home / Flowers/ Chokeberry, or chokeberry and its secrets. Chokeberry in a summer cottage

Chokeberry, or chokeberry and its secrets. Chokeberry in a summer cottage

Planting and caring for chokeberry (in brief)

Landing: late September to early October or mid to late April.
Bloom: from the second half of May or from the beginning of June.
Lighting: bright sunlight.
The soil: moist, loamy, neutral reaction. Acidic, saline and dry sandy soils are not suitable for chokeberry.
Watering: the most important thing is sufficient moisture at the beginning of the growing season and during the period of fruit formation. Water consumption when watering is 2-3 buckets for each bush.
Feeding: when growing on rich soils, it is enough to dig up the soil in the tree trunk circle with 50 g in the spring ammonium nitrate and mulch the root area with organic matter - compost or humus. On poor soils after spring feeding at the beginning of summer, pour a bucket of mullein solution (1:5) under each bush or bird droppings(1:10), and in the fall add 100 g of superphosphate and half a liter of ash.
Trimming: in the spring.
Reproduction: layering, green and woody cuttings, dividing the bush, grafting and root suckers. Sometimes chokeberry is propagated by seeds.
Pests: brown fruit and red apple mites, green apple aphids, hawthorn moths, rowan moths, cherry slimy sawflies.
Diseases: peripheral wood rot, moniliosis (fruit rot), comb blight, septoria spot.

Read more about growing chokeberry below.

Chokeberry (chokeberry) - description

The chokeberry plant is a winter-hardy, deciduous, highly branched shrub about 3 m high with a root system located close to the surface. At a young age, the crown of the plant is compact, but over the years it can reach a diameter of 2 m. Young shoots have a red-brown tint, but gradually become dark gray. The leaves of chokeberry are simple, entire, elliptical, 4 to 8 cm long, 3 to 5 cm wide, alternate, with crenate-toothed edges. The chokeberry leaf on the upper side of the plate is leathery, shiny, dark green in color, and its lower side is whitish due to pubescence. In the second half of September, rowan leaves begin to acquire purple-red tones. White or pinkish fragrant flowers chokeberries with purple anthers, collected in dense corymbose inflorescences, open in the second half of May or early June. The shiny, spherical fruits of black or purple-black chokeberry with a bluish bloom ripen in August or September. The weight of the fruit of wild chokeberry does not exceed one and a half grams; the fruit of cultivated chokeberry varieties is larger. Chokeberry berries ripen in August or September.

Chokeberry is grown as a fruit, medicinal and ornamental plant. She is a relative of such garden crops like apple, pear, plum, cherry plum, quince, apricot, peach, nectarine, almond, rose hip, hawthorn, cherry and, with which it is united by belonging to the same family. We will tell you how to plant and care for chokeberry in the garden, in what ways it is propagated, what varieties of chokeberry can be grown in the southern region, and which ones are more suitable for the middle zone, what are the benefits of chokeberry and what can be the harm of chokeberry.

Planting chokeberry

When to plant chokeberry.

Like almost everyone fruit and berry plants, it is better to plant chokeberry in the fall - at the end of September or beginning of November, although it takes root well even after spring planting, carried out until the end of April. This crop is undemanding to soil composition - it grows well even on acidic or dry sandy soils. Only saline soils are not suitable for it. If we talk about preferences, then it blooms and bears fruit best in well-lit areas with neutral, moist loamy soil. Since the root system of chokeberry is located at a depth of only 50-60 cm from the surface of the site, the close occurrence of groundwater will not harm it. Most often, chokeberry is planted as a hedge.

Planting chokeberry in spring.

How to choose healthy chokeberry seedlings? When buying chokeberry seedlings, first of all pay attention to the condition of their roots - they must be powerful, healthy and have 2-3 branches at least 25-30 cm long. If the roots look dry and weathered, they may not take root or the seedling will be sick for a long time . The roots of such a seedling need to be kept in water for 2-3 days before planting so that they are saturated with moisture and restore elasticity. If the inside bark of the seedling is green, then the seedling is alive, but if it is brown, do not buy it - it most likely will not take root.

Before planting, cut off diseased, broken and dry roots and shoots on the seedling, then lower root system into a clay mash.

Aronia chokeberry is planted on a cloudy day or in the evening. If you are planting chokeberry as a separate plant, place it at a distance of at least 3 m from other shrubs and trees - this way the rowan will receive even lighting and it will be convenient for you to care for the bush. The depth and diameter of the planting hole should be about 50 cm. The infertile layer of soil removed when digging the hole is mixed with a bucket of humus, 300 g of wood ash, 150 g of superphosphate and the hole is filled with this mixture to a third of the depth, after which the hole is filled to half the volume with soil from the top , fertile layer and pour a bucket of water into it. When the water is absorbed, the seedling with the roots treated with clay mash is placed in the center of the hole so that the root collar is 1.5-2 cm underground. Carefully straighten the roots of the seedling, fill the hole with fertile soil, lightly compact the surface and again water the seedling with the same soil amount of water, and when it is absorbed, mulch the tree trunk circle with a layer of straw, peat or humus 5-10 cm thick. After planting, shorten the shoots of the seedling to 15-20 cm, leaving four to five buds on them.

Planting chokeberry in the fall.

Planting chokeberries in the fall is no different from the spring procedure. Why experienced gardeners Do you prefer to plant chokeberry in the fall? Because over the winter the soil around the seedlings settles and becomes compacted, and the chokeberry quickly grows in the spring.

Growing chokeberry

Chokeberry in spring.

Planting and caring for chokeberry does not contain any subtleties that should be written about. Spring work with bushes begin at the end of March or beginning of April: at this time, sanitary and formative pruning is carried out and the trunks are treated with lime. In April, chokeberries are sprayed against pests and pathogens that have successfully overwintered in cracks in the bark or in the soil under the bushes. In May, when weeds begin to appear from the ground, be vigilant and do not let them take root - remove them immediately.

In spring, chokeberries are fed with nitrogen fertilizers.

Caring for chokeberries in summer.

Caring for chokeberry in summer time when insect pests appear en masse, requires attention: it is very important to monitor the health of the garden, regularly inspecting the plants so as not to miss the onset of a disease or appearance harmful insects. At the first symptoms of pest or disease, treat the chokeberry with appropriate compounds - folk remedies or chemicals.

Despite the fact that chokeberry is drought-resistant, in dry, hot summers it needs watering, after which it is convenient to loosen and weed the area.

How to care for chokeberry in the fall.

The fruits of chokeberry ripen by the end of August, but they need to be collected only after the first frost. In the fall, chokeberry is planted and its seedlings are cared for, which need to be prepared for winter. With the onset of the dormant period, chokeberry is subjected to sanitary pruning and treatment against pests and pathogens that have settled for the winter in the tree bark and the soil under the bushes. Young bushes are planted high, and the trunk circle is covered with dry leaves or spruce branches. Adult plants overwinter without shelter.

Processing chokeberry.

Growing and caring for chokeberry requires preventive treatments against pests and diseases. They are carried out in early spring, before the buds open: the bush is sprayed with one percent Bordeaux mixture. In the fall, after leaf fall, autumn preventative treatment of chokeberry is carried out, using the same drug or similar ones. Instead of Bordeaux mixture, you can treat with a seven percent urea solution - this way you will take preventive measures and feed the bush with nitrogen fertilizer.

Watering chokeberry.

For chokeberry, watering at the beginning of the growing season is very important, especially in the heat in the absence of rain. The next important period for chokeberry from this point of view is the beginning of fruit formation. Water calculation: 2-3 buckets for each bush, depending on the age of the plant. Watering is carried out in furrows made around the bushes at a distance of 30-40 cm from the crown projection.

After moistening the soil, it is convenient to loosen the soil in the tree trunk circle and remove weeds. The first time the soil around the bushes is loosened in early spring, then during the summer another 4-5 loosenings are carried out to a depth of 6-8 cm. It is very important to loosen the soil around the chokeberry bushes after harvesting, and then mulch the area with peat, manure or compost.

Feeding chokeberry chokeberry.

In order to get a good harvest, chokeberry must be fed regularly. On rich, fertile soils, it is enough to apply 50 g of ammonium nitrate under each bush in the spring and mulch the tree trunk with organic fertilizer - manure, compost or humus. If the soil is poor, then after spring fertilizing, at the beginning of summer, under each bush you need to pour a bucket of mullein diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5, or a bucket of bird droppings solution at the rate of 1 part fertilizer to 10 parts water. In the fall, after harvesting, under each chokeberry bush you need to add half a liter of wood ash and 100 g of superphosphate.

Pruning chokeberry

When to prune chokeberry.

