How to make a Russian stove yourself. Russian brick stoves: materials, masonry

• rows 17th, 18th. A knitting metal wire is laid between them. On these rows the vault narrows;
• rows from 19 to 21. Work on the bed is being completed;
• row 22. At this level the rise of the high begins. At this stage, the stove masonry is very complex and responsible;
• rows from 23 to 31. A pipe channel is formed. Blowers and valves are placed in the right places.

To summarize, we note the availability of masonry stoves with a stove bench and a cooking panel. It is possible to carry out your plans with your own hands, although it will require a high concentration of attention, thoroughness and repeated clarifications in the calculations. Be sure to enlist the support of an experienced specialist - if not with practical actions, then at least useful tips with his hand.

Ecology of life: Home. The effectiveness of the Russian stove - a structure with a stove bench and a cooking stove - is beyond doubt. Modern interpretations are somewhat different from the ancient ones, but in general they repeat all the architectural and functional aspects.

Russian stove

Russian stoves came to the current user from time immemorial. Modern interpretations are somewhat different from the ancient ones, but in general they repeat all the architectural and functional aspects. The effectiveness of a structure with a bench and a cooking stove is beyond doubt. The only question is whether to make such a stove with your own hands or order the project drawings (as well as masonry and test run) to specialists.

Definition of Russian stove

Before delving into the topic, you should understand the definition. There is still such a term in use as ordering - this is:

• and the masonry itself (the brick is laid out layer by layer horizontally, with a detailed list of the locations of the equipment elements);
• and the type of stove structure (stove-stove, in which each layer is associated with the placement of an element).

In general terms, Russian means a stove endowed with the following features:

• massiveness and scope(as a rule, the structure occupies at least ¼ of the hut, and sometimes half);
• presence of beds(they are also called a couch - a place where people lay down while sleeping or when feeling unwell, to warm up);
• combination of a heating base with a stove for cooking;
• Wood is mainly used for heating.

In ancient models, it was customary to use the firebox itself for cooking food, surrounded by hot wood firebrands (fireproof food containers with porridge or stew were placed with a “horned” grip inside the firebox, where they simmered for several hours).

Today, there are modifications in which it is possible to use coke coal in the firebox. It provides more heat than regular wood, but coal dust is a big problem. At the same time, a horizontal stove is used for cooking, and the “simmering” effect has to be abandoned.

Such heating structures are relevant for Russia, the eastern regions of Ukraine, as well as the northern regions of Belarus. If you are interested in the layout or masonry, there is practically no information in Western European sources.

The dimensions of some models reach 1.5-2 m in length and/or width. The height (we do not take into account the chimney pipe) is more than 1.2-1.5 meters. It’s probably hard to believe, but the most gigantic ovens reached such sizes that it was quite possible for a person to wash inside them. In modern conditions, such projects, of course, are not in demand.

Construction of a Russian stove

The main elements without which the construction of a Russian stove is unthinkable:

• foundation (guardianship);
• cooking chamber, also known as a firebox, also called a crucible or firebox. Located under the bed. The air for burning wood enters through the throat, and after heating it is directed to the overpipe, after which it is sent into the chimney to be removed to the street;
• cheeks - the front wall of the firebox;
• mouth - the gap between the cheeks of the firebox for connecting the firebox with the chimney and the heated room; Also an important role of the mouth is the placement of dishes and firewood into the firebox (crucible).
• vault - the topmost layer of the firebox. During operation it is subjected to intense heating, therefore it is prone to the formation of cracks from heating. Here it is necessary to involve the most heat-resistant and heat-intensive materials;
• under the bottom of the cooking chamber (furnace). It has a slight slope towards the entrance to the firebox to make it easier for the user to push in and out heavy dishes with food. Installed directly on the vault underlay. Provides the strength of bricks hewn into a cone along a cylindrical surface;

• podpechek (podpechek) inside the podechka under the hearth. The element is designed for storing and drying firewood;
• hob. An independent surface, the basis of which is most often a cast iron, and sometimes a steel part. Located on the stove;
• pole - a platform in front of the entrance to the crucible. This is where the stove is placed, if it is provided in the model;
• “trough” or semi-circulating vault - covers the underpatch. Material that is capable of retaining heat is scattered on the trough (brick chips, sand, pebbles);
• palati (in some regions they say “polati”) or roof. This element is also called a bed - a place where people go to sleep. In classic models it is located strictly behind the chimney, in some more modern models it is moved to any side. It is at this level that the ordering is completed with the topmost layer of brick;
• hailo - a smoke exhaust hole above the pole in front of the mouth. It is a bell that widens downward. When the stove is operating, smoke from burning wood escapes there.

