What does a weevil look like on a strawberry? Weevil on strawberries during flowering - control methods

Enjoy sweet strawberries Not only we love, but also all kinds of pests. For example, weevil. This is a beetle approximately 2-3 millimeters long. It gets its name from the elongated proboscis with which it spoils strawberries by eating them. The proboscis larvae are white, like the pupa, but then, after pupation, the body begins to turn black and after adulthood, the insect is completely black. It begins to harm the crop when warm spring days begin (around the beginning of May). Well-warmed soil comfortable temperature, the sun - all this ideal conditions for insects to live on your strawberries.

First, the weevil lays eggs in the flower, then the females necessarily eat the pedicels. This already causes irreparable harm to the plant. The laid eggs turn into larvae after a short amount of time. They eat the insides of the bud, if this is not enough for them, they move on to leaves, shoots, and then descend into the soil in anticipation of summer.

Signs of the appearance of weevils on strawberries are quite obvious - punctures in the form of small dots on the leaves of the bush (appear in early autumn), broken inflorescences (appear much later if the fight was not started or started too late), “cut buds” (as it may seem visually) , looking at the bushes).

Insects overwinter either in fallen leaves from bushes or in the ground. They tolerate wintering calmly, despite their love for tropical temperatures. Usually, they leave for the winter in early mid-August. Bushes with early and long term flowering.

The arrival of such an unexpected guest in the garden can be a real disaster. As a result, you will be left without a harvest and all your efforts will, as they say, go down the drain. It is unlikely that any gardener craves such an outcome, so after reading this article you will learn about the most effective and effective methods combat this pest.

How to deal with a pest

If you have ever encountered any pests in the garden, you probably know that the fight against them can be divided into several types:

• Mechanical methods. These are measures aimed at destroying the pest using only your physical strength. Usually it consists of setting traps and personally collecting the pest (when we are talking, for example, about slugs). Sometimes these measures may be powerless or ineffective.
• Traditional methods. Most popular among gardeners. Their popularity lies in the fact that you make your own mixture with which you will destroy the pest. The garden does not suffer any toxic harm; you know exactly what is in the infusion. However, very often these methods are not particularly effective or do not help in exterminating the pest at all.
• Chemical treatments. Sometimes this is the only way that can help save the crop, but gardeners usually resort to it last. Firstly, treatment with chemicals has several nuances, and secondly, it can damage the crop or make it unfit for consumption.

Mechanical methods

• Manual assembly of beetles. Place film or thick fabric under the bushes. Shake the bushes so that the insects fall onto the bedding fabric. Collect a “harvest” of pests and send them for disposal. This method, of course, will not completely get rid of pests, but it will at least reduce their population.
• Set up yeast traps. Take 500 ml of water, dilute it with 50 grams of yeast, ideally add 100 grams of sugar, but this is not necessary. It is necessary to leave for several hours (it is better to leave for several days until a characteristic smell appears). Next, take bottles/vessels with a narrow neck, grease the walls with oil and fill each vessel a third with yeast bait. Hang/arrange them around and wait for the results. The beetles will be attracted to this smell, but will no longer be able to crawl out.

Chemical treatments

• Karbofos. A popular remedy that is safe for the plant but lethal to the beetle. Suitable for processing by beginners, as it does not require special manipulations. It is not so expensive: 30 grams of the drug costs about 30-40, 60 grams - about 60-70 rubles. In addition, it is available in liquid form in canisters, but the cost reaches several thousand rubles.
• Ambush. An insecticide with wide range impact. It costs around 60 rubles. Effectively removes weevils from beds, and will also help cope with other pests. Economical consumption low price and low level of toxicity. Virtually harmless to plants and people.
• Aktellik. The drug is available in several forms: liquid, granular. Absolutely non-phytotoxic. Effective, immediately begins to cope with pests. It has long term protection. The cost of the product does not exceed 70 rubles. The disadvantages include a pungent odor, which is also toxic. If you work in the garden (sometimes it is used indoors), it can pose a danger to bees, which are nature’s assistants and help in destroying pests.
• Inta-vir. Widely used by gardeners in early spring during the period of prevention. Shelf life: 4 years. It has a toxicity level of 3 (medium, moderate). Works well with insecticides other than those with alkaline environment. It has a broad effect and is capable of combating more than 50 species of pests, including weevils.

