Universal fertilizer for flowers. Aspirin plant nutrition

by Udaff, photo: TopTropicals.com

Organic and inorganic - which is better?

Organic fertilizers represent what in a past life was organic matter - animal manure, bird droppings (under the noble name “guano”), plant debris, compost, etc. They contain (more or less) everything necessary for plants substances, since any organic fertilizer used to be a living cell, in which boron-iron-potassium, etc. was also present.

Inorganics– everything is simplified here, it contains only the main components of plant nutrition.

From this it is clear that organic fertilizers are more “long-lasting”. They still have to rot (and if the ground is cold, this process can take a long time).

At the same time, by using inorganics, the result can be obtained much faster (not to mention the unaesthetic process of introducing noble guano into a pot of cactus that is in the wife’s bedroom - you can get hit on the head with this cactus).

For indoor plants We don't use organics. In the garden, organic matter is added not only as fertilizer, but also to improve the soil structure (compost, for example). But we are categorically against the use of compost, humus, etc. in pots with plants.

Therefore, if you are not a fan of a healthy and organic lifestyle and buy cucumbers in a nearby grocery store, and not in a store where they are grown using only a noble product (interestingly, the fact that the level of cadmium in the kidneys of the manufacturer of this guano is off the charts does not bother anyone), then put aside the foul-smelling liquid and get on with the inorganic stuff. The only exception is aquarium water: when changing the water in the aquarium, water the plants in pots with it - this is an excellent fertilizer.

N-P-K: nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium

The composition of the fertilizer is characterized by the percentage of nitrogen ( N), phosphorus ( P), potassium ( K), or the formula N-P-K.

In the USA, for example, any fertilizer is required by law to have description N-P-K compound. We have long had a suspicion that most fertilizers come from the same barrel, and therefore, in principle, they are all the same, even if they differ slightly in composition.

Pay attention to the values ​​of N-P-K values. Fertilizers with formulas 6-6-6 and 12-12-12 are the same, only in the first case you buy less fertilizer and more filler. The first number of the formula indicates the nitrogen content, which contributes to the formation of abundant green tops in plants. Phosphorus (second number) affects their flowering. If you applied 22-4-4 fertilizer, then you won’t see the plants bloom for a long time - the green leaves will be trampled, and until all the fertilizer is “eaten” by the plant, it won’t have flowers (we went through this).

For the “general development” of plants, you need to take fertilizer like 12-12-12, for flowering 12-30-12; Moreover, the latter is soluble. A high phosphate content in granules is meaningless, since it will become insoluble on the surface of the earth. At all, It is better to apply phosphates deep into the soil.

Buy fertilizers with microelements, magnesium and iron are especially important. Magnesium sulfate can be purchased at a pharmacy. Its deficiency, like iron, causes chlorosis (leaf discoloration) in plants. The percentage of microelements is not particularly important.

Microelements must be chelated, otherwise they (especially iron) oxidize and become inaccessible to plants. This is one of the most common causes of chlorosis of plants in a pot - poor drainage, the roots at the bottom of the pot sit in the water and cannot get iron; Another reason could be high soil pH.

Do not store the diluted fertilizer solution for a long time - chelates, especially in the light, disintegrate .

Various variations of “specialized” fertilizers (such as “fertilizer for palm trees”, etc.) are nothing more than a marketing gimmick.

It is better to put “long-lasting” fertilizers in the pot with the plant, the granules of which swell and slowly “release” the fertilizer into the ground. Long-lasting fertilizers are more expensive, but really worth it. There are different types of them, differing in the percentage of elements and designed for different time splitting - 6 months, 9 months, etc. Great convenience - using them, you don’t have to worry about a possible overdose of fertilizers.

If you use regular fertilizers rather than long-lasting ones, be careful with the dose of fertilizer so as not to burn the plant roots. Below is written about nitrogen oxides and ammonia. It is better to apply a reduced dose of fertilizer, but more often. If the weather is cold or the plant is stressed, do not fertilize.

When planting plants in the garden, any fertilizer is suitable. Unless you are growing wheat on thirty hectares, where the cost of fertilizer is important, then take a fertilizer 12-12-12, 14-14-14 (or close to this ratio). If you overpaid for “unused” potassium, then this is not so important.

