DIY workbench. Drawings and step-by-step instructions

For work in a home workshop, it is advisable to have a workbench. It can be made of wood or metal. The first option is cheaper and much easier to make. Second type similar equipment more difficult to manufacture, but much stronger and more durable. How to make a workbench? What materials and tools are needed for this? To understand these issues, consider two structures: the first is made of wood, and the second is metal.

A metal workbench is made more complicated than a wooden one, but it is of better quality and more reliable.

DIY workbench - general provisions

First you need to decide on the height of the table. A home handyman should calmly perform work in a standing position and not slouch. Therefore, when designing a workbench, you need to focus on the height of its table of 80-85 cm. Next, determine the configuration, which depends on the equipment used by the master and the devices he uses. This number includes clamps, vices, and various stops. When placing them on the tabletop, it is necessary to take into account which hand this person most often uses, that is, he is right-handed or left-handed.

The size of the workbench depends on the space allocated for it. It is desirable that its dimensions be within the following limits:

• length - 1.9-2.4 m;
• width - 90-95 cm;
• height 80-85 cm.

Under the workbench you need to install cabinets for storing tools and materials. You need to decide whether the structure will be stationary or whether it is advisable to remove it from the workshop from time to time. In the second case, the table is made of a material with less thickness, and its lid and legs must be collapsible.

The workbench should be installed in a well-lit place (near a window), but lamps should also be installed to illuminate the evening time. Placed next to the table electrical sockets for drills and other tools. Wiring must be done using a metal or plastic pipe.

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DIY wooden workbench

Based on the above requirements, we will design a wooden table. For its main frame and legs, you can use a beam with a section of 10 X 8 cm, and for connecting jumpers - 10 X 6 cm. For the tabletop, use boards with a thickness of 45 to 60 mm or solid chipboard sheet(preferably laminated). Old ones are often used as table covers. wooden doors. The material should be chosen from hardwood, for example, oak or beech.

To equip the future workbench, you need to select a vice (preferably 2 pieces). The technology for creating a workbench is as follows:

1. Using a saw, we cut the main parts from the timber - parts of the frame, legs and lintels.
2. The base is assembled from four parts. It is knocked down with nails or done with bolts. You can make them in “tongue and groove”. The place where the parts are connected must be glued. When creating a collapsible version, the frame can be fastened with metal angles.
3. Then the legs are attached to the resulting frame, and in order to obtain the required rigidity, horizontal jumpers are inserted between them and a drawer is provided. They should be made at a height of 45 cm from the floor - they are well suited for installing shelves and tool boxes.
4. The evenness of installation and the size of the parts must be checked after each assembly operation with a level.
5. The design will be rigid; if possible, one side of the frame should be attached to the wall or diagonal jumpers should be made between the legs.
6. When assembling tabletops from individual boards, they fit tightly together so that there are no gaps. The size of the cover should be 8-12 cm larger than the dimensions of the frame. To do this, three bars are laid on the floor (they must fit inside the frame) at a distance of 45-60 cm from each other and tabletop boards are nailed or screwed to them.
7. The table cover is carefully sanded and then covered with drying oil.
8. It is attached to the frame using metal angles.
9. Then install the vice, screwing it to the table with bolts through the holes made.
10. Stops are also installed there - purchased or homemade.
11. Install shelves for parts and fasten them with screws.

Such a workbench table is called a carpenter's table, and it can be made from wood in a few days. It is convenient and quite reliable when processing quite large parts made of wood or plastic. It can also be used to process small metal products. For a cottage or garage it is advisable to have more reliable table, the manufacturing technology of which will be given below.

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How to make a workbench from metal

This type of equipment is made on a metal frame. To assemble it, you need to be proficient with the tool and have a lot of patience. This is the so-called metal workbench, which will allow you to work with parts from different materials. All the recommendations mentioned above are also suitable for it.

The table has a durable metal frame and a lid with sides on 3 sides. The tabletop is made of plywood or MDF and is additionally covered with a metal sheet. She shouldn't have sharp protrusions. The table is equipped with drawers with guides. They are needed for storing tools and large parts.

We make a frame from angles (steel), which are cut using a grinder. They should be 2.5-3 cm thick and have dimensions of 30 X 45 or 44 X 45 mm. To attach the tabletop to the frame you will need a metal strip. The table cover can be made from boards up to 60 mm thick and 12-15 cm wide.

It will then need to be covered with metal sheets (galvanized).

