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What are the main pros and cons of Finnish houses. We build a Finnish house with our own hands

The structure of the walls of houses built using this technology includes quite a few layers of different materials.

The first step in construction and application Finnish technology construction wooden houses- this, of course, is the installation of the frame, which is carried out according to a pre-developed plan or project.

The frame structure is assembled from boards. From the outside, the finished frame structure is covered with plywood with an antiseptic and anti-rot coating, or with OSB boards.

Next, a film (membrane) is stretched over the frame structure - it prevents vaporization. This material prevents water from entering a wooden house and protects against blowing. The membrane can also allow vapors emanating from interior space, into the surrounding atmosphere.

For the frame, the most technologically advanced would be to use a thermal profile.

After the frame has been covered with film in accordance with Finnish house building technology, finishing with material for further decoration of the house takes place. In this case, you can choose any Decoration Materials- fortunately, they are presented in a wide range on the market.

So, usually for buildings built according to Finnish technology, the finishing is made of brick, siding, or special plaster is used. It is worth noting that glass-magnesium sheets - sml - can be used as the main material for finishing the inside of a wooden house.

Naturally, the frame inside a wooden house is empty - so, it needs to be filled with insulation. In this case, basalt wool or expanded polystyrene are used. Or it could be mineral wool.

Next, a film is stretched over the frame structure, which serves as a vapor barrier. Then drywall is nailed to the frame from the inside - and plaster is applied to it.

Both ecowool and foam glass can be used as insulation materials.

So, if we turn to foreign experience, Finnish house construction technology is used to build houses up to 5 floors high. IN Russian Federation based fire safety, the construction of relatively high-rise buildings is prohibited.

Therefore, wooden houses, cottages, as well as buildings built in Russia using Finnish technology, have a maximum height of 2 floors.

The main pros and cons of Finnish houses

Step-by-step construction of a Finnish house.

The Finnish house is a one-story building that has a symmetrical gable roof. Currently, a Finnish house is a fairly widespread type of cottage.

Instructions

1 A Finnish house is most often built from laminated veneer lumber. This building material is made from selected wood. High-quality timber will for a long time preserve all the properties of solid wood. It is highly resistant to changes in humidity and biological damage.

It is worth noting his wonderful thermal insulation properties. Walls made of such material will retain heat well even in severe frosts. In summer, the house will be cool.

2 Almost all materials for the construction of a Finnish wooden house can be purchased at construction market. On this moment All of them are manufactured using proven technologies.

The necessary sets of parts are produced in the factory. Glued laminated timber parts have a special profile both in the connecting cups and on the surfaces.

3 When assembling parts, it is best to use a synthetic sealant. As a result, the timber can be laid perfectly straight. The wall will be practically windproof. This design reduces the possibility of rain moisture getting inside.

It should be noted that adjustment of parts when assembling the log house is not required. A structure made of laminated veneer lumber is practically resistant to natural shrinkage. The walls of such a house are not subject to cracking or deformation.

4 As a foundation for construction, it is best to use a concrete slab, which has a minimum difference in levels. You can build a house on a finished foundation in about 3-4 weeks. Construction materials Finnish home relatively inexpensive.

To create a home design, it is best to contact architects. They will be the ones who can make a special project. Reliable and warm, Finnish house will delight its residents for several decades, and besides, it looks very beautiful.

Finnish double tongue technology

We bring to your attention a unique Finnish technology - “Double tongue and groove”. The uniqueness lies in the fact that “Double tongue and groove” has absorbed only the best of the two most common technologies for constructing wooden houses in Russia. It's primordial Russian construction houses made of timber, with its clarity, environmental friendliness, and Canadian frame housing construction with its unique thermal and non-shrink properties.

These properties are achieved thanks to the so-called two-row laying of tongue-and-groove dry planed boards in a cut, the thickness of the board is 43 mm and its width is 130 mm. This design is very strong, since all connections are made with high precision at the factory.

The board fits into the board very tightly into the locking joint and into the longitudinal profile (tenon into groove) and does not require nailing or inter-crown seals. In this way, overall spatial rigidity is formed and we get a rigid hollow structure with fairly thick and massive wooden side walls, which no longer require finishing, do not crack, and the minimum shrinkage is 0.5-1%.

Now all that remains is to lay effective insulation in the inner cavity of the wall, but with the condition that no film is used. Such insulation, in addition to low thermal conductivity, must have vapor permeability and is not afraid of moisture. Only in this case will we end up with a warm and breathable wall. Unfortunately, all these requirements can be met by a small range of insulation materials, one of which is Ecowool insulation.

Ecowool, this is cellulose impregnated with borax, is an absolutely harmless insulation similar to wood, but in turn is not flammable, does not have a subsidence effect, in which various living creatures do not grow as it is good antiseptic. This is the material we use in our walls. Using a blowing machine, high-quality blowing into the walls is carried out, which guarantees non-shrinking properties. Fig 5, Fig 6.

It is also possible to use slab insulation that is manually laid into the walls - Shetrok insulation. Shetrok is a synthetic insulation like padding polyester, its properties are more modest, but it also does not support combustion, does not generate dust, and does not emit harmful substances, is not afraid of moisture, does not sag, all this also provides warmth and a high degree of environmental friendliness to the wall of our home.

And of course, it is important to say that this house is being built quite quickly; if we are talking about a turnkey house, as a rule, this is no more than 2 months. The cost is also less compared to others quality technologies, which will allow you to compare the cost of a finished house, finished to all standards, since this is where the catch in prices is hidden.

Of course, I would like to talk about the disadvantages of this technology. This is specific to projects where you basically need to follow the wall-over-wall principle. Long walls over 3.5 m must be tied by cutting. All this of course affects appearance, you will agree that it is specific, and it is economically unreasonable to decorate it differently, unlike frame houses, which can be decorated in any way you like.

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Classmates

A frame house is one of the most affordable and budget options for suburban construction.