More complex projects may include a number of other elements - to improve heat transfer, to retain heat, to accommodate cooling ready-made food and cold, clean dishes. The higher the user’s requirements, the more complex the furnace design, its design and bricklaying.

A significant element of the stove design is the chimney. Instructions for caring for it, including cleaning, can be found here: http://gidpopechkam.ru/materialy-dlya-pechi/kak-pochistit-dymoxod.html

DIY Russian stove

We must pay tribute to the courage of some enterprising people, but making arrangements for the bed and cooking surface with your own hands is quite a bold decision. The fact is that no matter how intelligible the design diagram may look on paper, it is quite difficult to translate it into reality. Still, there are recommendations for determined people.

Tools for work

What tools will you need:

• container for mixing the solution;
• measuring strip to determine the width of the masonry joints;
• construction level is a must! Without it, it is guaranteed that the structure will have a tilt, and it will be impossible to eliminate it after finishing the masonry;
• rule (with its help the surface of the foundation is leveled - a one-time operation);
• a plumb line (also an extremely important device, used to clarify the vertical curvature in any desired place);
• ordering - a special device for multi-level stove masonry;
• Master OK;
• a pick-nose hammer is a hand tool that allows you to chop solid brick into pieces instead of cutting with a grinder.

Materials and equipment elements

When creating a Russian stove with a stove bench and stove, you will need additional elements, thanks to which you will achieve the desired functionality:

• hardened brick (recommended M-200) in the amount of 1850-1900 pcs.
• fatty pure clay 245-250 kg;
• purified sand 295-310 kg;

The number of bricks, sand and clay are given in quantities calculated for a model 2.3 long, 2.0 m high, 1.6 m wide.

• grate;
• combustion, cleaning and blower doors;
• firebox damper;
• smoke valve;
• hob;
• steel sheet, steel angle, water heating tank - according to the situation and depending on the project.

The number of doors and grates is determined based on the nuances of the project.

Layer order

In competently compiled working drawings, the Russian arrangement with a stove bench and stove is represented by each level separately. Otherwise, it will be impossible to fold the stove due to the complexity of its internal (not visible from the outside) structure.

Typical example:

Row 1. The layer is laid without screed directly on the floor waterproofing. Heated brick is suitable, since there will be no exposure to high temperatures;

row 2. Along the edges of the future hearth, bricks are placed on edge, and if non-solid bricks are used, in the next row they must be covered with solid ones;

row 3. Similar to the previous one. It is also recommended to install a blower door here;

row 4. Placed in the same way as the 2nd;

In this row, be sure to leave room for a cleaning channel.

row 5. Channel cleaning continues. Make a base for future arched vaults;

Row 6. The cleaning channel begins to narrow. The grate is installed;

Grate bars are cast iron or steel grates through which air flows with improved draft. They allow oxygen to pass through and retain the ash residue from burning fuel.

rows 7th, 8th. A steel sheet is placed here. It is also necessary to secure the wire to secure the fire door. The hearth laying is complete;

Row 9. Sand bedding is made. Bricks along the entire row of the future hearth are installed on the edge.

rows 10, 11. Same as the previous one. A hob is installed on top. It is best to lay halved bricks on the edge of the hearth;

rows 12th, 14th, 16th. Just like the previous ones.

rows 17th, 18th. A knitting metal wire is laid between them. On these rows the vault narrows;

rows from 19 to 21. Work on the bed is being completed;

row 22. At this level the rise of the high begins. At this stage, the stove masonry is very complex and responsible;

rows from 23 to 31. A pipe channel is formed. Blowers and valves are placed in the right places.

To summarize, we note the availability of masonry stoves with a stove bench and a cooking panel. It is possible to carry out your plans with your own hands, although it will require a high concentration of attention, thoroughness and repeated clarifications in the calculations. Be sure to enlist the support of an experienced specialist - if not with practical actions, then at least with useful advice from him.

To carry out construction work of any brick oven, it is recommended to carefully study the instructions and thoroughly understand the diagrams, and even better, to undergo an internship with an experienced stove maker.

