EntranceEnergy efficient stone house in the Moscow region. Selecting a wall design
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Before you start laying, you need to understand what kind of material it is - cellular concrete, and understand its properties, strengths and weaknesses. This approach will help you use it most effectively.
Insufficient insulation and formation of cold bridges
Lack of attention to cold bridges - distinguishing feature crews working the old fashioned way. The need to insulate some areas seems unnecessary to the craftsmen. It is in relation to issues of insulation that professionals can be distinguished from low-level specialists.
Bridges of cold - these are areas that have much lower heat transfer resistance than the rest of the structure. It is through them that significant heat loss occurs at home. Identify areas that require additional measures on thermal insulation.
Seams. If the rules for laying cellular concrete are not followed, they can become significant cold bridges. Thickness of joints in walls laid using adhesive solutions, should not exceed 2-3 mm.
Armobelt. This is a reinforced concrete belt at the floor level, connecting the walls and giving the fastening additional rigidity. Reinforced concrete is much denser than cellular concrete and has higher thermal conductivity.
Therefore, in the project, the thickness of the armored belt and insulation must be calculated in such a way that it is possible to lay polystyrene foam or mineral wool on the armored belt and close it from the outside.
Jumpers. They perform the same role as the armored belt and can be installed above window and door openings. They are produced in the form of U-shaped blocks, which are connected along the length, supported from below, and placed inside reinforcement cage and filled with concrete. To insulate the lintel inside it at the outer wall, before pouring the concrete, you need to put insulation. If this element is mounted from ordinary rectangular blocks, then it is insulated in the same way as armored belts.
Recesses. When using concrete elements with grips, the latter will be visible in the corners of the walls. They (as well as chips in the blocks) must be repaired with glue, not regular glue. cement mortar, since in such a case the “patches” will have high thermal conductivity.
All these insulation measures are relevant when constructing single-layer walls; in two- and three-layer structures, the likelihood of cold bridges appearing is much lower.
Savings on anchoring the interface between external and interior walls
Sometimes contractors are not very responsible about the need to lay anchors when connecting external walls and internal partitions. At the same time, the correct pairing of structures is important not only in matters of stability, but also from the point of view of the formation of cold bridges.
Load-bearing walls of the same level must be made of blocks of the same type, laid on the same mortar. Internal load-bearing partitions are often erected from products 10-15 cm thick simultaneously with external walls and pair them during the construction process.
But it happens that the partitions are laid out after the box at home is ready. This allows them to be built not only from cellular concrete, but also from other masonry materials. In every second or third horizontal seam of the walls that are erected first, install fasteners where the partitions will be located according to the project.
A less reliable, but also acceptable option is screwing the fastening elements to the blocks. At the same time, a rigid connection between the partitions and the ceiling should not be allowed. To do this on the last row Between the masonry and the ceiling, an elastic seal 1-2 cm thick is placed.
It is noteworthy that, in principle, the site was not damaged, namely its functionality. Judge for yourself: total area The territory is only 6 acres, and practically in its center there is a two-story house with an attic (total area is about 250 m²). At the same time, parking for several cars was placed on the plot; large covered terrace; utility storage room; children's playground; alpine hill, flower beds, beds; spacious woodshed; dog house.
Of course, some people like more space around the house, but this raises the question of the feasibility of the initial investment, since, we repeat, this object is located in Kyiv (Berkovtsy district).
However, we won’t spend much time on the garden area and will begin to get to know the house.
Initial data
The project was independently developed for ourselves in order to take into account all wishes as much as possible. The site already had a foundation, so it was used as the basis for a future house. The site is flat and windless. Of the negative features - high level groundwater. The positive side is all the delights of life in a garden cooperative within the capital.
The entire cycle of construction work from start to finish took almost 5 years, from 2011 to 2016. Such a long process allowed us to devote more time to theoretical preparation and planning of all actions and decisions. In addition, it was relatively simpler in material terms, since one-time large investments were not required.
Building
Foundation- strip-column with a monolithic slab. The latter was chosen as the basis for the subsequent creation of a “warm floor” system. Carrier base of wall structure made of aerated concrete "StoneLight" D400 with a thickness of 360 mm. And if such walls would have been quite suitable for the old standards, then taking into account the current requirements and the cost of energy resources, they insulated A 10-centimeter layer of PBS-25 foam.
This decision was quite conscious. Yes, on the Internet there are a lot of arguments in favor of insulating with wool, since it is vapor permeable, like aerated concrete. They write that polystyrene foam creates a “plug” and cannot be used with cellular concrete. However, there are a number of quite reasonable arguments on the other side, convincing that when the right approach aerated concrete can be insulated with foam plastic. The owner of this cottage chose the latter position and does not regret it, having verified in practice that this option is quite applicable.
To protect the facade from precipitation and to give it a decorative component, we chose “lamb” plaster from Anserglob. Finishing layer- paint from Tikkurila. By the way, it is worth noting that the color of the facade contributes to the topic of energy efficiency of enclosing structures. Everyone knows that black objects heat up faster and more strongly in the sun, while white objects, on the contrary, reflect the rays. And this is true for all designs. Therefore, dark façade walls will be warmer in winter. But is solar energy needed in the hot summer?
On the inside the premises are used a variety of coatings - paint, wallpaper, acrylic plaster, tiles.