But as soon as it is laid, an equally important stage begins: the device, which in such buildings has its own characteristics.

You should definitely study them before you start. construction work to avoid in the near future overhaul the entire structure.


For a frame house Frame wall structures have only two types:

  1. Bearers, which have increased resistance to impacts and mechanical loads: both vertical and horizontal. They are usually made from solid boards or giant I-beams. Doorways in load-bearing walls they are assembled using at least 2 jumpers, fastened with nails in 2 rows, which avoids their deformation.
  2. Non-structural (internal), which serve as partitions to divide a building into rooms and are not designed to support the weight of the building. The lintels above doorways in such cases must have a width equal to the width of the vertical posts and be made of material more than 40 mm thick.

Reference! Internal partitions intended for zoning living space are often made from timber measuring 40x100, since they do not require a thick layer of insulation. For load-bearing walls, materials with a cross-section of at least 50x150, and preferably 50x250, are taken in order to be able to increase the thickness of the thermal insulation layer.

Materials


What material are the walls of frame houses assembled from? If you have chosen for your home frame houses: wall material can be completely different.

It is determined not only by aesthetic properties, but also by the ability to withstand certain loads, climatic and relief features of the site, weight and other characteristics.

For the construction of wooden frame walls and partitions, the following are mainly used:

  1. Wooden beam, made from softwood or maple. Its cross-section is square in shape, and the standard size is 150x150. Thicker timber (150x200 and 200x200) is ideal for multi-storey buildings or houses with an attic.
  2. Edged board from coniferous wood. The cross section of the racks is usually 50x150.
  3. Wooden I-beam, which is two timber beams fastened with a jumper made of OSB board. It allows you to freely adjust the shelves depending on the thickness of the insulation and the size of the foundation. According to experts, the use of such material minimizes the risk of frame deformation during shrinkage of the structure and provides better thermal insulation.
  4. Materials for outdoor and internal lining frame. They are treated as standard wooden boards, and prefabricated panel-type structures made of OSB boards, hydrophobic plywood or boards. And the use of magnesite sheets is also allowed. It is important that the materials are well dried and free of cracks and defects, which can later cause shrinkage and destruction of the house. As antifungal protection, they must be treated with special antiseptic compounds.
  5. . They come in soft types - insulation based on fiberglass, basalt wool - and hard - polystyrene foam and its extruded modification - type.
  6. Decoration Materials. These include vinyl and metal siding. The latter is characterized by increased strength, is easy to install and has increased resistance to corrosion. Vinyl siding attracts with its lighter weight and large selection of colors, but is afraid of temperature changes and direct sun rays. A block house is also often used (calibrated boards with an oval transverse profile and lock connection, which in appearance completely resemble a rounded log) and imitation timber (panels with a rectangular cross-section and beveled corners). Frame houses decorated with artificial stone, acrylic coatings and decorative plaster.
  7. , designed to protect the house from blowing and moisture. She looks like roll material, resembling a film, but at the same time vapor-permeable to prevent the insulation in the wall from freezing during the winter season. Mostly for these purposes, they buy a diffusion membrane for waterproofing.
  8. Vapor barrier, which is used as a vapor barrier membrane.

Reference! According to one of innovative technologies, the supporting frame of the building is made entirely of galvanized thermal profile, and the internal insulation is shotcrete concrete or foam concrete. This makes it easy to build a strong and reliable house with a number of floors from 1 to 5.

Technologies

A frame house can be erected different ways, since today several are known effective technologies creating its walls. The most popular among them are: wall construction of a frame house using Finnish and Canadian technology. Their differences lie in the fact that, in accordance with the Scandinavian method, wall panels are assembled directly at the construction site, but construction technologies from Canada, they suggest installing a frame from ready-made SIP panels (frame-panel technology).

Finnish


Finnish looks like this:

  1. A frame made of timber is mounted on it, after which it is assembled.
  2. The panels are assembled using OSB boards, which cover the wall spans both from the inside and from the outside.
  3. A heat-insulating layer is installed, after which a subfloor is laid on the ceiling.
  4. The main components of the structure are connected to each other with metal brackets and interfloor beams are installed.
  5. On the interfloor floor, the second floor wall panels are assembled and installed vertically.
  6. The roof rafters are mounted, a waterproofing layer is secured to them and the roof is laid.
  7. Carry out interior and exterior finishing work.

Canadian

When designing a building By Canadian technology The work algorithm looks like this:

  1. Poured strip foundation, on which panels and floor beams are mounted.
  2. Beams are placed in the gaps, which are connected to each other, and the gaps are insulated using polyurethane foam.
  3. After installing the ceiling, the walls are installed, starting from the corners. In two-story houses, installation of interfloor ceilings and walls of the second floor is carried out. In this case, the panels are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws every 10-15 cm. All joints are reliably sealed using polyurethane foam. Fastening is carried out according to the tenon-groove principle, and the thermal gap between the wall panels is 3-5 mm. At the same time, window and door openings are made.
  4. The final stage is installation of the roof.

Device


What is the wall of a frame house made of?

No matter how elegant the design of your frame house is, and what expensive materials have not been used design frame wall with insulation, especially load-bearing, will be almost identical.

It is multi-layered and in construction jargon is called a “sandwich” or “pie”.

So, the frame wall: the structure consists of layers:

  1. Directly to the frame.
  2. Internal finishing layer.
  3. Vapor barrier layer.
  4. Insulation.
  5. Waterproof layer.
  6. OSB boards.
  7. Exterior decorative finishing.

Important! The internal partitions of a building are much easier to make: the frame wall diagram contains only frame posts, a thermal insulation layer, a vapor barrier membrane installed on both sides, and plasterboard or OSB board.

