How to plant strawberries in summer: timing and planting technology, video and photo. Garden strawberries: agricultural technology

How to plant strawberries correctly in August to get an excellent harvest next year? We have collected in one article the simplest recommendations, interesting tips and secrets that will guarantee you enjoy the tasty and aromatic fruits of this amazing berry. Strawberries grown in the garden bring many pleasant emotions to the gardener. But harvesting a rich harvest of this berry is not at all easy. Only by knowing the secrets of planting and caring for it can you grow delicious strawberries. New bushes of this berry take root in late summer or autumn. Let's consider the sequence of agrotechnical techniques before planting seedlings of this crop and methods of planting berry bushes.

How to choose and buy strawberries for planting

To get healthy strawberry bushes that will grow well without diseases and give big harvest sweet berries, must be planted quality seedlings. How to choose the right material for planting? Experts recommend buying annual seedlings with a closed root system (in cups). They must have fibrous roots at least 5 cm long and no more than three well-developed leaves.

They give a good harvest elite varieties strawberries It will be good if you purchase and plant such seedlings on your garden plot. To grow this crop, gardeners also use frigo seedlings, which are carefully selected from the berry bushes available in the garden bed, then dug up late autumn and stored in bags at low negative temperature.

Inspect the seedlings; there should be no signs of disease on the leaves and stems

Where is the best place to buy strawberry seedlings? If you purchase it on the markets from private suppliers, then there is a possibility that the purchased plant will be infected with diseases and pests. It is best to take healthy seedlings obtained from sterile plants grown using a special “test tube” technique. Such seedlings are sold by large manufacturers. In specialized nurseries, strawberry seedlings are sold from late July to early August.

The earlier at the end of summer you plant the bushes of this plant, the more likely it is that flower buds will form on them, and next year there will be a first harvest. When choosing seedlings, carefully inspect the seedlings. If you see pale, wrinkled leaves on the plants, or there are some spots on them, it is better not to buy such material. These signs indicate poor quality of seedlings and infestation with diseases/pests. Buy strawberry seedlings with the following characteristics:

— the leaves of the seedlings are leathery/pubescent, have a rich, healthy shine, green color;
— the horn of the seedling has a thickness of at least 0.7 cm;
— the length of the roots of open seedlings is more than 7 cm;
— seedlings do not have damage to roots or leaves;
— the core of the bush is strong, elastic, and has a rich green color;
— for seedlings in cups or cassettes, the roots must entangle the entire volume of the container in which they are located;
- the peat pot should have roots that have pierced through it and look out;

Soil preparation

It is best to plant strawberries at the end summer season in August. It is advisable to do this in sunny places and in the southwestern slopes with a slope of 2-3 degrees. It is not advisable to use lowland or closed areas for growing this plant. The acidity of the soil for planting strawberry seedlings should not be more than 5.5-6.5 pH. The berry bushes will give a good harvest if they are planted on podzolized chernozem soils or on dark gray forest soil, which has a medium or light composition.

The berries will bear fruit well and on sod-podzolic, sandy loam soils. It is not advisable to plant strawberries where groundwater is close to the surface. Before planting seedlings in a certain area, it is necessary to first examine it for the presence of pests, and if they are found, destroy the insects with special means. The land for planting strawberries is first cleared of weeds. Then, 2 weeks before planting the seedlings, prepare the soil for planting the seedlings. 2-3 buckets of organic matter per 1 sq.m. are scattered around the site.

What crops to plant after: predecessors of strawberries

When choosing a site for planting strawberries, consider what plant grew there before. You should not use the land for growing this tasty berry if plants from the Asteraceae, Ranunculaceae, or tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, or sunflowers have recently grown on it. So after what can you plant strawberries? And is it possible to plant this plant after onions? The berry harvest will be good if you plant the seedlings in the soil where they previously grew:

peas;
beans;
radish;
garlic;
parsley;
radish;
mustard;
dill;
salad;
oats;
onion.

After planting, strawberries need to be watered generously.
At what distance to root berries: planting diagram with photo

When planting seedlings, you should not bury them too deep into the ground, otherwise the center point or heart of the bush will be below ground level, which will lead to the death of the plant. Shallow planting of strawberries is also not allowed. This is fraught with drying out of the heart and death of the bush. The seedlings will take root well and grow if you plant them so that the center point of the seedling protrudes slightly above the soil surface.

When planting seedlings in a hole, you need to make a mound in it and place the plant on it.
The roots should not be bent; they should smoothly descend along the tubercle. If they are too long, be sure to trim them down a bit.
After planting the seedlings, the plant must be watered generously and a solution of HB 101-93 should be added to each seedling, diluting 93 drops of this substance in 1 liter of water.
Then the young bushes are mulched with compost (5-6 cm) or straw, hay, sawdust (10 cm) and covered with special material to create a greenhouse effect for better rooting of seedlings.