How to process

It is very important to carry out processing in certain weather conditions: there should be no wind, rain, high humidity air. In addition, some drugs cannot be used in hot weather, this needs to be clarified in the instructions.

The preparation of the drug must be strictly in the proportions indicated in the instructions, do not be wise, this will not benefit either you or the plant. After preparation, proceed to processing - the principle is spraying, watering, generously lubricating the plant with the preparation (special attention should be paid to the leaves).

Remember the means chemical protection to avoid health hazards. If there are signs of chemical poisoning, consult a doctor immediately.

Traditional methods

• Laundry soap. The bar of soap must be completely dissolved in a bucket of water, then let the resulting solution steep a little. Then water the bushes, do it carefully so that there are no missed spots.
• Garlic- This is an excellent remedy for weevils. Chop 200 grams of garlic and dissolve in a liter of water. Water the beds affected by the pest with the resulting mixture.
• Sprinkle the beds and area around generously with wood ash.. This will instantly scare you away harmful insects.

Remember that if it rains during or after treatment, it is no longer effective, so it must be repeated.

Preventive measures

• Plant raspberry and strawberry bushes as far apart as possible.
• Give preference to late varieties of strawberries, since weevils cause the greatest harm to early varieties.
• At the end of the harvest, get rid of all organic debris; these insects overwinter in fallen leaves.
• Use a biological repeller - garlic. Plant it next to strawberries, its smell will overwhelm the attractive aroma of strawberries and the weevil will lose interest in your harvest.
• If you notice damaged buds or inflorescences, cut them off and do not leave them on the bush.

Damage to strawberries by weevils reduces yield by 60-70%. Insects cause great damage in the spring, when flower stalks rise above the leaves and buds form on them. It is important not to miss this period and take measures to destroy and repel pests.

The strawberry weevil, also known as the raspberry flower beetle, is a bug whose body is very small, about 3 mm. The body is black, covered with sparse gray bristles. There are inconspicuous longitudinal depressions on the elytra. On the head there is a long nose - a proboscis. The larvae are white, the head is yellowish or brown, the body is curved. The larvae form white pupae, which darken over time. Beetles emerge from pupae in the second ten days of July.

Weevils hide under dried leaves or in the top layer of soil and overwinter there.

They wake up in the middle of spring. Strawberry, or garden strawberries is the first plant to be harmed by weevils. Then they move onto raspberries and blackberries and damage the cinquefoil. They feed on strawberry leaves and petioles. Eggs are laid inside the buds.

In mid-August their activity stops and they go to winter.

Weevils on strawberries during flowering

Weevils are dangerous not because they feed on leaves and petioles, but because they lay eggs inside the resulting buds.

They cause the most damage early varieties strawberries, late varieties are damaged to a lesser extent.

When flower stalks with buds rise above the foliage, female pests pierce the bud with a long proboscis and lay eggs inside. Usually there is one egg in one bud. These insects are very prolific; one female lays up to 100 eggs. A week later, a larva emerges from the egg. It feeds on the inside of the bud. After 3.5 weeks the larva pupates. The beetles emerge from the pupae after 10 days.

The peduncle on which the bud is located is gnawed by the weevil. Because of this, the branch breaks and begins to dry out. Having dried completely, the bud falls to the ground. There is a doll inside.

To prevent damage to the buds, you need to have time to process the strawberries exactly at the moment when the weevils are ready to lay eggs. This is not easy, because flower stalks with buds can rise above the foliage rapidly if standing warm weather. Best time for fighting:

• the flower stalks have risen above the base of the rosette;
• dense buds formed on them;
• the buds are collected in a group and not yet isolated;
• the height of the peduncles does not exceed the height of the leaves.

When the flower stalks rise above the bush, become spreading, and the buds are less dense, it is too late to treat weevils. If you carefully examine the unopened buds, you will notice a small hole on the side, and the stem underneath will be damaged.

How to treat strawberries against pests

When processing, you should use preparations that are low-hazard for bees. At the end of April - beginning of May, the flowering period begins not only for strawberries, but also for many plants. At this time, the mass emergence of bees and other pollinating insects begins. By destroying pests, great harm can be done to beneficial insects.

The following drugs are considered low-risk:

• "Fitoverm";
• "Engio";
• "Iskra-Bio";
• "Admiral".

