Do-it-yourself aerated concrete laying technology. Step-by-step laying of aerated concrete

For the construction of private low-rise buildings today, a variety of materials are used, which must meet certain criteria. This is a relatively low cost, simple installation, reliability and strength of the wall, good thermal insulation properties. One such building material that meets most of the requirements is aerated concrete.

The laying of aerated concrete blocks is carried out according to certain rules; special glue is used to attach individual elements. In some cases, reinforcement is required, which is performed using steel rods. Aerated concrete is produced in the form of blocks convenient for construction, which look like large light bricks of gray or white. There is a special tongue-and-groove lock on the end sides of the blocks, which makes installation so reliable and uncomplicated.

Technology for laying aerated concrete blocks

Laying aerated concrete blocks with glue during low-rise construction is done relatively quickly. Before starting work, you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

• aerated concrete blocks selected type and size (today manufacturers offer materials that will be most suitable for specific purposes);
• dry mixture for mixing glue;
• building level;
• rubber mallet;
• mooring line;
• hacksaw or saw for cutting blocks;
• container for mixing glue;
• a drill with a construction mixer attachment for stirring the mixture;
• galvanized nails;
• hammer;
• plane;
• electric or manual wall chaser for reinforcement;
• reinforcing metal rods with a diameter of 8-10 cm;
• trowels;
• brushes to remove all dust from the grooves for reinforcement;
• construction wooden corner.

Blocks must be unpacked before laying, pallets should be placed near the construction site. For work, it is best to use a special glue that has the necessary qualities. The thickness of the seam in this case will be 2-3 mm, and cold bridges simply will not form. It is undesirable to use ordinary cement mortar, since its consumption is approximately 2 times greater, the seams are too thick, which leads to a deterioration in thermal insulation properties.

Before using an aerated concrete block for construction, it is necessary to install special beacon blocks. They are placed at the junction points, along the perimeter of the wall. These blocks are used for leveling; a special mooring cord is pulled over them to make it possible to control the evenness of the masonry. To fasten the cord, ordinary galvanized nails are used; they are driven into the masonry seams at the height and base of the foundation of the first row.

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Mixing the solution

It is recommended to lay aerated concrete blocks using a special glue; cement mortar is almost never used for a number of reasons. For stirring, you need to prepare a special container, a drill with an attachment. To mix the glue, use dry ready mix and water at room temperature.

Mixing is carried out until the composition becomes homogeneous. It must be used within 15 minutes, so a small portion is mixed. As you use the glue, you need to stir it periodically to ensure it maintains its uniformity. If construction work will be carried out in the cold season, then it is necessary to use a special masonry mortar. It has antifreeze additives, which allows it not to lose its properties even at sub-zero temperatures.

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Preparation of blocks, marking

Laying walls made of aerated concrete blocks begins with preparing and marking the material. Markings must be made along the axes of all openings and wall junctions. Next, the blocks are removed from the pallet, delivered to the laying area, and laid out along the marked axes.

During dressing, incomplete blocks are used that will be adjacent to the corners. Therefore, it is first necessary to cut such blocks. This is not so difficult to do; cutting is carried out with an electric saw, an ordinary band saw or a hacksaw.

To ensure that all cut elements are even, you must use a special marking square. The blocks that will be reinforced also require preparation.

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Laying aerated concrete blocks

The technology for laying aerated concrete is simple, but all stages of the work must be carefully followed. In this case, the work will be completed quickly, and the aerated concrete wall will acquire the required qualities. First you need to prepare the blocks and glue for masonry. For the first row, reinforcement is used, so special grooves are cut in the upper part of the blocks into which reinforcement rods and a layer of glue will be placed. Glue is also applied to the end parts, after which adjacent blocks are pressed tightly against each other. The composition is distributed over the surface with a toothed comb. The size of the comb teeth should be approximately 4-5 mm. The glue is applied in a layer of 3 mm.

The walls are laid with obligatory ligation, and each block must be shifted by a distance equal to approximately half of one element.

It is impossible to carry out work without bandaging, as this will negatively affect the quality and strength of the wall.

During work, mortar may come out of the seams; it must not be rubbed in; it should be carefully removed immediately with a trowel. To make the masonry even, you need to use a cord. It stretches from one corner to the other. The evenness of the rows is checked by the building level and the rule, the corners are checked by a building wooden square.

