When to open roses, how to save roses in spring. When to open roses in spring - important nuances of proper care

Not all roses can survive the winter; sometimes, even if all the rules are followed, it turns out that some plant has suffered. It’s a shame, what should I do... Of course, all is not lost, there is still a chance to go out and save the rose. Today we’ll talk about when to open roses in the spring after wintering, as well as how to save roses from damping off.

It would seem that I did everything according to the instructions: I covered my roses, the plants overwintered, in the spring I checked the shoots - they were green, but then they darkened and died... What went wrong?

When to open roses in spring

In spring it is important not to miss the moment when to remove winter shelters from rose bushes. The most common reason for the death of roses in spring is damping off. Winter is over, the roses have overwintered, and then they are steamed. Try not to let this happen! Most optimal method air-dry shelters, take this into account when covering your plantings.

How to save roses from damping off

Rose bushes are very sensitive and react to warming quite quickly. As soon as warm days set in, the plants emerge from winter anabiosis: the buds begin to swell, although the roots in the ground have not yet awakened.

How to save roses from damping off

I advise covering roses non-woven material , agrofibre, which breathes and repels excess sunlight, thanks to white color. Excessive heat does not accumulate under such a cloth and this has a very positive effect on the condition of the rose shoots.

During periods of heavy snow melting make sure that melt water does not stagnate under the roses. Try to make drainage grooves to divert water away from the plantings. The roots don't need so much moisture. On particularly warm days, raise the edges of the shelters and provide ventilation to the shelter.

When to remove cover from roses

When to remove coverings from roses in spring

Everyone talks about how important it is to remove the coverings from roses in time. But what does on time mean for your area? Focus on soil conditions. If it has thawed to the point of a shovel, that is, the roots are already freely receiving nutrition and have come to life, you can remove the insulation.

If you open your roses early, then you can freeze the buds of the plant, and if you are late in removing the coverings, your roses may become steamed. However, this will not happen if you cover them with agrofibre.

Beautiful bush of remontant roses

It’s also remarkable because you can remove it layer by layer, leaving one layer at the end, which, like a shirt, will simply retain daytime warmth on cool spring nights. And during the day it will protect the overwintered bark from sunburn at first. Another plus is protection from overdrying.

Roses on the balcony: if your roses spent the winter on the balcony, or you grow them there, then the shelter should be removed a little later, since cold winds can overcool the plants, because the roses are far from the ground. Therefore, balcony roses should remain covered longer. If your balcony is glazed, then you should open the roses during the day, and close them in the evening during periods of unstable temperatures.

Step-by-step removal of coverings from roses

If your shelters are made in traditional style, from roofing felt or thick paper, then in this case you will need remove the cover from your roses step by step.

At the first stage, cut holes on both sides, allow outside air to circulate freely inside. Let the plant get used to the ambient temperature for a day.

At the second stage, we completely free from dense shelter roses, but we definitely do shading instead! It can be made from one layer of paper, fabric, or covering material.

After opening the winter clothes, the roses should check for availability dried shoots , broken and frozen branches. It is better to cut them out immediately with pruning shears. We also remove fallen leaves.

Treatment of the rose grafting site

After the ground has completely thawed, rake away excess soil from rose bushes, if you hilled them in the fall. Some hill up with leaves, straw and the like; all this should be removed from the shoots, carefully, trying not to damage the stem of the rose itself.

Every spring The grafting site or neck of the rose bush must be thoroughly washed a one percent solution of copper sulfate to prevent disease and the development of fungal infections.

Instead of vitriol You can use a solution of potassium permanganate(dilute until bright pink). The procedure is best done using a hard paint brush, I use a 2 cm wide brush.

Treatment of frostbite in roses

If you covered your roses in damp weather in the fall, and then frost immediately hit, then on the trunks, in places where water accumulates, frost holes can be detected. All this can be seen during a spring visual inspection of the shoots.