Windows and transparent doors are made of the same type and represent a 5-chamber profile system (frame) with a two-chamber double-glazed window. To save on heating costs and create more comfortable conditions, modern energy-saving designs with special i-glasses and inert gas were chosen.
Floors under the second floor and under the attic - wooden, insulated mineral wool 10 cm thick. Thanks lightweight designs And wooden floor, the connection in the house is good, Wi-Fi is available everywhere. The roof insulation was made from mineral wool high density, but already 25 cm thick. Additionally, a foil barrier was used.
Engineering "stuffing"
Modernization of the internal network of the garden cooperative made it possible to connect the house to a three-phase electricity supply(16 A on automatic). Thanks to this, there is more than enough power for everything household needs and a sauna. In addition, after long and problematic development and approval of a number of project documentation the house was gasified. However, I would like to note that these problems are not targeted and do not relate to specific officials or employees. In almost any region of the country, homeowners will say that if the torment (and they are obligatory) with the gascantor lasts only six months, then it’s lucky.
For water supply it uses its own well. In addition, process water was supplied from centralized networks. Sewage disposal is carried out in septic tank. Vodograi bacteria are used to clean wastewater; sludge is pumped out only in the cold season.
Air exchange in the house is natural(inflow - through windows and doors, exhaust - through the central ventilation duct).
The heating issue was resolved comprehensively, using almost all possible options. There is an affordable (130 USD) Vinnitsa electric boiler Aston 6 kW. It was used literally a couple of times before starting up the wood-burning boiler. That was enough this offseason.
In addition, installed a gas boiler Ariston Clas Evo, which is mainly used only for morning heating (we can say that this is one half heating system). Other - solid fuel boiler Viadrus, which is heated almost every evening. To do this, use 2-3 stacks of firewood (about 60 kg). The heated water is distributed over heating radiators installed in the rooms, but the main purpose of the coolant is to warm up the heated floor, screeded almost throughout the entire first floor. 6 m³ of screed plays the role of a heat accumulator - the heat reserves are enough for the whole night. In the morning, active gas heating is performed. Then the boiler turns off, and there is enough heat for the whole day until the evening use of solid fuel. To provide hot water supply a gas boiler is used, which heats the water and supplies it to the Drazice thermal tank (200 l). This option much more convenient than dual-circuit gas boiler, since there is no delay in supply and it is easier to regulate the temperature of the water for showering.
Material aspect
Approximate energy consumption for life support and creating comfortable conditions:
- heating. The house is quite warm: the children run around almost naked, the heated floor is always warm. By flow rate with alternating gas heating and solid fuel in neutral months (0 °C) up to 200 m³ of gas and about 2 m³ of firewood are consumed. In cold months (-10 - -15 °C) consumption increases to 600 m³ of gas and 4-5 m³ of firewood;
- electricity consumption. Electricity is not used for heating, but due to the large number of family members, refrigerators, washing machines, dishwashers, lighting and appliances are constantly running. As a result, the figure is always stable - about 1000 kW per month at a single tariff of 1.15 UAH/kW (at the moment).
Don't be afraid to build
- Energy saving windows. I don’t regret that we weren’t afraid to install huge panoramic windows in the northern part of the house. Thanks to modern profiles and double-glazed windows, the house is warm, light and spacious.
- Insulation of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam. The result was a lightweight, breathable structure, after installation of which the house became significantly warmer (almost 2 times).
- Super insulated roof. 25 cm of high-density mineral wool instantly made the house 30% warmer. And now even in the attic (without separate heating!) in winter the temperature does not drop below 15 °C.
As for the mistakes - if I were building it again, I would put more insulation under the warm floor. Now there is 5 cm of PSB-25 foam, and I would use 5 cm of extruded polystyrene foam.
I would like to advise beginning developers not to be afraid to make a choice between a house and an apartment. Operating costs are comparable, capital costs are slightly higher. But subject to independent work (there are a lot of simple options for producing a number of construction and finishing works) price for small house(120 m² with attic) will not be much higher than the cost of an apartment of similar size. But behind the doors of the house, instead of a landing, there will be another area, greenery, Fresh air and your own land.
Thickness of walls made of aerated concrete, gas silicate blocks
Thickness of single-layer walls of a private house should be appointed based on the need to ensure:
- Mechanical strength, load-bearing capacity of walls.
- Thermal protection of premises.
- Energy saving in the house.
In low-rise construction, for walls made of aerated concrete and gas silicate, as a rule, The last indicator is decisive.
To provide mechanical strength walls of a private house in most cases just choose the thickness of the walls made of aerated concrete, gas silicate 200-250 mm.
In order to protect the house from cold in winter and provide thermal comfort in the rooms, surface temperature difference outer wall in the house and indoor air should be no more than 4 o C(the temperature of the wall is always lower than the air).
For thermal protection of the home, the outer wall must have a certain amount of heat transfer resistance. For example, for climatic conditions district of Barnaul resistance to heat transfer thermal comfort R reg.comf =1,7 m 2 * o C/W. With such resistance to heat transfer, the walls will provide thermal comfort in the house. That is, the surface temperature of the outer wall will be lower than the air temperature in the room by no more than 4 o C. Such a wall will not “breathe cold” and condensation will not appear on the wall. Thermal comfort in the house will be ensured by a wall made of aerated concrete blocks with a thickness of 230 mm.(D500 brand blocks with glued masonry). However, heat loss through walls and thermal energy consumption for heating will significantly exceed established standards.