Do not forget about waterproofing, since aerated concrete is susceptible to negative influence moisture. Waterproofing is mandatory in places adjacent to the foundation, ground floor and first floor, basement. After laying, the walls cannot be left unprotected for a long time, since the material is susceptible to changes under the influence of ultraviolet rays, rain, and wind. It is necessary to begin insulation as quickly as possible and facade work. If this is not possible for a number of reasons, then the walls must be closed plastic film until work continues.

Rules for laying aerated concrete blocks.
First row
The base for laying aerated concrete blocks must be level. The difference in the relative elevations of the highest and lowest points of the base should not exceed the maximum recommended thickness of the adhesive joint. If the difference in elevations and/or the curvature and local unevenness of the base for laying aerated concrete blocks exceeds 5 mm, the first row of masonry should not be laid on a thin-layer adhesive, but on a mortar that allows making a masonry joint required thickness. The thickness of the leveling mortar layer should not exceed 20 mm.
When laying the first row of aerated concrete blocks on the base, cut-off horizontal waterproofing should be installed. Rolled materials can be used as such waterproofing bituminous materials, mastics, waterproofing solutions based on dry building mixtures and other applicable solutions.

Please note that aerated concrete walls do not require the construction of the first rows of masonry ceramic bricks. This recommendation was contained in the Soviet-era LENZNIIEP catalog “Low-rise buildings made of cellular concrete” (L.-1989 P. 176) and was justified by the “protection of aerated concrete from splashes from precipitation.” Brickwork does not provide any additional strength or “protection from cracks” to aerated concrete masonry. The maximum deformations of the base leading to cracks in walls made of aerated concrete and brick are the same and amount to 2-2.5 mm/m.

Laying of aerated concrete blocks begins from the corners of the building and continues in completed rows. The installation of each aerated concrete block is checked in horizontal and vertical planes. It is convenient to control the height of a row of aerated concrete blocks using a mooring cord stretched over the loads.

At the corners of the building, it is recommended to install template stands with plumb lines to control the verticality of the corners of aerated concrete masonry. Upon completion of the laying of the next row, its surface is leveled with a plane or grater to eliminate differences between adjacent blocks. The polished surface of aerated concrete blocks is dust-free and moistened with water.

The thickness of the adhesive seams should be 0.5 - 3 mm, the average seam thickness is assumed to be 2 mm. On the horizontal surfaces of aerated concrete blocks, seams, the adhesive mixture must be applied with a serrated tool in a continuous layer without breaks so that when installing the next block, excess glue is squeezed out. The aerated concrete block is lowered to adhesive layer vertically to avoid horizontal block displacements. The position of the block is adjusted using blows with a rubber mallet. Excess adhesive for aerated concrete is not rubbed over the surface of the masonry, but is trimmed after setting. Otherwise they are violated

The starting row receives the most attention. The work is carried out carefully. The ease of laying the walls of the house and the quality of the entire finished structure depend on the evenness and horizontality of the first blocks laid.

Installing the first row can take a team of masons a whole day. And this is considered normal. Here the basis of the future building is formed. The ease of subsequent wall laying depends on the accuracy of its placement.

Foundation preparation

A feature of aerated concrete is not only maximum lightness, but also high hygroscopicity. Any noticeable increase in humidity levels provokes a loss of thermal insulation properties by the building material, therefore houses made of aerated concrete must be built on a plinth usually made of concrete or brick.

The main purpose of the plinth is to protect the walls from precipitation, such as snow and rain, as well as from moisture that comes from the ground through capillary suction.

The height of the base for a house made of aerated concrete is determined based on the depth groundwater, average amount and nature of precipitation. It should be above the average snow cover for the area.

So for the Moscow region, the average snow height reaches its maximum in February and averages 25-35 cm per open areas and 40-45 cm - on protected ones. Protection can include fences, neighboring structures and vegetation. Based on this, a 40 cm base will be enough.


More the height of the plinth is influenced by aesthetic appearance buildings, number and height of steps, design of vents. As well as the presence or absence of basements and semi-basements, the location of communications underground.

Attention!

Do not forget to perform cut-off waterproofing using any roll material on a bitumen basis. When using less durable roofing material, I recommend laying it in 2 layers.