We buy several of the cheapest fertilizers, mix them, and additionally add iron and microelements. We fertilize the plants when it is very warm and good watering. The only subtlety: if the tropical rainy season has begun, then ordinary fertilizer will be washed away very quickly. In this case, it is better to take a “semi-long-lasting” one that will last for some time.
If you apply fertilizer once a year at your dacha in the Moscow region, then it makes all the more sense for you to apply a “long-lasting” fertilizer such as Osmokot. If you, like us, live in the tropics, then Osmokot is a waste of money. Because of high temperature and climate humidity instead of 6 or 9 months written on the label, the fertilizer will “last” a month and a half.

To stimulate flowering of plants, we sprinkle (or water them) with a loading dose of soluble fertilizer (20-50-20). Spraying with soluble fertilizer is very useful for plants (hibiscus, etc.).

On the fertilizer packaging, look at what the nitrogen in this fertilizer is obtained from - urea(ammonia - NH 3, ammonium ion - NH 4+) or nitrogen oxides. We consulted in detail with local university professor Murray Corman. In short: plant leaves “whistle” and absorb ammonia, so you need to spray urea on the foliage. For the same reason, aquarium plants eat up ammonium first, and then oxides. Plant roots use only nitrogen oxides; ammonia is toxic to them. Microorganisms in the soil convert ammonium ammonia into oxides. That's why if you apply fertilizer to the ground, it is better to use smaller doses and more often. Otherwise, microorganisms will not cope and will not process anything - the roots of the plants will be destroyed. If it is cold, then urea cannot be added - bacteria do not work in the cold. For the nitrate cycle, bacteria need oxygen - another argument in favor of soil with good drainage. As a result, it is best to apply a mixture of urea and nitrogen oxides - it is usually written on the fertilizer bag what the nitrogen is derived from.

Soil acidity is also very important. At high pH, ​​iron will be unavailable to plants. Any inscriptions that fertilizer acidifies the soil are nonsense. If there is a lot of carbonates in the soil (for example, limestone, which will bind “acidity”), then the only way to acidify the soil is with a carload of hydrochloric acid. Adding sulfates will only help for a couple of days. If you have alkaline soil, it is better to mix it with peat.

What fertilizers to choose for plants in pots?

If you are a busy or forgetful person, then it is best for you to use “long-lasting” fertilizers for your plants. If you devote two hours every day to caring for flowers (like Nero Wolf), then use two types of soluble fertilizers:

1. "For general development"- 12-12-12 (approximate numbers) with trace elements. Water according to instructions once a week. It is useful to spray plants with this fertilizer.
2. "For Bloom"- use fertilizers with high content phosphates (for example, 10-50-10). Water flowering plants with this fertilizer once a month or more often, alternating with the first fertilizer.

That's all you need to know when choosing fertilizers.

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In the spring-summer period, you really want to please your eyes with something beautiful, decorate your yard, balcony, etc. with flowers, create comfort around you and enjoy the beauty. There are a huge number of species. You can grow them yourself or purchase them planted in pots. It takes first place in terms of its diversity, rich color palette and beauty. However, in order for a flower to delight you with its appearance for a long time, you need to know what petunia is for abundant flowering.

Petunia: brief description of the flower

This is the most suitable flower for external decoration of windows and balconies. There are two main varieties - multi-flowered and large-flowered. There are about 25 species.

The type of stem depends on the plant variety: branched, erect, hanging or creeping. The color of the bud is the most varied: pure white, various tones of yellow and pink, bright red, purple, blue, there are even variegated patterns of flowers.

Regardless of the variety, the plant is light-loving. Loves moisture, but not too much of it. If grown by seeds, flowering occurs on the 70-90th day after planting, it also depends on the chosen variety.

Features of the fertilizer

Whatever type or variety you choose, it will always need feeding. It is especially important to know what to feed petunia for abundant flowering.

The plant, although beautiful and tender, is very voracious. Therefore, it is necessary to fertilize it. Flowers planted in small pots and cache-pots need regular feeding. In small containers, the substrate quickly loses the microelements that the plant needs. Therefore, it is important to replant the flower in larger pots.

Both newly planted flower seeds and adult plants need it. And properly selected fertilizers for petunias will be necessary for abundant flowering. After all, our goal is a bush strewn with flowers.

Fertilizer methods

There are several ways to fertilize petunia.