The treatment must be carried out in dry, windless weather. If it rains immediately after treatment, the drug will be washed off the plant. Spraying will have to be repeated. When choosing an insecticide, you should pay attention to what air temperature it is most effective at. Some drugs have required action only at certain temperatures.

Insecticide treatment is not carried out on blooming flowers.

Folk remedies for fighting strawberry weevil

Traditional methods against weevils on strawberries are not so much aimed at destroying them, but rather have a deterrent effect. The bugs do not lay eggs on the treated buds, but move to another place.

1. Treating strawberry beds with iodine solution has worked well. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of iodine in 5 liters of water. Do not spray under the bright rays of the sun.
2. Mustard powder dissolved in water repels weevils. You will need 100 grams of powder per 3 liters of water. Leave for 2 hours, spray with strained solution.
3. A mixture of garlic infusion and pine extract is effective. 100 grams of garlic are crushed and infused in a small amount of water for 5 days. Strain and pour water into a bucket. Add 350 grams there pine extract, which can be purchased at a regular pharmacy, and 2 level tablespoons boric acid.
4. Weevils will leave strawberry beds if you sprinkle them thickly around the bushes wood ash. Ash will not only repel pests, but will also be an excellent fertilizer.
5. At the moment of bud formation, you can spray strawberry plantings solution ammonia. 2 tablespoons are diluted in 7-10 liters of water. When working with ammonia, precautions should be taken. When preparing the solution, you need to close your nose and mouth protective material, inhaling it can cause a burn to the mucous membrane respiratory tract. In dissolved form, ammonia is safe.
6. Onion peels and fresh celandine are taken in equal proportions and filled with 1/3 of a three-liter jar. Pour boiling water over and leave for a day. Strain before spraying. There is no need to dilute with water.
7. In some cases it helps soap solution. To prepare it, a block laundry soap weighing 200 grams, grate. First, dissolve in a small amount of water, then pour this mixture into a bucket of water and stir thoroughly.

If it was not possible to process the strawberries at the required period, and the weevils have already laid eggs in the buds, then it is advisable to tear off and destroy all damaged flower stalks. If you are not lazy and carry out this hard work, then next year massive damage to strawberries can be avoided.

Preventive measures

Considering that weevils overwinter under dried leaves and in the top layer of soil, then in the fall, when the foliage begins to dry out, it should be cut off and destroyed. Carefully loosen the soil.

You can plant garlic or onions between the strawberry bushes. Their smell will repel pests.

Preventive treatment is carried out twice - during the period of bud formation, when the flower stalks have not yet risen to the level of the leaves, and in mid-July, when the bugs emerge from the pupae.

After harvesting, cut off all foliage. This is not only prevention against weevils. Removing the leaves in midsummer will help the plant to establish large quantity flower buds for next season.

Video

The beetle got its name - weevil - due to the long elongated trunk on the front of the head (rostrum). The size of the insect is only 3 mm, the color is gray-black. There are two divisions of weevils in the world - short-proboscis and long-proboscis. We are dealing with the second species; they like to settle in plant tissues.

The weevil feeds not only on strawberries, but also on raspberries, strawberries and flowers. There are now more than 70,000 species of grey-black weevil beetles throughout the world. And it is no coincidence, since these insects love tropical climates. The weevil spends the winter in already fallen leaves. When the temperature rises, spring comes, the insect crawls out and begins to feed on fresh strawberry leaves.

Warm spring The weevil attacks flower buds, where insects mate. New offspring of pests develop in flower buds; in late June - early July, the hatched guard of weevils feeds exclusively on the leaves of flowers and strawberries. Fortunately, today there are many ways effective fight with weevils, which makes it possible to save up to 40% of the harvest.

How to fight?

There are two ways to fight weevils - chemical and folk remedies. Remember that it is not so important which insect control product you choose. It is much more important to carry out the procedure for irrigating the beds at the right time.

Let's start with the fact that the fight against pest beetles should begin in advance, when the soil is still covered with snow. The temperature outside is not comfortable for weevils, and at this time they hibernate. The first spraying is carried out five to six days before the flower buds bloom. In mid-summer, irrigation is carried out a second time, which allows you to get rid of a new generation of weevils and prevent insects from overwintering.