A guarantee of high-quality masonry will be the use of cut-off waterproofing, which will complement the standard waterproofing of the foundation base.

What should I put the first row on?

If the difference in the base is more than 5 mm, which is quite common, then the usual one will not work. Here you will need to combine the laying of the initial row with leveling the surface for the subsequent laying of blocks.

In this case, the installation of the starting row must be carried out exclusively on properly prepared, high-quality cement-sand masonry mortars . Since the base of the plinth is not perfectly flat, with minor differences and roughness allowed, the use of expensive glue will be an unacceptable luxury for laying on the foundation. In addition, the glue is more flexible and is intended for thin-seam masonry.

It is recommended to use a standard proportion of cement and sand passed through a sieve in a ratio of 1:3 for laying the initial row of blocks, with the addition of water until the mixture has a relatively thick consistency.

A properly prepared solution will not only allow you to obtain the most reliable connection between aerated concrete and the base, but will also help correct all existing irregularities. It is also allowed to use ready-made, factory-made mixtures made on the basis of cement and sand, supplemented with hydrophobic, water-retaining additives and plasticizers.

Preparation of the solution

The cement-sand mortar should have the most uniform consistency, so to prepare it, it is advisable to use a concrete mixer, in which you need fill a bucket of water, fill a bucket of M500 cement and add three buckets of sifted sand.

Manual mixing of the solution is also acceptable.

During the mixing process, you need to add water in small portions, which will bring the mixture to the required consistency. It is recommended to add a water-retaining additive to the solution to prevent rapid absorption of moisture into aerated concrete.

Cement mortars prepared under aerated concrete masonry, should be used within a couple of hours from the moment of mixing.

Step-by-step masonry technology

At the first stage you need check the height and horizontality of the foundation. Differences of up to 5 cm are allowed, since with such a thickness the solution does not shrink.

Other cases are considered defective and require repair. Any imperfections that are not too pronounced need to be cut or filled. cement mixture. Very significant unevenness will require the installation of additional formwork, followed by filling the surface with a concrete mixture with plasticizers, and further leveling. The height of the leveling layer should be about 30-50 mm. Laying can be done after the layer has dried.

At the next stage Cut-off waterproofing is being laid. The surface is covered roll waterproofing with overlapping material at the joints.

A waterproofing layer has been made, blocks are placed evenly in the corners according to a level or level, the lace is stretched in a horizontal position.

The laying begins from the corners, and serves as a guide highest point foundation. It is at this point that the first block is installed. Then blocks are placed in other corners. Installation of corner blocks with a tongue-and-groove connection is carried out with the ridges facing outward.

After placing the blocks in the corners, measure the heights again and mark the thickness of the required layer of mortar on each corner block with a pencil.

The correct installation of corner aerated concrete blocks can be checked with a building level or an optical level. If necessary, adjustment of corner block elements is carried out with a special rubber hammer.

Attention!

Before installing the blocks on the mortar, measure all sides and diagonals again. In a rectangular building, opposite sides should be parallel and equal. Adjacent sides must be perpendicular, which is checked by measuring the diagonals.

Install corner blocks on mortar, checking the mortar thickness written on each block. Install the blocks exactly level. Use an optical level to check the height of the block corner. If there is a discrepancy, press down the block with a mallet, or add mortar.

After installing the corner blocks, the lace is tightened and the row is filled with gas blocks. The cord makes it easier to perform strictly horizontal masonry.

Attention!

When the wall length is ten meters or more, a block is placed in the central part to prevent the cord from sagging.

Solutions for installing aerated building blocks must be applied to the surface of the base using a trowel. The first row of gas silicate blocks is laid using cement-sand mortars, and all subsequent rows are installed exclusively using adhesives. The side surfaces in both cases are coated with adhesives.

A rubber mallet is used to adjust the blocks. The dimensions of the elements, if necessary, can be adjusted using . Here you will need a special power tool. In this case, the grouting of the cut is carried out using a trowel or aerated concrete plane.

Before further installation, you need to wait until the solution has completely hardened, which will prevent the risk of deformation of the starting blocks by the weight of subsequent rows.

Useful video

This short story shows the main points that you should pay attention to when laying the first row.