• Fertilizer treatment. Held . It regulates soil microflora and petunia growth. It is a food product for plants and living microorganisms. Normalizes soil flora. Plant fed succinic acid, grows better and has more strength to fight various diseases. It also tolerates drought better. An overdose of this drug is not dangerous. Dried seeds do not need to be fertilized. They are already fed and protected by a shell of, and.
• Soil feeding. By fertilizing the substrate before planting the plant, a good nutrient medium is created for it. Prevention of diseases such as blackleg is also carried out. Peat is added. This is one of the mandatory procedures, because petunia does not tolerate stagnant moisture. Immediately before adding seeds, the soil is watered. Can be replaced with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
• Fertilizing seedlings and adult petunias. After diving, the first feeding is done 14 days later. Usually these are phosphate fertilizers. This feeding is carried out every other day, alternating with regular watering. Iron fertilization is applied if petunia leaves begin to turn yellow, and is carried out with an interval of 5 days, 3-4 times. Phosphates are used to improve appearance petunias. It becomes more colorful and lush.
• Foliar application of fertilizers. It’s good to alternate with the root one. Sold in liquid form. A weak solution is made and sprayed with a spray bottle onto the leaves and color of the plant. Foliar feeding is actively used in the initial stages of flower disease.

Types of flower fertilizers

The flower is finicky and requires special attention and observation. Therefore, there are several types of feeding. How to fertilize petunias for high-quality and less labor-intensive processing is liquid fertilizers. They are the most popular of all types of fertilizers. Sold as a concentrated liquid. They are diluted in the required proportion with water and the substrate is watered.

Important! Dilution proportion liquid fertilizers must be followed exactly. Failure to comply with the proportions is fraught with plant disease and even death.

Their choice is very large, and you can buy them at any flower shop. Fertilizers for petunia flowering, which are in demand and tested by many gardeners: “Garden of Miracles”, “Ideal”, “Bona Forte”, “Uniflor”.

Dry fertilizers are also diluted according to instructions, but are presented in the form of powder or granules. They note “Plantofol”, “Master”, “Kemira Lux”. Dry fertilizers, like liquid ones, should be used at least once a week. The proportions are observed according to the instructions. More frequent use is possible, but the concentration of the fertilizer is reduced by 3-4 times. Plants like this feeding regime even better.
Long-lasting fertilizers are easy to use. They are granules (“Ethisso”). They are added to the substrate before planting petunias and dissolve over time, which feeds it. But their disadvantage is that it is difficult to regulate the degree of nutrition of the plant. If the flower looks unimportant and it seems that it does not have enough feeding, then when additional fertilizers are introduced there is a possibility that the flower will disappear. Therefore, long-lasting fertilizers are not particularly in demand. For beginning gardeners, it is better to use other types of fertilizer.

How to feed petunia for abundant flowering

On average, petunia blooms from June and lasts until September. Depending on the variety, it happens that the period of bud opening is extended even longer. And, of course, caring for it and timely feeding is important. If the seeds are sown in pots at the end of February, the flowers may appear in early April.

For abundant flowering of petunias, they should be fed throughout the entire growth period, starting from the second week after planting the seeds. They must receive complex fertilizers.

A plant that does not receive the required amount of nutrition throughout its growth is not able to fully bloom. What fertilizers petunia likes is a must a large number of phosphorus and . Phosphorus improves growth intensity and enriches the stem and leaves with microelements. With its deficiency, the leaves darken and sometimes acquire a bluish tint. Lower leaves darken and fall off. When these signs appear, feed the flower with phosphorus. is the main nutrition for petunia for flowering, it promotes flowering and fruiting.
The buds of a flower fertilized with potassium become rich and bright. They remain on the plant longer. Potassium is applied immediately before flowering. It inhibits plant growth. It is very important to prevent an overdose, otherwise the flower will die. Nitrogen fertilizers are used during the seedling phase.

To grow tops, fertilizers are applied in the same ratio of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus (NPK 10-10-10). When flowering is expected, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are used. “Kemira Lux” (16-20.6-27.1) is one of the best fertilizers in terms of composition, which is worth feeding flowers for abundant flowering. This fertilizer contains an excellent ratio of microelements that petunias need to start flowering.

"Agricola" is already used for flowering plant. Its composition is 15-21-25. When forming a plant and after pruning, Agricola is used with the composition 24-10-20.