They are bought at construction market. For the described design, their thickness is 2 mm. The production of a workbench is carried out using the following technology:

1. The table frame parts are cut from squares and joined by welding. The structure is reinforced with additional stiffening ribs, which are fixed at a height of 10 cm from the floor and the same amount from the plane of the tabletop.
2. Square metal plates are welded to the legs to stabilize the future workbench.
3. A frame for the workbench cover is made from 5 x 5 cm corners - it should be 20 cm longer than the previously assembled frame with legs.
4. Then strips and corners are attached to the tabletop blank, which can be used to install a protective screen.
5. They drill holes in them with a drill - the tabletop boards will then be screwed there. For this purpose, screws with a countersunk washer are used.
6. Assemble the table plane from the boards.
7. They are covered with galvanized sheets of metal along holes that are drilled in advance.
8. If you plan to make shelves or drawers, then you will need to weld additional strips for them.
9. Boxes can be welded according the right sizes yourself or buy ready-made ones - the main thing is that they are installed on guides and have a stopper to prevent them from falling out.
10. Place a vice on the finished table and, to eliminate corrosion, prime its entire surface and then paint it.

To use a finished metal workbench, you need to take into account several recommendations:

• Always follow safety regulations to protect against injury and keep your workbench in good working order.
• never try to process large metal parts on a carpentry bench;
• use a vice when processing parts and do not do this while holding the product in your hands;
• use the entire range of products designed for metal processing when working special devices, since the weight of parts can be more than 300 kg;
• It is advisable to make a workbench with a bedside table, and attach a pocket to the side of the table where you can collect garbage;
• always clean thoroughly workplace after finishing processing the product and turn off electrical appliances, do this before starting work.

Having taken into account all these tips, you can start working on a homemade metal workbench.

Design and purpose of the workbench

A carpentry workbench is a work table for manual and machining wooden products. The design and ergonomics of a classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and perform basic carpentry operations with maximum convenience: making wooden parts, assembling structures, coating them with finishing compounds. Traditional carpenter's table designed for working with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. To process longer workpieces, use a carpenter's workbench.

A table for carpentry work consists of a bench board (cover) and a bench (supporting frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.

There are holes in the table top and the wooden jaws of the vice. They are designed for installing clamps and stops different sections and heights.

Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, the part is placed between them and pressed with the screw mechanism of the vice. This way the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness of the wooden part, use a stop of appropriate height that will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.

How to choose the optimal workbench height?

The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. The optimal table height is selected based on the height of the craftsman. If, standing at the workbench, your palms rest freely on its lid, then the size has been selected correctly. At such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.

What materials are best to make the structure from?

A carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to large loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are ensured not only by the features of the fastening units, but also the type of materials used.

Coniferous wood is traditionally used to make the base. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the bench board must be dry (humidity about 12%) without knots and other defects.

About making a workbench cover

Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to purchase a ready-made glued board, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the funds saved.

When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the lid: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with a thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately together with the workbench.

Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls

The sidewall design consists of two legs (B), drawers and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through-glued tenon.

The figured cutouts of the drawers and supports (detail A) are cut out on band saw followed by sanding the edges.

In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, markings are made on the legs for the tenons of the prongs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.

On the outside of the legs, a conical recess is machined for the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.

Sawing out tenons and eyes

Spikes and eyes are made on a sawing machine or manually, guided by basic principles creating tenon joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a perfect fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared, flat surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.

Side panel assembly

Parts A and B are glued together to form a finished joint. After drying, any excess glue that appears is carefully cleaned off with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is sanded.

In the center of the glued drawer, drill a 19x38 mm hole for a dowel (L) to fix the workbench cover.

Manufacturing of pedestals and underbench shelves

According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for the legs (part C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As with the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw.

The connection of the legs with the sidewall is made detachable using a bolt tie with a transverse nut. To do this on inside the legs are milled into a recess for cross nuts d25 mm and depth 32 mm. A 14X95 mm hole is drilled at the ends of the legs. At this stage it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90°.

The support strips (parts D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 22 mm from the upper edges of the supports.

According to the dimensions specified in the “General detailing” drawing, the planks of the underbench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersunk at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.

Installation of the bench cover

On the back side of the bench board, blind holes d19 mm and depth 32 mm are drilled for dowels (L).

Using a drill bit d19 mm, through holes are made on the cover for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the lid. All holes are chamfered. The stops should fit easily into the sockets and not have any play.

Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure clean holes at a perfectly right angle. It won’t be difficult to make such a guide yourself, if you have a piece of timber on hand.

Installation of a bench vise

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to buy a carpenter’s vice ready-made. In this case, you will receive the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, get rid of unnecessary headaches when installing them.

Manufacturers of bench vices try to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we will look at the installation diagram of typical structures. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of a non-standard bench vise.

Vise jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are cut from hardwood. After this, holes are drilled for the guide rods, lead screw, sockets for bench stops and holes for mounting screws.

The rear jaws of the front and rear vices are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.

Wooden linings (part K) are cut to fit the size of the vice. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.

Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces of masking tape and a soft pencil.

It's no secret that a well-equipped workplace is the key to successful plumbing, electromechanical or installation work. The main item in a garage or workshop, around which the entire work area is arranged, is the workbench. This desktop must have the necessary functionality, be durable and reliable. Purchase finished product in a retail chain can cost a pretty penny, so it’s better to make it yourself. This will make it possible not only to save money, but also to get a garage table in exact accordance with the requests for functionality and placement.

DIY workbench. How to do it?

Below we will tell you how to make a wooden or metal workbench with your own hands. The presented designs do not require the use of any scarce parts or the use of expensive equipment, and during the installation process you can get by with minimal carpentry and plumbing skills.

Making a workbench with your own hands (from wood)

Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands has a lot of advantages, which include the fact that you can arrange the locations of vices and other devices in advance, think about the quantity and location drawers etc.

Required tools and materials

To make your own workbench, you need to prepare the following tools:

• electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
• electric drill and set of drills for wood and metal;
• carpenter's square;
• roulette;
• bubble level;
• set of wrenches.
• When stocking up on materials, be sure to ensure that the wooden parts do not have cracks or knots. To get started, you will need:
• bars for support legs 100x100 mm;
• two plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm (OSB can be used). In this case, one sheet will go on the table top, and the other on the lower shelf.
• boards 50x150 mm, from which the frame will be mounted;
• bolts (it is best to use furniture bolts, with a square part that prevents them from rotating in wooden parts);
• washers and nuts;
• self-tapping screws

To facilitate assembly and avoid errors when cutting material, it is better to make drawings of the workbench and indicate on it the dimensions of each part.

DIY workbench drawings

DIY workbench. Step-by-step instruction

First of all, you need to make top frame underframe. To do this, boards of the required length are sawn off in accordance with the drawing.

Using self-tapping screws, long and short parts are fastened in such a way as to form a frame rectangular shape. After this, measure the distance to its middle along the long side, where a spacer bar is installed. The same 50x150 mm board is used, which is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws at both ends.

DIY wooden workbench. Photo

Support legs The workbench is made of 6 identical bars. To attach them to the upper frame, long bolts with nuts and washers are used. To install the support, place the block in the corner of the frame and drill two through holes through the leg and side board. Then the connections are tightened using bolts and nuts.

To achieve the required structural rigidity, lower boards are installed. By the way, these same details will also serve as the basis bottom shelf. To do this, in full accordance with the workbench drawings, 4 wooden parts with a cross-section of 50x150 mm are sawn off.

To secure the bottom boards, measure 30 cm from the edge of each support. At this height, one part is attached to the three rear legs of the structure, and from the front, the board is attached between the middle and side supports on the side where it will be installed additional shelf.

Two short boards are mounted at the same height on the sides of the workbench.

Using an electric jigsaw or hacksaw, from OSB sheets or plywood cut into parts for table tops. It is attached flush to the top of the desktop using self-tapping screws. To protect the surface of the workbench from damage, a layer of hardboard is laid on top of the plywood, which can be easily replaced with new material as it wears out. To install the bottom shelf, measure the distance from the middle to the outer legs. The material is cut to this size and with a jigsaw or hacksaw, cutouts are made in its corners for the support legs. Attaching the shield to the lower base is carried out in the same way as installing a tabletop.

To obtain stability of the frame structure, when attaching the supports and assembling the frame of the bench, be sure to use carpenter's square. After installing the workbench, use a bubble level to check its horizontal position. If necessary, the level can be changed by placing small pieces thin plywood under the legs.

DIY workbench. Step-by-step instruction

After assembly is completed, the workbench is impregnated with a special protective composition, varnished or painted.

A small workbench for the home with your own hands

The design of the mechanic's workbench proposed below will greatly facilitate metalworking and installation work not only in a small garage, but also on the balcony, in the corner of a utility room, etc. With all the functionality and convenience of a full-size workbench, it won't take up much space and can hold a variety of tools and gadgets in its drawers.

Tabletop small workbench It is made from two sheets of plywood glued together with a thickness of at least 18 mm and has dimensions of 1500x600 mm. To strengthen the table cover, it is additionally thickened at the edges with two layers of plywood sheet, giving a thickness of 72 mm.

Considering that plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is not the cheapest material (the cost of one sheet is about 1000 rubles), you can save a little if you buy a full-size sheet with dimensions of 2440x1220 mm. Unfortunately, this material is not enough to make the reinforcing strip that is located around the perimeter of the lid, so you will have to additionally look for a small piece of plywood sheet. Otherwise, the design of the tabletop will have to be changed.