If the damage to the bark is small, then the wound can be healed, but if it is large and located close to the grafting zone, then it is better to remove such a shoot. Always look at the situation.

The crack should be treated with a one percent solution of copper sulfate, or, as already mentioned, with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, using a brush, and then cover the wound garden varnish.

Be sure to seal all fresh cracks in the bark, this will help prevent the emergence of fungal infections. Fewer fungal and mold spores means healthier roses!

Removing mold from roses

If your shelter was very wet, then after removing it you can find pockets of mold affecting the shoots. It's not so scary, everything can be washed off and dried.

Carry out the processing with the same composition - one percent copper sulfate and potassium permanganate solution. In the future, to prevent mold from appearing, treat the shoots in the fall, before covering them with the same composition.

Treating damping off in roses

Ground cover and climbing roses are most susceptible to damping off.. They most often take refuge on the ground, do not have access to air, but there is always excess moisture. hence the frequent incidence of infectious burns from excess moisture. It's like diaper rash on a baby. And this must be treated!

Such diaper rash can be identified by reddish spots ringing the shoot. They may be dark in the center, you can't go wrong once you see them. As a rule, areas with diaper rash are cut out if they are large.

And if the shoots are slightly affected and there is a chance to save the twig, then the affected area is cleaned down to healthy wood, and then covered with garden varnish.

Spring pruning of roses

Rose pruning diagram

After removing all the shelters, when truly spring weather has already established itself, pruning rose bushes according to the rules, by variety. After pruning, the plants are sprayed with a one percent solution of copper sulfate and watered generously at the root. warm water to put it into operation root system. Roses should also be fed and hilled..

Video - caring for roses after winter

Additionally, I suggest watching a video clip that tells and shows what actions should be taken with roses after winter.

We consider when you can open roses in the spring after winter and how to properly remove the shelter. We describe care in the spring after removing the winter shelter: how to treat it against diseases and pests, pruning and fertilizing.

And also, what problems there may be and how to save roses (reanimation), plus the tricks of experienced flower growers.

It is very important to know when you can open roses in the spring, because their future fate and our mood depend on this.

Early removal of the cover is fraught with damage to the buds by spring frosts, and with late opening, there is a high risk of rot and blackening of the bush (damping off).

That's why, winter shelter It is better to remove roses in spring when the ground has thawed 35-50 cm deep and stable temperatures above zero during the day and light frosts at night have established. Dates for opening roses: approximately April 10-20 (Moscow region, Middle lane).

When to open roses after winter in the Moscow region, Siberia and the Urals?

• Moscow region and central zone: approximately April 10-20.
• Ural: approximately April 15-25.
• Siberia: approximately April 20-30.

Bushes that were covered only with boxes, boxes or spruce branches are also opened at this time.

How to save roses from damping off?

The main danger for roses in spring is not frost, but damping off. Unfortunately, there are situations when even with correct shelter roses for the winter after they open in the spring, after a while the green shoots turn black, wither, and the flower itself dies.

It is the very process of spring opening of roses that is key point for further successful development of flowers, and main reason The death of the plant is damping off. The bush begins to become affected by rot, either due to untimely or improper removal of the winter shelter.

Frozen (black) and frosted (olive) rose shoots in the spring after opening

How to properly remove winter shelter and care for roses in spring

As soon as warm days arrive, roses come out of dormancy, which is expressed by swelling of the buds. At the same time, frozen soil remains under the air-dry shelter, and the roots are still dormant.

Ventilating roses under winter cover

1. As soon as it starts to warm up (beginning - mid-March) and the top of the winter frame shelter is exposed (air-dry method), throw snow on it. And also sprinkle snow on top of the ground cover, climbing or standard rose. Snow protects flowers from day/night temperature changes and also shades them.
2. In mid-March - early April, remove snow from each shelter, and to prevent stagnation of water from melting, make drainage ditches. You definitely need to ventilate the flowers; to do this, open the shelter on both sides for 20-30 minutes, and then leave small gaps on the sides.