The construction of buildings made of aerated concrete is associated with some peculiarities. Cellular concrete has significant differences from cinder block or brick. Therefore, it is naive to believe that it is so easy to do it from relatively cheap aerated concrete blocks. Before starting work, you should carefully study not only the properties of aerated concrete, but also the technology for its installation. It is also important to know the conditions under which the design will be as reliable and durable as possible.

Aerated blocks are much easier to lay than bricks or cinder blocks. This is due to the presence of practically smooth surfaces blocks. Even if there are small protrusions or some other flaws, gas blocks are easily aligned in one row using simple cutting tools, since you can even saw it regular saw or a hacksaw.

Installation of aerated concrete blocks begins from the corner that is located highest. Each laid row is checked with a hydraulic level.

Construction begins with the foundation. Usually its surface is far from ideal. For this purpose, after laying the waterproofing, the foundation is covered with a layer cement mortar. The first row is placed on this solution. Thanks to the relatively thick layer of mortar, the blocks of the first row are perfectly even. The lower surfaces of the first row blocks are moistened to prevent them from absorbing moisture from the solution.

The video shows how to lay aerated concrete blocks with your own hands using the example of building a bathhouse:

Aerated concrete block calculator

There are many resources on the network that allow you to calculate the required number of aerated concrete blocks. To do this, you need to indicate the following information about your building:

• Total length of external walls.
• Wall height.
• Dimensions of the block you will use.
• Cost per cubic meter of material.
• Area of ​​doors and windows.
• The total length of all interior partitions.
• Dimensions of blocks used to create partitions.
• The area of ​​windows and doors placed on partitions.
• These calculations will help you calculate the exact number of gas blocks, as well as their approximate cost.

Brief instructions for laying

First row of blocks must be laid on a layer of waterproofing, which will protect the material from moisture leakage from the foundation. The very first row of blocks is laid not with glue, but with ordinary cement mortar. It is advisable to start laying from the corners, stretching a marking cord between them.

If the remaining gap in the row is shorter than the whole block, an additional block is cut to the specified dimensions. Next rows laid on an adhesive mortar with obligatory ligation of the blocks, as with brickwork.

Applying glue to gas blocks is done with a spatula or a special carriage, the width of which is equal to the width of the masonry. It is also advisable to coat the sides of the blocks with glue, especially if there will be no subsequent finishing of one of the sides of the room.

The adhesive layer should not be thick, since it ensures excellent seam connection even with the smallest amount of it. Prices for glue vary widely and depend on its volume and brand of manufacturer.

Block Alignment Leveling is done with a rubber or wooden hammer.

Masonry reinforcement

It should be understood that reinforcement does not strengthen the masonry, but only prevents cracks from appearing on the walls. Nevertheless, this operation is recommended for the construction of any large facility. Not all rows are reinforced, but only some of the most vulnerable areas. These are the locations of lintels, support areas, the first row of masonry, areas under window openings. Reinforced top part gas blocks along the length.

Reinforcement material can be of two types:

• A frame made of two rows of steel wire, rigidly connected to each other by thinner jumpers. The frame is laid in one layer.
• Steel reinforcement with a cross section of 6-8 mm. Reinforcement requires laying two parallel rows of reinforcement.

Before laying the reinforcement, it is necessary to cut grooves in the aerated concrete. To do this, use a regular wall chaser. The grooves are cleaned of dust and filled with glue. Then reinforcing material is placed in them, removing any remaining adhesive.

What is necessary when installing aerated concrete blocks

Waterproofing aerated concrete protects the blocks from moisture, so its presence is mandatory between the walls and the foundation. Waterproofing can be rolled or coated.

You can find various brands of aerated concrete blocks on sale. In addition, they can be not only standard sizes, but also with additional elements, which help facilitate the process of building houses with your own hands.

Construction technology from aerated concrete blocks

The construction of any structures made of aerated concrete is recommended to be carried out with warm weather, more than +5 degrees, but not higher than +25. If you have to work in the heat, the surfaces of the blocks need to be moistened with water. When working in cold weather, special anti-frost additives should be added to the adhesive composition.

Masonry adhesive prepared before starting work. Water is poured into the dry mixture and mixed to the desired thickness. For laying external walls, gas blocks 375-400 mm thick are used, respectively, the thickness will be the same finished wall. All partitions, if necessary, are laid out in blocks of 200-250 mm.