For energy saving purposes The heat transfer resistance of the walls should be many times greater. SNiP propose to ensure the heat transfer resistance of the wall within the normalized range, from Rmin before Rmax, provided that and for heating the house will not exceed established standards.
You can read more about the standards for thermal protection of house walls in the article .
The following indicators are calculated for each region in the table: Fig.1.:
- Degree days of the heating period, GSOP - D d.
- Heat transfer resistance of the wall in accordance with the requirements of building regulations. The maximum indicated ( Rreg.max) and minimum ( Rreg.min) regional values.
- Wall heat transfer resistance ( Rreg.comf), which will ensure comfortable sanitary and hygienic conditions in the living quarters of the house, when the difference in air temperature between the room and the wall is no more than 4 o C.
- The thickness of the walls is made of aerated concrete blocks, which provide regional resistance to heat transfer. The thickness is calculated for walls made of blocks of different densities, with masonry using glue and cement-sand mortar.
In the same table on another sheet are given SNiP standards for specific energy consumption for heating single-apartment detached residential buildings.
Maximum ( Rreg.max) heat transfer resistance meets the requirements building codes on energy saving.
Minimum ( Rreg.min) — minimum permissible heat transfer resistance under energy saving conditions: Rreg.min = 0,63 * Rreg.max.
Building regulations allow for a reduction in the heat transfer resistance of walls to the value Rreg.min provided that energy consumption for heating meets the standards due to excess insulation other enclosing structures: ceilings, windows, doors, as well as as a result of reducing heat loss through ventilation.
Wall heat transfer resistance Rreg.comf — meets only the requirements of sanitary and hygienic rules. The inner surface of an outer wall, with a heat transfer resistance equal to or greater than Rreg.comf, will have a temperature that is comfortable for humans. There will be no condensation or frost on the wall surface. Energy consumption for heating in a house with such walls is not standardized and will significantly exceed current standards.
The problem of choosing wall thickness from aerated concrete blocks comes down to the following algorithm:
- Choose a wall thickness in the range of sizes between Emin And Emax based on constructive considerations — standard size blocks and methods of laying them in the wall.
- Achieve specific energy consumption for heating, meeting the requirements of SNiP. Methods of influencing specific energy consumption are described in the above article.
For example, in the table for a wall with glued blocks with a density of D=500 in Barnaul we find E max =0.51 m. and E min =0.31 m. For structural reasons, we select an aerated concrete block from one of the manufacturers for the wall of the house standard width 375 mm. We provide masonry from blocks with a thickness of 375 mm. in one layer of the house wall without additional insulation.
The wall thickness chosen in the example will not provide the heat transfer resistance required by the standards. Heat loss through the walls of the house will be higher than standard. But wall insulation is not cheap. Cheaper, for example, is the price of floor insulation work.
In order to total heat loss the houses remained within the requirements of building codes, and the cost of building a house has decreased, it is profitable not to insulate the wall, and increase the heat transfer resistance of other building structures.
Determine what is more profitable for example, increase the thickness of the wall by laying blocks in two layers, or attach a second layer of insulation to a single-layer wall, or increase the thickness of the insulation of the attic and basement floors, or reduce the glazing area and install multi-chamber energy-saving double-glazed windows?
Or maybe we should agree with the increased specific consumption energy for heating if fuel is cheap? Compliance with energy consumption standards is not mandatory for a private developer.
Thickness of aerated concrete walls of a country house
If the task of energy saving is not worth it, For example, country house for seasonal living from spring to autumn and for rare weekend visits in winter, you should choose a wall thickness that provides only comfortable sanitary and hygienic conditions — E comf.
For example, according to the table in Barnaul, the same wall, with glued aerated concrete - gas silicate blocks with a density of D = 500, must have a thickness of at least E comf = 0,23 m.
Is it necessary to insulate aerated concrete walls?
In the last decade, it has become widespread the idea that the walls of any house should be “insulated”. That is, first build the walls, and then, additionally, supplement them with something else for “thermal insulation.”
The idea of the need for maximum “additional insulation” of walls is wrong. In order to save energy, it is often easier and cheaper to insulate other structures “to the maximum” - insulating walls is a very expensive idea. In addition, only 20-30% of the heat in the house is lost through the walls.
The successful combination of properties of aerated concrete - sufficient strength and low thermal conductivity, as well as reasonable cost, make it the best material for constructing a single-layer, uniform in thickness, durable and environmentally friendly stone wall.
Use aerated concrete as a structural material In two-layer walls with insulation, as a rule, it is not profitable.
For double-layer walls with insulation, you can select construction materials and insulation materials with better technical and economic indicators than aerated concrete.
Advantages of single-layer external walls
Especially in areas with mild winters cheaper and easier to build a private house with single-layer external walls made of aerated concrete - gas silicate without additional insulation. These modern Construction Materials allow you to build a fairly heat-saving single-layer wall of reasonable thickness and required strength.
Compared to two- or three-layer walls, Single-layer exterior wall construction has the following advantages:
- The total cost of building a house with single-layer external aerated concrete is - gas silicate walls masonry thickness up to 40 cm, at least does not exceed the cost of building two-layer, and less than three-layer walls. Such walls make it possible to provide high consumer properties of housing, and at the same time reduce the cost of construction in areas with less severe winters.