When starting to build a small carpentry workbench with your own hands, prepare following tools and materials:

• rule at least 2 m long;
• Circular Saw;
• carpenter's square;
• notched spatula with tooth size 2x2 or 3x3 mm. You can buy a ready-made tool or make it yourself using a grinder;
• screwdriver or set of screwdrivers;
• spanners;
• good wood glue, for example, “Moment Joiner”
• plywood 18mm thick;
• wooden beam 40x60 mm;
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts, nuts, washers.

In addition, to make a workbench yourself, you need to acquire good carpentry clamps, without which gluing plywood sheets will be problematic. If it is not possible to purchase a quality tool, you can use inexpensive Chinese clamps, of which you will need twice the quantity.

The process of making a workbench with your own hands begins with covers, onto which a strip 1520 mm long is cut from a sheet of plywood 2440 mm long. By sawing this part, we obtain elements measuring 1520x610 mm to strengthen the sides of the lid. Then, as a rule, the plane of the plywood sheets is checked in order to orient them with their convex surface inward when gluing.

The next stage will require maximum concentration and accuracy - within a couple of minutes you need to evenly distribute wood glue on the surface of one sheet of plywood. If you feel that lack of experience will not give you the opportunity to cope with this job in such a short term, then use for connection wooden parts furniture glue PVA. It has no time restrictions and can be applied with a simple paint brush. Having prepared clamps and boards in advance to distribute the load over the entire plane, lay them on three boards bottom sheet, and after applying the adhesive, cover it with the top plywood board.

Having installed pressure boards on top, tighten the structure with clamps, constantly monitoring the flatness using the rule. It will not be possible to press the place in the center of the tabletop with a clamp, so it is left without load.

When gluing a board from several sheets of plywood, you can do without clamps if you place the structure on flat surface and press evenly over the entire plane with some kind of weight. After the glue has dried, the clamps or weights are removed and the next stage of making a workbench with your own hands begins.

So that the tabletop has a strict geometric shape when cutting it parquet flooring you have to be very careful. The rule can be applied as a guide bar for guiding a saw. When cutting the tabletop to dimensions of 1500x600 mm, maintain 90° angles using a carpenter's square or using the factory angles left over from cutting plywood as a template. Remaining scraps plywood board cut into strips 150 mm wide. They will be needed to reinforce the perimeter of the tabletop, so glue them along the entire edge of the tabletop in two layers. In this case, the upper strips should overlap the joints of the lower sections of plywood.

For the manufacture of underframes timber with a cross section of 40x60 mm is used. In this case, the drawers and legs are made from solid lumber, and the supports are glued together from two pieces and one whole beam. The height of the workbench is chosen taking into account your height, since there should be no inconvenience or discomfort when using it. In our case, the height of the workbench from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop is 900 mm.

Next, glue the legs and assemble two frames. In this case, it is important to maintain the perpendicularity of the connections, since if they deviate from right angle the geometry of the structure will be disrupted. It will be easier to achieve this condition if, even at the trimming stage, the angles of all parts are strictly 90°. In our workbench, the frame width is 900 mm, and the height of the support legs is 830 mm. The gap from the floor to the bottom rung should be 150 mm.

After the glue has dried, the frames are mounted on the tabletop and secured with clamps. Then the legs are set strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the bottom surface of the plywood panel and another set of legs and drawers are cut out. To fasten the structure to the tabletop, use 8x120 mm self-tapping screws.

The stability of the workbench can be increased if the legs and drawers are additionally fastened with the same screws. Choosing a recess for the head of the hardware feather drill, provide aesthetics to the joints.

The workbench is almost ready. If desired, you can make a box for storing tools in its underframe.

DIY metal workbench for the garage

A workbench made of steel has the necessary strength and reliability required when working with metal products. This desktop can add functionality to any garage or workshop.

Materials and tools

To start making a workbench for your garage with your own hands, you should acquire the following plumbing tools:

• angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
• welding machine;
• building level;
• electric jigsaw;
• drill with a set of drills;
• screwdriver;
• measuring tool.

DIY metal workbench drawings

Some materials needed for a workbench can be found in the garage, and the missing parts can be purchased on the construction market. You will need:

• steel corners 50x50x4 and 40x40x2;
• profile pipe 60x40x2;
• steel strip 40x4 mm;
• steel sheets 2200x750x2 mm;
• boards 50 mm thick;
• 15mm plywood and drawer guides;
• metal screws and bolts.

In addition, prepare paint and rust converter to make the product look aesthetically pleasing and protect the metal from moisture.

Step-by-step instructions for making a metal workbench

Cutting the material. Cut into frame profile pipe. Steel angle is used to strengthen the structure and edging the tabletop. The metal strip is needed as guide elements for the side panels and for making table drawer brackets.