A Russian stove can be built with your own hands under the guidance of a qualified craftsman who will not allow you to make mistakes when laying and reading the order. You need to know that even the only one an incorrectly placed brick can ruin all the work done. There are known cases when, due to such an oversight, it was necessary to redo the masonry, since either a very strong unnecessary draft was created, leading to excessive consumption of firewood, or it was completely absent.

If, despite all the difficulties and warnings, after all decided to try on the role of a stove maker without making “fatal” mistakes, it is necessary to strictly follow the work rules and take the most serious approach to the choice of quality material.

To avoid claims from the fire inspectorate, you need to know that all thoroughly constructed heating devices must be fully consistent set parameters(SNiP 41—01-2003).

A Russian stove may have different models, but it is always a heating and cooking stove, and in addition to this, it must have an oven and at least a small stove bench.

For that, to To start working on the construction of such a structure, you must become familiar with the structure of the furnace in order to know the name of each of its sections.

The basic diagram of a traditional Russian stove assumes the presence of the following departments:

1 – The oven is set up for drying firewood in reserve. This section is not available in all oven models, as it is not functional enough.

2 – A cold stove is also not always suitable, but it is typical for a Russian stove. This section is used to store dishes.

3 – The pole is a niche in front of the crucible. This is where the hob is often installed if the oven has a slightly different structure. If there is no stove, food cooked in the crucible is left in the hearth so that it remains hot longer.

4 – Under — This is the bottom of the crucible or cooking chamber. This oven element is arranged with a slight slope towards the entrance to the chamber to facilitate the movement of dishes installed in it. In addition, it is recommended to sand the surface of this element well.

5 – A cooking chamber or crucible; in traditional ovens, firewood is placed in it and heat-resistant dishes are placed in which food is cooked. The vault of the chamber, like the one underneath, is made with a slight slope towards the entrance. This configuration contributes to the accumulation of hot air under the ceiling, and it warms up the stove bench and the side walls of the stove well.

6 – The overflow is a niche over the pole, over her the chimney begins.

7 – The choke or samovar was built earlier and was intended for the pipe from the samovar, which was installed in this hole. The samovar goes into the chimney. Today, this section in the furnace is most often not installed, since there is no need for it.

8 – Thermal channel above the pole.

9 – A view is a window with a door that completely blocks the chimney. Through this hole one gets to the damper, which regulates the draft by moving horizontally. The damper is a metal plate with well-finished edges. Today, this element is often replaced with a special valve.

10 – Location flaps.

11 – The bench is located above the furnace, behind the chimney. During combustion, this section of the stove always warms up well. Previously, the couch was used in the winter as a bed, so it was quite comfortable large sizes, so that there is enough space for several people.

In the modernized version of the Russian stove, the order of which will be presented below, some elements of the traditional structure are replaced. At the same time, new model has become more functional, as it now has a hob and a water heating tank.

The modern version also differs from the traditional one in that it provides heating of the combustion chamber - thanks to this, the stove reaches desired temperature, and from it enters the premises large quantity heat.

The presence of different sections in the design allows only the hob to be heated for cooking in the summer, without heating everything the entire structure, which helps maintain the desired microclimate in the house and save fuel. In winter, when all channels are heated, the stove becomes multifunctional - it can simultaneously be an oven, a stove, heat water and the room, and also be a warm bed.

Such changes became possible when an additional “summer” damper for the cooking chamber was installed into the design.

The modern version of the furnace is capable of supporting comfortable temperature on an area of ​​35 ÷ 40 m².

When starting to work on a Russian stove, it is necessary to carry out preparatory measures, which begin with planning the installation site.

Choosing a location for a Russian stove

Very important point is the correct choice of the place where the structure will be built. If the oven is installed in wooden building, then the distance between its walls and the walls of the house must be carefully thought out, which must be at least 200 mm. In addition, wooden walls must be protected by attaching non-combustible material to them - most often asbestos boards are used for this. This gap will also ensure free inspection of the furnace walls, which must be carried out before the start of each heating season.

If a place is chosen for construction between two rooms, then the opening in wooden wall needs to be taxed brickwork, also at least 200 mm thick. Additionally, between the masonry and the wood, you can install a gasket from the same asbestos sheet.

Masonry tools

Whatever stove model is chosen, the same tools will be needed to lay it, which must be prepared in advance.

1 – A trowel or trowel is necessary for taking masonry mortar from the container and applying it to the bricks, as well as for cleaning the masonry from excess mixture that has protruded between the seams.

2 – A hammer-pick will be needed for trimming and splitting bricks, since during the work you will have to adjust individual masonry elements or give them a certain shape.