The right frame wall pie can be very different and depends both on the wishes and financial capabilities of the owner, and on the external conditions and internal loads to which the structure will be subjected. Let's look at the structure of the walls of a frame house in detail. The most common options:

  1. Frame wall pie with mineral wool. The correct wall pie of a frame house with mineral wool is ideal for buildings that must have good sound insulation. To do this, the wall frame is sheathed on the outside with particle boards and lined with waterproofing film on the outside. Mineral wool is attached on top of it, which can be supplemented with extruded polystyrene foam. A vapor barrier membrane layer is installed on top of the thermal insulation layer (from the inside): it is secured with a stapler. Then the lathing is installed to better retain the heat-insulating layer and the final finishing walls. It is important that moisture does not penetrate deep into the wall, since this will lead to the loss of mineral wool, which is highly hygroscopic, of its insulating properties.
  2. Pie wall of a frame house with ecowool. It is considered the safest for human health, since ecowool is completely safe and provides breathability inside the wall, preventing the formation of condensation. This insulation is lightweight and has excellent heat-shielding properties. The “pie” itself consists of the following layers: an internal finishing layer, a vapor barrier film, frame elements, ecowool (it is evenly blown over the entire surface of the wall, which avoids joints, as in the case of other insulation, and the penetration of cold into the house), a windproof membrane and external finishing layer, which separates the ventilation gap from the previous one.
  3. Pie wall of a frame house with basalt insulation. This is not a cheap solution, however, basalt wool not only has good heat and sound insulation properties, but is also resistant to vibration, mold and mildew. The composition of the frame wall in this case will be standard: interior decoration, vapor barrier, frame structure, basalt filler, windproof membrane and external finishing.
  4. Pie frame wall with OSB (or OSB). Such slabs are used to give walls greater rigidity and stability. The classic arrangement of layers, which ensures optimal moisture removal and “breathing” properties, looks like this: interior finishing, vapor barrier layer, insulation (mineral wool or other), frame supports, OSB board, windproof layer, ventilation gap, exterior finishing.
  5. “Pie” with Izoplat panels. Recently, they have been very popular among builders, since they reliably protect the wall from moisture penetration and are additional protection from the cold and completely replace wind and water protection. In a frame house, the layers of walls are arranged as follows: interior decoration, vapor barrier film, thermal insulation layer, frame racks, Isoplat panels, sheathing, external finishing.
  6. “Pie” according to the EIFS system. The structural elements of the building frame often become a kind of “bridges” of cold, which requires additionally - the formation of a polystyrene foam cocoon on their outer side. The composition of the wall of a frame house in this case will be as follows: interior decoration, vapor barrier, frame layer with mesh, rigid polystyrene foam boards PSB-S 25F, wind protection and a layer of exterior finishing.

Important! In the above versions of the “pie” windproof layer means a layer consisting of waterproofing and wind protection. Since there must be a layer of waterproofing on the outside of the wall, which protects the insulation from external moisture.

Drawings, diagrams and sections


If you are going to build a frame structure yourself, You can’t do without a detailed drawing, which will show the frame wall in section..

This will allow you to clearly imagine the location and installation order of all load-bearing structures And internal partitions and avoid the most common mistakes.

Important! The drawings clearly indicate not only the options for connecting structural elements to each other, but also the laying diagrams engineering communications.

Largely modern drawings frame house walls are made in specialized computer programs , where parameters such as type and location of load-bearing walls and partitions, number of rooms, external parameters such as humidity, type of soil, average temperature in a given area, etc. are entered.

The diagram and structure of the wall of a frame house necessarily contains the following:

  1. Type of wall and its dimensions.
  2. The nuances of the structural connection of walls with each other, as well as with the floor and roof.
  3. Location of window and door openings.
  4. The sequence of layers (thermal insulation, vapor barrier, etc.), their thickness, installation features and type of materials for each of them.

Nodes

What is a wall assembly of a frame house?

The wall of a frame structure consists of the following components, the nuances of which you should know:

1. Connecting the wall to the floor in a frame house. The frame wall posts must be nailed with 3 nails measuring 90 mm, and this is done through the post into the joist. This applies to load-bearing structures. If the wall is located on a joist frame or lintel, then the third nail is driven into them. In the case of partitions, one 90 mm nail driven into each joist is sufficient.

2. Connecting the walls of a frame house. To ensure a reliable connection of the frame walls - to connect the side and front walls of the building, it is necessary to make an additional post in the side frame, deployed perpendicular to the corner post frame structure located on the edge. This will allow you to correctly form the internal corner and simplify the process of finishing with plywood or OSB boards.

3. Corner of frame wall. Simply connecting beams with a section of 150x150 (or boards with a section of 50x150) in a corner is fraught with freezing in winter time. Therefore, the angle is made according to the 2+1 scheme. A third one is nailed to one of the outer posts of the frame structure, which is turned 90 degrees. You can also strengthen the structure by adding a fourth board.

Two posts are connected parallel to each other or at a slight angle using 5 90 mm nails with a distance of 6 cm between them. Before finishing the corner, it is necessary to put insulation.

4. Ukosina. This is one of the most important elements of the wall, which gives it spatial rigidity and avoids distortions in the structure. They are cut into both the lower and upper trim strictly at an angle not exceeding 45-60 degrees. They must be used if it is not planned to cover the panels of the house with plywood or OSB boards. It can be wooden with a section of 25x100, 50x150 or metal.

5. Window and door openings.

Important! In Canadian and Finnish technology they are amplified slightly differently, so these nuances should be taken into account.

In Canadian technology, double racks are used when creating them. Shortened racks are mounted under and above the opening, the distance between which remains the same as between the main racks. A header is placed above the opening, made of doubled or tripled boards 10-25 cm high, depending on the width of the opening and the beam load. Horizontal boards are also installed under the opening, cutting the additional rack in half: they will support the weight of the window.

In the case of doorways or the use of Finnish technology, instead of a header, a crossbar is installed - a board placed on the edge, which cuts in front bottom trim at the very top of the frame racks both inside and outside. The crossbar can be either single or triple. For it, take boards measuring 50x200 mm.