Frame welding. A rectangular tabletop frame is mounted from pipes 2200 and 750 mm long, connected in pairs. At the same time, it is taken into account that on top of the frame it will be necessary to weld the corners into which the boards of the working surface are laid. To strengthen the frame, sections are welded every 400 mm steel pipes as stiffeners.

How to make a workbench with your own hands from metal. Photo

At the edges of the table, support legs 900 mm long are mounted by welding, which are reinforced at the bottom with jumpers from a corner or profile pipe.

The frames of the workbench drawers are welded to the legs on both sides.

Corners for edging are installed on the tabletop frame, and then secured with a welding joint.

From a corner 2200 mm long and 4 corners 950 m long, a sheathing of a power vertical panel for tools is arranged.

The finished frame is strengthened brackets made of steel bars, which are welded to its sides. To strengthen you will need 24 elements. Additionally, it is necessary to drill holes in each strip for mounting the side and rear plywood walls.

Plywood is cut into parts to make boxes, after which they are assembled using self-tapping screws. The number of drawers and their location depends on the specific need and personal preferences of the owner.

After assembling the drawers, metal strips with holes for attaching the slides are welded to the sides of the frame.

All welding seams and sharp corners are passed with a grinder with a grinding wheel installed, and rusty areas of rolled metal are cleaned with a metal brush attachment.

The metal frame is treated with an anti-corrosion compound and painted with weather-resistant paint.

The boards are cut to the length of the tabletop and placed in a frame made from a corner. To prevent rotting and damage to wood by insects, the boards are treated antiseptic composition.

The lumber is laid in the prepared bed, leaving 2-3 mm gaps between the wood and the metal to allow the wood to expand when swelling. After this, the boards are screwed with self-tapping screws.

Upper steel sheet treated on both sides with a rust converter, and after drying, attached to wooden tabletop self-tapping screws.

The table drawers are painted and installed on the guides, and the side and back plywood trim is attached.

After the workbench is made, a vice and other things are installed necessary equipment, attach hooks to place the tool.

What is a workbench

A workbench is a table designed for work related to the manufacture and installation of products made of wood, metal and other materials. Workbenches are often additionally equipped with equipment for fastening workpieces, drawers and shelves for storing tools and accessories. Depending on the intended purpose, there are carpentry and metalworking workbenches for working with wood and metal, respectively. Work tables for workshops and garages can be single or multi-seat. Workbenches designed for one workplace have a width of up to 0.8 m and a length of up to 1.5 m. The dimensions of multi-person benches increase according to the number of people working at them. The distance of the working surface from the floor is usually 0.8 - 0.9 m, however, there are also designs with adjustable height. Workbenches are most often made of metal or wood, and their tabletops are covered with sheets of plywood, hardboard, galvanized sheet, boards and other materials.

For home craftsmen various types work simply requires a workbench. You can buy it, but this option can be expensive; it is better to make it yourself. And now we will discuss in detail how to make a metal workbench with your own hands. After all, if you adjust its design to your needs, it will be much better and more convenient than its factory counterpart.

Workbench - what is it?

For convenient work with wood, metal or other materials, use a workbench. It is a table that is massive enough to withstand enormous mechanical load due to manual processing of the object. The workbench can be carpentry, plumbing and carpentry.

Materials for workbenches

Workbenches can be made of wood or metal. The first option is ideal for a carpenter, and the second for a mechanic. Often both metal and wooden workbenches They are collapsible, which greatly simplifies their transportation.

What workbenches are used for?

DIY workbenches, assembled with your own hands, can be excellent assistants for installation, adjustment, straightening, finishing, and also for any purpose. Such equipment is used everywhere: from garages and utility rooms, to maintenance services and enterprises. industrial type. The design of any workbench can be equipped with the necessary additional elements, such as a vice and lighting units. In addition to them, craftsmen often install other additional devices necessary for work.

Equipment such as DIY workbenches can significantly increase work efficiency, while taking up very little space in the room. They are often designed taking into account individual works that will be carried out, and even the area of ​​the room for production or repair is taken into account. If there is little space, then you can make a smaller workbench, for example, with one cabinet.

Structural elements of a metalworking workbench

A metalworking workbench, assembled with your own hands, must have a fastening element for convenient processing of objects. To store tools, it should have drawers where you can put everything. In addition, for convenient work of the master, the structure must be adjustable in height.

The frame of the workbench, which is called the workbench, as well as the tabletop are its main elements. The first part is made of pine, and the second uses hardwoods such as ash, oak and beech. The thickness of the tabletop should be between 60-80 mm. The width can be up to 500 mm, it all depends on the work that will be performed on this workbench.

Before you make a bench with your own hands, you need to decide whether it should be collapsible or stationary. If you are planning a structure, for example, for a garage, then you can make it monolithic. In the case when you need to create a workbench that you plan to take to the dacha in the summer and then bring back, then it will be more convenient to make it collapsible. In general, everything is worth thinking through in advance.