Fertilizing flowers is the key to their long-lasting, abundant and wild flowering. Get flower arrangements like those in the photo, it is impossible in natural culture. And it's not just the limited volume nutrient medium; in a properly arranged flower bed it can be more than sufficient. The point is that natural life cycle decorative flowers are deliberately distorted in favor of more lush barren flowers to the detriment of fruiting. Even annual flowers are propagated by seeds relatively rarely, and for some flower crops fruiting is generally unacceptable. One of the agricultural techniques that allows you to achieve lush color without risking premature depletion of plants is proper application of fertilizers.

Plant Nutrition Basics

As you know, plants primarily need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (NPK) for normal development.

Nitrogen promotes the growth of green mass to the detriment of flowering and fruiting, but any plants wither due to nitrogen starvation. Therefore, fertilizers for flowers should contain a minimum of nitrogen: suddenly a starvation of it is discovered, additional doses of nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied as an urgent feeding. The percentage of active NPK in ready-made fertilizer mixtures is most often indicated by 3 digits, for example. 20-10-20 means 20% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus and 20% potassium. Fertilizers containing more than 20% nitrogen should be avoided for flowers.

Phosphorus and potassium enhance the development of the root system, plant resistance to cold and diseases etc. extreme conditions, so to speak, their general health, a favorable physiological state. The number of flower buds laid depends on the latter, but phosphorus and potassium do not directly affect the nature of flowering. Flowering is ensured mainly due to its own reserves of the so-called. plastic substances in the plant. If it approaches the flowering phase exhausted, it will not have a lush color, no matter how you feed it.

Next, plants need microelements; primarily magnesium, calcium, iron, boron, copper, manganese, molybdenum, zinc. If on the package ready-made fertilizer+7 microelements are listed, then most likely this is what they are, except for calcium. Its salts are relatively difficult to dissolve, so calcium is introduced into the soil by liming or in the form of eggshells. Fertilizers for indoor flowers should already contain 16-20 microelements, as for hydroponics, because potting soil is always very depleted. Ready mixes with so many microelements there are no, because... from their expanded set, nano-doses are no longer required, but rather nano-doses, but fertilizer supplements with a full set of microelements are easy to prepare with your own hands at home.

The culture of flowers in boxes on the balcony has its own characteristics, which will be discussed further. For now, we note that for balcony flowers, +7 fertilizers are sufficient, because the soil in the boxes is changed annually or reclaimed in the fall.

How to feed flowers?

In the method of fertilizing the soil under flowers, three types of soil should be especially clearly distinguished:

• Filling the soil, i.e. pre-saturation of it with difficult to wash out (leached) nutrients;
• Systematic feeding of flowers in order to correct the life cycle and current nutrition of plants;
• Urgent feeding with quickly absorbed fertilizers in case of signs of starvation for any of the elements.

Averaged over many crops, the requirements for saturating the soil with the full range of nutrients for flower and food crops are shown in Fig. Flowers that are not allowed into the fruiting phase on a starvation diet need large starting spring reserves, pos. 1 and 1’ in Fig. There is no need to worry about the accumulation of nitrates here, because... they don't eat flowers. Fertilizing before the budding phase or at its very beginning (pos. 2) is necessary for flowering, because The reproduction algorithm has already turned on in plants, i.e. flowering and fruiting.

It is very important not to feed flowers in the midst of budding, failure 3. Plants will “understand” this as temporary unfavourable conditions, requiring to slow down the reproduction of offspring, i.e. postpone flowering, although buds will still form. But fertilizing immediately before the buds open (peak 4) stimulates their friendly blossoming and long flowering. This technique is especially effective for home, greenhouse and greenhouse flowers, and for open ground and balcony flowers it can be erased under the influence of actual external conditions - prolonged bad weather, heat, drought, etc.

After flowering, it is better not to feed the flowers at all (position 5), so as not to encourage them to bear fruit. During the period of preparation for winter (pos. 6), flowers are given 1-2 weak feedings, so that they do not decide to bloom in winter and therefore not survive it. Remember, we did not allow flowers to complete their seasonal cycle to its natural end - fruits and seeds. But already during the dormant period, but even before the cold weather, the soil under the flowers needs to be properly filled with fertilizers, so that in the spring there will be something to roam around. Abundant autumn refilling of the soil is especially necessary for regenerating perennials with a short growing season (tulips, hyacinths, crocuses, etc.); this is the so-called ephemeral plants.