Subsequently, the bushes are regularly weeded and the mustache is removed. If the weather is dry after planting the seedlings, you need to water the crop so that the soil on the site is moist. During this period, flower buds are being laid, on which the berry harvest next year depends. There are several schemes for planting strawberries:

- one-line. This is planting seedlings in one row. The distance between plant bushes should be 15-20 cm, and between rows - 60-70 cm;
- two-line. This is planting in ribbons consisting of 2 rows of bushes. The distance between ribbons is 60-70 cm, in rows - 30 cm, bushes - 15-20 cm;
- natural agricultural technology. With this scheme, seedlings are planted every 50 cm in one row on beds 50 cm wide. The distance between rows is 50 cm.

How to fertilize the soil before planting

2 weeks before planting seedlings, it is advisable to add 40 g of double superphosphate and up to 20 g of potassium fertilizers (wood ash or potassium sulfate) to the soil (for every 1 sq.m). It is advisable to add organic matter to the holes for planting seedling bushes. To do this, dig a 25x25x25 cm hole for each seedling and fill it with a mixture consisting of 1 bucket of soil from the site, 1 bucket of compost, 1 bucket of rotted horse manure, 2 cups of ash.
Landing garden strawberries mustache in open ground

One of the ways to obtain strawberry seedlings is to root the tendrils from a specially prepared mother bush of this crop. On such shoots, rosettes and their own root system are formed:

- 2 weeks before transplanting, separate the young seedling obtained from rooting the mustache from the adult plant with scissors. From now on he will switch to his own food;
- when the strawberry rosettes ripen, transplant them to permanent place. When should you plant strawberries? It is better to start this process between the end of July and the end of August. This should be done on a cloudy day or in the evening so that the root system of the plant adapts well to the new place;
— divide the area for planting strawberries into rows with a distance of 1 m between them. Plant strawberries at a distance of 20-30 cm between the bushes;
- make the depth of the hole for strawberry seedlings 15 cm;
— the core of the rosette should be at soil level after planting. It is important not to deepen it or leave it above the ground so that the bush does not die;

How to plant correctly under black film

To obtain a large harvest of strawberries, gardeners use the method of planting plants under black film or agrofibre. These devices cover the entire area. Holes are made in the film for planting berry bushes. Black material on the ground does not allow sunlight to pass through, and weeds and other plants that are undesirable in this area do not grow under it. To implement this planting method you need:

purchase agrofibre or black film with an area equal to the size of the plot of the future strawberry plantation;
then lay the mulching material on the ground, placing its corners in holes around the perimeter and covering it with soil;
then begin the process of planting the seedlings. It is advisable to plant them in a checkerboard pattern with a distance between bushes of 25-30 cm;
Pre-mark the locations for the holes on the film and make small perpendicular cuts in them;
then dig holes through each hole with your hands and plant seedlings;
holes in the film should not be large so as not to provoke the growth of weeds;

What fertilizer to use or what to feed in the fall

Plants planted in August must be fertilized. This is done using different feedings. It is useful to treat strawberries with a solution consisting of 30 g of urea and 10 liters of water. Foliar feeding produce boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc. Treated bushes will bring more harvest in the summer, and the quality of the berries will be higher than on plants not fertilized with these substances. To make a mixture for feeding, prepare the following components:

— molybdenum — 2 g;
— manganese — 50 g;
— boric acid- 15 g;
- water - 15 l.

Caring for strawberries in the fall includes preparing the plant for winter. Cover the bushes of this crop with straw, peat, compost, fallen leaves or corn stalks. These natural substances will not only protect plants from cold in winter, but will also fertilize the soil. Bushes are also used as mulch special materials— spunbond, lutrasil. Covered strawberry will be protected from frost and will produce a good harvest next year. Further agrotechnical work with strawberries begins in April.

You can plant strawberries using a clay mash
Is it possible to plant next to different varieties strawberries

In some reviews from gardeners, there is a deep belief that it is impossible to plant different varieties of strawberries together. This way they cross-pollinate with each other, and then the quality of the berries on their bushes becomes worse. But experts say that the reason for the deterioration of the yield in such cases is not that cross-pollination occurs, but because the plant degenerates.

If you delve a little deeper into botany, you can remember that when crops are pollinated, double fertilization. As a result of this process, seeds are obtained that contain genetic information from a pollinator plant. However, with strawberries the situation is different, because its fruit is not exactly what botany understands by this term.

The juicy red berry on the bush of this crop is an overgrown receptacle, which is part of the mother plant and carries only its genetic characteristics. Therefore, the crop whose pollen pollinates strawberry flowers does not affect the quality of the berries. This means that planting different varieties nearby is not prohibited. But when propagating a plant with a mustache, it is important not to confuse which variety of strawberry the daughter rosette belongs to.

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Where to plant strawberries

It is best to grow strawberries alternating with vegetables. At the same time, crop rotation should not include plants that have diseases and pests in common with strawberries.

Anna Kolesnikovacandidate agricultural sciences, breeder

For example, you cannot grow strawberries after potatoes or nightshades, cabbage, cucumbers - they have viral diseases, which are then transmitted to the strawberries.

Strawberries should not be planted where phlox and gladioli grew - after uprooting, they may remain in the soil. stem nematode, one of the main pests of strawberries.

Good predecessors of strawberries: marigolds, calendula, oats, lettuces, spinach, dill, radishes, radishes, onions, carrots, parsley. Garlic is not a very good precursor.

If there are nematodes in the soil, strawberries should not be planted after legumes.