   And if the weather is already warm and there is almost no snow left, then you can leave one side open.

3. After 7-10 days (end of March - mid-April) it usually gets noticeably warmer, there is almost no snow and the roses need to be ventilated again and prepared for full opening. Open and leave one or two sides of the shelter for ventilation.
   Climbing, standard, miniature and ground cover species require additional procedure. As a rule, they are covered with soil and covered with sawdust, leaves or spruce branches for the winter, which have become compacted and therefore need to be loosened around the bush. Then cover it again with covering material, but leave a gap at the edges so that they “breathe.”
4. After 5-7 days (beginning - end of April), open the frame shelter on the east or north side.
5. After 2-3 days (beginning - mid-April - Moscow region, Middle zone), open the roses completely and rake the leaves from the ground.
   Trim broken, dead or frost-damaged stems plus dark ends back to healthy green parts (cosmetic pruning).
   Then they are sprayed against diseases and pests, hilled up and shaded with spruce branches (branches of other trees) or thin agrofibre, lutrasil or fabric.
   Shading will help the flower get used to new conditions, save it from sunburn and delayed development (the stems are ready to grow, but the roots are still sleeping in the frozen soil).
6. After 10-15 days (end of April - mid-May), when the risk has passed spring frost, the shading is removed and the main formative pruning of the rose is done (each group has its own rules). By this time, it is more clearly visible which shoots have successfully overwintered and which ones have any problems.
   Then they are re-treated against diseases and pests (copper-containing preparations - copper oxychloride, copper sulfate, etc.).
   Feed (mullein infusion 1:10 – liquid fertilizer or complex mineral fertilizer- scatter on the surface of the ground) and water with warm water (10-15 liters per bush - along with fertilizing).

EXPLANATIONS AND TIPS

• Approximate deadlines are indicated for all CIS countries (Belarus, Kazakhstan, Russia, Ukraine and other countries). And also for regions of the Russian Federation (Moscow region, North-West, Middle zone, Ural, Siberia, Kuban).
  Because even in one climatic zone spring can come every year different time. Especially in last years, there are often abnormal cold snaps or premature warmings with late frosts. Therefore, keep an eye on the weather forecast.
• High humidity under winter shelter leads to the appearance of various fungal diseases and rot, so ventilation is vital.
• Take cover in evening time or on a quiet cloudy day, because Sun rays They can burn the shoots and dry out the wind because they have been in conditions of high humidity for a long time.
• Roses cannot be opened completely at once in the spring, even in warm weather, since there is a high probability of night frosts, and during the day it blows strong wind and the sun is shining.
  Such conditions are unfavorable for overwintered shoots and can lead to drying out or blackening; they need time to adapt to open air after winter shelter.
• If frosts are approaching (often even in May), and the winter shelter is completely removed, then cover the plants with lutrasil, spunbond or agrofibre so that the awakened buds are not damaged. Flower growers in the Moscow region, North-West, Urals and Siberia need to be especially attentive.

SPECIES FEATURES

• Climbing (standard) roses can be lifted onto supports only when stable warmth sets in, so that in case of severe cold weather they can be quickly covered with covering material.
  However, immediately after the shoots begin to grow, the bushes need to be tied up, as the young shoots can then be easily damaged. In addition, they will grow incorrectly and reduce their decorative value.
• It is better to cover the hybrid tea varieties with a film after removing the air-dry winter shelter to protect them from frost in the spring and speed up growth and flowering.

Pruning roses in spring

Try to have time to prune before the buds fully open.

Floribunda and hybrid tea varieties

Shorten the shoots by 1/3. Annual pruning in spring.

Ground cover

These varieties are pruned every 4-5 years to 13-18 cm.