Life cycles of flowers

Flower fertilizers containing NPK +7 or +20 are available in different chemical and physical forms, the effect of which on plants can be radically different. The first thing you should consider when choosing fertilizer for flowers is the plant life cycle. According to the duration and nature of their life activity, decorative flowers are divided into:

1. Continuously growing flowers are mainly home (indoor) flowers, except for those requiring a physiological pause (cyclamen, gloxinia, etc.).
2. Wintering perennials - in mid-latitudes these are usually shrubs: roses, lilacs, clematis, etc.
3. Renewing perennials with a short growing season are mainly ephemeral: tulips, hyacinths, anemones, crocuses.
4. The same, but with a long growing season. For the winter aboveground part dies, and in the spring it grows from renewal buds on the roots (carnations, delphinium, phlox, mignonette, gillyflower, and many others) or from tubers (dahlias).
5. Annuals die off completely in the winter; sowing is necessary in the spring. , fragrant tobacco, Brugmansia, etc.

About soil

Most flowers require neutral soil with pH = (6.5-7.5); Determine the acidity of the soil using indicator paper. However, eg. and azaleas require acidic soil. This is on the one hand. On the other hand, some fertilizers acidify the soil, while water-insoluble “long-lasting” fertilizers only saturate acidic soil with nutrients, because dissolve in acids. Therefore, firstly, slightly acidic soil needs to be fertilized for the winter. At the dacha or personal plot this is easy to achieve by filling the soil with homemade organic fertilizer, see below. After the melt water has melted, the still well-moistened soil is mulched, and highly acidic soils are mulched; this will also provide the flowers with calcium for the season. You can lime the soil of potted indoor or boxed balcony flowers with finely crushed egg. From raw or boiled eggs– it’s all the same, but the shells of raw eggs also somewhat stimulate plant growth.

Secondly, in fertile soils some types are missing. Chernozems, for example, have little manganese and magnesium; the same goes for loams and brown soils. In such soils you need to apply complex microfertilizers in the spring, before germination, simply according to the instructions on the package. It is very difficult to overdo it with microelements; plants do not take them greedily.

Organic

The best fertilizer for flowers is organic, in descending order of effectiveness: goat, sheep and. Pig manure is not good; it burns plants and greatly acidifies the soil. In addition to the NPK complex, organic fertilizers contain microelements and substances that promote the synthesis of phytohormones - flowering stimulants. However, natural organic fertilizers contain too much nitrogen and not enough phosphorus; besides, they all have an acidic reaction. Therefore, manure is placed in compost heaps in advance, before autumn, with the addition of phosphate rock (see below) in the range of 20-50 g per kg of manure. In the fall, before the cold weather, the areas for flowers are mulched with rotted compost.

Note: organic fertilizer for outdoor flowers can be made from food waste in different ways, see eg. video below.

Video: homemade organic fertilizers for flowers and other plants

The second area of ​​application of organic fertilizers is cultivation flower seedlings and improving soil fertility. It is good to grow annual seedlings from seeds on peat tablets: they are soaked in water until they swell, 1-3 seeds are pressed into each and placed in bowls or pots without drainage. Water without allowing the peat to dry out.
You can improve the quality of heavy soil for flowers with sawdust, shavings and tree bark. They are piled up and allowed to rot, then introduced into the soil in the fall. In the spring, before planting flowers, add 30-50 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g ammonium nitrate per 1 sq. m. Light, lean (sandy) soils are improved with lake silt - sapropel. It does not require additives, because... already contains NPK and all trace elements. Sapropel is added in the spring until the desired soil structure is obtained: the soil should be crushed by hand, like black soil. You will have to add a lot, up to half a ton per hundred square meters, if the original soil is loose sand.

Fertilizers and water

According to solubility in pure water, i.e. in a neutral environment, mineral fertilizers are divided into:

• Water-soluble - easily dissolved, but also easily leached, for example. all nitrates, superphosphate. Used individually or in combination for instant feeding. It is necessary to apply strictly according to the norm so as not to burn the plants during watering or in the rain.
• Slightly soluble - they dissolve quite well in vessels with water, but they are retained in soil capillary moisture and therefore slowly leached. Examples are the majority. Apply in spring before planting/sowing.
• Semi-soluble - dissolves in a slightly acidic environment. An example is a precipitate. They are brought in for the winter under digging.
• Poorly soluble – practically insoluble in water. Weakly and slowly dissolve in acid solutions. An example is phosphate rock. They are added to rotting manure or slurry or before winter in combination with acidifiers (see below).