The best way to drive away the weevil - irrigate the ground with a mixture of iodine and water (one teaspoon per bucket of water). A product such as Inta-vir tablet will help drive the beetle out of the garden. Take 3 tablets per 10 liters of water and treat the bed, and after harvesting the soil too. There are biological control drugs - Namabakt, Antonem - F, they can be used in early spring and late autumn. Also, Iskra-bio, Akarin, Fitoverm are suitable for the end of spring.

TO chemicals Anti-weevil medications include karbofos, metafos, and actellik. All in all, the best means There will be those that contain living microorganisms, due to which the percentage of insects will drop sharply. Fumigation of plants with various preparations gives good results - for this procedure, strawberries will delight you with their juiciness in the future.

If you still don't trust chemicals, you can take several traditional methods, verified experienced gardeners:

• the very first and most effective method of fighting beetles is mechanical destruction. To do this, you need to spread newspaper or paper under each strawberry bush in the evening, and shake off the beetles early in the morning. Afterwards, the litter with weevils must be burned. Note that this method is quite labor-intensive, and not everyone is willing to use it. But it is manual processing that makes it possible to effectively get rid of the insect;
• It's not bad to fight mustard beetles. Take 100 g. mustard powder and dilute it to 3 liters. water;
• Various herbs are good for fighting insects - infusion of tansy, wormwood, bitter capsicum;
• It is effective to use potassium permanganate - 5 g per 10 liters of water; the prepared solution must be sprayed on strawberry leaves. Also, a tincture of capsicum will help drive away the weevil;
• treating young leaves with ammonia will allow them to grow healthy strawberries;
• you can prepare a tincture from 100 grams of garlic, 400 ml coniferous tree and two tablespoons of boric acid. The resulting mixture should be infused for a week in a bucket of water, and then sprayed on the strawberry leaves.

Unfortunately, the effect of any folk remedy can be interrupted by rain, then the effect of protection against the weevil will come to naught. Rainwater will wash away any Chemical substance. The procedure for irrigating strawberry leaves must be carried out constantly.

Prevention

If your crop is ripe and the weevil has not been able to reduce it, you need to preventive measures in order to get the same result next year. To do this, with the onset of autumn, you need to cut off the strawberry leaves and weed the bed of weeds. This will prevent the weevil from remaining for the winter. The weeded bed should be irrigated with any insecticide. Take preventive measures after harvesting and immediately before it begins (in early spring), and then strawberries will delight you with their fruits.

Secrets about the weevil

To easily get rid of weevils, there are a couple of effective secret tips. The first is that the weevil cannot tolerate the smell of onions and garlic. Plant a couple of beds with onions and garlic around or near the strawberry bed, then the weevil will not disturb your berry harvest.

Verified folk remedy To combat insects, ordinary ash is used. Take some ash and sprinkle it around each strawberry bush in the spring. By following all the rules for fighting weevils, you will surprise your loved ones with a rich harvest more than once. ripe strawberries. Remember the most important thing - pest control must be carried out in a timely manner, then nothing will prevent you from getting an excellent result.

A small long-nosed bug can cause considerable damage to strawberry beds. Because of this, the berry harvest may be reduced by at least 60%. Weevils create the greatest danger during the period when buds appear. Peduncles rise above the leaves in spring, attracting the attention of pests.

How to deal with weevil on strawberries? There are quite a few effective ways. It is very important not to waste time, but to begin removing harmful insects immediately upon detection.

Description of the pest

Weevils (elephant weevils or mower weevils) are coleopterous beetles of the family Curculionidae. You can meet insects in different parts of the world; many of them are found in tropical and subtropical forests. In total there are more than 50 thousand of their varieties, in Russia - more than 5 thousand. They differ in color, shape and size.

Weevil on strawberry

A distinctive feature of insects is the presence of a rostrum, that is, an elongated front part of the head, like the trunk of an elephant. Russian beetles have pearl-gray, brown or black colors, making them invisible on plants.

Important! Visually identifying the weevil is very difficult due to its tiny size. Its length can be only 3 mm.

The insect's diet includes raspberries, strawberries, strawberries, and apricots. It eats not only fruits, but also stems, leaves, and buds. The voracious bug can also covet cereals stored at home, indoor or garden flowers, wood, mushrooms, aquatic plants or fallen leaves.

