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The main factors influencing the successful overwintering of a grapevine. Smart vineyard: how to properly prepare grapes for winter

A mandatory procedure that almost all winegrowers face is covering the bushes winter period. The process is of great importance for the survival of the plant and the preservation of its ability to bear fruit. In practice, quite a lot is used in various ways and methods of covering grapes. Great importance not only plays correct sequence actions, but also the quality of the selected material. Today, special industrial products are actively used for covering purposes, among which agrofibre occupies a special place.

Covering the grapes with agrofibre, under it - spruce branches

When it comes to using agrofibre as a covering material for the winter, not everything is so simple.

Only competent use of this material can have an effective result. In order to avoid sad consequences for grapes after the end of winter, it is worth getting acquainted in detail with the shelter of grapes and the role of agrofibre during this procedure.

Why do you need to cover grapes?

Grape heat-loving plant, which is sensitive to low temperatures. Lower temperatures can lead to the complete death of the plant. In most cases, individual areas of the grape bush are damaged, young shoots die, which ultimately leads to a decrease in the quality of the resulting harvest, and sometimes to complete absence berries The death of shoots occurs if the winter shelter is made poorly or the wrong material is used.

The main task of covering grapes is to preserve the ability of the bushes to produce a large and high-quality harvest, that is, to preserve healthy eyes. They are primarily affected by frost and cold weather.

General rules for covering grapes for the winter:

The procedure is carried out after autumn pruning bushes This period is limited to the end of October to the beginning of November.

Don't rush into shelter. The first frosts are good for the grapes. A gradual decrease in temperatures allows the plant to harden and prepare for winter. It is necessary to ensure that the temperature does not drop below - 12 degrees (the exact critical point of lowering the atmospheric temperature is determined by the varietal affiliation of the plant), since lower temperatures are already detrimental to grapes.

Frostbitten grape bush died

The characteristics of the shelter depend on the grape variety. The higher its frost resistance, the fewer measures need to be taken for protection. In addition, the vulnerability of grapes depends on the level of fruiting - increased yield reduces resistance to cold.

The older the bush, the more resistant it is to cold and the more hardened it is to frost. Special attention require young plants that have not yet grown plant mass and do not have strong and thick bark.

Grape bushes should not touch the soil itself when covering.

Laying grapes on slate will prevent them from touching the soil

It is best to place slats (5-10 cm) between the ground and the grapes. Direct contact with the surface can lead to mold and plant rotting.

In order to press the vine, experienced winegrowers use metal wire, from which a hook of the required size is made.

Covering methods and types of materials

Today in viticulture there are quite a few methods of shelter. They can be classified according to the type of material and procedure technology.

Covering with spunbond and soil - opening the bush in spring

Depending on the type of material, the following methods can be distinguished:

Covering with snow.
Soil use.
Use of sawdust. Some specialists and winegrowers point out the impossibility (ineffectiveness) of using sawdust as an independent means of shelter. In their opinion, they should be used only as an element of a combined method.
Use of straw.
The use of spruce branches (coniferous tree branches).
Use of polyethylene film.
Use of special industrial materials (agrofibre).
Combined method (use of several materials). The most effective and popular method.

Covering with sawdust and wooden boards

The most accessible, simple and cheap material shelter for the winter - soil. Depending on the grape variety and climate characteristics, the layer of covered soil changes. The thickness can vary from 5 to 50 cm. The soil is taken between the rows, but you should ensure that its movement does not lead to exposure of the roots.

The main disadvantage of using soil is the increased likelihood of plant rotting due to high humidity or as a result of a thaw.

It is better to choose a colored film for covering

Film is often used for covering, since this material is not in short supply. Cheapness, availability, ease of use – these are the main advantages of film. But this material has quite significant disadvantages: when areas of a grape bush come into contact with the film in winter, they are subject to serious damage; there is a high probability of creating greenhouse effect during thaws, which serves as the basis for the activation of life processes in plants, and this makes them vulnerable to frost and rot.

According to technology, there are two main methods:

wet;
dry (perennial).

Dry cover with hay and agrofibre

The wet method means the use of available means for protection (snow, soil, spruce branches, hay, etc.) and the absence of barriers to the penetration of moisture to the bushes. By dry method we mean preparation special devices(shields, reinforced trenches, multilayer tunnels made of film or agrofibre), which create special protected conditions, and protection tools can be used repeatedly.

According to the degree of protection for the winter, there are three main types:

hilling;
semi-open shelter;
complete cover of bushes.