If the chokeberry is not pruned, it will grow in width and stretch upward, fruiting will move to the periphery, illuminated by the sun, and barren jungle will form in the middle of the bush. To prevent this from happening, you need to regulate the number of branches and the height of the bush. All chokeberry pruning work should be carried out in the spring.

Pruning chokeberry in spring.

Chokeberry seedlings, as we have already written, are pruned at a height of 15-20 cm in the first spring. After a year, leave several strong branches from the emerging shoots and level all the shoots in height, and cut off the remaining shoots at the base. After a year, add a few more branches from the overgrowth to the bush and carry out leveling pruning. Add several branches from the shoots annually until there are about ten of them, and then you can consider that the chokeberry bush is formed.

Now you need to make sure that the shoots do not grow too thickly - the light must penetrate into the very thick of the bush, otherwise flower buds will not form there, and therefore fruits will not set. To do this, thinning pruning of chokeberry is carried out, combined in purpose with sanitary pruning - competing, low-value, growing inside the crown, as well as diseased, broken and dry shoots are removed from the plant.

In chokeberry, branches under 8 years old are considered productive, and as soon as a branch reaches this age, it must be cut out, and instead a developed shoot from the basal shoots should be left. Try to carry out 2-3 replacements annually, without increasing the diameter of the base of the bush. You need to cut or cut down old branches as close to the ground as possible so that pests or pathogens do not settle in the remaining stumps.

When the whole bush seems old and tired to you, carry out radical anti-aging pruning - cut down all the branches, regardless of their age, and when young growth appears in the place of the old bush, begin to form a new bush from it. You already know how to do this.

Pruning chokeberry in the fall.

If absolutely necessary, you can sanitary pruning chokeberry in the fall, if it turns out that broken branches have appeared after harvesting, or you find shoots affected by pests. Of course, the bush cannot be left in this state for the winter. Thickening shoots can also be removed in the summer so that the plant does not waste energy feeding unnecessary branches. But rejuvenating and formative pruning is carried out only in the spring. Don’t forget to treat thick branches garden varnish.

Propagation of chokeberry

How to propagate chokeberry.

Reproduction of chokeberry occurs generatively (by seeds) and vegetative ways– layering, cuttings – green and woody, dividing the bush, root suckers and grafting. The most commonly used methods for propagating chokeberry are seed propagation and green cuttings.

Propagation of chokeberry by cuttings.

To propagate chokeberry by woody cuttings, one-year-old, well-ripened shoots from two to four year old branches are needed. They are cut in the fall, in the second half of September, so that they have time to take root before frost and overwinter well. Cuttings should have 5-6 eyes, 15-20 cm long. Do not use the upper, immature part of the shoot for propagation. The upper cut on the cutting is made oblique on the bud, and the lower cut is made straight, just under the eye. The cuttings are planted at an angle of 45º at a distance of 10-12 cm from each other, leaving only two buds above the surface, the lower of which should be at surface level. The soil around the cuttings is compressed, watered and mulched with peat.

Propagation of chokeberry by green cuttings is possible only in the presence of a cold greenhouse, which is not at all difficult to build. In a greenhouse, a layer of coarse washed river sand 7-10 cm thick is laid on the dug up clean soil.

Cuttings are taken from healthy bushes - you can cut off the tops of any branches of the bush. The length of the cutting is 10-15 cm. The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings, and the 2-3 upper leaves are shortened, leaving only one third of each. A longitudinal incision is made above each bud; several such incisions are made on the bark in the lower part of the cutting. Then the cuttings are immersed with their lower ends in a solution of a root formation stimulator for 6-12 hours, after which they are washed clean water and planted in a greenhouse - obliquely, at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. After compacting the soil around the cuttings, they are watered through a fine sieve and covered with a transparent dome. There should be a space of at least 20 cm between the dome and the cuttings. The cuttings take root at a temperature of about 20 ºC, and if it rises to 25 ºC, it is necessary to ventilate the cuttings. If the soil is regularly moistened and the required temperature and air humidity are maintained, the cuttings will take root within 3-4 weeks, after which hardening procedures can begin, and after a week and a half, the cuttings are planted in open ground for growing. The survival rate of green cuttings is 70-100%. As soon as the cuttings take root in the open ground, feed them with a solution of 30 g of ammonium nitrate in a bucket of water or a weak solution of slurry. Caring for cuttings in the garden consists of regular watering, loosening the soil and removing weeds. Chokeberry seedlings are planted in a permanent place a year later, next fall.

Seed propagation of chokeberry.

To get chokeberry seeds, you need to rub the ripe fruits through a sieve, then put the seeds in water so that the pulp floats up, rinse and mix the seeds with calcined river sand in a ratio of 1:3, in a wet state, place it in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator for stratification for 90 days. Remember to keep the sand moist at all times. If the seeds begin to hatch before they can be sown in open ground, the temperature should be lowered to 0 ºC. When the soil in the garden is ready for sowing seeds, make grooves 6-8 cm deep in it, sow the seeds in them, cover and mulch the bed with sawdust or humus. When the seedlings form two true leaves, they are thinned out, leaving a distance of 3 cm between the seedlings. The next thinning by a step of 6 cm is done at the stage of development of the seedlings with 4-5 leaves. The last time you need to thin out the seedlings to a distance of 10 cm is next spring. All this time, the bed is watered, the soil is loosened, weeds are removed, and once in the spring, it is fertilized with slurry. The seedlings will be ready for transplanting to a permanent location by the fall of the second year.

Propagation of chokeberry by root suckers.

Every year, root shoots grow around the chokeberry bush. The number of offspring produced depends on the chokeberry variety and the presence of nutrients and moisture. Within a year, the offspring form a root system, and they can be cut off from the mother plant with a shovel and transplanted to a new location. Before transplanting, the shoot of the offspring is shortened to 2-3 buds.

Propagation of chokeberry by layering.

You can propagate chokeberry by arcuate or horizontal layering. To do this, in the spring, they dig up the soil under the bush, select well-developed annual or biennial shoots with strong growth as cuttings, dig furrows under them, lay the shoots in them, secure them in the furrows, and lightly pinch out the tops remaining on the surface. Care for chokeberry layerings like any other: water, carefully loosen the soil around them, remove weeds. When the shoots that have developed from the buds of the layerings reach 10-12 cm in height, they are half-sprinkled with damp soil or humus; after 2-3 weeks, when the shoots once again grow to that height, the procedure is repeated. In the fall, or even better next spring, the cuttings are separated from the bush and transplanted to a permanent place.

Propagation of chokeberry by dividing the bush.

This method is justified if you have to transplant the chokeberry bush to another place. In the spring, before sap flow begins, a rowan bush is dug up, all old branches are removed from it, the root system is cleared of soil and divided with pruners or an ax into the required number of parts, each of which should have developed young roots and 2-3 healthy, strong shoots. The cuts on the roots are sprinkled with crushed charcoal, after which the cuttings are planted in their intended places.

Propagation of chokeberry by grafting.

It is best to use a rowan sapling as a rootstock. The rootstock is wiped from dust and cut at a height of 12 cm from the surface level, after which a deep split is made in the cut through the center. The scion cutting is cut on both sides so that a wedge is formed, which should completely fit into the split of the rootstock. After the scion enters the cleft, treat the sections of the scion and rootstock with garden varnish and wrap the grafting site with budding film. Put a strong one on the seedling plastic bag and secure it tightly below the grafting site - this way you will create the necessary for the fusion of the scion and rootstock Greenhouse effect. You can remove the package in a month.

It is best to vaccinate in the spring, when sap flow begins.

Chokeberry diseases

Among the diseases that affect chokeberry, gardeners most often have to deal with the following:

Peripheral wood rot, caused by honey mushrooms. The disease is controlled with one percent Bordeaux mixture or another fungicide. Severely affected bushes must be destroyed, for which they are dug up with roots and burned.

fruit rot, or moniliosis, from which the berries become soft, turn pale and mummify, and light brown spore-bearing pads appear on their surface. Affected berries, if not removed from the bush, can hang on the branches all winter and in the spring infect young flowers and chokeberry ovaries with moniliosis. As soon as you have discovered the disease, treat the bush with copper oxychloride or the same Bordeaux mixture.

Septoria spot, appears on chokeberry leaves in mid-summer as light brown oval spots with a darker border. As the disease progresses, the tissue inside the spots dries out, cracks and falls out. As a preventive measure, except for spring and autumn processing chokeberry with Bordeaux mixture, it is necessary to collect and burn fallen leaves. If a disease is detected, the bush and the soil underneath it are treated with Abiga-pik or copper oxychloride.