Planting strawberries

In most regions best choice for strawberries there will be early spring planting.

Anna Kolesnikova

It is better to plant strawberries from late April to mid-May. At this time there is still no heat, and there is enough moisture in the soil - the plants take root well and quickly, and by winter they manage to grow a good root and above-ground part

If you did not have the opportunity to plant strawberries in the spring, and you planted them in early June, they will, of course, take root, but the plants will be weak, sickly and may not winter well.

In autumn, strawberries are planted from August 1 to August 20, later it is impossible, otherwise the strawberries will not have time to take root and prepare for winter. At the same time, we must not forget that spring planting is still better.

Planting scheme

Most often, single-line landings are made. The distance between rows is from 80 to 100 centimeters, between bushes in a row – 15-20 centimeters. Varieties with tall bushes and good foliage are planted less frequently.

Remontant varieties are also planted less frequently: the distance between bushes in rows should be 25-40 centimeters. When planting, make sure that it is located at ground level and the roots are strictly vertical. Firm the planting so that the soil adheres well to the roots.

Anna Kolesnikova

Many people plant strawberries in beds, but in our conditions this is not entirely correct. The top layer of soil in the beds quickly dries out and damages the root system. It is better to use flat areas.

Before planting, it is advisable to dip the roots of the seedlings in mash. It can be either just water with soil, or vermicompost and growth stimulants, for example, Epin or Zircon, are added to it. After planting, the strawberries are watered with non-cold water.

If you have purchased strawberry seedlings, but will only be at the dacha in three or four days, wrap the bushes in a damp cloth, put them in a plastic bag and, without tying it, place it in the refrigerator. After planting, such seedlings must be well covered with non-woven material and watered properly.

Strawberries prefer fertile soil.

Anna Kolesnikova

If you have a large number of earthworms on your plot, it means that the plot has good fertility. Worms promote soil aeration, do not allow it to become compacted, they pass the soil through themselves and enrich it with their enzyme. But, of course, to have more worms, you need to add more organic matter.

Strawberry care

Caring for strawberries consists of weeding and watering. If strawberries were planted in the fall, then in the spring you need to go around the plantation, inspect and correct the plants, and sprinkle roots that might end up on the soil surface after wintering.

In the spring, after the soil has dried, the old leaves are removed, but it is not recommended to rush with this technique - wait until all the spring cold snaps have passed.

First spring treatment strawberries - loosening the soil crust to a depth of 6-8 centimeters. Near the bushes, the crust is loosened to a depth of 2 centimeters so as not to damage the root system.

Weeding is carried out as the weeds become overgrown.

The berries are harvested after 1-2 days.

Mowing

Mowing strawberries is carried out only in two cases: if the plants are really seriously affected by diseases, and if you have an old plantation and you need to update it. In this case, mowing is carried out from July 20 to August 5 (in Siberia - only during these periods, in the central regions - until the end of August).

Please note - the leaves are cut off, but the hearts are left.

At this time, strawberries need good watering and fertilizing. Mowing later can lead to weakened plant growth, and if you mow earlier, it will also be bad for strawberries.

Spring shelter

To ensure that strawberries begin to bear fruit a few days earlier, cover with non-woven material. To do this, in the spring, immediately after planting or after the snow has melted from the strawberry plantation, the strawberries are covered with non-woven material and sprinkled with earth around the edges.

​Anna Kolesnikova

The covering density of non-woven material is 17-45 g/sq.m. meter. Density 60 gsm. The meter is not used at all on strawberries, otherwise they will simply burn. If the shelter is even 45 g/sq. meter, then before covering it is advisable to wet it and try to somehow contaminate it, because burning is also possible. If the shelter is thin, then there are practically no burns.

Shelter is also made on remontant varieties, starting in August, so that the next berries have time to ripen before autumn. On remontant varieties, the coverings are removed at the end of September so that the plants have time to prepare for winter. The remaining berries - both green and red - are removed.

Winter shelter

Before winter, harvest strawberries in late autumn, when the air temperature is already stable -6-8 degrees, and the soil is frozen to 6-8 centimeters. But if a large, thinner than a meter layer of snow falls on a strawberry plantation, the strawberries can support them a little.

Anna Kolesnikova

Therefore, I recommend covering half of the plantation with covering material, and half with some other materials. To have a guarantee that some part of the plantation will be preserved. You can cover the bushes with humus - this will protect them from frost.

Take off winter shelters it is necessary either in early spring or at the beginning of flowering. During flowering, the shelter must be removed to cross-pollinate the flowers.

Reproduction by mustache

Strawberries reproduce well with tendrils: walk around your plot during harvest, select the most productive bushes that are free from pests and diseases, mark them with pegs - only then you need to take seedlings from them.

Abundant growth of seedlings begins in August. Until August 10, you can tear off the tendrils from the mother plant and plant the rosettes on picking beds according to a 7x7 pattern with very good watering. 10 days later, after the seedlings have taken root, you can give it good feeding with growth stimulants and liquid fertilizers. Epin and Biomaster perform well. In spring, seedlings are planted in a permanent place.

Propagation by seeds

Remontant strawberries reproduce especially well.

