How to build a house from timber with your own hands with photos. How to build a house from timber yourself? Nuances of construction

I wanted to build a house. I immediately encountered the problem of choosing a material. There wasn’t much money, but I wanted a house that was reliable, warm and durable. Having studied the offers of the modern construction market, I decided to settle on timber.

On the forums they advise building houses from timber with a cross-section of 15x15 cm. But I had to build it myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I didn’t want to involve outside workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter beam. Instead, I bought dry material with a cross section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood shrinks, I will insulate the walls from the outside mineral wool, and the house will be warm.

To further save on construction costs, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story as an example of guidance and navigate the situation.

First, I cleared the area under the house from debris, bushes and other things that were in the way. After this, I began laying out the foundation.

I had to think for a long time about what type of foundation would be suitable specifically for my area. I studied the geological conditions, learned the composition of the soil and the level of groundwater. Specialized reference literature helped me with this. Additionally, I asked my neighbors what foundations their houses were on.

I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions make it possible to save on the construction of foundations, so most neighbors have houses on light supports made of limestone and concrete. Most often, they even refuse reinforcement - such is the wonderful soil we have. The soil is sandy, therefore, it is not “heaving”. The water runs deep, and wooden houses weigh little. Therefore, there is no need to install buried monolithic supports in my region.

The foundation began by digging a trench. To begin with, I removed the fertile ball. Sand appeared. To make it seal better, I filled it with water. Then he lined the trenches with stone and laid two reinforcing bars. I tied them up in the corners. I think that the tape is best reinforced both at the bottom and at the top. So I did.

To save yourself from unnecessary work, you could order a ready-made construction concrete with delivery. However, in my region this turned out to be unrealistic - there are simply no such proposals. And my plot is such that the truck would have to go through the garden, but I don’t need that.

Plus, ready-mixed concrete is expensive, but sand on my site is free. I ordered the stone with delivery - it turned out relatively inexpensively. I made inquiries: in Moscow, even calling an empty truck would be more expensive. It would have been possible to save additional money by collecting the stones myself on the river, but I had no such need.

I tried mixing concrete by hand. I quickly became convinced of the pointlessness of this event - it turns out to be too long and labor-intensive. I purchased a concrete mixer brand SM-160. It is relatively inexpensive, and will definitely come in handy on the farm.

I started mixing concrete. The process went quickly and fun. The concrete mixer is very easy to use - it can be moved along the dug hole without any difficulty. I used a sheet for pouring concrete, as can be seen in the picture. I placed several supports under the sheet to prevent the material from bending.

The seller of the concrete mixer immediately warned me that when using the unit, there is no need to cover the plastic casing where the motor is installed, otherwise it may overheat. After completing the work, I close the concrete mixer every time plastic film in case of rain.

The concrete mixer helped to quickly prepare the required amount of solution. I laid stones in the concrete. So I filled the foundation strip to the ground level. The above-ground part of the tape was laid out on a thicker mortar using the same stone.

A little short of reaching the top of the foundation, I installed a reinforcing frame. The masonry was done with smaller stones.

The foundation is almost ready. I left it to gain strength. The base does not look very neat and even, but in the future nothing will prevent it from being finished and put in order. For example, finishing the above-ground part of the base can be done using plaster - a traditional option for rustic and country houses. More modern solution– special decorative panels.

I saved a lot while working. For example, I did not make formwork, but used cheap local materials - stones and sand - to construct the foundation. Even taking into account the cost of my concrete mixer, the foundation turned out cheaper than if I had ordered ready-made concrete and assembled the formwork.

Foundation

Alas, you won’t be able to save this much in every region. For example, if I lived somewhere in the Moscow region, I would have to make formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then pour in the building mixture.

While the concrete gains strength (and it needs 3-4 weeks for this), I will start preparing consumables.

Foundation

Preparatory activities

Preparing dowels

The connection of the beam crowns is carried out using wooden dowels. I decided to make them from scrap boards left over from other construction projects. In my case it was the installation of roof sheathing.

For dowels, use as much as possible hard wood. The process of making fasteners is extremely simple. I took some scrap boards and edged them on one side using a matching saw.

Then I set the stop and started sawing to size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I received neat and beautiful blanks.

I sawed the planks using band saw. On the way out I received a whole box wooden sticks. Next, I sharpened the blanks with an ax on each side and got my dowels.

Moss preparation

Dowels, sphagnum peat moss and boards

The technology requires that inter-crown insulation be laid between each crown of the timber. Professionals usually insulate roll materials. Working with them is easy and convenient - just roll out the material on top of the laid crown and you can continue working. However, convenience and ease of processing come at a price.

I decided not to waste money and use moss. Firstly, this material is abundant in nature - go and collect it. Secondly, moss is not only a decent insulator, but also an excellent antiseptic. Additionally, I studied thematic forums: moss is actively used as interventional insulation, and there are no negative reviews about it.

Red or peat moss is best suited for insulation. The first is characterized by high rigidity. The second one becomes brittle after drying. If possible, it is best to use red moss. It is easy to recognize - it has long stems with leaves that resemble a Christmas tree.

Making joints

I make them for every door and window opening. For this I use a flat beam. If possible, there should be no knots at all. For greater convenience, I made an impromptu workbench directly next to my stack of lumber. Made longitudinal cuts. A circular saw helped me with this. Excess material was removed using a chisel.

Not even every professional carpenter can make the right joint. Therefore, I decided to make window jambs using simplified technology. In every window opening I will install only a couple of vertical jambs. The window block itself will be responsible for the horizontal connection.

To install the block you need a “quarter”. However, here too I figured out how to simplify the task. Instead of sampling (it's shaded in the photo), I decided to glue in a strip. To do this, I sharpened the plane in advance. The result was no worse than it would have been in a situation using a quarter.