Favorite delicacy is buds. This is where insects prefer to lay eggs. If there are no flowers, then other fabrics are used (stems, roots, fruits, etc.). The female elephant uses a long proboscis to pierce the surface, laying eggs inside. There can be about a hundred of the latter in one plant.

After 7 days the larva appears. She grows as if in an incubator. As it grows, it completely eats the plant from the inside. A month later, she calmly wraps herself in a cocoon there. After another 10 days, an adult beetle appears.

Important! The beetle causes the greatest harm to early varieties of berries.

Varieties

Most common the following types mowers:

1. Raspberry-strawberry. The elephant has an oval shape, the color of the body and proboscis is black. Covered with dense light gray bristles. Grows in length up to 3 mm. He prefers to settle in the European part of the country, as well as in Altai and Siberia. It feeds on blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, rose hips, strawberries and other berries. Leads an active life from May to June. Overwinters in the soil.

Raspberry-strawberry weevil

1. Small black. The body of this individual looks like an elongated oval. The trunk is short and wide at the end. Color – black or brown, but with a shiny tint. The body is decorated with chiseled grooves and sparse gray stubble. The length of the elephant is 5 mm. He lives only in the European part. The diet consists of berries, beets, alfalfa and coniferous plants. An active beetle occurs only in dark time days.
2. Burdock or rough. The body has the shape of an oval, its color is light brown. There are also sparse whitish bristles. The insect is called rough because of the presence of yellow scales and raised tubercles on its body. The proboscis of this beetle is not long; on the contrary, it is short and widens towards the base. The length of the insect is 7 mm. It is widespread everywhere. Prefers to eat buds, tops of berries or vegetables. The larvae eat mainly roots. Most active during cloudy weather. He has good acting skills: if you touch him, he will pretend to be dead.

Burdock elephant

1. Furrowed. The elephant is colored brown or gray-black with yellow streaks. There are dotted grooves on the body. The proboscis is short and wide. Length – 10 mm. Prefers to live in “warm” places: in a greenhouse, greenhouse or nursery. It can feed not only on berries, but also on industrial crops. Does not disdain decorative flowers. The beetle has a special love for grapevine. Adult insects eat buds, leaves and fruits, while the larvae destroy the roots.
2. Alfalfa. The largest beetle on this list. Its length can be up to 12 mm. The body color is black or brown. It is completely covered with gray scales and yellow bristles. You can find it in the Caucasus, in the European part of Russia or in Southern Siberia. In addition to berries, it actively nibbles on legumes, vegetables, and hops. Active - from May to July in the morning or evening.

Important! Two weeks before September, weevils hibernate, stopping their active life.

Methods for detecting weevils

Unfortunately, the presence of a pest on a site is not easy to detect. By the time the gardener finally identifies it, significant damage will have been caused to the garden: the fruits have been eaten, the seedlings have withered, the buds have fallen off, and so on. Therefore, it is very important to know the signs that indicate the presence of weevils on the site.

Important! The pest does not emigrate far. He lacks wings for long journeys. The insect lives, feeds and winters in the places where it emerged from the pupa.

It is almost impossible to track an insect, it is too small sizes. One weevil accidentally falling into a garden bed will not cause noticeable damage to the plantings. You need to be wary of the appearance of a colony of bugs, which will quickly increase.

Beetles are especially active in early spring. By the beginning of August, during the period of late fruiting, pests, as a rule, hibernate. They can be detected by certain signs that indicate traces of vital activity.

Beetles are especially active in early spring

When examining strawberry bushes, pay attention to the following points:

There are always adult elephants, larvae or pupae near the affected bushes. The beetle prefers to breed, feed and winter in one place. If the colony is small, then getting rid of it will not be difficult.

Important! Having managed a fair amount of time in one garden, the pests will definitely move to another. From large quantity insects are very difficult to get rid of. This may take more than one year.

Pest control methods

If a weevil is found on strawberries during flowering, the fight against it will include a whole range of measures, which may consist of the following:

If a weevil is detected on strawberries, it is necessary to apply a set of measures

Chemicals

According to gardeners, the following drugs are the safest:

• Iskra-Bio;
• Fitoverm;
• Admiral;
• Angio.