At harvest time, collect large berries, carefully remove the surface of the berry with a razor along with the seeds, but only in a very thin layer. Smear this layer onto the paper. The seeds must dry. If the layer is not thin, the seeds will be damaged by gray rot.

Dried seeds are stored in the refrigerator directly on paper. Before the New Year, the seeds are poured into a nylon bag, moistened, and placed in flower pot, filled with wet sawdust or wet moss. The top of the pot is covered with a plastic bag, but not tied. The pot is placed in the refrigerator for two months. During these two months, you must periodically check that the moss or sawdust is moistened, but in no case damp, otherwise the seeds will rot.

At the end of February - beginning of March, the prepared soil is poured into boxes and compacted well so that the surface is very even. Filter paper is placed on the surface, seeds are laid out on the paper (be careful! sometimes they can sprout after 2 months in the refrigerator.) On top, through a sieve, the seeds are sprinkled with a layer of sand 2-3 millimeters thick. Snow is poured on top.

Do not move snow on the surface of the sand under any circumstances; seeds must not be moved!

Place the boxes along with the snow on the windowsills and cover them with film. When the snow melts, the sand layer will be moistened. Wait for the sprouts to appear and remove the film.

Strawberry sprouts are so tender that they should never be watered to avoid damaging them. Spray them with a spray bottle every other day, and sometimes every day, because the top layer of soil dries out quickly, especially when the box is on the sunny side.

When the real leaves appear, the plants can be picked up, although nothing will happen if they sit in a box before being planted in the garden. Since planting will be done in open ground, and the plants lived in room conditions, be sure to cover them.

Dividing the bush

Bush division is typical for remontant strawberry bushes, which form tendrils only in the first year. Later they practically never have a mustache.

Reference

Anna Vladimirovna Kolesnikova - head of the selection center of the NIIS named after. Lisavenko. Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, dissertation on the topic “Improving the basic elements of cultivation technology planting material and fruit-bearing strawberries in the forest-steppe of the Altai region." Engaged in selection and variety research of large-fruited garden strawberries, including remontant varieties. Published 25 scientific papers.

Reference

Scientific Research Institute of Horticulture of Siberia named after. M.A. Lisavenko coordinates Scientific research on gardening in Siberia. The main activity of NIIS is the creation of high-yielding winter-hardy varieties fruit, berry and ornamental crops, development of technologies for their reproduction and cultivation. The institute's breeders have created more than 300 varieties of fruit and berry crops.

Planting strawberries in the fall has many advantages over planting in the spring. The most compelling argument for autumn planting or replanting is getting berries next year. When and how to plant? If you plant strawberry bushes in the spring, you will only get a harvest the next season. In addition, planting seedlings a couple of months before winter helps preserve flower buds.

Autumn planting (transplantation) is carried out when the cold has not yet taken hold, and the weather is pleasant with sunny days. Thanks to the warmth, the planting material comfortably adapts to its new place of residence, takes root, and gains strength for wintering. Autumn planting strawberries are also convenient for gardeners because they minimize labor costs for caring for the bushes, in contrast to vigilant spring-summer “duty” at the beds. Anyway, convenient time For planting strawberries, each summer resident determines independently. If for some reason you did not have time to plant this crop in the fall, you can always do it in the spring.

Autumn planting, photo:

Strawberry planting dates in autumn

It is important to plant bushes correctly and on time. Thus, the most best period in Kuban, the month of October is considered for this process, and for middle zone- this is August/end of September. At this time, young seedlings will not be actively attacked by pests and diseases, they will be able to get stronger and prepare for winter.

Early autumn planting begins in the second week of August and lasts until mid-September. The average time for disembarkation starts from the second week of September and lasts until October 15-17. The latest period begins approximately 30 days before the first frost. However, when determining deadlines, you should always rely on climatic features your region.

Most bountiful harvest should be expected after early or mid-autumn planting. Last days Warm August is the most acceptable period for this process. If you are going to use strawberry tendrils for planting, then focus on the time from the third week of August to the second half of September. At a later date, it is not recommended to plant strawberry tendrils, because such delicate planting material will not have time to fully adapt to the new place before the onset of cold weather.

Planting process, photo:

Planting strawberries in autumn - soil preparation, fertilizers

No later than a month before planting (transplanting), you must prepare the soil. During this period, the earth, as they say, will “settle down” - the roots of young plants will not be exposed later. Strawberries are considered quite unpretentious culture, but like any plant, she likes fertile soil and she has her own “whims.” For example, she does not like sandy, peat, clay and sod-podzolic soil. In such conditions, the yield of strawberries is significantly reduced, and it is not recommended to plant them on swampy soil - they will not grow at all. It should be borne in mind that even on ideal soil for it, replanting once every three years should be mandatory. The best choice of soil would be chernozem, loam, sandy loam soil.

Preparing the soil for strawberries when planting in the fall is to improve its composition and increase fertility. This is achieved by introducing useful components and improving aeration. Also good results gives preliminary sowing of mustard or lupins in the place where strawberries will later be planted. With the arrival of spring, these green manures will need to be cut, lightly crushed and mixed with the top layer of soil. This technique allows you to saturate the soil with nitrogen and improve its structure. Strawberries will grow well in the place where they were previously grown legumes(peas or beans), broccoli or cauliflower, dill, parsley and other greens. If tomatoes or cucumbers, as well as potatoes, previously grew on the site, then the strawberries may not like it.

