Daffodils - planting in autumn. How to plant daffodils in the fall

In spring, daffodils are among the first to bloom. Their exquisite beauty adorns the site. Plants are ideal for those who are short on time. However, there are also secrets to reproduction. Therefore, it is important to learn how to plant daffodils in the fall so that they take root well and bloom luxuriantly.

Early flowering allows you to create interesting compositions, which complement well evergreens. Bulbous plants look beautiful on alpine roller coaster, decorate the garden and vegetable garden. These flowers have various shades white and yellow color. An additional advantage is the ability to decorate a garden with large trees, since this plant blooms well in the shade.

Optimal planting dates

The question often arises: when to plant daffodils? It is necessary to take into account the region, the height of groundwater, and the availability of planting material. Transplanting daffodils in the fall allows you to save precious spring time and promotes good rooting.

Landowners choose the timing of planting daffodils depending on their plans. But it should be taken into account that when planting in spring, the first flowering will occur only after a year. A autumn breeding guarantees that after six months the plant will delight gardeners. Optimal temperature regime rooting from 8 to 10 °C throughout three weeks, in this case the plant will calmly endure the winter.

Proper soil preparation

In order for the bulb to take root well, it is important to properly prepare the area.

• The selected place is freed from weeds.
• It is necessary to dig up the soil two months before the planting date to a depth of at least 40 cm.
• In areas with high level groundwater, it is necessary to plant daffodils with a soil drainage device.

To improve rooting and growth, add the following to the soil for every 1 m2:

• rotted compost or humus about 7–10 kg;
• superphosphate - about 50 g;
• potassium sulfate – no more than 35 g;
• bone meal – 70 g.

Such fertilizer promotes not only rooting, but also further growth.

Advice! “You should not use fresh manure, as the sprout may “burn.” On acidic soils liming is necessary."

Landing sequence

Planting daffodils in the ground in the fall has its own characteristics. It is necessary to adhere to certain conditions: choose a good planting material, without rot and fungus, mechanical damage. There are two options for preparing planting material: prepare the bulbs yourself or purchase them and store them in a well-ventilated, dark room (more on this below).

On the prepared area, a scheme for planting bulbs is marked. Dig holes with a depth of 17 to 7 cm, depending on the size of the children. Add sand, about 3 cm into the hole, and place the onion with the root rosette down. Sprinkle with soil, press it down a little, and water. As soon as moisture saturates the soil, sprinkle with humus. This method will protect the soil from water evaporation and add nutrients for the flower.

In the middle zone, the planting scheme depends on the wishes of the gardener and the variety. From low-growing flowers they create a continuous carpet covering with a distance of 10 cm from each other. But in this case it is necessary a large number of kids. For convenience, bouquets are grown closer to home, in greenhouses and greenhouses.

One specimen should be planted in containers and combined with plants different periods flowering. The planting depth varies depending on the variety and size from 7–8 cm to 15. It is also important to take into account the structure of the soil: humus is added to heavy soil or shallower planting is organized.

In the Northern regions with low temperatures in winter and long spring can be planted in a pot and placed in warm veranda, thereby pleasing yourself even at a time when there is snow outside the window. Green leaves germinate within 2–3 weeks after planting.

Rules of care

It is not enough to plant daffodils correctly; it is important to prepare the seedlings for winter. If planting was carried out in Siberia or the Urals, then protection from freezing will be needed.

The shelter can be:

• peat;
• spruce branches or needles;
• oak foliage;
• sawdust or shavings;
• non-woven material(agrofibre, lutrasil).

The insulation method is simple, so that the planting material does not die, non-woven material is laid in 3-4 layers, natural material - up to 10 cm, and snow is thrown on top. This approach guarantees high survival rate of the bulbs. In spring they quickly germinate, bloom profusely and decorate the garden.

Rational watering

Watering should be carried out regularly; the soil should not be allowed to dry out or become waterlogged, as this will lead to the death of the crop.

Top dressing

Without fertilizing it is difficult to achieve abundant flowering and proper development plants.