It is impossible to reduce the number of jambs in the doorway - all four are needed. However, the shape of the products can be significantly simplified.

I chose grooves in the block, which in the future will serve as a threshold, similar to the recesses in the side jambs. This allowed me to slide the bottom timber over the tenons of the opening. However, at this stage, the timber would have to be cut with a chisel across the wood fibers - not the most pleasant or simple task. I found a great way out of this situation! Taking a circular saw, I prepared the cuts by first setting the appropriate blade exit and making a rip fence.

Then I took a feather drill and made a hole 2.5 cm in diameter, just like for the dowels. Finally, I cut out an even rectangle across the wood grain. A reciprocating saw helped me with this.

Carpenters usually make two rectangular nests in the threshold, and at the bottom of each vertical jamb they create a counter protrusion, cutting down and sawing out excess wood using a chisel. I decided to make holes as for fastening dowels, and hammered in a couple of fasteners. I made similar holes at the bottom of the jambs.

I haven’t touched the upper horizontal beam yet, but I nailed a small board to the threshold - it will take on the functions of a “quarter”. The design of the opening turned out to be extremely simple, but this does not interfere with its ability to cope with its main function. Later I will plan the opening and glue the “quarters”.

Required Tools

To build a house from wooden beams, I used following tools and accessories:

• hammerless electric drill;
• circular saw;
• roulette;
• sledgehammer;
• electric plane;
• square;
• reciprocating saw;
• plumb line;
• hammer;
• water hose;
• axe.

I bought a circular saw to cut wooden beams. I had to cut in two steps. First, I drew a line along the square, after which I cut, turned the beam over and made the cut again. It is best to transfer the line to the second edge of the beam using a square. If you are confident in your “eye”, you can cut “by eye”.

Using a circular saw, I made tenons and grooves for corner connections bars When arranging the tenons, I lacked a slight depth of cut, so I had to make a couple of extra movements with a hacksaw.

We are building a house

Rules for laying the lower crown

Laying the starter crown is traditionally done with a joint known as "into the wood floor". This unit can be made without any problems with a circular saw - just cut the material lengthwise and crosswise. In some areas the depth of the cut turned out to be insufficient - here I worked with a hacksaw, after which I got rid of excess material using a chisel. By the way, in my case, the lower crown is the only one that is connected with nails.

I placed the lower crown on board linings. There are gaps between the elements - in the future I will make vents there. In my region they are usually in the wall, not in concrete base. This option has its advantages. Firstly, making vents in the wall is easier and faster. Secondly, at a certain elevation the wind moves at a higher speed than directly near the ground, due to which the underground will be better ventilated.

Cutting timber. Half-tree connection

I'm going to mount the floor beams on the pads - this way, I think, the loads on the base will be distributed more evenly.

The linings and timber of the lower crown were covered with an antiseptic. As practice shows, the material laid at the very bottom rots most quickly. In my situation, there are pads underneath, and not the timber itself. In the future, if the boards rot, they can be replaced with much less effort than the beam of the lower crown.

Features of laying the second and subsequent crowns

Starting from the second crown of masonry, work is carried out in the same order. At the corners I connected the timber with the help of root tenons - the usual joining of elements is unacceptable here.

Taking a circular saw, I trimmed a couple of cuts. I transferred the cutting line to the second face using a square. The root tenon is easy to do, everything is demonstrated in the photo. If the disk output is insufficient, the depth can be increased with a hacksaw. The groove is made even simpler. Also demonstrated, but in the photo.

Important note! Keep in mind that in tongue-and-groove joints there should be approximately a 0.5-centimeter gap for laying the seal. A connection in which the wood simply touches the wood is unacceptable.

I first set the cutting depth I needed. With my saw, you can change the output of the blade without any problems - you just need to loosen the lever. The add-on is convenient to use. If in traditional carpentry production the master sets some parameter of the working tool and prepares required amount blanks of the same type, then in carpentry the situation is somewhat different: the material is dragged onto the workbench, and the depth of the cut is adjusted directly as the work progresses.

My saw is equipped thin disk– cutting requires much less effort. The safety guard moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut in any way.

The walls of my house will be longer than the timber, so I will have to join the building material. To do this, I made a notch at both ends of the long beam, removed the excess with a chisel, and got a tenon in the middle. The ledge is ready, now we need a groove. Cutting wood with a chisel across the grain is impractical. I used a trick and drilled a simple through hole in the second beam. The length of the drill was not enough to create through hole, so I had to drill from both sides. Next, I cut off the excess wood from the workpiece, made markings and cut the timber along the grain using a chisel. Connected the spliced ​​beams. The gaps were filled with moss.

Helpful advice. In the crown, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to immediately make spikes for the jambs of this opening. In the process of cutting timber, it will not be possible to completely make tenons with a saw; you will need to additionally chisel with a chisel to complete the process. On next photo you see the bars already with fastening spikes. Thresholds for door openings are shown as templates.

I laid the second crown on the lower one, correctly performing the corner joints and the necessary splices along the length. It's time to make markings for installing dowels - the connectors of the crowns of my house under construction. I took a square and made vertical marks on the bars at the bottom and top, in the places where the fasteners would be placed. Turned over the top beam. I moved the markings to the center of my beam. Then I drilled holes for the fasteners and drove the dowels into them using a hammer.

What do you need to know about dowels?

Logically, a round dowel would need to be driven into a round hole. Builders adhere to a different technology and use square dowels. Such fasteners are simpler to manufacture and hold the connection much more reliably. In this case, a short dowel will not interfere with the process of shrinkage of the structure.

The problem is that it is impossible to drill a strictly vertical hole with a hand drill without the slightest deviation. When installing the beam of the next crown on a pointed and slightly protruding dowel, the first one will wobble a little. In order for the timber to be firmly fixed, it must be additionally hammered with a sledgehammer.