Pre-planting green manure helps summer residents save on fertilizing, but does not eliminate it completely. If the soil was qualitatively saturated with potassium-phosphorus and organic additives in advance, then fertilizer for strawberries may not be applied when planting in the fall. Moreover, the bushes will not need additional feeding for the first couple of years. Well, if green manure was previously grown in this place, and fertilizers were used to improve their growth, such an environment will be ideal for growing strawberries. If none preliminary work were not carried out with the soil, it is recommended to add 7-8 kg of humus to the soil per 1 square meter. You can also add humus (humus) diluted in water right when planting bushes - it is poured directly into the beds. This culture loves compost, vermicompost, wood ash(the key to good growth).

Preparation of the bed does not include the application of nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as they reduce the immunity of plants on the eve of cold weather and frosts. The optimal level of soil acidity should be 5-6.5 pH, but not lower. Otherwise, the land will have to be limed.

If you have high soil acidity on your site, then it is best to apply lime a couple of years before the intended planting of strawberries. Concerning groundwater– it is important that their level does not exceed at least 80 cm to the surface layer of the earth.

Pests also love to eat strawberries: strawberry nematodes, beetles, wireworms are the most common “gourmets”. If you find their larvae when digging the soil, be sure to treat the soil with diluted ammonia (10-15 ml per 10 liters of water).

Strawberries - planting and care in autumn

High-quality planting material is the key to a good harvest! Choose bushes whose root collar diameter is at least 5-6 mm. The roots should be well developed, at least 6 cm long. Also pay attention to the number of leaves, there should be at least 4-5 of them. If the seedlings were purchased or taken from a neighbor, then they need to be planted as quickly as possible. If the planting process is postponed for some reason, place the bushes where the sun's rays cannot reach them, and wrap the roots with damp moss (or at least a slightly wet cloth).

Young seedlings that were grown from seeds are first dipped with their roots in a clay solution, and only then buried in the soil. This technique prevents the root system from drying out and helps the bushes settle down more comfortably.

Roots of a seedling, photo:

Preparing strawberry seedlings for planting:

1. Plants should only be planted in moist soil. It is preferable to do this on a non-sunny day, in the late afternoon.
2. It is better to shorten long roots to 6-8 cm.
3. The roots of the bushes can be placed in a container with a growth stimulant diluted in water (for example, “Kornevin”), about an hour and a half before they are buried in the soil.
4. As recommended by experienced gardeners, you can also soak the roots in a water-garlic tincture. This technique will improve the immunity of plants and repel harmful insects.
5. It is better to remove excess leaves on planting bushes.

The holes for seedlings should be relatively deep and wide, the distance between them should be at least 30 cm. For each bush, a small mound of earth is poured into the hole, after which the seedling is placed on it, trying to align the growth point with the surface of the bed. The roots are carefully spread along the sides of the mound, sprinkled with soil, and filled with water.

Caring for strawberries after planting in the fall involves loosening the soil - this ensures high-quality access of moisture to the root system of the plants. Then the soil around the seedlings can be sprinkled with an earth mixture with humus or sawdust. It will be nice if the bushes planted for the winter are covered with leaves or coniferous spruce branches - this way you will protect the strawberries during frosts, and the snow masses will remain on the beds. Periodically, the snow will melt and thereby moisten the ground. You can also cover the strawberries with agrofibre or straw.

Mulching with straw, photo:

Planting strawberries in the fall involves some conventions: growing tendrils should be removed immediately, as well as flower stalks. At first, freshly planted bushes need to be watered, but not too much (the top layer of soil should remain moist). After 8-10 days, the frequency of watering is reduced, but the volume of water, on the contrary, is increased. After about three weeks, your seedlings will be adapted to winter conditions. We should not forget that strawberries do not tolerate drought very well, so before the onset of frost, generously saturate the soil with moisture. When spring comes, it will be possible to remove the protective mulch and clean the bushes of old and damaged leaves. You can also play it safe and remove the top layer of soil (2-3 cm) for better penetration sun rays, removing possible pests.

Planting strawberries on agrofibre in autumn

Everyone has long known that bushes can be covered with appropriate material. However, you can do the opposite. A rather interesting method is to plant seedlings on covering material.

Advantages:

• No weeds.
• Protection of berries from contact with the soil - they remain clean and practically do not rot.
• This material is not an obstacle to air or water.
• The soil temperature is higher, as it is “warmed” by agrofibre.

Initially selected appropriate place on the site, it should be flat, sunny, with minimum slope. Next comes the preparation of the bed for planting strawberries in the fall - we dig up the ground, remove everything unnecessary (weeds, roots of trees or bushes), fertilize it with humus or other appropriate fertilizers (mentioned above). After this, we thoroughly level the soil, outline the beds, and lay agrofibre on the ground. The color of the material is not so important, but for some reason it is in the recommendations experienced gardeners Most often you can see advice on choosing black agricultural fabric.