• During the period after the snow melts, the complex is introduced mineral fertilizers: superphosphate – 15 g + potassium – no more than 15 g + nitrogen – 30 g. During this period, there is enough water in the soil, so fertilizers are applied dry between plants.
• The next feeding is necessary during the budding period, which enhances flowering. To do this, a section of the garden with flowers is watered with mullein extract in a ratio of 1:30. Add superphosphate (15 g) and any potash fertilizers chlorine-free 15 g, for example, ash.
• The next feeding is timed to coincide with flowering. It promotes the ripening of the bulb. A substance consisting of superphosphate is prepared - 25–30 g + 10 l. water.

How to replant

Daffodils differ from tulips and other bulbous plants; they can not only grow in one place for many years, but also, with the right agricultural practices, grow and cover large areas. Therefore, there is no need to replant annually. Do not use damaged planting material: cut, with places of rot, or withered root areas.

Ways to preserve bulbs until spring

Whatever period is chosen, the quality of the bulbs depends on the storage method. Eat general rules: after digging, it is necessary to sort through the material, discard the cut ones that are too small. The air temperature should not exceed +18 degrees, but before planting the temperature must be reduced to 14 °C. Do not pack tightly in polyethylene, since the bulb may rot; it is more rational to place it in clean wooden boxes or baskets. But be sure to treat it with a fungicide solution before planting.

After digging, you need to plant daffodils in a short time. It is difficult to keep babies at home for a long time. Narcissus is a life-loving plant and quickly takes root. Therefore, in the middle zone, Leningrad region, where there is often a rainy summer, there is practically no dormant period for the bulbs. Preserving planting material until autumn is possible only with good ventilation in a dry room, but not in the sun, otherwise they will germinate or dry out.

Advice! " The best option for drying there are trays on which the planting material is laid out, having previously been treated with ash.”

It is advisable to store the bulbs in cotton or linen bags, sorted by size and variety. Temperature within 17–18 degrees, humidity not higher than 75%.

Types of reproduction

There are several types of reproduction. The first is regularly digging up the plant and using the emerging children. The second is the cultivation of continuous “carpet” ridges or decorative flower beds without regular digging. For these purposes, in August it is necessary to create conditions for better growth:

• dig up the area adjacent to the plants well;
• create drainage if there is a high level of groundwater in the area;
• fertilize.

In the northern regions, in September, prepare covering material, insulate plantings and prepared soil. In this case, you can save yourself from additional work on digging, storing and planting. Experts propagate plants by seed, however, this method is quite complicated and flowering occurs only in the 6th year.

Pests and diseases

Gardeners must protect plantings from diseases. Plants suffer from sclerotinia, fusarium, mosaic disease. The flower nest is subject to bacterial or penicillium rot.

To prevent the bulbous plants from dying, you need to treat “ Copper sulfate"(dose 100 g per 10-liter container) or the product "Hom" (no more than 40 g per 10 l.). Treatment in spring 2 l. per 10 m² flower garden. To get rid of root mites before flowering and budding, spray with Fimoverm at the rate of 1 liter. drug per 10 m². This affects development, flowering and will help avoid fungal formations.

Care after flowering

Since the plants are unpretentious, they are suitable for cold regions, the Leningrad region, including the Moscow region, planting daffodils in the ground in the fall gives almost 100% germination if used correct agricultural technology, protection and nutrition of plants. If you need to quickly grow daffodils, planting and caring for open ground, using the methods described above, guarantee good survival of the bulbs, abundant flowering in the spring.

And the frost is not terrible!

Tulips are perhaps the most resilient bulbs you can think of. There is only one thing they cannot stand - getting soaked. And this is not surprising, considering that even luxurious Dutch varieties continue to preserve the memory of their distant homeland - the steppes, deserts and mountains. And there there are often severe frosts without snow, unstable weather, winds, and drought. But there is plenty of sun! Based on this, you need to choose a place to plant them - it can be ventilated, with poor rocky soil, but always well lit.

By the way, if you happen to get tulip bulbs that are not too dry in October, November, and even January, take them. They can be planted at any time, as long as the soil can still be shoveled. Or, if the snow has already fallen, you can simply rake it to the ground, lay out the bulbs and sprinkle with any earthen mixture (though you will have to bring it with you). The layer of soil can be quite small - there are many known cases when dug up tulips, thrown on a garden bed or path, successfully overwintered “naked”.

True, there is one thing. Such “extreme” actions are good when saving plants and preserving the variety is more important than getting perfect flowering in the coming spring. For purely decorative purposes, purchase bulbs selected by size and plant them exactly on time.

Daffodils

More tenderly, even more tenderly!