- The homogeneous design of a single-layer stone wall provides greater durability, environmental friendliness, and better resistance to mechanical, fire and climatic influences.
- In the thickness of a single-layer wall there are no less durable and non-impact-resistant insulation and polymer films, there are no ventilated gaps, there is no risk of moisture accumulation at the boundary of the layers, and protection from rodents is not required. According to STO 00044807-001-06, buildings up to 5 floors with external walls made of autoclaved aerated concrete blocks predicted durability 100 years, duration of operation until the first overhaul - 55 years. For comparison, the duration of effective operation of buildings insulated with mineral wool or polystyrene boards before the first major repair is 25-35 years. During this period it is required complete replacement
- insulation. Single layer wall
- insulation. least susceptible to accidental or deliberate damage. is the key to the absence of hidden defects:
- it is impossible to place insulation poorly in it, since the insulation is the masonry material itself; it is impossible to perform a bad vapor barrier in it, since it does not need a vapor barrier; the entire wall is in front of your eyes and you don’t have to worry about the state of the foam or mineral wool hidden in its depths - nothing is hidden in the wall. Finishing the facade of a single-layer wall is cheaper and more durable
- than finishing walls with insulation. Laying a single-layer wall is faster
- , since it is made from large-format blocks and does not require additional work on wall insulation. For laying single-layer walls, as a rule, blocks with a tongue-and-groove side surface are used, which makes it possible not to fill the vertical joints of the masonry with mortar. As a result consumption masonry mortar.
This does not mean that you have to freeze and deny yourself the essentials. However, even when building a cottage, you can take this issue into account and provide an economical heating system, as well as eliminate the main cold bridges and prevent global heat loss. A lot of energy is lost through windows, ventilation and walls, so the main task of builders is to deal with these problem areas.
Why aerated concrete?
Aerated concrete is an autoclaved cellular material. The porous structure retains heat perfectly, while aerated concrete blocks are not covered with condensation and are cheaper than bricks, because the ingredients required for their production are cheaper, and the production itself is faster and simpler.
A masonry of only 10-15 cm thick is enough to prevent the wall from freezing even in severe frosts. A good sign of quality is the following fact: even without additional insulation, the temperature of the inside of the wall is only 4 degrees lower than the temperature in the room. The material itself retains heat and prevents freezing. If you take care of good thermal insulation, theoretically you can do without heating at all, especially if the house is used only occasionally.
Of course, such amazing results are achieved only if people are involved in construction good specialists with solid experience. The quality of the material itself is also important. We recommend using dry autoclaved aerated concrete grade D 400 or D 500.
With the right approach, it is possible to create structures in which even windows will not be a source of constant heat loss - by the way, roller shutters or high-quality blinds also contribute to this.
Aerated concrete is also good because it can be used to build anything: a hangar, a residential estate, a garage with a chicken coop. There is no need to heavily reinforce the masonry: it is a durable and reliable material, the floors can also be made of aerated concrete, and this will significantly reduce costs.
Let us remind you that traditionally the strongest and most solid foundation is laid for the project - just in case, suddenly a citadel made of solid hewn stone will be built on it. However, lightweight concrete has a much lower specific gravity than brick or their heavy counterparts, so the foundation can also be lightened, reducing construction time and the budget of the entire event. Of course, this decision must be made taking into account the type of soil, but by default we believe that geodetic research is a mandatory part of your construction program.
When working with aerated concrete, you can create a completely closed warm contour cottage, and experts believe that this is what any prudent homeowner should do: firstly, a penny saves the ruble, and secondly, it’s time to start thinking about our planet.
July 16, 2015A project for an energy-saving house was implemented in Chekhov, Moscow Region.
The house is for sale. Priceenergy saving house is 7,500,000 rubles. The house is located within the city of Chekhov, a 20-minute walk from the center, 15 minutes from the forest, 250 meters from Pyaterochka and public transport stops. Nearby there are schools, kindergartens, a sports complex, a plot of 5 acres, in the house:
4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen-living room with bay window area, second living room with bay window area on the second floor, storage room under the stairs, autonomous sewerage"Topol" connected to the drainage system for drainage of technical water, a water well, a septic tank where all the equipment is installed, electricity connected underground to the house, a water outlet for summer use, a water outlet for the bathhouse.
The house has a toilet, a sink, and the sewage system is already working. There is a place for a bathhouse, 2 parking spaces, paths, fir trees, pine trees, fruit trees, finished landscape works, summer veranda, place for a fireplace, insulated 5-chamber double-glazed windows, 3-chamber double-glazed windows. The inside of the house is plastered to look like a lighthouse, 3 layers of putty are applied, roof insulation is 20 cm (Knauf polystyrene foam), floor insulation is 10 cm (Knauf polystyrene foam for floors).
Detailed description of an energy-saving house:
The house is made of cellular concrete (aerated concrete), blocks 375 mm wide with a density of D 500, this is one of the best materials for the construction of energy-saving houses. The topic of energy-saving technologies is very broad, so we will dwell a little on the main points and directly talk about our home.