Comber– a fungal disease that occurs on a plant weakened by root rot. The fungus looks like thin leathery brownish-gray or whitish plates. Branches affected by the fungus must be cut out and burned. As a preventive measure, the bush is treated in spring and autumn with Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-pik or copper oxychloride.

In addition to the diseases described, chokeberry is affected by diseases such as bacterial necrosis, or bark cancer, brown spot, verticillium, rust and viral ring spot.

Pests of chokeberry

Pests that attack chokeberry bushes include:

Brown fruit And red apple mites- small insects that can cause serious harm not only to chokeberry, but also to fruit crops such as pear, plum, cherry and apple. Their larvae, appearing after chokeberry flowering in large quantities, feed on the juice of leaves, making punctures in them. After three weeks, the larvae turn into adults, ready to lay larvae on the plant again - several generations of mites develop in one season. The drugs Karbofos, colloidal sulfur, Tedion, Tsidial, Kleschevit and the like will help you cope with the invasion of ticks, which need to be alternated, since the tick’s body is able to develop immunity against them.

Green apple aphid- a small sucking insect that often affects young seedlings. In addition to the fact that it feeds on plant sap, weakening it, aphids, like mites, are carriers of incurable viral diseases. A preventive measure against aphids is to treat the chokeberry before bud break with Bordeaux mixture, Nitrafen, Karbofos, and if insects are found on the plant, it will be necessary to spray the chokeberry with Decis, Metaphos, Biotlin, Ambush, Cyanox or the like.

hawthorn– the caterpillars of this butterfly eat up the buds during their blossoming, then they damage the flowers and leaves of the chokeberry, leaving only veins of them. To protect the chokeberry from the invasion of these pests - and the hawthorn can lay up to 500 eggs at a time - in early spring, before the buds open, the rowan is treated with Bordeaux mixture, Oleocuprite or Nitrafen. Before flowering, chokeberry is sprayed with Zolon, Karbofos or Chlorophos.

Rowan moth– the caterpillars of this insect eat up the rowan fruits, causing them to become covered with dark spots and become bitter. This pest affects not only chokeberry, but also mountain ash, and in some years even apple fruits. The methods of combating rowan moth are the same as those of hawthorn.

Cherry slimy sawfly - a black insect with a shiny abdomen and transparent wings. It appears on chokeberry in early July and manages to severely damage the leaves of the plant before the beginning of autumn. The female sawfly lives no more than a week, but during this time she manages to lay up to 75 eggs under the lower skin of the leaves. The emerging larvae eat the leaves, leaving only a network of veins. Sawflies are destroyed by treating the chokeberry with 20-30 g of Chlorophos dissolved in a bucket of water. Spraying rowan with a solution can cope with the sawfly soda ash or lime.

Types and varieties of chokeberry

There are many varieties of chokeberry. Among them there are excellent domestic and foreign varieties of chokeberry that have proven themselves well in our culture, many of which, in addition to excellent fruiting, are also distinguished by high decorative qualities. The best of them include:

– Nero- a frost-resistant and shade-tolerant variety of German selection with shiny dark green leaves that turn yellow-red in autumn. The berries of this variety collected in clusters are very large, sometimes twice as large as those of other chokeberries. They are also different high content vitamins, minerals and antioxidants
– Viking– a high-yielding and frost-resistant chokeberry variety of Finnish selection with shiny green leaves and equally shiny fruits, larger than blackcurrant berries;
– Black-eyed– unpretentious and very resistant to diseases and pests frost-resistant variety, which is also an excellent honey plant. Its berries, reaching 1 cm in diameter, are distinguished by their lower astringency compared to other varieties;
– Hugin- a winter-hardy and highly decorative variety of Swedish selection, which must be pruned with great care. The Hugin bush reaches a height of 2 m, its leaves are dark green and shiny in spring and summer, turning bright red in autumn. The berries are large, black and shiny.

In addition to those described, the popular Finnish chokeberry varieties Hakkia, Belder and Karhumäki, the Danish Aron variety, the Polish Egerta, Dabrovice, Galicianka, Kutno, Nova Ves, the Belarusian varieties Nadzeya and Venisa and the Russian chokeberry varieties Sibirskaya and Michurina are popular.

Properties of chokeberry - harm and benefit

Medicinal properties of chokeberry.

What are the benefits of chokeberry for the human body? Chokeberry is a real treasure trove of useful substances. It contains beta-carotene, vitamins P, K, C, E, B1, B2, B6, macro- and microelements manganese, boron, fluorine, iron, iodine, molybdenum and copper, sugars, pectins and tannins. Chokeberry fruits contain twenty times more vitamin P than oranges and twice as much as black currants. The balanced combination of biological substances in chokeberry berries enhances their healing properties.

Fresh chokeberry berries and juice from them are used not only for treatment, but also for the prevention of atherosclerosis and hypertension, since they have vasodilating, antispasmodic, hemostatic, hematopoietic and capillary-strengthening properties. They are also prescribed to patients with certain vascular diseases that are accompanied by tissue fragility - capillary toxicosis, scarlet fever, measles, eczema, allergic vasculitis, since the medicinal properties of chokeberry help strengthen the walls of blood vessels, restoring their elasticity.

Chokeberry berries increase immunity, have a positive effect on the endocrine system, lower blood cholesterol levels, and normalize blood pressure.

It is recommended to eat chokeberry when diabetes mellitus, diseases thyroid gland, it is prescribed as a diuretic for allergies, kidney disease and typhus. It helps improve digestion, increases appetite and gastric acidity, promotes the formation and outflow of bile, and activates liver function.

Pectins, which are part of chokeberry berries, remove radioactive substances, heavy metals and pathogenic microorganisms from the body, normalize intestinal function, and relieve spasms.

Eating chokeberry berries reduces emotional imbalance by regulating the processes of excitation and inhibition.

Burns are treated with fresh chokeberry juice.

We bring to your attention several recipes from chokeberry:

– chokeberry tincture with cloves: gently mash 1 kg of berries in a jar with a wooden pestle, add half a kilogram of sugar, three buds of cloves, mix, cover with gauze and leave at room temperature for two days, then pour 1 liter of vodka into the jar, cover it with a nylon lid and leave in a dark place for two months, then strain and bottle. Store the finished liqueur in a cool place;
– general strengthening drink: pour 20 g of dry chokeberry berries with a glass of boiling water and heat for 5-10 minutes in a water bath, then let the broth cool and strain, not forgetting to squeeze out the berries. Take 100 g 3-4 times a day;
– vitamin tea: pour 2 tablespoons of dried chokeberry berries with two glasses of boiling water, heat at low simmer for 10 minutes, remove from heat and let steep for several hours. Drink this tea three times a day with honey or sugar.

Chokeberry - contraindications.

Due to the fact that chokeberry contains a large amount of vitamin C, its abuse in patients with hypertension and angina pectoris can increase blood clotting and lead to the formation of blood clots. That is why it is contraindicated for thrombophlebitis.

People diagnosed with hyperacid gastritis (gastritis with high acidity), duodenal or gastric ulcers should also refrain from consuming chokeberry berries and juice.

Uncontrolled and excessive use of this product can cause trouble even for healthy people. If you have any doubts about whether you can eat chokeberries, consult your doctor.

Chokeberry (chokeberry)– fruit bush or a tree of the rose family. It is cultivated as a medicinal, food and ornamental plant. North America is considered the homeland of chokeberry.

Propagation of chokeberry by cuttings

The crop is propagated by seeds and vegetatively; with any method, mountain ash retains the characteristics of the mother plant and varietal characteristics. Most often, when growing chokeberry, seed propagation is used and green cuttings, these methods are considered the most effective.

Did you know? The famous winemakers of the early 20th century, Smirnov and Shustov, made a tincture from chokeberry. According to legend, the Nezhinsky rowan variety was used in production, but the name was changed to Nezhinsky rowan in order to misinform competitors.

Lignified cuttings

To propagate chokeberry using woody cuttings, last year's shoots are taken from an adult bush. The shoots are cut in the second ten days of September so that the plant has time to take root before frost.

The cut at the top is made at an angle, and at the bottom it is straight. The cutting size is up to 20 cm, each should have up to six buds. The cuttings are planted in the ground at an angle, leaving only a couple of buds on the surface. The distance between plantings is up to 12 cm. After watering, the soil around the planted cuttings is mulched.

Green cuttings

To successfully grow green cuttings, it is important to know how to cut cuttings and provide conditions for rooting. The cuttings will be planted in a cold greenhouse; prepare the soil for planting: a mixture of garden soil with compost and wood ash.

Cuttings are cut from young branches of the plant up to 15 cm long. Leaves are removed in the lower part, two or three leaves in the upper part are shortened by a third. Several cuts are made on the bark of the lower part of the cutting, and one in the upper part under the bud.