Despite the fact that daffodils are usually mentioned “paired” with tulips, their requirements for living conditions are very different. The best place for them - a not too dry flower garden with fertile soil and a thick layer organic mulch. Almost like being at the edge of a forest. Daffodils, and especially newly purchased ones (that is, grown in mild climates and high doses of fertilizers), do not tolerate severe frosts. In addition, bulbs prepared for forcing are often on sale, that is, they have already undergone a cooling period. If you plant them too early, they may wake up and start growing in the fall or early winter when the weather warms up. And even release buds, which, of course, will then freeze. The bulbs will survive, but oh spring bloom will have to forget.

Therefore, it is better not to experiment with violating the rules for planting daffodils. You shouldn't plant them much earlier or later. optimal time. And if you get the bulbs later than usual, then plant them deeper and mulch them properly with peat, half-rotted compost or fallen leaves.

All of the above applies to purchased planting material. Those daffodils that have been growing in your garden for a long time and that you dug up and divided yourself “forgive” much more mistakes. To be honest, I usually plant them almost immediately after digging, as soon as I prepare a new place.

Crocuses, scillas, chionodoxes, muscari, galanthus

Guard, they're running away!

With this small-onion “brethren” everything is simple. We bought it and planted it. No troubles either early or too early late boarding My colleagues and I haven’t noticed them for many years - they bloomed as usual in the spring. More often, problems arise with the quality of planting material - after all, it is more difficult to preserve small bulbs in a store than large ones.

It is better to choose a place in such a way as not to disturb the plantings for several years. And then, probably, you will not be able to completely get rid of the “scattered” plants - this is also worth taking into account. Crocuses, chionodoxes and muscari love open sunny places, scillas and galanthus are rather forest dwellers.

The planting depth for the vast majority of bulbous plants is “three diameters”. That is, if the bulb has a diameter of 3 cm, the depth of the planting hole should be 9–10 cm. It would be a good idea to go deeper another centimeter or two and pour a little sand, preferably coarse-grained, into the bottom of the hole. The roots will easily penetrate this layer, and the bottom - the most vulnerable part of the bulb - will have less chance of rotting.

Corydalis, hazel grouse, spring flowers, kandyks

You can’t dry it, you can’t wet it!

Strictly speaking, the above crops are also small-bulbous (except that the imperial hazel grouse cannot be called such). But from the point of view of storage and planting, they are noticeably different in that their bulbs do not have dense covering scales and very quickly lose moisture. This leads to two important conclusions for us. Firstly, purchasing high-quality planting material is not so easy. Carefully study what is in the beautiful bags. Look and feel, so as not to accidentally buy dried “remains”. Secondly, it is better to store these bulbs before planting in a moist environment (moistened with water and squeezed out peat, sphagnum moss or sawdust), and plant them as soon as possible after purchase. The place is chosen depending on the species: kandyki and corydalis like partial shade, spring fronds and most hazel grouse prefer the sun.

A separate conversation about the imperial hazel grouse. Its large, sometimes fist-sized bulbs do not dry out as quickly as small ones. In addition, they are perfectly adapted and even need summer drought and elevated air and ground temperatures. They also store well, so buy quality material- not a problem (oh, if only varietal hazel grouse were on sale more often!). They are planted immediately after purchase to a depth of 15-30 cm, depending on the size. If you, as expected, are going to dig up and warm the bulbs in the summer, plant the hazel grouse in a semi-shaded flower garden with rich soil - there they will be larger and more luxurious. If you don’t feel like digging every year, but you are willing to put up with imperfect flowering, plant them in full sun - where the ground warms up well in the summer. And of course, no soaking!

Which is correct?
Culture	Optimal timing for planting bulbs *	How to dig and replant
Tulips	from September 20 to October 5 (if autumn is warm - 1st ten days of October)	The bulbs are dug up annually in June after the leaves turn yellow and stored in a warm, dry place until planting.
Daffodils	1st half of September	overgrown clumps are divided as needed - once every 4-5 years
Crocuses, scillas, chionodoxes, muscari, galanthus	end of August, but it is quite acceptable to plant before the beginning of October or even later	planted once every 4-5 years or less often - only if the plantings become too thick
Corydalis, hazel grouse, spring flowers, kandyks	end of August - end of September	divide and plant once every 4-5 years. It is better to plant immediately after digging
Grouse imperial	end of August - mid September	dug up annually in June, store in a warm place until planting
*Deadlines for middle zone Russia