There should be no level differences between adjacent blocks. Changes will lead to the formation of vertical cracks and cold bridges. To level the row, after laying it, the surface of the aerated concrete is cleaned with a float or a special plane.

When forming window or door bays metal corners, wooden beams or reinforced concrete beams are used as floors. All partitions must be embedded into the main walls. To do this, about a quarter of the material is removed from the walls.

When laying the top row, the features of the overlap should be taken into account. Usually, V last row there are U-blocks, on which the floor beams and roof are laid.

Construction of a house from aerated concrete blocks:

Average installation cost

If you compare the prices for laying a house made of brick and a house made of aerated concrete, the difference will be about 40% in favor of aerated concrete. This comes from the following features:

• Aerated concrete itself is cheaper than brick.
• The cost of masonry is reduced if you use glue instead of conventional cement mortar. In addition, the use of such a composition makes the masonry more even.
• Much less glue is required than the mortar used for laying bricks (about 5 times).
• The lighter weight of the blocks reduces the weight load of the walls on the foundation, as a result of which it can be made not too massive.
• Reduced transportation and installation costs.
• Saving on the use of construction equipment.

Taking into account other positive features, the conclusion is obvious - this is a more economical and less labor-intensive material, houses and buildings from which are in no way inferior to houses made from traditional materials.

Aerated concrete is synthetic construction material, which is a type of cellular concrete, its weight does not exceed 0.5-1.2 t/m3 (against the weight brickwork 2-2.5 t/m3), that is, it is a light, porous substance produced by mineral based. Small round pores up to 3 mm in diameter are evenly distributed throughout the entire volume of aerated concrete products, due to which the weight of the material is reduced. The article will discuss the installation of walls made of aerated concrete blocks.

Aerated concrete blocks are widely used in construction around the world; they are manufactured in 50 countries at 250 factories and have high quality and strength indicators. The products are used in the construction of walls of any type. Buildings constructed using of this material, are distinguished by high thermal insulation qualities, which are achieved thanks to the precise geometry of the blocks, the composition and technology by which they are produced, as well as by laying them on a 3 mm adhesive layer that prevents freezing of the seams.

Aerated concrete production technology

The composition of the mass for the production of aerated concrete includes several mandatory components and some additional ones, which may not be added, depending on the production technology.

Required elements:

• quartz sand;
• highly alkaline cement;
• water;
• gas formers (paste or suspension of fine metallic aluminum).

Additional Additives:

• gypsum;
• lime;
• metallurgical slag;
• ash.

The dry components are thoroughly mixed together and then kneaded with the addition of water. The resulting mass is poured into metal-plastic molds without filling them to the top. The foaming process occurs as a result of interaction in aquatic environment blowing agent and cement. After a short time, the mixture increases in volume and hardens, after which monolithic slab removed from the mold and cut into rectangular bricks of the required size.

• At the last stage of production, the workpieces are dried in an autoclave (a device that allows the material to be processed under pressure and at high temperature) or in electrically heated drying chambers. It is according to the technology of final processing that aerated concrete is divided into autoclave and non-autoclave. For most types construction work recommended to use autoclaved aerated concrete, which has improved technical characteristics. Due to steam treatment, the structure of the products becomes more uniform and durable.

• Non-autoclaved aerated concrete blocks are usually produced in small factories with hand made, since this technology does not require special equipment, the mixture hardens in molds naturally. The finished material has less strength, and when constructing buildings it is recommended to lay it in two rows, or use such products as an additional layer in multi-layer masonry.

Advantages of aerated concrete blocks

Aerated concrete blocks have many positive qualities:

• This is a material with increased sound insulation and heat protection;
• produced on the basis of only mineral components;
• has high frost resistance;
• has a low specific gravity - the weight of a standard block measuring 62.5x10x25 cm does not exceed 10 kg;
• has good fire resistance, withstands open flames for 3-4 hours;
• does not rot in a humid environment;

• is characterized by quick and easy installation, easy to process, saw and cut without using special tools, due to which the price for installation of aerated concrete blocks is lower than for brickwork;
• economical material, due to the low cost of the blocks themselves and lower cement consumption during production, as well as due to reduced costs for transportation and foundation installation, in addition, the installation of blocks can be carried out by one person, without the involvement of assistants;
• over time, the finished aerated concrete masonry gains even greater strength;
• has low natural radioactivity;
• environmentally friendly material;
• for low-rise construction (up to 3 floors), it is allowed to use blocks for the construction of load-bearing structures;
• reinforced aerated concrete products can be used as floor slabs.