Before planting the chokeberry, the lower part of the cutting is dipped into a root formation stimulator for eight hours, then planted at an angle in a greenhouse. The distance between plants is at least 4 cm. After planting, the soil should be watered by sprinkling and the greenhouse covered.

The optimal temperature for rooting is 20 ° C; if it is much higher, open and ventilate. The soil must be constantly moistened. After ten days, the cuttings can be planted in open ground.

The rowan tree is transplanted to a permanent location the following autumn. Caring for cuttings involves constant watering, loosening the soil and weeding to remove weeds; seedlings can be hilled.

Seed propagation of chokeberry

To obtain seeds, rub the rowan berries through a sieve, place them in water to separate the pulp, and rinse.

Important! To ensure a high percentage of germination, rowan seeds need stratification.

Calcinate the sand and mix the seeds with it, put them in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf for three months. The sand must be damp at all times.

At the end of April, sowing can be done. In the selected area, make grooves up to 8 cm deep, sow seeds, and cover with soil. Mulch the bed with humus.

Grown chokeberry seedlings can be replanted from seeds next fall. Until this moment, provide them with regular watering, feeding with slurry and loosening.

When the sprouts hatch two or three leaves, thin them out, leaving strong ones, the distance between them should be up to 3 cm. After five leaves appear, thin out again, leaving 6 cm between seedlings. Next spring, thin out to 10 cm between shoots.

Chokeberry grafting

The vaccination procedure is carried out in the spring. When propagating chokeberry by grafting, a common rowan seedling is used as a rootstock.

The rootstock shoot is cut at a distance of 12 cm from the soil surface; a deep cut is made at the cut site, splitting for the scion. The scion shoot is cut wedge-shaped to form a split. After the scion has coincided with the rootstock, the grafting site must be treated with garden varnish and wrapped with film.

When grown by grafting, chokeberry requires a greenhouse effect: use a plastic bag, securing it under the grafting site. After thirty days, remove the package.

Attention! After seven years of fruiting, the plant needs to thin out the crown. Older trees and shrubs are pruned to soil level, stimulating them to grow new shoots.

The root system of rowan is superficial and grows quickly, occupying the area under the crown. In the spring, while there is no active development, the plant is dug up and divided into parts, removing old shoots. Each division should have young, strong roots and several young branches. Treat the cut areas with charcoal.

How to plant and grow rowan by dividing the bush? To the bottom landing hole add humus and superphosphate. Place the seedling in the hole, cover it with soil, lightly tamp it down and water it. Leave a distance of two meters between seedlings. Care for a young seedling as for an adult bush.

Interesting! Rowan was considered a witch's plant among many peoples. The ancient tribes of the Celts, Scandinavians and Slavs used the plant in magical rituals and in the manufacture of amulets.

Propagation of chokeberry by layering

Chokeberry propagation by horizontal layering is carried out in the spring. Under the selected bush, dig up the soil to a depth of half a shovel. Last year's strong shoots with young growths are placed in a dug ditch.

To prevent the branch from rising, it is secured with staples and the top of the branch is pinched. The cuttings are cared for in the same way as an adult bush: watered and weeded to remove weeds. This is the easiest way to grow rowan from a branch.

After young shoots 12 cm long grow from the buds of the cuttings, they are sprinkled with humus. After some time, when the shoot grows another 12 cm, sprinkle it again. It is better to replant to a permanent place, separated from the donor plant, next spring.

Most plants grown from seeds are relatively the same in terms of bush morphology, leaves, yield, size, shape and color of fruits. However, among a large number of bushes of the same type, you can find more productive specimens, with more large fruits, which indicates the promise of analytical selection and subsequent vegetative propagation of selected forms.

Propagation by seeds

In order for their embryos to begin to grow, long-term pre-sowing preparation of seeds - stratification - is necessary. There are often cases when, due to ignorance of the peculiarities of stratification, the work of nursery growers is wasted - there are no seedlings in the year of sowing and, at best, appear sparsely only the next year.

When chokeberry fruits are processed into juice, seeds are also obtained. The fruits, washed with clean running water, are first fed into a crushing machine, which crushes them into pieces 0.5-0.6 cm in size. Then, to extract the juice, the pulp is loaded into a press. To extract juice from the pressed mass more completely, it is placed in vats and filled with water at the rate of 15-20 liters per 100 kg of pulp. After infusing for 8-10 hours, the pulp is again passed through a crusher and pressed. Immediately after repeated spinning, they begin to wash the seeds from the pulp, using sieves with cells with a diameter of no more than 0.1 cm. Complete separation of the seeds from the pulp is possible only after it has dried. Depending on the weather, the pulp is dried in the air in the shade or in a dryer with artificial heating at a temperature of 30-35°. The pulp is spread on a tarpaulin in a layer of 5-7 cm and, for more uniform drying, it is periodically mixed, and then passed through a winnowing fan or winnowed in the wind. The peeled seeds are air-dried, scattered in the shade in a layer of 0.4-0.5 cm. The moisture content of the dried seeds should be no higher than 15%. The yield of chokeberry seeds does not exceed 0.5-0.7% of the weight of the fruit. The seeds are poured into bags made of thick fabric, in wooden boxes or barrels are placed in storage before being stored for stratification, where the temperature is maintained from 0 to 5°, and the relative humidity is within 50-70%. In hermetically sealed containers, for example in bottles, rowan seeds are well preserved even at variable temperatures from -20 to +25°.

Rowan seeds are relatively small - average length 3 mm, width 1.3 mm, thickness 1.5 mm, full-bodied. The absolute weight of 1000 seeds is 3.2-3.4 g, their number in 1 kg is 28-30 thousand.
The viability of seeds before stratification is determined by staining the embryos with indigo-carmine (Nelubov's method). After stratification, to clarify the seeding rate, the germination of seeds and their economic suitability are determined in laboratory conditions.

Seed stratification. For complete stratification of chokeberry seeds, a period of at least 3-4 months is required. Seeds of 200-300 g are packaged in bags made of loose fabric and soaked in fresh clean water for 24 hours room temperature. Soaking rowan seeds shortens the time for their stratification. After soaking, the seeds are laid out on racks and kept at a temperature of 12-14° for 7-10 days. The height of the layer of seeds in the bags should be uniform and not exceed 1.5-2 cm. To prevent the seeds from drying out, the bags are covered on all sides with a thin layer of moderately moistened moss. Then the bags with seeds are placed in a box, on the bottom of which pieces of ice are preliminarily laid in a layer of 20-25 cm. Boxes of the following sizes are very convenient: length 2 m, width 0.7 and height 0.6 m. To ensure drainage of water formed during melting ice, the bottom of the boxes should be truncated with a groove. The boxes are installed on four legs at a height of 0.8-1.0 m from the floor surface. To give a slope that allows water to drain, a block of wood is placed under one pair of legs. The bags should not come into contact with each other or with the walls of the box, so when laying them, they are evenly layered with pieces of ice. The box is installed in a room in which the temperature is maintained no higher than 2-3°.

Under such conditions, the ice melts slowly. Stratification in melting ice ensures not only a constant temperature regime, but also uniform seed moisture and free access of oxygen.

It is necessary to take into account that by the end of the first month of stratification, mucus appears on the seeds, which complicates their further aeration, so the bags with seeds should be periodically rinsed in warm water until the mucus is completely removed.

After being in ice, the bags of seeds are again laid out on racks and kept for 7-10 days at a temperature of 12-14 °, and then placed again in boxes with ice. Treatment of seeds with variable temperatures continues for 3/2-2 months, after which they are again placed in ice, where they are kept for one month. During the period of stratification in ice, the number of hatched seeds increases significantly and by the end of the period reaches 60-70%.

Continued exposure of seeds to ice, especially when the air temperature in the room rises, can cause them to grow prematurely, especially those that sprouted first. Therefore, from the end of March until sowing, the seeds are stored in a snow pile. Before being taken out into the pile, bags of seeds are placed in boxes or baskets and evenly layered with pieces of ice. Place the seeds in a pile during thaws to avoid freezing. Covering the pile evenly on top with a thick layer of sawdust or straw prevents snow from melting when the weather gets warmer and helps prevent seed growth.

Chokeberry seeds are characterized by slow germination even after complete stratification. Thus, seeds hatched in laboratory conditions, when placed in germinating containers, germinate on the 4-5th day, and in the field - on the 9-10th day after sowing. The bags with seeds removed from the pile are laid out on racks, and immediately before sowing, the seeds are poured out of the bags and lightly ventilated.