IN Lately, construction of energy-saving houses is gaining great popularity in Russia. This is understandable; the times of useless waste of energy, resources and time are passing. Buy an energy-efficient house today it is quite simple, as more and more relevant objects have begun to enter the market. At construction of energy-saving houses , the main emphasis is on good insulation home and reducing heat losses to a minimum, as well as accumulating energy in the house from external energy sources.
Average statistical indicators of energy consumption in everyday life:
Lighting 2-3%
Cooking 4-6%
Other household appliances (Refrigerator, washing machine, etc.) 6%
Water heating 12%
Heating 73-76%
Of course, these indicators are average and different for everyone, but you can’t argue with the fact that heating takes up the bulk of energy consumed in everyday life.
There is an opinion that houses built using energy-saving technologies are limited in design solutions. This opinion is very dubious and in reality has practically no effect on the exterior of the house, since there are no special restrictions on structural forms, the main condition is high-quality insulation of the house in all possible structural elements (walls, roof, floors, windows, doors, ventilation, cold bridges, etc.).
In addition to heat conservation, energy-saving houses pay attention to the accumulation and use of solar energy, wind and other possible options.
We tried to implement the project in a modern classic style with elements of Provence.
The main goal in building an energy-saving house was:
1) Construction of a house with high energy-saving indicators using modern, environmentally friendly materials of high quality.
2) Compliance with all necessary standards, deadlines and requirements for the construction of these structures.
3) The use of materials in the construction of a house that allow the house to “breathe” and maintain the correct microclimate.
4) Convenient zoning and space planning while maintaining the functionality of the entire space. There are no non-functional areas in the house.
5) The area of the house was calculated for the comfortable living of a family from 2-3 (with perspective) to 5-6 people, without the construction of “empty” areas, which in reality are practically not used and are a lifelong liability for which you have to pay for your whole life, just like that.
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6) Selecting a site within the city, with a convenient location, developed infrastructure, transport accessibility (but not closer than 200 meters to the road).
7) Selection of a site with the possibility of carrying out all necessary communications.
8) Possibility of registration in the future.
9) A plot that allows you to allocate space for parking two cars.
10) Use of modern heating technologies (economically profitable and easy to use).
The house was built according to the project. Most of the work was completed with a quality margin above the norm.
Stages of building an energy-saving house:
1 . Foundation in an energy-efficient house.
When buying an energy-efficient home, this is the first thing you should pay attention to. Special attention so that in the future we will not be surprised by surprises in the form of cracks, etc.
The foundation is the foundation of the house, and we approached it thoroughly. When choosing a foundation, preference was given to a strip-pile foundation. This is due to the reliability of the design and durability. The price of the foundation is significant, but it is worth it.
The strip-pile foundation consists of metal piles with a diameter of 108 mm, with blades of 350 mm, twisted to a depth of 2 meters (below the freezing depth in the Moscow Region 1.7 m).
The choice of the company that sells and installs piles was thorough (since the piles must be made of very high quality, for a long service life, have good processing and all the necessary protective layers. The seams must be factory-made and without damage). From above, the piles are cut to level and the cavity is necessarily filled with high-quality concrete.
Next, the foundation for the strip foundation is prepared (soil removal and installation sand cushion). All piles are covered with a reinforcement frame of 16 pieces of reinforcement according to the design (tying the structure together to create a strong, solid foundation for the house).
When the concrete set and dried, high-quality waterproofing was installed on top. She lay down carefully, since the surface strip foundation was aligned with the lighthouse. Before pouring the foundation, all necessary communications were brought into the house to the necessary places.
2. Installation of slabs on the 1st floor in an energy-saving house.
Next, we installed slabs (PNO - lightweight). They can withstand the same load as slabs with a thickness of 22 cm - 800 kg.m.sq. The choice of PNO slabs is determined so as not to place unnecessary load on the foundation. The slabs were secured to the foundation and the installation of cellular concrete began.
3. Installation of load-bearing walls of the first floor in an energy-saving house.
As mentioned above, for an energy-saving house, load-bearing wall blocks were chosen with a width of 375 mm and grade D 500. There are many reasons for choosing cellular concrete as the main material for building a house:
1. It's modern and quality material having all the necessary environmental standards.
2. Excellent energy-saving properties, thanks to the huge number of small pores in the material filled with air. And as we know, air is the best insulating material. The thermal insulation and isotropic properties of cellular concrete are the same in both vertical and horizontal directions. In the cold season, the house keeps warm, and in summer cool.
3. The material has excellent geometry, is very convenient to use, can be easily processed, cut, etc. (usually major manufacturer producing high-quality products, real differences in geometry up to 2 mm). Due to the possibility of easy processing of the material, it can be given any interesting design shapes.
4. Cellular concrete “breathes”, which is very important for creating correct microclimate in the house. This is highly valued in Europe and other developed countries.
In practice, the house was tested: 2 people spent the night in a small room on the 1st floor, the window and door did not open during the night, in the morning there was no shortage of air due to slow air exchange and removal carbon dioxide. Lack of air is felt in houses with highly airtight walls. Such houses should usually have good ventilation.
5. The material is durable, does not require any maintenance over time, does not lose its properties, does not age, does not rot, does not burn.