The dowels I use work for shear and ensure correct shrinkage even if there are minor deviations from the vertical in the mounting holes. There will be no gaps. Firstly, the timber will shrink. Secondly, the space between the crowns is filled with insulation, which I will discuss later.

Once I had to watch how builders made holes in a wall made of timber using long drill and they drove long round pins into them, outwardly similar to the handles of a shovel or a rake. Were such holes vertical? Naturally not. Ultimately, the beam did not settle, but seemed to “hang” on the dowels, which led to the formation of impressive gaps between the crowns.

Having driven in the dowels, I laid tow and moss on the crown. He laid the tow across the beams. The moss was simply thrown over the tow. As a result, tow hangs from the walls. This will make it easier for me to caulk the walls in the future. Moss will provide adequate insulation of the building.

I installed the beams on the dowels, laid the tow, threw on the moss, sieged the crown with a sledgehammer, but for some reason it is still wobbly. This happens due to the presence of gaps in the corner joints. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I filled them tightly with moss. A spatula and a narrow strip of metal helped me with this.

The attentive reader will ask: what about tow? Shouldn't it be put in the corners too? No no need. Firstly, as I said earlier, moss is a very good natural antiseptic. My house will stand for quite a long time without any finishing, and sedimentary moisture will continually flow into the corners. Moss will prevent the wood from rotting in these places. Secondly, in the future the timber in the corners will probably have to be planed. Moss will not interfere with this. Tow can cause the plane to break.

Now my corners are strong, insulated and windproof. At the end of the day I covered the corner joints to protect them from possible precipitation.

In the picture you can see that one of my beams is located higher than the other. But they must be at the same height. We are not in a hurry to immediately turn on the electric planer - such a problem can be easily dealt with using a simple sledgehammer.

I worked with a plane at the very end, when the obstacle to the installation of the next crown became clearly visible. I used a plane to compare small “screws” and “humps”. I compensated for more significant differences in height with the help of tow and moss - their arrangement takes much less time than processing wood with a plane.

Why should we build a house?

You have already become familiar with the basic principles of laying each crown. Eat important nuances. Firstly, the crowns must be laid with alternating corner joints. Secondly, the internal load-bearing wall of the house must be connected to the longitudinal wall. This is done through one crown. For binding I use an already proven and familiar connection. Only I drill the holes for the dowels “checkerboard” in relation to the lower rims. After this, I lay down the tow and moss, and placing each beam in its designated place, I seal the joints in the corners.

That is, the procedure for building a house is extremely simple:

• I'm laying out another crown;
• I make markings for dowels;
• I drill holes;
• I drive in wooden fasteners;
• I lay down the tow and throw moss on it;
• I repeat the sequence.

Along the length of the beams I join using the “staggered” method.

Having reached the height of the window sill (this is my seventh crown), I made markings for arranging the window openings. I calculated the width of each opening by adding the dimensions of the jambs and sealed gaps to the width of the purchased window block. There should be a pair of gaps on each side of the opening - between the jamb and the one being installed. window block, as well as between the jamb and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the required width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of this, 155 mm was spent on gaps.

Based on the calculation results, I installed a crown with a window opening, having previously cut tenons in the bars, similar to the stage with openings for doors.

The next crowns with a window opening were laid from timber without tenons, observing the same overall dimensions.

I constructed all the window openings from “short pieces”, the evenness of which was disrupted during the shrinkage of the timber - such material is not suitable for walls, and it would be a pity to throw it away. I didn't make any jumpers. While arranging the opening, I constantly checked its evenness using a plumb line. I also checked the walls.

I temporarily secured the separate partition with slats so that it would not fall during the work. The T-shaped structure, as well as the corner, do not require additional strengthening - they are perfectly supported by their own weight.

Important note! In places where the tenons of the opening and the cutting line are arranged, i.e. just a few centimeters from the edge, I did not lay the oakum, because... when cutting, it would wrap around the cutting disc. In the future, the tow can be tapped from the ends without any problems.

After laying the last crown with the window opening (it needs to be laid temporarily without fastening or compacting), I removed the top beams and made cuts for the tenons. He put blunts on them. Having set the saw blade to the required depth, I installed a parallel stop to maintain the required distance from the edge. It didn’t take me much time to do this kind of work. I was unable to cut the timber to the required depth with a circular saw - I had to finish it with a hacksaw.

I made tenons at the lower rim of the opening to control my assembly. I didn’t do this in the last crown - in the future, tenons will still have to be created in each beam.

On personal experience I was convinced that assembling the entire height of the opening for a window without a connection, and from not quite “short” ones, is not the easiest task.

Light and short cuttings can be tried on before creating a recess or tenon. It may well turn out that a block deviating to the right will fall on a beam that deviates to the left. As a result, a flat wall will be built. If both beams have a deviation in the same direction, you can’t count on the evenness of the wall.

To eliminate deviations, you can plan out the “screws” using a plane or lay the timber “ladder”. I had exactly the second case. I also eliminated the gap using a plane. At each stage, I checked the verticality of the openings being constructed using a plumb line.

Installing jambs and finishing work

The upper crown was laid. It's time to install the jambs of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements strength will be significantly increased finished design. The bottom beam of each opening is equipped with a full-fledged tenon. On the upper beams there are cuts in the required places. I apply the guide, set the desired cutting depth and make the cut with a circular saw. After this, I draw a couple of lines from the ends according to the dimensions of the tenon and get rid of excess material using a chisel.

My tenons are smaller than the grooves. I fill the gaps with thermal insulation material. If you wish, you can make the tenons wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing the house, cut off the excess material and fill the gaps with sealant.

I inserted temporary spacers between the jambs. In the future, I planned to add a veranda to my house. If you are planning to make an extension, do not lay the top crown of the timber before starting its construction. I also mounted a smaller one on the crown.

