Planting and caring for paniculata hydrangea in open ground.

Even on a very large garden plot It is impossible not to notice the flower bed decorated with large and colorful hydrangea caps. This is wonderful beautiful plant It is so captivating to look at that you simply cannot pass by it. There are more than 35 species of hydrangeas, among which there are varieties that grow well and winter in the Urals and Siberia. But no matter what latitude of our country your garden is located, before buying a beauty, you need to study all the features of its planting, care and cultivation.

Garden hydrangea: photos, types, varieties

Most types of hydrangea are shrubs, but vines and small trees are also found. They all have beautiful large or small leaves, and flowers collected in paniculate or corymbose inflorescences. All inflorescences are located at the tips of the shoots and have sterile or fertile flowers. Most often their color can be white, pink or blue.

Among them it is grown as perennials in the gardens middle zone In Russia there are only tree and paniculate hydrangeas.

Hydrangea tree - photo

The shrub, growing up to one and a half meters in height, has large oval leaves, the length of which reaches 20 cm. The slightly pubescent leaf plates are distinguished by a heart-shaped notch at the base and jagged edges. They are green above and bluish below. Large sterile and small fertile flowers are collected in corymbose inflorescences, which bloom in the first half of July.

Most suitable for planting in the garden the following varieties of tree hydrangea:

1. The White House variety is a bush with a height of one to one and a half meters. At the ends of its shoots, large shield-shaped inflorescences are formed, consisting of snow-white sterile and creamy-white fertile flowers.
2. The variety "Invincibelle Spirit" grows up to 0.9-1.2 m. Its large inflorescences consist of sterile flowers. At first they are bright pink in color, and over time they fade to light pink.
3. The Incrediball variety is a bush that reaches a height of 1.2-1.5 m and has large spherical white inflorescences.
4. The Hayes Starburst variety is a low bush with thin shoots that can break under the weight of large inflorescences. The inflorescences, consisting of double flowers, reach 25 cm in diameter.
5. The Annabelle variety blooms with white sterile flowers that form large inflorescences with a diameter of up to 25 cm.

Hydrangea paniculata - varieties, photos

Paniculate hydrangea differs from tree hydrangea in inflorescences, which consist of large sterile and small fertile flowers, and grow up to 20-25 cm in length. During flowering they can change color. For the first days, the flower petals are white, after a while they acquire a pink tint, and by the end of flowering they turn green. The large leaves of paniculate species are ovoid or elliptical in shape. They are heavily pubescent below and slightly pubescent above.

Garden varieties bloom from June to July and bloom for a long time. Among them are:

Features of growing garden hydrangea

Those who decide to grow hydrangea in their garden plot need to follow certain rules its planting, placement and care. It should be remembered that only tree-like and paniculate hydrangeas grow in Siberia.

Planting and care

The plant loves well-lit places with slight shading. In sunny areas, hydrangeas grow well and bloom quickly, but due to excessive heat they suffer from drying out of the soil and lose their turgor. Small inflorescences form in full shade.

The soil for planting shrubs must be acidic. On alkaline soil plant will suffer from chlorosis and bloom poorly. Neutral soil for hydrangea is unacceptable.

Hydrangeas planted on nutritious loams will take root well and grow. Therefore, during planting, it is recommended to add clay to the bottom of the hole.

Hydrangea is a moisture-loving plant, however, in areas with high level groundwater It is not recommended to plant it. In addition, the wintering of the shrub directly depends on the moisture intake of the plant roots. The less moisture they accumulate in the fall, the better plant will overwinter. That is why in the fall the soil around the bushes must be partially covered from precipitation.

Landing garden hydrangea produced in spring in pits approx. the dimensions of which should be 50x50x70 cm. The plant is planted after the last frost has passed.

Store-bought plants with a closed root system can be planted until the end of summer, preparing deeper and wider holes for them. After planting, the bushes are well watered, and the soil around them is covered 6 cm with sawdust or peat mulch.

The distance between plants should be from one to one and a half meters. If the group planting was conceived as a “living” hedge, then the bushes are planted more densely.

Watering and fertilizing

During the season in open ground The bushes are watered once a week. In hot months, the frequency of watering increases to 2 times a week.

Caring for hydrangea includes mandatory feeding, which are produced twice a year:

1. In May or June, during the budding period, the plant is fed with nitrogen fertilizers.
2. In summer, the bushes need potassium, which is added according to the instructions.

It is better not to apply ash under hydrangea bushes, as it reduces the acidity of the soil.