What to feed flowers?

It is, of course, advisable for beginning flower growers to grow a luxurious flowerbed or clump without going deeply into the intricacies of agrochemistry and plant physiology. More than 20 types are produced on an industrial scale alone. Fertilizers chemically interact with each other and with the soil. Sometimes an experienced agronomist It can be difficult to calculate how much to apply for a given crop on a given specific soil.

However, beginners can be given recommendations on how to fertilize flowers without struggling with reference books and calculations. One of the latest discoveries in the field of small-scale agricultural chemistry will help with this - EM composting. What it is, see below for more details, but for now we will assume that we already have its products. We will also try to do without manure, which is difficult for a city dweller to access. And then, when the fruits of their labors appear in all their glory and there is an understanding of how they live and can, it will be easier to understand the nuances of agricultural science.

In the garden and flowerbed

Fertilizers for garden flowers should, first of all, be inexpensive. Dry mixtures and ready-made solutions There are a lot of NPK +7 bottles available, but even for a small flower bed, purchasing them in such forms will cost a pretty penny. Therefore, in open ground it is better to use complex organic and mineral fertilizers. As a rule, plants in open ground have enough microelements, and if necessary, they can be given additionally.

So, starting in mid-summer, we prepare humus using an EM composter. In the fall, we mulch the tree trunks of wintering perennials with it. EM composting of humus generally yields little, and there is not enough of it for the area under regenerating perennials. There, before winter, you need to add precipitate in a 1:1 mixture with potassium chloride at the rate of 25-30 g per square meter. m, and sprinkle humus evenly on top. Potassium chloride will acidify the soil. The soil for annuals is prepared in the same way, but carefully dug up. The mineral mixture is added at 30-40 g/sq.m. m.

Note: on peaty, podzolic, heavily manured, etc. acidic soils Instead of precipitate, you can add cheaper phosphate rock.

In early spring, as soon as the melt water has subsided, the acidity of the soil is checked. Excess soil is neutralized by liming, but the main (alkaline) soil now needs to be acidified, because All nitrogen fertilizers are easily soluble and nitrogen could have leached over the winter. Excess of it before budding will not ruin the color.

To normalize the soil reaction, add (composition 12-12-12) at a rate of 20-30 g/sq.m. m. The flowers are fed with the same fertilizer 2 weeks after planting, when they have taken root well. “Exciting” feeding when the first buds peck and at the very beginning of the opening, petals barely emerge from the top, they give nitroammophoska (17-17-17) at 30-40 g/sq.m. m. To accumulate vitality before winter, perennials are fed once a week or two with diammofoska (10-26-26) 15-20 sq. m. m. The predominance of phosphorus and potassium over nitrogen will better prepare flowers for winter; In addition, diammofoska contains microelements, of which the flowers have already eaten a lot from the ground over the summer. Well, at the end of the growing season, we again refill the soil of the flower garden for winter.

EM composting – what is it?

This is the fermentation of raw (not cooked!) food waste to obtain complete organic fertilizer + physiologically active liquid, EM concentrate. The design diagram of the EM composter and the procedure for operating it are shown in Fig. the best option using EM products as a starter for preparing humus from garden compost; instead of 2-3 years, this way ready-made humus is obtained in 2-3 months.

The initial filling of the EM composter is done according to option 2, adding a handful of garden soil. Then, 10-20 ml of EM liquid, option 1, is used as a seed. Potato peelings, stalks and stems of table greens, beet tops, tomato stalks, peels of any fruits, incl. bananas and citrus fruits, drunk tea, coffee grounds. If the EM composter is far from home (say, in a utility yard under a canopy), you can put onion peels and fish offal. They will provide a lot of substances useful for plants, but at first the amber will be overwhelming - just hold on. Finished EM products should smell like damp earth; stench is a sign of disrepair.

A small EM composter can be made from a couple of bottles, see figure:

The load must be pierced at least once a day 2-3 times to the plug with a pointed stick for aeration. This device does not produce EM compost; as the contents settle, waste and soil are added alternately. The EM concentrate is diluted with water 1:30 and potted flowers are watered with this fertilizer once every 2-3 weeks.