3 – Jointing will be needed if the stove will not be finished decorative tiles, and the masonry should have a perfectly neat appearance. This tool is used to create horizontal and vertical seams.

4 – The mooring cord is used to control the evenness of the rows, but more often in our time, when laying the walls of furnaces, craftsmen are limited to the building level and plumb line.

5 – The order is very useful device, which will help maintain the verticality of the masonry, as well as maintain the same thickness of horizontal joints.

6 – The plumb line also measures the verticality of the wall, and its convenience lies in the fact that it is easily and quickly installed in the right place.

7 – The building level is indispensable when working on any masonry, so it should always be at hand, as it checks the evenness of each laid row, when it is still possible to quickly make any changes.

8 – The rule is most often used only once, when leveling the foundation surface.

9 – Spatula and container for mixing the solution.

10 – It’s also a good idea to have a measuring stick that will be used to measure the width of the seams.

Necessary materials

For each furnace model, its own amount of materials is purchased, depending on its size. In addition to the masonry of the walls and all its internal sections (in accordance with the order) Construction Materials will also be required for the construction of the foundation, which must be made very reliably, since the Russian stove is a fairly massive structure.

You shouldn’t save money by buying cheap, low-quality building materials if you want the building to be respectable appearance, and worked effectively for its intended purpose.

Below is a table of the necessary materials for the construction of a Russian stove measuring 1600 mm wide, 2380 mm long and 1900 ÷ 2000 mm high, which is often called the “Teplushka”.

In addition to materials for laying the furnace, it is necessary to purchase everything necessary for constructing the foundation - crushed stone, formwork boards, sand, reinforcement with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm and cement, the amount of these materials will depend on the depth and width of the base.

Foundation for a Russian stove

The Russian stove is a very massive structure, so you can’t do without a reliable foundation for it

Since a brick Russian stove is a fairly massive structure, the base for it must be strong and reliable. Therefore it is necessary good foundation, for which you will have to dig a corresponding pit.

• The size of the pit should exceed the perimeter of the stove base by 120 ÷ 150 mm in each direction. The depth of the pit is calculated depending on the density and stability of the soil, but its average value varies between 500 and 700 mm.
• The bottom of the finished pit is covered with sand, which is watered and thoroughly compacted until the thickness of this waterproofing layer reaches 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• Crushed stone or broken brick is poured onto the sand, which is also compacted. This layer should be 100 ÷150 mm, and then it should be leveled with a small layer of sand, which also spilled with water and leveled.
• Next, two layers of roofing material are laid on this “pie”. Then, formwork made from boards is installed on the roofing felt, and in order concrete mortar monolithically filled the box and did not leak into the gaps between the boards; the walls of the formwork are covered with thick polyethylene film.
• The solution is made from cement (one part), sand (three parts), crushed stone (five parts) and water, with the help of which the mixture is brought to the required semi-liquid consistency.
• Rough material is poured into the prepared formwork concrete solution, which made from gravel and cement. The thickness of the initially poured layer should be 200 ÷ 220 mm. To prevent air bubbles from forming in the poured concrete, it is pierced several times with a bayonet shovel, while simultaneously compacting the solution.
• When the solution begins to set, reinforcement bars are installed vertically into it, 50 ÷ 70 mm long above the poured surface.
• Next, the next layer of mortar with a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm is poured. After it has set, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the surface, and the formwork is filled to the top with mortar, and then the filled surface is leveled according to the rule, but to the established horizon (usually this is the top edge formwork).
• After the concrete has completely hardened and gained the necessary strength, the surface is covered with another layer of roofing felt.

Mortar for laying the stove

The mortar for laying the stove must be elastic and thin, and when dry, it must not crack and seal the seams well. Preparing the right solution is not easy, so every stove master has his own secrets in selecting materials and mixing the mixture.

Today, in specialized stores you can purchase ready-made heat-resistant mixtures intended for laying the walls of furnaces. However, according to experienced stove makers, a real traditional clay mortar with the addition of sand is much preferable to ready-made cement-based mixtures. This is true for various reasons, one of which is the environmental friendliness of the solution.

Main difficulty self-made clay solution consists in selecting clay, since this material can be excessively oily or, conversely, lean. For the mortar that will be used to build the stove, you need to choose fatty clay - it is this clay that will make the mixture elastic, which is very important for obtaining high-quality, even and durable seams.