Of course, like any other material, aerated concrete has its drawbacks. The main negative qualities include the presence of through pores, due to which the blocks require additional waterproofing, and such pores also reduce mechanical strength.

Technical characteristics of aerated concrete blocks

Aerated concrete products are divided into two main types.

• Partition aerated concrete blocks- thickness varies from 7.5 cm to 20 cm, main purpose: device interior partitions and internal walls (non-load-bearing structures), can also be used as an insulating layer for brickwork.
• Wall aerated concrete blocks- thickness from 25 cm, main purpose: construction load-bearing walls. For the construction of buildings in cold climatic zones It is recommended to use aerated concrete products with a thickness of 37 cm or more; in this case, for insulation it is sufficient to carry out plastering works from the outside of the building.

Aerated concrete products have the following options:

• density: 350-1700 kg/m3 (marking “D”, the lower the grade, the warmer the material);
• compressive density: 1-7.5 mPa;
• length: 60 cm, 62.5 cm;
• width: 7.5 - 50 cm;
• height: 20 cm, 25 cm;
• frost resistance: up to 75 cycles (marked “F”);
• environmental factor: 2.0;
• water absorption: less than 20%;
• thermal conductivity: 0.16-0.81 W/m3;
• drying shrinkage: 0.5 mm/m.

Construction of a house from aerated concrete blocks

Calculation of aerated concrete blocks

• Before starting construction, you should calculate the required material. As an example, we can take a house whose dimensions are 15x13 m, with a height of 3 m. To calculate the area of ​​the perimeter walls, you need to add the width of all four walls and multiply by the height: (15+15+13+13)x3 = 168 m2.
• If several walls have the same dimensions (as in our example), then you can proceed as follows: 15x2x3 + 13x2x3 = 168 m2.
• To find out how many cubic meters of aerated concrete blocks are needed, the result should be multiplied by the thickness of one block (for example, 0.3 m): 168x0.3 = 50.4 m3. This number of blocks is necessary for the construction of the external walls of the building (blocks are sold in pallets and measured in m3). The same scheme is used to calculate interior walls and partitions.
• If you need to calculate the piece quantity of products in 1 m3, then you should calculate the volume of one block used; for this, the lengths of all its sides are multiplied. For example, you can take a product with standard size: length 60 cm, height 20 cm and thickness 30 cm. First of all, you need to convert centimeters or millimeters into meters. In the end it will work out following formula and the result: 0.2x0.3x0.6 =0.036 m3. Next, it remains to divide 1 cubic meter by the resulting volume of blocks: 1/0.036 = 27.7. It turns out that to build one cubic meter of masonry you need to purchase 28 blocks established size, and for a house of 168 m2 approximately 1400 blocks will be required.

Foundation for a house made of aerated concrete blocks

Having calculated the required amount of material, you can begin building the foundation. Several types of foundations are used for aerated concrete construction:

• columnar;
• tape monolithic;
• tiled monolithic.

A specific type is selected based on a number of parameters, such as house design, soil characteristics, groundwater depth, etc.

Advice: experts recommend pouring a monolithic strip foundation. If substances for accelerated hardening were not added to the foundation solution, then the foundation will need to be left for a month to completely harden and gain strength.

Whatever foundation is chosen for the house, it should be carefully insulated and waterproofed. This can be done using 1-2 layers of rolled material, for example, roofing felt. The base for laying walls must be leveled in a horizontal plane.

Tools for installing aerated concrete blocks

Before laying aerated concrete blocks, you need to prepare necessary tools and materials for work:

• aerated concrete blocks;
• adhesive solution;
• spatula, serrated and straight;
• building level;
• plane or sanding board;
• hand saw or electric band saw;
• brush.

To prevent cold bridges that form in the cement-sand mortar, when laying the blocks, a special adhesive composition based on Portland cement, quartz sand and additives (mineral, polymer) is used. Cover the mixture in clean water, the temperature of which is no more than 30 degrees.