Hilling is used to cover young grape bushes. It is also effective for mature plants in southern regions, where the likelihood of strong temperature drops is low. This type of protection involves creating a soil mound around the bush. Its height is 30-40 cm. The size depends on the parameters of the bush itself.

Hilling up will not protect open buds from frost, so this method must be used in appropriate conditions and in regions with a suitable climate.

Semi-open insulation with agrofibre

Semi-open covering of grapes is used in the south, in regions with warm winters. The method involves covering the lower part of the bush (trunk) with soil, and covering the upper areas special materials(film, fabric, etc.) or hay (spruce forest).

With this method, the use of agrofibre is ideal. The thickness of the “upper” cover (suit) should not exceed 5 cm.

The full cover method is used most often. It is especially relevant in regions with cold winters, as it can protect grapes from frost and frost. With this method, the vines are removed from the trellises, they are defoliated (removal of leaves and other organic formations that have fulfilled their seasonal function and no longer have practical value) and pruning. The prepared vines are carefully gathered into a bunch and pressed to the ground.

Vertical shelter for each grape bush

They are covered with a covering material selected for this purpose.

Agrofibre

Agrofibre is a special environmentally friendly covering material made from polypropylene. Another name for the material is spunbond. Agrofibre has a thin fabric-like structure.

Both white and black agrofibre are suitable for grapes

Properties of agrofibre:

Excellent moisture permeability. It can “move” in any direction, which avoids the accumulation of evaporation and condensation on inner surface fibers.
Delays the penetration of ultraviolet radiation through fibers.
Environmental Safety.
The material is suitable for repeated use (operational efficiency is maintained for 4-5 seasons).
Allows you to avoid the occurrence of necrosis (death of parts of the plant without its overall death).

Agrofibre is suitable as a winter covering material for grapes grown in regions with mild winters.

Tunnel covering of grapes with agrofibre

It perfectly protects plants from autumn and spring frosts. In regions with strong and prolonged temperature drops in winter, agrofibre is not suitable as the main means of shelter. It must be used in combination with other materials. In such cases, it is best to use it as the first layer of tunnel (trench) shelters.

Agrofibre covers for grapes

The negative qualities of the material include:

Necessity of purchase costs. Large vineyards may require quite significant costs for agrofibre.
High air and moisture permeability. This can cause the grape bushes to freeze and die. Agrofibre, saturated with moisture, stretches, which leads to its contact with the plant. This can lead to freezing and damage to the plant when temperatures drop.

Features of agrofibre covering

Covering grape bushes with agrofibre for the winter involves sequentially performing the following actions:

Stationary trench for shelter

The grape bushes bend down to the surface of the earth.

Covered with agrofibre.
The edges of the material are pressed against bricks, stones or earth.

Some winegrowers offer another method of covering with agrofibre. It is suitable for single bushes.

The vines of the bush are tied into a bundle. When tying, they are in a vertical position.
The bundle is wrapped with agrofibre in several layers. If the winters are cold or the grape bush is still too young, it is worth making a shelter with wrapping big amount agrofibre, covering the entire plant right down to the soil.

Circular trench for shelter

It is important before carrying out the sheltering procedure to carry out all the necessary preparatory measures:

trim bushes;
sufficiently water each bush with at least ten liters of water;
add fertilizer;
spill with a solution of copper sulfate (400 grams per 10 liters of water);
Periodically, the soil and bushes are disinfected with potassium permanganate.

Vertical shelter on a trellis

It is better to lay and bend the bushes when covering them in specially prepared trenches. Thanks to this measure, convenience and level of protection are increased. After the grapes are laid, they are fixed using special staples made of wood or metal. Specially prepared arcs are installed along the length of the laid plants. The distance between them should not exceed 50 cm.

Metal or wood can be used as a material for arcs. The length of each arc should not exceed 100 cm.

Agrofibre is carefully laid on top of the arcs to create a kind of tunnel. It is important to secure the edges of the covering material. Experienced winegrowers prepare special wooden pegs for this purpose. The ends of the tunnel are left open for ventilation until the temperature drops below 8 degrees. After temperatures drop to this level, they cover themselves.

Here it is autumn. All forces grapevine given over to an enviable harvest. Heavy bunches are collected and stored, and the bushes need to be prepared for a long winter rest. It is necessary that the grapes not only survive the cold season, but also preserve flower buds for next year's harvest.

It often happens that one winegrower’s plantings survive the winter without losses, but on the neighboring plot the grapes freeze or rot? This largely depends on the preparation of the vineyard for the cold.