Finding the right proportions for a high-quality solution is quite difficult, and this process will take some time.

• To do this, the purchased clay must be Firstly, thoroughly cleaned of various debris and foreign inclusions, and then soaked for a day in water.
• Next, small portions of it are mixed in different proportions with sand. From this mass, cakes one centimeter thick are made, after which they are left to dry for two to three days, after recording how many parts of clay and sand are in each of the test mixtures.
• After the specified time, you need to check which of the experimental cakes has fewer cracks - this means that the entire solution needs to be mixed in exactly these proportions.

Before mixing the entire mass, it is recommended to rub the soaked clay through a mesh with cells measuring 5 mm. This process makes the mass as homogeneous as possible and eliminates problems during laying.

To lay out the firebox, fireclay powder is often added to the finished clay solution instead of sand in a ratio of one to three to four, that is, one part of powder to 3-4 parts of clay solution.

Masonry of a Russian stove

In order for the stove to be safe for the residents of the house, the masonry must be absolutely airtight, so you cannot use low-quality bricks that have cracks. The thickness of the seams between rows should vary between 5 ÷ 8 mm. It is not recommended to coat the inside of the furnace walls with clay in order to achieve the desired tightness, since the solution will promote the formation of soot deposits and reduce thermal conductivity.

The masonry is carried out in different sections of the furnace in one brick(length bricks), half a brick (width bricks) and a quarter bricks(thickness bricks).

The corners of the furnace are bandaged different ways, depending on the thickness of the masonry, but basic principle is the interweaving of spoon and poke brick.

Before laying, it is recommended to soak the ceramic brick, since in this case it will not absorb water from the mortar, and therefore the brick and mortar will dry evenly, showing high mutual adhesion and giving good tightness of the walls.

Excess mortar protruding from the seams must be removed immediately, both from the outside and from the inside of the masonry - this will ensure the neatness and maximum functionality of the structure.

External walls can be laid out in one or half a brick, but internal walls are usually only half a brick. If the outer walls are thick, the oven will take longer to warm up and will require a large number of fuel, so half a brick is the most optimal option for laying both internal and external walls of a heating structure.

Ordinary masonry of the stove

The order can be called the basic instructions for laying a stove, which shows in detail how each brick should lie in this series, and which of additional elements used at a specific stage. By following these instructions exactly, you can slowly “raise” the stove structure yourself. The only thing that is recommended to learn is how to correctly lay and align rows of bricks. Such training is best done first on dry bricks, and then with mortar.

Experienced stove makers advise laying out each of the rows dry - this will allow you to adjust the sizes of all the bricks to those required in this particular row, and not make mistakes in the intricacies of the internal masonry.

• The first row sets the right direction, ensures the evenness and neatness of the entire building, therefore, before starting its laying, even dry, it is recommended to draw out the exact location external walls ovens. This can be done using a long ruler, a corner and chalk.

The first row is solid. It must be perfect, as it will determine the evenness of the entire structure

The bricks of the outer wall are first laid on the marked surface, and then the internal space between them is filled, following the pattern indicated in the order.

• From the second row, the walls of the oven begin to be laid out, internal channels for cleaning, as well as an ash pan chamber.

Third row - installation of cast iron doors

• On the third row, two two chambers are installed - a blower chamber and a cleaning chamber. The doors are secured using steel wire, which is screwed to the lugs located on the cast iron doors, and its ends are placed in the seams between the bricks. Before the doors are completely embedded in the wall, they are temporarily supported on both sides with bricks.

4th row - the arch of the bottom space is closed

• On the fourth row, the masonry covers the top entrances to all internal channels on the walls of the furnace, forming holes, and completely forms the ceiling of the hearth channel inside the building.

Fifth row - a large grate and a small firebox door are installed

• On the fifth row, a grate for a large firebox is laid, and the internal masonry of the firebox is installed without mortar. Very often, fireclay bricks, cut in half thickness, are used for this purpose. On the same row, a small firebox door is installed above the hearth channel.

• The masonry of the sixth row includes the installation of a water heating tank. The inner layer of the firebox continues to be laid with fireclay bricks.

Seventh row: tie the side wall with a strip, install the grate in the small firebox, and the doors in the large firebox

• On the seventh row, a grate is installed in the small firebox and a door on the large firebox. The right wall is tightened with a steel strip, which is placed in the seam and secured to the walls with specially arranged hooks at the ends. The back wall of a large firebox is laid out with bricks without mortar. On the outer wall, on internal masonry Gaps are arranged between the bricks for better heat transfer.