Repairing shrub roses

It is necessary to remove old, frozen shoots, or those growing inward, otherwise the bush will become dense.

Repair climbing roses

Young shoots are shortened to healthy tissue with a white core (3-5 buds), and those older than six years and weak ones are cut off completely.

Treatment of roses in spring against diseases and pests

1. When you dismantle the winter shelter (5th point in the instructions), after cosmetic pruning, completely free the bushes from winter hilling.
   To do this, carefully rake off the soil, especially delicately near the root collar (grafting site).
   Then wipe it with a cloth and rinse with a soft brush (brush) - 1% solution of copper sulfate (10 g per liter of water), iodine (1 ml per 400 ml of water) or potassium permanganate (1 g per 4 liters of water).
2. During the 6th point after the main spring pruning, re-treat against diseases and pests.

• For folk remedies and fungicides, see the article: "". It describes in detail how to treat roses in the spring against diseases and pests.
• In hot and dry spring, you need to carefully monitor the appearance of (,). As soon as you discover them, take action immediately. See the links provided and in the general article: “”.
• Sometimes climbing rose can be affected by diseases near the base of the bush, but from above it will be absolutely healthy. In this situation, you can cut cuttings with 4-5 buds, treat them with growth stimulants and plant them in soil mixture– three buds in the substrate, and two on top. Then cover with a jar or bottle and shade: 40-60% usually take root.

Possible problems with roses in the spring after opening

What to do with frostbites?

When roses open in the spring, their shoots sometimes have frost holes - this is a damaged area on the stem from frozen water that has flowed into a scratch or crack in the bark.

If it is large and right next to the grafting site, the shoot needs to be cut off, but if Not big size, then you can try to cure it.

Wash the crack with a soft brush with a solution of iodine (1 ml per 400 ml of water), potassium permanganate (1 gram per 4 liters of water) or water with copper sulfate(10 g per liter). Cover with garden varnish or apply plantain, and stick a medical plaster on top.

• Frostbite needs to be removed or treated, otherwise there is a high probability of fungal diseases that will eventually affect the entire bush.

Frostbreaker

How to deal with mold on roses? What to do in case of damping off?

After belated removal of the cover, rose shoots are often black with mold. The appearance of mold is greatly promoted by the lack of treatment of the flower in the fall with iron sulfate or copper-containing drugs with added soap for better adhesion.

Bushes that have been pressed to the ground for the winter with shelter made of insulating materials damp out more. The reason is the same - high humidity due to lack of ventilation during the spring thaw or late opening.

Remove the mold and carefully wash the bush with fungicides.

Mold on a rose in the spring after removing the winter cover

Infectious burn

The disease manifests itself with the following symptoms: in the center of the shoot there are reddened areas, gradually darkening and increasing in size.

If detected early, when the spots are small, cut them out to a healthy area of ​​tissue and treat with garlic pulp. Then apply the plantain and stick a medical plaster on top.

If the spot is large and the shoot is ringed, then cut it off immediately to save the bush from the spread of the disease.

Infectious burn on a rose

INTERESTING

Those with the greatest survival rate after frostbite hybrid tea roses. Even if they are frozen to the ground, they are able to quickly send out new shoots due to large quantity spare dormant buds.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

We wish you to open your roses in time in the spring, so that they are healthy and then bloom beautifully!

Helps roses in the garden survive winter successfully shelter, which is usually held in mid-autumn. And in the spring the time comes, when to remove it. Opening roses should be done very carefully, in several stages, since not only frosts are terrible for these gentle creatures, but also the bright spring sun.

Spring is a time of discovery

In printed sources and calendars gardening work they write that it’s time for roses in spring start opening already in March. In the first month of spring, it is recommended to remove covers gradually, mainly in warm but cloudy weather (or in the evening). In April, shelters are completely removed not only from roses, but also from heat-loving shrubs and vines.