Often they make a workbench with their own hands on a metal frame, welding it from pipes. Then the boards that serve as the tabletop are fixed on this base. For ease of operation, they need to be upholstered with linoleum, sheet aluminum or regular plywood. This is done so that small parts, such as screws or nuts, cannot get between the boards, where they will be difficult to remove. In addition, the lid should be upholstered with sides so that parts do not roll off it.

To store tools or other necessary items, drawers are installed under the tabletop. Each master chooses their sizes individually, based on the items that will be created or repaired on this workbench.

In order to install mechanical devices on a DIY workbench, you need to connect an electrical line to it. If the room is large, it is worth making its frame on rollers, with the help of which the entire structure can be moved where necessary.

DIY metal workbench

The design of such a workbench must have a rigid frame welded from pipes. It is better to take them not round, but square. It is also worth choosing a material for the lid; it should be massive. After all, only good materials will provide the necessary structural rigidity to withstand heavy loads during operation. Upholstered with sheet steel, textolite, or linoleum is also suitable for the tabletop. If you need to do work on a workbench that involves hitting with a hammer or sledgehammer, then the tabletop is made of sheet metal approximately 5 mm thick. On such a powerful structure, you can install the same vice, which will hold securely on this tabletop.

When designing a metal workbench, constructed with your own hands from metal, it is worth strengthening the structure with numerous stiffening ribs. They will allow the tabletop and frame to withstand impacts. In addition, the workbench will be heavier, which is also good when bending metal, because it will be very difficult to move it if it is not secured. Naturally, such a model is not collapsible, because it is too heavy for transportation. This method is often used to make a DIY workbench for the garage, because it can withstand any work.

Under the tabletop there are drawers for spare parts and tools. In addition, on three sides they often create a barrier of metal mesh or ordinary sheet steel. It will not allow pieces of metal to fly apart (when chopping).

Making a workbench

First, you need to decide how the workbench will be used. If steel objects will be manufactured or repaired on it, it is necessary to make metal carcass. When you only have to work with wood, you can make a carpentry workbench.

Workbench location

To craft in comfortable conditions, you need to carefully choose a place in the room. It is advisable that the outlet be close, and the lighting can be installed from several sides. All these nuances should be especially carefully considered if a DIY workbench is installed in a garage or any other small room.

Making a metal workbench

To accomplish what we planned, we will need:

• corners;
• metal profile;
• dried and impregnated boards;
• welding machine.

In addition, you need to acquire stainless steel or galvanized sheets. If necessary, protective sides will be created from them, so that when cutting, its pieces do not fly apart. In addition, such sheets can be used to cover the tabletop so that its surface is perfectly smooth.

It is necessary to cut the metal parts of the frame to size, and then weld them, strictly maintaining all angles. This is necessary so that the DIY workbench, the drawings of which are presented here, is stable. That is, having created a frame, as presented above, you can then add how many boxes, sides and everything that a particular master needs for his specific work is needed. After all, it is impossible to imagine a design that would be universal, but a single base will make it easy to add various individual design delights of any professional or amateur.

If additional shelves are not needed, then you can strengthen the frame with stiffeners. Their most advantageous place is ten centimeters from the floor, and just as much below the tabletop or workbench lid. It should also be strengthened so that it does not deform under heavy loads from blows from a sledgehammer or hammer. In order to be able to attach the workbench to the floor, for its reliable fastening, you need to weld special plates to the ends of the legs. They are part of a square pipe measuring 5 x 5 or 10 x 10 cm, depending on the material found and the thickness of the legs themselves. Holes are made in them in the part that will come into contact with the floor. Then they are welded to the legs of the finished product and the workbench is secured through them. This way it will hold firmly and will not move during operation.

When the main frame is ready, the tabletop structure is made. To make it, you need corners from which you need to assemble a lid, whose length will be 10-15 cm longer (on the sides) of the main frame. This is necessary in order to then secure the vice at any necessary point on the workbench. Screens can also be easily welded here to prevent pieces of metal from flying out during cutting.

If you are creating a metal workbench with your own hands, the dimensions indicated in the drawing will suit most craftsmen. However, depending on the room where the structure is planned to be installed, they may vary. Therefore, it is worth repeating the image exactly only if there is sufficient space to install such a workbench.

Holes are drilled in the fixed tabletop to secure the boards. They should first be coated with an anti-rotting compound or painted. After this, the boards are sheathed sheet metal, which will give a smooth surface without cracks. It is secured using self-tapping screws.

To ensure that the workbench lasts a long time and does not rust, it is painted. To do this, it is better to use durable paint, which is used in the automotive industry. After all, this coating must withstand enormous loads.