6. Connection of wall and roof. The racks are mounted strictly perpendicular to the wall, but can be parallel in partitions or on the roof gable. The beams must be monolithic, and at least 2 racks should be placed in the outer corners of the wall frame.

7. Connection between wall and ceiling. Shown above in the figure for point 1.

Photo

Sectional view of the wall of a frame house: photos are presented below.

Useful video

How to make a frame wall pie is additionally described in the video below:

conclusions

Construction of the wall of a frame house is a rather important and painstaking process, but with the desire and desire to learn and take into account any nuances, even a non-professional builder can handle it without any problems.

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Wooden architecture Scandinavian countries– this is rationality and natural harmony. Russian huts can easily be called the prototype of the Finnish house. However, nowadays the technologies of wooden architecture have gone far ahead.

Finnish house construction technology has a number of advantages:

  • wood is an ecological and rewarding material that evokes a unique feeling of comfort;
  • the walls are laid with a layer of insulation, which, in combination with natural wood, perfectly insulates from noise and even at critical low temperatures the room is dry and warm;
  • the construction of such a house takes much less time than a brick one, you obviously save on construction and interior decoration;
  • for construction Finnish houses High-quality timber is used, precisely rounded or fitted to each other, and the building looks neat and aesthetically pleasing.

Design stages

In pursuit of profit and in the fight against competitors, domestic designers are embarking on the development of housing in Scandinavian style, but, unfortunately, the end result is a low-quality wooden house, overloaded with details and far from the given architectural direction.

It is advisable to contact Finnish offices directly with many years of experience, fortunately, they have been successfully cooperating with Russian-speaking customers for a long time. The manufacturer you choose must specialize specifically in residential wooden houses, and not in garden verandas and cottages. It is desirable that the company provides a full cycle, rather than purchasing missing parts from different factories: the more diverse the set, the more difficult it is to fit and join the elements. Don't chase low prices. You are building a house in which several generations of your family will probably live.

The right foundation

Theoretically, a house can be built on any foundation, which is what was done before. In the process of evolution, concrete and stone options disappeared, leaving two leaders: USHP (insulated Swedish slab) and UFF (insulated Finnish foundation). If done correctly at the final stage of foundation construction, you will receive a finished first floor floor with built-in communications, a drainage system, electrical wiring and heated floors.

A decent contractor often comes from Finland himself to make sure that your foundation meets the requirements of the project and only after that starts delivery for construction.

Wall material

The main thing: the timber should only be harvested in winter. Felled at another time, it is exposed chemical treatment and the durability of such a log is in doubt. The world's highest quality raw materials for designing a Finnish timber house this is wood premium"A" from central Finland. The ideal option is when the lamellas are glued together from homogeneous rocks. Snow-white spruce is considered the most reliable, but capricious material to process. Its thermal conductivity is higher than other rocks. For example, 20 cm thick laminated spruce beams will provide the same thermal insulation as brickwork 2 m. Houses made of pine are called second-rate - over time it darkens, and the knots separate from wood pulp. Larch and cedar are also used.

Insulation for Finnish houses

Throughout Europe, including the Finns, basalt mineral is used for these purposes. cotton wool Rockwool, which has proven itself well. Basalt is a volcanic rock that is absolutely non-flammable and even prevents the spread of fire. In addition, it is strong, durable, sound-absorbing and thermally insulating, and is not afraid of temperature changes.

To insulate horizontal joints, vapor-permeable Illbruck tape is laid along the entire length of the crowns. It contracts under the weight of the top layer and, expanding, fills all the free space.

According to Finnish building codes, houses made of laminated veneer lumber are at least 180 cm thick, even in harsh weather conditions do not need insulation. The fact is that the quality of assembly and joining of corners is responsible for maintaining the temperature rather than the thickness of the walls.

Natural heat loss goes up through the roof, so Special attention You need to pay attention to its design and insulation. The European climate is milder than the Russian one, but there it is customary to install insulation 400 mm thick, while in Russia for some reason it is 150-200 mm.

It is preferable to have electrical heating for windows, as is done by Hatrick.

Exterior and interior of Finnish houses

A typical Scandinavian home is distinguished by its laconicism; its elegant simplicity is combined with impeccable execution. Made of logs, devoid of decor and unnecessary details, one and a half to two floors high, it has a gable roof to prevent snow from stagnating. On the first floor in front front door There is usually a terrace and above it a balcony with large windows.

Typical colors exterior finishing facade - white, light gray, beige, all natural shades of wood. Separately, cornices and platbands are distinguished.

The house, as a rule, has two entrances, each with a separate vestibule - functional element heat retention. Upon entering, we find ourselves in a spacious hall that leads to the kitchen, guest room, and office. The Finnish tradition is to have a large kitchen with dining table in the middle. On the second floor, under the roof slopes, there is a bedroom. There is often a sauna in the house. We invite you to admire the photo of the interior of a Finnish house.

Types of construction

Solid timber house

After cutting, the wood is sent to dry to prevent future shrinkage. Next, it is profiled and the surface is treated until the lining is smooth. The cross-section of logs can be square or rectangular, with or without a lock profile.

Advantages of timber:

  • all elements are already pre-cut according to calculations and do not require adjustment on site, which makes assembly easier and faster;
  • of all types, this is the most environmentally friendly method - there are no glues or resins;
  • relatively low cost due to less expensive production;
  • in the case of profiled timber, the walls do not require additional interior finishing.

Flaws:

  • shrinkage, cracking;
  • congenital defects of wood - fungus, cavities, pests living inside;
  • the need to insulate seams;
  • It is technologically difficult to remove a stable wall from non-profiled timber, which means additional supports are required;
  • The shrinkage of the house is 3-4 cm per meter of wall.