When caring for hydrangeas, you need to be especially careful when pruning the bush. Pruning is carried out every spring. Some gardeners cut the bushes very short, as a result of which the most flower buds. You can't do this. It is recommended to approach each bush individually.

First of all, the frozen parts of the shoots are cut out from the plant. If after this there are enough powerful shoots left, then last year’s branches can be cut back to the upper branch. If there is a small number of annual shoots, only inflorescences are removed from faded branches.

Shoots that are too old and thicken the bush are completely cut out. It is not recommended to cut out annual shoots at all. It is worth noting that inflorescences for bouquets can be cut throughout the entire period until autumn.

What can I do to make hydrangea change color?

Experienced flower growers know that by feeding bushes with pink inflorescences with certain fertilizers, the result can be a plant blooming blue or blue flowers . To do this, starting in September, the following is added to the soil once every two weeks:

• aluminum alum solution (2 pieces per 1 liter of water);
• iron or aluminum sulfate (20-50 g).

If fertilizers are applied irregularly, both blue and pink inflorescences will begin to form on the bush.

Preparing hydrangea for winter

Unfortunately, without shelter in the Urals and Siberia, hydrangea will not be able to survive the winter. Therefore, caring for it in regions with cold winters includes preparing the bushes for wintering.

Before covering the plants, it is necessary to feed them with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and remove all leaves from them, leaving only the top ones. This will help speed up the process of lignification of the shoots.

Paniculata and tree hydrangea grown in southern regions, you can just hill up high or cover with peat. For regions with unpredictable and cold winters, you can choose one of the following methods:

When growing hydrangea, you should know that every year it winter hardiness increases. Therefore, in some regions, over time, covering bushes for the winter can be abandoned. But young plants must be covered.

Diseases and pests of garden hydrangea

The plant is resistant to diseases and pests, however, may be affected:

The most beautiful hydrangea plant is excellent suitable for singles and group plantings , goes well with low conifers and looks great against the background of stones. At correct landing and caring for her, admiring magnificent flowering and you can be proud of your flower garden all summer until autumn.

Garden hydrangea

Planting garden hydrangea and caring for it have their own characteristics. To admire the beautiful and lush flowering, we will learn how to properly care for this plant.

Garden hydrangea - types and varieties

Types and varieties of this ornamental shrub a bunch of. Most of them prefer to grow in partial shade, but there are some that do well in sunny areas. The height of the bushes and the flowering period vary greatly and depend on the variety.

The most common types:

• Large-leaved. It blooms in the second half of summer with lush inflorescences in the form of balls. Flowers can have different shades. Height – 2 m. Requires shelter in winter, tolerates maximum temperatures up to - 10°C
• Chereshkova. A type of vine. Blooms with white and pink inflorescences. Requires support, otherwise it will crawl along the ground. A good option for gazebos and arches.
• Tree-like. The flowers are snow-white. Height - up to 3 m. It looks very impressive, but freezes in winter. The advantage is that the plant recovers quickly. Requires heavy spring pruning.
• Paniculata. It blooms from July to late autumn with dense panicles 30 cm long. The shade of the inflorescences varies from white to greenish. The height of the bush is 3-4 m. An unpretentious and frost-resistant variety.

Based on these species, many have been created different varieties, each of which is beautiful in its own way. Depending on the type, hydrangeas can be deciduous or evergreen, but in our area they are most often grown in the first variant.

Features of cultivation

Interestingly, the shade of the inflorescences can be adjusted independently by adding certain fertilizers to the soil. On neutral soil, the flowers will have a beige or cream tint. Soil with high content alkalis give flowers a pink or lilac color, acids give them a blue color.

Very important for shrubs bright lighting, but the scorching rays of the sun are destructive for him, as well as deep shadow. Therefore, it is best to plant a flower where there is shade at lunchtime and sun the rest of the time.

It is important not to overfeed seedlings with organic matter. They will grow green mass, but are unlikely to bloom.

Planting in open ground

Hydrangea is a demanding flower. Therefore, before landing, you need to carefully think through all the nuances.

Preparing the site and soil

The planting site must be prepared in advance - about 2 weeks. The soil should be acidic and well moistened. Acidity can be adjusted independently using special preparations. Depending on the variety, flowers can grow in partial shade or sun. The best place for planting - light partial shade; plants will not bloom in strong shade.