Bushes on agrofibre, photo:

The canvas must be laid with an overlap (approximately 20-30 cm), taking into account the shape and size of the area. We lay heavy objects (stones, bricks) around the perimeter and begin to secure the agrofibre to the ground. This is best done using wire, pre-cut into pieces 50-70 cm long. We bend the wires in the middle, making a kind of pin, with the help of which we pin the material to the ground. This process can be done by eye or in a checkerboard pattern - whichever is more convenient for you.

1. We outline places for the bushes: the distance between them should be at least 40 cm.
2. We make cross-shaped cuts with a sharp knife.
3. We bend the corners of the cut.
4. Place the bush in the resulting hole.
5. We bend the corners back.
6. Do not bury the seedlings too deeply into the soil.
7. After planting, water the seedlings well.

If you have a large strawberry plantation, then when marking the cut locations on the agrofibre, we recommend using a marker. It's not difficult to make it yourself.

Further care is minimal and consists only of timely watering of the plants. This can be done using a hose with a special nozzle for irrigation. Thus, it will always be damp under the agricultural canvas. Before the onset of cold weather, strawberries are covered with protective mulch on top, as described above. In addition to all the advantages of this method, agrofibre will protect the berries from contamination, which is especially important during the rainy season.

Planting strawberries in the fall is not some kind of innovation; this technique has been successfully used in gardening for a long time. If you do everything correctly, you will be rewarded bountiful harvest early juicy berries. Try it too this method Moreover, it does not present any particular difficulties and the use of new technologies.

Planting strawberries in the photo

When choosing a place to plant strawberries in an area where the crop will be comfortable, take it into account biological features. First of all, we remember that strawberries are very light-loving. The quantity and quality of strawberries is directly proportional to the amount received by the plants solar energy. For this reason, we choose the sunniest place for planting strawberry seedlings in the spring. The duration of illumination of the berry garden with direct sunlight should be at least 8-10 hours a day. Even with slight shading, all varieties experience a delay in flowering and ripening of berries by 7-10 days, the overall yield is greatly reduced and, most importantly, the taste of the berries sharply deteriorates. The fruits become more watery and sour. Yield losses from gray rot in shaded areas increase, and leaves are more susceptible to all kinds of fungal infections.

In places with light openwork shading - under the crowns of adults fruit trees- for efficient use of space, only small-fruited strawberries can be planted. For this crop, the decrease in yield from shading is the least noticeable.

The second thing that should never be forgotten is that strawberries are a very demanding crop in terms of soil fertility. Therefore, when choosing a place to plant strawberry seedlings in the spring, we allocate the most fertile areas for it.

Be sure to pay attention to the mechanical composition of the soil and water regime. According to the mechanical composition of the soil, the most the best option for planting strawberries and wild strawberries - light loam. In areas with heavy clay soils and in damp lowlands with stagnant moisture in the autumn-winter period, strawberries grow very poorly. Root system rots, leaves and berries are severely damaged by fungal diseases. Areas with groundwater levels closer than 1 meter are unsuitable for strawberries.

Subject to regular watering and fertilizing, strawberries feel good in soils with high content sand. But southern slopes with light soils and elevated areas are still not best option. IN winter time on slopes, especially steep ones, strawberries can freeze severely due to snow being blown off the plantings. In dry years, which become more frequent in Lately, plants will suffer from overheating and lack of moisture. In this case, it is necessary to foresee the possibility of watering in advance.

Strawberry predecessors for proper spring planting in open ground

Science recommends annually renewing part of the strawberry plantings, but returning to the old place after 3 years, alternating the cultivation of berries and vegetable crops. It is clear that on ordinary summer cottages There are not many suitable locations for such a demanding crop, and ensuring long-term crop rotation is not realistic. In critical cases, it is necessary to take a break between planting strawberries after strawberries for at least a year.

The best option is spring planting of strawberries in black fallow, that is, in an area that is cultivated all summer, but nothing is planted there.

All plants of the nightshade family (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants) and pumpkin (zucchini, squash and pumpkin) are excluded from the precursors for proper planting of strawberries. Growing these plants increases the general infectious background in the soil and provokes the development of various root rots.

Among ornamental crops, annual asters, clematis, chrysanthemums, gladioli and other bulbous plants are dangerous predecessors of strawberries when planting, as are strawberries, which are susceptible to root rot.

Crops such as onions, garlic and beets as predecessors can trigger an outbreak of soil nematode damage. For this reason, their proximity to strawberry plantings is also undesirable.

Excellent predecessors for spring planting strawberries in the open ground that can improve soil health are green manure plants - nasturtium, mustard, phacelia or vetch-oat mixture. After growing green manure, their green mass is crushed and plowed into the soil, which can be considered equivalent to adding 1.5-2 kg of rotted manure per square meter of area. The application of organic and mineral fertilizers can be transferred to green manure crops, which will significantly reduce the weediness of the site in the future.

On a scale garden plot It’s not always possible, but you should try to place strawberry beds away from raspberry and apple trees. IN spring time when flowering they have in common dangerous pest- raspberry-strawberry weevil.