• On the eighth and ninth rows, the small firebox door is installed and secured, and the removal of the internal furnace channels continues.

The tenth row is laying the bottom of the crucible. The water heating tank is completely closed

• On the tenth row, the bottom of the cooking chamber (furnace) is laid out and the arches of two fireboxes are combined - small and large. The duct openings in the rear of the building, which are designed to move heated air, are left open and discharged into the cooking chamber. Also on this row the water heating tank is closed.

11th row - everything is ready to install the hob

• On the eleventh row, on the edge of the masonry, above the two fireboxes, a prepared metal corner of 50x50 mm is fixed - it will become a good basis for installing a hob in that place. Remaining open space The large firebox behind the stove is covered with a grate, which is not fixed.

• On the twelfth row, the front wall of the cooking chamber and the side walls begin to be decorated hob. A valve is installed horizontally on the left side of the stove, which will serve as a damper for the cooking chamber. To the left of the valve, the formation of the bottom of the chimney begins. The damper will block the hole between the furnace and the chimney.

13th row - continuation of the masonry upwards

• On the thirteenth row, work follows the same configuration of the pattern as given in row 12.

• On the fourteenth row, an entrance to the chimney pipe is formed, which will open when the vertical valve installed for the cooking chamber is moved. In addition, the walls of the furnace are removed, and a hole is made for the damper

• On the fifteenth row, the masonry begins to narrow, blocking the cooking chamber. At the same time, the chimney pipe is removed.

• The fastening of the side walls with metal strips with stoppers located on the outer sides of the walls occurs on the sixteenth row, after the masonry is laid, repeating the 15th row.

17th row: after laying - several operations with metal structures

• On the seventeenth row, several significant actions are performed:

— a screed with a metal strip is installed on the back wall of the furnace;

- the narrowing of the arch of the cooking chamber continues and a place is arranged to begin laying the arch;

- further laying of the chimney takes place;

- above the niche where the hob is installed, a metal corner and strip are laid - they will become the basis for laying bricks, which will begin to create a ceiling above the stove.

Row 18 - outer walls and plus laying out the domed arch of the furnace

• On the eighteenth row, a template is installed on the back of the furnace, above the furnace (or a structure of metal strips in the shape of an arch is welded). The dome-shaped arch of the cooking chamber is laid out according to the template. In this case, the bricks are installed on the end part - spoons.

A row of bricks is laid on the installed metal corner and strip, placing them on the wide part of the brick - the bed.

If a template made of plywood and a block is chosen for the arch, it must be made collapsible so that it can be easily removed after the mortar that holds the bricks that form the arch has hardened. Two semicircular parts are cut out of plywood, which are secured with removable pins to two rectangular frames or bars and placed on the underlying bricks.

The design roughly looks like this.

On top of the semicircles are covered with a flooring of narrow boards, which are assembled together using ropes, i.e. the flooring will be flexible. After the mortar hardens in the masonry, the supporting bricks are removed, the structure is lowered to the bottom of the cooking chamber, then the flexible flooring is removed, the pins are pulled out, and then all the elements are removed from the crucible.

• Next, on 21- ohm in a row, the surface covered with sand, together with the walls, is covered with masonry, and in the front part there is a narrowing of the overtube.

22nd row - installation of a metal panel with a round hole

• At 22- ohm In a row, the overpipe is narrowed and a metal element with a round corner hole is installed, which will help redirect the smoke, somehow retaining heat.

23rd row - installation of the cleaning window door for the chimney

• On the 23rd row, the overpipe continues to be removed, and a door is installed to make it possible to clean the chimney.

• On 24- ohm In a row, a valve is installed on the over-pipe, which will regulate the draft in the furnaces and crucible.

• When laying the 25th and 26th rows, the space above the valve is even more covered with masonry.

• At 27- om - 29th in rows the overpipe is combined with the chimney.
• Next comes the laying of the chimney pipe and rises to the level where the groove begins to form. Recommended when passing through a chimney attic floor do masonry with cement mortar.

Passing a brick pipe through the ceiling - cutting (fluffing)

• After this, having passed the pipe through the attic, it is taken out to the roof, laying out the otter and making reliable waterproofing around it, which will close the gaps between the chimney and the roofing material.