The specified norms for adding water to the composition should not be violated, since glue that is too liquid will have reduced strength characteristics. It is recommended to apply glue in a layer not exceeding 3 mm using notched trowel. The prepared solution cannot be stored long time, and you can adjust the location of the blocks within 3-4 minutes.

The Xella company has been producing various tools for several years, the main purpose of which is to increase the quality and speed of work on installing aerated concrete. Professional tool is developed taking into account technical characteristics individual blocks, their dimensions and geometry are taken into account.

Basic set of specialized auxiliary tools:

• trowel - the width is equal to the width of the blocks, provides a thickness of the applied layer from 1 to 3 mm, the advantage is that when applied, the solution does not flow down the sides, but is accurately distributed over the surface of the block, as a result of which the masonry remains clean;
• carriage with dispenser - also in size corresponds to the width of the blocks and is used for the fastest possible application glue mixture, has a maximum width of 500 mm;
• mallet - a rubber hammer that prevents damage to aerated concrete (this product should not be replaced with a simple metal or wooden hammer, since their use leads to damage to aerated concrete blocks);
• wall chaser - helps to manually cut grooves in aerated concrete;
• hand saw or cutter - used for neat cutting of blocks, have carbide tips;
• plane - helps to change the shape of the block and level out large unevenness in the masonry;
• sanding board - eliminates minor irregularities and defects in erected aerated concrete structures;
• corner - fixes the block and helps to make even cuts on it.

In addition to specialized tools, the German company Xella also produces Ytong aerated concrete blocks themselves, as well as adhesive compositions and winter mixtures.

Laying aerated concrete blocks

• The strength of the entire structure depends on how well the first row is laid. Masonry made from aerated concrete blocks differs from brickwork, since aerated concrete is a relatively lightweight material that does not squeeze out excess mortar from the joints during installation. In addition, walls can be erected from it without technological pauses.
• For building external walls building codes It is recommended to use blocks with a thickness of at least 37-40 cm; for external walls, blocks with a thickness of 25 cm or more are sufficient, and decorative walls and partitions can be erected from aerated concrete with a thickness of 10 cm or more.
• So, before you begin building the first row of masonry, you should carefully prepare the foundation. This primarily concerns the installation of waterproofing materials. Any rolled bitumen or polymer material(for example, roofing felt) or a special waterproofing solution based on polymer-cement components.

• On top waterproofing material Apply a 2-3 cm layer of cement mortar (approximate composition: 1 part cement, 3 parts sand), which will help compensate for uneven foundations. Horizontalness must be checked using building level. The first row is laid along a stretched thread starting from the corner.

• The adhesive mass is applied in a thin layer to the blocks and the first row is laid out. Each laid block is checked for level in the horizontal and vertical planes; if necessary, the blocks are tapped with a special rubber mallet.

• If, when laying blocks in a row, there is a space between them that is less than the standard length, then an additional element should be made. To do this, using manual or electric saw cut the required length from the aerated concrete block and trim the cut with a sanding board or plane.

Advice: when installing such an element, it is important to lubricate adhesive composition and its ends adjacent to the main row. This should be remembered at any stage of wall construction; if the block has cuts, then it is necessary to treat it with glue on all sides to add strength to the structure being built.

• The second and subsequent rows are laid from the corner with an offset of half a block to the right or left (at least 8-10 cm). To install a more reliable masonry, before installing the second row, you should wait 2-3 hours for the cement mortar of the first row to harden. With the help of a brush everything is swept away fine particles and dust. In cases where excess solution appears, such smudges are cleaned off, but not rubbed over.

• In order to achieve optimal row evenness, it is recommended to install wooden structures on the entire row or in the corners. Alignment of the horizon and vertical is done after each row. If even small differences remain, this can lead to the appearance of stress in certain areas, and subsequently to the formation of cracks.
• You should refrain from unpacking all aerated concrete products at once, since the material may reduce its performance due to exposure to precipitation and various atmospheric phenomena. technical specifications. If it starts to rain during construction, then the unfinished masonry must be covered with film, and when work stops for winter period Be sure to carefully isolate the structure from moisture. On hot days, it is recommended to moisten the installed aerated concrete blocks with water.
• Upon completion of the construction of aerated concrete building, it is best to leave the structure for some time to shrink. As a rule, buildings made of cellular concrete do not shrink significantly and after 1-2 months you can begin interior decoration.
• Finishing inside the building is carried out earlier than finishing the facade, since the moisture generated from pouring the floors and painting work should come out. When installing windows, doors or other elements, you should use special dowels and do not use an impact drill for drilling.