Preparing the soil for sowing seeds. For a school of chokeberry seedlings, the best, most fertile areas with a light soil texture are selected. Before plowing, the soil is generously amended with organic fertilizers. Fertilizer is evenly distributed over the surface of the site using manure spreaders. The plowing depth should not exceed 20-25 cm, since deeper placement of fertilizers makes it difficult for seedlings to absorb them. The soil is prepared using the black steam system, while turning Special attention to destroy weeds and accumulate moisture. Before sowing, the soil is cultivated with simultaneous cultivation to level the surface. This promotes the emergence of friendly shoots.

Sowing schemes. As already noted, chokeberry seeds require lengthy pre-sowing preparation, so they are sown only in the spring. Autumn sowing does not give positive results. Depending on the method of growing seedlings, different sowing schemes are used. At direct route It is possible to obtain fully developed seedlings with a fibrous root system.

When growing two-year-olds and replanting them at one year of age, the seeds are sown with a four-line tape with distances between lines of 20 cm, and between tapes of 60 cm.
In the fall, during the first year of seedling growth, the two middle rows are removed. Thus, the remaining rows throughout the entire school area are located at a distance of 60 cm from one another. The dug up plants are planted for growing in a separate area.

When growing seedlings with transplantation from 1 hectare, you can get 2-3 times more one-year-olds than with the non-transplantation method, however, the yield of two-year-olds from the first selection in the first case turns out to be significantly less than in the second, respectively 50 and 70% of the total number of dug up plants.

For small batches of seeds, it is better to sow them in nurseries, followed by picking the seedlings onto ridges in the phase of two true leaves.

Seeding rate. The seeding rate depends on the quality of the seeds, as well as the sowing pattern. So, with a seed germination rate of 90% and single-row sowing with row spacing of 90 cm per 1 hectare of school, 5-6 kg of seeds will be required, and with double-row sowing according to the 20X20X70 cm pattern - 10-12 kg. If the quality of seeds decreases, the seeding rate must be increased in accordance with their germination, purity and viability. For example, if the germination rate of seeds at 100% purity turns out to be 70%, then the seeding rate per 1 ha for single-row sowing with row spacing of 90 cm must be increased to 6.5-7.8 kg, and with a germination rate of 50% - to 9-11 kg . Seed consumption during sowing can be controlled based on the fact that per 1 linear. m requires 0.5 g of seeds (with 90% germination).

Sowing seeds. Sow seeds in furrows 6-7 cm deep, which are cut with hoes along a cord or using a cultivator with loosening paws. This is done as follows: loosening spear-shaped paws are installed on the cultivator, according to the accepted sowing scheme. To make the furrows deeper, the ends of the paws are shortened by half. It is necessary to achieve strict parallelism of the furrows, since without this condition, mechanized tillage in the inter-row spaces of the school is impossible. The unit makes the first run along the markers, marked strictly in a straight line, and subsequent runs - according to the trail indicator of the marker.

Seeds are sown at the bottom of the furrow at a distance of 0.7-1.0 cm from one another. First, they are covered with a 0.5 cm layer of earth, and then mulched with a 1.0 cm layer of humus mixed with granulated superphosphate. The mixture is prepared immediately before use by adding 3 kg of superphosphate for each quintal of humus. Even a slight increase in the depth of seed placement leads to negative consequences - seedlings appear late and sparsely. With a rational organization of the work process, it is possible to achieve high labor productivity in sowing chokeberry.

Sowing must be carried out in early dates when the topsoil is still sufficiently moist. In this case, rowan seedlings appear together and develop quickly.

Caring for seedlings. Significant damage to rowan seedlings can be caused by flea beetles, the damage of which can be easily determined by the nature of the holes in the leaves. When 1-2 true leaves appear, the seedlings are pollinated with 12% DDT dust or 12% hexachlorane dust at the rate of 30-60 kg per 1 ha. If necessary, repeat pollination.

Obtaining a high yield of chokeberry seedlings that meet the standard is impossible without timely thinning.

To stimulate the growth of seedlings, organo-mineral fertilizers are used, which is especially necessary on poor old arable soils.

At small sizes Fertilizers are scattered on the surface by hand and incorporated into the soil by hoeing.

Recommended sowing schemes make it possible to mechanize the application of fertilizers using plant-feeding cultivators. If the soil moisture is high enough, there is frequent precipitation, or the school can be irrigated by sprinkling, fertilizers can be applied in dry form superficially.

In dry weather, 30-40 days after the first fertilizing, it is advisable to apply fertilizing from a mixture of organic mineral fertilizers.

Fertilizer is applied using plant-feeding cultivators directly into the soil to a depth of 6-8 cm at a distance of 8-9 cm from the plants. If this work is carried out manually, then furrows are first made along the rows with hoes. After watering, they are immediately covered with earth.

The third fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers at the rate of 30 kg of active substance at a concentration of 0.2% is carried out during the period of seedling growth - in late July - early August. For the growth of seedlings in in this case, especially in areas with insufficient rainfall in summer period, higher value have irrigation.

If dry weather sets in, the transplanted seedlings are watered.

Further care of the plants consists of carefully removing weeds, loosening the soil and fertilizing with fertilizers. During the growing season, two weedings are carried out in the rows and three cultivations of the row spacing are carried out.

Digging up seedlings. Two-year-old seedlings are dug up during the autumn leaf color period. It must be taken into account that biennial plants chokeberries have a long growing season and shed their leaves relatively late - in Altai usually in the second half of October. Due to the fact that digging often occurs at the end of September - beginning of October, the leaves of the seedlings are snatched off.

When sampling, seedlings are sorted. 50-100 seedlings of the first or second selection are tied into separate bundles and taken to the digging area. To facilitate accounting for the labor of workers, a label should be attached to each bunch of seedlings indicating the name of the worker, the number of seedlings and their disassembly.

Seedlings of the third selection are left in the nursery for further growing. For better survival, the above-ground part of these seedlings should be cut to 2/3 of the length before planting.

Reproduction by horizontal layering and hilling of the bush

Good planting material can be obtained by bending rowan shoots like horizontal layering, as is done when propagating currants or gooseberries.

To do this, high-yielding bushes are isolated or mother plots from selected forms are used. Such bushes are thinned out a year before bending, which promotes increased growth of stem shoots. In autumn, by the time growth ends, stem shoots can reach a length of 60-80 cm, and individual ones - up to 1 m. For bending, it is advisable to use only well-developed annual or biennial shoots in the peripheral part of the bush.

You should not shorten the shoots before bending them down, since the apical buds produce the best seedlings with the most developed root system. Fertilizer and watering promote their rapid rooting and growth.

The first sprinkling of soil is carried out at a time when the shoots reach a height of 5-8 cm. The thickness of the layer of soil during the first sprinkling should be at least 3-4 cm. Carrying out the first sprinkling of layering with a great delay significantly reduces the yield and reduces the quality of planting material. When the shoots reach a height of 10-12 cm, the powder is repeated, and the layer of soil should not be more than 4-5 cm. If the weather has been dry for a long time before the second sprinkle, then the grooves with layering are watered and then mulched with humus or peat.

The long-term production experience of the Lesnoye state farm shows that the yield and quality of planting material when propagating rowan by layering can be significantly increased if liquid nitrogen fertilizers are applied under the mother bushes, the soil is loosened in a timely manner and weeds are removed.

In autumn, the cuttings are carefully separated from the mother bush. Usually, from one strong layer you can get 3-5 rooted annuals, which, however, are unequal in the strength of root development. The resulting seedlings are sorted according to the strength of their development. The first analysis includes seedlings obtained from the apical bud with the most developed root system, which can be used for planting in a permanent place. Seedlings with two or three main root branches, but with a weaker branch than the first branch, are classified as the second branch. The remaining seedlings are assigned to the third analysis. Seedlings from the second and third selections are planted for growing in the nursery.

Chokeberry seedlings can also be obtained by hilling the base of the bush with earth. The latter method, although less effective than the first, does not require large expenses. However, most of the resulting seedlings have weak roots and require growing in a nursery.

Propagation by green cuttings

At optimal conditions rowan cuttings even without pre-treatment growth substances take root by 90-96%. They have the highest rooting capacity when harvested during the period of light lignification. The rooting rate of cuttings when harvested sequentially at different times gradually decreases.

In cuttings taken from young plants, the process of root formation and rooting is much faster.

Cuttings are taken on the day of planting. The lower leaves - one or two (according to the number of internodes) are removed, and top sheet Leave whole or cut in half. Before planting, the cuttings prepared in this way are placed in containers with water and shaded. In case of poor rooting, growth substances are used.

To plant cuttings, use empty cold nurseries or greenhouses previously occupied by seedlings of vegetable and flower crops. From greenhouses and nurseries, soil and part of the manure are selected to a depth of 15-20 cm, and 10-15 cm of fresh turf soil mixed in equal proportions with humus are added.