Where to start?

Preparing grape bushes for winter begins in early autumn. Timely watering, fertilizing, pruning, treatment against pests and diseases, and reliable shelter will help the grapes survive the cold period.

Watering

During the growth of greenery and the filling of berries, the grape bush needs moisture. But even at this time, excess moisture is harmful. Excess moisture worsens the taste of berries and provokes an outbreak of diseases. And after harvesting, watering should be carried out in moderate amounts - the soil should be saturated with moisture without waterlogging.

It is important to remember that sandy soils are watered more often, but with less water, while clay soils are watered less frequently and more abundantly, taking into account air temperature, humidity, wind speed, and depth. groundwater and timing subzero temperatures. Timely watering will fill the vineyard with moisture and increase its frost resistance.

Fertilizers

By the time of harvest, the grapevine loses almost all of its internal reserves. Timely application will help restore its strength, preserve the flower buds formed on it and turn green in the spring. nutrients.

The soil can be shed with a solution of 20 g of aqueous extract of phosphorus and 10 g of potassium fertilizers dissolved in 10 liters of water. When watering, the soil is soaked to a depth of 25 cm.

It is useful to add to the irrigation mixture and water solution microelements: boric acid, potassium permanganate, iodine, zinc sulfate and ammonium molybdate.

As long as the vineyard has leaves, it can be treated with foliar fertilizers. This fertilizing will speed up the ripening of the vine.

Trimming

This procedure rejuvenates the bush, increases the quantity and quality of berries, and accelerates their ripening. By removing excess shoots, it is easier to cover the grapes for the winter, protecting them from frost. Pruning begins only after the leaves have fallen from the vine.. Early pruning will not allow you to store enough plastic substances in your sleeves for the coming winter. Pruning when frost begins makes the shoots brittle and they may break in the wrong place.

Many consider mid-September to be the optimal time for pruning.

When pruning, remove disease-damaged and dried out sleeves that need to be burned to destroy the infection. Then they give the bush the correct shape, cutting off shoots that thicken the bush and impair lighting and ventilation.

When pruning in autumn, up to a third of spare buds and shoots are left on the grape bush, in case part of the sleeves freezes or is damaged by mice. Be sure to remove unripe vines - they will freeze in the winter and serve as a source of infections in the spring.

Treatment against pests and diseases

After pruning, the vineyard is treated for pests and diseases. Autumn destruction of wintering forms of pathogens and pests will keep the bush healthy until spring.

A soda-saline solution can destroy the infection. For 10 liters of water you will need 10 tbsp. spoons of salt and 5 tbsp. l baking soda. The components are dissolved in warm water and process the entire bush, including the leaves. The frequency of treatments is at least 3 in mid-September.

Reduce numbers harmful insects and pathogens will be helped by digging up the soil around the grape bush.

The treated vine is laid on the ground. In 10 l hot water(40-50 degrees) dissolve 100g copper or 400g iron sulfate. The solution is sprayed on the vine laid on the ground. After the solution has dried, the bush can be covered for the winter. Calcium carbide will help scare away rodents from the bush all winter. It is used for welding work. Pieces of carbide in metal jars are left under cover. Carbide absorbs moisture from the air, and the gas released will repel mice and prevent diseases.

Winter frosts can destroy a grape plantation. Insulating the bush can protect the vine from low temperatures. Many materials can be used as insulation - from non-woven material to wooden panels or boxes. Each area has its own type of insulation. The creation of insulation is influenced by the variety of grapes being insulated and the method of its cultivation. Modern varieties are able to withstand low temperatures under light cover.

You can create shelters from various materials, it all depends on what is in abundance. IN northern regions, where coniferous spruce branches are available in sufficient quantities, this is the best covering material. Air passes through it in sufficient quantities, rotting processes do not begin under it, and pathogens are suppressed. A cover made of spruce branches retains snow well, creating favorable conditions for wintering grapes.

Where grape bushes are grown in trenches, in a convenient way steel insulation wooden boards. The vine is laid on the ground, treated against pests and diseases, carbide is laid to prevent mice, and covered with wooden shields on top. There are gaps between the boards for air circulation. The fallen snow will prevent the shelter from freezing. The lack of snow can be compensated for by non-woven material used to cover seedlings in the spring.

Use plastic film for winter shelter not worth it. Under the film is created high humidity and there is no ventilation. Sudden temperature changes cause condensation to appear, causing mold and fungal diseases.