The strawberry planting shown in the photo demonstrates how to choose the right place:

STEP #1
STEP #2

STEP #3
STEP #4

Soil for planting strawberries: how to properly prepare the soil in spring

Haste in preparing the soil for planting strawberries and saving organic and mineral fertilizers during the main refueling is a common and difficult mistake for many gardeners to eliminate later.

If the soil for planting strawberries is allocated in a new area where there is natural grass - turf, then the soil begins to be prepared at least a year in advance. Previously cultivated areas begin to be prepared for spring planting in the fall, for the summer-autumn period - about a month before the intended planting.

Before preparing the ground for planting strawberries, it is quite possible to use herbicides to remove the most harmful weeds, such as bindweed, wheatgrass, sow thistle and sow thistle, in heavily weeded areas.

The optimal soil acidity level for planting strawberries in the spring is 5.2-5.5 pH. If the soil on the site is more acidic, then it is advisable to carry out deacidification and liming one to two years before planting the strawberries. Before planting strawberries correctly in the spring, you need to know that the approximate dose, depending on the initial acidity, is from 400 to 600 g of lime or dolomite flour per square meter. Dolomite flour preferable as it further enriches acidic soils magnesium

Before preparing the soil for planting strawberries, you need to decide where to grow: on high ridges or on a flat surface? The question remains open, since the correct answer to it depends solely on the microclimatic characteristics of the site and the degree of soil cultivation. On heavily clogged, heavy clay soils and uncultivated damp areas (where plants suffer more from excess moisture and lack of heat), the construction of ridges 10 to 30 cm high with completely bulk soil is often the only way possible way growing strawberries. In dry areas with lungs sandy soils(where plants suffer more from overheating and lack of moisture) or areas with a high degree of cultivation (low weed contamination, optimal soil mechanical composition), it is quite possible to successfully grow strawberries on a flat surface.

But whatever method you choose, preparing the land for planting strawberries after removing weeds begins with thorough digging to the maximum possible depth. The most modest option is the depth of the full bayonet of the shovel, i.e. at least 25-27 cm.

Preparing soil and beds for planting strawberries in early spring: what fertilizers to apply

Since we have already reminded more than once that strawberries are a very demanding crop regarding the level of soil fertility, in order to enrich the deep layers with nutrients, organic and mineral fertilizers, which is called the main pre-planting soil filling. The amount of fertilizer applied may vary depending on the level of fertility and predecessors. What fertilizers to apply when planting strawberries depends on the condition of the soil and its maintenance. For ordinary personal plot when preparing the soil for planting strawberries, you can focus on average doses - 6-10 kg are applied per square meter organic fertilizers(lowland peat, rotted manure (humus) or country compost), 100 g of superphosphate and 120 g of potassium sulfate. It is quite possible to replace phosphorus-potassium fertilizers with ash at the rate of 150-200 g per square meter.

If planting strawberries in early spring will be carried out on heavy soils, it is advisable to add sand to improve the mechanical composition.

After the second digging and embedding into the soil nutrients The surface is leveled with a rake, breaking up large lumps. After this, they begin to build ridges or lay out rows, depending on the chosen cultivation option.

Agronomists advise forming rows or beds for planting strawberries along a north-south line. In this case, all plants will be evenly illuminated throughout the day, first from the east, then from the west. With a different orientation of the rows (east-west), the berries on the northern side of the bush turn out to be less colored when ripe.

Correct fit strawberries in open ground in the video will allow you to accurately reproduce this process on your site:

Scheme for planting strawberries in spring in open ground

The correct strawberry planting scheme in the spring should provide for plants optimal level illumination and mineral nutrition, and for the gardener - convenience and safety of all maintenance work, as well as efficient use area. For these important reasons, you need to approach the choice of planting scheme quite seriously.

The main rules for planting strawberries in the spring should be available to all beginning gardeners.

• To obtain a berry harvest, everything regular varieties large-fruited strawberries can and even preferably be planted nearby. They have similar requirements for agricultural technology, and this is good for cross-pollination. It is quite possible to plant red and white-fruited varieties next to each other; they will not change their color due to their proximity.

plant remontant varieties in the same bed with ordinary ones is not recommended, since the latter require increased attention and care, different regimes of fertilizing and watering.

It is better to plant small-fruited strawberries and earthenberries in separate beds or areas.

• The length of the ridges or rows is determined mainly by the size and configuration of the site, as well as issues of convenience and technology further care for plants. It is necessary to provide in advance convenient and safe paths for passage during irrigation and travel with garden cart when fertilizing and weeding.
• The choice of row spacing is determined by finding a balance between the issues of convenience of plant care operations and the efficiency of using the area of ​​the site. Wide row spacing of more than 70 cm ensures convenient working, good lighting And mineral nutrition plants, but low efficiency of space use. Narrow row spacing - less than 40 cm - allows you to place many plants per unit area, but significantly complicates maintenance work. In addition, in strongly growing and “mustachioed” varieties, plantings quickly thicken. This, in turn, worsens the conditions for the growth and development of plants and provokes a surge in fungal diseases.

The optimal row spacing ranges from 40 to 70 cm.

Distance between strawberry bushes when planting

The distance between strawberry bushes when planted in rows largely depends on the varietal characteristics and method of cultivation. When planning an intensive cultivation technology with a quick change of plants (no more than 2 seasons), a more dense planting pattern is chosen with minimal distances between rows and between plants. If you plan to use plants long time, then a more sparse planting is preferable.