The box is ready. I covered it with a temporary roof, closed every opening and left the house until the next season. The timber will have time to shrink. After that I will continue, which I will definitely tell you about in my next story.

Instead of a conclusion

While the house is shrinking, I decided to take stock. Firstly, I was pleased that I had to spend much less money on the foundation compared to other types of supports. It took a little money to dump the stone. There is also a lot of sand in my region - you can dig it yourself and bring it. Most of the money was spent on cement and reinforcement.

Secondly, I was pleased with the affordable cost and relatively low consumption of building materials. When the timber was delivered to me, I laid it out in a stack about a meter high and two meters wide. At first it seemed that I had miscalculated somewhere and that I would not have enough material. As a result, about 20 beams remained unused. In general, for the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m (the timber part of it is 6x7.5 m), I spent about 7.5 m3 of timber with a cross-section of 15x10 cm. For timber 15x15 cm I would have spent 1.5 times more money. And additional labor would have to be hired, which is also not free.

Thirdly, I saved on fasteners and thermal insulation. Nageli made it himself, the moss is free. My friends gladly gave the oakum to me after finishing their construction work.

Fourthly, I did not have to buy highly specialized and expensive tools. Everything that I used for construction will be useful to me on the farm in the future. I am especially pleased to have purchased a good circular saw and concrete mixers.

Now about the speed of work. I didn’t have much experience in timber construction. As practice has shown, in a whole day, working with one hand and provided the weather is good outside, you can lay out one crown with a partition. You can do this either faster or slower, I won’t argue.

And the main advantage of such construction is that you do not need to have any special skills to carry it out. And I was personally convinced of this.

I hope that my story will be useful to you, and you can, just like me, make your dream of owning your own home come true.

Video - DIY timber house

Every person should have a roof over their head, which can be an apartment in multi-storey building or a private house. And if it is enough for women to earn money for an apartment, complete the purchase and sale transaction and move in, then men, according to the ancient Russian rule, need to build this house with their own hands. And this is an excellent option to discover new abilities in yourself and at the same time save a lot on hiring professional construction workers. The art of construction wooden houses you can figure it out on your own. The main thing is to choose the right material and technology for constructing a residential building.

There are no gaps in a house made of timber, since all structural elements fit tightly together, preventing heat from escaping outside.

Most often they are inclined to choose wooden structures, for example, laminated veneer lumber or rounded logs. The technology for their construction is the same, but the quality of the materials is different. You can build a house from timber with your own hands with 2-3 helpers. You don’t need heavy equipment for this, but you only need to purchase:

• concrete mixing machine;
• a pump that pumps concrete;
• chainsaw;
• winch;
• and other small carpenter’s tools, with the help of which you can not only assemble a log house, but also, if necessary, adjust its component elements.

What should the house look like?

Photo No. 1. The height of the boards above the trench level must be at least 40 cm.

A do-it-yourself house, the building material for which will be timber, can be built not too high - no more than 3 floors. Such qualities of this lumber guarantee a favorable indoor climate, Beautiful design and durability of service, of course, subject to compliance with the instructions and correct operation premises. The advantage of using timber is that, unlike logs, it has flat edges, which allow you to spend less effort and time on subsequently making the internal and external finishing building. At the same time, this design will allow you to attach absolutely any accessories on the walls, with the help of which the interior interior space will be decorated. Moreover, the use of this kind of wood prevents heat from escaping due to the fact that the components wooden house fit tightly to each other.

Photo No. 2. Ready solution The consistency should be similar to thick sour cream.

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Initial stages of construction

Everyone knows that every building must have a foundation, which determines how long the house will stand and how it will serve.

Wood is quite heavy, and therefore requires the construction of a strong, reliable foundation, in no way inferior to that which is laid, for example, under a stone building.

Photo No. 3. Steel wire or metal mesh is used to reinforce the foundation.

If you are planning to make a cellar under the house or basement, then you should choose the traditional belt type foundation. But when deciding such an important issue, it is not enough to take into account only practical features building, it is also important to assess the condition of the soil, which prevails in the area allocated for construction. It’s good if the soil is predominantly sandy, on which you can create any foundation, even a shallow one, but not everyone is so lucky. In most cases, the site has wet, viscous and loose soil; the correct solution in this case would be to use a pile foundation. Small sizes the house can be built on a reinforced concrete slab, which will serve as a subfloor for the first floor.

The pile-grillage version of the foundation is similar in construction to the strip foundation, however, in this case, metal piles are also wrapped in trenches. It is used on loose soils that differ increased level freezing. The most popular option is tape, which can withstand enormous loads, and it can be erected without the use of heavy equipment - only with the help of a shovel, reinforcing mesh and concrete mortar. This type of foundation is best suited for building a private house. To begin, carefully determine the perimeter of the future house and begin marking the territory, indicating its position on the spot, taking into account internal partitions and walls.

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Construction of a strip foundation for a timber house

Photo No. 4. The first crown of timber is laid on transverse slats; the gaps will provide ventilation in the house.

It is necessary to mark the trenches so that their width exceeds the width of the home walls by 10 cm. At the digging stage, if it is necessary to create a basement, you need to dig a hole under it according to the dimensions that you would like to have. The foundation must be laid to a depth that exceeds the level of soil freezing, therefore, trenches are dug at least 60 cm deep. Fill their bottom sand cushion, the layer of which is 10 cm, another 10 cm of gravel or crushed stone is placed on top of it. The sand must be moistened with clean water and compacted, thereby ensuring sufficient density of the base, concrete foundation will not sag.