Covering the bushes begins immediately after applying fertilizers and pruning the bushes - in late October - November.

How to properly prepare young bushes for winter

Grape bushes planted this year are not pruned. Only non-fallen leaves are removed from them. The bushes are watered; there is no need to apply fertilizers - they are applied during planting. Grapes of the second year of life are pruned, leaving 3-4 buds on one or two shoots. In the next two years, from 3 to 7 buds are left on the bush in the fall on mature shoots. Starting from the 4th year of life, fertilizers begin to be applied in the fall.

Preparing grapes for winter Middle lane

Preparing grape bushes for wintering in the middle zone begins with removing unfallen leaves. Then the bushes are pruned, leaving a fruit shoot and a replacement knot on each sleeve. Sick, damaged and immature shoots are removed. You can identify an immature shoot by its sound - mature shoots make a cracking noise when bent. Fruit-bearing vines are also removed. It is useful to carry out cathartic treatment of bushes in the fall. Superficial or as they are also called dew roots are removed. The base of the bush is dug to a depth of about 15 cm and all exposed roots are removed. The hole is filled with dry sand.

In outskirts of Moscow

The most reliable way to protect grapes near Moscow from frost is if they are planted correctly. Planting hole 60*60 cm in size with a depth of at least 15 will allow you to insulate the vine according to all the rules. On a dry, sunny day, the sleeves are rolled into a ring and placed on the bottom of the hole. The shoots are treated against possible diseases, leaving a pungent-smelling substance from mice - best of all, pieces of carbide. The top is covered with wooden shields or pieces of roofing felt. It is useful to additionally cover the resulting shelter with snow in winter.

Fruit-bearing bushes are protected during winter frosts by more complex shelter. The cut grape sleeves are placed on dry boards, or, in extreme cases, on dry soil. Arcs from temporary greenhouses are installed above the bush. Coniferous spruce branches are laid on top of the arches. You can use branches left over from trimming conifers growing on the site. Coniferous spruce branches can be covered with two layers of spunbond to secure branches and preserve heat.

Instead of arcs, you can put together a box from scrap boards. It is installed on vines covered with conifers.

Shelter of grapes in the Urals

When growing grapes in the Urals, you need to thoroughly prepare for sheltering your plantings for the winter. Saved for spring fruit buds will bring a decent harvest in the summer.

Sheltering begins in early October. At this time, all leaves remaining on the vines are removed, and after the first night frosts have passed, all fruit-bearing bushes are pruned. It is necessary to remove old, diseased, dried shoots. We leave the ripened fruit shoots and replacement knots. Young vines coming from the center of the bush are preserved. When pruning grapes in the fall, almost a third of the “spare” grapes are left to replace possible winter losses. In spring, unused eyes are removed.

A mandatory part of preparing for winter is catarrh. In autumn, be sure to remove dew roots to a depth of 15 cm. The resulting hole is filled with dry sand. The bushes prepared in this way are watered. Under each bush you need to pour about 10 buckets of water with the addition of potassium permanganate until it turns pale pink. All this is done immediately after harvesting. Top dressing in the form of a bucket of compost, two glasses of ash and 1 g of boric acid is applied to each square meter soil around the bush. Excessively acidic soil is limed.

Shortly before the onset of stable frosts, the grape sleeves are rolled into a ring, bent to the ground and covered. Materials that allow free passage of air near the bush are suitable as shelter. Coniferous spruce branches, wooden panels or sheets of non-metallic slate are suitable. Additional insulation will be a 20-centimeter layer of dry sawdust or husks sunflower seeds. One or two layers of spunbond will help protect them from blowing out. A layer of snow on such a shelter will never hurt.

As in other regions, preparing grapes for winter in Siberia begins immediately after harvest. At this time, up to 300 g of ash is added to each bush along with irrigation water. The potassium contained in the ash accelerates the ripening of the vine. Natural leaf fall is another component of a good winter. Dry ash applied to the soil destroys spores of fungal diseases.

With the onset of frost, the grape sleeves are removed from the supports. From small low temperatures the vine is covered with non-woven material.

October is the time for moisture-recharging irrigation of the vineyard. Pouring 50 - 80 liters of water per 1 m² of young vineyard area and 100-150 liters per 1 m² of fruit-bearing plantings will help saturate the deep soil layers with moisture. Soil moisture will protect the grape roots from freezing.