Finnish house made of laminated veneer lumber

This technology is based on turning logs from natural wood to ideal geometric dimensions. By processing on special equipment, the beams are extended using a mini-tenon and glued together up to 13 meters in length. It also happens D shape sawing, when the inner surface seems to be made of beams, and the outer surface - of rounded logs. The profile lock is designed in such a way that its spikes fit perfectly into the grooves, preventing moisture from getting in and making the wall unusually strong. Today, this method of building a house is recognized as optimal in Scandinavia and is recommended for the cold Russian climate. Conscientious manufacturers try to use only first-class glue, for example, the Finnish company Kilto, which does not contain harmful substances.

Advantages:

  • eliminates the possibility of deformation and shrinkage;
  • the density of the adhesive joint is higher than the density of wood, and this allows you to freely plan floors of any length and large-scale rooms;
  • Upon completion of the work, the house is ready for commissioning; almost no time is required for shrinkage.

Flaws:

  • higher price - about one and a half times more expensive than solid timber;
  • Due to the glue, the natural air balance of the wood is disrupted, which can lead to changes in the microclimate in the room.

Finnish frame house

There are no clearly established standards for the implementation of the frame design, which means that it is individual for each company. There are only general requirements for the material - it must be a dry planed board; wooden beams are used extremely rarely. This construction principle is the most easily erected and popular all over the world for more than five hundred years.

House kits are:

  1. Block-modular. This method does not require a frame; the house is assembled as if from cubes. The elements are assembled at the factory and delivered to the construction site. Such a kit already has a ready-made facade and sometimes interior decoration. Its only drawback is that the large dimensions of the fragments make their delivery very difficult.
  2. Highly detailed panels. Prepared sandwich panels with wooden slats, insulation, vapor barrier, doors and windows arrive at the construction site. On site, all this is assembled onto a pre-built frame, partitions are installed, floors and a roof are laid.
  3. Basic panels only. The level of completion is only the outer wall cladding. Everything else is installed on site.
  4. Pre-cut kit. All parts of the building are already pre-cut at the factory and numbered according to the project. Materials such as insulation and slabs are brought in purchased form. The “advantage” of this method is that the house can be built like a constructor with minimal use of special equipment.

Construction technology

The technology of building a frame house allows you to build it yourself. If the project has already been agreed upon, then we proceed to the foundation. Depending on the weight of the structure and the characteristics of the soil, columns or screw piles are most often used.

If you have a small house for average family, then a columnar foundation will be quite sufficient:

  1. 120 - 150 columns are prepared.
  2. At a distance of 80 cm from each other, holes with a depth of 1 m and a diameter of 20 cm are made with a regular drill.
  3. The purchased pipes are inserted into the resulting recesses, and the space around them is filled with crushed stone and gravel.
  4. Using a funnel, cement is poured into the holes.

The screw principle is also very popular precisely because the use of manual labor is valuable in it. This allows you to strictly monitor the drilling level. It is important to remember that unscrewing the pile is strictly prohibited, as the natural compaction of the soil is disrupted.

Stages of building a Finnish house

Subfloor for a Finnish house

  1. Roofing felt is laid on the base of the coating; a border is made around the perimeter from timber, which is the basis for the subfloor.
  2. In increments of about 40 cm, logs of rough wood with a cross-section of 245 x 100 mm are laid, and insulation and vapor barrier are inserted between them.
  3. Sheets of plywood 18 mm thick are placed on top. The subfloor is ready.

Walls of a Finnish house

  1. The cross section of the board is a rectangle 150 x 50 mm. To ensure reliable connections, locks are implanted into the beams and secured with self-tapping screws. The structure must be movable, since at first the house shrinks.
  2. The frame of each wall is mounted separately to the maximum flat surface. On each side you need to make jibs that support the frame frame.
  3. After installation in place, the walls are covered with boards or, in the case of a frame-panel construction, covered with sheets of non-flammable windproof material 25 mm thick.
  4. At this stage, all walls are firmly connected to the bottom beam using studs and the corner boards are bolted together.

Second floor of a Finnish house

  1. The overlap is made similarly to the first one, however, it experiences less load and it is allowed to take beams of 50 mm in height.
  2. The subfloor is covered with beams at intervals of 35 cm, insulated, a vapor barrier is laid and covered with sheets of plywood.
  3. The walls of the second level are assembled in the same way as the first.

Roof of a Finnish house

  1. Rafters 150 x 50 mm are attached to the upper beams of the walls of the second floor.
  2. The beams are covered with plywood on the inside, and with wooden sheathing on the outside.
  3. The cavities between the joists are covered with insulation and waterproofing material.
  4. Roofing material, such as ceramic tiles, is placed on the rafters.

At this stage, it is too early to say that the frame house has been built. Now it needs to be thoroughly insulated inside and out, windows and doors must be installed, communications and interior finishing must be carried out.

External insulation option

  1. Sheathing is made along the perimeter of the walls and mineral wool is laid in the gaps.
  2. The second layer is foam.
  3. The gaps between the foam sheets are filled with polyurethane foam.
  4. The next layer is vapor barrier.
  5. Both on the inside and outside, between the final coating and the insulation layer, you need to leave 25 mm gaps for natural circulation air.

Small but cozy home

The Nordic character is calm and loving exquisite simplicity. In their homeland, many Scandinavians have long gravitated towards one-story buildings. Small cottages are another type of Finnish houses. Here are the facts that speak in their favor:

  1. With the same area, such housing is much cheaper and its construction will be completed in a shorter period of time.
  2. Finishing or repair work is easier and faster.
  3. It has been proven that life at the “zero” level brings people closer to nature and seems to unite household members.
  4. An ideal option for a young family or, conversely, an elderly couple whose children live separately.

A typical project for a one-story Finnish house includes everything you need: a small living room, one bedroom, a kitchen, a bathroom and a storage room. On average, the total area of ​​such a cottage is up to 60 m².

Since the site is called “Finnish House,” then let’s start understanding the Finnish (Scandinavian) technology for constructing frame houses.