We describe planting and caring for hydrangea in spring and autumn (tree-like, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the location, soil, planting rules and step by step instructions, as well as watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Urals, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangea in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth

The plant is heat-loving, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Landing location

Hydrangea (all types) – light-loving plant, it grows well in sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong wind should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she really likes it diffuse light.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade; in this case, it blooms later with fewer flowers. Availability is very important sun rays in the morning, in the first half of the day. Therefore, the eastern side is better suited than the western side.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich soils. clay soils. It develops worse on red soils, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimal acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral there is slow development and pale coloring.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of leaves). When a bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron objects (nails, a jar, a horseshoe).

When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.

Soil mixture

Compound: humus, turf soil, leaf soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil(chernozem), peat and sand – 2:2:1:1. And also nutrients: 20-25 g (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 g of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 g of superphosphate (150-250 g of bone meal).

If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil under them. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without applying fertilizers during planting.

Complete ban on lime, chalk and wood ash.

Landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate - 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row ( hedge, “mixborder”), then you can dig a trench 90-110 cm wide.

If you want to achieve earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.

Planting pit

Depth – 36-45, width – 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

Planting depth

The root collar should be located at soil level, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

1. Dig a hole the right size 15-30 days before planting.
2. Prepare the soil mixture and fill the planting hole.
3. Dig a hole and place the seedling on a cone of soil mixture at the desired depth and straighten the roots. Gradually fill the hole and compact the soil.
4. Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
5. Cover the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or autumn?

The best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in cold climates is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Caring for hydrangea after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut off the inflorescences at the bud (pea) stage. And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and above-ground parts, which will provide more high-quality flowering in subsequent years.

• Watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Caring for garden hydrangea: growing secrets

Caring for a flower consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the tree trunk for greater moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or wood chips in a 7-8 cm layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.

Top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed them for the first two years. General rule fertilize until July with acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October with potassium-phosphorus ( bone flour, superphosphate).

The plant's need for nutrients oh so tall, how quickly it grows and blooms powerfully.

1. Complex nutrition for growth. In early - mid-May, feed with complex mineral fertilizer– 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 g) of urea + 25-30 g of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 g) of potassium sulfate.
   Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic fertilizers: mullein infusion or bird droppings– 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
2. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizer for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June) liquid fertilizer: dissolve 65-75 g of superphosphate and 41-49 g of potassium sulfate in water and water the bush.
3. During flowering. Repeat the previous feeding at the time of mass flowering to prolong it and ensure the formation of new flower buds.

• It is not recommended to use it for feeding wood ash. Fertilizers are good for heather species and rhododendron.
• Avoid excess nitrogen, which leads to reduced winter hardiness, poor flowering and promotes the development of rot. Apply only in April - May.
• Important! An excess of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, manure), will do more harm than a deficiency.

Watering hydrangea

The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated; lack of sufficient moisture leads to impaired development.

Dry and hot weather water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if there is a rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.

Lack of moisture in the fall reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in the fall, additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water is best for irrigation.

Water better in the morning or in the evening near the tree trunk, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Proper pruning of hydrangea: spring and autumn

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in spring can only be done from 3-4 summer age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved (garden), prickly, serrated, oak-leaved, Sargent and petiolate hydrangea)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and require sanitary and cosmetic pruning. Optimal time prunings - as soon as the buds have swollen a little, there is no active movement of juices, plus such pruned shoots can be rooted. Let's use the example of garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophila) cannot be pruned, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch older than 3 years, especially those growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving more decorative form improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

Exception: modern varieties from the “Forever and ever”, “You&Me” series, as well as the “MiniPenny” variety, which blooms on the shoots of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past winter.

• Petiolate hydrangea is lightly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree-like and paniculate)

These species, which bloom on young shoots (current season), are pruned every year before the buds open. Best time: mid-late March (as soon as the snow has melted). Annual formative pruning is required, since if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

1. Hydrangea tree is the first to wake up. The shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative shape of the bush, shoots that are weak and growing inward are pruned.
2. Hydrangea paniculata needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Adviсe

• To thin out the bush, remove completely every year old, weak and inward-growing shoots.
• Trim frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

An old bush can be easily rejuvenated with special trimming: cut all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level (“under the stump”) or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring Young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative appearance of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?

In the fall, faded inflorescences of hydrangeas must be cut off so that the branches do not break under the weight of snow.