Simultaneously with watering, the bush is pruned. Trimmed vines can be used to take cuttings. The bush, freed from excess shoots, is easier to cover for the winter. You just need to remember that you need to trim to a minimum. Before spring pruning you need to leave up to 1/3 of the kidneys in reserve in case of damage. Unripe shoots, fruit-bearing sleeves and disease-damaged vines must be removed. The fruiting bush is pruned, forming a fruiting link - the upper shoot is left for fruiting, the lower shoot is left for replacement.

In Siberian conditions the best material Fallen leaves are used to cover the vine for the winter. The soil under the bush can be covered with boards or dry sawdust. Place trimmed bushes on them. With the onset of stable subzero temperatures, the vine is covered leaf litter up to 35 cm thick, throw on top of them non-woven material. The next layer is coniferous spruce branches, trimmed shoots and tree branches or vegetable tops for snow retention. A layer of snow at least 50 cm thick will complete the insulation.

Another method of covering grapes for the winter, used by Siberian winegrowers:

The base of the grape bush is covered with earth as high as possible. The soil must be taken away from the bush so as not to expose the roots.
The vines of the bush are collected into a bunch and tied with a rope.
The next layer is several layers of non-woven material.
The insulation is completed by roofing felt.
The resulting “cocoon” is placed on wooden base– boxes or pallets.

Grapes grown in trenches are placed on the bottom and covered with several layers of spunbond or agrospan. The trench is covered with wooden shields. Insulation is placed on them - polystyrene foam, corrugated cardboard or polypropylene bags. The final layer is waterproofing roofing material or polyethylene. You can prevent damping off by creating side vents. They are closed when constant negative temperatures are established.

Rules for preparing grapes for wintering: video

Of course, the best remedy protection of grape plantings from frost is snow. It serves as the final layer for any method of covering in any region.

In the Russian climate, preparing grapes for winter is a very important stage, because you not only need to do everything correctly necessary procedures, but also choose the most suitable time for this. If you make a mistake with the timing, you may encounter freezing or damping off of the vineyard.

The ability of grape bushes to tolerate the cold season well depends largely on how carefully they were cared for throughout the season. Affected by diseases, weakened grapes with unripened wood are unlikely to survive frosts, so in the spring you need to think about how to preserve the grapes for the winter.

Throughout the season, regularly inspect the grape bushes and promptly combat fungal diseases by treating the vineyard with fungicides and cutting out damaged branches. After picking the berries, you can apply one and a half or even double dose chemical agent so that the plants concentrate their energy on ripening and go into winter healthy.

Video about the rules for preparing grapes for winter

The longer the grapes lie under shelter, and the warmer the temperature in the shelter, the more nutrients the plant uses to maintain important life processes. In addition, by spring there should be a sufficient supply of nutrition in the roots and vines for the development of young shoots in early spring. Your task: do not forget to be comprehensive mineral fertilizers and organic, as well as carry out foliar feeding several times a season.

Healthy vines with a thickness of 6 to 13 mm ripen and overwinter best, especially if the core occupies no more than a third of the diameter of the vine. Such grapevines have accumulated enough nutrients for successful wintering.

The resistance of grapes to frost largely depends on whether the wood has had time to ripen. The mature vine has Brown color, remains warm during frosts and makes a characteristic crack when bent, without breaking. Scourges with immature greenish wood should be removed during autumn pruning, as they not only will not survive the winter, but will also create a risk of damage covered grapes fungi and mold.

In the photo there are grapes

How to achieve full ripening of grape wood:

choose varieties that have time to ripen well in your region;
monitor the health of the grape bushes;
thin out the grapes and remove unnecessary branches;
maintain an optimal load on the vines (the more clusters, the later the wood will ripen);
feed the vineyard potash fertilizers and ash - potassium is very important for vine ripening;
exclude nitrogen fertilizers from mid-summer, so that the plant’s energy is not spent on the formation of unnecessary green mass;
carry out the autumn chasing, cutting off the shoots above the 15th leaf.

Shoots should be minted during the period when grape growth slows down. This period can be determined by the tops: if they are straightened, it means that the growth processes have begun to decline, and curved tops indicate active growth. Start chasing when the bushes have both curved and straight tops.

The photo shows the embossing of grapes

So, during the summer you diligently looked after the vineyard, keeping the plants in healthy condition. With the onset of autumn, it’s time to start preparing the grape bushes for shelter for the winter. To do this, you will have to prune the shoots, cauterize the roots and carry out moisture-recharging irrigation.