After this, removable formwork is organized, to create which you need to take unedged boards 2.5 cm thick and put together fences from them, which are placed along the entire perimeter of the foundation, making a kind of stretching of the trenches in height (photo No. 1). In this case, the boards will have to rise above the level of the trench by at least 40 cm. The external and internal parts of the formwork for the fortress must be pulled together using a board nailed between them. Reinforcement must be laid inside the foundation, which will significantly strengthen the foundation of the building. You can use metal mesh or steel wire as reinforcement (photo No. 3). Then proceed to mixing the concrete solution, which will be used to fill the dug trenches. So, to create the perfect mixture, take 1 part M400 cement, 3 parts river sand, 5 parts gravel and 200 g plasticizer. All these ingredients are mixed in a concrete mixer, into which another 13-14 liters of water are gradually added.

Subsequent crowns are joined together by grooves or ridges, which are located at the upper and lower ends of the beam.

A well-mixed solution should resemble the consistency of thick sour cream (photo No. 2). It is directed into the trench using a special concrete pump. Make sure that no air bubbles form in the structure of the poured concrete; for this and to ensure that the surface of the foundation is level, you need to use a cement vibrator. The unhardened solution is moistened from above with water. This is necessary to prevent the solution from hardening very quickly. In order for it to completely dry and gain strength, the construction site must be left alone for about 1 month, after which work can continue.

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Technology for constructing a building from timber with your own hands

There are several ways to build a log house; recently it has become very popular frame construction, long known abroad - in Europe and Canada. This method is easy to construct and economical. However, not for all climate zones Russian Federation he comes up. Therefore, the best option would be to follow the classic technology of building a house. As a building material, it is necessary to use wood that will contain such qualities as strength, durability, durability and ease of processing. Several tree species have them, but the most accessible ones include larch, spruce and pine. Of course, no one forbids using cedar in work, but it is too expensive.

So, having brought the building material, begin laying out the first crowns, which will serve as the basis for the log house. The first beam under the house with your own hands must be laid on a foundation covered with two layers waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt, which is covered with bitumen and heated, practically melting it. Before laying the timber on the prepared surface, all lumber should be treated with an antiseptic solution, which will protect the wood from rotting and damage from insect pests. At the same time, fire retardant compounds are used to protect the wood from the danger of combustion. Each log will need to be soaked separately. Sometimes construction companies supply already processed beams, which are much more expensive than untreated ones.

In order to attach the first crown to the foundation, you can use one of two options:

• lay it on the support board;
• lay on cross slats.

The latter option looks more practical, since it can be used to create an additional gap, which will ensure ventilation in the house. To do this, prepare several slats, the thickness of which is 1 cm. They are attached to the foundation lining in a transverse arrangement in increments of 30 cm. Do not forget to check the evenness of the created surface with a building level, with the help of which the evenness of laying the timber with a section of 15x15 cm is regulated (photo No. 4 ).

Having decided on the location and size of the tape, we carry out the markings.

For this purpose internal corners drive pieces into the ground steel reinforcement 1 meter long by 70 cm deep.

Instead, you can use wooden pegs of similar length. We install the same racks in places where the jumpers for the partitions branch off from the main strip.

We tie the driven supports around the perimeter with a strong, brightly colored nylon cord so that they are clearly visible. After this, we retreat outward onto the designed tape and perform the second marking contour. Thus, we obtain the boundaries of the future foundation.

The markings should be treated with due care. Mistakes at this stage will lead to problems at all subsequent ones.

Ground work and installation of formwork

The soil between the marking lines must be removed to the required depth. For a permanent structure, it can be 1.5 - 2 meters, depending on the level of soil freezing.

The correct foundation trench contributes to the quality of the strip foundation.

Tape reinforcement

A prerequisite for obtaining quality monolithic foundation is the presence of a recessed steel frame - armored belt. It is made from special corrugated steel rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm, called reinforcement. To connect parts, two main ones are used:

• Gas or electric welding.
• Twisting with soft steel tying wire.

The second option is more widespread, as it can be performed by unskilled workers quite quickly. To carry it out, use a specialized tool or simple pliers (pliers).

To make an armored belt, long rods are cut to fit the sides of the tape and many shorter pieces are installed vertically and across the foundation. The length of the short parts should ensure that the reinforcing frame is indented from the formwork and the top of the foundation by at least 10 cm.

A simple technique will help ensure high foundation strength in corners and at the junction of walls and partitions - lay reinforcement there, previously bent at 90 degrees.

Before installing the armored belt, the bottom of the trenches is filled with clean seeded sand layer 10-15 cm and compacted thoroughly, after slightly moistening it. The second layer is filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction and compacted as well. After this, you can install the reinforcement and begin concreting the tape.

The correct armored belt is the key to the quality of the base of the house, its foundation.

Concreting the foundation

A mixture of sand, cement and crushed stone with water can be poured into a prepared trench, limited by formwork. It is not difficult to prepare it directly on the site on your own or buy it ready-made at the nearest concrete plant. Both options have advantages and disadvantages.

Self-production of concrete significantly increases the time needed to manufacture the foundation, since it can be obtained in small batches after each loading of components.

It will not be possible to completely fill the tape with concrete in a day, so the work will need to be repeated. The layered structure of concrete is less durable.

Purchase ready mixture will allow you to fill the foundation with one layer in a few hours. It will be enough to ensure that the mixer can drive directly to the construction site. A significant disadvantage of this is the cost of ready-made concrete, which slightly exceeds the total cost of purchasing its components.

Once poured, the concrete must reach maximum strength before construction can continue. This may take from several weeks to several months, depending on the thickness of the layer.

During the first days, the tape must be kept covered with burlap, which prevents the top layers of concrete from drying out. It is recommended to periodically moisten the fabric by sprinkling from a watering can.

Compliance with concrete technology is the key to the quality of the foundation.

We erect walls and partitions - we cut a log house

A log frame made of timber can be installed on a pre-conditioned foundation.