In practice (we learn this from videos on YouTube), it turns out that it is better to remove covers from roses in April, and in the middle or at the end of the month. In the first ten days of April, the ground is still quite frozen. Amateur gardeners determine the time when it is time to open roses like this:

• The temperature remains consistently above zero.
• If you stick a shovel into the ground and it goes in like butter, it’s time.

Gardeners advise not to rush into completely removing covers after winter: let better than roses They'll take a nap a little longer before they get sunburned.

In 2018...

Let's look into Moon calendar? « Astrological calendar summer resident for 2018" advises:

• Ventilate shelters of roses and grapes on March 13-14.
• Remove cover from roses and heat-loving plants March 18 – 19, 22 – 23 (at warm weather) and 7 – 8, 14 – 15, 25 – 26 April.

Opening roses in several stages

You need to gradually accustom roses to the warm spring air and sun. It is best to do this on cloudy, windless days or in the evening to protect against sunburn.

1. In the first half of March Snow is removed from winter shelters and drainage grooves are made. It is important that melt water does not stagnate in the rose garden.
2. Late March - April To open roses that have woken up after winter, you need to start from the ends - ventilate the rose garden.
3. After a day, you can open the northern or eastern sides of the shelter.
4. Then the cover is removed completely, leaving a little spruce branches on the bushes (it is needed to shade the roses from the sun's rays, which can be very hot in the spring).

Attention! Flower growers often complain: they opened their roses in the spring, and the bush was healthy. But the next morning it turned black. It's about O sunburn. Do not rush to remove winter shelters entirely. Cover the bushes with spruce branches to create a light shade (spunbond is no longer needed).

After completely removing the covers

Having completely removed the winter shelter, gardeners carefully examine the plants. You need to remove dry leaves and all plant debris from the soil so that the roots can “breathe.” It is very important to carry out cosmetic and sanitary pruning– some shoots may be damaged by frost.

Dead branches are cut out completely. Damaged shoots are cut down to the healthy part so that at least 1 cm remains above the bud. The sections are smeared with garden varnish.

After the soil has completely thawed, the bushes are unearthed, and climbing and standard roses are lifted and secured on supports.

Soil freezing is a widespread phenomenon. Freezing of moisture in the soil, as a rule, occurs at temperatures below 0 o C, since it is not clean water, and the salt solution different concentrations. Therefore, even with low temperatures not all moisture in the soil freezes. Strongly bound moisture and some part of loosely bound moisture cannot freeze due to the influence of sorption forces on them. The rest of the moisture, up to the moisture corresponding to the maximum hygroscopicity, freezes within -10 ° C.

The depth of soil freezing depends on many reasons. The most important of them is the thickness of the snow cover. The larger it is, the shallower the depth of soil freezing. Everything that affects the thickness of the snow cover (thickness of vegetation cover, microrelief, etc.) affects the depth of soil freezing. It depends on the presence of peat and its thickness, on soil moisture. The greater the thickness of the peat and the higher the soil moisture, the shallower the freezing depth.

Soil freezing usually begins with the onset of stable negative temperatures before snow cover forms. Sometimes snow cover is established before temperatures below 0 o C and soil freezing begins already under a thin snow cover. Subsequently, the thickness of the frozen layer gradually increases, reaching its greatest value at the end of January - in February.

In February or from the beginning of March, when the snow cover is still very thick or even growing, the freezing depth begins to decrease due to thawing of the soil below. Thawing of the soil under the snow occurs due to the heat located in the lower horizons of the soil and transferred due to thermal conductivity to its upper layers. This transfer occurs continuously, but at the beginning and middle of winter it cannot compensate for the loss of heat emitted from under the thin snow cover and released into the very cool atmosphere. At the end of winter, when air temperatures become higher and the snow cover is thicker and, therefore, heat loss is reduced, the heat coming from the lower layers of the soil, more than compensating for the loss from the upper layers, causes the soil below to thaw.

According to N.A. Kachinsky, thawing can occur in two ways.