Scillas, etc.) deserves the highest praise. And the original shape of the flower fits perfectly with any “neighbors” on the site: it adds charm to evergreen plantings and rocky compositions and is not at all lost against the background of other flowers. Beginning gardeners are usually attracted to daffodils by the fact that these flowers do not require annual digging/planting (like, for example, hyacinths or tulips) and can be grown in one place for up to 5-6 years without loss of decorative value. However, it must be clarified that the timing of future transplantation of daffodils, as well as their healthy development and flowering, generally depend on how correctly and on time they were initially planted on the site.

Most significant biological feature Narcissus can be called the absence of the dormant period characteristic of many ephemeroids. Its bulb begins to grow new roots already 3 - 4 weeks after the leaves die off (from the second half of August), so it is optimal to plan planting, if not at this time, then at least in early autumn. It is in the fall that this plant experiences the most intense root growth and consumption. nutrients from the soil, and when planted in the spring, the narcissus for rooting (less active) consumes the previously accumulated nutrients, which are no longer sufficient for flowering. Please note: after this spring planting the plant usually blooms after a year, but if a narcissus bulb purchased at the wrong time (in winter) is planted in a pot and then stored glassed balcony or loggia, and in the spring carefully transfer it to open ground, it will bloom this year.

Since daffodils are the least demanding bulbs in terms of light, for planting them you can select not only sunny places, but also areas in diffuse partial shade fruit trees, shrubs and low conifers, where they will be illuminated by the sun for at least half a day. This circumstance is especially recommended to be taken into account when choosing a place for varieties prone to fading with orange and pink crowns. Daffodils are not too categorical about the “flooding” from which all ephemeroids suffer - in the presence of drainage or drainage grooves, they grow successfully even in lowlands, but they still bloom more actively on gentle slopes protected from the wind with a low (below 60 cm) ground level water When choosing a landing site, it is also advisable to pay attention to varietal characteristics and preferences of narcissists. To create monochromatic spots of color in informal gardens, it is better to use early-blooming, most shade-tolerant and naturalizable jonquill and taceta daffodils, and when planting in areas prone to temporary flooding, late-blooming, disease-resistant, poetic ones. More “cultivated” ones, having an unusually original color or flower shape (tubular, small- and large-crowned, double), are best placed in a prominent place - in rock gardens and flower beds, in combination with spring-flowering perennials and ground covers (hellebore, lungwort, aubrieta, primrose ) or other bulbous plants (crocuses, tulips).

When distributing plantings of daffodils, it is necessary to take into account that they will grow in one place for at least 3 - 4 years without transplanting, so it is better not to plant them in close proximity to hyacinths and varietal tulips that are subject to annual digging. There is also no need to assign them exclusively to separate beds: the bulbs of these plants contain plant poisons that repel pests, so they can create unique barriers to protect tulips, lilies and other plants that are attacked by mice. Fading foliage in common flower beds can be promptly hidden with the help of rapidly growing, brightly flowering annuals and biennials (Phlox Drummond, pansies etc.).

Despite the fact that the narcissus has a reputation for being an unpretentious plant in terms of soil composition, it almost constantly needs sufficient nutrition. The fact is that every year in the bulb of this ephemeroid, two renewal buds of different ages are formed at once, one of which (larger) blooms the next year, and the second (by the time the leaves wither, it looks like a millimeter roller) - only two years later. At the same time, daughter bulbs can also develop in the axils of the storage scales, which completely complete development and separate after 3 - 4 years. If the narcissus receives enough nutrients during the growing season, the differentiation of “future generations” and their flowering takes place fully. With “modest” nutrition, the plant will bloom for the first time after planting due to the accumulated substances from the storage scales, but in the second year its flowering will weaken significantly (the flowers are crushed), and the bulb itself will be depleted. It is obvious that when growing narcissus in perennial culture Its development can be influenced with the help of agricultural technology two years before flowering, so the plant must be provided with nutritious soil even when planting.