It can be purchased ready-made or made on site.

The second option is longer, since you can build a house from 150x150 timber yourself without using construction equipment very hard.

The weight of such lumber in a wet state can exceed 130 kg.

A layer must be laid on the foundation.

Roofing felt or glassine tapes are often used for this purpose. The first wall parallel beams with the quarters removed at the ends are laid on them.

Perpendicular to them, a couple more parts are placed with grooves pre-selected at the ends, made according to markings using a chain or circular saw. This is how the first crown of the log house is obtained.

At the required distance from the soil, floor beams are cut into the crown, placing them parallel in increments of about a meter. They must be held securely, since in the future they will be covered with boards. Additionally, they can be fixed with construction staples bent from steel rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm.

To ensure the strength of the wall structure, individual crowns are connected to each other using dowels - wooden cylinders made of hardwood.

To install them in several crowns, as a rule, holes are drilled in three, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the rods. Next, the dowels are driven into them using a sledgehammer and partially deepened.

Thermal insulation of a house under construction can be ensured by laying a special tape between each crown. In the case of using profiled timber that has a different rectangular shape section, the width of the tapes is taken a little smaller, for a non-profiled one it is equal to its width.

As a rule, the insulation is fixed to the lower rims using a construction stapler with staples 10-12 mm long.

Log house – essential element the entire building. The peace and health of residents depends on its quality.

Don't forget to make openings

During the construction of walls, it is necessary to leave window and door openings in external walls and partitions free. Their location is determined according to the project, the height from the floor is 80-100 cm.

To save strength characteristics before it shrinks in the openings, they try to preserve one middle beam entirely, thus dividing the hole in the wall approximately in half. Subsequently, before installing windows and doors, the data is cut out.

The technology for making openings is simple, but this stage must be approached with full responsibility.

Installation of interfloor slabs and ceiling beams

If according to the project your house has more than one floor, you cannot avoid installing interfloor covering, which will simultaneously serve as the basis of the ceiling and floor. In this regard, its details are subject to high requirements by quality. They must be well dried and have the correct geometric shape.

To install the floors proceed as follows. In the lower crown, at a height of 2.2-2.5 meters from the floor level of the first floor, grooves are made, the width of which is equal to the width of the beams, and the depth is not more than half the thickness of the crown beams.

In the parts of the next layer, similar sockets are made with the same pitch. Place the upper crown with the grooves down and secure it with dowels. You can drive rods through the ends of the cross beams.

Proceed in the same way when installing the upper attic floor. When the under-roof is not in use, the installation step of the beams may be larger, and when it is in use, it can be smaller.

The safety of residents depends on the quality of the floors.

Roof and roof installation

A complex and responsible structure is the roof of a house.

Errors made during its manufacture can damage the entire structure of the building.

Schematically, the roof can be represented by a set of inclined rafter beams, one end resting on the ridge beam, the other on the upper crown of the frame.

By the number of slopes (sloping flat sides) upper structures at home there are:

• Single-pitch
• Gable
• Four-slope (hip)
• Multi-slope
• Hip roofs (multi-slope with a large rafter angle)

Traditional for our country is a gable roof with hemmed gables, as well as an attic roof with large usable spaces under the roof. It is made from roof trusses made from rafters connected to each other in the upper third by cross members.

Install them vertically and sheathe the outside with coniferous unedged board 25 mm thick - lathing.

To cover the gables, an additional frame of bars is attached to the outer trusses. Sometimes they are installed at one or both ends of the house. In this case, you can reduce the under-roof spaces, leaving a few square meters open.

To protect the house from moisture, the roof must be covered with some kind of roofing material. The most common ones today include:

• Profiled sheet – profiled sheets made of galvanized steel
• Ondulin - corrugated sheets of high strength and low weight
• Bituminous shingles
• Ceramic tiles

The specific choice of one type or another depends on a number of factors, not the least of which is the overall construction budget. Some roofing materials are more expensive, while others are quite affordable for every buyer.

Preparing the roof for installation of each specific type of coating is also different. For ondulin and profiled sheets, a standard board sheathing is sufficient. For bitumen shingles it is necessary to lay sheets of plywood or OSB.

For a wooden frame, it is better to use natural finishing. Making a roof with your own hands is not difficult if you follow a number of mandatory rules and process technology. Quality construction can only be achieved by using quality materials.

The final stage of work is exterior and interior finishing.

After installing the roof, laying the roof and sheathing the gables, you need to let the house sit for several months. During this time, a slight shrinkage of the log house will occur due to the drying of the timber.

Only after this can you finish the house - install windows and doors, install interfloor stairs, sheathe the walls outside and inside, lay the floor and hem the ceiling.

The walls can be sheathed with high-quality eurolining, the floor can be laid with tongue-and-groove boards made of larch or cedar. They will look beautiful and wooden stairs with turned or flat ones, leading to the porch or upper floors.

Thus, we looked at how to build a house from timber yourself, photos of which can be found on every site on the network. The technology of work is complex and will require a lot of time, effort and financial costs, but it's worth it. As a result, you will get a unique structure in which every corner will be familiar to you.

Exterior decoration of a house made of timber - on video:

One of the most interesting, popular and widely used materials for the construction of private houses and cottages today is timber. The construction of a residential building from timber requires much more modest financial investments and time costs than building a house from more conventional materials. Moreover, in the case of timber, you can carry out all construction activities with your own hands.

Before starting any work, you need to draw up a plan for your future home. If you do not have design skills, entrust this work to some third-party organization or select suitable drawings from open sources.

Before you start designing, you need to establish the optimal dimensions of the future structure. When choosing the optimal dimensions, focus primarily on the available space, as well as your personal needs.

If you have a small family and a little free space, you can give preference to a small log house measuring 3x4 m. If properly arranged, even in such a small building there will be enough usable space. The lack of space can be compensated for by a terrace or attic space.