Note: full organic fertilizers for potted and container (box) flowers can be obtained from food waste and in other ways, see video:

In pots and on the balcony

In the absence of organic matter or the ability to prepare it, indoor and balcony flowers are fed with ready-made complex fertilizers. Price doesn’t play a big role here (literally drops of concentrate are used for 1 watering), but complex fertilizer for home and balcony flowers, it must be held firmly in the ground to resist leaching when overwatered and, for the balcony, from rain. Judging by the purchase statistics and reviews from flower growers, the following have proven to be the best for feeding potted and box flowers:

Ambulance

In potted flower culture, this is sometimes observed: soil analysis for nutrition and granulometry gives a picture - poke the shaft, the tarantas will grow - but the flowers wither. This means that the roots in a cramped space have lost the ability to assimilate nutrients. This phenomenon is to some extent similar to the notorious disease of the Stalin and Hitler camps - pellagra. In this case, most often You can save flowers by watering with one of the fertilizer-stimulating compounds:

• 30 g of bakery ingredients are infused in a liter of water. Water with a 1% solution of infusion (10 ml from a medical syringe per 1 liter of irrigation water). Plants “pull out” cytokinins and B vitamins.
• Wheat sourdough - soak a glass of wheat grains and leave in a warm place for a day. Add 1 tbsp. l. sugar and wheat flour until sour cream thickens, cook over low heat, avoiding the smell of burning, 20 minutes. It is better to steam for half an hour in a water bath. Cool, cover with gauze or a piece of nylon tights and leave in a warm, dark place until it sours and bubbles. 1 tbsp. Whisk a spoon in a liter of irrigation water and water the flower. The active principle is phytohormones.
• Succinic acid (sold in flower shops), 5 g per 1 liter of water. It is capable of literally pulling out the most whimsical plants from the dead, but repeated application to the same specimen is permissible no earlier than after 5 years.

After “reanimation” with these drugs, when the plant comes to life, you need to wait a month and completely transplant the flower into a large container and fresh soil, while removing rotten and dead roots. After another month, the revived plant can be fed with complex fertilizers. And, most likely, the formerly almost dead plant will bloom like it has never bloomed before.

Many gardeners think that they should only fertilize vegetable plants or fruit trees and shrubs, but other garden plants do not need feeding. But this opinion is wrong - all cultivated plants need sufficient amounts of nutrients, which they take from the soil. And if annuals can be planted in different places every year, then perennial garden flowers, growing for several years in one place, select nutrients from the soil, which should be regularly added to the soil again.

About fertilizing garden plants and what to feed flowers - this will be discussed below.

What substances are needed by garden plants?

Garden plants need the same chemical elements, as others garden crops: N, P, K, Ca, Mg, Fe, S, Mn, Cu, Zn, B, Co, Mb/ Basically, these elements enter plants through their root system, and each of them is necessary for development certain parts colors.

1. Nitrogen promotes the growth of stems and leaves. But this microelement is introduced into the soil in spring period so that the plants do not grow too actively to the detriment of flowering.
2. Phosphorus reduces the growth of foliage and shoots, but the number of buds is also less. Usually the amounts of these two elements are balanced so as not to harm the plants.
3. Potassium– an element that increases the resistance of flowers to diseases and resistance to frost. It is also what promotes the growth of the root system.
4. Magnesium promotes the production of chlorophyll. If there is not enough Mg, then the color of the foliage and shoots becomes more faded, as does the color of the buds and flowers.
5. Garden plants need the remaining microelements in microscopic doses; all of them help annuals and perennials fight diseases, accelerate the flow of nutrition to all parts of the plant, and help increase the number of buds.

Why is soil mulching necessary?

The addition of mulching substances after watering under flowering plants is very important; it performs several important tasks at once:

The following can be used as mulching elements:

• peat;
• sawdust;
• humus;
• dry leaves;
• green grass;
• gravel;
• pebbles

What is better to use as mulch: organic or inorganic substances? This must be chosen by the gardener himself, but the advantages of organics are obvious:

To the disadvantages organic look mulch can be attributed to:

1. Organic mulch must be replenished periodically, and inorganic mulch may be in tree trunk circles for years.
2. Grass or straw tends to attract mice and birds, so they should be stirred up periodically.
3. If the summer season is rainy, then the leaves, grass and straw become very wet, and this is an excellent environment for the development of fungal or bacterial pathogens.

