carried out in different ways. In heavy, poorly absorbent soil, make holes up to one meter deep around the perimeter of the plant crown. In case of good absorption, it is enough to simply place the hose and periodically change its position in order to saturate the soil under the entire plant, and not just in the area of ​​the trunk. If the soil is sandy and water drains quickly, water is sprayed to evenly moisten the soil.

The time required for such watering can be calculated by collecting water in a bucket. First you need to note the time required to fill the bucket. Such watering is usually carried out in the temperate and northern zones at the end of September.

Important! Even in the case of heavy rains, watering is not canceled.

Even heavy showers unable to restore summer soil moisture losses. Therefore, we put on a raincoat and go water the clematis. The only time when watering should be postponed is during a dry summer, during which the plants even wither. In this case, you need to wait for the leaves to fall so as not to provoke secondary plant growth.

It happens that gardeners spend moisture-charging irrigation in October. The period is far from optimal, since the root system is formed earlier and some of the roots may die without water. The result will be weakened plants next year.

This type of watering is necessary to:

• replenish the lack of moisture after a dry summer;
• help autumn root growth;
• preserve soil heat in winter.
• Wet soil has a greater heat capacity than dry soil.

Solve the problem of spring lack of moisture. In the event that warming occurs too quickly and melt water flows over the still frozen soil without being absorbed. Also in case of snowless or little snow winter.

Attention! When watering clematis, you need to make sure that water does not get on the plant stems and leaves.

Water that gets on them can cause fungal diseases. After watering, the soil around the bush must be loosened to saturate the soil with oxygen and improve its breathability.

Top dressing

Clematis are fed until August, when potassium-phosphorus fertilizer is applied for the last time. In autumn, fertilizing is not recommended.

Transplantation and seating

Considering that clematis can grow in one place for many years, replanting it is usually not recommended. But it happens, it needs to be done. Especially if the plants were initially planted too close, grew and began to interfere with each other. You can replant in spring and autumn. Autumn is preferable. The transplant is carried out in September.

How to plant clematis in autumn

At autumn transplant aboveground stems are cut almost to the ground, leaving no more than two buds. Transplanting a young bush is not a problem. It must be dug up along with the lump and moved to another place.

Much more difficult to transplant old bush. Some even believe that clematis over seven years of age cannot be replanted at all. Can. But clematis has a very powerful root system that goes deep into the ground. It is impossible to dig up such a bush without damaging the roots.

They dig around the bush to a depth of at least two spade bayonets, chop off the roots that go deeper, pull out this hefty ball of roots and try to move it to a new place of residence.

If you cannot lift it, you can wash the roots and separate them with a sharp knife or ax, obtaining several new seedlings. After planting, the shoots must be trimmed to a height of two buds. Typically, propagation by dividing the roots on an old bush is done without even digging it up completely. Because of the size.

Replanting is definitely required if you notice in the summer that the bush is withering. This is wilt - a fungal disease of the roots. The bushes must be dug up and the roots thoroughly washed from the soil. Then transplant the bushes to another place, thoroughly watering the soil with fungicide. Ash must be poured on top of the soil.

Clematis propagation

Clematis can be propagated in four ways: division, autumn layering, cuttings and shoots cut in autumn.

Division

Bushes up to six years old are easy to divide. It is necessary to dig them up, wash them from the soil and cut them into pieces, making sure that each one has developed roots and at least one or two shoots.

Due to their size, old bushes are not even completely dug up. The bush is dug up from one side, the exposed roots are washed with a hose and part of the tuber is cut off. After which the division is planted standard technology and cut the shoots to the first two buds.

Attention! It is necessary to divide clematis bushes at the same time as planting and replanting them.

Autumn layering

Grooves up to eight centimeters deep are dug from the bush. Climatis shoots are placed in the grooves, pinned to the ground and covered with a mixture of humus and peat. The ends of the shoots are left in the air. For the winter, the cuttings are covered with insulating material.