Ideally, the soil for daffodils should be loamy and easily permeable, with an acidity pH of 6.5 - 7.0, so in heavy clay areas it would not hurt to organize drainage and add sand or peat (a bucket per square meter) as a leavening agent, and on sandy ones - clay for better retention of moisture and humus for enrichment. If the soil acidity on the site is below pH 6.0, liming shortly before planting can only be carried out dolomite flour or chalk (200 g per sq.m.), since slaked lime must be applied in advance (at least six months in advance), and ash at such acidity levels will clearly not be enough. In uncultivated areas, two to three months before planting daffodils (in June), the ground should be dug to a depth of 30-40 cm and fertilizers should be added - compost or humus (10 kg per sq.m. area), phosphate rock or bone meal (80 g per sq.m. .m), potassium sulfate and superphosphate (30 g and 50 g per sq.m). The area for daffodils can be fertilized with fresh manure only a year and a half before planting. Note: practical experience confirms that applying fertilizers before autumn planting has an even greater impact on the development of daffodils than subsequently regular feeding of plants during the growing season.

It is advisable to purchase daffodil planting material - dense, healthy bulbs - in the summer and store them in a ventilated, dark room at a temperature of 17 - 18 °C and relative humidity air about 70-75%, and a week before planting - at a temperature of 12 - 14 °C. It is strongly recommended that immediately after purchase, treat the bulbs with an insectoacaricide (Fozalon, Karbofos) to disinfect against mites and thrips, and with a fungicide (Maxim, TMTD) to prevent rot and fungal diseases. In no case should the bulbs be kept closed until autumn. plastic bags, otherwise they will die. It is advisable to use the largest (from 4 cm in diameter) specimens for decorating flower beds and forcing, and smaller ones (less than 3 cm in diameter and children) for propagation. It should be taken into account that the reproduction rate (formation daughter bulbs) y different groups may differ: tubular ones grow babies most actively, terry ones - a little worse, and large-crowned ones - in comparison with them - generally weakly. Therefore, by reducing/increasing the planting depth and the distance between plants, it is necessary to correctly “regulate” the speed of their reproduction.

The average planting depth, as a rule, is equal to three diameters - 10 - 15 cm for large bulbs, and 7 - 10 for small ones - although on sandy soils these figures should be increased by a couple of centimeters, and reduced on clay soils. Shallow planting can be used to stimulate early flowering and rapid reproduction, and deeper planting (necessarily with the organization of drainage) can be used to curb the rate of growth and late flowering. In this case, you also need to adjust the distance between the bulbs: the 10x10 cm scheme is ideal for creating a weakly growing neat “bouquet” of large bulbs in a flowerbed, but the formation of children will occur more actively in free row planting and in plantings according to the 15x15cm (20x20cm) scheme. Planting bulbs on different depths will simultaneously ensure an extension of the flowering period and the cultivation of a sufficient amount of new planting material.

Dates for autumn planting of daffodils for different regions It is recommended to install in accordance with weather conditions, since rooting of the bulbs best occurs within three to three and a half weeks at a soil temperature of 8 – 10 °C. In the north they are like this optimal conditions usually set already in August - September, and in the south - closer to October, although due to climate changes they may shift by a couple of weeks. When too early boarding daffodil bulbs end up in damp soil at elevated temperatures, which can provoke the formation of rot and disease, so it is not advisable to rush planting. It is better to plant them a little later, but cover the plantings with a thick layer (8 - 10 cm) of leaves, peat, straw or sawdust and spruce branches. In harsh climates, even with timely autumn planting, when the soil begins to freeze, it is recommended to cover all daffodils for the winter, and in milder climates, only those that winter poorly (double, taceta-shaped, jonquil-shaped) and planted in the lungs sandy soils. Please note: in snowless, frosty winters, it is advisable to additionally cover the plantings with non-woven covering material (lutrasil or spunbond), but in no case use plastic film instead.

Since daffodils are quite hardy, violation of the rules for planting them usually very rarely leads to the death of the bulbs. However, excessive deepening, thickening, insufficient soil enrichment and lack of winter shelter sometimes cause long-term non-flowering of these bulbous plants. Therefore, if you want to grow daffodils not only for reproduction, try to create them minimum required conditions even during landing and ensure proper care, and then you won’t have to be disappointed in their “vaunted unpretentiousness.”

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How to prepare the soil for planting bulbous flowers in the ground
Daffodils planting and care begins with the right choice growing area. A place for planting bulbous flowers in the garden should be sunny, horizontal or with a slight slope to the south, well-drained. Groundwater should lie at a depth of no higher than 60 cm, the subsoil layer should easily allow water to pass through. The soil should be well fertilized, fertile, light or medium loamy with a neutral reaction.