Immediately after harvesting the grapes, you should not rush to cut off the fruit-bearing branches; give the plants the opportunity to replenish their supply of nutrients a little and get stronger. Too much early pruning will significantly reduce the winter hardiness of grapes, so experienced winegrowers advise starting pruning with the onset of the first frost (usually at the end of October).

The main purpose of autumn pruning is to free the plant from vines that have already produced fruit. Instead, a fruit arrow and a replacement knot are left on each sleeve. All diseased, damaged, old branches and immature vines are also removed. You can read in detail about the rules and important subtleties on our website.

Photo of grape pruning

The next step will be catarrhization or destruction of dewy grape roots that grow near the surface of the earth, on the underground part of the grape trunk. Catarrh is necessary so that the deep roots become stronger and take root well. The procedure is simple:

Dig a groove up to 20 cm deep around the trunk;
cut all the roots flush with the main root;
treat the sections with copper sulfate;
fill the groove with dry sand;
Hill up the grape bush and water it, since pruning the surface roots causes the plant to have a strong need for moisture.

Water-recharging irrigation is of particular importance for successful wintering of grapes. They are carried out in October or November, just before covering the bushes. However, there is no need for moisture-recharging irrigation if October is rainy.

The photo shows one of the ways to cover grapes

Immediately after pruning and cutting, without waiting for frost, you should begin tying and bending the grape bushes. Calendar dates can vary greatly, as weather conditions change every year. The main thing is that the grapes survive the first frosts open, then the vines will be hardened and will be more resistant to cold.

Remove the grape shoots trimmed and treated with copper sulfate from the trellis and lay them on the ground, carefully pinning them with staples. It is advisable to lay dry soil under the vines. plant material(spruce branches, leaves, branch cuttings). Place wooden boards with edges on the vines to leave some space around the stems. You can cover the shields with tarpaulin, polyethylene, roofing felt or other waterproof material. And add additional rags on top, or add a small layer of earth.

Video about preparing grapes for winter

Sheltering grapes: how and how to cover grapes for the winter

Covering grapes for the winter

Dry grape cover

(What is dry and how to cover grapes for the winter)

Sheltering grapes for the winter- one of the main agrotechnical works in the conditions of northern viticulture. The dry method of covering the bushes has proven itself well, allowing the grapes to be completely protected from unfavorable conditions. weather conditions. Natural protection with a layer of dry snow is better than wrong closed vine. The air contained in it, due to its low thermal conductivity, slows down the cooling of the soil. However, snow cover is not enough reliable protection, sometimes completely absent. Light frosts during this period not only do not harm the grapes, but also increase their endurance. The grapes need shelter after the onset of constant frost, in the second half of October, when the temperature drops below -5°C. I make light shelter for the winter, as the snow cover helps. The essence of this method is that I first prune the grape bush in order to shape it for next year, then I pin the vines to the soil so that the vine is at a distance of 10 cm from the soil, and I cover everything with dry sawdust. It should be dry under the shelter. I cover the top of the laid out and pinned vines with plastic wrap. In this case, it will not get wet and warm. It is necessary to cover it so that water does not approach the bushes. From the wind, the film is pressed against the edges by boards or covered with earth. At the same time, there should be vents along the boundaries of the film cover for free access of air to the vine. With the onset of cold weather, there should be a layer of snow above the shelter and above the side vents. In the spring, after the snow has melted, it is important to remove the film from the shelter in time to avoid heating. This should be done when severe night frosts stop and the night temperature is no lower than -5°C. When the ground thaws and sprouts appear, all the shelter is removed. It is better to do this on a cloudy day or evening, so that the bright spring sun does not damage the shoots of the bushes. After that, old leaves are collected and burned, dry and damaged shoots are cut out. Rake off the soil that covered the plant. Also level the mulch layer between the rows and sprinkle it with garden soil to speed up the rotting process. The mulch layer, turning into humus, will serve as fertilizing. Additional loosening of the soil with a hoe or rake will increase oxygen access to the roots. On a sunny day, remove the film coverings, dry the vines and cover them again until stable warm weather sets in.

Yuri Novikov , Ekaterinburg

Read about how and how to cover grapes for the winter in the following article:

Grapes under the protection of the earth

My site is in a lowland, and all cold air flocks there. There is little joy in this, because it is better to plant grapes in elevated places, with south side slopes But when there is no choice, you have to grow in the lowlands. In the winter of 2005/2006, in my vineyard for weeks at the level of snow (its layer was 30-40 cm), the temperature was minus 40-50°, but the bushes of Early Magarach (it is believed that the grape vines of this variety can withstand minus 18°), like all other varieties overwintered well.