Standard form

Hydrangea paniculata can be grown as a tree - a low standard. Choose one of the most developed shoots biennial plant grown from apical cuttings, and cut off the rest. Then prune this shoot to the strongest bud every year in the spring until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form a crown in subsequent years, pinch the top of the shoot, and new shoots are removed completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of the standard form of paniculata hydrangea

Caring for hydrangea in autumn and preparing for winter

After flowering, caring for hydrangea in the fall consists of removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

• Tree hydrangea does not need to be covered for the winter; mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
• In the conditions of the Middle Zone, the Moscow region, the North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up large-leaved hydrangea, replant it in pots and bring it into the house.
  Because the this type can be grown in areas where the winter temperature is not lower than -23.5 °C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties, mentioned in the “trimming” section.
• In more southern and warmer areas, you can get by with hilling and mulching.

Preparing for winter and covering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping off.

Because leaves and flowers large leaf hydrangea die from light frosts at night; preparations for winter begin in mid-late October (after the first frost).

• Garden paniculata and large-leaved hydrangea must be covered for the winter.

1. To do this, the bush is covered with earth, and the tree trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, pine needles or peat.
2. Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And a box (box) is placed on top of the bush.
3. After graduation spring frosts(April) winter shelter disassemble and do trimming.
4. It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter over it (“hut”) 8-12 cm higher than it and pour dry leaves inside it.

Preparing hydrangea for winter

During short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.

Shelter for large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

1. In the fall, before night frosts arrive, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, the flower will begin to rot. Leave only the flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
2. Tie all the branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic band, tights, strips of fabric).
3. Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal brackets (electrodes, thick wire). You need to bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties they become very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
4. Before the start of cold weather (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material(burlap, agrofibre).
5. Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the cover and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leaf soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled with very little.
6. Place arcs over the plant and pull the covering material again, and place a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not pruned, but are simply brought into the house for the winter in pots or covered with earth and additionally covered for the winter with an 11-16 cm layer of peat, dry leaves, pine needles or sawdust.

When can you open hydrangeas after winter?

In the spring you need to remove the winter cover from the hydrangea the right time to prevent damping off of the shoots.

1. In mid-March, remove the film and covering material, rake out the peat or soil and cover again with burlap.
2. In early April, when the night frosts end and stable warmth sets in, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

Approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.

Winter hardiness of hydrangea

Now large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in central Russia and in the Moscow region, the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to different microclimates.

The plant can withstand temperatures down to -23 °C, and the most winter-hardy are tree, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.

The plant's winter hardiness increases if it receives a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected powdery mildew, spider mite and aphids (usually in closed ground).

Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?

We will list the most common reasons for the lack of flowering.

1. Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially organic fertilizers Flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during the active growing season (April - May).
2. Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter cold, and if excessive pruning occurs, they are sometimes removed. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to prune it correctly - the “Pruning” section.
3. Excessive direct sunlight. Diffused light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, flowering deteriorates and is shortened.

How to speed up hydrangea flowering?

To make the bush bloom faster, spray it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg/liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more widespread and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g/10 liters of water). To change color, you need to carry out 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, they begin to water 50-70 days before flowering.

After this, white or pink flowers(slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use it carefully. The price of 100 grams of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

• If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie into small bundles and hang with flowers down in a dark place to dry.
• Hydrangea can be grown at home as a potted plant. In the fall it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and moved to a cool place (+4-6), and in late February - early March it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out open air and leave until September.
• Experts advise planting in a tree trunk circle. ground cover species: sedum, mossy saxifrage and others.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

We wish that flowers lift your spirits and make you a little happier!

Since Hydrangea paniculata is shade-tolerant, it does not need full sun all day. A place with good lighting in the morning and evening, and during the day covered with diffused shadow from tall trees or buildings, is suitable. It’s not bad if the plant is covered from the north by a blank fence or hedge. But, under no circumstances should you place it in a permanent shadow or sunny place, the flower will not grow there.

Even in small garden there is a corner where little grows due to the acidic soil. Plant a hydrangea there that loves such soil. The plant reacts sensitively to the composition of the soil, changing the shade of the inflorescences to bright hues with low acidity and coloring their buds in dark shades with increased acidity.

Hydrangea paniculata can serve as an excellent background for other shrubs or be an accent in the foreground of formal plantings. It gets along well next to spirea, barberry, rhododendron and mock orange. And the partnership of hydrangea with pines, thujas and junipers is considered a classic; they need the same soil. Traditional herbaceous neighbors: hosta, heuchera, irises, daylilies and phlox.