Video: Ordinal masonry of two variations of the Russian stove

Drying the lined stove

After completing the masonry process, the stove cannot be heated at full capacity immediately, since in this case it will dry unevenly and unsightly stains will appear on the surface of the walls. In addition, the mortar at the seams may crack, and the walls will depressurize.

To prevent this from happening, the oven must go through a process natural drying within 10 ÷ 12 days. In this case, all latches and doors must be opened. In order to create favorable conditions to dry the furnace structure, in this case you can place a regular light bulb at 200 ÷ 250 W, for the entire drying time.

After completing the first stage of drying, you can move on to forced measures - start heating the stove with a small amount of firewood, with the smoke valves open, but with the fireboxes closed.

The stove is heated for 7 ÷ 10 days according to a special system: in the first two days only 3 ÷ 4.5 kg of firewood is used for heating, every day adding 1 ÷ 1.5 kg of fuel to the initial amount, and so on throughout the entire forced period. drying.

You can check the readiness of the furnace for full operation as follows. If, after starting the next fire, no drops of condensate appear on the metal elements within 1.5 ÷ 2 hours, then you can safely carry out a full-fledged control fire using a lot of firewood.

If, after a long drying period and carrying out a control fire, minor cracks still appear in the seams between the rows of masonry, do not rush to repair them. They need to be monitored during the heating season. During this time, they will either stop in one position or expand a little more. Only after the end of the heating season can repairs be carried out, repairing any defects that have appeared.

Safety precautions when starting to use the stove

Having a Russian stove in your home is simply wonderful, as it has always been considered a source of warmth and special comfort. However, you need to remember about safety measures, since if they are not followed, the oven can become a source of increased danger.

Before the start of each heating season, it is necessary to carry out a thorough inspection of all masonry joints - they must be airtight and not have deep cracks. Seal the cracks that appear with a solution of clay with the addition of sand.

If, after starting the fire, smoke appears in the room, it means that there is no normal draft, and such a faulty stove should not be heated under any circumstances. You need to immediately check whether all the valves on the chimney are open. If the chimney is completely open, but smoke continues to flow into the room, it means that the chimney ducts need to be cleaned.

The chimney must be checked and cleaned at least once a year. However, if the stove is new and high-quality fuel is used, then the chimney, in fact, should not be bothered for several years. If smoke occurs in this case, there is a risk that the masonry was done incorrectly somewhere, and you will have to invite a specialist to fix the problems.

If you follow safety rules and have good ventilation system in the house, the stove will not be a source of danger, but will become faithful assistant, which will help out in many cases. In addition to the fact that this structure has a very wide functionality, a Russian stove will also create a unique, original flavor and special comfort in the house.

And at the end of the article - another video showing in detail the work of a specialist in the professional laying of a traditional Russian stove.

Video: The work of a master building a Russian stove

Since ancient times, Russia has been famous for its craftsmen who achieved excellence in many areas. Furnace business was no exception. Based on historical documents, we can conclude that for many centuries Russia firmly retained its leadership in the furnace business. A chimney-type stove, that is, with a missing chimney, for a long time served as an ideal example of a Russian stove. In 1718, however, Peter I issued a decree according to which the use of chicken stoves was strictly prohibited. It was this decree that prompted many domestic stove makers and architects to create a completely new design.

To successfully lay a traditional Russian stove, you should learn some of the subtleties of its functioning and design. Depending on the region, the stove could have a unique shape. Sometimes you could see extremely interesting specimens. On average, the dimensions of a Russian stove looked like this:

• 2 arshins wide;
• 3 arshins in length;
• 2.5 arshins in height (an arshin is about 71 centimeters).

A stove with such dimensions could easily heat a room whose area was about 3 dozen square meters. In most cases, the stove was located in a corner, not far from front door. Before laying the master always did solid foundation using broken bricks or stones. Any stove had a special design element - a stove, where it was stored necessary tool. To conserve heat, special material was placed between the arches and the wall of the stove.

During the construction process, the master used bricks, as well as special mortar. Classic technology involves the use of red clay bricks, which are characterized by maximum strength.

Construction Features

To make a classic Russian stove, you will have to take 1,650 bricks, a valve (the hole dimensions should be 26 by 24 centimeters), a view with a half-door, as well as enough clay and sand for 80 buckets of mortar.

According to the classical scheme, the roof of the furnace is necessarily located at a certain slope towards the mouth. We must not forget about the small protrusion-threshold, the main task of which is that it prevents sparks flying from the furnace from getting inside the pipe. In addition, it is the threshold that collects all the soot that comes out of the stove.