6. Has virtually no shrinkage.
7. Very convenient for laying communications, electrical, etc.
8. The material is non-flammable and has high fire resistance even with small wall thicknesses.
9. High strength with low weight.
10. Good sound insulation performance.
11. Thanks to the precise geometry, the masonry joint is actually 1-2 mm, which eliminates heat loss through the joints and reduces the consumption of masonry mortar. The blocks are laid using an adhesive composition.
If you make a seam from 5 to 10 mm or more in a brick wall or a wall made of 15-20 mm blocks, then the total area of masonry joints can be from 15 to 30% of the wall surface. And the masonry mixture does not have high energy saving rates, so such structures must be additionally insulated.
12. Using this material, you can avoid cold bridges throughout the entire house if you follow the construction technology correctly. (This will make it possible to avoid condensation on the internal surfaces of the house during the cold season).
13. Thanks to proven construction technology and the availability the necessary tool, the speed of construction of structures is very high.
14. Convenient for fastening on all wall surfaces.
15. There is no need for additional wall insulation. (And this is very significant).
Construction of the walls of the first floor in an energy-saving house:
When erecting walls, window openings must be strengthened. To do this, in the places of window openings in front of the last row of blocks, reinforcement is installed in 2 rows, so that it extends beyond the edge of the window opening by at least 500 mm in both directions. This prevents cracks from forming under window openings.
4. The first armored belt in an energy-saving house.
Having completed the installation of the last row of blocks on the first floor, we assembled the formwork for the reinforced aerated concrete belt. An armored belt is required in houses made of aerated concrete, and it must be continuous around the entire perimeter of the house. This design will protect the house from pushing forces.
Many people underestimate its necessity, making independent decisions about its feasibility. Such a decision can only be made by an experienced architect who knows the specifics of working with aerated concrete.
The filling of the armored belt, the concrete structure, will be separated from external temperatures by a 10 cm cellular concrete partition, and this is not enough for us, so we installed extruded polystyrene foam between the armored belt and the external aerated concrete to insulate the structure.
5. Installation of floor slabs on the second floor in an energy-saving house.
Anchors made of 16-diameter reinforcement were secured in the reinforced belt for attaching floor slabs to them. All floor slabs were installed according to the design. The slabs were secured through the reinforcement located in the slabs with a 10 cm welding seam, with 16 reinforcement coming out of the reinforcement belt.
6. Construction of the walls of the second floor in an energy-saving house.
Next we started building the walls of the second floor. The peculiarity of the second floor in our house is that it is full and at the lowest junction of the walls and the roof the distance from the floor to the roof is 2.25 meters.
As a rule, the majority attic floors have 50-90% of full height, where you can move comfortably.
7. Second armored belt in an energy-saving house.
Having completed the last row of the second floor, formwork is prepared from aerated concrete and insulation is installed on the inside of the outer partition made of extruded polystyrene foam to insulate the reinforced belt. Additionally, studs are installed to secure the Mauerlat. According to the project, the studs were calculated to be 12 mm and the fixation should be in an armored belt.
This work was carried out with a margin above the norm: the studs were set to 18 in diameter, the fixation is in the reinforced belt and an additional 500 mm down two rows into the aerated concrete. All pins are about 1 meter long. The work was carried out for large stock stability under strong wind loads.
The armored belt is poured from concrete grade M 300.
Both armored belts pass over the window openings and are made in such a way that all concrete structures are hidden in aerated concrete, both on the front side and on the inside and are insulated with polystyrene foam. This is done in order to avoid cold bridges and condensation.
8. Installation of a Mauerlat in an Energy Saving House.
After the reinforced belt concrete had dried and gained its strength, we moved on to installing the Mauerlat. All the boards used to build the house were carefully treated in 2 layers with neomid and dried for about 2 months. Before installing the Mauerlat, high-quality waterproofing was installed on the armored belt.
For the Mauerlat we used 150 x 150 mm timber. Holes were drilled for the studs, then the power plate was installed and the nuts and washers were tightened. All fasteners used for the roof must be galvanized, which is rust-resistant.
9. Construction of gables in an energy-saving house.
While the armored belt dries out and gains strength, pediments are erected on both sides. Needed here accurate calculations, for the correct and symmetrical construction of gables. The entire geometry of the roof depends on this.
The construction of the gables was carried out using precisely set templates. This work requires special effort, since almost all blocks must be trimmed, the angle and the required slope must be maintained. On each pediment it is done vent, for air circulation in the attic 300 X 300 mm.
10. Installation of a roof frame in an energy-efficient house.
Once the gables were completed, we moved on to installing the roof truss system. A board 200 X 50 X 6000 mm was used as a rafter. We deliberately used a board height of 200 mm to provide the high-quality insulation we needed.
The rafter system is the basis of the roof; its entire basis will depend on the accuracy of this work. It is necessary to accurately make all calculations and check all diagonals. First, the rafters are installed on two different sides of the gables, then the entire roof frame is assembled along the cords.
Fastening to the Mauerlat is made using a special cutout in the rafters and two galvanized corners. The corners according to the project are 60 X 60 X 2 mm. We used a margin of 100 X 100 X 3 mm. For fixation, yellow self-tapping screws and 12 mm studs with washers and nuts were used. The rafters were positioned relative to each other in 60 cm increments to strengthen the roof structure.
At the same time, the roof ridge was being installed. For the ridge, a beam of 100 X 200 X 6000 mm was used.