Adhesive solution for laying aerated concrete blocks

• It is worth mentioning separately about the adhesive composition used in the process of erecting aerated concrete structures. Until now, many people use it for these purposes. cement-sand mortar in an attempt to save money. In fact, this is only an appearance of savings, since the cost of special glue, although it exceeds the cost of sand and cement by about 2-3 times, but the consumption of the adhesive composition is much less, approximately 6 times.
• In addition, when making an interblock seam minimum size, you can achieve a significant reduction in heat consumption, and this is only possible using special glue.

• By laying blocks on a cement-sand mortar, it is impossible to obtain their maximum density in relation to each other, so it will not be possible to avoid the appearance of cold bridges. As a result, the interior decoration will also suffer, since condensation will accumulate on the outer part of the wall and over time this will lead to the formation of bacteria, mold and fungi. Also, cement-based mortar significantly reduces the compressive strength of the structure and it is quite difficult to achieve acceptable evenness of the entire masonry.
• Preparing the adhesive solution is not difficult. The mixture is sold in the form of a dry powder, which is added to water according to the instructions before use. The resulting mass is kneaded until smooth with a construction mixer or using a special attachment on a drill. The resulting solution has a medium consistency, reminiscent of thick sour cream. It can be applied either with a trowel or using a special carriage or bucket with a curved edge. Then, the applied layer is leveled with a spatula with a notched comb.
• The load-bearing joints should be filled completely with the composition, regardless of the shape of the aerated concrete products. Interblock joints with tongue-and-groove joints are partially filled with the mixture. IN winter time recommended to use adhesive solutions with special frost-resistant additives.

Internal and external finishing of aerated concrete structures

Thermal insulation

• Aerated concrete products retain heat well. Most often, a significant part of the heat loss occurs due to the presence of cold bridges in the interblock seams, as well as through other structural elements - windows, roofing, foundation, and so on. Therefore, when building a house from cellular concrete, care should be taken to ensure increased thermal insulation of these elements. If there is a need for an additional insulating layer for walls, then you can use products based on mineral wool, and then apply plastering or ventilated facades.

Finishing

• When choosing materials for finishing a house, it is necessary to take into account the fact that aerated concrete is a porous material that can absorb water. You should not be afraid of this process, since moisture does not penetrate deeply into the material, but only slightly wets its surface. At the same time, education is possible dark spots or smudges that greatly spoil the appearance.
• Interior finishing can be done using vapor-proof materials, but the building will lose natural ventilation, But external finishing the facade, especially with the help of plaster, will last much longer. It is also possible to perform cladding with vapor-permeable material; such finishing will require a little more effort, but at the same time the house will retain comfortable conditions for accommodation.

• When starting interior decoration, you should smooth out all the unevenness on the walls, filling them with adhesive or a mixture of cement and sand. First of all, the masonry must be treated with a special primer (for hygroscopic materials). To do this, the surface is dust-free and generously coated with a primer. Then wait for 3-4 hours and begin plastering.
• For living rooms it is best to use non-moisture resistant compounds in the same rooms where there is high humidity(corridor, bath, kitchen), it is worth additionally treating with waterproofing mixtures and then covering with moisture-resistant plaster. After the initial processing, you can begin the decorating process. It is recommended to use paints for aerated concrete for these purposes.
• For finishing facades, it is best not to use products based on foam glass or foam plastic; you should also refrain from painting with vapor- and air-tight compounds or use polymer plasters. Optimal for external cladding walls, arrange various ventilated structures from siding, slats or decorative slabs. If you want a plastered facade, then you can only use special compounds developed for aerated concrete, since ordinary plaster will begin to lag and peel over time.

Masonry made from aerated concrete blocks does not collapse under the influence of environment even without the use of additional exterior finishing. In general, cladding is carried out only to improve the aesthetic qualities of the exterior. A properly installed roof, a reliable drainage system, as well as elements such as canopies and window sills will help preserve the erected structure in its original form for many years.