In spring, the grooves must be watered, keeping the soil constantly moist. After the appearance of young shoots, it is better to mulch the ground. In September, young clematis can be planted in permanent places.

Important! Layering is best done in October.

Cuttings

The most physiological and safe method for the plant. In the fall, they select areas on lignified shoots that have one internode and two well-developed buds, and cut them so that in the lower area from the node there is another three to four centimeters of stem, and in the upper one one centimeter.

The cuttings are treated with a growth-stimulating drug and completely buried in a loose, light substrate at an angle to the horizontal.

Important! The lower cut should be at a depth of three centimeters, the upper one at a depth of one centimeter.

Containers with cuttings are stored in the basement until spring, keeping the substrate moist. In the spring, after sprouts appear, young clematis are placed in a greenhouse, gradually increasing the temperature in it. When the sprouts reach a height of ten centimeters, they are pinched to stimulate the growth of the root system. After the end of frost, the sprout can be planted in a permanent place.

Cut shoots

A kind of analogue of propagation by cuttings, but much less troublesome. True, and the least productive way. Suitable only for clematis that form flowers on the shoots of the current year.

A long, well-ripened shoot is rolled up into a ring and buried in the ground, covered with heat-insulating material. Next year, a clematis sprout appears in this place.

Agricultural technology against freezing

If wild species clematis can survive wintering without shelter, but this often cannot be said about garden and hybrids. To protect against freezing, it is better to cover clematis for the winter. Preparing plants for winter is divided into two stages: pruning and covering.

When and how to cover clematis

The principles of covering clematis for the winter are the same. It is recommended to cover them no earlier than the onset of frost. The shelter should protect against moisture during thaws. To protect it from water, pour a couple of buckets of earth under the clematis, making a mound around the bush.

Attention! Clematis stems should not be placed on bare ground.

Place the prepared stems on a bed of pine needles, boards, branches or cut clematis stems. The good thing about needles is that mice, which can make a nest in a shelter, don’t like it. The bad thing is that it must be removed in the spring; it acidifies the soil.

The shoots are placed on a “cushion” and covered with heat-insulating material on top: leaves, spruce branches, and the like. Shelter is closing non-woven material and something waterproof but breathable is placed on top. For example, slate sheets.

There is a temptation to use as a top layer plastic film, but there are pitfalls:

1. Firstly, the film must open the shelter on both sides for ventilation. Due to condensation collecting under the polyethylene, clematis may become moldy.
2. Secondly, the film will have to be shaded; on sunny days the temperature under it will rise sharply, and at night it will drop just as sharply. There are few plants in the world that are comfortable with such changes. Clematis is not one of them.

A good option are specially made boxes in which clematis can be placed in advance, finally closing with the onset of frost.

Pruning before sheltering for the winter

In the first year, clematis of all types of flowering are pruned according to a single pattern: at a height of about twenty to thirty centimeters from the ground, making sure that there are at least two buds on the stem. Such pruning provokes branching of the bush. In subsequent years, clematis should be pruned based on their flowering type.

Pruning: dividing the plant into three groups according to the method of pruning

According to the method of pruning, clematis are divided into three groups. The first includes plants that form flowers on last year's shoots. They are also early bloomers.

Pruning and covering early flowering clematis

1st group

They try not to prune the bushes of this group at all. The lashes can be left up to two meters long. As a rule, the tops of the shoots are cut off, leveling the bush and trellis in height. Remove dried, weak, diseased and unnecessary shoots.

Next, the bush is removed from the trellis and placed on a prepared “cushion” to further cover it for the winter. At first glance, the task of removing this mass from the trellis seems like an impossible task. In fact, it is quite simple if you take care of it in the spring. The bush is tied to the trellis on one side in the spring.

Attention! Do not tangle the stems between the trellis slats.

In the fall, they cut off the leaves that hold the clematis on the trellis, and cut off the ropes that tied the bush in the spring. The bush is free and ready to be laid for the winter, as described above. In the spring you will have to work harder to get it in order before a new garter.