If there are no greenhouses or nurseries on the farm for planting cuttings, nurseries of a simplified type are built. IN suitable place They dig a pit up to 160 cm wide, based on the use of standard greenhouse frames. The depth of the pit should be at least 18-20 cm. Earth is poured into the pit and fenced with boards 25-30 cm high.

Before planting the cuttings, greenhouses or nurseries prepared in this way are moistened until the substrate is completely saturated. The cuttings are planted vertically to a depth of 1.5-2.0 cm at a distance of 3X5 cm. With this planting scheme, about 1000 cuttings can be placed under one greenhouse frame. The parts of the greenhouse occupied by cuttings are gradually covered with whitened frames. It is even more advisable to use gable shelters with a transparent synthetic film, which are very simple in design. In this case, a canopy is built over the nursery for shading with shingle shields.

Cuttings, especially in the first days after planting, must be systematically cared for. The nurseries are watered periodically, at first 3-4 times a day, preferably through a sprayer using a manual sprayer or automatic devices. This prevents the cuttings from being washed out of the sand, which happens when watering from a watering can. With a single watering, 4-5 liters of water are consumed on the greenhouse frame. In cloudy, rainy weather, nurseries are watered less frequently. How high humidity promotes the development of mold. If mold appears, the nurseries are ventilated by raising the frames one at a time to a small height. The temperature in the nurseries is maintained within 20-25°, which is achieved by timely shading and ventilation.

As roots form, they are gradually accustomed to the outside air. To do this, raise one end of two or three greenhouse frames for a short time. The frames are then left elevated for longer periods of time. As a result of this preliminary preparation, the plants become so accustomed to the outside air that it becomes possible to remove the frames from the nurseries. The frames should be removed in cloudy weather, when the change in conditions will be less noticeable. From this time on, the rooted plants are taken care of as usual - weeding and watering are repeated as needed. To the moment autumn transplant on ridges, plants have well-branched roots and shoots. From under one greenhouse frame you can get 900-980, and from 1 sq. m of nursery - 480-510 seedlings.

However, there are cases where green cuttings without the use of growth stimulants give low rooting.

Propagation by lignified cuttings. Chokeberry can also be propagated from lignified cuttings.

In areas where chokeberry is a cover crop, shoots for cuttings are cut in late autumn before the bushes bend down. The shoots are tied into bunches and stored in a snow pile during the winter.

Reproduction by grafting. Chokeberry can be propagated by any of the known grafting methods, using ordinary rowan as the main rootstock. Propagation of rowan by grafting can also be used in amateur gardening.

When grafting chokeberry with cuttings on adult plants common rowan Most often, grafting is used in the butt or behind the bark.

" Rowan

The significance of chokeberry - the medicinal properties of the fruit, which occupy a leading position in antioxidant content.

The crop has special genetics that contribute to high and stable yields even with minimal care.

Chokeberry- the result of crossing chokeberry and mountain ash.

Area natural look Aronia - swamps, sandy plains and mountain slopes of North America. It's unsightly and low growing shrub, which is radically different from the well-known chokeberry.

The shrub owes its cultivation and popularity in Russia to the Russian breeder I.V. Michurin. As a result of numerous experiments and practical tests a completely new crop was obtained - chokeberry.

Thanks to its high winter hardiness, disease resistance, and unpretentiousness to climatic and soil conditions, the shrub quickly spread over vast areas.

To grow chokeberry, you need to choose well-lit areas. The shrub will develop painlessly in the shade, but the yield and quality of the fruit will decrease significantly.

Lowlands are good, where the groundwater depth is no more than 2 m. This is distinguished by the relatively shallow occurrence of plant roots, the bulk of which are located up to 60 cm, and tap roots rarely reach a depth of 2 meters.

With a lack of moisture in the root layer, the winter hardiness and productivity of the shrub decreases.

Chokeberry develops well on different types soil: chernozems, gray forest soils, drained peat bogs, soddy-podzolic soils. Rocky, swampy and saline soils are absolutely unsuitable for its cultivation.

Chokeberry can be planted in a combined hedge or as a solitaire plant to decorate a spacious area.

This is a good option to strengthen ravines or the perimeter of a personal plot located along a cliff or river mouth.

Selection of seedlings and varieties of chokeberry

Scientist-breeders have introduced many varieties and hybrids of chokeberry. Popular varieties:

Hakkiya;
Black-eyed;
Rubina;
Kutno;
Viking.

Their signs are almost similar, there are minor differences in taste qualities and timing of fruiting.

That's why the main criterion when choosing a seedling should be purchasing planting material adapted to the conditions of the region.

To plant you need to purchase one or two-year-old seedling , it is important to pay attention to quality indicators.

These are: height up to 1.3 m, healthy bark without signs of damage, developed tap roots of at least 25 cm with a mass of overgrown roots.

The productive period of chokeberry in the middle zone is 25-30 years. All this time it has been characterized by stable and high productivity.

Therefore, to provide one family with fruits, it is enough to plant 1-2 bushes, which will begin to bear fruit in 2-3 years.

When to plant: autumn or spring?

Chokeberry can be planted in spring or autumn. The most preferable for the development of seedlings and gardeners is autumn planting. At this time, you can buy planting material from fresh roots at a favorable price.

IN middle lane chokeberry planted from mid-September to the third ten days of October. During this period, the shrub gradually enters a state of relative dormancy, but its roots will develop until the soil temperature drops to -4°C.

Therefore, in the spring the plant will immediately begin to increase its vegetative mass. This gives a great advantage to seedlings planted in autumn, which are more than 20 days ahead of plants planted in spring.

Autumn planting can be considered a relatively minor disruption to the natural development of shrubs, which is why they are more winter hardy. The same cannot be said about spring seedlings that undergo a long storage period.

The benefits of autumn planting for the gardener- saving time, the plant will not need additional care other than shelter for winter.

When planting in spring it will be necessary to control the likelihood of return frosts, exposure to dry winds and temperature changes.

Regardless general recommendations When planting a seedling, you need to focus on the average temperature indicators of the region. You can plant at least 20 days before the first frost.. If the deadline is missed, the seedling needs to be buried in the ridge until spring.

In spring, the plant is planted before buds open. when the air temperature warms up to +15°C.

How to plant: stages of work

The planting hole and substrate for the seedling are prepared in advance, preferably 1-2 months in advance. During this time, the soil mixture is structured, and nutritional elements will take on forms that are easily digestible by plant roots. Optimal size pits 60x60x50 (cm), planting pattern - 2.5x4 (m).

To prepare the substrate, you will need the top layer of soil removed while digging the hole. It is supplemented with components:

humus or compost 2 buckets;
superphosphate 120 g;
potassium sulfate 60 g.

A drainage layer of broken brick or crushed stone is laid at the bottom of the pit, no more than 15-20% of the total volume.

Before planting, the seedling needs to be inspected again. If damaged roots are found, the problem areas are cut off to healthy skin, and the dried ones are placed in water for 10 hours.

For better survival, the roots are dipped in mash made from fatty clay, mullein and water.

In order for chokeberry to take root and grow well, it needs to be planted deeper than it grew in the nursery. This is necessary to deepen the root shoots (awls) growing from the root collar.

In light soils, the seedling is buried by 6 cm, in heavy soils by 2-3 cm.. Thus, after the soil shrinks, the root collar of the shrub should remain 1-3 cm below the ground level.

The roots are covered with soil mixture, periodically shaking the stem to avoid the formation of voids. After compacting the tree trunk circle and watering the seedling, you need to form a layer of mulch. The following are suitable for this purpose: peat, sawdust, mown grass or wood chips.

After planting, the above-ground part of the seedling is cut off, leaving only 20 cm in length.. When planting in autumn, the procedure is postponed until spring and carried out until the buds open.

Care after landing

The shrub's maintenance requirements are minimal. Besides it is rarely affected by pests and diseases. This makes it especially attractive for growing in the country, where the presence of a gardener is not constant.

Shelter for the winter

A seedling planted in the fall needs to be prepared for the first winter season. For this he is bent to the ground and pressed down with boards. It is important to do this until the air temperature drops to -1°C—2°C.

Otherwise, the stem of the bush will lose elasticity and may break. While bending the bush it is important to ensure that the height of the arc does not exceed 20 -30 cm.

Additionally the seedling is covered with spruce branches, and the mulch layer is made higher. In winters with little snow, the bush is covered with snow.

In the spring, when a stable temperature has established, the plant needs to be straightened. If you keep it bent down for a long time, the apical shoots can prop up.

Do shoots need to be trimmed?

A feature of chokeberry is the rapid formation of shoots, which leads to a strong thickening of the crown. Therefore, the root shoots of young bushes are removed annually, leaving only 5-6 that are stronger and growing in the right direction.