1. Thawing from below ends before the snow melts. The frozen layer will disappear at the very surface of the soil. This case occurs when there is heavy snow cover and shallow freezing of the soil.

2. The snow cover melts before the soil completely thaws. Thawing of the soil also begins from below, and then proceeds simultaneously from above and below, and the frozen layer eventually disappears at one depth or another.

For areas where the average annual soil temperature is close to 0 o C and below, the third option for soil thawing is typical - only from above, since here in the deep layers of the soil there is no heat reserve that could cause thawing of the soil from below.

Forests have a special influence on the depth of snow cover. In a forest, the snow cover is always thicker than in treeless areas. Therefore, freezing of the soil under the forest is either not observed at all, or it occurs for less time and less deeply, and the soil has time to thaw even before the snow begins to melt. Due to this, as well as the slower melting of snow, the absorption of melt water by the soil in the forest is much more complete than outside it.

Forest litter has a great influence on the depth of soil freezing. In experiments with the removal of forest litter, the depth of soil freezing increased sharply. Significantly affects the depth of freezing and the composition of the forest stand. In dense spruce stands, where a significant amount of snow is retained on the tree crowns, due to the lower thickness of the snow cover and its greater density, the freezing depth is always greater.

Soil freezing has a number of unfavorable consequences, in particular: a decrease in soil water permeability, and therefore an increase in surface runoff, a decrease in heat supply, freezing of plants, and a delay in microbiological and chemical processes occurring in the soil. At the same time, one can note the positive consequences of this process, in particular, beneficial influence on the formation of structure in the soil, the migration of soil animals to the lower layers of the soil under the influence of freezing, helping to loosen the soil and improve its water permeability.

The sun is getting brighter, and the tits are shading merrily. coltsfoot blooms on the thawed hills.

Snowdrops bloomed in the first thawed patches. in a word, spring has come - a busy time for gardeners.

As agreed, let's talk about how and when to open our favorite roses

It's time, my friend, it's time

If you spent the whole winter winter apartments, then now is the time to visit the site, check the roses, which, like prisoners in a dungeon, are waiting for their release. My fellow gardeners often ask me, when should I open them? I don’t have a ready answer to this; it all depends on the heavenly office. It's no secret that our springs have become protracted; April is often colder than March. We need to look at the weather. Even if the snow has melted, there is a high risk of return frosts.

In addition, the earth must thaw completely, then the roots of the plants will begin to work. Otherwise, roses may die from the drying effects of wind and sunburn.

Some gardeners, to speed up the thawing process, spill soil around the roses. hot water. Of course, you can run around the area with a teapot if you have a dozen roses, but if you have one and a half hundred, like me, then this is not possible. Therefore, I rely on the forces of nature and the inevitability of the onset of heat.

One thing I know for sure is that you shouldn’t rush to open roses. Maybe open the ends of the shelters to ventilate them. If your roses overwintered under lutrasil, which allows light and air to pass through, they can stay there even until the May holidays. It’s another matter if they start to bloom leaves in such a shelter (in the warmth and in the sun) - then you need to open it urgently! This means that the ground has finally thawed and the plant roots have begun to work. In the meantime, the ground is frozen, it’s not worth opening. Plants pampered after winter may turn black from the sun and wind.

The main principle is gradualism. You can first open, as already mentioned, the ends, then remove one layer of cover, providing better air access. And only a few days later, choosing cloudy weather (this is important!), remove the cover completely. But do not remove the fabric completely; it may still be needed if suddenly the icy breath of the north breaks through into our latitudes again.

Next, the roses need to be untied so that they come to their senses a little, “straighten their backs and shoulders.” Then carry out an inspection - check the condition of your pets, assess the degree of damage and the results of wintering. Branches that have become overgrown and affected by infectious burns must be cut out immediately. This should be done without regret. Experience has shown that damaged shoots will be of no use, even if they look relatively alive. They will develop with difficulty, are unlikely to bloom, and will only draw strength from the rose. And do not try, as is sometimes advised in manuals, to treat them with brilliant green, some ointments, applying a plantain leaf, etc. All this, as they say, is wasted effort.