11. Installation of waterproofing, counter-lattice and sheathing in an energy-efficient house.
To install the correct “pie” of our roof, you need to do everything necessary work. To begin with, we choose high-quality waterproofing that meets all the necessary requirements. We chose the Corotop Classic membrane. She's different excellent characteristics and is capable of protecting the house from precipitation for up to six months, if metal tiles have not yet been installed. Tested in practice: several times passed heavy rains, the result is not a single drop passed inside.
It does not let moisture in (condensation from metal tiles, humid air, etc.), but is able to remove excess moisture out, this is similar to the structure of the skin. The membrane is installed with an overlap; for this purpose, the membrane has the necessary drawings. Overlapping areas are additionally taped with special roofing double-sided tape.
Next, we install a counter-lattice for the required ventilation gap, a board 50 X 50 mm. After this, we proceed to install the sheathing. For the lathing, a board 25 X 100 X 6000 mm was used. Here, too, accurate calculations are required, checking diagonals, calculating the pitch for metal tiles, etc. The counter-lattice and sheathing are fastened with galvanized 100 mm rough nails.
12. Installation of metal tiles, snow guards, ventilation outlets and drainage system in an energy-saving house.
The choice of metal tiles was approached just as thoroughly. We chose it in a large specialized store "Unikma". There is no place for savings and experiments here :). The choice fell on the Finnish concern Ruukki, color PURAL MATT. The service life of this metal tile is 50 years. The sheets were made to order, in one piece.
At the same time, in necessary places, we cut in two Vilpe ventilation outlets of 125 mm each and one sewer outlet of 110 mm. We fixed the metal tiles according to the fastening diagram, for reliable fixation and protection from gusts of wind.
We chose a metal gutter system because it is of higher quality, does not fade in the sun, and is stronger. Installation of snow guards is a necessary safety measure. Moreover, it is very important to install a high-quality one, secure it well.
Snow loads can be very significant, and in addition to the huge amount of snow and ice falling from the roof, snow retainers can be added to them.
13. Installation of windows, window sills and front door in an energy-efficient house.
If we building an energy-saving house , which means the windows must be appropriate. If you decide buy an energy-efficient house , pay special attention to window structures.
The window profile chosen is very warm, 5-chamber and three-chamber double-glazed windows. We also chose energy-saving glass. For effective insulation double-glazed windows, on the façade side, and insulated the window openings using aerated concrete.
On both sides, the windows have decorative lamination that matches the style of the house. Window sills have the same lamination.
The entrance door was ordered insulated with polystyrene foam.
14. Facade plaster and putty in an energy-saving house.
For quality protection facade of the house, it is necessary to carry out a series of sequential works. It is important, for external work, to use materials intended specifically for the facade. First, the surface is cleaned and primed. Next, we fill all the small chips with facade plaster. After this, apply with a spatula a thin layer of 2 - 3 mm facade plaster in 2 layers.
We do without standard plaster due to the fact that the walls were built level and have a very flat surface. Next, we prime again and apply façade putty in 2 layers. The work was carried out before the first frost with the addition of anti-frost additives. With the onset of the first negative temperatures, work was postponed until spring.
15. Construction of partitions in an energy-saving house.
During the winter, work began inside the house. For the partitions, cellular concrete 150 mm thick, grade D600, was used. We lay waterproofing under the base of the wall and lay the first row level on the mortar. Next, installation proceeds to the adhesive mixture.
Partitions must be connected to load-bearing walls with special connections. In the upper part of the junction of the partitions with the ceiling, it is necessary to leave an expansion joint of up to 2 cm, it must be foamed.
Naturally, the partitions must be built with high quality, so that later you do not have to spend a lot on plaster mixture and additional work. We got an average thickness of internal plaster of 6 - 10 mm. The floors, after installing the partitions, were filled with self-leveling flooring (preparing the surface for laying polystyrene foam).
16. Installing insulation in an energy-efficient house.
The correct choice of insulation and quality installation, one the most important stages in the construction of an energy-saving house. Before buy an energy-efficient house , this factor is worth paying attention to the most. The choice of polystyrene foam was not accidental.
Firstly, expanded polystyrene retains heat better than other insulation based on glass wool, etc.
Secondly, there is no dangerous dust that causes allergies (used in fiberglass-based insulation, etc.). People often disassemble such roof insulation because over time they absorb moisture and lose their efficiency and volume. They have the advantage of not being flammable.
For insulation, we chose KNAUF polystyrene foam, which does not burn, but only melts. This has been tested experimentally. And since we are talking about the resistance of materials to fire, we can assume that if a fire occurs in the house and the surfaces of the walls, furniture, coatings catch fire, wooden structures roof, then no insulation will save you, whether it is susceptible to burning or not.
To do this, it is better to provide the necessary security measures. Of course, we do not consider cheap polystyrene foam options, the composition of which may be unsuitable for use in the home. Only high-quality material, with the necessary certificates and proven over the years.
Yes, polystyrene foam is more labor-intensive to install, but the result is worth it. The thickness of the insulation on the roof is 20 cm wide everywhere. The installation was carried out in 4 layers, 5 cm each.
After installing each layer, all the cracks were thoroughly foamed and so on for all 4 layers. Thanks to this, very high-quality insulation was obtained.