2nd group

The second group includes plants that bloom twice a year. That is, those that form flowers for the first time on last year’s shoots, and the second time on this year’s shoots.

Such plants are pruned at a distance of one hundred and twenty to one hundred and fifty centimeters from the ground. This is easy to do while the bush is still attached to the trellis. The trimmed part is detached from the trellises in exactly the same way as the first group of clematis. The top cut shoots can be used as a “pillow”. Dry and diseased shoots are removed.

3rd group

The third group of late-flowering clematis includes the entire mass herbaceous varieties and some shrubs that form flowers on young shoots that grow in the spring.

Pruning and covering late bloomers

This is the easiest group to trim. Clematis belonging to this group are always cut in the same way as in the first year after planting. Covering them for the winter is also easy. It is enough to cover them with heat-insulating material. They don't need a "pillow".

If you have no idea which group your clematis belongs to, you can use universal pruning. With this pruning, the cutting height of the shoot alternates. The first shoot is cut off at a height of about one and a half meters, the second shoot is left twenty to thirty centimeters above the ground. This way the entire bush is thinned out. U this method has its advantages:

1. Firstly, the bush gradually rejuvenates and there is no need to carry out the recommended rejuvenation on purpose.
2. Secondly, flowers on twice-blooming clematis will be located evenly throughout the bush.

The bottom line is that if all the shoots of plants of the second group are cut at a height of one and a half meters, then in the first flowering the flowers will be below this mark, in the second above.

In the case of universal pruning, the inflorescences of the second flowering, located on shoots grown from short stems, will be less than one and a half meters. Shoots grown from long stems will produce flowers above the one and a half meter mark.

Thus, it can be seen that growing clematis, caring for them in the fall and preparing for winter, despite the external complexity, actually does not pose any special problems. In winter, if clematis are properly covered, they do not need care at all.

A luxuriously blooming clematis mounted on a trellis becomes a wonderful decoration for any yard. In order for flowering to please the eye every year, you need to know how to prepare clematis for winter. The right cover and a light winter will provide a start next spring.

Most perennials in the fall require a number of activities that complete growing season and begin preparations for winter. So, starting from August, nitrogen is excluded from fertilizing, otherwise the plants will begin to grow new ones instead of ripening existing shoots.

In the fall, be sure to water the plants abundantly, and if there is no rain, then even twice. Then the clematis are fed, removed from the supports, trimmed and insulated. Before winter, treat the trunk circle with fungicides to prevent fungal diseases next year.

There are several types of pruning: formative, rejuvenating and sanitary. Autumn pruning combines them all and helps cover the plant for the winter. Best time For her, frost occurs 2–3 weeks before frost. IN different areas it is held from late October to mid-November.

Young plants of the first year of life are pruned at a height of 20–30 cm, leaving only three healthy buds, regardless of the type or variety. This allows not only to properly cover the still weak plant, but also stimulates the growth of side shoots, thanks to which a lush bush will grow next year.

But adult clematis are pruned depending on which shoots produce flowers. Based on this criterion, all varieties are traditionally divided into 3 groups:

1. The first includes varieties that form flowers on last year’s shoots, for example, Turquoise, Hegley Hybrid, Cardinal Rouge, etc. From these plants, only damaged, diseased or very weak shoots are cut out, and the rest are shortened to 1.5 m.
2. Varieties Ball of Flowers, Minister, President, Dawn, Fair Rosamund bloom twice - from the beginning of summer on the shoots of last year, and from July on the shoots of the current year. Such varieties belong to the second group; they are recommended to be pruned at a level of 1–1.3 m from the ground. But experienced flower growers It is advised to trim all healthy shoots one at a time: shorten one to 1.2 m, and the other to 20–30 cm, so that 2–3 buds remain on it. After such pruning, the flowering of the first and second waves will occur at approximately the same height level, which will allow the formation of a beautiful, neat bush.
3. The third group included clematis that bloom only on the shoots of the current year. These are the groups Jacquemman, Integrifolia, Vititsella. Depending on the variety, they are cut in two ways - at a height of 20–30 cm, leaving up to 4 pairs of buds, or almost close to the ground, leaving only 2 buds.