That's why organic mulch should be as small as possible.

Types of fertilizers for garden plants

In order for garden plants to actively grow and delight their owners with their flowering, they require not only organic matter in the form of fertilizers, but also macro and microelements in the form of complex or mono fertilizers.

However, before adding, for example, organic matter, you should read which flowers cannot tolerate it, and which ones need it. Are the fertilizers applied to flowers on the street lawn different from those applied to indoor flowers? In principle, the difference is small; complex mineral fertilizers are applied to house plants, which immediately contain all the elements necessary for their growth and flowering. And for garden fertilizers, certain types of fertilizers are applied, which contain certain minerals necessary for flowers in a specific period.

Application various types Fertilizers should be carried out strictly according to the instructions, since a lack of nutrients and their excess are equally harmful to flowers. If these substances are not enough, then the plants will remain weak, the vegetative mass will grow poorly, and flowering will be sluggish. An excess of microelements and organic matter in the soil leads to their death.

How to determine whether there is a lack or excess of minerals in the soil? How and when should they be added?

Compost fertilizer, humus usually applied in late autumn. This fertilizing saturates the soil before winter cold. The same fertilizers are applied in the spring immediately before planting flower seedlings in open ground. Such fertilizing makes the soil on the site better, and root system flowers assimilates them perfectly. Liquid fertilizers organic based can also be applied in the summer.

Microelements contribute throughout summer season, only at each stage of flower growth they need different elements. Nitrogen is usually applied in early spring. It is needed so that plants quickly increase their vegetative mass. But an excess of this mineral is harmful, as the plants will bloom worse. When buds begin to appear, as well as during active flowering, superphosphate (or other preparations containing phosphorus) should be added.

Annual bushes are fed no more than twice.

The first time - 10 - 14 days after planting the seedlings in open ground (but if fertilizers were applied to the planting holes, then this fertilizing should be skipped). The next time phosphorus fertilizers are applied is during the appearance of buds. And for perennials in the fall, you should apply fertilizer containing potassium. It helps the root system prepare for winter and restore useful substances, and also stimulates the growth of flower buds for the next season.

Apply to the soil immediately after watering. In this case, the root system will not be burned by the concentrated fertilizer solution, and the nutrients will not settle in the soil. Granular fertilizers are applied before watering - mixed with soil or scattered in tree trunk circles, and only then watered so that the granules dissolve and reach the roots in liquid form.

Immediately after planting (or transplanting), flowers are not fed. Usually they are given the opportunity to adapt to a new place - at least 10 - 14 days. Also, do not apply nutrients to sick or weakened flowers.

Usually, in addition to fertilizing “at the root,” fertilizers are also applied “on the leaf.” Such spraying with a fertilizer solution is carried out in warm, dry weather (usually in evening time). Fertilizers applied to the leaves are absorbed faster than those applied to the soil.

It is better to alternate the application of organic and mineral fertilizers.

Application of organic fertilizers

Organic fertilizers include:

• completely rotted compost;
• last year's manure;
• chicken droppings;
• ash;
• humus, etc.

All these fertilizers, when they get into the soil, activate the work of microorganisms - they process chemical elements in the soil so that they are better absorbed by the root system of plants.

Among all monofertilizers containing mineral fertilizers, urea (containing more than 40% nitrogen), phosphates and superphosphates, as well as various potassium salts are most often used for fertilizing. Nitrogen fertilizers They are washed out of the soil quite quickly, especially during heavy snow melting, so they are sometimes applied several times during the spring.

Soils with high acidity have a peculiarity - phosphorus fertilizers in such soils remain in a form inaccessible to the root system. Therefore, chalk and lime (slaked or quicklime) are added to such soils along with other fertilizers to bring the pH closer to neutral.

Since many flowering annuals and perennials do not tolerate organic fertilizers well, they can only be fed with mineral supplements.

However, I would like to remind you once again that it is better to apply less fertilizer to the soil than too much. Therefore, before feeding the plants, you should carefully read the instructions and under no circumstances exceed the dosages indicated therein.

Feeding annuals and perennials garden plot- Very important element caring for them. And how strong and actively flowering the plants in the garden will depend on how correctly gardeners apply fertilizer to the soil.

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