When purchasing seedlings, it is important to find out from the seller or later from other sources information not only about the size of the berries and yield, but also about the height, foliage and “mustache” of the variety. The planting scheme and, accordingly, the required amount of planting material depend on this. According to scientific recommendations, vigorous, densely leafy and “mustachioed” varieties should be planted with a large distance between plants in a row of 30 to 40 cm. For varieties with few leaves and small mustache, these standards are reduced to 20-30 cm.

When determining a scheme for planting strawberries in open ground, think in advance about whether you plan in the future not only to receive berries, but to independently renew the strawberries by planting runners. In this case, it is necessary to provide spatial isolation of at least 1 m between varieties. Otherwise, in less than a season, you will get a real “Olivier” of varieties, in which more mustachioed varieties will displace their less prolific neighbors.

Methods and options for planting strawberries in beds (with photos)

For any method of planting strawberries, you should follow general rules: soil preparation should be completed in one or two weeks, there should be no large clods, it is dangerous for survival to plant seedlings in unsettled soil, it is advisable to water the prepared area a day or two before planting. On hot days summer days It is better to plant seedlings in the evening.

For seedlings with an open root system, the plants are disinfected on the day of planting to prevent damage by root rot or leaf spots. A solution of potassium permanganate is suitable for these purposes - 1 g of dry substance per 10 liters of water. The plants are washed in this solution. Another good way- soak the seedlings for 5 minutes in a solution, for the preparation of which per 5 liters of water take 2 tablespoons of table salt and 1 teaspoon copper sulfate. After this, the seedlings must be rinsed with clean water.

Methods for planting strawberries in beds are most optimal for flooded, damp and clayey areas. For ease of planting, use a scoop or other similar device. With its help, they dig a hole a little deeper and wider than the size of the plant’s root system. If the soil is dry, then each hole needs to be watered. Water consumption is 0.5-07 liters per hole. Next, the seedlings with a lump of earth are removed from plastic cup and placed in the center of the hole. The peat cups are not removed so as not to further damage the root system.

When sprinkling plants with soil, remember the “golden rule of strawberries”. The heart should not be buried under any circumstances. If you are not sure that you can place it at soil level, then it is better to leave it a little higher than at least a little deeper. High planting defects are not so dangerous and can be corrected later by mulching. Deepening (especially when planting before winter) cannot be corrected, and its consequences are disastrous for the plant.

Having sprinkled the plant with soil, we squeeze it around with our hands so that air cavities do not form around the roots and the roots immediately get contact with the soil. To check the quality of planting, you can pull the leaf: if the plant is not pulled out of the ground, it is planted correctly.

Immediately after planting, young bushes must be watered well and done regularly (in the absence of rain) for another 7-10 days. Adding biological growth stimulants such as humates to irrigation water promotes the active growth of young roots and plant survival.

If, when planting seedlings with an open root system, it is dry and hot weather, then such plants need to be shaded from direct sunlight during the daytime using white agrofabric or paper. They take longer and more difficult to take root than plants with a clod of soil; as a rule, they stop withering at midday only after two to three weeks.

Lately, we have often heard debates about whether it is good for strawberries to be grown while completely mulching (covering) the soil surface with agrofabric - black non-woven material. This method has several undeniable advantages for gardeners in the form of a significant reduction in labor costs for weeding and a reduction in the evaporation of soil moisture in arid regions. However, we advise you to use it with great caution - after all, continuous cover of the soil surface makes it impossible to regularly loosen and dig up row spacing. In damp areas it makes it much more difficult to ventilate and dry out the soil.

Use as a coating impermeable to air and moisture polyethylene film harmful to strawberry plants.

But the most the main problem- the impossibility of carrying out a favorite and necessary procedure for strawberries - mulching the plants with a layer of organic matter. For these reasons, while this method of growing is convenient for the gardener, it is certainly considered positive and cannot be recommended for widespread use.

Strawberries are one of the most popular berries (they can only compete with them here). She is appreciated for her excellent taste qualities, excellent aroma, beneficial features and the most delicious compote that comes out of it.

It is not surprising that many gardeners and gardeners try to grow it on their plots in the summer, and in winter in greenhouses. However, not everyone is able to reap a large harvest, because this crop is finicky. It is difficult for novice gardeners to grow this queen of berries and create all the conditions for abundant fruiting.

To understand all this, you should use tips that will be useful at all stages of growing strawberries.

Basic mistakes when growing strawberries

1. Too dense and frequent planting. Strawberries grow quite well and planting bushes too often will interfere with development
2. Not cutting off the mustache. Many gardeners prefer not to trim the so-called mustaches of strawberry bushes, since it is with their help that they grow. But this has a rather bad effect on the harvest. As strawberries grow, they spend less energy and substances on the formation of berries. So if your goal is precisely the berry itself, then these mustaches should be trimmed from time to time
3. Planting in a place that receives full sun all day. Despite the fact that strawberries are a sun-loving berry and need a lot of it, too hot exposure to rays can lead to drying out and sunburn. Provide either a partially shady plant or a special shelter-canopy.

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