Subsequent feeding

Good preparation for cold weather is feeding mineral fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus. Fertilizers are scattered over the entire area of ​​the tree-trunk circle, lightly embedded in the soil, or dissolved with water and poured into a groove made along the perimeter of the tree-trunk circle. Wood ash, scattered under plants, has proven itself to be effective, both fertilizing them and repelling pests.

Clematis doesn't like acidic soil, That's why pine needles and sawdust coniferous trees, used for insulation (at the same time as repelling rodents), must be removed in the spring when it is time to dismantle the shelter.

Video “Preparing clematis for winter”

From this video you will learn how to properly prepare clematis for the winter.

Variety of hiding places

The shelter of different clematis for the winter should differ depending on their frost resistance, the degree of pruning, and the region of growth. Eat frost-resistant varieties, and there are those who are afraid of even ten degrees of frost. But water can destroy a plant worse than the most severe frost: flooding of the roots during a thaw will bring inevitable death to the plant with the return of frost. Therefore, preparing the bush for wintering correctly means making a hill no lower than 30 cm so that it does not end up in a hollow.

The bushes are covered with earth mixed with dry peat, humus, wood ash. Young clematis should survive their first winter well wrapped, regardless of the degree of frost resistance of the variety.

Of course, it is easier to cover short, heavily pruned bushes. They are hilled up high, wrapped in lutrasil or other non-woven material, a frame is built over them, covered with fallen leaves or covered with spruce branches.

Plants with long shoots are covered using the same principle, only they need to be covered with a hard roof on top so that heavy snow does not collapse the entire shelter, depriving it of ventilation. After pruning at the required height, carefully untie the wires and strings that tied the shoots to the trellis, and use scissors to trim the leaves that are caught on the support for stability.

After this, the plant is wrapped in lutrasil, laid horizontally (having previously hilled up the roots, covering the trunk circle), not on the ground, but on a pillow, the role of which can be played by a board, polystyrene foam, spruce branches, or a trimmed part of the same bush. It is best to build a frame, cover it with insulating material, put a hard roof on top, and fill the space inside with litter, sawdust or pine needles.

The leaves of clematis do not fall off, but are cut off in the spring. Then they carry out sanitary pruning, unravel the shoots, attach them to the trellis only on one side, otherwise they will entangle it too much and it will be impossible to remove it in the fall. It is advisable to place traps for rodents near the plant or to scare them away; for example, mice do not like sharp pine needles.

Focus on geographic zones

The degree of insulation must correspond to the severity of winter and climate conditions. Thus, in the Moscow region and throughout the middle zone, winters are not too severe, but sharp fluctuations in temperature threaten to destroy plants if they dry out during the thaw or water collects in the shelter. Therefore, flower growers have to ventilate clematis, and cover them in such a way that they can be easily opened or wrapped again.

The Volga region is different high humidity. Here the plants need to be hilled high and entire hills piled up at their bases. Some summer residents cover the soil above the roots with polyethylene, and shovel earth, peat, and sawdust onto it.

The harsh conditions of the Urals and Siberia require more thorough insulation. The abundance of snow will protect you from frost, but you must make a frame and a rigid roof so that it does not sag under the weight of the snow. Such conditions require cultivation early varieties, since winter comes quickly, and the shoots of late-flowering clematis do not have time to ripen before frost, which means they may not survive until spring no matter how much shelter they provide.

It is very important not to forget about winter care: during frosts, there should be snow on covered flowers; during thaws, you need to check whether water has accumulated under the plant.

If the ground under the shoots gets wet, put boards, slate, roofing felt on it - any material that will help protect the branches from moisture.