Roofing and ceilings

Considering that prefabricated house kits are mainly used in Scandinavia, the most common rafter system is a factory-produced truss system on gear plates (GRP). This solution is very beneficial for commercial construction. Precisely calculated loads, factory quality of the product and, most importantly, simple and quick installation of the roof.

Large attic trusses can be composite for ease of transportation

Farms come in a wide variety of bizarre shapes. Moreover, attic and semi-attic floors are also most often realized through trusses. In this case, the farm is actually a single whole of truss structure, attic walls and interfloor covering.

Installed trusses. Where there are 1.5 floors, attic trusses are used.

Such huge trusses are assembled using a crane and can be composited if the truss dimensions exceed the standard “transport” dimensions due to dimensional restrictions.

Small farms can be assembled without the use of equipment.

The undeniable advantage of roof trusses is that, as a rule, they do not require internal load-bearing walls. Consequently, planning possibilities are expanded.

Often, for the implementation of complex roofs, materials such as laminated veneer lumber or LVL timber are used. Usually when the task is to make some kind of long-span unsupported structure designed for a large load

The roofing “pie” absolutely always contains waterproofing, counter sheathing and sheathing. That is, regardless of whether the house is one-story with a cold attic or an attic floor, the roof is always made with a ventilation gap.

What’s interesting is that to create a ventilation gap, we use not a thick 50x50 block like ours, but a 25-30mm thick strip

Regarding roofing coverings. Unlike America, where in 90% of cases it is done soft tiles, in Scandinavia, a wide variety of types of roofing are used - metal tiles, seam roofing, tiles of all kinds (natural, composite, etc.), soft tiles...

The only thing I have never seen on Scandinavian houses is ondulin and similar materials.

Interfloor ceilings are also performed in different ways, depending on the task. Wooden laminated I-beams, laminated and LVL timber, trusses or a simple board can be used

Frame

Unlike America, in Scandinavia there are no uniform rules (building code) governing how the frame itself should be implemented. Therefore, for a particular company, the frame can be very specific. But the main elements are performed in the same way as in American frame construction. The basis of the frame, of course, is the same as in any other civilized country - dry planed board. Wooden beams are used extremely rarely, only to solve some highly specific specific problems. And then, most likely, it will not be just timber, but the same laminated timber or LVL.

One of the interesting features of the Finnish frame is the so-called “Finnish crossbar”. A board (and most often LVL timber) embedded “on edge” into the racks under the top trim. This solution allows you to do without double top trim and window “headers”, which are mandatory for use in American frame house construction.

Another feature from the Americans. Double and especially triple racks are not always used in the area of ​​window openings. This is probably due to the fact that in the American frame these boards are mainly used to support the same “header”, which in the Scandinavian version is replaced by crossbars embedded in the racks.

Companies that make large panels such as omatalo (finndomo), yukkatalo use something like I-beams for racks to combat “cold bridges.” Or combined composite racks, with a “thermal break” made of material with low thermal conductivity. It is already difficult to repeat such options in artisanal conditions. This is a solution for industrial production.

External slab cladding, wind protection and frame stiffening elements.

Another striking difference from the Americans.

In the American frame, in 99% of cases, continuous cladding with OSB3 boards is used on the outside + a wind-hydroprotective membrane on top. OSB plays a structural role - giving the frame spatial rigidity. And the membrane protects the OSB from excess moisture in case of any leaks along the facade.

In Scandinavian frames, this is an extremely rare, almost never found option. Basically, three types of implementation of sheathing, wind protection and stiffening elements can be distinguished.

  1. Exterior use of soft fiberboards (MFB). In our market, such slabs are known under the brands Isoplaat and Steico. These plates perform 4 roles at once. They give spatial rigidity to the frame, perform the function of wind protection, additional insulation and sound insulation.
  2. Facade plasterboard. This is a very common solution. The most typical option is Gyproc GTS9. Unfortunately, this type of material is not represented at all on Russian market on free sale. Knauf tried to release a trial batch, but the product did not find widespread consumer demand and production was discontinued. I hope with the development of frame housing construction the situation will change. Since this perfect solution for spatial rigidity of the frame and wind protection for minimal money.

  3. Giving rigidity to the frame with embedded jibs or rigid board materials (plywood) installed only at the corners of the building. There is no slab covering on the outside of the frame, only a windproof film.

IN Lately options began to appear using OSB in the wall, but unlike the American version, in the Scandinavian version OSB is usually installed on the inside of the room.

In addition, sometimes (but not always) in the first two options a windproof film is also placed on top.

I am impressed by this approach to wall construction, because the Scandinavians never use material with relatively low vapor transmission (for example, OSB) on the outside - due to which, from the point of view of vapor permeability, the design turns out to be more correct and “foolproof”.

On the Russian “Internet” you can often find the opinion that if you use enough for cladding soft materials type gypsum plasterboard or MDVP - then you definitely need to use jibs. Because compared to American OSB, these materials are flimsy. I don't agree with this opinion. Firstly, you need to understand in which direction these materials work in the wall. And in this direction, soft materials are very durable. In addition, what I call the “bundle of arrows principle” operates here. Perhaps slab cladding alone with these materials will not be enough, but in combination with internal and external facade cladding - it is quite enough. That is, each “layer of the wall cake” makes a small contribution to the structural rigidity and the result is quite sufficient.

Facade and interior decoration

Wood is used in 90% of façade finishing. It can be “imitation timber” in our understanding, “American”, just a board and a quarter, vertical cladding with a simple planed board in 2 layers with a “spread”, planken, etc.. The cladding can be either vertical or horizontal .

The remaining 10% are plaster and other types of facades. Vinyl siding, so popular in America, has not taken root in Scandinavia. All kinds composite panels, facing brick, also used very rarely

Any wooden facade Always done with a ventilation gap. Moreover, its implementation is not always trivial.

Another interesting feature is that the Scandinavians do not hesitate to hit the sheathing directly into the plane of the board, and not hidden, as we like to do. There are 2 points here.