Workbench vice

To make it convenient to work on a part or object, they need to be well secured on the workbench. To do this, use a vice, which is installed on a manufactured bench with your own hands (photos are presented in the article). There are several types: hand-held, chair-type or those with parallel jaws. When developing a project, you should immediately decide on the type of vice for which you will purposefully prepare a place on the surface.

Chair vice

They are called that because the surface to which they are attached resembles a chair. Over time, they began to be installed on workbenches. Such a vice is used for heavy work when chopping or riveting metal.

Parallel jaw vice

There are three types of them, in which the front lip can move freely, as well as those that can rotate and not. To make them last longer, additional linings with a corrugated surface are installed at the clamping points. They are secured with screws, and the dimensions of such overhead jaws can be from 80 to 140 mm.

A fixed vice has a one-piece jaw and a base with holes for bolts. Thanks to them, the entire structure can be firmly attached to the surface. You should always choose models only with removable jaws. After all, when they wear out, they will need to be replaced during operation. The jaws must be made of tool steel and also have notches, thanks to which the part is securely fastened. If their surface is smooth, then the object may jump out, which can damage it, and it is also inconvenient.

Universal vice

Their purpose is to fix small items. They are secured to a workbench or other surface with bolts. Their advantage is that they can not only be rotated, but also tilted in any plane. Their disadvantage is that the design is weak to impacts due to the many moving parts. Therefore, it is undesirable to use them where dead fixation is necessary, because they will not be able to fully provide it. However, they are ideal where during work you will need to rotate the workpiece at different angles. They are more often used on

The vise jaws themselves are made of hard steel to ensure reliable fixation subject. However, to ensure that the surface of the part is not damaged during operation, special lip caps are installed. Their metal is softer, which prevents damage to the part when exposed to it.

Every home craftsman can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands. This work takes a lot of time, but the benefits from a well-equipped workplace outweigh both labor costs and investments in building materials. In this article you will find complete information on the independent construction of workbenches for carpentry work.

Carpentry workbench – workplace optimization

Convenient working surface will be useful to any master. And the carpenter needs an equipped work area more than other specialists. After all, he will have to tinker with large-sized workpieces, the length of which reaches 3 meters, and in this case he cannot do without a well-designed work area. Even a simplified folding workbench allows you to process timber or boards and assemble products from the resulting blanks. A large table top with stops makes it possible to fix the lumber in any position, processing not only the surfaces, but also the edges of the timber or board. A special vice will help secure workpieces during sawing, drilling or connecting several elements.

In addition, in the drawers and shelves of the workbench you can store parts of future products, tools and all sorts of household items. Moreover, not only a wooden carpentry version, but also a metal workbench assembled on the basis of steel corners can be turned into convenient storage. At the same time, a craftsman who is not too familiar with construction can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands, organizing and optimizing the space in the workroom. For this you will need general drawings or understanding the workbench structure, Construction Materials and step-by-step instructions for assembly. You will find all this below in the text.

Types and design of workbenches for carpenters

In modern carpentry Only three workbench design schemes are used. Firstly, the mobile option is a portable structure that can even be installed on a balcony. This model will also be useful for those craftsmen who want to get a universal workbench for metalwork and carpentry work. The main advantage of this option is small sizes, the main disadvantage is the small storage area. You can’t put all the tools in such a table.

Secondly, a stationary workbench is an option for a full-fledged workshop. This model requires a spacious room to accommodate, but it will also fit into a large garage. This workbench can be either wooden or steel - it is possible to assemble any structure, because there is no need to move it. The main advantage of the model is its wide functionality, coupled with ample storage space. The main disadvantage is the dimensions and the need for large volume building materials.

Thirdly, modular design - workbenches of this type occupy an intermediate position between stationary and mobile options. The model structure allows you to extend and shorten the carpentry table, legs and other elements. Therefore the main advantage this option– a combination of optimal dimensions and functionality. And the main disadvantage is the complicated design. Building a modular metal workbench with your own hands is not so easy, and you may have problems with wood.

As a result, the optimal model for self-construction should be recognized precisely stationary option, since mobile does not provide all the benefits and modular is too difficult during assembly. Moreover, regardless of belonging to one of the varieties, any workbench contains the following structural elements:

• Support (bed, frame) - a system of vertical and horizontal beams that hold the tabletop, workpieces and tools.
• Working surface (tabletop) - in the language of professionals, this element is called a workbench board. All the necessary grooves and recesses for stops are made in it, which are useful for fixing the workpieces being processed. Therefore, such a board must be massive and reliable.
• The front vise and box are essentially huge clamping blocks that compete with clamps. They fix the workpieces at an angle to the plane of the work table, pressing them against the side edges of the table top. Moreover, a folding workbench has only one vice, while a stationary one has at least a couple of clamping blocks.
• Shelves are storage places that are located under the countertop.