If there are no special problems with space, but you still don’t want to build a huge building, build a house measuring 5x4 m.

Standard sizes for summer and summer cottages timber houses are indicators at the level of 6x6 m, 6x8 m, etc. Such a house can already be made two-story without any fear.

For the rest, focus on the conditions of your specific situation. The larger your family, the larger the area the house should have. In most cases, everything is limited solely by the size of the plot and the available budget.

Buy timber whose cross-section best matches the dimensions of the future home. The thicker the timber, the less money you will have to spend on thermal insulation material and sound insulation.

Usually for construction load-bearing walls use timber 200x200 mm. For construction small house in a region with a mild climate, you can use material with a cross-section of 150x150 mm or even 100x100 mm.

During the process of assembling the walls, it is necessary to lay a sealant made of flax or jute between the rows. This seal allows you to get rid of all the cracks and additionally insulate the walls.

Before starting construction work, be sure to study the properties of the soil on your site. It is quite difficult to cope with such work on your own - it is better to immediately contact a specialist. Additionally, you need to find out the level of groundwater flow.

Select the length of the beam in accordance with the size of the house. The standard length of the elements is 600 cm. If the walls of your future home will be longer, try to find a company that can produce timber to your dimensions. This will require additional financial investments, but solid timber is superior to prefabricated elements in all respects.

The timber requires mandatory finishing treatment with a water-repellent composition. Without such impregnation, the material will very soon begin to become moldy and rot, and as a result will be completely destroyed.

If it is necessary to insulate a finished house, it is best to place thermal insulation materials from the inside. Mineral wool heat insulators are excellent for insulation, with the obligatory laying of waterproofing material between the thermal insulation and the walls.

If possible, it is better not to do the external cladding of a timber house - such finishing will hide all the aesthetic beauty of the building material.

Pre-calculate the required amount of materials to avoid problems with selling excess timber or purchasing additional missing elements in the future.

First step. Determine the height of the house and calculate the perimeter of the walls of the building. Choose the height of the ceilings taking into account the thickness of the ceilings and floors. Calculate the area of ​​internal and external walls taking into account the thickness of the beam section.

Second step. Calculate the total number of beams. To do this, you need to divide the height of the house wall by the height of one element. This way you will know how many beams will be needed to build each wall. Calculate the length based on the length of the walls. Sum up the number of beams needed to build all the walls of the house.

Third step. Add to the calculated value a 5-15% margin for defects or unexpected damage during the construction process.

Initially, the walls of your house will have a height slightly higher than the design value. This increase will occur due to the use of an insulating gasket between the crowns. Over time, the wood will shrink, and the height of the walls will be restored to the design height.

Guide to building a house

Purchase the required quantity finished timber and start construction. Start by preparing the site and laying out the foundation.

Foundation

First step. Remove from construction site garbage and all obstructive objects. Mark the area using pegs driven into the ground and a rope stretched between them.

Second step. Dig a trench for the foundation. Log houses are traditionally built on strip foundations depth up to 80-100 cm. Select the specific depth taking into account the conditions of your particular situation.

Third step. Fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand and gravel. Compact the backfill thoroughly. For better compaction, spill the backfill with water.

Fourth step. Attach the formwork to the walls of the trench.

Fifth step. Place reinforcing mesh on top of the backfill.

Sixth step. Fill the trench with concrete. Leave the foundation until it has fully gained strength (3-5 weeks).

IN warm weather the foundation will need to be watered for the first few days after pouring to prevent it from cracking. It is better to leave the formwork until the foundation has completely hardened. If necessary, it can be dismantled earlier, but not less than 10 days after the last moistening of the base.

First crown

First step. Coat the frozen foundation with molten bitumen and lay a layer of roofing felt on it for waterproofing.

Second step. Proceed with laying the first crown. Pre-soak everything wooden elements antiseptic. Traditionally, the first row of timber is laid using the “half-tree” method. To make such a connection, you need to saw off the lower part of one beam, and the upper part of the other.

Third step. Lay out the bottom crown. Adjust the bars as carefully as possible.

At the same stage, prepare wooden dowels. Using these elements you will connect the rows of timber. It is advisable to make dowels from the same type of wood that was used for the manufacture of the main building elements. Make holes for the dowels in advance. Optimal step between fasteners – 1.2-1.5 m.

Form the first row of walls and proceed to further work.

Walls

Continue laying the walls in even horizontal rows. Carry out the insertion directly into the lower crown using the “ dovetail" Place floor beams in increments of no more than 40 cm, otherwise the floor will sag.

The walls are laid out according to an extremely simple principle: you lay the beams, connect them together in the corners using the “root tenon” method, connect the top row to the underlying row using dowels. Drive the dowels about a third of the depth of the beam of the bottom row, i.e. With the help of one dowel you can connect 2-3 rows at once. Be sure to lay insulation between the rows. You can use jute or moss.

Check each row with a building level. Use a sledgehammer to level the rows.

Lay out the walls of the house at the required height using the same pattern. All rows laid above the lower crown are arranged according to the same principle.

There is no need to secure the top two crowns. You will remove them before you begin installing the roof and installing the ceiling beams.

Start arranging the roof. If you are planning to make a residential attic space, use timber measuring 15x20 cm for the ceiling beams. Fix the beams themselves in increments of about 1-1.1 m.

Start building the frame roofing structure. The frame includes the following elements:

Install the Mauerlat, rafters and other listed elements. Attach sheathing boards to the rafters. For lathing, use boards about 150 mm wide and 15-20 mm thick. Continuous sheathing is characterized by the greatest reliability. For the rest, focus on the specifics of your situation, taking into account the angle of inclination of the slope, the type and weight of the finishing coating, etc.