The most suitable soil for hydrangea is with weak or medium acidity. The soil is prepared from equal parts of peat, turf, humus and sand. If the amount of lime in the soil is exceeded, the plant will often get sick.

Planting hydrangea better in spring, but it is possible in the fall with obligatory shelter trunk circle in winter. Before planting, the branches of a large bush are pruned and the roots are shortened.

Depending on the composition of the soil, the color of the inflorescences may change: in slightly alkaline soils the color becomes pink-red, in acidic soils it becomes bluish-blue.

There is no need to dig deep; for a superficial root system, 40 cm is enough, but in diameter landing pit should be at least 80 cm. At the bottom, make a mound of well-pressed soil, consisting of equal parts of dug up soil, peat, and sand.

Do not plant hydrangea next to shrubs that have similar surface root system, they may not have enough useful substances in the ground.

Having placed a hydrangea seedling on a hillock, check the location of the root collar flush with the ground.

The soil is poured into the hole, constantly watered, then there will be no voids and the soil will stick tightly to the roots.

The planted shrub is mulched with leaves mixed with pine needles, which retain moisture and subsequently provide acidic nutrition, gradually rotting. Paniculata hydrangea can grow in one place for a long time, mature plant It is not recommended to replant.

Fertilizing hydrangea paniculata in spring and watering

The first feeding is done in June potassium fertilizer when the hydrangea has just woken up (spoon on a bucket). Water not under the trunk, but around the perimeter. The second feeding coincides with the beginning of bud setting - three spoons complex fertilizer. During the rainy season, the granules are simply embedded in the ground under the bush. When flowering has passed, add one tablespoon of phosphorus and potassium.

Hydrangea loves moisture, water it weekly, generously (3-4 buckets per adult bush), if the soil is mulched with peat, then watering is done less often. It is preferable to use rainwater, too hard tap water is acidified with potassium permanganate or vinegar. It is not recommended to loosen the soil - lumpy roots grow superficially and are easily damaged.

Diseases and pests avoid paniculate hydrangea. The only trouble is leaf chlorosis, which often occurs when the soil is not acidic enough or with frequent watering. tap water containing lime. The disease manifests itself in yellowing of the leaves, while the veins on them remain green. To prevent disease, add to the soil inkstone or ferrophyte.

The disease cannot be allowed to spread – the branches will become fragile, the inflorescences will become crushed and spoiled. Chlorosis is combated by first applying potassium nitrate (twice with a week's break), then the plant is fed with iron salts or complex fertilizer.

Pruning hydrangea paniculata in spring

The shoots of young hydrangea are pruned by about a third when planting. Sanitary pruning in the spring, until the buds swell warm weather, removing broken and frozen branches with a sharp pruner.

An adult hydrangea bush is pruned to create a specific shape. On old plants, branches that are directed into the crown and do not produce growth are removed. Rejuvenating pruning returns the hydrangea to abundant and rich flowering.

In late autumn, so that the branches are less likely to break from the snow, you can remove wilted brushes by cutting them off with small parts of the stems. Many people deliberately leave buds, which look spectacular in the winter garden.

Hydrangea is easy to propagate vegetative way: cuttings or layering (pin a branch to the ground in the spring and monitor the humidity). Stems for cuttings are prepared during the appearance of buds. The top with the flower ovary is cut off, and the remaining green part is divided into pieces with 2-3 paired leaves.

Remove the lower leaves from the cuttings.

At the top leaf blades cut in half.

Place the cuttings in a root former solution for several hours or simply sprinkle the tips of the stems with this powder.

Then the cuttings are stuck into a damp mixture of peat and sand, at a distance of 10 cm, at a temperature of 18-20 degrees. In the first 7-10 days, the cuttings are sprayed with a spray bottle 3 times a day, the rest of the time it is enough to moisten them 1-2 times a day.

After 1-1.5 months, the cuttings take root and are transplanted into larger pots with peat along with soil.

When the air temperature becomes constantly positive, the bushes are planted in open ground, in holes into which 0.8-1 kg of peat is added.

Hydrangea cuttings must be pinched 2 weeks before or 2 weeks after planting in open ground.

Before autumn frosts, the seedlings are protected with non-woven material, and for the winter they install a frame and cover them with spruce branches. Next spring, paniculata hydrangea is planted in containers or directly in place.

IN spring period, the cover is removed gradually. After the snow has melted, periodically open the plant for ventilation. After the snow has melted, the plant is first opened slightly, and only then the cover is removed completely.