Directly during the construction process, the main assistants should be orders, that is, cuts running in a horizontal plane. Thanks to these cuts, you can get an absolute idea of ​​how to approach laying out a new row, when there is a need to use whole or broken bricks, where additional wood fixtures and metal appliances should be placed.

Orders and their scheme

The first row is laid out directly on the foundation, which is based on cement mortar and brick. Before laying the first row, you should lay down roofing material or roofing felt, which will serve as protection against moisture. Ideally, the construction of the first row should be made of superheated bricks, which are more resistant to water.

In order to achieve perfect dressing of seams in the next row, three ¾ bricks should be laid at the corners of the starting row. One of the 3/4 bricks, as well as the brick adjacent to it, should be beveled for the tightest possible fit.

The second row is the first row in the process of laying out the walls of the pit. To ensure that the seams do not match, 4 ¾ bricks are used on the front wall of the opening (in the 3rd row).

For the fourth row, exclusively solid brick is used. The pair of bricks that mark the entrance to the oven need to have their corners beveled so that they can be used as supports for the arch.

Wood formwork should be placed in the opening of the underfloor area. After work on the arch is completed, you can work on the fifth row. To avoid matching seams of adjacent rows, 3 ¾ bricks must be laid at the corners. The nuance of this row lies in the fact that 2 dozen bricks of the side walls need to be chipped at a certain angle so that they become supports for the vaults of the oven.

The sixth row assumes that the side walls of the oven are one brick thick, and the front and rear walls are 2 bricks thick. In the space between the internal walls there is a formwork with a semicircular upper part, which is in accordance with the configuration of the arch of the oven. The configuration of the formwork is immediately determined taking into account the ability to easily disassemble the structure and pull it out through the opening, allowing access to the oven.

Once the formwork is in place, you can work on the vault. Ideally, when laying the vault, wedge-shaped bricks should be used, which contribute not only to the ideal surface of the structure, but also to its maximum strength. You can make such a brick yourself if you carefully process the edges. If it is not possible to make such a brick, then it is quite possible to use an ordinary one.

In such a situation, it is necessary to ensure that the lower ribs of the bricks are in close contact, and the gaps between the upper ones are equal to each other and filled with cement. You can increase the strength of the vault if you place broken bricks in the gaps that exactly match them in size.

After the arch of the oven, you can work on rows 7 and 8. Laying 7 resembles the first row, while 8 can be made entirely from solid brick. In the 8th row, you must remember to lay out a platform for the cold stove. Row 9 is the first row connected to the walls of the stove. There must be dry sand between the walls, and the 11th row must 100 percent cover not only the stove, but also the backfill.

In the 13th row, the laying of the walls of the crucible and the hearth begins. Between these two elements there should be a metal strip, which in its configuration exactly matches the mouth of the stove. It is necessary to provide holes in the strip in advance through which steel wire is threaded, which is subsequently fixed in the masonry.

Subsequent rows, up to 17, are necessary to build up the walls of the two structures described below. In the 17th row, 8 bricks should be placed in the walls of the crucible, which were previously hewn and chipped. It is on these bricks that the roof of the crucible will rest. In fact, the laying of the crucible itself is completely identical to the process of laying the opechka vault.

When the work on the arch is completed, you can work on row 18. A pair of feet should be fixed on the sides of the pole window, which will become supports for the small size of the arch. When laying subsequent rows, you should remember that the space between the arch and the walls of the furnace must be filled with perfectly dry sand mixed with broken bricks, crushed stone and glass.

The 21st row should completely cover the filling and the furnace. Row 22 makes this “lid” even stronger. The 23rd row involves strengthening the shield walls, as well as the over-pipe, in which the choke intended for the samovar is fixed. When laying the next rows, the overpipe is blocked, but a couple of holes remain. The first is necessary for a samovar chimney, the second - for a view. When laying the next couple of rows, a half-door is fixed in the opening of the view.

In the 31st row, next to one of the walls, you need to place extra row in three bricks, so that the resulting gutter will facilitate the release of smoke into the chimney. The overpipe in the next row can be completely blocked. Only on the right side in the over-pipe you need to provide a hole closed with a valve. After the 33rd row, only the chimney is built up.

Right at the ceiling, you need to do cutting, which involves laying bricks. Using cutting, wooden ceiling structures are removed from the pipe. In addition, cutting is an important decorative element. Cutting, however, also has a practical function, increasing heat transfer.