I not only pin, but also cover the pinned vines with earth, as they do in Kuban and Ukraine. In this case, it is important that the place where the grapes are planted is slightly above ground level, that is, on a mound. During winter thaws, water should not stand where the vines are buried. Make dry shelters from boards, film, roofing felt, then ventilate every time there is a thaw. - Not everyone can do this, especially if the vineyard is large. Hilling with earth is much easier: take a hoe and hill up the pinned vine, like potatoes. When the ground thaws, the grapes need to be dug up, then “he himself knows” when to open the buds.

In my opinion, this method is also good: the pinned vine is covered without pinning with boards, which are then covered with snow. In this case, after the snow melts, the vine immediately begins to breathe, without waiting for it to be dug up.

The two methods described are suitable for growing grapes in a standard-free multi-sleeve form.

The roots of grapes, depending on the variety, can withstand frost from 5 to 9°, so when planting they need to be “hidden” deeper. But up to a certain limit. If you plant a seedling at a depth of 50-60 cm, this will lead to a delay in the development of the bush, since the soil at this depth, in conditions of a relatively short summer, does not warm up for long and insufficiently. It is necessary that in winter the root is hidden from freezing, and in summer it grows in a warmed layer of soil. It is better if, after planting, the vine begins to grow in a hole below the soil level by about 15 cm. As the vine grows, the hole is sprinkled.

I do not agree with those winegrowers who leave their vines unpruned over the winter. In addition to the inconvenience of twisting or pulling long vines along the ground, this causes damage to them. Ultimately, the vines are cut down in the spring anyway. It’s easier to prune the vine in the fall and save the cuttings, if needed. It's better for the bush too- the additional load on the root associated with overwintering the unnecessary mass of wood is reduced.

How else can you cover grapes for the winter, read the following article:

Yuri Petrov , Zhukovsky

And one more article about how and how to cover grapes for the winter:

Grapes on the boardwalk

After trimming the vine, I tie the sleeves into one bundle. I put it on a flooring made of boards that lie on bars 5-7 cm high. This is necessary in order to isolate the grapes from the ground, since the sleeves and vines laid directly on the ground can rot from the mold that forms on it in the fall, in warm, humid weather. weather (at temperatures above 7°) after frost. I remove leaves, grass, everything that can rot from under the bushes and from the place where the grapes are hidden. A bunch of vines and sleeves are easy to roll into a circle. I lay the bushes growing in the trench towards each other and tie the bunches together. They can be covered with spruce branches on top. They remain in this state until they are sheltered for the winter.

Grape buds on a woody vine European varieties can withstand frosts up to 20°, and in Amur ones - up to 40°. You also need to take into account that 1 cm of snow holds 1 degree of temperature. With a snow cover height of 50 cm, the temperature at the surface of the earth remains close to 0°. Therefore, grapes are not afraid of any frost under the snow. It can be left in winter without shelter or under a light cover of roofing felt or plastic film. To prevent the buds from getting wet during winter thaws, and to prevent high humidity from contributing to the formation of mold, it is necessary to leave vents on the sides of the shelter.

Things are more difficult in snowless, cold winters with air temperatures below 25°. In this case, additional shelter from dry leaves, tops, and bags of sawdust is required. All this is placed on spruce branches and covered with waterproof material.

The roots of grapes need warmer shelter than the above-ground part. Tree trunk circle within a radius of 2 m I cover with spruce branches. This is enough. Adding more snow to the shelter also helps.

Nikolay Sergeev , Yuzhnouralsk

In 2014, the Japanese company Takii seed introduced petunia with a striking petal color - salmon-orange. Based on associations with the bright colors of the southern sunset sky, the unique hybrid was named African Sunset. Needless to say, this petunia instantly won the hearts of gardeners and was in great demand. But in the last two years, the curiosity has suddenly disappeared from store windows. Where did the orange petunia go?

In our family Bell pepper they love it, that’s why we plant it every year. Most of the varieties that I grow have been tested by me for more than one season; I cultivate them constantly. I also try to try something new every year. Pepper is a heat-loving plant and quite whimsical. About varietals and hybrid varieties tasty and productive sweet peppers, which grow well for me, and will be discussed further. I live in middle lane Russia.