Chemicals

When treating plants with them, you should remember the following rules:

• Plants must be treated in dry weather, otherwise the rain will wash away active substances, and the processing will have to be carried out again;
• There must be no wind so that the drug does not fall on adjacent plantings;
• You need to find out from the instructions at what air temperature the substances are most effective. If the thermometer is elevated or lowered, the drug may not work at all;
• Dilution of powders should be carried out strictly according to the instructions;
• During the spraying process, do not forget about personal protective equipment (gloves, masks, goggles).

Important! If the bush has bloomed, then it is no longer possible to spray it with insecticides.

Traditional methods

Some gardeners do not want to use chemicals on their plot of land, so they are looking alternative methods fight against elephants. Good help In this situation, advice from grandmothers will help. Such methods are cheap and safe, but require repeated use. Here are some of them:

• Ordinary iodine can save beds from bugs. You just need to dilute it in water, take 1 teaspoon of alcohol solution for 5 liters;
• Mustard is another gardener's assistant. 100 grams of dry powder is added to three liter jar water;

If you do not get rid of pests, their numbers will quickly increase. They are unlikely to destroy the entire harvest. But voracious weevils may choose other vegetable or berry crops. Therefore, it is very important to start fighting them in a timely manner and protect the garden.

How to deal with weevils in the spring when strawberries are ripening?

Who among us doesn’t like to enjoy fresh strawberries with own garden bed? A bright, juicy berry is a sweet reward for every gardener’s hard work. But what to do if a weevil pest has settled on your strawberries? In fact, the fight against weevils on strawberries is not at all difficult; it’s enough to know a few nuances.

Know the enemy by sight

Weevil - a small beetle gray-brown color 2.5-3 mm in size. Its body is covered with hairs, and on its head there is a long proboscis, for which it received the name weevil.

There are about 70,000 species of this pest on Earth, but only the raspberry-strawberry weevil affects strawberries.

Beetles overwinter under strawberry bushes in the remains of leaves and plants, and hide under clods of earth. In spring, when the snow melts and the air warms up to 8-15 °C. the weevil wakes up and moves onto the plant, feeding on the juice of strawberry or raspberry leaves.

Why is the weevil dangerous?

The most dangerous period is the period when the female lays eggs. It just coincides with the moment of separation of the buds. The female lays eggs in the first buds on the strawberry and then bites into the stem. After this, the bud dries out and falls off.

Thus, the beetle can destroy up to 40% of the strawberry crop. Moreover, this pest selects buds located in the very center, which produce the largest berries.

How to get rid of weevil?

Fighting weevils on strawberries is a painstaking task. You need to start it when the snow begins to melt. The air temperature is still too low, so the beetles are still hibernating under dry leaves. It's time to treat the soil with an iodine solution (half a teaspoon of iodine per bucket of water). We process every 10 days.

During the period of protrusion of strawberry inflorescences, about a week before flowering, insecticide treatment is carried out.

Will do " Inta-vir"(2.5 tablets per 10 liters of water). If there are too many pests, it is necessary to re-treat after harvesting in early August.

You can also use biological control drugs " Nemabact" And " Anthonem-F“, they can be applied from early spring until late autumn. In early May, you can treat with drugs " Spark-bio «, « Akarin" or " Fitoverm «.

Remember! If the weevil remains on the strawberries, it will soon move to the raspberries and vice versa.

If you don’t want to treat your garden with chemicals, there are other ways to combat weevils, for example, folk remedies:

• Infuse 100 grams of garlic in a bucket of water for a week, add 400 ml of pine extract and 2 tbsp. spoons of boric acid and spray the beds.
• Spraying plants with a solution of potassium permanganate (5g per 10 liters of water) or tincture of capsicum is a very good repellent for beetles.
• Place strawberries under bushes fresh sheets fern.
• Water with tansy infusion. Since fresh tansy grows later than strawberries and raspberries, you will have to buy an infusion at the pharmacy.
• Treat in the spring after the appearance of young leaves with a solution of ammonia (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water).
• Plant onions and garlic around the affected plants; weevils cannot stand the smell.

The most important thing to remember is that it is still impossible to get rid of all the beetles with chemicals. Therefore, do not be lazy and shake weevils from the bushes onto the oilcloth or paper underneath. Don’t be sorry for spoiled buds either, they need to be broken off, they will no longer bring any benefit.

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