By ridding the plant of diseased shoots, you make room for new growth. After all, a rose, like no other shrub (and this is a shrub!), has an amazing regenerative ability. This means that it can produce new shoots, each time rejuvenating and being reborn, like a phoenix bird. For the same reason, you should not uproot those specimens that do not show signs of life after wintering. Wait until mid-June. There have been cases in my practice when, inconsolable from an untimely loss, I was rewarded for my patience. The roses that had died were reborn, delighting me with young growth.

The art of pruning roses in spring

Now a little about spring pruning and its timing. I have found that it is much more effective to prune roses at the stage when their leaves begin to bloom. In this case, the strong buds are clearly visible, and it is on them that you need to cut, cutting off everything on top. You need to cut at an angle of 45° to the outer bud. A huge amount of literature has been published on the topic of pruning roses. But each time the approach must be individual, depending on the group to which this or that rose belongs, its age, health and condition.

A gardener pruning roses must first of all have a sharp pruning shears and a steady hand. A well-sharpened tool will not chew the stems, and the cut will remain clean. And the hand must be firm, because, without flinching, it is necessary to remove all unnecessary things. You shouldn’t lament over every branch, naively believing that they all mean something to the plant. The rose produces a lot of thin and unproductive shoots, that is, those that will never bloom. But at the same time they take away extra strength from the bush. Therefore, I am guided by the “pencil rule”, that is, I cut out absolutely all branches, especially at the bottom of the bush, which are thinner than a pencil.

General rules for spring pruning

Spring pruning varies greatly between groups of roses.

Hybrid teas and floribundas have already been pruned in the fall for cover, so only perform sanitary pruning on them. Park roses do not prune at all, just like groundcovers. For climbing ramblers that bloom once a summer, remove only the frozen tops. They are pruned in the summer after flowering, removing the oldest shoots per ring, leaving only 5 - 7 relatively young branches.

It is recommended to shorten the so-called semi-climbing climbers by 1/3 to stimulate the growth of new young shoots and more abundant flowering. Don’t try to re-educate them - it must be admitted that you will never get a lush, spreading bush from a climber.

Radical pruning harms them; they will come to their senses until mid-summer, sending out new shoots and being late in flowering. If you wish abundant flowering, try bending them horizontally.

It will not be possible to do this with some, since many varieties of this group have rather hard, inflexible stems. It is better to try to make a kind of “standard rose” from them: having removed all the excess from below, leave only a clean trunk, crowned with a lush flowering cap. Those shoots that bend at least somehow are best wrapped around a support - arches, obelisks, columns. In this case, they will send out a lot of additional branches, each of which will bloom!

As for the “English women”, it is better not to subject young two- to three-year-old specimens to heavy pruning, so they will bloom faster and will not waste energy on the formation of new growth. But bushes of a more mature age can be trimmed by 1/3 or even half. It is recommended to do this at least in order to stimulate the growth of new, so-called basal, shoots - the most valuable ones that determine the skeleton of the bush.

Proper pruning of roses, carried out strictly from year to year, will allow you to create a harmonious and beautiful bush, resembling a bowl in shape, where the branches do not compete with each other for the sun's rays, and the flowers are located along the periphery of the crown.

Safety precautions

Pruning roses is a traumatic event. No matter how hard you try, you will get scratched. And the wounds received will have to be healed until mid-June.

Therefore, you need special equipment - clothes made of dense, tear-resistant material (roses cling tightly, you can’t get out!) and special gloves, preferably made of thick suede.

We can easily make similar ones by sewing a bell cut from tarpaulin or other dense fabric to ordinary suede gloves.

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