Planting and caring for daffodils in open ground involves fertilizing the soil and applying fertilizers.

To improve the soil in the garden bed for planting daffodils, add the following to the soil:

• 200 - 300 g of lime;
• 25 - 30 kg of humus or well-rotted compost;
• up to 100 grams bone meal or 50 g of double superphosphate per 1 sq. meter;
  Bulbous flowers require deep tillage of the soil, so after adding lime and organic fertilizers, dig the area to a depth of 35 - 40 cm. It will be even better if planting daffodils in the fall is accompanied by double digging.

Areas with a cultivated layer less than 25 years old for bulbous flowers in the garden have to be prepared for several years. Preparation of heavy work requires especially a lot of work clay soil. Dig up all thin layers every year with a depth of about 5 cm, first add lime and organic fertilizers- peat and humus; sand can also be added to the clayey one. Also use double digging.

A radical improvement of the soil for growing daffodils can be achieved by adding organic matter for several years to a quarter of the depth of the cultivated soil layer, provided that it is deepened to 40 cm. It is important to mix the applied fertilizers well with the entire layer.

Planting daffodils in the ground in autumn
Flowerbed under autumn planting Daffodils and tulips need to be prepared in advance and kept fallow, preventing weeds from developing, or occupied with annual flowers or vegetables with a short development period, with the exception of onions.

By mid-August, areas where it is planned to plant tulips and daffodils in the fall should be cleared. Do not lose sight of the fact that bulbous bulbs can be planted in their original place no earlier than after 5 years, and then provided that there are no pests and the most harmful diseases.

The predecessors of bulbous plants can be any crops except bulbous plants themselves, corms and plants from the nightshade family.

Before planting daffodils in the fall in the ground, spread mineral fertilizers over the surface:

• ammonium nitrate 15 g;
• double superphosphate 25 g;
• potassium sulfate 40 g;
• wood ash - 200 - 300 g/sq. m.
• Then dig the soil to a depth of 20 - 22 cm.

When to plant daffodils in the fall
When to plant daffodils - daffodils need to be planted and replanted from the end of August to the second ten days of September. This best period when to replant daffodils in the garden.

With good soil preparation, careful care and the absence of pests and diseases, daffodils can grow in one place, without digging, for 3 - 4 years and even up to 5 years. Their dormant period lasts less than that of tulips and hyacinths. Plant them until new roots appear. When planting, young roots can be damaged, and new roots do not form in daffodil bulbs.

Poor rooting can lead to bulbs freezing in winter. Daffodil sprouts that appear in spring are less afraid of frost than tulip sprouts. Therefore, the time when to plant daffodils is a very important parameter.

Plant daffodils belonging to the Poetic group before others. Before planting, inspect all the bulbs; for the last time, discard those that are soft to the touch, have holes near the bottom, are darkened or damaged. Use only healthy bulbs, free from blemishes. Before planting, pickle them in the Maxim solution for 30 minutes, let the solution drain and then dip them in a 0.7% solution of karbofos (10% preparation) also for 30 minutes. Dried bulbs - plant.

It is necessary to transplant daffodils to the correct depth. The planting depth (location of the bottom of the bulb) for large daffodil bulbs is 15 cm, on heavy soils - 12 cm. Sprinkle a 3 cm layer of sand under the bulbs, and fill them with sand to the top, with soil on top.

The planting depth must be maintained very strictly. This can be done using a marker peg. Properly planted bulbs bloom better, are less affected by pests and diseases, plants reproduce faster, and growing daffodils is excellent. Plant small bulbs and children smaller; their planting depth is from 7 to 10 cm, depending on the size. The distance between large bulbs and children is from 8 to 10 cm.

Daffodils - when to dig up bulbs and plant
It is necessary to dig up daffodil bulbs immediately after lodging and yellowing of the leaves. All dug up bulbs should be inspected. Reject and burn those affected by pests and diseases, and soft ones - even if they look good.

High-quality daffodil bulbs are washed in running water, then treated for 15 minutes in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate against diseases and pests. Dry in the shade.

Before planting, you can store daffodil bulbs in plastic, well-ventilated mesh boxes (laying the bulbs in a single layer, by variety) in a shed.