  • Firstly, in most cases the facade is painted with covering (opaque) paint, which will cover these fasteners. Glazing (translucent) materials, so popular in our country, are used much less frequently.
  • Secondly, such fasteners are much stronger and a facade board nailed in this way makes a good contribution to the overall structural rigidity of the entire house.

An interesting point about painting facades. Wood is always painted with preliminary priming with a special primer. That is, 1 layer of primer and 2-3 layers of high-quality covering paint.

In addition, our compatriots are often surprised that the boards on Finnish facades are “shaggy”, as if they had not been planed. In fact, after planing the facade board, it deliberately “shags”, that is, wood pile rises. This is done so that the board absorbs more paint - and as a result, a thicker layer of protective coating is formed

This is why Finnish houses can last up to 10-15 years without requiring repainting. Priming, high-quality paint and “shaggy” boards are the key to the durability of the facade

The boards are attached to 2 nails directly into the plane. Then it will be painted over. The board is already primed at the factory

The interior finish may vary. Basically this is gypsum board with subsequent painting or gluing of wallpaper or wood. And often there is a combination of both.

Considering that the foundation is basically both the floor of the first floor and the heating system (warm water floors), the entire first floor is often laid out with tiles or porcelain stoneware.

The ceiling is usually either wood or special ceiling panels or plasterboard.

“Pie” walls and insulation

This is a big and complex topic.

There are different types of “pies”. Each company strives to come up with something of its own, super energy efficient. By the way, energy efficiency is a Scandinavian fad. Walls with an effective insulation layer of 250 mm, an attic or roof from 300 to 500 (!!) mm are not an exception, but the norm.

The main insulation is mineral wool insulation. Paroc is very popular (support for domestic manufacturers), and various glass wools such as Ursa or Isover are also popular only from local, smaller manufacturers. Cellulose ecowool is a niche product. Most likely, this is due to the peculiarities of its use, since ecowool insulation is difficult to “build in” into the factory cycle.

A common option is when vertical surfaces are insulated mineral wool, and the ceilings and attic are made of ecowool, which the owner himself buys in the store and rents a blowing machine there.

There is always a vapor barrier! And basically it’s simple polyethylene film 200 microns. Some “branded” vapor barriers are rarely used.

A typical Finnish wall "pie" looks something like this (from outside to inside)

  1. Facade board
  2. Ventilation gap
  3. Facade gypsum plasterboard or MDV or simply windproof film
  4. Main frame with insulation
  5. vapor barrier
  6. additional layer of insulation. For example, horizontal lathing + insulation.
  7. GKL or other material for interior decoration

Compare with typical American

  1. Siding
  2. OSB + wind protection
  3. frame with insulation
  4. vapor barrier

Apart from the differences in slab materials on the outside of the wall, the main difference is the presence of a ventilation gap on the outside and an additional gap with insulation on the inside.

With the first, everything is clear, wood, a material more critical to moisture than vinyl board and a ventilation gap for it, is more of a necessity than a whim. Unless, of course, a long-lasting, reliable system is considered. By the way, wooden siding in America is also installed with a ventilation gap.

An interesting difference is in point 6 of the Scandinavian “pie”.

A lathing is made on top of the vapor barrier (usually horizontal) in which communications (water, electrical) are carried out and this gap is insulated

We receive several bonuses at once

  • The energy efficiency of the structure increases due to an additional, cross-layer insulation
  • It is very convenient to carry out communications in the gap, without drilling into the posts
  • Potential damage to the vapor barrier circuit is minimized since it does not need to be pierced to allow pipes and wires to exit.

By the way, such a lathing gap, albeit without insulation, is usually present on ceilings. It is very convenient to carry electrical wiring and other communications in it.

Jetta Talo's "Super Effective Pie"

Quite a typical “pie” with ecowool insulation and imitation of “cuts” of a wooden house on the outside. The sheathing inside is vertical - in order to immediately place the imitation timber horizontally.

Windows made of metal-plastic profiles, popular in Germany and here, have not taken root in Scandinavia.

Basically, the following window design is used here

The window is double glazed, the internal frame is wooden, with a single glazed unit. External, can be either wooden or metal, with one glass (in more energy-efficient options, also wooden frame and double glazing). The design of the windows itself is such that both sashes open inward at the same time, for which a special connector with a sliding mechanism is responsible.

This is probably the hardest part to repeat. Scandinavian house. Original windows in Russia are, to put it mildly, obscenely expensive. There are many options for “analogs”, but again, either the price is significantly higher than the usual metal-plastic or the quality is lame, and on both legs.

Heating, ventilation and other communications

Heating is usually water-based, through a system of underfloor heating installed at the foundation stage. Radiators can only be installed on second floors.

The coolant can be heated by an electric boiler or any other boiler for water heating. Recently, it has also become very popular to use heat pumps of all types. Moreover, their implementation is actively popularized at the state level.

IN small houses and on the second floors (instead of radiators) ordinary electric convectors are also very popular.

Everything is clear with water and sewerage - there are no special differences here.

The electrical wiring is hidden, running in the gaps on the inside outer wall or above the ceiling. American method with drilling racks and laying wiring in them, usually done only in partitions.

As in America, most often no corrugations or other protective “covers” are used for wiring. Although this depends on the manufacturer. As far as I understand, the emphasis is on a competent engineering calculation of the home’s electrical network, with all the necessary automation, high-quality wire, etc. The size of the electrical panel, even in a small Finnish house, can amaze the unprepared mind of the Russian average person, accustomed to the “three plugs” next to the electricity meter.

What is noteworthy is that, despite such a “careless” approach from the point of view of the Russian PUE, the statistics of fires due to electrical wiring failure or electric shock are several times lower. So... it's not about the corrugation.

For example, in the maximum version, this is a full-fledged supply and exhaust ventilation system with heat recovery.