From below, the insulation is insulated with a vapor barrier membrane. We have a Corotop Classic water vapor barrier membrane, and that’s what we use. From above, in attic, above the insulation, moisture-resistant OSB boards are installed to allow movement along the surface and protect the polystyrene foam.
Gaps after installation OSB boards, also foam. Ventilation communications are laid, which are also well insulated.
To insulate the Mauerlat area, it is necessary to make inserts from extruded polystyrene foam on the front side and properly foam all the cracks. On the inside there is a partition made of cellular concrete.
On the floor of the first floor, Knauf polystyrene foam for flooring is laid.
It is more dense and you can easily move on it without damaging it. Layer thickness 10 cm.
Thus, we insulated the entire house. The largest layer of insulation is concentrated on the roof, because through it the most heat is lost. The house is designed in such a way as to minimize heat loss. That's why our house is called energy-saving.
This factor is given great importance. This is due to the fact that the largest expense in maintaining a house and other real estate is usually heating. A house is built once, but will have to be maintained for the rest of its life.
We conducted an experiment:
The temperature in the house was + 10 degrees, outside the temperature was minus 15-17 degrees. All heating devices were turned off, a day later they took measurements and the temperature was + 8 degrees. Without heating, in cold weather, an energy-saving house with an area of 120 sq.m. I lost only 2 degrees.
17. Plastering and puttying of internal walls in an energy-saving house.
The walls are primed and after drying, the chips are filled. Next, the internal surfaces are plastered with a layer of 6-10 mm, plaster mixture for interior work based on gypsum (Rotband Knauf). Before applying the putty, it must be additionally primed and allowed to dry. The putty is made in 3 layers.
18. Application decorative plaster"bark beetle" in an energy-saving house.
For decorative plaster, we chose “bark beetle” texture, 2.5 mm filler. VGT plaster has excellent protective characteristics and creates a very durable coating without interfering with air exchange.
The color was chosen according to the general style. Applying such plaster requires certain skills and experience; application is carried out from edge to edge.
19. Construction of blind areas, paths and parking spaces in an energy-saving house.
For correct device, it is necessary to remove a layer of earth about 40 cm deep. After this, the base is filled with crushed stone and compacted.
On top, add a layer of sand, which is moistened and compacted well. Next, it is necessary to install a mesh to prevent cracks and fractures. On all surfaces concrete structures, there is a slight slope to drain rainwater.
Also, the site has a drainage system that removes excess water from the site underground. The paths and blind area are 100 cm wide, not only for drainage of precipitation, but also for ease of movement along them. There is a convenient entrance for cars on the site.
For a convenient location of two cars, the area is concreted, while you can move freely, cars do not block the passage. It is possible to accommodate larger vehicles.
There is a concrete area for barbecue. Shashlik maker, made in the same stylistic direction. Good for the device drainage system and leveling the site, 10 cubic meters of crushed stone and 40 cubic meters of sand were used.
20. Planting a lawn on the site of an energy-saving house.
To install a lawn, it is necessary to create a fertile layer of chernozem about 10 cm. The chernozem is leveled over the site with a slight slope to drain water and comply with the general landscape of the site.
For planting, we used low-growing lawn. On the site there are also: 6 pines, 3 fir trees, 2 cherries, one plum, small raspberry bushes. For gardening, there is an area behind the house. We fundamentally do not use any chemicals, pesticides, herbicides, etc. We are firmly in favor of a healthy lifestyle and this aspect is not indifferent to us.
21. Construction of a summer veranda in an energy-saving house.
The summer veranda is made in a modern style, mixed with Provence, artificially aged, timber 150 X 150 mm and 100 X 100 mm. All lower parts have reliable protection. They underwent two-time treatment with neomid, then two-time treatment with bitumen mastic.
The upper parts of the veranda were treated with neomid, marilka and 2 times of yacht varnish. On the veranda, there is a table made of solid pine, 100 mm thick, in the same style, with the addition of real masculine brutality.
The house has a place for a fireplace on the ground floor in the kitchen-living room. The chimney pipe should pass through the wall behind the fireplace, under the stairs and through the wall to the street, then rises to the roof.
In such a house it is not necessary to install gas, since it retains heat very well. If the fireplace is running in winter, the energy consumption will be quite insignificant. This house was planned to be the most modern system heating, infrared with adjustable temperature sensors. Infrared film is mounted under drywall.
If the house is well insulated, then the system operates only 10-15% of the time per day, which ensures low consumption. If you look into it and see the facts, then gas is necessary if the house is poorly insulated. During winter, electricity bills add up to significant amounts.
But this is not a problem either, the gas has already been piped to the neighboring houses, the pipe runs 1 meter from the fence, and can be connected if desired.
22. Buy an Energy Saving House
If you decide to buy an energy-saving house, in our opinion, the advantage is obvious: the price is the same as that of similar ones, and the maintenance is much more profitable. and this is not only in winter; in summer, air conditioning is practically not needed. One of the main tasks when building an energy-saving house was to preserve affordable price to the object. It seems to us that we have completed this task. Many believe that the price of such houses will be exorbitant, we tried to dispel these doubts and create a property in an affordable price segment.
E energy saving house price is 7,500,000 rubles, this is the price of a good one-room apartment in Moscow. :)
As a gift from our studio, we are giving free development of a design project for this house.
Sincerely, Mira-Style Design Studio.
Tel: 8 495 507 91 56
Email: [email protected]