For the right balance between stability and yield an adult shrub should have 30-50 strong trunks.

Sanitary pruning consists in removing old, rotten and bare branches. Shrub lays fruit buds on annual shoots, so they should not be shortened.

To increase the productivity and lifespan of the shrub, every 3-4 years you need to carry out anti-aging pruning. During the procedure, chokeberry shoots are shortened by half their height.

Top dressing

Chokeberry responds well to fertilizing that needs to be done twice a year. To do this, the following must be embedded into the tree trunk circle per 1 m2:

ammonium nitrate 20 g (in spring);
potassium salt 20 g, superphosphate 30 g (autumn).

Gives good results foliar feeding of shrubs after flowering when fruits begin to set. To do this, it is sprayed with an aqueous solution of urea (20g/10l).

With the accumulation of excessive amounts of nitrogen, the growth and duration of formation of root shoots increases. In young shoots, the bark does not have time to become lignified and the apical bud does not form.

This leads to severe freezing even in the most favorable winter. That's why in the second half of the growing season, nitrogen fertilizing should not be done.

Watering and loosening the soil

Chokeberry is a moisture-loving crop. Watering is especially important for it at the beginning of the growing season and during fruit formation.

In persistent hot weather, the bush is watered every week. The water requirement for an adult shrub is 30 liters.

To do this, you can make watering furrows at a distance of 30-40 cm from the trunks of the bush. With this method, water will penetrate to all the roots of the plant.

Twice a season it is necessary to loosen the soil in the tree trunk circle, while removing weeds. The autumn procedure is especially important.

Excessive soil compaction contributes to severe soil freezing in the root layers, which significantly reduces the winter hardiness of the shrub.

Prevention of diseases and pests

After harvesting and in the spring before buds open, the shrub must be treated with fungicides. For this it is sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

The shrub is resistant to pests. The reason for the spread of insects to chokeberry can be a massive infestation of the area by pests.

In these cases, you need to take a drastic measure - spraying with chemicals.

Chokeberry fruits are good for culinary preparations and are especially valuable for their medicinal properties. The shrub is also attractive for its decorative properties.

Plant hedge will transform the background of the garden plot three times a year, ranging from white color during flowering to purple leaves in late autumn.

Planting and caring for chokeberry:

Chokeberry - cultivation and care

The hole is filled with a mixture of fertilizers, after which the seedling is lowered into it. When planting a shrub, the root neck must be deepened by 1.5 cm. Afterwards, the seedling should be watered with a bucket of water and a mulch layer of dried soil should be made, sawdust, as well as a small amount of humus.

Belder; Lake carry out disease prevention and pest control. Choice of location In drought and on sandy soils, chokeberry must be watered to moisten the soil layer up to 50 cm. If watered Propagation by dividing the bush is used mainly in this way when transplanting bushes from an old site to a new place. During the entire growing period, the soil is loosened and weeded, and in dry weather the soil is watered abundantly. Propagation by green cuttings Seeds are planted in the fall, in September-October (immediately after collecting the seeds) or in the spring, as soon as the soil allows ( collected seeds in the fall for the winter they are placed in damp sand and stored until spring in the basement). possible pests and diseases, as well as protecting crops from birds.

After the chokeberry is planted, it is important to trim the bush to 4 buds (at a distance of up to 20 cm from the ground). This is a method known among agronomists, which gives good plant growth in the next year after planting.

Egerta;

Shovel

We have already said that the soil must be fertile - this is exactly what chokeberry loves. Planting (and care) involves feeding with nutritious fertilizers. It should be carried out for the first time in the spring; for this, use humus. Before flowering, water with potassium fertilizers, and in the fall - with phosphate fertilizers. When your rowan tree blooms, it especially needs moisture, so water it more intensively during this period. In general, chokeberry (photo attached) is moisture-loving, so regular watering is needed. When pruning, first remove dry and damaged branches. Trim young growth to prevent the bush from becoming overgrown. If you prune your rowan correctly every year, you can get a rich harvest for 40 years.

Chokeberry loves fertile soil with a weak acid-base environment. High groundwater, dry slopes and depressions are unfavorable for it. It is where the most snow accumulates that chokeberry is most protected. Planting and care should therefore be done in places with plenty of light and moisture.
It’s impossible, the soil must be mulched. Tree trunk circles the first 6-8 years after planting are kept under black fallow. The soil near the bush is loosened to a depth of 10 cm, and on the periphery it is dug up to 12-18 cm.
To do this, dig up the bushes (in the spring before the buds swell or in the fall a month before the onset of frost), cut out all the old branches, leaving young, vigorous ones, shake off the soil from the roots and cut the bush with pruning shears (or an ax) into several parts, depending on the its size. When dividing a bush, you must ensure that each new part of the plant has a well-developed root system and a healthy above-ground part (1-2 shoots). Each part should have good, young, highly developed roots; old rhizomes are removed and the remaining ones are trimmed.
Next autumn, chokeberry bushes are dug up and planted in a permanent place. Bushes suitable for planting must have well-developed roots and strong shoots.
makes it possible to speed up the production of seedlings, since already one-year-old plants have an excellent fibrous root system and a well-branched aerial part. When propagated by green cuttings, the transfer of glass and bud mites to young plantations is excluded.

Seeds are sown evenly in furrows 6-8 cm deep, covered with 0.5 cm of soil and mulched with a layer of sawdust or humus. To obtain good planting material, the seedlings are thinned out for the first time when two true leaves form, leaving a distance of 3 cm between them, the second time - in the phase of four to five leaves at a distance of 6 cm. The last thinning is done in the spring of next year with a distance of 10 cm.

Video about planting and care

Video story about the benefits and proper cultivation

Organic fertilizer

Reproduction

How to plant seedlings?

Chokeberry bushes are decorative from spring until leaf fall, so they are widely

Perennial woody shrub, consisting in an adult state of branches of different ages. In favorable conditions

Reproduction by root suckers, which grow in large numbers around the bush every year, is the main method of propagation of chokeberry.

For cutting cuttings, choose powerful, healthy bushes. From the mother bush, cuttings can be taken 2-3 times over the summer, cutting them from the tops of all branches of the bush. The first time - around the beginning of summer, the second - only after new growth and preferably from the side branches, the third - in early September from all shoots.

Caring for chokeberry includes the need for regular pruning, which is usually done in the fall. But the first strong cutting of up to four healthy buds is carried out during the planting period, which ensures good growth of the fruit-bearing bush.
Chokeberry is a self-pollinating crop, so root shoots are most suitable for propagation. Over the summer, it can grow up to 40 cm in height in the ground, and also develop a good and viable root system. This will allow it to be easily transplanted to any suitable place later.
Karkhumäki and others

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Rowan can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, grafting, or dividing the bush. The easiest way to propagate on your own is the latter method. To do this, divide the old bush, cut it short and replant. Seeds are usually propagated by specialists or experienced gardeners. Cuttings are very common, but this requires a greenhouse with a special spraying installation. Cuttings are harvested in autumn or spring.

Having decided on the location, you can begin the planting itself. It is recommended to plant chokeberry in the fall. To do this, dig a hole up to half a meter in width, length and depth. Mix the soil with humus, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Pour most of this mixture back into the hole. Plant the plant and fill it with the rest of the soil. Water warm water and mulch the ground around the trunk.

used for landscaping.

The bush can have up to 80-90 branches and be up to 3 m high with a crown diameter of 2-2.5 m. The first fruiting occurs in the 2-3rd year. The maximum harvest (up to 8-12 kg of berries per bush) is harvested in the 5-8th year after planting.

The number of root suckers depends on the variety. soil moisture, nutrient content and plant care. By the spring of next year, the shoots reach normal development and have their own root system. They are separated from the mother bush with pruning shears or a shovel and transplanted to a permanent place.

Cold greenhouses for green cuttings are prepared in advance (in June). Coarse, sifted, well-washed sand in a layer of 7-10 cm is poured onto the dug up clean layer of soil in greenhouses before planting the cuttings.

Propagation by woody cuttings

In the second year, pruning is carried out to create skeletal branches in the young plant (their number will be about 11-13). For proper growth, you also need to prune thickening branches annually. You can shorten the shoots after they finish blooming. This will allow you to adjust the shape of the crown.

Reproduction and cultivation of fruit-bearing shrubs can also be done using cuttings, seeds, as well as layering, dividing the bush and grafting. But to ensure good survival, it is important to follow several rules:

There are also numerous varieties that are of mixed origin. These include Erecta, Nero, Rubina, and Black-Eyed. When choosing a specific variety, it is better to choose those that are presented in local nurseries. They are more adapted to the climatic conditions in the existing region, so they will be able to take root well after planting. At the same time, they will need minimal care.