At the end, all that remains is to lay the finishing roof covering with preliminary installation of steam, heat and moisture insulation layers.

After this, you can, if necessary, insulate the house and perform finishing touches. Finishing work. Laying communications, installing doors and window structures, lighting, furniture and other aspects - all this is at your discretion.

In the case of timber chamber drying, finishing can begin almost immediately after completion construction work. When using another material, you will have to wait until the wood shrinks. This requires at least 6 months.

A log house built in accordance with all building codes and recommendations will serve you well for many decades. Follow the instructions and very soon you will be able to enjoy comfortable accommodation in a reliable home built with your own hands.

Good luck!

Video - DIY timber house

We can say with confidence that every resident of a noisy city wants to have a secluded and quiet place where they can escape from worries, problems and stress. There you can relax and gain strength. Such a place is a dacha. Some people use it as a place to relax, but for others it is an area with a lot of possibilities: a garden, vegetable garden or raising animals. Be that as it may, you need a house in your dacha. And if you have purchased a plot, the main and primary question for you is how to build country house. You can hire specialists, or you can do everything yourself. Most often, country houses are built from timber. Such buildings are economical and environmentally friendly.

In this article you will learn how to build a country house from timber. We will look at the detailed instructions, compare some types of timber and learn the intricacies of working with it.

Choosing timber for a country house

If you had decided to start building a wooden house 50–100 years ago, you wouldn’t have to bother, since the houses were built from logs. Today, thanks technical progress, many different options for construction technologies have appeared, which have their own characteristics and characteristics. For example, if you need a country house made of economy-class timber, then ordinary timber is used. It is characterized by the fact that it has low price and everyone can afford it. But the material is practically not processed in any way. Its humidity is high, its strength leaves much to be desired, as does durability and precision of shape.

It is much more profitable to use rounded timber that has undergone some processing. It is cut to size, has a lock joint and is sanded. Appearance the timber is very worthy. However, humidity ranges from 15 to 25%, which causes greater shrinkage.

If you want to build a high-quality, durable, strong, beautiful and warm house, then it is better to resort to using profile beam. Thanks to manufacturing technology, it is several times better than regular and rounded timber. Each element has an ideal shape and a locking connection, which allows you to build ideal ones without gaps. A modernized version of profile timber is laminated veneer lumber. It is 70% stronger than conventional timber, has excellent heat retention and durability. However, the construction of country houses from laminated veneer lumber entails large waste. Due to the processing, the material has a high price, so not everyone can afford it for their dacha.

Your primary task is to decide from what material to build a log country house. There are many factors to consider here, including price and personal preference. After this, you can begin to consider the technology of building a log house for a summer residence.

Preparatory work

Immediately before building a country house, you need to find out some nuances, without which normal construction is simply impossible. Once you have chosen the appropriate type of timber, here are some things to think about:

Perhaps it is the last point that is the most important. He needs to pay more attention, since the quality of your future country house depends on the project, its design features, type of foundation, etc.

Development of a country house project

High quality, well composed and detailed project– it’s like a map showing a route. It is impossible to build a country house without it. Immediately before construction, you will need to collect some documents permitting construction. So, without a project it will be impossible to obtain permission.

What goes into a good project? Clearly indicated parameters of the building, its design and sketch. These are the dimensions of the country house (length, width, height), number of floors, roof structure. When you have distributed the main walls on paper, you need to choose the number of partitions and their location. They divide the building into rooms. If this is a dacha, then a kitchen, living room and bedroom will be enough for you.

Besides, the right plan includes the type of foundation and its structure on paper. Also included in the project are all the building materials that will be used. And in the case when you want to build a country house from glued, rounded or profiled timber, make a sectional plan. Thanks to it, the company from which you will order the material will be able not only to sell you finished products, but also to process them correctly. All you have to do is put all the details together to get a finished country house, as in the project.

Now you can start construction.

We build a country house from timber

The first step to take is to build a foundation. Since under construction timber houses Usually they are light in weight, then the foundation can be made simple. As an option - a columnar base. It is quick to build, affordable, and all the work can be done with your own hands. The instructions for creating are as follows:

That's it, the foundation is ready. Now all that remains is to tie it up using timber. A hole is made in it for a metal rod. Correct connection you can see in this photo.

We build the walls of a country house from timber

When the foundation and piping are ready, you can begin building up the walls from timber. If you are working with profiled timber, the process will resemble assembling a construction set. All you need to do is select the right parts and install the bars in their places. How exactly you can build a country house from glued or profiled timber, you can see from this video.

Concerning ordinary timber, then the process is a little more complicated and scrupulous. The first step is to lay the first row of beams on the finished base. Then a second row of beams is made, which is fixed along the entire length with dowels. They are slaughtered at a distance of 1 m from each other. Walls made of timber are built up in this way to certain size, according to plan. Regarding window and doorways, then they should be left empty until the country house completely shrinks. This way you can avoid deformation of the timber, skewing and unevenness.

You can learn more about the technology of constructing a country house from ordinary timber from this video:

Creating a roof for a country house from timber

When the timber walls are ready, you can begin to build the roof. The work is quite difficult, as it is performed at height. The first step is to install horizontal varnishes, which will serve as the ceiling. In the center, vertical supports are fixed to them, the height of which is pre-marked in the project.

After this, the rafters are installed, fastening them in different ways. The most common is through metal corners and screws. The rafters are installed in increments of about 60 cm. They are attached to each other with horizontal boards and jibs. All that remains is to make the sheathing and cover the roof with the roofing material of your choice, which should also be in the project.

Conclusion

That's all, your country house is ready. All that remains is to complete its insulation and finishing. True, if you built a house from ordinary timber, then you need to wait six months or a year for the building to shrink. If it is laminated timber, then further work can be carried out immediately. Your log cottage is ready and waiting for its owners.