Meat cutlets with broccoli in béchamel sauce - great idea for a quick lunch or dinner. Start by preparing the mince and at the same time heat 2 liters of water to a boil to blanch the broccoli. By the time the cutlets are fried, the cabbage will be ready. All that remains is to collect the ingredients in a frying pan, season with sauce and bring to readiness. Broccoli needs to be cooked quickly to retain its vibrant color. green color, which, when cooked for a long time, either fades or the cabbage turns brown.

Home floriculture- not only an exciting process, but also a very troublesome hobby. And, as a rule, the more experience a grower has, the healthier his plants look. What should those who have no experience but want to have a home do? houseplants- not elongated, stunted specimens, but beautiful and healthy ones, not causing a feeling of guilt with their fading? For beginners and flower growers who do not have much experience, I will tell you about the main mistakes that are easy to avoid.

Lush cheesecakes in a frying pan with banana-apple confiture - another recipe for everyone’s favorite dish. To prevent cheesecakes from falling off after cooking, remember a few simple rules. Firstly, only fresh and dry cottage cheese, secondly, no baking powder or soda, thirdly, the thickness of the dough - you can sculpt from it, it is not tight, but pliable. A good dough with a small amount of flour can only be obtained from good cottage cheese, and here again see the “firstly” point.

It is no secret that many drugs from pharmacies have migrated to summer cottages. Their use, at first glance, seems so exotic that some summer residents are perceived with hostility. At the same time, potassium permanganate is a long-known antiseptic that is used in both medicine and veterinary medicine. In plant growing, a solution of potassium permanganate is used both as an antiseptic and as a fertilizer. In this article we will tell you how to properly use potassium permanganate in the garden.

Pork meat salad with mushrooms is a rural dish that can often be found on festive table in the village. This recipe is with champignons, but if you have the opportunity to use wild mushrooms, be sure to cook it this way, it will be even tastier. You don’t need to spend a lot of time preparing this salad - put the meat in a pan for 5 minutes and another 5 minutes for slicing. Everything else happens practically without the participation of the cook - the meat and mushrooms are boiled, cooled, and marinated.

Cucumbers grow well not only in a greenhouse or conservatory, but also in open ground. Typically, cucumbers are sown from mid-April to mid-May. Harvesting in this case is possible from mid-July to the end of summer. Cucumbers cannot tolerate frost. That's why we don't sow them too early. However, there is a way to bring their harvest closer and taste the juicy beauties from your garden at the beginning of summer or even in May. It is only necessary to take into account some of the features of this plant.

Poliscias – great alternative classic variegated shrubs and trees. The elegant round or feathery leaves of this plant create a strikingly festive curly crown, and its elegant silhouettes and rather modest character make it an excellent candidate for the role of large plant in the house. Larger leaves do not prevent it from successfully replacing Benjamin and Co. ficus. Moreover, polyscias offers much more variety.

Pumpkin cinnamon casserole is juicy and incredibly tasty, a little like pumpkin pie, but unlike pie, it is more tender and just melts in your mouth! This is the perfect sweet recipe for a family with children. As a rule, kids don’t really like pumpkin, but they never mind eating something sweet. Sweet pumpkin casserole is a delicious and healthy dessert, which, moreover, is very simple and quick to prepare. Try it! You'll like it!

A hedge is not only one of essential elements landscape design. It also performs various protective functions. If, for example, the garden borders a road, or a highway passes nearby, then hedge simply necessary. “Green walls” will protect the garden from dust, noise, wind and create a special comfort and microclimate. In this article we will look at optimal plants to create a hedge that can reliably protect the area from dust.

Many crops require picking (and more than one) in the first weeks of development, while for others transplantation is “contraindicated.” To “please” both of them, you can use non-standard containers for seedlings. Another good reason to try them is saving money. In this article we will tell you how to do without the usual boxes, pots, cassettes and tablets. And let’s pay attention to non-traditional, but very effective and interesting containers for seedlings.

Useful vegetable soup red cabbage with celery, red onion and beets - a vegetarian soup recipe that can also be prepared in fast days. For those who decide to lose a few extra pounds, I would advise not to add potatoes, and slightly reduce the amount olive oil(1 tablespoon is enough). The soup turns out to be very aromatic and thick, and during Lent you can serve a portion of the soup with lean bread - then it will be satisfying and healthy.

Surely everyone has already heard about the popular term “hygge”, which came to us from Denmark. This word cannot be translated into other languages of the world. Because it means a lot of things at once: comfort, happiness, harmony, spiritual atmosphere... In this northern country, by the way, most of the time of the year there is cloudy weather and little sun. Summer is also short. And the level of happiness is one of the highest (the country regularly ranks first in the UN global rankings).