And all these parts, with the exception of some metal clamping block parts (screws and nuts), are assembled from wood, which simplifies the selection of structural materials for building a workbench.

What materials are needed for assembly - getting ready for work

You can build a carpentry or plumbing workbench with your own hands only if you get the following materials:

• Plywood sheet with a thickness of 18-20 millimeters and total dimensions of 2.5 × 1.25 meters. Moreover, try to choose a perfectly flat sheet, without bubbles or dips on the surface - it will go on the countertop.
• Beam 10×10 and 6×6 centimeters. The frame will be assembled from these elements, therefore, we need about 4 meters of “ten” (for the legs and crossbars) and at least three meters of “six” (for the strengthening elements). At the same time, try to choose timber without knots and cracks.
• Boards 2 meters long - they will come in handy when assembling the tabletop. And upon completion of them you can.

In addition, we will need the following tools: a drill with feather and conventional drills, a circular saw(disk), clamps, glue Moment(for wood), square, level, bolts with nuts and furniture screws with corrosion protection. After all these materials and tools have been purchased and taken to the place of placement and assembly, you can build a workbench out of wood with your own hands, based on our step-by-step instructions.

DIY assembly - step-by-step instructions

Before you do it, try to read these instructions from beginning to end, going over in your head all the assembly steps described below. If you understand the entire procedure, then self-production workbench will take up a minimum of your personal time. Moreover, our step-by-step instructions are designed for people with minimal experience in carpentry. Well, the assembly process itself looks like this.

At the first stage we assemble the table. For this plywood sheet shorten to 1.52 meters circular saw and divide into two parts. As a result, two blanks with dimensions of 1.52 × 0.61 meters remain in the hands of the master. They will serve as the basis for the countertop. And the remaining part 0.98 × 1.25 will be useful to us in the future. The next stage is gluing the solid workbench table from two plywood blanks. To do this, you need to lubricate their surfaces with glue and, folding the plywood boards, tighten them with clamps, and you can put a 30-kilogram weight on the central part. Moreover, three 1.5-meter boards need to be placed under the clamps, ensuring a tight fit when placed along the long edge of the sheet.

In addition, you need to take into account the fact that when gluing, the plywood sheets must be connected with their convex sides (when overlapping each other), otherwise the entire array will unfold into an arc, which is undesirable. Next we move on to strengthening the 36mm laminated wood. To do this, we need to cut strips 15 centimeters wide from the remains of the plywood panel and glue them around the perimeter, with reverse side countertops. The result should be a table 54 millimeters thick, consisting of three 18 mm layers of plywood. Moreover, the amplifier strips will play the role of stiffeners.

After this, we cut the array to dimensions of 1.5 × 0.6 meters. This step will allow you to trim the ends, eliminating overlays and protrusions that formed during the assembly of the tabletop from three layers of plywood. The trimming itself is carried out with a circular saw at low tool feed. The circular saw must be moved very slowly along the plywood, otherwise you will get torn edges. The next stage is the assembly of the vertical elements of the frame. To do this, we saw a 10×10 centimeter beam into four 0.9 meter long sections. We get vertical supports. And as the legs (the lower tie between the vertical beams) and the drawer (the upper tie) we will use a 6x6 centimeter beam, cutting out the corresponding grooves in the legs. The places where the legs and drawers are attached should be coated with glue and reinforced with bolts or self-tapping screws.

Next, we must install vertical supports at the location of the workbench and assemble the entire frame, tightening them with horizontal longitudinal ties. They can be made from 6x6 cm timber, secured in a tenon or overlap, with bolts or self-tapping screws.

We will lay shelves made of 1.5-meter boards on the lower screeds, and a tabletop on the upper ones. Therefore, before attaching the ties, we must trace the vertical and horizontal of the assembled frame. Otherwise, the table will be tilted. The tabletop is fastened to the frame using 8-mm self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be recessed into holes drilled with a feather drill. Before fastening, the table is pulled to the upper longitudinal ties and drawers with clamps.

This completes the assembly of the table, and we can move on to installing the vice. Moreover, not everyone can make a carpenter's vice for a workbench with their own hands. Therefore, we suggest that beginners pay attention to ready-made models, the installation of which occurs in the following sequence: we screw the fixed jaw of the vice to the end of the table, and fasten the threaded element to it. We pass two threaded guides through the holes in the movable jaw and screw them into the fixed jaw. We insert handles into the heads of the guides, by rotating them you can move the moving part of the vice towards the stationary one.

After completing the installation stage of the vice, you can use the workbench at your discretion. Moreover, round or rectangular holes for stops can be cut in the tabletop as needed, placing them as you see fit.