Chopper

Conclusion

How to care?

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Reproduction of chokeberry (chokeberry) |

Propagation of chokeberry by seeds.

Ripe berries appear at the end of August and hang on the branches for a long time. Not collected on time, they become

Chokeberry is demanding of light and moisture. Grows well in drained peat bogs. Relatively easy to tolerate

When digging up root shoots, the shoots are cut off, leaving 2-3 buds on each.

The green stalk is cut 10-15 cm long (depending on growth). After cutting, the cuttings are prepared for planting: they are removed lower leaves, leaving 2-3 top ones, which are also partially shortened. For better and faster rooting, a light longitudinal cut is made above each bud, and 3-4 such cuts are made in the lower part of the cutting. Before planting, for better rooting, the lower ends of the cuttings are immersed in a solution of a rooting agent (growth stimulator) for 6-12 hours. Then the cuttings, washed in clean water, are planted in pre-prepared cold greenhouses.

. Upon reaching 7 years of age, the branches of the fruit-bearing bush are cut out, leaving only strong, strong and young shoots. This is necessary to replace old branches with new ones, which improves the appearance and fruiting of the chokeberry. After the chokeberry reaches 10 years of age, it can be cut back to the ground in order to rejuvenate the bush.

When propagating chokeberry using seeds, they need to be sown in mid-autumn. IN winter time they will undergo a natural process of stratification, which will ensure their high germination rate. Seeds are sown in the ground to a depth of no more than 2 cm. But when planted in early spring, they must undergo a preliminary stratification process at a temperature of more than 5 degrees for 3-4 months;

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Phosphorus fertilizersExpand

And finally, I would like to note that this plant is unpretentious, gets sick much less than other fruits and berries, produces 8-10 kg of berries per season, and, moreover, is an excellent element of landscape design. This is what it is - chokeberry. Planting and caring for it are simple, the flowering is lush, and its fruits are very tasty and healthy.

The chokeberry planting has been completed, now you need to take care of it so that your shrub takes root faster and begins to bear fruit. You need to care for rowan all season, and you need:

the property of blackbirds. The harvest can be stored in a cool, dry room for 1-1.5 months. The berries should be scattered in a thin layer.

acidic soils, very winter-hardy. Due to late flowering, its harvest is guaranteed from spring frosts. She mail is not damaged by pests and diseases. For propagation by horizontal and arcuate layering

Cuttings cut and planted in greenhouses before mid-summer will have a developed root system by the end of summer and can be transplanted to a separate area for growing. Cuttings cut and planted in a greenhouse in the fall are left in the greenhouse until next spring. In the spring they are also transplanted for growing.

For propagation by woody cuttings, take well-ripened annual shoots (from 2-4-year-old branches).

The harvest takes place in summer-autumn period- from August to October, but it is better to do this before the onset of the first frost.

When grafting, an ordinary rowan rootstock is taken (you can also use hawthorn or pear). You can vaccinate behind the bark of a tree or into a split;

Chokeberry is mainly used by country house owners personal plots for forming a hedge around a garden or vegetable garden. It is also suitable for strengthening ravines, decorative single or row planting. Growing this shrub is quite simple, since it is not picky about climate and soil type.

Today, chokeberry is very common in our country, as well as among agronomists near and far abroad, including the USA and Canada. It is a shrub whose height and crown diameter on average reaches about 3 meters. This plant is highly decorative, especially in autumn.

Chokeberry grows in many garden plots. It was first bred through long-term selection by agronomist Michurin. To do this, he used low-decorative chokeberry, which grows mainly in North America along the winding shores of reservoirs, lakes, and rivers.

feed at least three times;

A shrub on a slender vertical trunk is very decorative if chokeberry cuttings are grafted into the trunk

For the medicinal properties of its berries, chokeberry is very popular among the population. In its fruits

It is better to take well-developed one-year shoots and two-year branches with strong growth on young bushes. Layering is best done in early spring, as soon as the soil allows. The soil under the bushes intended for layering must be well dug up and leveled in advance.

Propagation of chokeberry by root suckers.

The cuttings should be planted obliquely, almost close to each other at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. There should be a free space of 15-20 cm high between the greenhouse film and the cuttings. After planting, the cuttings are thoroughly and abundantly watered from a watering can with a very fine strainer. It is very important that the water does not flow in a continuous stream, but splashes. After watering, the greenhouse is covered with film.

It is better to cut shoots for cuttings in the fall in the second half of September; planted at this time, they have time to take root well and overwinter safely.

In order not to damage the plant, the berries need to be cut with scissors, which will increase their shelf life. You can then string it on a wire and place it in a cool, dark place.

Propagation of chokeberry by layering.

When planting, rhizomatous shoots are pruned to 4 buds. Chokeberry will grow well in soil of normal and even high acidity, in dry sandy soil, as well as wet loamy. Growing aronia is as easy as planting a watermelon in your garden. This does not require significant knowledge and skills.

In autumn, its leaves turn yellow, orange and red with purple reflections. During flowering, chokeberry is covered with clusters of inflorescences consisting of more than 20 snow-white flowers. During fruiting, umbrellas form on the bush, which subsequently form large berries rich dark blue hue. It blooms just like the familiar and unknown bird cherry, beneficial features which is known to many.

NEW TOOLS

Water regularly; ordinary rowan at a height of 80-140 cm. For this, use 2-3-year-old rowan seedlings (can be forest). If older plants are taken, then the grafting is done not only into the leader (central) shoot, but also into the main skeletal branches. The vaccination period is the first days of May. L. Devochkina, I. V. Klimovich, V. I. Klimovich, B. A. Popov

Propagation of chokeberry by dividing the bush.

After this, shallow grooves are made in the soil from the base of the bush, into which young shoots are bent and pinned. The tops of the latter are lightly pinched. When 10-12 centimeter young green shoots develop from the buds of the allotted branches, they are sprinkled halfway with moist fertile soil or humus. After 15-20 days, when the shoots grow another 10-15 cm, the powder is repeated.

The main care for cuttings consists of regular watering (at first it is important that the air in the greenhouses is warm and humid) and ventilating the greenhouses when the temperature in them rises above 25°.

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Chokeberry, Chokeberry

On the same day, the shoots are cut into cuttings 15-20 cm long, with 5-6 buds. The uppermost unripe part of the shoot should not be taken for cuttings. The upper cut on the cutting is made oblique, on the bud, the lower one under the bud. Planting is done on the day the cuttings are taken.

Roller landing instructions

After planting and establishment of the shrub, it is important to provide the plant with careful care, which will ensure that it receives good harvest with large, juicy and sweet berries. For example, in the dry summer period, chokeberry needs additional watering during the period of fruit set.

Chokeberry, or chokeberry and its secrets. Chokeberry in a summer cottage

Planting and caring for chokeberry (in brief)

Chokeberry (chokeberry) - description

Planting chokeberry

When to plant chokeberry.

Planting chokeberry in spring.

Planting chokeberry in the fall.

Growing chokeberry

Chokeberry in spring.

Caring for chokeberries in summer.

How to care for chokeberry in the fall.

Processing chokeberry.

Watering chokeberry.

Feeding chokeberry chokeberry.

Pruning chokeberry

When to prune chokeberry.

Pruning chokeberry in spring.

Pruning chokeberry in the fall.

Propagation of chokeberry

How to propagate chokeberry.

Propagation of chokeberry by cuttings.

Seed propagation of chokeberry.

Propagation of chokeberry by root suckers.

Propagation of chokeberry by layering.

Propagation of chokeberry by dividing the bush.

Propagation of chokeberry by grafting.

Chokeberry diseases

Pests of chokeberry

Types and varieties of chokeberry

Properties of chokeberry - harm and benefit

Medicinal properties of chokeberry.

Chokeberry - contraindications.

Propagation of chokeberry by cuttings

Lignified cuttings

Green cuttings

Seed propagation of chokeberry

Chokeberry grafting

Propagation of chokeberry by layering

Propagation by seeds

Reproduction by horizontal layering and hilling of the bush

Propagation by green cuttings

Selection of seedlings and varieties of chokeberry

When to plant: autumn or spring?

How to plant: stages of work

Care after landing

Shelter for the winter

Do shoots need to be trimmed?

Top dressing

Watering and loosening the soil

Prevention of diseases and pests

Chokeberry - cultivation and care

Reproduction of chokeberry (chokeberry) |

Propagation of chokeberry by seeds.

Propagation of chokeberry by root suckers.

Propagation of chokeberry by layering.

Propagation of chokeberry by dividing the bush.

Chokeberry, Chokeberry

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