Wiring of a complete ventilation system

But in simpler houses (especially in Norway and Sweden) there are also more budget options. Supply valves directly within the walls of the house and centralized mechanical hood from kitchen areas, bathrooms and saunas.

The simplest ventilation option. Inflow through the “windows” and exhaust by a fan or exhaust unit from the control room and kitchen area

This option is less energy efficient, but much cheaper.

Is it possible to make a frame house using Finnish technology here?

Of course you can! After all, even a panel house kit differs from pre-cut only in that the panel is assembled not at a construction site, but in a warm workshop of a factory. And pre-cut differs from regular construction right on site only in that the frame parts are pre-cut. But you can cut them according to the design at the construction site!

Of course, not all elements can be repeated - for example, tricky Omatal racks with a thermal break can be made in makeshift conditions, but this will be a significant waste of time and money.

But making a simple frame with cross-insulation from the inside, for example, as Kastelli does, will not pose any problem.

In other words, if you have a project, “direct hands” and the desire to do it well and carefully, and not just somehow, building a “copy” of a Finnish house is a completely feasible task. And you can choose the “donor”, ​​that is, the layout and appearance of the house, by reading the article “

about the author

Hello. My name is Alexey, you may have met me as Porcupine or Gribnick on the Internet. I am the founder of the Finnish House, a project that has grown from a personal blog into a construction company whose goal is to build a high-quality and comfortable home for you and your children.

Modern residential buildings can be built using a variety of technologies. But a special place is occupied by the so-called ones, which turn out to be very warm, attractive, and inexpensive. Let's consider the construction of frame houses using two common technologies: Finnish and Canadian.

Finnish frame house construction technology

Finnish frame construction is the construction of residential buildings using classical wood technology. Used for construction wooden beams With different sections, which form the frame of walls, ceilings and roofs. After this, the frame houses are sewn up on the outside using plywood or OSB boards, and the walls are insulated.

Finnish frame technology is not very complicated, although it is recommended to use only experienced specialists to build a house.

The construction process itself is as follows:

  • First you need to lay a foundation on the selected area. In this case, it is possible to construct a shallow strip, columnar or combined columnar-strip foundation;
  • after this, the assembly of the floor for the first floor of the building begins. Beams with a cross-section of 245x100 mm are used for construction. The step for installing beams should be up to 400 mm; after installation, the surface must be covered with moisture-resistant plywood or OSB boards up to 18 mm thick. This creates a subfloor for the first floor;
  • then construction continues by assembling the wall frame. For this, a board with a cross-section of 145x45 mm is used; a tongue-and-groove system is used for fastening; additionally, self-tapping screws, nails, and metal toothed plates are used. The frame must be assembled on a horizontal surface, after which it is raised and installed in the required vertical position. Until all the walls of the house are ready, you need to organize their support using simple wooden beams;
  • construction technology assumes that the walls of the house will be covered with plywood or other slab material based on natural wood. It is necessary to lay insulation between the frame posts before the final lining on both sides, and provide for the laying of utility lines, since this will be very difficult to do later;
  • After assembling the walls of the frame, they must be fastened using special bars and studs, ensuring maximum reliability of the structure
  • After the first floor is ready, it is necessary to begin assembling the floor. Frame technology assumes that for this purpose beams will be used, the cross-section of which is 245x50 mm, the pitch of the beams is up to 350 mm. After installation, the frame must also be covered with plywood 18 mm thick and insulated;
  • if the project has a second floor, then the frame assembly technology is no different from installing the first floor. At this stage, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a staircase to the second floor, which may have the most different design. Windows are inserted as the floors of the house are built;
  • The rafters, due to their low weight, can be assembled directly on the ceiling of the second floor; frame technology allows this. For beams, take a board with a section of 150x50 mm. After construction rafter system it is necessary to arrange the sheathing and begin laying the selected roofing material.

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Canadian construction technology

Prefabricated construction technology, which is also known as Canadian or construction from SIP panels, actually applies to frame houses very conditionally. This is more of a frame-panel technology. In this case, the frame of the future building is assembled not only from individual posts and beams, but also from completely finished panels, which are a pie of two OSB panels and a layer of polystyrene foam insulation between them. This design is not only very durable, but also warm.

SIP panels are assembled only in the factory; you cannot make them yourself. But you can order a project from the manufacturer, and he will prepare ready-made panels and other construction elements. The provided project indicates a diagram for assembly; all panels have appropriate markings, which makes the work simple and relatively quick.

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Pros and cons of Canadian technology

Modern frame construction technologies have not only advantages, but also disadvantages, which influence the choice of construction method. Let's consider the positive and negative sides construction using Canadian frame house technology.

Advantages:

  • The construction process is relatively inexpensive, about 3 times less than for building a brick house. In addition, it must be taken into account that such construction already involves the installation of utility networks, a heat insulator, a roof, and a heating system;
  • The frame house turns out to be light, but very durable. It does not exert critical loads on the ground, that is, it can be built even on the most unfavorable soils for construction. For such a house, a lightweight foundation is needed; often a shallow strip or regular columnar foundation is sufficient;
  • The thermal insulation of such a house is excellent; it is not always possible to perform such insulation for a concrete or brick building, even using a thick layer of thermal insulators;
  • to build a house it takes only 4 to 8 weeks, that is, in two months you can get a completely ready-to-live-in structure;
  • Before construction, the wood is treated with special antiseptics and fire retardants, that is, the house becomes resistant to pests and high temperatures.

Flaws:

  • When designing a house, great attention should be paid to ventilation;
  • the need for treatment with fire retardants.
  • many opponents frame construction they claim that such houses are a fire hazard, they burn easily. In reality, everything is completely different; expensive brick houses can also burn, although wood is a more flammable material. But impregnation reduces the flammability rate to a minimum, although this slightly increases the cost of construction;
  • When installing electrical wiring, all requirements of the project must be strictly observed. Often you need to call a professional electrician; you cannot rely on your own strength if you are not confident in the result.